Hi Brad
The builder's certificate can be found here as a PDF:
http://wwwapps.tc.gc.ca/Corp-Serv-Gen/5/Forms-Formulaires/searchrs.aspx?formnumber=84-0040
This is the info site for registering:
http://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/marinesafety/oep-vesselreg-registration-menu-2311.htm#firsttime
This is the home
Wow - thank you all for the fantastic comments re. making sense of the deck
layout on our 32. Very helpful! I'm in Seattle, and plan on mainly cruising
(Puget Sound, Gulf Islands) and hopefully working up to some casual racing (is
that a contradiction in terms?) in Elliott Bay, etc. The C&C 32 a
Propane. Most butane stoves are not marine grade and some have a nasty
habit of exploding. Unless you are talking about cooking over 40 Bic
lighters taped together, in which case it's fine.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 5 March 2015 at 19:27, John Pennie via CnC-List
wro
Thanks Graham. Boat currently has a Garmin GPS and wind speed/gps speed but no
plotter or moving map. Would the raymarine work with those?
Thanks
Joe
Sent from my iPad
> On Feb 28, 2015, at 9:37 PM, Graham Collins
> wrote:
>
> Hi Joe
> Depends on what you want to use it for, I would doubt
In a word - butane.
John
>
> An question from another new C&C 33 MK II owner.
>
> I have been trying to get the original Hillerange two burner pressure alcohol
> stove working, and it scares me. One burner lights, flame is blue but not
> adjustable. The other sounds like a jet engine and bu
"John from Enterprise"?? Competition?
All the best,
Edd
---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400 | Office
914.774.9767 | Mobile
---
An question from another new C&C 33 MK II owner.
I have been trying to get the original Hillerange two burner pressure alcohol
stove working, and it scares me. One burner lights, flame is blue but not
adjustable. The other sounds like a jet engine and burns about 8" high. Made an
easy decision
I have a 1983 C&C 37 and greatly change the deck layout. I moved the traveller
from the cabin top to the bridge deck and converted to end boom sheeting. I do
a lot of solo racing and find this arrangement a lot easier to handle.
All my halyards and control lines run aft, but I have the ability t
Have to agree with all of the comments
local loft trumps name brand
15-25 true unless you’re seriously racing I would think 120 max.
Not sure I would go cross cut dacron even at 25 knots true but something not
too far away.
John
On Mar 5, 2015, at 8:34 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List
wr
The Lake Ontario 300 is classed as a cat. 3 race. If we don't have a stability
index for our boat, we can use one from a sister ship if it is available.
Mac McKenzie1983 C&C 37 - Worthy Pearl
___
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list
C&C 40/37+ 121.6 (RUTAINE)
C&C 37-2 Deep Keel 124.3 (MICHELA)
On 5 March 2015 at 20:36, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List wrote:
> 109.1
>
>
> On Thu, Mar 5, 2015 at 4:11 PM John Bousfield via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> What does the C&C 36 rate?
>>
>> On Thursday, March 5, 2015,
Mike,
In heavy air, I would tend to stay with Dacron instead of a membrane type sail.
My racing #3 is stiff Dacron. It is strong and will last a long time. The
membrane sails don’t like to be flogged or abused. Tacking in heavy air is
really hard on them. I’d been through a couple of N
109.1
On Thu, Mar 5, 2015 at 4:11 PM John Bousfield via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> What does the C&C 36 rate?
>
> On Thursday, March 5, 2015, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> All,
>>
>> I need to certify that my boat has a stability factor under OR
I'm sure that some of my fellow Canadians have actually registered (not
licensed) their boats with the Feds. I'd appreciate some more of your generous
help. What exactly are they looking for when they ask for the builders
certificate? I don't see anything like that in the documentation I have.
What does the C&C 36 rate?
On Thursday, March 5, 2015, Joel Aronson via CnC-List
wrote:
> All,
>
> I need to certify that my boat has a stability factor under ORR of 110 or
> more, IRC of 28 or more or STYX of 32 or more.
>
> Does anyone know the stability factor for a 35 Mk III or how to find
You missed the Landfall 48, at 145! :^)
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
On Mar 5, 2015, at 5:20 PM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List
wrote:
> Amazing - great information! It is interesting that you could enter one of
> our older b
That really is amazing. I’m having hard time with the numbers for both the 110
and 121; particularly in relation to the 34.
John
On Mar 5, 2015, at 6:20 PM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List
wrote:
> Amazing - great information! It is interesting that you could enter one of
> our older boats in th
Amazing - great information! It is interesting that you could enter one of
our older boats in this race, but not a C&C 110. From the 2014 scratch
sheet:
110108/109
115112-116
121110
33 118
33-2 123
34 117
35/1 114
35/2 121
35/3 117-122
37 120
Tim
On Thu, Mar
You guys are amazing!
Joel
On Thursday, March 5, 2015, Steve Sharkey wrote:
> Joel,
>
> I was able to find information from a sister ship for by boat at this site
> http://www.ussailing.org/racing/offshore-big-boats/orr/orr-scratch-sheets/2014-windward-leeward-5050-scratch-sheet-age-date-abs-
Joel,
I was able to find information from a sister ship for by boat at this site
http://www.ussailing.org/racing/offshore-big-boats/orr/orr-scratch-sheets/2014-windward-leeward-5050-scratch-sheet-age-date-abs-and-stability-index/
Looks like there are a few C&C 35s listed all with stability abov
There's a spreadsheet a few posts down at this site, sorting the data by
Class shows C&C 35-3 have a range of ORR SI from 117 to 122.
http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/sailboats/perils-edgy-design-offshore-38903-30.html
Otherwise, it takes lines plans, weight data and calculations...
Neil Galla
The following site will calculate angle of vanishing stability (my 33-1 comes
in at 139.11
http://www.sailingcourse.com/keelboat/cal__avs.htm
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 05, 2015 3:48 PM
To: cnc-list@
You might be able to find STIX info in the ISO standard 12217 doc’s:
http://www.iso.org/iso/iso_catalogue/catalogue_tc/catalogue_detail.htm?csnumber=55957
It looks like a STIX of 32 corresponds with Beaufort Force 10 (48-55 knots), or
what they refer to as Category A.
— Fred
Fred Street -- Min
Take a crane to the masthead and tip it over… :^)
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
On Mar 5, 2015, at 2:48 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List
wrote:
> Does anyone know the stability factor for a 35 Mk III or how to find it?
__
All,
I need to certify that my boat has a stability factor under ORR of 110 or
more, IRC of 28 or more or STYX of 32 or more.
Does anyone know the stability factor for a 35 Mk III or how to find it?
--
Joel
301 541 8551
___
Email address:
CnC-List@c
As I mentioned the other day, Guido at Garhauer used a track that was taller
than standard and drilled it to fit the hole pattern left over from the old
traveler being replaced. I seem to recall the traveler car is made with a
slight modification for clearance inside the width of the recess in m
Hans-Erik:
The original standing and running rigging on a 32 was pretty basic when
they were built. The original setup for the jib halyard and main
halyard were winches and deck cleats on the cabin top just aft of the
mast. The main sheet led back from the base of the mast to a winch and
de
On Pegasus I just installed a new Garhauer traveler. I used the original
bridge but added a 1" square tube to space it above the channel the
original was in. Guido drilled the new track to fit my bridge (holes in
different places, all screws busted off).
Doug
sv Pegasus
LF38 hull #4
On Thu, Mar 5,
Has anyone replaced the traveler system or found alternate blocks. So cramped
in there?___
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To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of
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I had a 6 person coastal commander mounted on my previous boat in a cradle
with a hydrostatic release. It was a power boat with plenty of room on the
deck forward of the house. The cradle mount is very robust when mounted
directly to the deck and the retaining straps are probably strong enough to
r
Yes the mount has to be incredibly robust attached to a well built stern rail
or the boat itself. And the mount should be as low as possible as well to
minimize leverage if hit by a wave and designed with a quick release. I am
sure there are proven designs out there.
As a general observatio
I’ve had the same thought myself. What a shame if a gem of a shop like Garhauer
got big and well known like Harken?
Garhauer would be more profitable, but prices would go up, custom work would be
out, and customer service would suffer.
I’ve got nothing against Harken, really, I even have
That would be mine concern, as well. The time you’ll need the raft is when the
$#!+ has really hit the fan; and at that point, most of your rail-mounted stuff
will have already been washed off the boat.
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI
Hans:
Lots of great advice here from other listers, but I wonder if it would be
helpful to describe what your sailing style is. Do you i9ntend to mainly
cruise, where would you sail, what winds are you likely to experience, etc.
If you are a racer, then certain lines are necessary, but if you a
I am probably stating the obvious, but from what I have read so far, the
critical thing is how you mount the raft. Many people got the rafts blown away
by waves (water), especially in knock downs. The forces in play are
substantially higher than almost anything we normally imagine.
Marek
From:
I had very good results with Somerset Sails. They are in NY (Barker, NY,
outside of Buffalo), so not necessarily very local. Not having any local sail
loft where I am, this was the next best. I spent several hours with Martin
discussion what I need and how I want it and he made a couple of very
Perfect sized sail. Big enough for drive and pointing and small enough so you
or your crew wont pass out from exhaustion tacking...
Great advice from others on loft choice. Me? In order of preference;
Quantum, Ullman and North
David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
From: mikeflannery...@yah
Thankfully never had first hand experience but from what I have read the stern
mount is quicker, easier and therefore safer. Imagine humping that canister
from the heaving cabin top (where the waves like to go) to the rail in tough
conditions (hence the abandon ship part), and then heaving it
135? What are your prevailing winds speeds? Are you racing or cruising?
Short-handed or fully crewed?
David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2015 02:17:33 +
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Genoa Sailmakers c&C 38-3
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Intereste
I agree with Edd. Working with a local sailmaker is nearly priceless. The
only sailloft in Solomons, MD is Quantum. Clark Mckinney was great at
helping me compare other companies estimates and products to optimize value
and function of the Quantum product. Fit, test sail, and revisions were
ea
Mike,
I have a North main and a Quantum headsail. North is pricier, but, IMHO, is
better quality.
That being said, your best bet is whichever is local. There's a UK loft on City
Island. They'll come out to my boat, measure, recut, and maintain -- great
support nearby. My next sail will be a U
Hans-Erik,
You may also want to try contacting the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes at
Kingston which holds the C&C Collection within its archives. The museum has
a vast collection of a large number of C&C drawings which may well
include the 32, If so, this would include the hull lines, sail plan,
Hans- Eric,
Welcome to the CnC group and congratulations on your new ownership of a
great boat. Take a look at Arpeggio1984.info which shows a number of
upgrades including deck layout and rigging that I have made since 2005 when
I purchased the boat. Look under Projects from years 2011 through 201
I'd say try and post some pictures. you never know what kind of layout may or
may not have been tried over the years by various owners.
When I moved up to the 33 from a 22, I had no idea what anything did... So I
went with what I knew from the smaller boat.
If your mast is still up then star
Check on the Harken site as it has diagrams of typical boat layouts
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hans-Erik
Andersen via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2015 11:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Diagram for deck
Mike,
On my 35/3 wityh a 1135 I am reefing at 15 knots and furling the jib down
to a 110 at 20 knots. The boat sails faster and higher if heel is no more
than 20 degrees.
I have a dacron Rolly Tasker 135 that I am happy with. I've never bought
sails from Bacon, but they sell both new dacron and
Hi Mike, I had Thurston sails in Bristol, RI build sails for my Viking 33. I
was very happy with the quality and the service. The price was really good too
as I got a 15 percent boat show discount.
I have no affiliation with Thurston or quantum. My choice to use them was
based on the price.
Hello Hans-Erik,
Welcome to the list and congratulations on your purchase. With the boat
being over 30 years old there is a good chance that it does not have the
original deck set up any more. I am a very serious club racer and have
changed the deck layout to reflect that need. As I also do
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