Hi Tom,
Wow, your nameplates are in really good shape. They don't look like
acrylic. It's obviously a material that stands up better. I have made
some improvements to my model since yesterday and now includes the "R".
See:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQRSP2fYIFmN21SUk9qZTVleVE/view?u
I also have double sheets with eyes and soft shackles. Sail zips through
the foretriangle with no hanging up on the shrouds. Highly recommended.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Wed, Jan 6, 2016 at 8:56 PM, William Walker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I went with t
Mike,
As a sheet material for cruising, you're not going to go wrong with a
polyester double braid. Higher tech ropes (Technora, Spectra, Dyneema,
Vectran) tend to have lower stretch, but will be stiffer and tend to take a
"set" around a winch which can lead to tangles and twists in the rope when
Wally,
You have been silent for too long yet, living your dream in Mexico/Baja, you
remain a legend and are missed like Harrison Ford from a Star Wars movie.
Bit of advice if you have a son; don't give him a hug if he carries a "Light
Saber" Just sayin.
Welcome back. Happy holidays all
I went with two sheets, each with an eye splice secured with soft shackles to
Clew of sail. Absolutely nothing to get hung up on babystay. Love the
arrangement.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi
Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
On Wednesday, January 6, 2016 Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
wrote:
Mik
Thanks all!! Always a good call to double check with this list.
I'll stick with separate sheets.
Mike
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___
Email a
Well stated.
Sent from my Samsung device
Original message
From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
Date: 2016-01-06 22:40 (GMT-04:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest
Subject: Re: Stus-List Jib sheet
Mike,
If you ever need to cut free a jib sheet, (to dea
Mike,
If you ever need to cut free a jib sheet, (to deal with a winch override or
other calamity) it is better to have two sheets tied to the clew than just
one continuous sheet with a cow hitch in the middle (or even luggage tagged
to the sail). If you tie your bowlines with small eyes and long t
The ring hitch might be extremely difficult to remove at year end...but
a bowline in a bight might be a better choice if you are going to take the
sheets off at end of season. Could also use a soft shackle.
If you really tighten up your bowlines I can't see why they would bind
on the baby stay
Ken,
I like the last version, best because it looks the cleanest and easiest to
read. My 2 cents.
- Original Message -
From: "Ken Heaton via CnC-List"
To: "cnc-list"
Cc: "Ken Heaton"
Sent: Wednesday, January 6, 2016 5:28:00 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate
Here are a t
Agree with you about higher moisture this year on the Chesapeake.
Once the temps stay below 40, it should be less of a problem? But for now, the
sun warms the air and the moisture condenses on cold surfaces of the boat
interior.
I'm reading the other responses, but I'm not sure that DampRid is
The Toronto Boat show is approaching and i'm putting together my list. My jib
sheets have seen better days so I need to replace them.
Am thinking of going with a single sheet with a ring hitch at the clew because
my bowlines tend to snag on the baby stay. Is there any reason NOT to do this??
You should make the suggestion to follow the lead of YRALIS!
On Sun, Jan 3, 2016 at 6:01 PM, William Walker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Eric,
> Interesting. Lake Michigan phrf regs do not contain such an exception
> and state that base handicap "assumes standard hull AND i
One thing to keep in mind is that at some point the surface area of calcium
chloride exposed becomes more important than how much volume/weight of it
you have. I've found a big tub of Damprid will eventually form a solid
layer at the top. At that point all the bulk dry salt under there is doing
you
Beautiful day here on Vashon Island. High 40's and sunny! Great
excuse for a walk down to Alera, for sure!
As promised. Looks like the paint on the raised portion is all wore
off. But aside from that they are in pretty good shape.
Dimensions are 19 3/8" X 2." Also the bottom edge appears
It could be an old Hood Seafoil. Basically a rod with twin grooves.
Dennis C.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 6, 2016, at 12:20 PM, James Nichols via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I am trying to figure out my head sail arrangement. I don't have self
> furling, I do have rod rigging (probably original
I have a Head Foil on my forestay – twin grooves to handle two sails (put the
new one up while the old one is up and then dump the old one). It fit pretty
tightly on the forestay, but I guess it would spin if forced. No furling. The
sails have rope luffs.
James, if your sails have hanks on
You could have what is called a "tough-luff". Every one I've seen spins.
You're fine. Yours probably slides up and down a little too.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jan 6, 2016 1:21 PM, "James Nichols via CnC-List"
wrote:
> I am trying to figure out my head sail arrange
Chuck,
After taking closer measurements, I have concluded that the ratio of
blade to handle on the sword is closer to 4 to 1 than the 3 to 1 in my
model. I will adjust accordingly.
Thanks,
Gary
~~~_/)~~
On Wed, Jan 6, 2016 at 4:16 AM, Gary W. Russell
wrote:
> Chuck,
> Does
Cool!
Gary
~~~_/)~~
On Wed, Jan 6, 2016 at 2:36 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I'll be heading down to Alera this afternoon to drop off my dehumidifier
> and will take the time to undo the dodger and take some pictures of the
> Nameplate. Since it has
I am down there every other day or maybe third day, so I should catch it before
it overflows. Good point though – have to watch where the bucket sits.
BTW – this is a new issue for us here on the Chesapeake. The amount of moisture
below is like 10-20 times what I usually deal with.
Joe
Coquina
>… the track that I have on the front stay…
James,
Do you have pictures of Kristy’s forestay available online?
Your description makes me think you may have a 70’s era StreamStay type
headsail luff rope system. Do your headsails have hanks attached or a luff
tape/rope?
If you do have the orig
I'll be heading down to Alera this afternoon to drop off my
dehumidifier and will take the time to undo the dodger and take some
pictures of the Nameplate. Since it has been under a dodger or
winter cover for most of the time, it's in fairly pristine condition.
Tom B
Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1
I hang the CaCl in nylon stockings over big buckets in the v-berth, head, and
salon.
Cut nylon in half, fill each leg 1/2 way, lasts about a month and no worries
about overflow.
Plus my girlfriend loves it when I use her nylons for stuff like that.
Someone mentioned mold/mildew formation. I
is this insulation meant to be attached to the inside of the engine compartment
for sound dampening?
jim
sea ya!
c&c 38 lf
-Original Message-
From: James Nichols via CnC-List
To: cnc-list
Cc: James Nichols
Sent: Wed, Jan 6, 2016 1:32 pm
Subject: Stus-List Acoustic Insulation
You mi
Makes sense to save money, but I would want to find out how to estimate the
pounds of CaCl to size of bucket ratio.
Nothing like an overflowing bucket of salty water in an untended boat.
Steve Thomas
Port Stanley, ON
- Original Message -
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
To:
You might look into Mineral Wool insulation.
It is dense and works great as a mass based sound dampener, it is fire proof,
so engine heat will have no effect on it. Non-toxic, fairly rigid, easy to
shape with a serrated blade.
Tons of benefits and I can't think of any drawbacks.
You shoul
Note that Damp-Rid is actually calcium chloride. I am going to buy a big bag of
it at Home Depot and leave a bucket sitting out.
We will see how well that works.
Joe
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 20
I am trying to figure out my head sail arrangement. I don't have self furling,
I do have rod rigging (probably original, will be thoroughly inspected before I
put it under stress).
I am guessing that the track that I have on the front stay is there because you
can't hank directly onto the rod.
Definitely wear a proper mask when sanding. Scrape first to minimize the dust
in the air.Collect the dust as best you can (you don't want it in the boat) and
double bag for disposal. Remember it is considered a hazardous waste and the
RCRA rules apply.RonWild CheriC&C30-1STL
From: Ru
Quite often Holland Marine has acoustic insulation on a big discount at the
Toronto Boat Show. (Next week!) Your timing may be perfect.
Len
Sent from my mobile device.
___
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, includ
Thanks all for info and perspectives on the retro-wheel-fit. Chuck G,
thanks for the Edson help. The ebay pic showed the wheel on an Edson ped
but you may be right on with the metric possibility. I will not modify the
hub shaft. I will toy around with the wheel. I have an additional Edson
shaf
s the third. Everyone is pretty convinced that
>> Ken has the best nameplate. All of the 37+'ers seem up for a bulk
>> order of nameplates. If you figure out a solution let us know.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons,
I bet that even a small (battery powered) fan would help. The more permanent
option is one of the solar powered fans, but even a 12 V computer chassis fan
would do (and they use hardly any current).
Marek
From: Chuck S via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 6, 2016 00:17
To: CNC boat owners, cn
+1 for the Furlex. I had Furlex on my C&C 24 and now I have a Harken A00. Night
and day. Furlex is substantially easier to attach (and detach) when you take
the mast down or step the mast back (and we do it twice a year).
I think both (Harken and Furlex) are designed for DIY installation (the
i
A few years back I purchase an Eva Dry condensorless dehumidifier
https://www.eva-dry.com/dehumidifiers/eva-dry-1100-petite-dehumidifier/
(I am not sure if condensorless is a word but I think it works in this case)
This is a 12v unit that weights approx. 4 lbs and removes up to one cup of
water
Thanks Joel and others who have responded. I have asked Holland Marine
for a Datasheet on their product (will try to get a sample also) and I am
going to briefly compare that with the Barymat stuff, Soundown, and will
look at Fat Mat as well. Will summarize and post results for posterity.
Dave
Curtis
I the sails are that old and you do plan to enter some club races consider
going 135% and tossing the old sails into a storage bin and throw away the key.
Find your area phrf adjustments to ensure the sail is not just over a
threshold and go from there. In our area the standard boat co
I'd be interested in getting some engine acousting insulation as well (also
in Toronto) as I don't think my boat has any in it. At least it doesn't
sound like it does! Can barely hear crew if they are not immediately in
front of me over all of the noise.
Crewed a few races on a C&C30 this year (al
After 1992 C&C Yachts marketed the *C&C 37/40* *+*, *XL* & *R* as the *C&C
40* so they learned that lesson.
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/brochures/40foot/40b3pg01.htm
Ken H.
On 6 January 2016 at 07:49, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
> Josh,
> I'm going to change the nameplates to "say
Josh,
I'm going to change the nameplates to "say" C&C 50 and see if I can
sell the boat for more money. 😀
Gary
~~~_/)~~
On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 5:45 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Looks awesome!
>
> It is completely authentic to the original. Very
Chuck,
I think I have discovered the problem. The sword on my nameplates has
the "blade" 3 times the length of the other points of the star. But I
measured the sword on other pictures where the "blade" is over 4 times the
length of the other points. So, apparently, the C&C sword/dagger/star
Here are a three different versions I've found online over the years.
Sorry about the massive links:
C&C 37+ Elindil -
http://newimages.yachtworld.com/resize/1/75/57/5427557_20151109151236681_1_XLARGE.jpg?f=/1/75/57/5427557_20151109151236681_1_XLARGE.jpg&w=924&h=693&t=1447113684000
C&C 37 XL - La
If it does have lead in it, there are precautions for sanding it safely.
The sanding dust will contain lead. You can find out easily if it has
lead by purchasing a simple lead test kit at any hardware or home
improvement store. It's basically a pen that you run along the surface
and then see if
I can't see any evidence on mine of having had a "+" or anything else... I
think you did a phenomenal job of replicating what was there. I was just
suggesting that since you're so good then making the name plate match would
be nice.
Josh
On Jan 6, 2016 4:17 AM, "Gary W. Russell via CnC-List" <
c
Chuck,
Does your nameplate have an "R" on it? I can't see any evidence that mine
had a "+" on it. I will check the dimensions on the sword.
Thanks,
Gary
Sent from my iPhone. ~~~_/)~~~
> On Jan 6, 2016, at 12:01 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Nice image. Since you asked, the sw
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