Mark,

Just keep in mind that the voltage method is not very accurate...though
neither are the A-hr meters if they are not periodically recalibrated.
That being said, I believe that my method errors on the conservative side.

Just in case I do forget (or lose my shore power) I installed a Priority
Start device which will monitor battery voltage and then disconnect prior
to dropping below the requisite voltage to start the engine.  A low battery
and difficulty starting can also be assisted by decompressing the engine.

http://www.prioritystart.com/

Josh
On Feb 2, 2015 1:57 PM, "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Josh,
> Thanks for the info on using voltage to gauge battery level.
> With my tiny bank and very limited loads it does not make sense to be
> wiring in a monitor or Balmar Smart Gauge (to the tune of $360 cdn).  But I
> was thinking about adding a voltmeter so I could maintain some track on
> drain.
> Say something like
>
> http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Voltmeter-3-50-30-0V-Anti-reverse-Protection/dp/B00DUTJXWO/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1422902563&sr=1-8&keywords=voltage+meter&pebp=1422902722997&peasin=B00DUTJXWO
>
> I have to hook up and figure out how to mount my solar panel this spring,
> and I will re-wire my 1-2-off switch as per MaineSail's instructions.
> Rather than going to a "starting bank" and a "house bank" - I'll likely
> stick with A bank and B bank - use them interchangeably for starting and
> house.
>
> Mark
>
>
>
>
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>   - George Santayana
>
> On 2015-02-02 1:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
>
> What you are looking for is an amp-hour meter.  Discharging a flooded deep
> cycle battery rated at 100 Ahrs below 50% should be avoided.  This roughly
> equates to 50 Ahrs of use.  5amp for 10hours or 50 amps for 1 hour....you
> get the jist.  Discharging a flooded deep cycle below 50% will decrease its
> effective useful service life.  Many batteries publish a the number of
> cycles and depth of discharge.  One loose rating convention is that a deep
> cycle will survive 200 charge/discharge cycles of 50%.  The cycle number
> increases when the depth of discharge is reduced.
>
> When using a voltage meter, it is important to take a "no load" voltage
> after the battery has had time to "recover".  The easy way to remember a
> capacity to voltage conversion is 0.1v per 10%.  A fully charged battery
> will read 12.7v and a fully discharged one will read ~11.7v.  By this
> convention one should avoid voltage readings below 12.2v.  I have a total
> of 500Ahrs between 2 banks so when one gets to a "loaded" voltage of 12.2v
> I start considering a switch to the other battery.  I can go about 2 days
> in the middle of summer with no charging source before I start to worry.
> The engine charges at 100amps so motoring on and of the hook keeps me
> pretty well topped up.
>
> I put one of these in my first sailboat.  It is similar to the Link 2000
> that Edd suggested.  I have a Link 2000 installed on my current boat but it
> has never worked right.  I believe the current shunt is bad or somehow
> bypassed on the charge or discharge circuit.....I'll get to it...
>
>
> http://www.altestore.com/store/Meters-Communications-Site-Analysis/Meters-Battery-Monitors/Ammeters-Voltmeters-Battery-Monitors/Bogart-Engineering-TM-2025-A-F-TriMetric-Meter-Includes-fuse-and-fuse-holder/p10112/
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons,  MD
>  On Feb 2, 2015 8:27 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Looking at the wiring diagrams reminded me of a question I am sure this
>> list can answer.  I have not done much cruising yet, but plan to do more in
>> the future.  One of the things I am unsure of is how people monitor the
>> state of their batteries when you know shore power is not going to be
>> available.  I have a digital voltmeter on the panel that I can check the
>> batteries and a chart that translates voltage into percent charge and I
>> have used that as a rough guide, but that seems crude for such an important
>> function.  My understanding is that you have let the batteries sit for a
>> while if they have been charging to get an accurate reading.  I am not sure
>> if current draws also have to be off.   For instance, how would I know if
>> it is safe to run the refrigeration while sailing to the next destination?
>> Can you get a meter that gives you "hours of battery life remaining"?  What
>> strategies to listers use to solve this problem?  Thanks- Dave
>>
>>  Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>>
>>
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