Sophie,

I have some that I don't need as I now have an electric motor.  I am in Toronto 
and I bought it years ago from Holland Marine and never used it.

Thanks,


Alex Giannelia
a...@airsensing.com
(416) 203-9858

-----Original Message-----
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: January-06-16 8:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 120, Issue 19

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  C&C Nameplate (Gary Russell)
   2. Re:  C&C Nameplate (Ken Heaton)
   3. Re:  Engine acoustic insulation, incl. sources in (Sophia Weber)
   4. Re:  Furler system (Hoyt, Mike)
   5. Re:  Engine acoustic insulation, incl. sources in Canada?
      (Dave Syer)
   6. Re:  winter condensation (Hoyt, Mike)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2016 06:49:38 -0500
From: Gary Russell <captnga...@gmail.com>
To: "C&C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate
Message-ID:
        <cabgkxpkmswqtjqowgssv4qey4szthmb6bxxk0trr5snotvl...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Josh,
     I'm going to change the nameplates to "say" C&C 50 and see if I can sell 
the boat for more money.  ?
Gary

~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~


On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 5:45 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looks awesome!
>
> It is completely authentic to the original.  Very well done.  I agree
> that either a "+"  or an "R" or "XL" or "37/40" would be nice options
> and appropriate.
>
> I am apprehensive about the durability of plastic and I personally
> will continue to pursue a polished metal plaque.  I had imagined
> something similar to Ken's but as I'm writing this I re-imagined
> something laser etched.  This is a phenomenal start towards either of those 
> goals.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Jan 5, 2016 5:14 PM, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List"
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Beautiful !  You may have a future there - !
>>
>>
>>
>> Seems like you should have the + on there, as the 37 is a completely
>> different boat.
>>
>>
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>>
>> C&C 39 Erie PA
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of
>> *Gary Russell via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 05, 2016 4:50 PM
>> *To:* C&C List
>> *Cc:* Gary Russell
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate
>>
>>
>>
>> I have created a CAD file of the starboard side nameplate.  I welcome
>> your opinions and criticism.  You may see it here:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQRSP2fYIFmR3dFbllPdXZ6aHc/view?usp
>> =sharing
>>
>>
>>
>> It's only the starboard side (so far), but all the symbols and
>> characters are individual components, so they can easily be
>> re-arranged.  I need to check a few dimension on the boat before I
>> send it out for fabrication, but it was just too cold here today to bother.
>>
>>
>>
>> Gary
>>
>> S/V High Maintenance
>>
>> '90 C&C 37 Plus
>>
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>>
>> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 2:59 PM, Gary Russell <captnga...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Josh,
>>
>>      The dimensions I have are 21-3/16"L x 2"H x 1/4"T.  If using
>> acrylic, I would definitely recommend VHB tape.  It is terrific stuff
>> for acrylic and gelcoat.
>>
>>
>>
>> Gary
>>
>>
>> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 11:58 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I may have missed the message or dropped the ball last year.  Sorry folks.
>>
>> The one on Ken's boat is aftermarket and is held on with 2 screws,
>> one at each end.  The way I imagined one being made and installed was
>> that the original plaque would be ground flush and the new metal
>> plate fitted over top.  For attachment I felt like welded on studs
>> (in place of screws) that went through the hull/deck was most
>> favorable.  I don't know any of the engineering hurdles.  To be
>> honest, an automotive body shop would just use 3M VHB tape.
>>
>> The pictures should be sufficient to create a scale model.  The
>> height is roughly 2.5 inches.  I'll try to get real measurements asap
>> so that the scale can be applied to achieve the correct finished size.
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yUklxR0VXQUd0WjA/edit
>>
>> Josh
>>
>> On Jan 4, 2016 11:24 AM, "david via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> This topic came up last year and I will put forward the same offer.
>>
>>
>>
>> I own / work at a shop that has CNC machining capability and 3D solid
>> modeling expertise. We work with solid models every day. My engineer
>> is also an enthusiast of 3D printing and last year bought his own
>> printer, although I am not sure of the size of it. It is able to
>> print to different grades and / or quality of acrylic.
>>
>>
>>
>> I would like to offer to produce a solid model at the least. The
>> beauty of a model is you can see what it looks like prior to building 
>> anything.
>> There are lots of manufacturing or production techniques that can be
>> used to make these depending on the material one wants to use. From
>> what I recall the ones with the raised letter (maybe acrylic) were also 
>> "recessed"
>> into the cabin. I think the ones on Ken's boat are proud of the
>> surface and maybe were never recessed or this was filled up.
>>
>>
>>
>> I believe where it left off last time was someone was going to make a
>> sketch or more specifically a "rubbing" of the outline so we had at
>> least the outer dimensions and scale of the logo and star.
>>
>>
>>
>> David Donnelly
>>
>> C&C 26 Mistress
>>
>> On January 3, 2016 at 10:36 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Yeah Gary,
>>
>> The old looking pictures are my boat.  The new ones are Ken Heaton's.
>> This subject has come up at least twice since I've been a member of
>> the list.  This makes the third.  Everyone is pretty convinced that
>> Ken has the best nameplate.  All of the 37+'ers seem up for a bulk
>> order of nameplates.  If you figure out a solution let us know.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2016 08:15:31 -0400
From: Ken Heaton <kenhea...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate
Message-ID:
        <caabfp6t-3j3wygmuaz8qyyrjrmiwshs_p-kwn8hzo3qtf_-...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

After 1992 C&C Yachts marketed the *C&C 37/40* *+*, *XL* & *R* as the *C&C
40* so they learned that lesson.

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/brochures/40foot/40b3pg01.htm

Ken H.



On 6 January 2016 at 07:49, Gary Russell via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> wrote:

> Josh,
>      I'm going to change the nameplates to "say" C&C 50 and see if I
> can sell the boat for more money.  ?
> Gary
>
> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
>
>
> On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 5:45 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Looks awesome!
>>
>> It is completely authentic to the original.  Very well done.  I agree
>> that either a "+"  or an "R" or "XL" or "37/40" would be nice options
>> and appropriate.
>>
>> I am apprehensive about the durability of plastic and I personally
>> will continue to pursue a polished metal plaque.  I had imagined
>> something similar to Ken's but as I'm writing this I re-imagined
>> something laser etched.  This is a phenomenal start towards either of those 
>> goals.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> On Jan 5, 2016 5:14 PM, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Beautiful !  You may have a future there - !
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Seems like you should have the + on there, as the 37 is a completely
>>> different boat.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Bill Coleman
>>>
>>> C&C 39 Erie PA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf
>>> Of *Gary Russell via CnC-List
>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 05, 2016 4:50 PM
>>> *To:* C&C List
>>> *Cc:* Gary Russell
>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I have created a CAD file of the starboard side nameplate.  I
>>> welcome your opinions and criticism.  You may see it here:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQRSP2fYIFmR3dFbllPdXZ6aHc/view?us
>>> p=sharing
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> It's only the starboard side (so far), but all the symbols and
>>> characters are individual components, so they can easily be
>>> re-arranged.  I need to check a few dimension on the boat before I
>>> send it out for fabrication, but it was just too cold here today to bother.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Gary
>>>
>>> S/V High Maintenance
>>>
>>> '90 C&C 37 Plus
>>>
>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>>
>>>
>>> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 2:59 PM, Gary Russell <captnga...@gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Josh,
>>>
>>>      The dimensions I have are 21-3/16"L x 2"H x 1/4"T.  If using
>>> acrylic, I would definitely recommend VHB tape.  It is terrific
>>> stuff for acrylic and gelcoat.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Gary
>>>
>>>
>>> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 11:58 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> I may have missed the message or dropped the ball last year.  Sorry
>>> folks.
>>>
>>> The one on Ken's boat is aftermarket and is held on with 2 screws,
>>> one at each end.  The way I imagined one being made and installed
>>> was that the original plaque would be ground flush and the new metal
>>> plate fitted over top.  For attachment I felt like welded on studs
>>> (in place of screws) that went through the hull/deck was most
>>> favorable.  I don't know any of the engineering hurdles.  To be
>>> honest, an automotive body shop would just use 3M VHB tape.
>>>
>>> The pictures should be sufficient to create a scale model.  The
>>> height is roughly 2.5 inches.  I'll try to get real measurements
>>> asap so that the scale can be applied to achieve the correct finished size.
>>>
>>> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yUklxR0VXQUd0WjA/edit
>>>
>>> Josh
>>>
>>> On Jan 4, 2016 11:24 AM, "david via CnC-List"
>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> This topic came up last year and I will put forward the same offer.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I own / work at a shop that has CNC machining capability and 3D
>>> solid modeling expertise. We work with solid models every day. My
>>> engineer is also an enthusiast of 3D printing and last year bought
>>> his own printer, although I am not sure of the size of it. It is
>>> able to print to different grades and / or quality of acrylic.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I would like to offer to produce a solid model at the least. The
>>> beauty of a model is you can see what it looks like prior to building 
>>> anything.
>>> There are lots of manufacturing or production techniques that can be
>>> used to make these depending on the material one wants to use. From
>>> what I recall the ones with the raised letter (maybe acrylic) were also 
>>> "recessed"
>>> into the cabin. I think the ones on Ken's boat are proud of the
>>> surface and maybe were never recessed or this was filled up.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I believe where it left off last time was someone was going to make
>>> a sketch or more specifically a "rubbing" of the outline so we had
>>> at least the outer dimensions and scale of the logo and star.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> David Donnelly
>>>
>>> C&C 26 Mistress
>>>
>>> On January 3, 2016 at 10:36 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Yeah Gary,
>>>
>>> The old looking pictures are my boat.  The new ones are Ken Heaton's.
>>> This subject has come up at least twice since I've been a member of
>>> the list.  This makes the third.  Everyone is pretty convinced that
>>> Ken has the best nameplate.  All of the 37+'ers seem up for a bulk
>>> order of nameplates.  If you figure out a solution let us know.
>>>
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C&C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to
>>> the bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to
>>> the bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to
>>> the bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2016 07:20:00 -0500
From: Sophia Weber <sophia.we...@gmail.com>
To: 1 CnC List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine acoustic insulation, incl. sources in
Message-ID:
        <capn7gcix4hf8musnpeii588-yoqp6wtpvv+kgdhx0xeq1c8...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I'd be interested in getting some engine acousting insulation as well (also in 
Toronto) as I don't think my boat has any in it. At least it doesn't sound like 
it does! Can barely hear crew if they are not immediately in front of me over 
all of the noise.

Crewed a few races on a C&C30 this year (also on this list), and could barely 
hear the engine was on! So there is definitely something I should be able to do 
with my gal as well. If anybody finds a good deal somewhere, please let me 
know. Maybe there will be something at the boat show?

Sophia
C&C 29 MK1
NYC Toronto

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Derek McLeod <derekmcl...@gmail.com>
To: Dave Syer <syerd...@gmail.com>
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2016 00:14:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine acoustic insulation, incl. sources in Hi,

I've purchased soundproofing products from Acoustiguard for use in my house and 
was happy with them as a supplier. I can't speak specifically to the Barymat 
product.

I'm also planning to replace my engine compartment insulation as it is 
disintegrating. I was thinking of Roxul AFB at first and then just saw 
Acoustiguard has a fibreglass faced mineral fibre board called ML Board that 
might be worth pricing out. Comes in 1" or 2" thickness and says its uses 
include engine enclosure linings.

The Barymat BTMM-14C is foil faced, 1.25" thick and says its suitable for 
marine use (dirty, wet or oily). Might be worth getting pricing on as well...

Derek McLeod
1983 29-2 Aileron
Toronto

On Jan 5, 2016, at 8:47 PM, Dave Syer <syerd...@gmail.com> wrote:

Thanks Don, (And Tim)

Will check out the HMP material.  I also found something called Barymat BM-1C 
at two local industrial suppliers one of whom quoted C$134 for
27sqft. (54X72)   (HMP is C$95 13sqft, not the same stuff though)   I have
a sample of the barymat material and it is quite heavy at 1.6lb/sqft.
Will compare its mass to HMP.  BM-1C t is .32" thick vs 1" for HMP, but I don't 
know about the density.

http://www.acoustiguard.com/products/acoustic-sheet-roll-materials/barymat-bm-1c.html


Anyone ever use this Barymat material?  (or similar?)

Dave




Message: 1
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2016 12:02:28 -0500
From: Don Newman <donrnew...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine acoustic insulation, incl. sources in
        Canada?
Message-ID: <5b2a703e-d8f7-4f4d-b8b5-d9e2f280d...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=us-ascii

HMP has some good reasonably priced material.
I have left overs if you are near Hamilton.

Don Newman
905 547 1750

> On Jan 5, 2016, at 11:21 AM, Dave Syer via CnC-List
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> Have searched the archives and found some great discussion on
> insulation
installation practices.  Several folks replaced this material in 2014.
Funny remark on the existing material being "both lily and dusty at the
same time.   Mine is making a mess.
>
> Any particularly good materials to recommend?
> Any suggestions as to sources in Canada?  (Toronto specifically - film
industry gen set people would be ideal...)
>
> Thanks, Dave
>
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2016 13:34:30 +0000
From: "Hoyt, Mike" <mike.h...@impgroup.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Furler system
Message-ID:
        <169e312f80b4c044be2dc1780a7de72f10b...@hfxexc11.impgroup.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Curtis

I the sails are that old and you do plan to enter some club races consider 
going 135% and tossing the old sails into a storage bin and throw away the key. 
 Find your area phrf adjustments to ensure the sail is not just over a 
threshold and go from there.  In our area the standard boat comes with 155% 
headsail with no adjustment, up to 135 with +6 sec/mile, 110 or less with 12 
sec /mile.  Note that these adjustments are for MASTHEAD RIGS ONLY (ex. C&C 
30-1) sailing with no spinnaker.  There is an additional adjustment for 
masthead non spinnaker boats of a further +18 sec/mile.

A C&C Redwing 30 at our club went thru exactly your exercise a few years back. 
They ended up with a 135% furling headsail and dropped the old 150 hank on from 
their inventory.  The 135 being new was far faster than the old 150 in all 
winds and also gave them the 6 sec/mile adjustment.  Their overall happiness 
was thru the roof as they now had the convenience of a 135.  My friends with 
the Redwing do between 5 and 10 club races a year mostly against other mom and 
pop boats like the C&C 30-1 (there are four or five at the club) and one other 
redwing 30.   They had North Sails Atlantic perform the work and provide the 
sails and furling.

Best of luck with this.  You and your wife will LOVE IT!!!

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2016 10:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Curtis
Subject: Stus-List Furler system


I have the approval from the admiral to purchase a new sail and furler system 
for my C&C30MK1.  1981 1/4 ss wire

Any advise on how or what to buy? I have no Idea how to proceed. I have a 115% 
135% and a 170%. all hank on sails. I have a asymmetrical in a sock as well.

My budget needs to be around or below $4, to 5 grand.

I'm looking for advise on the complete package.

1) can I install it?

2) how do I know what to buy? I sail local with fun club racing?

3) my sails are all from the 1980's and 1990's? Throw them out and buy new?

3) Asy furler?

Thanks for your help





Capt,Curtis McDaniel



Dataw island Marina

843-838-8410<tel:843-554-8901> Office

http://www.datawmarina.com/

~~~~ __/) ~~~~

.


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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2016 08:39:13 -0500
From: Dave Syer <syerd...@gmail.com>
To: Jake Brodersen <captain_j...@cox.net>
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine acoustic insulation, incl. sources in
        Canada?
Message-ID:
        <cad7ywjnc2fbou1srst_0p0fyp3lgo3sz1hju_oh2wrx26al...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Thanks Joel and others who have responded.   I have asked Holland Marine
for a Datasheet on their product (will try to get a sample also) and I am going 
to briefly compare that with the Barymat stuff, Soundown, and will
look at Fat Mat as well.   Will summarize and post results for posterity.

Dave






On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 9:24 PM, Jake Brodersen <captain_j...@cox.net> wrote:

> Dave,
>
>
>
> I bought Sounddown insulation.  It was kind of pricey, even at Defender.
> It works well.  I?ve started using a product called Fat Mat in my
> cars/trucks.  It is thin, but heavy.  It sticks to most surfaces and
> is easy to apply.  I might try some on the boat soon too.  It is also
> fairly inexpensive.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C&C 35 Mk-III ?Midnight Mistress?*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of
> *Dave Syer via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 5, 2016 11:21
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Dave Syer <syerd...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Stus-List Engine acoustic insulation, incl. sources in Canada?
>
>
>
> Hi All,
>
>
>
> Have searched the archives and found some great discussion on
> insulation installation practices.  Several folks replaced this material in 
> 2014.
> Funny remark on the existing material being "both lily and dusty at the
> same time.   Mine is making a mess.
>
>
>
> Any particularly good materials to recommend?
>
> Any suggestions as to sources in Canada?  (Toronto specifically - film
> industry gen set people would be ideal...)
>
>
>
> Thanks, Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2016 13:43:03 +0000
From: "Hoyt, Mike" <mike.h...@impgroup.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List winter condensation
Message-ID:
        <169e312f80b4c044be2dc1780a7de72f10b...@hfxexc11.impgroup.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

A few years back I purchase an Eva Dry condensorless dehumidifier 
https://www.eva-dry.com/dehumidifiers/eva-dry-1100-petite-dehumidifier/

(I am not sure if condensorless is a word but I think it works in this case)

This is a 12v unit that weights approx. 4 lbs and removes up to one cup of 
water per day.  The unit comes with a 110v wall plug adaptor but for some 
reason not the 12v cord.  Whenever we are at our dock I plug this in and leave 
it on all the time.  When we go sailing I put it on a shelf over the settee 
since it is very small and light.  If I was to be away from the boat for 
extended periods I could probably drill a hole in the reservoir and place it in 
the sink to provide drainage.  This is a great unit and when mine finally dies 
I will buy another.  It beats the Heck out of dragging a full sized 
dehumidifier on and off a boat as I used to do on previous boats

Note that I obviously do not use this once the temps fall below freezing

Mike
Persistence
Halifax

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2016 1:50 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List winter condensation


I'm  having the same problems as everyone else.  Never before.

I worry about leaving heating appliances running while I'm not there.  I bought 
a dehumidifier.  30 pint/day.  Might not be any safer to leave alone than a 
heater.  Oddly, I have a engine block heater which I don't have any fear of 
leaving unattended.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jan 5, 2016 9:39 PM, "Russ & Melody via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Joe,

Your current conditions sum up a B.C. South Coast winter pretty well.

I run a ceramic style "cube" heater set about 10 degrees F above ambient and on 
a 12 hour timer set to come on at midnight. This allows me to override the 
timer if I'm puttering on the boat during the day.

80 bucks CDN is my winter electric bill.

If it gets really cold, like now it's at freezing, then I might get some 
condensation on the fore hatch 'cause I don't have a foredeck tarp hung yet.

        Cheers, Russ
        Sweet 35 mk-1
        B.C. South Coast


At 09:10 AM 05/01/2016, you wrote:

This winter with weather going form warm and humid to cold and back has caused 
more condensation than the last 10 winters combined.
Anyone have any good ideas to get rid of it? Right now I am thinking about 
getting calcium chloride (the ingredient in Damp-Rid) and putting out a bucket 
of it plus maybe turning the heat up. I usually have it set about 45-50 degrees 
or so if I am not down there doing something.
Joe
Coquina
Cabin temp 51 degrees right now: http://aprs.fi/telemetry/a/N3HGB-5


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