I used the wire tie method. Strap your wires together with zip ties every couple of feet - three of them at angles to each other. Leave the tails on. The tails keep the wires from clanging and you can drop a wire off at any place you need, such as the steaming light. Plus you have no problem getting around the compression posts.
Gary 30-1 ----- Original Message ----- From: Prime Interest To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Friday, September 06, 2013 10:27 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing steaming light Now Mast Wiring Awhile back I acquired a Hella unit ( 8504 ) when it was on sale for an exceptional price but not yet installed. Significantly larger than what it is replacing but seems to be a quality piece of kit. Prior to launch next year I'll be re-wiring the mast and was looking for comment on using conduit ( or not ) or some other method to affix the bundle to reduce mast noise. I think the mast section has a slot running up the interior which seems like it might be used at least part way up the mast. Let's say you're using conduit - how do you account for wires to the foredeck/steaming light? Two sections of a single run with a gap at the light .. two separate conduits? Maybe the steaming light wire outside but strapped to the conduit. Typical bundle of wires - masthead nav lights ( 5-wires as it has all-around, tri-light, strobe and light for Windex ), VHF ( using LMR 400 UF coax ), masthead instruments, foredeck/steaming. This is for a 1982 Landfall 38. 3 internal halyards - one for an inner forestay which might give us an obstacle on the way up if we're going up the front of the mast but maybe the back of the mast is preferred in any case. Double spreader so two compression posts to get past - running back-stay fittings but I don't think there are compression posts. And the top plate of the mast is welded on so have to work through the hole from the masthead instruments. ed From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dre...@gmail.com Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2013 1:57 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing steaming old light Dennis, Thanks for the info. Another question: Are you happy with the Aquasignal? I was deciding between the Forespar ML-2, Hella 8505, and the AquaSignal Series 25. I decided on the Hella based on some bad reviews I found online for the other two. The Forespar had reports of top lens falling out while tacking and the AquaSignal was stated as not having any spray protection for the deck light bulb and so bulbs corroded and died prematurely. - Paul E. 1979 C&C 29 Mk1 S/V Johanna Rose Carrabelle, FL On Sep 5, 2013, at 10:49 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: Message: 10 Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2013 07:49:51 -0700 (PDT) From: "Dennis C." <capt...@yahoo.com> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing steaming old light Message-ID: <1378392591.1503.yahoomail...@web121903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Paul, If it is like the one on Touche's mast, I abandoned it.? It was that same Perko all around light mounted on a metal "donut" welded to the mast.? I installed an Aquasignal Series 25 combo steaming/foredeck light a bit above the old fixture and dropped new wires.? I'm guessing the Aquasignal would fit over and hide the existing donut once you remove the Perko light if you wanted to mount it in the same spot.? You could use the existing wires to pull the new wires. On a side note, Touche's pole topping lift exited another of those "donut" things above the steaming light.? I have also abandoned that and installed an exit box with sheave for the topping lift. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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