Tim, I have a 1987 35-3 thruhull#231 and my hooks have 2 3/8ths bolts thru the
hooks and mast, and there are no sleeves inside the mast. I presume some
earlier boats were made with single bolts and that was not enough.The nuts are
only snugged up so as to prevent any motion. So get out your lo
As I understand, this system is to keep the collar (and deck) from rising
due to the upward force of the halyard blocks which are attached to the
collar. Without them the collar is free to slide up the mast.
Is there a way to pass a bolt(s) through the collar and mast to keep the
collar from risi
Sent from my iPad
> On Feb 3, 2015, at 7:32 PM, D Harben via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> On my CC29-1 A4 I had a crank handle...
>
> but the standard install restricted the swing to about 1/2 turn ...
>
> so I decided to give the handle away and keep my hands and arms in one
> piece...
>
> Don
Tim,
This sounds like a very peculiar problem. I have had no issues with my hooks
moving. One solution might be to weld some aluminum washers over the elongated
holes to provide more area to support the load. A Gucci solution would be to
have some nice stainless steel tie rods that connec
Scroll to the bottom of this page:
http://www.hollandmarine.com/CCfolder/CC001.html
Ken H.
On 3 February 2015 at 19:42, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Does anyone have a photo or good drawing of the northern star on the ends
> of the C&C cove stripe?
>
>
>
>
On my CC29-1 A4 I had a crank handle...
but the standard install restricted the swing to about 1/2 turn ...
so I decided to give the handle away and keep my hands and arms in one piece...
Don
> On Feb 3, 2015, at 11:34 AM, Kirkpatrick, Jay via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Today's discussion abou
Drove by today. 10 inches wet then frozen crap has frame bowed. Have to clean
it off tomorrow so can prepare for more of same Thursday
From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of David Knecht via
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Feb
Brian,
This sounds like the plan as the holes are pretty chewed up (there were
bolt threads in contact with the mast wall unlike Rick's setup). I like
Rick's option too, so maybe a "belt and braces" approach. I will need to
check the clearance at the partners with the wedges removed to ensure an
Dan;
You haven’t said where you sail, nor the reason that you want to put the
outboard bracket on the transom. As someone else said, there are problems
inherent in such an arrangement, depending on conditions where you sail.
My 25 came with a long shaft 10HP Honda on the back. The early 8
Does anyone have a photo or good drawing of the northern star on the ends of
the C&C cove stripe?
Many thanks
John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
http://www.avast.com
Tim;
Having the mast down twice over the last 12 years, and seeing how C&C did the
installation on my 38, it is hard to visualize how the holes in the mast would
get elongated. On my 38 the cross bolt through the mast is actually a long 3/8
diameter cap screw or shoulder bolt, so there are n
Hi Joel,
Re: Seat / ramp:
I tried to create something that is strong, yet light enough to carry, will
last, and be maintenance free, and has a permanent place aboard, yet looks OEM.
Made the frame from two wooden 2 x 10s, 81 inches long. The deck is 3/8"
expanded PVC. The white hose is from
Tim,
Have not seen your set up, but in a similar situation, the mainsheet bail on my
boom was creating larger holes and the rigger attached reinforcing plates to
the boom to take the load from the bail bolt. The plates are diamond shaped
and are attached to the boom with short screws / bolt
We are well ahead of you. We had 20” last week and another 18” yesterday.
Haven’t been to the boat yet, so fingers crossed. Dave
On Feb 3, 2015, at 2:38 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
wrote:
> 25 cm = 10 in.
>
> Normal covers should withstand 25 cm. However, I find that after each major
Tim,
You could always drill the holes for a larger bolt.
Doug Allardyce
"Bullet"
1985 C&C 35 MK III
Detroit
_/)~~~_/)
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Tim
Goodyear via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2
There was mention recently of 'hooks" that insert into the mast collar then
bolt to the mast to hold the deck down when running rigging is under
tension.
On my 35-3, the bolt through the mast has started to tear at the mast
column and elongate the holes. I could change the length of the "hooks"
a
25 cm = 10 in.
Normal covers should withstand 25 cm. However, I find that after each major
storm, it is best to shake the snow off the cover. when it is fresh it is easy.
If you wait a while, some of it always melts and becomes an unwieldy block of
ice. That can be hard to shake.
The bes
I've never tried (as my boat didn't
come with the crank handle) but my CS 30 Volvo 2002 also has a
hand crank option. I was advised that it wouldn't work easily ---
but having watched the YouTube series on the yacht Teleport that
sailed out of Halifax and through
Sorry. That should have been $483 + $12 shipping.
Alan
I had the same problem. I bought a new cone, and installed it, but still had
the same problem. Then I discovered that there was too much "play" in the
shifting. In other words, when I disconnected the shaft, I could move the
transmissi
Not sure hoe that translates to inches but I know the Gary Z designed cover
didn't last the 12 or so inches we got. I am so thankful for the engineers
on the list because I am surly nit one.
Good news is less than two months to spring !!!
On Feb 3, 2015 12:33 PM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List"
wrote:
Sorry, 25 cm.
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2015 1:32 PM
To: Kirkpatrick, Jay; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Boat Cover
I guess we now get to test the strength of my boat cover frame. Top Shop co
I guess we now get to test the strength of my boat cover frame. Top Shop cover
built for a C&C99. I wonder how much snow these are designed to have on them?
After a mess last night with 250cm or so of snow followed by ice we get more of
the same cr@p again on Thursday.
At least the skiing wil
Today's discussion about a electrical batter connections and starting
batteries reminded me that there is reference to a starting crank handle in my
Atomic4 manual. I used to have a staring crank with my old Land Rover that was
always entertaining to use, but surprisingly easy way to start the
I had the same problem. I bought a new cone, and installed it, but still had
the same problem. Then I discovered that there was too much "play" in the
shifting. In other words, when I disconnected the shaft, I could move the
transmission coupling forward and back, which allowed the cone to sli
I have that setup on my 27-5 and it works wonderfully. I have the
bracket model 71033. It has a nice long travel, and is rated for enough
weight for the Yamaha 4-stroke. My boat came from the factory with an
outboard. The 71033 allows the motor to be a couple inches out of the
water when the br
I previously posted about my Link Lite battery monitor, about which I am
really satisfied. Adding to my earlier comments, recalibration is a built in
process on the Link Pro and Link Lite.
When the monitor senses that the battery bank has been fully charged, the
display flashes "Synchronize". Y
This came up a few months ago. There were quite a few naysayers...for
various reasons.
On Feb 3, 2015 10:44 AM, "Dan Utinske via CnC-List"
wrote:
> I want to mount a Garelick bracket on my stearn to support a Yamaha 9.9 4
> stroke. I've seen at least on C&C 26' with an outboard; anyone have an
I want to mount a Garelick bracket on my stearn to support a Yamaha 9.9 4
stroke. I've seen at least on C&C 26' with an outboard; anyone have any
experience mounting and anything unusual that I can expect? Probably
better off having it done by a professional, any opinions?
Dan Utinske
C&C 26'
Very Cool -
A self-storing Med-Moor Ramp!
Bill Coleman
C&C 39
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2015 11:27 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Stus-List Helm seat / boarding ramp
To see my new wint
Hi Dave,
I had my transmission rebuilt two years ago. At $1,750 (including removal,
reinstallation, shipping and rebuild) it was not something to do without
some more troubleshooting. I had a 2-blade non-geared Martec on Mojito
that was terrible at opening when moving even after a rebuild (sound
Looks awesome,
I'm also curious on what you used to make it and what the non-skid is.
I hope you guys did not get hit too hard with the recent snow storms. My
buddy in Boston is getting buried..
Stay warm,
-Francois
1990 34+ ""Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia
From: Chuck S
To: "CNC boat
The best way to ensure you can always start the engine is to have a dedicated
starting battery that is directly connected to the starter motor solenoid and
serves no other purpose. Connecting to the house bank through a switch will
provide a means of emergency starting if the engine battery sudd
The specs and operating characteristics of the Echo-Charge are here:
http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Accessories/Auxiliary-Battery-Charger/Echo-charge-OwnerGuide%28445-0204-01-01%29.pdf
Rich Knowles
LF 38 in Halifax (For sale)
Nanaimo, BC
> On Feb 2, 2015, at 07:24, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Mark,
Just keep in mind that the voltage method is not very accurate...though
neither are the A-hr meters if they are not periodically recalibrated.
That being said, I believe that my method errors on the conservative side.
Just in case I do forget (or lose my shore power) I installed a Priority
He was quite keen. I'm surprised they can't haul her.
Rich Knowles
LF 38 in Halifax (For sale)
Nanaimo, BC
> On Feb 2, 2015, at 05:19, Hoyt, Mike wrote:
>
> Rich
>
> That is the marina where I sailed from 2001 thru June of last year. Is a
> shame since the LF38 would be great in the North
35 matches
Mail list logo
