Try pulling the accelerator board out of the PDS slot ... I've seen a lot
of accelerator boards go bad over time but when removed, the underlying Mac
is actually okay ... You should just be able to yank the board; it's all
plug-n-play for the most part.
There should be Macintosh ROMs on the mother
On 10/27/2015 09:18 PM, Al Kossow wrote:
here is a mirror of the tech note that describes the pinouts and sense codes
https://web.archive.org/web/20040222182709/http://developer.apple.com/technotes/hw/hw_30.html
The RBV ASIC in the SI only knows about the original 8 sense codes.
I just got i
On 10/27/15 7:10 PM, Jules Richardson wrote:
On 10/27/2015 08:36 PM, Al Kossow wrote:
On 10/26/15 8:30 PM, Jules Richardson wrote:
I've got a system here which makes encouraging startup noises, but isn't
outputting any video to a VGA screen (adapter cable OK with my other Macs).
The si an
Here are some of my photos from VCF-Berlin - http://tinyurl.com/vcfb-2015 .
More narrative is at the Vintage Computer Forum - http://tinyurl.com/vcfb-vcfd
. Enjoy - I certainly did!
Jack
On 10/27/2015 08:36 PM, Al Kossow wrote:
On 10/26/15 8:30 PM, Jules Richardson wrote:
I've got a system here which makes encouraging startup noises, but isn't
outputting any video to a VGA screen (adapter cable OK with my other Macs).
The si and cx/ci are old enough that it doesn't support
All,
Also while cleaning I found a box of HP Vectra docs & a couple disks.
Docs:
Getting Started With the HP BASIC Controller
HP 24540B & HP 24541B - Installation Guide
35743 HP Enhanced Graphics Display Installation Guide
HP Enhanced Graphics Adapter User's Manual
Disks:
VECTRA PC UTILITIES A
On 10/26/15 8:30 PM, Jules Richardson wrote:
I've got a system here which makes encouraging startup noises, but isn't
outputting any video to a VGA screen (adapter cable OK with my other Macs).
The si and cx/ci are old enough that it doesn't support VGA timing.
Hi All,
I ran across the following while cleaning:
A set of "draft" manuals for SCO Integra database software. It looks to be a
complete manual set in 4 hardbound volumes.
Also in the pile are 4 sequentially labeled 5 1/4" floppy disks that have
"Dewitt" written on them. I don't have the resour
On 10/27/2015 07:27 PM, Al Kossow wrote:
On 10/27/15 4:42 PM, Jules Richardson wrote:
I don't know if
it's just some lowly service processor
nope, just the 68030.
Thanks, Al. I'm reasonably confident that it's alive and well, then, but
with no video output. Who knows, maybe someone plugg
On 10/27/15 4:42 PM, Jules Richardson wrote:
I don't know if
it's just some lowly service processor
nope, just the 68030.
On Tuesday (10/27/2015 at 03:30PM -0400), Peter Cetinski wrote:
>
> > On Oct 27, 2015, at 3:25 PM, Ethan Dicks wrote:
> >
> > On Tue, Oct 27, 2015 at 3:22 PM, Jarratt RMA
> > wrote:
> >>>Of course FRAGILE means something...FRAGILE (pronounced ‘Fra-gee-lee')
> >>> is
> >>> Italian for “majo
On 10/27/2015 12:54 AM, Sean Caron wrote:
AFAIK there's nothing special about the video on the IIsi ... pretty sure
that if the adapter and monitor will work with i.e. a standard Mac II
640x480x8 NuBus board (or equivalent) it should work with the IIsi.
Hmm, looks like this one has issues, then
On 10/27/2015 05:23 PM, Eric Christopherson wrote:
I'm curious: Does the static from the peanuts noticeably affect
electronics?
Have you ever had them cling to your arms or whatever? Yes,
definitely. That's why they have green and pink peanuts,
those are supposed to be anti-static.
Jon
Hi
Price will depend on the total quantity of each type.
A guess would be $120 for the 8/e and $130 for the /f or /m
Shipping included.
Rod
On 27/10/15 22:43, Adrian Stoness wrote:
curious about the price in general im working on a 8i thing but thats
totaly different
On Tue, Oct 27, 2015
curious about the price in general im working on a 8i thing but thats
totaly different
On Tue, Oct 27, 2015 at 5:12 PM, rod wrote:
> An 8em ? Is that an PDP8/e or PDP8/m or both?
>
>
>
> On 27/10/15 20:08, Adrian Stoness wrote:
>
>> For a 8 e m
>> On Oct 27, 2015 1:21 AM, "rod" wrote:
>>
>> H A
On Oct 27, 2015 3:59 PM, "Noel Chiappa" wrote:
>
> > From: Guy Sotomayor
>
> > Peanuts do *nothing* .. The heavy item will "settle" and have
nothing
> > surrounding it. The peanuts act a fluid during shipping.
>
> I can attest to this. I bought a largish disk drive, and it was shipped
An 8em ? Is that an PDP8/e or PDP8/m or both?
On 27/10/15 20:08, Adrian Stoness wrote:
For a 8 e m
On Oct 27, 2015 1:21 AM, "rod" wrote:
H Adrian
For the 11/70 ?
Rod
On 27/10/15 01:48, Adrian Stoness wrote:
how much?
On Mon, Oct 26, 2015 at 4:02 PM, Jörg Hoppe wrote:
Rob,
Here is a
> From: Ben Sinclair
> I'm trying to get my RLV11 working
Oh, I was going to mention this about the RLV11 - it's a Q18 device. So it
_probably_ won't work in a system with more than 256KB of memory (which you
don't, at this point, have, though). It would all depend on the OS, whether
it u
> From: Guy Sotomayor
> Peanuts do *nothing* .. The heavy item will "settle" and have nothing
> surrounding it. The peanuts act a fluid during shipping.
I can attest to this. I bought a largish disk drive, and it was shipped in
peanuts. It came out the box at 45 degrees to the sides -
Just to be pedantic, as this is the Internet after all :-), distilled
water is a pretty good insulator, but not a "perfect" one. Neutral
(pH 7.0) water always has a very small amount of the molecules
disassociated into H+ and OH- ions. However, as others have stated,
the effective value of the wa
I'm trying to get my RLV11 working to eventually run my RL02, and am
having some trouble.
I have a PDP-11/23 in an H9273 backplane. I just got it working
reliably without the RLV11 boards installed, so now I'm giving them a
try again.
Here's my configuration:
Down the left side: M8186, M8044, M8
For a 8 e m
On Oct 27, 2015 1:21 AM, "rod" wrote:
> H Adrian
>
> For the 11/70 ?
>
> Rod
>
>
> On 27/10/15 01:48, Adrian Stoness wrote:
>
>> how much?
>>
>> On Mon, Oct 26, 2015 at 4:02 PM, Jörg Hoppe wrote:
>>
>> Rob,
>>>
>>> Here is a high quality PDP-11/70 foto:
>>> ftp://jhoppe.ddns.net/blin
On 2015-Oct-25, at 8:29 AM, Jon Elson wrote:
> On 10/24/2015 08:54 PM, Mike Ross wrote:
>> For reasons too abstruse to explain in detail I'm on the lookout for
>> terminals that are, physically, really small - especially serial and
>> coax 3270, and possibly twinax 5250.
>>
>>
> I had a thing tha
>
> On 27 October 2015 at 19:30 Peter Cetinski wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Oct 27, 2015, at 3:25 PM, Ethan Dicks wrote:
> >
> > On Tue, Oct 27, 2015 at 3:22 PM, Jarratt RMA
> > wrote:
> >>> Of course FRAGILE means something...FRAGILE (pronounced ‘Fra-gee-lee')
> >>> is
>
> On Oct 27, 2015, at 3:25 PM, Ethan Dicks wrote:
>
> On Tue, Oct 27, 2015 at 3:22 PM, Jarratt RMA
> wrote:
>>>Of course FRAGILE means something...FRAGILE (pronounced ‘Fra-gee-lee') is
>>> Italian for “major award”. :)
>>
>> I suspect I am missing a joke here, but "fragile" in Italian has
On Tue, Oct 27, 2015 at 3:22 PM, Jarratt RMA
wrote:
>> Of course FRAGILE means something...FRAGILE (pronounced ‘Fra-gee-lee') is
>> Italian for “major award”. :)
>
> I suspect I am missing a joke here, but "fragile" in Italian has exactly the
> same meaning as "fragile" in English. "Major awar
>
> On 27 October 2015 at 18:06 Peter Cetinski wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Oct 27, 2015, at 1:59 PM, tony duell
> wrote:
> >
> >> experience. An 'UP ARROW' means nothing, nor does 'FRAGILE'
> >
> > I thought 'Fragile' meant 'Use this package for playing American
> > Foot
OK Here's my two cents worth.
First put tape across the area.
Make sure it wont take the silk screen printing off.
Get a small drill. A 1mm PCB drill is a good choice.
Drill through with the drill set to a fast but not too fast speed.
Turn the work over and re-clamp it. open up the hole but don
On 10/27/2015 10:58 AM, Guy Sotomayor wrote:
Another alternative that I’ve used prior to expanding foam packages
is to use foam padding. Again you want to fill up *all* the space so
that the item can’t move.
I like to use extruded polystyrene insulation panels. Here it's
available from most
> On Oct 27, 2015, at 1:59 PM, tony duell wrote:
>
>> experience. An 'UP ARROW' means nothing, nor does 'FRAGILE'
>
> I thought 'Fragile' meant 'Use this package for playing American Football'
>
> This it not a new problem, it probably pre-dates the ASR33. Flanders and Swann
> (think of them
On 10/27/2015 10:52 AM, Jon Elson wrote:
You CAN use an end mill in a drill press if you are careful. You get
no self-centering, so the work must be **SECURELY** clamped, as the
cutter may try to walk. But, you'll get perfectly round, smooth
holes. Twist drills tend to wander and make triangul
> experience. An 'UP ARROW' means nothing, nor does 'FRAGILE'
I thought 'Fragile' meant 'Use this package for playing American Football'
This it not a new problem, it probably pre-dates the ASR33. Flanders and Swann
(think of them as being the British equivalent of Tom Lehrer) said
The new way
> On Oct 27, 2015, at 10:34 AM, Randy Dawson wrote:
>
>
>
> If anybody ships a TTY, I recommend this: Make the box a, 3x, 4x TTY sized
> double wall cardboard box, filled with peanuts, and the TTY nestled in the
> core of the surrounding peanut cushion. They are going to shake and drop i
On 10/27/2015 11:59 AM, Chuck Guzis wrote:
On 10/27/2015 09:33 AM, Jon Elson wrote:
The ultimate way to drill holes in Plexi is with an end
mill. It can
make a slight chipping when it punches through the back,
so you
either need a backstop material or lighten up the feed a
bit just
before i
(pictures removed)
From: rdawso...@hotmail.com
To: greenk...@mailman.qth.net
Subject: The last fix for a "All Shook Up" 33
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2015 23:14:45 -0700
Wayne (ttyparts.com) and I had a disaster of a shipment on a ASR33, Fed Ex
Ground did us no favors.
In spite of a handcrafted woode
On 10/26/2015 7:58 PM, rod wrote:
H Adrian
For the 11/70 ?
Rod,
I'd be interested in the PDP 8/M and the PDP 8/E panels.
thanks
Jim
Rod
On 27/10/15 01:48, Adrian Stoness wrote:
how much?
On Mon, Oct 26, 2015 at 4:02 PM, Jörg Hoppe wrote:
Rob,
Here is a high quality PDP-11/70 foto:
> On Oct 27, 2015, at 12:33 PM, Jon Elson wrote:
>
> On 10/26/2015 11:38 PM, Chuck Guzis wrote:
>> On 10/26/2015 08:54 PM, wulfman wrote:
>>> To effectively drill in plastics you need to run the drill press on
>>> the highest speed you can and use a freshly sharpened drill bit.
>>
>> If this is
On 10/27/2015 09:33 AM, Jon Elson wrote:
The ultimate way to drill holes in Plexi is with an end mill. It can
make a slight chipping when it punches through the back, so you
either need a backstop material or lighten up the feed a bit just
before it goes through. (This of course requires a ce
On 10/26/2015 11:38 PM, Chuck Guzis wrote:
On 10/26/2015 08:54 PM, wulfman wrote:
To effectively drill in plastics you need to run the
drill press on
the highest speed you can and use a freshly sharpened
drill bit.
If this is Perspex/Plexiglas, I've had great results with
a good sharp Forstn
On 27 October 2015 at 13:33, tony duell wrote:
> By 'CRT' I assume you mean the evacuated glass thing. The term is alas also
> misused to mean 'monitor'
>
Indeed, the glass thing.
> Before you go to all that trouble, why do you think it has failed? In all
> my time of working
> on classic comp
On 2015-10-27 10:53 AM, Jerome H. Fine wrote:
>Paul Berger wrote:
>On 2015-10-26 11:38 AM, Jules Richardson wrote:
>On 10/24/2015 09:14 PM, Fred Cisin wrote:
Are we really running short of "720K" floppies?
I went around all the local places that I could think of a couple of
years ago and
>
> ROM problems aside does anyone know of a way I can test the actual CRT?
By 'CRT' I assume you mean the evacuated glass thing. The term is alas also
misused to mean 'monitor'
[...]
> Back when I was fixing my broken TRS80s I could use the CRT from a B&W TV,
> is there anything oddball about
Hi folks,
ROM problems aside does anyone know of a way I can test the actual CRT?
Last night I borrowed the screen from another PET just to see if I get a
garbage pattern from the board I'm repairing, but this one stays similarly
dark so I need to sanity check both of them.
Back when I was fixing
> > And my advice, sadly learnt and forgotten quite a few times, always after
> > drilling a critical part:
> >
> > CLAMP THE JOB DOWN!
> +1 on Steven's advice, having learned this lesson the hard-way.
I'll second (third? nth?) that!
I was once told that the majority
>Paul Berger wrote:
>On 2015-10-26 11:38 AM, Jules Richardson wrote:
>On 10/24/2015 09:14 PM, Fred Cisin wrote:
Are we really running short of "720K" floppies?
I went around all the local places that I could think of a couple of
years ago and bought up whatever stock of floppies that I co
There are special bits for plastics, and they work quite well. Regular
bits are troublesome on most plastics.
--
Will
On Tue, Oct 27, 2015 at 12:38 AM, Chuck Guzis wrote:
> On 10/26/2015 08:54 PM, wulfman wrote:
>>
>> To effectively drill in plastics you need to run the drill press on
>> the hig
> On 27 Oct 2015, at 5:59 PM, ste...@malikoff.com wrote:
> And my advice, sadly learnt and forgotten quite a few times, always after
> drilling a critical part:
>
> CLAMP THE JOB DOWN!
+1 on Steven's advice, having learned this lesson the hard-way.
Hi
Yes clamp it down. I have a pillar drill and that has a table that
the workpiece can be clamped to.
This means they are at right angles to each other. So the drill bit
works as designed.
Sharpen or replace drill bits if they get worn.
Next start small and work up in drill size. There are
did you replace the caps on the motherboard. those machines are in the
suspect zone, like the IIci, IIcx and the like. On most of them the
aluminium caps have gone bad and are leaking on the board, inflicting
all kinds of damage.
simon
On 27-10-15 06:54, Sean Caron wrote:
AFAIK there's nothi
I recently got hands on what is supposed to be a Sun 4/260. INcluded are
about 150 QIC tapes or so.
I've gotten the fifty or so with labels scanned (labels on the tapes) so
far and will make up a list soon.
A lot of them have broken rubber bands, but the few that I could move by
hand moved
> On 10/26/2015 08:54 PM, wulfman wrote:
>> To effectively drill in plastics you need to run the drill press on
>> the highest speed you can and use a freshly sharpened drill bit.
>
> If this is Perspex/Plexiglas, I've had great results with a good sharp
> Forstner bit in my drill press at medium
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