The best way to ensure you can always start the engine is to have a dedicated 
starting battery that is directly connected to the starter motor solenoid and 
serves no other purpose. Connecting to the house bank through a switch will 
provide a means of emergency starting if the engine battery suddenly croaks, or 
you kill the house battery in a forgetful, over-served moment and need some 
emergency power from the engine start battery for the house load.  

Rich Knowles
LF 38 in Halifax (For sale)
Nanaimo, BC


> On Feb 3, 2015, at 03:10, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Mark,
> 
> Just keep in mind that the voltage method is not very accurate...though 
> neither are the A-hr meters if they are not periodically recalibrated.  That 
> being said, I believe that my method errors on the conservative side.
> 
> Just in case I do forget (or lose my shore power) I installed a Priority 
> Start device which will monitor battery voltage and then disconnect prior to 
> dropping below the requisite voltage to start the engine.  A low battery and 
> difficulty starting can also be assisted by decompressing the engine.
> 
> http://www.prioritystart.com/
> 
> Josh
> 
>> On Feb 2, 2015 1:57 PM, "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> Josh,
>> Thanks for the info on using voltage to gauge battery level.
>> With my tiny bank and very limited loads it does not make sense to be wiring 
>> in a monitor or Balmar Smart Gauge (to the tune of $360 cdn).  But I was 
>> thinking about adding a voltmeter so I could maintain some track on drain.
>> Say something like 
>> http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Voltmeter-3-50-30-0V-Anti-reverse-Protection/dp/B00DUTJXWO/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1422902563&sr=1-8&keywords=voltage+meter&pebp=1422902722997&peasin=B00DUTJXWO
>> 
>> I have to hook up and figure out how to mount my solar panel this spring, 
>> and I will re-wire my 1-2-off switch as per MaineSail's instructions.  
>> Rather than going to a "starting bank" and a "house bank" - I'll likely 
>> stick with A bank and B bank - use them interchangeably for starting and 
>> house.
>> 
>> Mark
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>>   - George Santayana
>> On 2015-02-02 1:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
>>> What you are looking for is an amp-hour meter.  Discharging a flooded deep 
>>> cycle battery rated at 100 Ahrs below 50% should be avoided.  This roughly 
>>> equates to 50 Ahrs of use.  5amp for 10hours or 50 amps for 1 hour....you 
>>> get the jist.  Discharging a flooded deep cycle below 50% will decrease its 
>>> effective useful service life.  Many batteries publish a the number of 
>>> cycles and depth of discharge.  One loose rating convention is that a deep 
>>> cycle will survive 200 charge/discharge cycles of 50%.  The cycle number 
>>> increases when the depth of discharge is reduced.
>>> 
>>> When using a voltage meter, it is important to take a "no load" voltage 
>>> after the battery has had time to "recover".  The easy way to remember a 
>>> capacity to voltage conversion is 0.1v per 10%.  A fully charged battery 
>>> will read 12.7v and a fully discharged one will read ~11.7v.  By this 
>>> convention one should avoid voltage readings below 12.2v.  I have a total 
>>> of 500Ahrs between 2 banks so when one gets to a "loaded" voltage of 12.2v 
>>> I start considering a switch to the other battery.  I can go about 2 days 
>>> in the middle of summer with no charging source before I start to worry.  
>>> The engine charges at 100amps so motoring on and of the hook keeps me 
>>> pretty well topped up.
>>> 
>>> I put one of these in my first sailboat.  It is similar to the Link 2000 
>>> that Edd suggested.  I have a Link 2000 installed on my current boat but it 
>>> has never worked right.  I believe the current shunt is bad or somehow 
>>> bypassed on the charge or discharge circuit.....I'll get to it...
>>> 
>>> http://www.altestore.com/store/Meters-Communications-Site-Analysis/Meters-Battery-Monitors/Ammeters-Voltmeters-Battery-Monitors/Bogart-Engineering-TM-2025-A-F-TriMetric-Meter-Includes-fuse-and-fuse-holder/p10112/
>>> 
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C&C 37+
>>> Solomons,  MD
>>>> On Feb 2, 2015 8:27 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" 
>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>> Looking at the wiring diagrams reminded me of a question I am sure this 
>>>> list can answer.  I have not done much cruising yet, but plan to do more 
>>>> in the future.  One of the things I am unsure of is how people monitor the 
>>>> state of their batteries when you know shore power is not going to be 
>>>> available.  I have a digital voltmeter on the panel that I can check the 
>>>> batteries and a chart that translates voltage into percent charge and I 
>>>> have used that as a rough guide, but that seems crude for such an 
>>>> important function.  My understanding is that you have let the batteries 
>>>> sit for a while if they have been charging to get an accurate reading.  I 
>>>> am not sure if current draws also have to be off.   For instance, how 
>>>> would I know if it is safe to run the refrigeration while sailing to the 
>>>> next destination?  Can you get a meter that gives you “hours of battery 
>>>> life remaining”?  What strategies to listers use to solve this problem?  
>>>> Thanks- Dave
>>>> 
>>>> Aries
>>>> 1990 C&C 34+
>>>> New London, CT
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
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>>> 
>>> 
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