Mike, I did this job last year on my C&C33ii (2GM20F) and, as others have
suggested, take off the 4 bolts from the manifold. If you try to separate the
mixing elbow from the adjoining piece in place, you are liable to break
something and I don’t think you will be able to get enough leverage anyw
Mike:
I have virtually the same engine and did this job 2 years ago. If you
were doing it on a work bench, it would be easy but where it is makes it
a challenge.
First, the hose from the mixing elbow to the muffler..cut it and get
a new one.don't bother trying to take it off and reu
Take the whole thing off at the block. 4 bolts. Then you can use a big
wrench and a vice to get the pieces apart. You may want to replace the
part that attaches to the engine too. A light coating of high temperature
anti-seize will help get the pieces together tight enough to prevent
leakage.
While we are on mixing elbows, I plan on replacing mine this spring on my
Yammar 2GM20F. I am a bit worried about making a mess of this job as it looks
like the old one has never been touched and is firmly rusted in place. Any tips
for removing it?
Also, when I go to install the new one (whi
There are new aftermarket elbows being made of stainless steel. Not that
it matters but these are not OEM. Look around and you may find a polished
one. Dress up the engine room a bit. I see them on ebay all the time.
You can get the whole mixing elbow, nipple, and exhaust "riser" as one
package
could the oil cooler be a tube in shell "heat exchanger"?
- Original Message -
From: "Jim Watts via CnC-List"
To: "1 CnC List"
Cc: "Jim Watts"
Sent: Monday, January 18, 2016 8:44:30 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mixing elbow and Oil cooler
If it's a Yanmar, the mixing elbow should be considered a consumable. I
replace ours every 1000 hours or so. I doubt the new one is stainless, they
have been silver cast iron forever.
I know nothing about oil coolers.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 18 January 2016 at 15:15
