The running joke in the field is, 'The way to make a small fortune is to
take a large fortune and start a boat building business.'
Bill
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of William
Hall
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2013 4:03 PM
To: cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-
Awhile back I acquired a Hella unit ( 8504 ) when it was on sale for an
exceptional price but not yet installed. Significantly larger than what it
is replacing but seems to be a quality piece of kit.
Prior to launch next year I'll be re-wiring the mast and was looking for
comment on using condu
I always fear that C&C has not much in the way of a customer base anymore. To
me, the magic of C&C was literally coming back from a 2 week cruise, dumping
the dinghy off, grabbing a few more people, and going out to win a race.
Now I think cruisers want a BenHunCat and racers want some stripped
Joe
The 115 wins quite frequently and has a fabulous interior!
You can buy one of those new but would have to call it a Tartan 115 now
...
Mike
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe
Sent: Friday, September 06
No doubt the 115 is what we all like in a C&C, but how many did they sell?
Too bad the "new" C&C can't keep it :(
(btw, I would take one!)
Joe Della Barba
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2013 10:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.
Not sure Joe. 85 according to the class site but no idea when that was
updated. There are three at RNSYS where I sail on Koobalibra.
I wonder how many J120 there are? That is a very popular boat and more
indicative of current day fleet sizes than the designs of the 70s I
would think.
Mike
_
I used the wire tie method. Strap your wires together with zip ties every
couple of feet - three of them at angles to each other. Leave the tails on. The
tails keep the wires from clanging and you can drop a wire off at any place you
need, such as the steaming light. Plus you have no problem get
I’ve gone through a lot of these myself. Check out memory-map and US&Canada
(navionics) if you haven’t already.
When I’ve done the longer trips now I use a Samsung galaxy tab 10” with a
leather case jammed in on my companion way hatch. Screen is large enough to see
and I have been using the
Reaching to Block from Newport. That never happens. I'd like to compliment the
organizers. This is really above and beyond. Sailing next to another 40 called
Double Black. That really is a pretty boat. It's good to have such nice scenery
to gaze at!
Andy
Peregrine
C&C 40
Andrew Burton
61 W Narr
Or install a LED light instead (I imagine that the problem is with the halogen
bulb for the deck light). The replacement bulb would cost around $14 (1.5W) or
$24 (3W). And the house battery make like you more, as a bonus.
Marek
--
Message: 3
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2013 13
I think we are technically running from Branford to Block, but with 5 knots it
is upwind (a little). Expect the wind to ease then go South.
Tim
Mojito
On Sep 6, 2013, at 12:57 PM, Andrew Burton wrote:
> Reaching to Block from Newport. That never happens. I'd like to compliment
> the organiz
Dennis wrote:
Yup, can happen. Halogen bulbs burn hotter and have higher pressures inside.
The oils from your skin can cause uneven heating of the glass which may cause
the bulb to rupture.
Yup, I put on latex gloves when changing a Halogen light. (I keep the
chemical resistant blue Nit
I’m using the Navionics on both my iphone and my Galaxy Note 10.1. No real
complaints so far. Used the iphone mostly as I’m working on a steering pedestal
mount for the Samsung (I’m thinking of adapting some stanchion / rail parts to
mount a bent u-shaped tube frame around the sides and top of a
>From what I've gleaned on this and other forums, you should never use a
>silicone adhesive. And 52,000,000 should never be used if you ever want to
>remove the item in the future.
Andy
1981 C&C 40
Peregrine
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840
http://sites.google.com/site/
As I remarked - there is much debate on the best adhesives to use. I would
not rule out 5200 as you want a permanent installation. 5200 offers, good
adhesion and excellent water seal. However, there is much advice to use a
rigid glue so that the windows become part of the structure of the
The way to find partial sheets is to
shop among places that do plastic fabrication. They always have
pieces left over from jobs that they usually sell at a deep
discount, especially for particular tints that they feel may not
be easy to unload. The leftovers obvio
I'm considering the purchase of a 1981 C&C 40. One of the salon portlight
windows is cracked and needs to be replaced. I'm wondering if anyone has
completed this type of repair and what the level of effort is for a DIY
project and / or what the costs involved to have the windows replaced?
The ow
I replaced the windows on my C&C 29 -2 which are similar. Much has been written
on this topic, especially the choice of sealants (soft or rigid polyurethanes).
It is a manageable job. We used a technique running two lines (genoa sheets)
across the roof through both genoa tracks and using the
Try interstate plastics.
Joel Aronson
On Sep 6, 2013, at 5:50 PM, Bill Bina wrote:
The way to find partial sheets is to shop among places that do plastic
fabrication. They always have pieces left over from jobs that they usually
sell at a deep discount, especially for particular tints that th
Tom,
Going through the same thing on my 85 LF 39. Have discovered the best
replacement is 3/8" polybicarbonate tinted to a bronze color. Smoked grey is
another option. The problem is that anything tinted and 3/8" thick is hard to
find and most suppliers require you buy a whole sheet. Not su
Thomas:
Cast acrylic is a better choice than polycarbonate (which scratches easily).
You didn't tell us where you're located. In Portland, OR, MultiCraft Plastics
cut a piece of 12" X 72" cast acrylic for me. I used the old window and a
router with a pattern bit to cut a new one. The acrylic c
Adhesives are science, not speculation.
3m specifically says 5200 is not suitable for this application.
Limitations:
(continued)
- 3M™ Marine
Adhesive/Sealant 5200 is not recommended for the installation of
glass, polycarbonate or
acr
On my old Catalina, I did a project like this and used foam pipe insulation
around the wires. Since it is in 3 foot sections, it's easy to drop a wire
off. It also nicely protected the wires and removed any chance of noise. I
took the mast down several years later to inspect and found that it
Pulling off the old windows can often be the worst part. Unless they are
falling out already, expect some gelcoat to come with it. Repair this properly
so the adhesive can grip.
Plexus was my choice and the agent rented the gun too. It's not cheap. Stuff at
$35 bucks a cartridge and it took 1.
SW'ly is just kicking in light. But enough to sail in through the channel in
half an hour
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
On Sep 6, 2013, at 13:45, Tim Goodyear wrote:
> I think we are technically
I've never really understood why so
many people are resistant to using Plexus to rebed the portlights
on their C&C. The people who designed the boat didn't pick
Plexus out of a hat. They did their homework, and voted for
something they thought was appropriate. TIM
I WOULD rule out 3M 5200, as it's chemically incompatible with acrylic (which
most of us use to replace our fixed windows). The debate is between Sikaflex,
which some have used on this list successfully, and a two-part methacrylate
like Plexus, which many of us have used successfully (and which
Sent from my iPhone
Begin forwarded message:
> From: Tartan Marine Company
> Date: September 6, 2013, 2:08:33 PM EDT
> To: jrtau...@aol.com
> Subject: Tartan Marine Company Announces Strategic Focus On Tartan Yachts
> Reply-To: ccorbiss...@tartan-ccyachts.com
>
>
> FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
>
>
I am in need of an Airmar speed transducer. It needs to be the older 800
series that reads boat speed and temp. Further it needs to be an older unit
that is 1 5/8" in diameter.
Anybody have an older working unit in your surplus boat gear?
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
Portland, OR
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