My 2 cents ...
My father bought his first boat when I was 2 years old, with 6 years
I`ve owned my first Optimist dinghy followed by 470, Laser ect ect...
My kids started their life to sail and live during the summer on a
boat. Of cause they`ve got their Optimist dinghy in the age of 6 ... Now
The hull and deck of a CS36 is nice. The ports suck and make the whole boat
look "off", at least to me. I expect to see a machine gun sticking out of
one.
I much prefer the look of a C&C 36, although they don't sail as well. The
closest competitor was a C&C 37, according to one broker. Apparently
Mark:
For what it's worth, no matter what boat you buy, you will either have
to, or want to, do things to it that will cost money.
And if you prepared to walk away from this CS 30, you might risk trying
to lower the price.
Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2013/11/03 4:14 PM,
No specific experience with the CS brand but my understanding is that
they are as well constructed as C&C's. A club member wanted a larger
port in the head of his new CS 36...I saw the piece of 'deck' he cut
out.now that was impressive.
I'll bite..is a C&C 30 a prettier looking boat
I started skiing in my late 20's, started sailing in my early 30's and didn't
buy my boat until my late 30's.
I tell non-sailors that for me sailing is a lot like skiing: the environment is
what makes you go, but it's also the environment that poses the challenge; I'm
nowhere close to masterin
A couple years ago Practical Sailor had an article about the new 44's that were
being built for Annapolis. A sailboat built to mil-specs. It was a great
article.
http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/34_8/boatreview/Navy-44-MkII-Sailboat-Review_5651-1.html
I would have guessed boric acid but I am no chemist
John
Sent from my iPad
> On Nov 3, 2013, at 8:16 PM, Jim Watts wrote:
>
> "Chemically knowledgeable"...I'm not going there.
>
> Salt Away is available at most chandleries, although some may have to order
> it. West stocks it most places.
Great over ice too.
Rich
> On Nov 3, 2013, at 21:16, Jim Watts wrote:
>
> "Chemically knowledgeable"...I'm not going there.
>
> Salt Away is available at most chandleries, although some may have to order
> it. West stocks it most places.
>
> http://www.saltawayproducts.com/index.htm
>
>
"Chemically knowledgeable"...I'm not going there.
Salt Away is available at most chandleries, although some may have to order
it. West stocks it most places.
http://www.saltawayproducts.com/index.htm
I use it every year to run through my dinghy motor prior to winter storage.
It really does work,
Joel,
I think the primary ingredient of SaltAway is sulfamic acid. You can buy a
gallon of dilute sulfamic acid a a big box home improvement store for about $6.
Perhaps one of the more chemically knowledgeable listers can tell us if that's
a smart move.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandevill
Jim
What is Salt Away? Who sells it?
Joel
On Sunday, November 3, 2013, Jim Watts wrote:
> David, my spin pole ends were seized when I got the boat; one responded to
> fresh water and PB, the other didn't. I drilled the rivets out of the
> sticky one and removed it from the pole, then soaked it i
David, my spin pole ends were seized when I got the boat; one responded to
fresh water and PB, the other didn't. I drilled the rivets out of the
sticky one and removed it from the pole, then soaked it in a Salt Away
solution for a couple of weeks. After that, I gently tapped at the stuck
pin with a
I've done a variety of installation jobs on a number of CS boats. In general,
they all appeared to of good solid construction by a reputable builder similar
to C&C. Fit and finish were equivalent.
Rich
> On Nov 3, 2013, at 17:44, dwight veinot wrote:
>
> Haven't seen many posts about what C&
Mark,
Not a big deal to lay up a few layers of glass on those stringers. Contact me
off list and I'll tell you how to do it. If you're not comfortable, a yard can
do it few a few boat bucks.
Holding tank isn't a big deal, either. Lots of help for you here.
Sounds like a decent boat to me.
Haven't seen many posts about what C&C owners here on this list can say
about the CS brand...there has been considerable discussion on this list
about appearance (on the ,ooring for example) and how much that means to
C&C owners...how does the CS 30 rate in that regard with those willing to
say and
Mark, better tread lightly and leave the seller with a bit of dignity. He may
walk on you.
Rich
> On Nov 3, 2013, at 17:37, M Bod wrote:
>
> Rich,
> Thanks for the feedback. That's the same thought I had. Overall very pleased
> w boat - quality and quantity of sails was better than expected.
I don't think any of them made the reserve price. They were still between 16 to
25K before the auction ended.
Cheers,
Aaron R.
1979 30-MK1
Annapolis, MD
> On Nov 3, 2013, at 4:03 PM, "Joe Della Barba" wrote:
>
> Just talked to the guy that works on them. He says those boats are a hull and
> n
Rich,
Thanks for the feedback. That's the same thought I had. Overall very pleased w
boat - quality and quantity of sails was better than expected.
Sent the same email to CS owners list - replies suggest that its not a huge
deal.
I'd like seller to absorb part of the hit - but we'll see how th
Mark: if you have a reasonably good feeling about the boat, make the giant
plunge. The price is reasonable and, no matter what boat you buy, you will be
putting some money in to make it your boat.
Decision time, Sir! And you're the one who has to make it!
Rich
> On Nov 3, 2013, at 16:14, M B
Just talked to the guy that works on them. He says those boats are a hull
and need everything else.
Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.com
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve
Thomas
Sent: Saturday, November 02, 2013 10:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject:
I have a 34/36 and the pole that came with it measures 14'7" from "mouth to
mouth"(ie: where the line would sit when rigged). I presume it is OEM.
It was never used (by me or the PO) so now the fittings are seized and so
far have not responded to PB Blaster and other measures. Latest suggestion
David, before you rebuild the pump, see if leaving a gallon or two in the
system for a day or two will rid the joker valve of salt deposits.
Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
> On Nov 3, 2013, at 9:18 AM, "j...@svpaws.net" wrote:
>
> On the water issue it sounds like the joker valve is failing - included in
Just back from a few hours digging though the boat.
Sails look good. Better than expected.
Bottom looks good.
Rudder was stiff when I moved it by hand (after I loosened the brake) - wonder
if there is a grease nipple?
Deck and gear all look solid. Windows need to be replaced, couple of spid
How are you determining the list? If the waterline says she's listing is
the water line true? Does a level on the cockpit sole indicate a list? Is
your mast plumb side to side?
that said, an extra 200 pounds outboard would make a difference on my
35MKII whcih displaces about 13000 lbs on a 10'6"
Put a 200 pound person on the port rail, if it levels the boat, you have your
answer. If not, you have a bigger problem.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: j...@svpaws.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Sunday, November 03, 2013 10:26 AM
Subject: Stus-List Beneteau list on a ne
For the joker valve problem, try some Head Lube, from West Marine. It made mine
work again. For the vent, why not try disconnecting it from the top of the tank
and letting the tank breathe. Put rags around it if it has anything in it, but
you said you just had it pumped, so that shouldn't cause
The longer aluminium pole will be heavier and more difficult to handle and
it will add more clutter if you store it on deck.
_
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve
Thomas
Sent: November 3, 2013 10:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-Lis
Yes you can use it as is. If racing declare it and take the six second penalty (or cut it down). Also since spin is used measure it and declare. Not to declare oversized sails or spin pole is cheating. Using them and declaring them is notMike
Francois, if your not racing keep it long. You can get it out in front
reaching and away from main running. PHRF dings my 34r 3sec for a penalty pole.
No big deal to cut one end off and shorten it if needed latter. There plenty of
room to dip it if you jibe that way.
Ryan Raber
SCAPA 91' 34r
So in a near empty boat, my C&C 121 (40') has a pretty significant list to
starboard. The basic tanks are nicely placed to balance each other with the
exception of the holding tank which is pretty far to starboard. I assume that
would be offset by loading in the galley (port). The prior owner
Sometimes, people install vent lines on the top side of a tank instead of on
top. When the boat heels over with a full tank, and someone pumps, the vent
line gets clogged with sewage. When they continue to pump, leaks develop and
spill sewage into the bilge.
Don’t ask me how I know. It was ugly
If racing in a competitive fleet someone may object. Else, just go with it and
enjoy a great find.
John
Sent from my iPad
> On Nov 3, 2013, at 9:39 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard
> wrote:
>
> Hello All,
>
> I got lucky at my marina's flee market this summer and found a nice spinnaker
> f
In my experience, the most likely cause for a plugged vent line is spider
webs/nest or mud daubers having plugged the vent outlet. I work part time as
a dockmaster at our municipal docks - which is one of the few pump outs in
the area and sees a lot of traffic. We run into a lot of cases where the
If it's in good shape, buy the pole, remove an end fitting by either taking out
the screws or drilling out the rivets, cut 10" off the aluminum pole, drill the
pole for new screws or rivets and put it all back together. Easy!
Rich
> On Nov 3, 2013, at 10:39, Jean-Francois J Rivard wrote:
>
If you race, you will be assesed a penalty. I don't see a problem otherwise,
but reducing the pole length might be pretty easy
depending on how stuck the ends are.
Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Jean-Francois
Hello All,
I got lucky at my marina's flee market this summer and found a nice
spinnaker for a 100 bucks that's almost perfect for my boat. For some
reason a prior owner disposed of the spinnaker pole / car and I am in the
process of sourcing those. Not wanting to pay 1,600 - 1,800 for a cus
David,
A leaking joker valve may allow the bowl level to rise over time. If your
head is below the waterline, I suppose it's possible for some intake water
to seep through the pump, but I've never seen that happen. Since you have
closed the through hull, this is not the problem for you.
A
Joker valve, plus if your vent line is plugged you would be pressurizing
the holding tank when you pump into it.
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2013-11-03 10:08 AM, David Knecht wrote:
I have noticed that the water level in the bowl of my head tends to
increase over time. It is
On the water issue it sounds like the joker valve is failing - included in the
basic rebuild kit. The water is coming from what was left in the hoses.
Wouldn't worry about the thru hulls.
No idea on the vent - perhaps disconnect and run a smaller length of hose
through it?
John
Sent from
I have noticed that the water level in the bowl of my head tends to increase over time. It is not close to overfilling, but when I get to the boat is is several inches higher than when I left the boat and after pumping it out, over the course of a day on the water, it is higher at the end than the
Can't help on fuel consumption and you would probably do this anyway but
Make sure you have a jerry jug or two of spare fuel. Keep at least one as
emergency reserve - can't emphasize enough the importance of having a few
gallons of CLEAN fuel available. I entered Bermuda with hoses running
That sounds like one heck of a trip. I usually figure .75 gallon per hour.
Headwinds and rough seas, or pushing above cruising speed can increase that,
especially with a two blade prop. Adverse currents or anything that slows the
boat can also increase consumption. Our boat slows a lot when driv
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