Thanks all for the words of advice! I'm going to be a wreck until Sunday when
I can get there to try to resolve this situation.
So here's how I managed to do this:
I was attempting to winterize the engine, boat still in the water. First I
just ran the engine normally for a while, maybe 30-45
Isn't another "easy" way to turn over the engine repeatedly before starting
with the seasick open? I have been told to shut the sea cock after one or two
failed starting attempts (beginning of season / cold weather) and only re-open
when the engine is running.
Presumably this would be the sam
Dave,
I wouldn't lose a lot of sleep. I hydrolocked my Universal Diesel a
few years ago (no anti-siphon loop in the exhaust plumbing). Tried to
start it but it wouldn't turn over. Like you, I thought it had a dead
battery so a added 4 more house batteries. Starter got hot, but didn't
turn
David,
this is exactly how I managed mine – I primed the hose until one of the
cylinders was full (;-).
I can tell you that your impeller is dead (this is why you needed to prime or
why the AF kept coming down the hose).
Marek
From: David Pulaski via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015
I also run the engine once the water was out of cylinders, but I am not sure if
this is a good idea. The oil got very nicely mixed with water (completely grey,
evenly mixed emulsion). It was difficult to pump that mess out. Honestly, I
don’t know what is better: mix the water with oil and pump i
Hi David,
Well, I guess you can forget about warming up under load when you get
'er running. I didn't think about that weird ritual, hauling boats
from the water, that you guys, who are beyond Hope, do each year.
For me, anything an hour & a half east of Vancouver is beyond Hope :)
https://w
When I had my engine hydrolocked, I was on the hard, so this was not the issue.
However, I don’t imagine that you can pump much water when you turn the engine
by hand.
One thing that nobody mention yet (and it should be done) – remove at least
some water from the exhaust side of your engine. If
as I mentioned before, I suggest two oil changes. I still found water in the
oil after the first one. Not much, but you don’t want any, especially if you
are laying it over for the winter.
Marek
From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 1:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Marek,
I agree. You should check the oil before starting the engine. If
there is evidence of water in the oil, you should change it first before
starting the engine and then again after running it for a while.
Gary
~~~_/)~~
On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 8:58 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-
Yup, that was item #2 on my list of work activities.
An engine is a positive displacement air pump. It
will spit water out the exhaust once you start
rolling it over, as I'm sure you've noticed before.
Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
At 06:05 AM 22/10/2015, you wrote:
When I had
I had also read of SCS2000 being used as a structural adhesive for skyscraper
windows, and also I am pretty sure Lexan. So, As an experiment I glued two
pieces of Polycarbonate together with SCS2000, let it sit for a month, and
pulled them apart. Unfortunately, it didn’t take a whole lot of ef
Gary:
I sent you the process I used 'off list'.
The 2 forward windows on my boat are also curved.not exactly sure
how much but it is noticeable.you can get a better idea when you
take the old windows out and lay them on a flat surface. I used Sika 295
UV with the Sika primer and I als
I put 7 coats of Interprotect 2000E on the bottom 10 years ago and the
bottom is fine..don't apply a barrier coat immediately after
haulout..let the bottom dry for 6 months.
There are lots of boats at our club that have had the same thing done
with no problems. Like most jobs, if it'
VHB tape is Ideal for portlights.. It's regularly used to bond window
lenses on skyscrapers because of it's ability to seal the water out and
have to right amount of strenght / flex for structural glazing..
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Industries/Architechure/VHB/
When I replaced my portlights this spring I had planned to follow Don Casey's
article but ended up not using the VHB.
I have had good experience with VHB on a residential installation of steel
panels as a surround for a gas fireplace. The VHB is bonding mild steel to
painted drywall in this ca
Hi David,
I heard good things about dry ice and soda, Walnuts are supposed to be
good too. (Mine was done the old fashion way with an abrasive wheel. The
guy did a remarkable job, but you really have to know what you're doing to
avoid digging into the gelcoat)
As for barrier coating I was adv
Listers,
After ten years, the vinyl lettering on the Enterprise is starting to wear
down. Instead of spending big bucks getting new vinyl made, I was thinking of
peeling the stuff off and painting the name/graphics on. What type of paint do
you suggest I use? Brightside?
All the best,
Edd
My head is ready to explode!☺
One of you guru / experts ought to write a book on very subject!
On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 10:17 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Nice job, Derek.
>
> Let me add to your post.
>
> When I installed new ports in a 26 footer (non C&C) couple
Is it possible that it's the vang and not the gooseneck that's causing the
squeak?
--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
> On Oct 22, 2015, at 11:24, Harald Braun via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Hi, I have a 1985 35 MK 3 C&C and my boom was making this awful squecking,
> grinding noise, once t
or the outhaul? There is a 4:1 block system inside my boom.
Joel
35/3
Annapolis
On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 11:33 AM, Indigo via CnC-List wrote:
> Is it possible that it's the vang and not the gooseneck that's causing the
> squeak?
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
> > On Oct 2
I believe the vinyl letters will last much longer than paint. My vinyl
lettering has lasted nearly 30 years!
Bob
Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer
> On Oct 22, 2015, at 11:20 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Remove the old vinyl with a 3M stripe off wheel. Don't use a blade.
>
> Denni
Check the fasteners on the gooseneck/boom joint.
Dennis C.
On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 10:24 AM, Harald Braun via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hi, I have a 1985 35 MK 3 C&C and my boom was making this awful squecking,
> grinding noise, once the main was down. I lubed it and still no l
-list.com
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2015 11:33:43 -0400
From: Indigo
T
Speaking of vinyl letters, I believe there is a difference in quality and
service life of vinyl letters depending on suppliers.
The first decal I had on Touche' looked good for over ten years. I removed
it to repaint the topsides. I have also had several iterations of the
Touche' logo on the sid
I used a local sign company for mine and they have lasted nearly 30 years. I
wouldn't be surprised that bigger companies use thinner vinyl...
Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
"There is nothing
Hi, I have a 1985 35 MK 3 C&C and my boom was making this awful
squecking, grinding noise, once the main was down. I lubed it and still
no luck. Really annoying in an anchorage. Anybody has any suggestions?
Harald
Kitchener, On
___
Email address:
C
Dennis,
Talk to the sign company. Mine quoted a 3M film and gave UV spec,
thickness, and warranty period. Different products and product lines have
different longevity. My black letters were a 12 year guarantee but some
have failed in the first season.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
So
I used the Boat US graphics, worked great. On their website you just
enter the letters, fonts, colors, etc, and they mail you the entire name
on a plastic sheet. You peel off a protective cover, place the sheet on
the hull, press down, peel off the sheet and the letters are perfectly
placed.
I may be biased, living in the land of 3M here, but their vinyl and automotive
marking products are pretty hard to beat. I was also going to suggest checking
with the vinyl company to make sure you could get 3M marking products. The
name on my transom has lasted for twelve years now, and still
Edd,
You'll probably find that the vinyl will last longer than paint and be
easier to remove/replace.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 22, 2015 10:53 AM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"
wrote:
> Listers,
>
> After ten years, the vinyl lettering on the Enterprise is startin
Bob, how much was the cost for the dry ice blasting?
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland Or
On Oct 22, 2015 8:18 AM, "robert via CnC-List"
wrote:
> I had the bottom dry ice blasted.took about 5 hours.great job,
> little to know mess.shop vaced the old paint from the ground in 20
>
I have been cutting vinyl decals for over 10 years and have a few suggestions:
a- there are various thicknesses of vinyl from 2 to 4 mm (maybe thicker)
b- quality vinyl will stick for years – others will start to peel in a year
c- check the guarantee of color – some companies will guarantee no fad
Hi Harald,
You should check the gooseneck swivel in detail, particularly the 3
vertical holes.
Mine was shot and the vertical holes looked like bathtubs instead of round
holes.. it's 45 bucks well spent..
http://www.offshorespars.com/store/spar-parts/swivels/12-boom-swivel/
-Regards,
F
Hi Harald,
You should check the gooseneck swivel in detail, particularly the 3
vertical holes.
Mine was shot and the vertical holes looked like bathtubs instead of round
holes.. it's 45 bucks well spent..
http://www.offshorespars.com/store/spar-parts/swivels/12-boom-swivel/
-Regards,
F
A local sign maker made our lettering for ~$20. Looks great after many
seasons. Try someone outside of marine industry.
On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 10:33 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Edd,
>
> You'll probably find that the vinyl will last longer than paint and be
> ea
I had the bottom dry ice blasted.took about 5 hours.great job,
little to know mess.shop vaced the old paint from the ground in 20
minutes.
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2015-10-22 11:30 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List wrote:
Hi David,
I heard good things a
I’ve had the same problem, which prevented sleep in a rolly anchorage. A
simple solution was to sheet the boom fairly tight, then use a short length of
3/8 inch line to pull the end of the boom over toward one side, in my case, to
a jam cleat near the main jib sheet winch. This is part of my
Fred:
The contractor's normal price was $40 per foot of boat length.he
gave me a deal $20 per ft because he wanted to use me/my boat for
promotional purposes. Now that was the Spring of 2006
Unfortunately for him, it didn't work very well..I think he got two
power boat owners at th
Nice job, Derek.
Let me add to your post.
When I installed new ports in a 26 footer (non C&C) couple weeks ago I had
similar thoughts and concerns.
I dry fiitted ports in place and held them with tape. I then traced the
outline of the inside of ports on the protective film and removed film fro
I used BoatUS, this year, and I am pleased with the results. It was easy
working with them to get what I wanted.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
Speaking of vinyl letters, I believe there is a difference in quality and
service life of vinyl letters depending on supp
You can warm it up on the hard. I do it regularly before putting antifreeze
in. There are a few ways; I find this one the best:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKky09u1fGU
Of course, you need access to ample amount of fresh water (and a bucket).
Russ, I know the place. Been there a few times.
Remove the old vinyl with a 3M stripe off wheel. Don't use a blade.
Dennis C.
On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 9:52 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Listers,
>
> After ten years, the vinyl lettering on the Enterprise is starting to wear
> down. Instead of spending big buck
For the past 4 sailing seasons, I have used Micron 66the first 3
seasons/haulouts, the bottom was void of any marine growth, and no
slime.didn't even need a pressure wash.
This haulout (season #4), the bottom was infested with barnaclesnot
a few scattered around, a significant numb
Alan,
Did you send them a digital file or design it on their site?
Dennis C.
On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 1:21 PM, Alan Bergen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I used BoatUS, this year, and I am pleased with the results. It was easy
> working with them to get what I wanted.
>
> Alan Ber
Also used BoatUS. Did the website.
Basic black has held up well for 3+ years.
Joel
35/3
Annapolis
On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 3:22 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Alan,
>
> Did you send them a digital file or design it on their site?
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Thu, Oct 22, 2
Rob,
It isn't really clear, did you put a fresh coat on each spring or is this
four years use on the same application?
If it's the former, they may have changed the formula. If it's the latter
you probably just used up all the copper in the paint and it's time for a
fresh coat.
Rick Taillieu
Ne
Rick:
I bought 3 gallons of Micron 66 4 years agoshould be the same
formula.each Spring, I put a light coat of the 66 paint on the
bottomthe 3 gallons has now been consumed. And there is Micron CSC
under the 66. I saw a boat hauled yesterday with CSC paint that lies
about 200 f
___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
-- next part --
An
Rob,
I've used CSC since I moved out here from Ontario nine years ago,(wow, has
it been that long already) and I'm totally satisfied with the results.
I get some slime the last half of the season but it cleans off very easily
with a pressure washer.
I've put a full coat on every two years and do 6
Vinyl letters. websearch a provider. 10 reasons better than paint.
- Original Message -
From: "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Edd Schillay"
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 10:52:36 AM
Subject: Stus-List Painting Boat Name on Hull
Listers,
After ten
Rob,
Please copy me your method off list?
cscheaf...@comcast.net
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
- Original Message -
From: "robert via CnC-List"
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "robert"
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 9:51:01 AM
Subject: Stus-List
Robert,
The barnacle remains are called basal plates. If you are concerned about
over sanding
than take a look at Barnacle Buster. You spray it on, let it devolve the basal
plates, and wash it off.
This stuff is great, but you need to keep it wet.
Here are two links providing info. The f
Dave,
I'm surprised a few cups of antifreeze would get to the engine by the way you
describe. The point where the raw water shoots into the exhaust should be
angled to enter the exhaust and not the engine. Before it backs up into the
engine, your hose from cockpit to engine, raw water strainer,
Edd,
I find that Brightside doesn’t seem to keep its gloss that long. I use it on
the cove stripes and end up reapplying it every couple years. Interlux might
have a better choice.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 9:52
Hi Harald,
Mine will do that too if I allow. Normal practice on Sweet (with
rigid vang) is to set main halyard to boom end and adjust for desired
height, tension a utility line from boom end to a side fitting (toe
rail, footblock, etc.) and tension the mainsheet with traveller drawn
to opposi
Hi Edd,
A well regarded sign paint is called One Shot.
http://www.1shot.com/One-Shot/index.aspx
Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
At 07:52 AM 22/10/2015, you wrote:
Listers,
After ten years, the vinyl lettering on the Enterprise is starting
to wear down. Instead of spending big b
Chuck / Dave:
Chuck, I am with youI don't understand how a few cups of antifreeze
would get to the engine this way.
Dave, I do something similar to winterize the engine, but no exactly the
same. While on the hard, I fill a 5 gallon bucket in the cockpit with a
fresh water garden hose ke
Hello Harald
Mine did that when we bought the boat, ours was noisy when the main was
up though. The issue we had was that the horizontal pin in the
gooseneck had worn the holes oblong, so they were not a nice fit on the
pin any more. I bought a couple of brass bushings, drilled out the hole
We all are still praying, Mike and I hold regular meetings. Amen
brother, amen!
Hey, saw Mike's new boat last weekend, it is a sweet ride!
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2015-10-22 4:53 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote:
Rick:
I bought 3 gallons of Micron 66 4 years agoshould
Where's butyl?
(There's a roll in my refrigerator.)
I guess butyl's more of a sealant than an adhesive.
Not sure about that terminology, though.
--Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 4:40 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I did a bit of quick research on adhe
Our gooseneck assembly was a little worn down where the boom fitting rode
on the mast base, I put 3 nylon washers in between the boom and the mast
fittings and that shut that noise down. I'm still tracking the squeak off
the mainsheet and the weird noise the topping lift makes. McLube helps
everywh
Brightside is good paint. Used it on my boot stripe and cover it with PoliGlow.
Shines great, but maybe PoliGlow makes that happen.
Vinyl decals are the way to go for boat names and such. Just PoliGlow afterward
and the shine will be amazing.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magoth
No. It's me. I hired a voodoo priestess from the French Quarter in New Orleans
to send you Cakun barnacles. They have a chip on their shoulders from having
been kicked out of Acadiana years ago.
Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 22, 2015, at 2:53 PM, robert vi
Three years is about the experience I had when I still used Micron for
bottom paint.
Tip for you paint job in the spring: As a first coat paint the forward third
of the hull, the forward half of the keel, and the forward half of the
rudder with a contrasting color of paint. I use blue as a first c
A spray bottle of muriatic acid does the same thing. Use a cheap spray bottle
because you will only get to use it one time.
Rick Brass
Washington, NC
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dreuge via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 7:30 PM
T
Agree w Rick,
I find the scale left behind by a barnacle easily peels away from the paint
using a sharp (new) wood chisel and a gentle touch.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
- Original Message -
From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List"
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.co
I bought the decals on Belle at an Atlantic City Boat Show (back when they
still had them) from a company that specialized in lettering for boats. Not
Boat/US. That was back in about 95 or 96 and the letting is still in great
shape with no noticeable fading.
Had to replace one set of decals
Congrats on the 24!
Mainsheet arrangements can be changed. Priorities. Suggest you check the other
boats in you marina and copy the one you like best.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
- Original Message -
From: "Alex Wolfe via CnC-List"
To: cnc-list@cnc
Rob,
You may not have overly low temperatures in Halifax, but 2 gal of AF would
not be enough here (in Ottawa). Have you ever checked the actual
concentration of AF that is _leaving_ the exhaust? I use about 5 gal (20 l -
25 l). The extra $3.50 is a cheap insurance for not busting (bursting) th
Wow, 3 years for bottom paint is pretty darn good! Are you in really cold or
brackish environment?
I have a neighbor in my marina that is going to be in the Smithsonian if he can
keep the garden growing under his vintage Columbia sloop! He did get a nice 25
hp Merc installed on the back since I
agree w Marek,
I use about 4 gallons to do the boat if I capture the exhaust. 6 if I don't.
Ace Hardware has the best price now less than $2.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
- Original Message -
From: "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List"
To: cnc-list@cnc-list
Marek / Chuck:
I have never checked the actual concentration of the AF leaving the
exhaust.been doing the same thing for 10 years nowyou are making
me nervous!
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2015-10-22 11:51 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:
agree w Marek,
I use about 4
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