agree w Marek, 
I use about 4 gallons to do the boat if I capture the exhaust. 6 if I don't. 
Ace Hardware has the best price now less than $2. 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Marek Dziedzic" <dziedzi...@hotmail.com> 
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 10:48:19 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked! 



Rob, 



You may not have overly low temperatures in Halifax, but 2 gal of AF would not 
be enough here (in Ottawa). Have you ever checked the actual concentration of 
AF that is _ leaving _ the exhaust? I use about 5 gal (20 l - 25 l). The extra 
$3.50 is a cheap insurance for not busting (bursting) the heat exchanger or the 
muffler. 



Some interesting tests at Compass Marine: 
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/engine_freeze_protection . 



Marek 

1994 C270 “Legato” 

Ottawa, ON 




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via 
CnC-List 
Sent: October-22-15 21:19 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Hydrolocked! 




Chuck / Dave: 

Chuck, I am with you....I don't understand how a few cups of antifreeze would 
get to the engine this way. 

Dave, I do something similar to winterize the engine, but no exactly the same. 
While on the hard, I fill a 5 gallon bucket in the cockpit with a fresh water 
garden hose keeping it filled and over flowing if it happens....I run a hose 
from the bucket to the raw water pump (remove the raw water hose to the pump, 
of course)......start the engine to flush the salt water and warm up the 
engine....shut the engine down......empty the bucket of fresh water.....put a 
gallon of concentrated antifreeze plus one gallon of fresh water in the 
bucket....restart the engine until I see the antifreeze exiting the exhaust 
thruhull....system full of antifreeze......shut down the engine.....my Yanmar 
2GMF engine and exhaust system takes about the 2 gallons .....always a little 
left which I put in the head. 

Are you absolutely sure you have a hydrolock? As mentioned by a lister, first 
check your impeller in the raw water pump......if it is fine and all intact, I 
don't know how you could have a hydrolock but I am no marine engine mechanic. 

Rob Abbott 
AZURA 
C&C 32 - 84 
Halifax, N.S. 




On 2015-10-22 8:55 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote: 





Dave, 


I'm surprised a few cups of antifreeze would get to the engine by the way you 
describe. The point where the raw water shoots into the exhaust should be 
angled to enter the exhaust and not the engine. Before it backs up into the 
engine, your hose from cockpit to engine, raw water strainer, the heat 
exchanger, exhaust hose and muffler needs to fill first, before it can back 
into the engine. That's a lot of water to move. Also, remember if the engine 
was stopped, the exhaust valve is closed on 3 of the 4 cylinders, so the 
intrusion is limited. Starting the thing might blow it all out? 





If I remember right, I can open a water hose under pressure to my raw water 
pump but it doesn't pass through the impeller until I start the engine turning. 
I suspect your pump impeller may be worn and need replacement? 





I'm hoping it is not hydolocked, but not starting for some other reason 
probably electrical, key off, switch off, batteries turned off. Did you hear 
the solenoid click? Did the starter whine or hum at all? 





Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 



----- Original Message -----



From: "David Pulaski via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "David Pulaski" <davepula...@hotmail.com> 
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 3:47:46 AM 
Subject: Stus-List Hydrolocked! 





Thanks all for the words of advice! I'm going to be a wreck until Sunday when I 
can get there to try to resolve this situation. 





So here's how I managed to do this: 





I was attempting to winterize the engine, boat still in the water. First I just 
ran the engine normally for a while, maybe 30-45 minutes, while I got 
everything ready. After I shut it down and closed the raw water intake seacock, 
here was my winterizing plan: 5 gallon bucket sitting on the cockpit sole, 
filled with pink antifreeze. A length of hose running through the opening port 
in the aft cabin from the cockpit to the engine compartment, connected to the 
raw water side of the water strainer. Seemed simple enough: I could start the 
engine and watch the level in the bucket, adding more if necessary. 





My big mistake was attempting to prime the hose with antifreeze. I was just 
using a small cup to pour some antifreeze into the hose from the end up in the 
cockpit; no pressure. It didn't occur to me that the small height differential 
would be enough to push water past the raw water pump into the cylinders, but 
apparently it did. I didn't realize what had happened until I attempted to 
start the engine, and it wouldn't turn over. At first I thought the batteries 
didn't have enough juice to restart after my cold startup a few moments 
earlier. I stabbed the button a couple of times, and then it dawned on me. 





I went back down below and disconnected the exhaust hose from the manifold 
riser, and sure enough, pink poured out. Perhaps I'm having a stupid moment but 
I'm really still scratching my head over this. I really didn't pour much down 
the hose, just a couple of cups. But I'm actually somewhat hopeful that the 
contents of the cylinders is mostly antifreeze - should give some corrosion 
protection I'm hoping. 





Until sunday... 





-Dave 






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