On my old Catalina, I did a project like this and used foam pipe insulation 
around the wires.  Since it is in 3 foot sections, it's easy to drop a wire 
off.  It also nicely protected the wires and removed any chance of noise.  I 
took the mast down several years later to inspect and found that it had held up 
very well.  I would not hesitate to use this method again.

Regards,

Jim Reinardy
C&C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 6, 2013, at 10:01 AM, "Gary Nylander" <gnylan...@atlanticbb.net> wrote:

> I used the wire tie method. Strap your wires together with zip ties every 
> couple of feet - three of them at angles to each other. Leave the tails on. 
> The tails keep the wires from clanging and you can drop a wire off at any 
> place you need, such as the steaming light. Plus you have no problem getting 
> around the compression posts.
>  
> Gary
> 30-1
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Prime Interest
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Friday, September 06, 2013 10:27 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing steaming light Now Mast Wiring
> 
> Awhile back I acquired a Hella unit ( 8504 ) when it was on sale for an 
> exceptional price but not yet installed. Significantly larger than what it is 
> replacing but seems to be a quality piece of kit.
>  
> Prior to launch next year I’ll be re-wiring the mast and was looking for 
> comment on using conduit ( or not ) or some other method to affix the bundle 
> to reduce mast noise. I think the mast section has a slot running up the 
> interior which seems like it might be used at least part way up the mast.
>  
> Let’s say you’re using conduit – how do you account for wires to the 
> foredeck/steaming light? Two sections of a single run with a gap at the light 
> .. two separate conduits? Maybe the steaming light wire outside but strapped 
> to the conduit.
>  
> Typical bundle of wires – masthead nav lights ( 5-wires as it has all-around, 
> tri-light, strobe and light for Windex ), VHF ( using LMR 400 UF coax ), 
> masthead instruments, foredeck/steaming.
>  
> This is for a 1982 Landfall 38. 3 internal halyards – one for an inner 
> forestay which might give us an obstacle on the way up if we’re going up the 
> front of the mast but maybe the back of the mast is preferred in any case. 
> Double spreader so two compression posts to get past – running back-stay 
> fittings but I don’t think there are compression posts. And the top plate of 
> the mast is welded on so have to work through the hole from the masthead 
> instruments.
>  
>  
> ed
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> dre...@gmail.com
> Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2013 1:57 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing steaming old light
>  
> Dennis,
>  
>                         Thanks for the info.      Another question:    Are 
> you happy with the Aquasignal?    I was deciding between the Forespar ML-2, 
> Hella 8505, and the AquaSignal Series 25.   I  decided on the Hella based on 
> some bad reviews I found online for the other two.   The Forespar had reports 
> of top lens falling out while tacking and the AquaSignal was stated as not 
> having any spray protection for the deck light bulb and so bulbs corroded and 
> died prematurely.   
>  
>  
> -
> Paul E.
> 1979 C&C 29 Mk1
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
>  
> On Sep 5, 2013, at 10:49 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> 
> Message: 10
> Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2013 07:49:51 -0700 (PDT)
> From: "Dennis C." <capt...@yahoo.com>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing steaming old light
> Message-ID:
>           <1378392591.1503.yahoomail...@web121903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Paul,
> 
> If it is like the one on Touche's mast, I abandoned it.? It was that same 
> Perko all around light mounted on a metal "donut" welded to the mast.? I 
> installed an Aquasignal Series 25 combo steaming/foredeck light a bit above 
> the old fixture and dropped new wires.? 
> 
> I'm guessing the Aquasignal would fit over and hide the existing donut once 
> you remove the Perko light if you wanted to mount it in the same spot.? You 
> could use the existing wires to pull the new wires.
> 
> On a side note, Touche's pole topping lift exited another of those "donut" 
> things above the steaming light.? I have also abandoned that and installed an 
> exit box with sheave for    the topping lift.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
>  
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