Ed
I highly recommend installing an access hatch on the fourth side. It will save
your bacon some day when you need access to the alternator. My water pump
impeller is on the same side and adding that hatch eliminated impeller rage.
Don Newman
C&C 44
905 547 1750
> On Mar 1, 2015, at 13:21, E
I'm trying to understand the whole auto helm thing and what works with what.
1985 C&C 33 with auto helm 4000, and Loran, obviously a problem. Purchased
Raymarine I50/I60 instrument package and A95 chartplotter (not delivered yet)
Spoke to a RayMarine rep at Toronto Boat Show who thought there wo
You need to figure out what language each component is speaking. Most
likely you will have NMEA 0183, NMEA2000 (N2K), and possibly 1 or 2
variants of Seatalk.
There is a reasonable chance that all of your components have the ability
to use NMEA 0183. You may have some "special" features limited
Hi, Brad. In a previous life, I was a certified Raymarine dealer/installer and
ABYC/NMEA-certified in marine electrical and electronics, so maybe I can help
out.
First off, yes, it was Autohelm, then Raytheon, then Raymarine; and Raymarine
went through several ownership iterations since, now b
Complex systems that are not fully understood may not be something one should
use, or more especially, be dependent on.
“. . . you need access to the alternator. My water pump impeller . . .”
Ships batteries and the engine may be where fate is seeking adventure, so
Newman’s advice is outstandin
Don: Any chance of a picture of the access hatch you installed in you 44?
Fred Hazzard
C&C 44
Portland, Or
On Mon, Mar 2, 2015 at 6:16 AM, Don Newman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Ed
> I highly recommend installing an access hatch on the fourth side. It will
> save your bacon s
Hi,
I will be stepping my mast within the next week or two. One of the folks at my
marina asked if I was going to slather the bottom of the mast with Dolfinite.
I have never heard of this stuff before. I looked into it and it looks
reasonable. What do other apply or use when stepping thei
I don't see why you would want to bed the base of the mast. I think letting
any water which gets inside the mast into the bilge is best. Maybe to
reduce corrosion ...
Ed
Prime Interest
1982 Landfall 38
On Mar 2, 2015 11:55 AM, "PME via CnC-List" wrote:
> Hi,
>
>
> I will be stepping my mast wit
I cut an access hatch in the quarter berth, several years ago, to make it
easier to get to the oil dipstick and secondary filter. It was especially
handy, last week when I had to replace the mixing elbow.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
_
Well that's pretty clear. You Raymarine guys got it going on.
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick
G Street via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 02, 2015 9:48 AM
To: Bradley Lumgair; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Auto helm and Raymarine
Hi
> I've read that it's a "best practice" to run the charging to the biggest
> bank, but can't find any explanation as to why.
Hi Edd,
Here is my understanding. The ACR will combine a second battery while there is
a voltage present on the first battery. The alternator's voltage regulator
wi
Interesting. Not familiar with Dolfinite. Would TefGel work here?
Dennis C.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 2, 2015, at 10:21 AM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I don't see why you would want to bed the base of the mast. I think letting
> any water which gets inside the mast into the b
Paul:
Quite honestly, I have never seen a mast bonded to the mast step,
whether 'keel stepped' or 'deck stepped'. If the mast bottom is
'bonded', what happens to the water that undoubtedly makes its way down
the inside of the mast?
I'm with Ed on this one.why would you even consider app
Paul,
I guess that’s where I’m confused. When the alternator throws out 14+
volts, the ACR combines the batteries so they all get the charge. They become,
essentially, one big battery. Therefore the regulator won’t stop the charging
until everything is a full capacity, right?
The idea is that the house bank will need about 95% of the charging. The engine
start battery will usually be very close to full unless you have issues with
the engine. Therefore you are running the most current straight to the house
bank and only taking minor charging current through the ACR.
Rob:
The idea was to coat the bottom of outer and inner mast shell for added
corrosion protection, not to bond or pot the mast into the step. It was
explained to me that “everyone” does it, but from the responses so far, it
seems not to be true.
-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna
When I rebuilt my rig I made sure that there were a couple of 1/4" half
moons bored into the aft edges of the mast, to allow water to drain.
The rigger thought I was crazy. I also insisted that the new mast step
have holes drilled to allow water to drain to the bilge. The rigger
thought I wa
An update
The seller posted up a price ... $400 !!! I discussed it with him, armed with
the info provided via this forum (especially Dennis ... thanks) and offered
$150. He had a mild heart attack and went away ... came back later at $200. I
went to look at the boom vang and it was missing the
FWIW, Our OEM mast step is made of 1/2" thick aluminum plate with 4" high sides
of the same material all welded together to form a box. The mast sits forward
in this box and wooden wedges fill the box to lock the position. Originally the
step had only one 1/2" drain hole in the middle and it was
Thanks to everyone. With all this in mind I think ill be holding off on the
autopilot for a bit. The under deck units are much more expensive and seem
like much more involved to install. With this going to be our first full
season with the new boat there are many other things that will take pr
Wise decision.
On Mar 2, 2015 9:08 PM, "Joseph Scott via CnC-List"
wrote:
> Thanks to everyone. With all this in mind I think ill be holding off on
> the autopilot for a bit. The under deck units are much more expensive and
> seem like much more involved to install. With this going to be our fi
Well I was over to see the boat today, brought the Autohelm 4000 control box
home with me. Appears like its an original so there will be no chance of
communication going on between it and the new stuff. :(( no trace of anything
other than "Autohelm4000" and made in England so it's got to be as o
Hi Bradley,
Wouldn't you know it, I have one of those at my boat. Pre-Raytheon
days. I'm not sure mine even works anymore.
I say "at my boat" because I took it off during a boat work period
some time ago and never got around to reinstalling. So I believe
you're on the right path to use the b
Hi Bradley- My two bits for what it is worth- I would put money into an
autopilot before many of the systems on my boat. In fact, I just bought a new
one (Raymarine wheel pilot) because the old one was becoming unreliable and I
want to know it will work when I need it. I sail short handed or s
Just go with the appropriate new Garhauer.
-Original Message-
From: "Peter Fell via CnC-List"
Sent: 2015-03-02 7:24 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Subject: Re: Stus-List Garhauer Rigid Boom Vang
An update
The seller posted up a price ... $400 !!! I discussed it with him, armed with
Autopilot should be your first priority!
It will make sailing your boat so much more fun. You won't be a slave to the
helm and can tend to sailtrim or serving your guests. We use it to steer while
hoisting sails or dropping sails. It's the first bit of gear I added to my
boats. It's also someth
Roger that.
John wrote:
Just go with the appropriate new Garhauer.
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Sails? Balance?
Peace love and understanding?
y9u wrote:
Autopilot should be your first priority!
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