Who cares who has the best boat. At the moment, I think I do, but that
is highly subjective.
I do have a question for Rob Ball, but it really doesn't matter. It has
to do which which hull mold was actually modified to make my boat.
It's summer. Everyone should be out sailing, and to put life
Blair,
There is an access panel in the ceiling of the very back of the aft berth.
Take those screws out and remove the panel. Mine also has an drain pan above
that. Once that is gone, you have a pretty good view of the cable and the
rudder post and you should be able to figure out what migh
Interesting. Hull number 100 (some of the internal documents in my build
file show my boat as 380047 with an extra 0, even though the HIN is 38047.)
I have been told that production of the 38 mk2 started around 090, and
around September of 1976. I would think that would make Delaney a 1977
model.
Our extra HIN is also under the port settee. You have to unscrew the
settee top to see the hidden HIN so you wouldn't find it unless you had
that part of the boat apart for some other reason (or knew where to look).
Ken H.
On 14 July 2013 20:30, Bill Bina wrote:
> By law, after 1972, it was o
By law, after 1972, it was on the upper starboard side of the transom
when the boat was built. If it is not there now, the boat may have had a
repair that obliterated it. As far as I know, C&C's have the HIN in
additional locations to allow for that. I found my HIN is also molded
into the liner
bject: Halifax-20130714-00110.jpg
Shaft gping through hull joint
Sent on the TELUS Mobility network with BlackBerry
<>___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Rick,
To throw some more confusion into the picture, My 1976 38 does not have any
marking on the transom, only the manufacturer plate in the cockpit, and the
serial number does not have any MIC letters, just numbers. It is stamped
with the number "380100-76". All of the paperwork that I have sh
List has been rather quiet today, so let me jump in. see if you have a
grease cup, or zerk on the rudder post. Either a few turns of the cup, or a
couple of squeezes w/ a grease gun, should really make a difference. Folks
seem to have their own choice of grease, but in my opinion, try to stick w
Somehow you should find a way to get access to the rudder tube. On earlier
models that meant crawling back through the cockpit
lockers, but on your model there should be some sort of access. You might have
to remove something. Anyway, the earlier versions
had a grease cup that you fill with grea
Hi,
I have a1988 C&C 30 MK II with edson pedestal and steering out of DYC in
dartmouth NS.
The steering of Incognito has developed a major sqeak when turning the wheel
and it is stiff to turn. This Problem was first noticed when the wheel seemed
stiffer than usual after launch. Then it
Mr Farrar,
I have a set of internal mast track cars that might work for you. They came
from my 1986 C&C 35 Mk-III. They are in great shape and were used with my
previous mainsail. Let me know if you’re interested in more information.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III
Midnight
11 matches
Mail list logo
