Re: [RBW] Re: Differences between Sam Hillborne and A Homer Hilsen

[aeroperf]

Re-reading this a year or more later - I'm still looking for someone to 
post who rode both a Homer and a Sam extensively, and kept the Homer.
Anyone?

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[RBW] Re: A. Homer Hilsen fender clearance

[aeroperf]

My 2019 Homer fit Velo Orange Zeppelin 52 fenders no problem.
It had 559 brakes as well, but it was a 650b tire size.

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Re: [RBW] Favorite Floor Pump Head?

[aeroperf]

Second recommendation for the Silca 'Hiro' chuck.  Going strong after 8 
years.  $30 at Amazon.


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Re: [RBW] Favorite Floor Pump Head?

[aeroperf]

Patrick

The ‘Hiro’ chuck I have is a steel Presta chuck that screws onto a 
Schrader-thread pump head.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QMRQGEO/
Your Tanaka chuck looks like the same thing but looks like it can be 
installed directly into a pump hose using a clamp?
I got tired of screwing a Presta adapter on every time I wanted to fill a 
bicycle tire, so I got a small electric pump and installed this once.  In 
the rare case I want to pump up a Schrader, I can unscrew it.

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[RBW] Compliments

[aeroperf]

So one thing I’ve noticed - I mean REALLY noticed - about our Rivendell 
bikes is that they get compliments.

I ride the Silver Comet near Atlanta. 
 https://groups.google.com/g/bicycletouring/c/cFpcvUWqzkA
For 15 years I rode a Diamondback Approach, a decent hybrid bike (as they 
called those back in the ’90s).  I never heard a word from fellow riders.
Then in 2015 I got a Sam Hillborne.  Bog standard, as the Brits say - Sage 
Blue, cork grips.  I added some fenders and started seriously hitting the 
trail for exercise.

Suddenly folks are pulling up next to me (or going past), and saying “Nice 
bike!”  Now I’m 74 and banging along at about 11 mph, so it’s not tough to 
pull up next to me.  But this happens 2 - 3 times a year.  It surprises me.

A couple of nice ladies went on about the friction shifters and “a hard 
leather seat.  He’s hard core!”, before riding off on their carbon 
Cannondales.  A nice gentleman commented at length on the cork grips. 
 Maybe he was a fly fisherman?

It happened again yesterday when I stopped for water.  Two guys also 
stopped and were very complimentary about the Sam.  One asked to ride it 
(sure!) and came back grinning (“If I didn’t already have too many bikes…”)
It surprised my wife, too.  I built her up a Platypus last winter, and on 
her second ride she got a “Nice bike!” from someone.  She came home with 
smiles.

Does this happen to you when you ride your Rivendell?  Tell us about the 
compliments you get.

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Re: [RBW] Coaster Brakes for a Beachy Clem Build

[aeroperf]

Interesting discussion.

When we lived in Germany (2002-2003) I picked up a “Top City” “Sundance” 
bicycle for my wife to ride while shopping.
It has a 7-speed internally-geared rear hub with a rear coaster brake, a 
front V-brake, and a 7-speed grip shift.  The rear hub is 135mm wide.  
I thought this was some sort of strange beast - it has a flexing frame with 
shock and spring like what I believe the “soft tail” mountain bikes 
feature, but it is most definitely a shopping bike.  Racks, lights, basket 
on the front.
Maybe you can find a “replacement” rear hub, if this is what you’re looking 
for and we can identify the bicycle a little better.  We still have it. 


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[RBW] Re: New Bike Day—Retirement Bike

[aeroperf]

Excellent, excellent choice.
When I retired I also bought a Rivendell.  I’ve never regretted it. 
 Neither will you.
Love the mud flaps! Great choice! Enjoy! 

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[RBW] Re: Will Cliffhangers leave me hanging?

[aeroperf]

I’m with the others regarding the Marathons.  I’ve had trouble putting them 
on Atlas and Dyads, too.  I carry a couple of the plastic tire “irons”, but 
only when I have Marathons on.
To me, they also feel like I’m riding through mud.  But I wouldn’t have 
anything else for a tour.


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Re: [RBW] Goals for 2024 (will they be S.M.A.R.T. ?)

[aeroperf]

At 74, I bike a mile farther than the same month last year.  May in 2022 I 
did 200 miles, May in 2023 I did 201, May this year I’ll do 202, for 
example.  Since the goal depends on the weather, it works out to about 1350 
a year.  This keeps me (slowly) improving without killing myself. 
I mean, bicycling is supposed to be fun, right?

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[RBW] Re: If you plan to get a Roaduno..,

[aeroperf]

Whups.  My shopping bike is 130mm.  Looks like I'll have to fix it rather 
than cannibalize it for a Roaduno.

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Re: [RBW] Re: If you plan to get a Roaduno..,

[aeroperf]

My dislike with a coaster brake is that the rear tire wears out a lot more 
quickly than I expected.
You do have to disconnect the torque arm to remove the rear wheel, but 
that’s usually not a big deal.  Just remember the correct screwdriver.


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[RBW] Re: External bottom brackets for dummies?

[aeroperf]

And of course, the system reversed my photos versus their names.  1 - 
Soma.  2 - Homer.  3 - EV.

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[RBW] Re: External bottom brackets for dummies?

[aeroperf]

I’m going to stick with the spacers going as shown in the exploded view - 
spacers going between the cup and the BB shell.  
You’re absolutely right on the prep work.  Both bikes were chased, but the 
Soma was not faced… probably why it gets by with the spacer stack slightly 
smaller.

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[RBW] Re: External bottom brackets for dummies?

[aeroperf]

I wanted a “medium” touring bike, so I got an A Homer Hilsen frame.
I was also impressed with how the 24mm, eternal bearing, Hollowtech II 
drive system felt.  It was, to my feet, noticeably stiffer than the square 
taper BBs I had been using for years.

So, loath to screw up a Rivendell frame, I bought an ’82 Team Fuji from 
Craigslist, and used the rebuild of that to determine how to pull a square 
taper BB and put on the Hollowtech BBR60.  I also put on a few other 
goodies (Sora 3030 system,105 brakes, Velocity Road rear hub, re-laced the 
wheels) to learn how it all worked.

I learned that those spacers we’ve been referring to are fragile and don’t 
want to be between two moving parts.  Also that you put the drive side 
external cup on, then run the crank through, then screw on the non-drive 
side cup instead of trying to push the crank through a fully assembled BB 
(my LBS taught me that).  Also that putting on the crank, then measuring 
the chainline, then pulling off the crank to change the drive side spacers 
was an iterative process.

Then I built up the Homer with the MT800 BB and the Shimano FC-M590 triple 
crank.  It only took one iteration of spacers to get the chainline.  The 
MT800 worked perfectly on the 68mm BB shell.  I also - wanting to see if 
this stuff was interchangeable - pulled it all off at one point and tried a 
Token TK878EX BB. The Token was cheaper then, and came in AHH Blue.  It 
also worked perfectly.

The Homer was not my longed-for perfect tourer, so I passed it on for a 
Soma Saga.  But I kept the drive and BB.  The Saga also has a 68mm BB shell 
and 135mm rear spacing.  Only one iteration to get the spacers/chainline 
right, and they are a different config from the Homer, but it works great.

Other lessons learned - the 24mm bottom bracket is more fragile than a 
sealed square-taper BB (also more fragile than the good old 1/4 inch ball 
bearings in an un-sealed square-taper setup).  I ruined one 24mm BB before 
I asked my LBS and got a lesson in installation.  I also got told that the 
24mm BB has to be replaced more often just from use.  I haven’t killed one 
yet, but if your crank starts making a hissing sound, check the BB first.

Going back to Keith’s original post, a little asymmetry is the price paid 
for a correct chainline when your crank shaft is fixed length.  Spacers and 
assembly iterations are the price paid for a 24mm BB that is supposed to 
fit both 73mm and 68mm shells - it must be built for the bigger size.  Max, 
the MTN should work fine, for a few grams extra weight, and might last 
longer.  And, finally, if you hit a snag ask your LBS.  They've had to deal 
with this stuff for years.

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Re: [RBW] Brake cables and housing

[aeroperf]

Every 5000 miles the cables on my Sam get cleaned and lubed with Phils 
Tenacious Oil.

John Dewey - that is an outstanding photograph.

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[RBW] Re: Crankset/BB question

[aeroperf]

Then, if you do need to replace the bottom bracket, you’ll need a tool like 
this to snug up the new one.
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-BBT-22-Shimano-Cartridge/dp/B001A0AIAG/?th=1&psc=1

I took my Sam to the LBS to take the old one out.  The guys in Taiwan (or 
at Rivendell) must have hydraulic hands when they install the bottom 
bracket.  It was really in there.


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[RBW] Re: Using Your Rivendell Vs. Being Precious: A Spectrum

[aeroperf]

I had this discussion with my wife today, because she is about to join the 
Riv Sisters with a Platypus.  I ordered her frame yesterday.
The discussion turned to lights.  Add a front hub generator and a light, 
and now you’re talking over $4000 for the bike she wants.
$1750 for a frame, $400 for a set of wheels, $225 for the generator hub, 
add fenders, etc., and pretty soon you’re talking real money.

Then the discussion turned to “precious”.  Is she going to ride it to 
downtown Atlanta and lock it to a lamp pole?  
With my Sam, the question also arose.  Every 5 years I strip it to the bare 
frame and reassemble after cleaning and lubing everything.
So it looks like new and I have a bit of trepidation taking it to town and 
locking it to a bike rack.  But I still do it, Brooks B17 and all.

We each have decent, comfortable $800 bikes in addition to our Rivs.  Which 
do we ride?  How many locks do we take today?
It wouldn’t be so bad if you could get a replacement Riv.  But the 
shipments come in every other year (if that often).  So if yours is stolen 
and you want another…what, 55 Sam?  Wait two years and hope for a good 
lottery number?  Will it ride the same or have the chainstays grown again?  
Does my size now come with 650b wheels when everything else I have is 700c?

I ride the Sam almost every day because I live on a bike trail.  It never 
leaves my sight on those rides.
But when the discussion is “Let’s go shopping for groceries at Publix, lock 
the bike, spend a half hour shopping, and then come out and see if it’s 
still there”…well…
I’m not worried about beausage.  I’m worried about finding it gone.

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[RBW] Re: Using Your Rivendell Vs. Being Precious: A Spectrum

[aeroperf]

No spare bike in a box for me.  My second bike is fully built up so that if 
my Sam does come up lame or missing, I have something else immediately.  If 
I don’t get the Sam back, I can say “I once had a Rivendell, and it was a 
marvelous ride”.

I have an ’82 Team Fuji road bike that I got in ’86 and rode for many 
years.  I adjusted the bike to fit me, and the bike adjusted me to fit it. 
 It was a marvelous ride.  But eventually it became uncomfortable, 
especially after I got a couple of pins put in my back.  If I had a spare 
’82 Team Fuji in a box, it still wouldn’t ride as well as the original did 
40 years ago (or my Sam does today), because I’ve changed.

Likewise, my wife has ridden a KTM heavy touring bike for twenty years. 
 Now that we’re getting older, it doesn’t fit as well as it used to, and 
hence she wants a Platypus.  Another KTM frame in a box wouldn’t fix the 
uncomfortablilty [ok, that’s not a word but you get the gist].  Will she 
enjoy riding the Platypus, or think “I once had an aluminum KTM with full 
shocks, and it was a marvelous ride.”?

So, lots of things to consider.  Pam Murray might want to try a custom 
after wearing her Betty to powder.  Or maybe (Heresy!) a different brand. 
 Beware the “Cult of Riv”.  And record the geometry, not only from Riv’s 
site, but from places like BikeInsights which can give you stack and reach 
and trail.  Use that to get a spare now if you can have more than one bike.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Kickstand plates, what's up with that?

[aeroperf]

It is certainly not just Riv bikes.
My second bike is a Soma Saga Disc, which has the same geometry as my Sam 
but with a slightly lower top tube.
They even warn about the problem (first and last paragraphs):
https://www.somafab.com/archives/product/saga-disc-frame-set-2

I use Kai's solution on the Sam.  No hint of a problem yet.

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Re: [RBW] Who is getting a Platypus?

[aeroperf]

My wife’s Platypus frame arrived this morning. Woo hoo!
It was packed in fitted cardboard, with paper stock protecting the finish, 
and arrived in perfect “not prepped” condition.  Kudos!  Headset and 
seatpost were included in a box (with a Riv bandana!).

I have not a clue about proper brakes or brake levers.  Something silver, 
for Albatross bars.  Any suggestions?

She wants a front basket, and I have not a clue what would be appropriate 
(I ride a Sam with a rear rack).  And what front light works best, with 
said basket?

TL;DR
I had already collected the bars, Nitto NTC110DX stem, DeoreXT FD-781 front 
derailleur, DeoreXT RD-M772 rear derailleur, Sugino XD2 triple front drive, 
and bar end shifters.  I’m in the process of building up Velocity Dyad 
wheels with a SON front generator hub and a DeoreLX rear hub.

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Re: [RBW] Who is getting a Platypus?

[aeroperf]

Thanks, shoji.
My mind is still stuck in the side pull era of early Sams and Homers, so I 
need to get educated, and that helps.

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Re: [RBW] Who is getting a Platypus?

[aeroperf]

Thanks, Scott.  That helps a lot.
I’m going for Tektro linear pull V-brakes, but no decision on levers yet.
I like the adjustable pull on those levers, though.  I hadn’t run into that 
before.

I’m not trying to hijack this thread, but “Who is getting a Platypus”? 
implies “and how are you going to build it up?”

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[RBW] How are you building up your Platypus?

[aeroperf]

For those of us who have ordered a Platypus, and got a “raw” frame in a 
box, I’m interested in how people are building them up.  I’m also 
interested in how previous Platy people from the last batch (raw plus Riv 
builds) have built up theirs.

I’m coming at this from:  This build is for my wife, so it has to be 
absolutely functional but also “attractive” in the Riv way.  I’ve built up 
a Sam and a Homer, and enjoyed both builds, but the Platy is slightly 
different.  I also am doing the build along with someone who owns a bike 
store, and also just got his Platy frame, so maybe I can pass along another 
(LBS) point of view as we go.

I’ve seen some Platypus builds in the posts, Including “Peppermint Platy’s” 
build (I bow to Leah for being a class Platypus act).  Everybody does 
something a little different.  That’s the joy of this.

For example, my wife wants a headlight/taillight and a wicker front basket. 
 No decision on fenders.  What works?

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Re: [RBW] Who is getting a Platypus?

[aeroperf]

OK, I’ll start a new thread.  Alan - great photos.

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Re: [RBW] ISO: Missing Link wheel building book

[aeroperf]

Also this.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUqul03hbZ8

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Re: [RBW] Re: How are you building up your Platypus?

[aeroperf]

I’d probably better get my two cents in.

I’m working off a pile of parts that I’ve collected over the years.  That’s 
not necessarily the best way to approach a new build, but it will get 
something on the road.  And everybody has a pile of parts…somewhere…

I took the frame down to the LBS for the prep I couldn’t do myself.  They 
installed the stock headset, chased the bottom bracket shell, and aligned 
the rear derailleur hanger.  One thing that might help others is their 
comment that the bottom bracket shell wasn’t threaded far enough in (for a 
UN300x107), and so they had to run their thread taps in a little farther.

The wheels - I went with 650b (our Platy is a 50cm) Velocity Dyad 36s
Rear hub is a Deore LX FH-T660, front is a SON28 generator hub
For tires we’re using Schwalbe G-One Allrounds

The drive is a Deore XT FD-M781 front and Deore XT RD-m772 SGS for the rear
A Suguino XD2 46/36/26 crankset and Haimim “oil sheen” pedals complete the 
set
Brakes are Tektro 837 AL Silver, and the levers are Tektro RS360A

The cockpit is proving to be a slight problem.  We’re going with Albatross 
bars and Dura-Ace bar ends, but…
To get a good fit I’m going to assemble the whole set up with a Nitto 
NTC110 DX stem.  The 11cm reach is probably going to be a bit long, and I 
expect to have to get something shorter, but until I do we can’t put on 
cork grips.  So I’m using a handlebar tape wrap until she finds her reach.

Currently it is built up just enough to be rideable, while she finds a 
saddle that she REALLY likes (one of the big complaints of her old bike). 
 And there’s still a lot I need to do - light, basket, fenders - so no 
pictures yet.

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[RBW] Re: Last ride of 2022

[aeroperf]

Thursday it had finally warmed up enough here in Atlanta that I went for a 
pleasure ride (about 13 miles) on the Silver Comet Trail.

Besides the “Boy, am I out of shape” feeling, a 6-point buck jumped up next 
to me and start leaping along about 30 feet to my right.  We see a number 
of deer on the Comet, but usually from a distance and crossing the trail, 
not running parallel and close.  I remember thinking “I sure hope he 
doesn’t decide to join me - I would not survive” before he cut off and 
headed away from the trail.

It was an excellent way to close out the year, even if it did get my heart 
rate going a little faster than usual.

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[RBW] Re: WTB: unpunched/grooved cork grips

[aeroperf]

PM Sent

aeroperf

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[RBW] Re: Routine maintenance / habits / survey

[aeroperf]

I live near Atlanta and ride my 2014 Sam year round on city streets and 
rails-to-trails.
I'm not a "power rider",  just a continuous one.  I'm 74 and bang along at 
about 12 mph, doing about 1500 miles a year.  I was shocked when I actually 
wore out a chain.

It’s garaged, so I wash it with Zaino’s a couple of times a year or when it 
gets filthy from riding after a storm.  But I tinker constantly because, 
hey, it’s a hobby.  RocRide Epix, Phil Tenacious Oil, and Parks grease are 
my friends - if it looks like it needs lube, it gets lubed.  If I want to 
try a different cassette, set of bars, rack, bag, or rearview mirror, I 
just do it.  

In the winter I do a yearly "annual", tightening check on bolts, etc. in 
case my pre-ride checks missed something.  I rotate the tires - the rear 
really does wear out faster than the front - and check for tire problems. 
 At that time I also give it a thorough wash and a quick polish with show 
car polish, and Proofide the old Brooks.  I have all the Zaino polish/wash 
stuff because I used to own a Lotus 7.

I tear it down completely to a bare frame, fork and headset when it gets 
close to 5000 miles since the last teardown.  Grease every bolt, take apart 
and lube everything else.  So far, the Sam has had three teardowns and I 
have seen zero issues.  Having worked all my life with airplanes, I know 
that if you do a scheduled maintenance, like annually, and a major 
maintenance based on use, like miles or hours, mechanical things tend to 
last forever.

I only let a shop work on it if there is a tool I lack and it is cheaper 
than buying the tool.  If it ever needs anti-rust, they can do that, too.

But like a lot of folks I have more than one bike.  So there is always 
something that may need doing.  I also bought a bunch of Sigma bike 
computers when I started this hobby to keep track of mileage, etc.  Sigma 
has a pretty good computer app, and I download the data after every ride, 
so tracking is easy.

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[RBW] Re: Headset adjustment

[aeroperf]

I was going to suggest checking for a loose headset, but It is obviously 
the stem, and Garth is right on.

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Re: [RBW] Re: "A Steamy Lug Affair" by Grant Petersen

[aeroperf]

I keep thinking it might be easier now (2023) to do a lugged frame than it 
was 10 years ago because…
You can design the frame with a CAD program, design the lugs with the same 
program, and print the lugs using a 3-D printer.  If you don’t print the 
steel lugs themselves, you can use the 3-D printer to print a wax lug, 
which you can then cast in steel.
Suddenly, everything fits.  The lug fits the geometry of the tubing.  If 
you make a bigger or smaller frame, it won’t be “we only have lugs for a 
55Cm, but this is a 60Cm”, because the printer can just print the correct 
lug.

Having spent 45 years working in aviation, I know that the skills required  
to weld/braze thin walled steel tubing are every bit as demanding as 
brazing on a lug.  And the CAD tools today are outstanding.

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[RBW] Re: Recommendations on a budget 700c wheelset?

[aeroperf]

Do they have to be new?
Find a good used late-90s hybrid at your LBS or on Craigslist.  You can 
probably find one for less than $200.
But it.  Take the wheels.

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[RBW] Re: Recommendations on a budget 700c wheelset?

[aeroperf]

Ack.  "Buy it".

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[RBW] Re: WTB/ISO New or Used Shimano Deore XT rear derailleur

[aeroperf]

Why not both?  You can still get a Shimano M591 new, though it is an older 
design, that works well with a 34-tooth cassette.  This is a solid, 
reliable design that Rivendell used to ship on their builds.  It is Deore, 
but not XT.  
A Deore XT equivalent like the M772 (also older design) is rated for 43 
teeth on the cassette, but I found mine a little more fiddly to set up than 
the M591.
Those are both 9-speed.  You can still get them both new.  I’d say go the 
route of a new derailleur of an older (proven) design.

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Re: [RBW] WTB 650B Dynamo Wheel & Question About Alex Rims

[aeroperf]

Do it yourself!  Have your LBS order a matching dynamo and the required 
spokes (and the correct spoke wrench) and have at it with a little help 
from YouTube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUqul03hbZ8

Then take it back to your LBS and have them tighten and true it for $20.

It only takes an evening, and nothing beats rolling on a wheel or set of 
wheels that YOU laced.

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[RBW] Re: Hub recommendations for Velocity Cliffhangers

[aeroperf]

I like the Deore LX trekking equipment.  A rear hub would be FH-T670.
Quiet and bulletproof.  I’ve laced them to Velocity Atlas and Velocity 
Dyads.
For a front hub, I tend to use Shimano 105s because they are reliable and 
reasonably cheap.

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Re: [RBW] Best Rivendell for pavement riding

[aeroperf]

A Sam with 42mm tires at 55 psi.  Pure bliss on pavement.

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[RBW] Strange Question - Asymmetric Pedals

[aeroperf]

In June 2022 we did a tour down the Canal du Midi in southern France.  In 
June 2022 it was 105 degrees in the shade in southern France - fires 
breaking out everywhere - but we had already paid, so we went.
Long story short, I got heatstroke and something called compartment 
syndrome, which resulted in an 18 day stay in a hospital in Carcassonne.

What’s my point?  I now pedal with the ball of my foot on the right side, 
and closer to the arch of my foot on the left.  So, since I have 170mm 
pedal arms… my right foot is happy but my left foot wants something a 
little shorter; maybe 165 or 167.5.

Has anybody else here felt the need, or maybe used, asymmetric pedals - 
shorter on one side than the other?  Is there a problem inherent with this 
(other than hassle of buying a new crank arm)?  Is there some kind of 
out-of-balance load that will crack my bottom bracket shell or some such?

Before I go off and buy a shorter Suguino XD2 crank arm, I just wondered if 
there are others who have had/solved a similar problem.  

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[RBW] Re: Soliciting opinions: help me pick the right Rivendell

[aeroperf]

Get a Sam with a 3x9 drive.
Strong enough to do the riding you want, versatile enough for errands and 
light touring, and very comfortable.

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[RBW] Re: 54.5 Homer: 700c or 650b?

[aeroperf]

I would think it would be all about the tires.

If you have more than one bike, what are the wheel sizes of the others? 
 You might want to standardize so you can swap tires.  Or if you have 
specific tires in mind, what size do they come in?
While there are now a lot of options for 650b tires, there are still a lot 
more for 700c.  If you shred a tire out on a tour, it might be easier to 
find a 700c to press on with.

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[RBW] Re: 54.5 Homer: 700c or 650b?

[aeroperf]

All that considered, I’d say get the taller bike.
The folks at Riv do tend to put you on the tallest bike they think will 
clear your stand-over height.
The tiny bit extra chainstay length and wheelbase will add to the “Riv 
ride” feel.
And you won’t have so much seat post showing that you’ll think you've moved 
from a Salsa to a Brompton.

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[RBW] Re: Adventures in (Re) building my Saluki

[aeroperf]

Or get them all at once:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093SKS6XV/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2
Second bike tool I bought, after a good workstand.  They have saved me 
enormous amounts of frustration.

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Re: [RBW] DIY build or order complete?

[aeroperf]

I suggest you let Riv build up your first Rivendell.  You’ll get the full 
“Riv Ride” that way so you can see what that means, and all the parts will 
be working together from the get-go.

However, you’ll still need a few tools.  Specifically, a set of metric 
Allen wrenches, and a pedal wrench, plus a set of metric taps to chase the 
braze-ons if you decide to add fenders, rack, etc.  Unless you pick up the 
Sam at Rivendell itself, it will come semi-disassembled in a box and you’ll 
have to finish assembly, then install a seat, and your own pedals.
Also, I suggest you specify the tires when you order, or be prepared to 
swap the originals out - it might come with knobbies when you are going to 
do most of your riding on pavement, for example.  My Sam did.

I would absolutely not recommend a beginner attempt to install a bottom 
bracket or a headset on the first go.   

If you decide that you’d like to try bike wrenching, get a bike workstand 
and learn on your SECOND Rivendell.  Also get a good basic book like “Zinn 
& the art of Road Bike Maintenance” to see how it all goes together.

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[RBW] Re: Rim recommendations for easy tire changes

[aeroperf]

Velocity Atlas are also easy to change.
Sometimes it’s the tires, not the rim.  Schwalbe Marathon, I’m looking at 
you.

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[RBW] Re: spacing between chainrings

[aeroperf]

Typical spacing between chainrings is 5mm.
However, it is all about the chainline.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html



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[RBW] Re: A PSA From Gordon Ramsay

[aeroperf]

Purple potato indeed!
https://www.theguardian.com/food/article/2024/jun/16/gordon-ramsay-lucky-to-be-here-after-us-bike-crash





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Re: [RBW] Re: 55 cm Platypus on Amtrak

[aeroperf]

Now that you’re hooked, note that there is a Google group for Bicycle 
Touring.
Here’s one of mine: 
 https://groups.google.com/g/bicycletouring/c/cFpcvUWqzkA
I live near Atlanta, as does Rich S, so come ride our trail some time. 
 Amtrak goes to Atlanta, and we’d love to see Peppermint Platy on the Comet.

Then, if you’re looking for something a little farther afield, try this: 
https://groups.google.com/g/bicycletouring/c/j4AOeY-B-XM

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Re: [RBW] Re: Goals for 2024 (will they be S.M.A.R.T. ?)

[aeroperf]

Since 2016 my goal has generally been to do one more mile in a month than I 
did in that month the year before.
The real reason for this was to be reasonably healthy for an annual bike 
tour - Nantes to Brest Canal in Brittany, the Camino de Santiago across 
northern Spain - that kind of thing.

But getting old is not for sissies.  This year I turned 75, noticably 
slower, and my touring partner is down for a heart repair. 

So… 2024 New Goal:  Electrify my touring bike (a Soma Saga Disc) with a 
Tongsheng mid drive unit.  If that works, then the goal for 2025 will be to 
electrify my Sam Hillborne and ride the GAP.  Looking forward to that.

Has anybody admitted to doing an electric Sam?

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[RBW] Re: Front Derailleur Adjustment - Friction DT Shifters

[aeroperf]

“…often making minor adjustments…” kind of goes along with friction 
shifting, but if it seems excessive, check that the front derailleur cage 
is absolutely parallel to the big chain ring.  It only takes one chain jam 
to knock it askew.  Also that the outer stop of the front derailleur is 
adjusted as “in” as possible (towards the bike center) to *just* get a 
shift up to the big chain ring.

If nothing else works you can try using a 9-speed front derailleur.  It 
should have a slightly wider cage, giving you more rear gears before it 
starts to rub.  The downside is a little more shifter motion before you 
start to move the chain.

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[RBW] Re: Going from 2x9 to 3x9 - FD Selection

[aeroperf]

My Sam came as a 2x9 with 26/38 rings on a Suguino XD2 crank, and a Claris 
FD.
I went to 3x9 with 26/36/46 by replacing the bashguard.  The Claris FD was 
NOT capable of handling the 3x.
After trying a number of things and learning a lot about FDs and 
chainlines, I went to a Shimano Sora FD-3030 for the front.
It may be a “road” FD, but it works perfectly.
Good luck.

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[RBW] Re: Frame color!

[aeroperf]

My Sam came in Sage, and I like it.  I get compliments, so others think it 
is a good color as well.
But if I was doing a custom repaint I’d go for 1968 Camaro Rally Green.
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1968-chevrolet-camaro-32/
I used to paint my Nash Metropolitans this color.

It wouldn’t go well with red trim, but white or gold or black would 
highlight it well.


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[RBW] Re: What have you learned during the isolation?

[aeroperf]

Cobb and Paulding counties, GA, re-opened the Silver Comet Trail today.
I’ll avoid talking about the wisdom of re-opening Georgia, but re-opening 
the Comet was definitely interesting.

I suddenly understand the comments about trails being crowded.
Leah’s comment about “roving cattle” who “don’t understand bells” suddenly 
makes a LOT of sense.
There were a LOT of new bikers out.  People with new shiny bikes and no 
clue how to ride them - and that’s kind of OK because the more people that 
come out with bikes, even badly, the better chance of more bike trails.  
But… whew.

On the other hand, Atlanta is so bike-unfriendly on the roads… my chances 
of getting hit by a car on the roads dropped from 50% to 49% during the 
shelter-in-place.  I have some interesting new scars, and I’m glad the 
Comet is open again.
So what I learned is that, in Atlanta, ride on the paths/sidewalks, not on 
the roads, and appreciate the trails.

While the shelter-in-place was in effect, I’ve been building up a new bike 
with help from my LBS.  This week they told me to do it myself because they 
were getting swamped with building new orders.  This is a good thing, too, 
because If even a few percent stick with it, that, too, increases the user 
base.


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[RBW] Re: Causes for bike noises

[aeroperf]

Had a once-per-pedal-revolution click that went away for a few days every 
time I washed the bike.
I swapped chains, pulled off the cranks, checked the bottom bracket and 
shell, swapped seats…
It turned out to be a bad pedal.  I never did find out what that had to do 
with washing the bike.


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[RBW] Re: Admissions of Things You Ought to Have Known But Did Not: A Thread

[aeroperf]

I got a Schwinn when I was six.  We lived in a lovely town in northern New 
Jersey that was about 4x5 miles big.  I rode that bike all over that town.  
Thousands of miles.
When I was 14, I rode to a neighboring town which had a bike shop because I 
actually needed a new chain.
As I pulled up, the guy working there said “Have you considered raising the 
seat?”.  My response - “You can raise a bicycle seat?”  My first lesson in 
bicycle fit.

So now whenever I see folks pedaling on the Comet with their knees up into 
their chins, I think of that.  I don’t say it out loud, unless I know the 
person, but I think of it.

Pressure - With my bike I’m 220 pounds and I run 60 psi on 42mm tires.  
Just thought I’d throw that out to whomever is making up a spreadsheet of 
these pressures (and I know you’re out there).


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[RBW] Re: Admissions of Things You Ought to Have Known But Did Not: A Thread

[aeroperf]

Joe:

We all do that.


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[RBW] Re: WTB or trade - front downtube shifter

[aeroperf]

Kyle-

I may have what you need, but I have no idea what to charge/trade.  You’d 
get the entire L+R unit.

After 4 years riding my Sam I wanted to try a “real” road bike so I got a 
1982 Team Fuji, and started modernizing it.
The one thing I haven’t changed yet is the shifters.  I still have the 
Suntour BL downtube friction shifters with rubber covers, 2x6, but they are 
still on the bike.  See photo.  The right (rear) shifter will not shift 
more than a 7-speed Shimano.  So I’ve been riding it as a 3x7 for a while.

I already have a set of Dura Ace SL-BS77 bar ends but haven’t put them on 
yet, so I don’t need those…
I could use a cloth front handlebar bag for my Sam or Soma Saga.

PM me if this is what you had in mind.  

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[RBW] Re: Cameras for Biking

[aeroperf]

I use a Panasonic Lumix LX-3.  See my posts in “Just Pics from Your Good 
Ride Thread” for examples.
It has a very good Leica f2.0 lens and auto stabilization, thank goodness, 
because it is tough to take a good photo from a moving bike.
It only weighs 9.5 ounces.  I post process with the Panasonic correction 
application that takes out lens aberrations - pincushion, etc.
I carry it with the strap around my neck, shortened so it doesn’t swing 
into the handlebars.  Like Scott, I don’t use a lens cover on the ride.

My wife carries a Canon EOS Xsi DSLR with an EF-S 17-85 lens.  It weighs 2 
pounds 5 ounces and she has to stop and use both hands for a good shot - it 
is stabilized but too heavy for a one-hand shot.  That said, her photos are 
visibly better than mine.

I have not had great luck using a phone.  So it stays in the bag on the 
back of my bike, in case of emergency.

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[RBW] Re: Calaveras Loop (With my new Clem!)

[aeroperf]

Justin—

Up Calaveras to Felter, up Felter to Sierra, Up Sierra to Sierra Gunnwood 
Canyon Rd, then Alum Rock Falls Rd, and finally Mt. Hamilton Rd down into 
the valley.  I took Piedmont Rd back to Milpitas.

I only did this once, 30 years ago - it is a long day with a lot of 
verticality - but you get to see some really pretty sights on both sides of 
the hills.
I also admit that I called for a ride back up from Milpitas - my Mom lived 
on Felter Rd and my legs were shot.
Enjoy!

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[RBW] Re: Leather saddle recommendation for upright Sam H?

[aeroperf]

It’s not leather…

I had a “standard” Selle Anatomica saddle on my Sam.  It is not what you 
want.

But I replaced it with a Serfas RX Cruiser Bicycle Saddle – CR-RXL.  This 
is what you want.
I have a couple of pins in my back, and I ride a bicycle because riding 
lets me lean over a little, as opposed to walking.  
The CR-RXL put me in such an upright position that I had to raise my 
handlebars 2 inches.  It was comfortable on the seat bones, but… I finally 
had to give it away to save my back. 

If you really want an upright ride, or you want a really upright ride, try 
this one.


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[RBW] Re: Front derailleur help

[aeroperf]

My 2015 Sam came with a 9-speed cassette and a wide low 40/26 crank. The 
derailleur was a Shimano Claris FD-2400 B clamp-on.
I replaced it when I went to a 3-speed front crank, but is this what you’re 
looking for?  I still have it, but it was on the bike for 2 years.  So, not 
new.
https://bike.shimano.com/en-NZ/product/component/claris-2400/FD-2400-B.html


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[RBW] Re: Travel bikes

[aeroperf]

After living in Europe for years and then going over for tours for years, I 
got tired of rent-a-bikes.  For a while I used Nate in Oakland’s solution 
and shipped my Sam.  Finally I built up what I consider a perfect credit 
card touring bike, and based it over there.
So - a Soma Saga with Shimano T-6000 drive, 700c wheels/tires, and Tektro 
brakes.  All common parts over there.
I keep it with a friend, and if I don’t stop at their place first, have 
them ship it to an LBS wherever I tour.  You could also keep it at an LBS 
over there.

If budget is not a consideration, get a separate bike for cruising the 
Salish Sea.

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[RBW] Re: Velocity Dyads and 50mm Tires

[aeroperf]

Interesting.
I run a set of Velocity Dyads that I built up with Deore hubs.  For the 
last 3 years I’ve run Continental Speed Ride 42mm tires at 70 psi with zero 
problems.
I have lately knocked the pressure back to 55 psi for ride quality, but I 
have never given a thought to the rims failing for any reason.
Of course, 42s aren’t really “fatter tires”.

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[RBW] Re: Help! Chain/tire rub problem with my Susie build

[aeroperf]

You say it’s not square taper.  Is it Hollowtech II?  In that case, you may 
have a road bike BB/crank where a mountain BB/crank might be required.
Rivs tend to come with a 68mm bottom bracket shell (the road standard), but 
have a 135mm rear dropout width (an older mountain bike standard).  The 
chainline is not 45mm as specified for “road”, but 47.5mm.  So inner rings 
on a road crank tend to be close to the frame.  With square taper BB you 
buy a slightly wider bottom bracket.  With Hollowtech II you get a mountain 
BB and adjust the left/right position with shims.  The front cranks come in 
two specific widths, so you have to run a mountain crank with a mountain BB.

I ride a Sam, so I’m not familiar with the Suzie.  But with a derailleur 
shifting system, “chainline” is a flexible concept.  Try to find out the 
distance from the bike’s center to between gears 6 & 7 of your rear 
cluster, and adjust the front to that.

After that, rubbing means your tires may be too big.  Hope this helps.

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[RBW] Re: Problems with Nitto stems and bars?

[aeroperf]

Everybody probably already knows this, but a couple of notes on bolts & 
nuts.

Bolts are typically steel.  If they go into steel they are typically fine 
thread, but not always.  Sometimes using a taller nut and coarse thread is 
cheaper.
If they go into aluminum they are almost always coarse thread.  
For metric bolts, if they have a thread identifier they are typically fine 
thread.  No identifier means they are typically coarse thread.

For this exercise, if a Nitto stem requires a fine thread, the bolt would 
be a M8 1.0 x 23.  (8mm diameter, 1.0mm thread, 23mm length.) 
If a coarse thread was required - if, say, the triangular nut was aluminum 
- it would be a M8 x 23.  (8mm diameter, 1.25mm thread, 23mm length.)

So I trundle out to the garage and pull the bolt/nut from my standard Nitto 
110mm stem…  It came with a triangular nut, which is steel, and a fine 
thread M8 1.0 x 23 bolt (with a 1mm washer under the bolt head).
I look at my long Nitto 100mm stem.  Yes, I took it out of the pack just 
for this.  It came with a hex nut that is pretty close to the flat in the 
stem, and a 35mm long coarse thread bolt.  M8 x 35, also with a 1mm washer 
under the head.

But a note - there is something called a Japan Industrial Standard, or JIS.
Most metric M8 hex nuts are 13mm across the flats.  The M8 JIS hex nut is 
1mm smaller across the flat (12mm vs 13mm).
If a design was supposed to have a standard metric nut, and you got a JIS 
hex nut, it would be just a tad smaller than a standard nut and would be 
easier to rotate against the flat (Paul’s #4).
Out with the calipers again - the nut is 12mm across the flats.  But this 
design looks like it was JIS from the beginning (MY hex nut certainly 
doesn’t spin), so I have to go with Paul on this.  I think you just got a 
bad stem.

JIS is also used for other parts of a bicycle, like those derailleur 
stop-screws that don’t quite fit Phillips screwdrivers.

I don’t know if this helps at this point or is overcome by events, But if 
you just get a standard M8 coarse nut at Home Depot, it will eliminate the 
space between the nut and the shelf.

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[RBW] Re: Problems with Nitto stems and bars?

[aeroperf]

John—

No, I don’t think they substituted a JIS nut for a standard M8 nut in this 
particular unit.  That was my first thought but my nut is close enough to 
the “step” that it looks like the design is for the JIS 12mm.

My thought is more like #1 or #6 in Paul’s entry above, and your comment 
yesterday.
Say the hole is drilled a little off, or at a very tiny angle, or something 
like that.  You have to drill a hole a tiny bit oversized to account for 
manufacturing tolerance of the bolts, but just a little more and things can 
be off center.
There is also the fact that the step has a “draft” - it has a slight 
radius, at least on mine.  So the nut already may have an opportunity to 
misalign a little, and a very slightly misaligned or oversized hole would 
let it spin.
Finally, Leah’s photo indicates that the bolt/nut was slightly offset from 
the center of the hole.

We tend to think “It’s just a bicycle”, but it is really a collection of 
precision parts clamped in loose formation.
Sometimes a part has a bad day in the manufacturing process and sometimes 
the quality inspectors don’t catch that.

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[RBW] Re: Thoughts on Rivendell cork grips

[aeroperf]

I’ve had them for 5 years on my Sam with albatross bars.  For me, they are 
not too hard, and just the right size.  I really love them, and would hate 
to have to pull the bars or brake levers and destroy them.

I’ve asked three different fly fishermen what they put on the cork rod 
grips and they said either “fish guts” or “nothing”, so I’ve gone with 
“nothing”.  They’ve gotten a bit dirty and beat up in the 5 years, but I 
still get one or two compliments a year.

I suggest you get a set of the cheaper ones, made of shaped ground cork, 
and try them out before buying the Riv ones (made of stacked rings of 
cork).  End Zone or Dimension make some.  I've heard of ways to install 
them so you can get them off without destruction, but mine were glued.
If you like the feel, get the Riv ones, especially if you have bar-end 
shifters.

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[RBW] Re: Thoughts on Rivendell cork grips

[aeroperf]

If you do not glue them, or double-sided tape them, the will tend to rotate 
on the bar.  I have a second set on a different bike that I haven’t firmly 
attached yet, and I didn’t realize how much torque you tend to put on a 
grip in normal riding.

If you find another way to attach, let us know.

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[RBW] Re: Increasing Spring Tension - Rear Derailleur

[aeroperf]

Just so we know what we're talking about, here is the exploded view.
https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-RD-M580-2367.pdf
There is a spring that runs the body (2), and a spring that tensions the 
cage (9).
As a Mechanical Engineer, if I had two of these, I'd take one apart just on 
general principle.  :-)

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Re: [RBW] Sam sizing advice

[aeroperf]

I’m 5’ 9” (used to be 5’ 10”) and measured my PBH at 83.  I measured it 
again to be sure I was doing it right, then again a couple of weeks later.
Every bicycle I had from 1975 on was 700c.  There was no way I was going to 
go 650b.  I ordered a Sam in 2015, and Will set me up with a 55 Cm frame 
even though I did not mention my aversion to 650b.  The SOH of that frame 
was listed at 83.3.

My Sam felt just a little “tall” for me.  Sliding off the seat forward at a 
stop took some getting used to.  I did adapt, however, and now the Sam 
feels like it is part of me when I ride.

Last year I got a 51 Cm Homer (650b), to see if a smaller frame would be 
better.  It is MUCH too small.  Don’t do that.

So I’m with J L.  Call Riv, and believe what they set you up with.  If they 
try to set you up with a frame that takes 650b, and you don’t want 650b, 
buy something else.

As for another model similar to a Sam, look for a Soma Saga.  A Platypus is 
also listed as “a country bike”, but it feels nothing like a Sam, while the 
Saga does.  I do think a good used Sam from the 2014 - 2017 era would be a 
good fit, and the 54 Cm probably would, too.  If you slide off the seat, be 
sure to land on your toes.  ;-)

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[RBW] Re: Sam sizing advice

[aeroperf]

And under the “if I knew then what I know now” department…
It is really tough to buy a boutique bike without having ridden it.  If 
you’re going to pay >$3000 for a fully tricked-out Rivendell, or ~$1500 for 
a frame+fork, you want to get it right.  So…

Do you have a bike you ride or have ridden that you think really fits you?  
Try to find that bike on bikeinsights.com, then compare it to the Sams on 
the same site for stack and reach.  You can make an account that lets you 
modify the configuration - like bigger tires.
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5b8578f548f3a30004789b21,5d250fb4ff3c94001746ed6e,

Take the minimum Sam that has 700c wheels (say a 54) and put out a request 
on this list to test ride one.  “Anybody near (your address) have a 54 Sam 
I can try?”  You’ll get more offers than you think.  Live near Atlanta?  
Come and ride mine.

Find a Rivendell dealer, or ideally go to their store in Walnut Creek, and 
test ride everything you can.  You might find that a Sam isn’t quite what 
you want, but an AHH is.

And if you really want that 54 Sam, and your size is close, go get that 54 
Sam and modify it until it is your perfect bike.  Seat height, stem length, 
grips, pedals, bars, tires.  You can change the whole feel of the bike in a 
lot of different ways.  This method is expensive, but it does result in a 
good set of tools.

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[RBW] Re: 700c Wheel recommendations

[aeroperf]

I use Velocity Atlas wheels on my Sam, and they’ve been good with any tire 
size I’ve tried up through 50mm. I’m 200 lbs plus, so I use 36 spokes.  
They are possibly a bit of overkill for my typical 42mm tires, but they’ve 
been trouble free.
My touring bike has Velocity Dyads and they run fine with up to 42mm tires 
- I haven’t tried them with anything bigger, though they should fit 50mm.  
Also 36 spokes since they carry me plus 35 pounds for a loaded tour, and 
also trouble free.

Cliffhangers probably are overkill, because a heavier wheel makes it a 
little tougher to do the hills.  Over time this matters - like going 
tubeless.  Your riding style isn’t as important as the ability to handle a 
wider tire, however.  A 50 mm tire on an A23 would be squeezing it.  A 
Cliffhanger, Atlas or Dyad should handle it just fine.
My recommendation for your riding style and tire size would be the Atlas.  
Lighter weight than the Cliffhangers, and plenty strong.  They also come 
with eyelets to prevent cracking around the spoke holes.

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[RBW] Re: My recent "CO-GAP" 7-day trip

[aeroperf]

Was this route that they call The Great Allegheny Passage?
https://www.aarp.org/travel/vacation-ideas/outdoors/info-2021/rail-trails-for-biking.html
I’ve wanted to do that for a few years now.  I’ve thought about using my 
Sam, but the trail seemed more suited for my Soma Saga tourer.  How did the 
Sam hold up?  What tires?  Thanks for any further information!


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[RBW] Re: My recent "CO-GAP" 7-day trip

[aeroperf]

Sorry, I see that it is the Great Allegheny Passage.  I should have read 
more closely.
Thanks for your post!

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Re: [RBW] Parts Shortage Article

[aeroperf]

Some of it is a matter of manufacturing plant closures due to covid:
https://www.bicycleretailer.com/international/2021/06/10/shimano-forced-shut-malaysia-component-factory-latest-blow-supply-chain

Some of it is due to unprecedented demand - a new bicycle boom:
https://www.bbc.com/future/bespoke/made-on-earth/the-great-bicycle-boom-of-2020.html

And a lot is due to the general clog in transport:
https://www.npr.org/2021/06/21/1007938067/cargo-is-piling-up-everywhere-and-its-making-inflation-worse

It will all go back to “normal” eventually, but the normal will not be what 
it was before the pandemic.


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[RBW] Re: Comebacks for when people think your bikes cost too much

[aeroperf]

The only people who have ever asked the price were fellow bicyclists.  They 
usually preface the question with “Nice bike!”
I note that most ride carbon frames, and don’t bat an eye because their 
bikes typically cost more.
And I only think they asked because they recognize that it is a modern 
lugged steel bike.

It is an interesting point, however.  I’ve become well acquainted with the 
owner of an LBS, who has an RB-1.
His comment - “The boomers come in here and drop 2, 3, 4 grand on a bike.  
They want carbon.  They want Ultegra.  I’m glad to sell it to them, if I 
have it.”

Well-meaning loved ones know that I owned a Lotus 7 sports car for 30 
years.  “I sold the Lotus and bought a bike” would suffice.

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[RBW] Re: XD2 Rings and 9 Speed

[aeroperf]

My XD2 26/36/46 with a Deore XT RD-M591 derailleur, HG-400 9 speed 11-34 
cassette and KMC 9 speed chain has worked fine on my Sam for 5 years.
I ran it for a while in 10-speed mode by changing only the cassette and 
thumb shifter.  That worked well too.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv-ish Top Tube Protection

[aeroperf]

I use a leather steering wheel cover.  They come in different sizes and 
colors, lace on, and are cheap.

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Re: [RBW] Re: measured speed differences between road and touring bikes

[aeroperf]

Aaron - Yes, it was about the same amount of effort.  I wasn’t trying to 
match speeds, and didn’t.  I live on a rails-to-trails and know it pretty 
well, and I don’t match day to day on a given bike.  Some days are windier, 
some are hotter.  On the Sam I’ve done the same ride at 10.9 mph and 11.6 
mph over the years.  So I picked “the last 5 rides to the caboose” for all 
bikes and took an average.

John - The riding position, for me, is most uncomfortable on the road bike, 
because I just don’t bend that well anymore.  I ride the hoods, and very 
rarely try to ride the drops.  Also, since the photo, I’ve lowered the 
Soma’s Osprey bars 2 inches, because it was just too upright for comfort on 
a long trip.  So over the years my bikes are all trending towards the same 
rider position.

The Sam is my favorite - I spent three years trying different gearing and 
saddles and wearing it into shape.  So I’m surprised that the Fuji beat 
it.  115 psi tires versus 50 psi tires?  Anyway, keep those data points 
coming.

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Re: [RBW] Handlebar/Stem pouch for Wine

[aeroperf]

If you could use your top tube:
https://www.amazon.com/Repurposed-Bicycle-Handmade-Hide-Drink/dp/B015JMQIFO/
Otherwise you might strap on one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/TOURBON-Canvas-Leather-Bicycle-Carrier/dp/B07JVQW85W/

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Re: [RBW] Cold Weather Riding Gear

[aeroperf]

Don’t forget the “Sheldon Brown” solution to a cold head during winter 
riding - tape over the vents in your helmet with packaging tape.
Cheap, but effective.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Heterodoxy — reconciling RBW with the mainstream

[aeroperf]

Rivendell bikes are boutique bikes, like Prada sells boutique purses. 
 You’re paying a premium for the name.  You’re also getting lugs, and a 
comfortable ride.

My forever bike is my 2015 55 Sam.  I’ve had people call it a “Classic”. 
It’s not.  It’s new.  I’ve had people call it “Retro”.  It’s not.  It’s not 
“going back to” anything.
It’s a design that hasn’t changed since the ’90s or before.  1” threaded 
headset, square taper bottom bracket, rim brakes, no suspension.

That doesn’t make it bad.  The Rivendell ride, which is justly famous, is 
due to Grant’s design of the steel frame.  He does what he does, and we 
love the bikes because of it.
But everything is a compromise, and in return, if you buy into the Riv 
philosophy, you give up state-of-the-art.

Rivs *are* fringe bikes.  The mainstream has moved on in so many ways.
“Normal cycling is the mainstream”, so count the Rivendells you see on a 
daily basis, compared to Trek or Giant or Specialized or Cannonade or…
Dang few.  “Normal cycling” is TIG welded and running Hollowtech II drive 
trains with disc brakes.

For touring I use a Soma Saga Disc.  Still steel, but with disc brakes for 
those long downhills with 40 pounds of gear.
I love my Sam, with the lugs and the ride.  But it is a boutique bike.  A 
very comfortable, very pretty boutique bike.  It’s not supposed to be 
mainstream.

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[RBW] Re: Buzzy hubs, hipster or window rattling?

[aeroperf]

Came here looking for the:  “Unclip the playing cards from your chainstays” 
comment.
[badda bum!]

OK, I’m old.  But I can’t be the only one who did this as a kid...

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[RBW] Re: Cool Tools for Home Wrenchers

[aeroperf]

Um, machine screws tend to be fastened with a screwdriver, while bolts tend 
to have a nut and be fastened with a wrench.
This leaves open what to call a fastener that uses an allen wrench - most 
common is capscrew, but bolt is also used.

Real quick JIS explanation from a motorcycle guy:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VpqUhIZ-EJo

The VESSEL JIS +2 screwdriver is $10 from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TG8OTY/

When I discovered JIS and bought a JIS +2 screwdriver, adjusting 
derailleurs and B-screws became a WHOLE lot easier.
And, yes, there’s a dot on their heads - you just have to look close for it.

aero (mechanical engineer) perf

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[RBW] Re: How do you track mileage?

[aeroperf]

I use a Sigma BC 12.12 Bike Computer, wired, and read it into a spreadsheet 
with the Sigma DataCenter program.
I bought a bunch of them years ago and calibrate them for each bike on the 
trail I ride.

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[RBW] Re: Dealing with wind

[aeroperf]

As an aerodynamics/performance engineer who used to live in Wichita, KS (20 
mph is a gentle breeze)—with that setup I would:

Make sure that I had a saddle that would allow me to bend over - some 
saddles *force* you to ride bolt upright.
Bend over when I could, sticking my elbows out.  Lowering the bars just a 
little helps with this.
Wear a tight, finely woven top.  Nylon, not flannel.
Likewise wear Lycra.  Less drag than cargo pants.
Wear a helmet.  They actually do reduce drag over hats or just hair.  If 
you’re bald, skip this.
And if all else fails, shave your legs.  😁  Just kidding; the gain isn’t 
worth it.

I try to ride out into the wind when I’m fresher, ride home with the wind.
But, truthfully, the drag will always be there.  It’s a Vee-squared 
function.  The stuff above will help, but slowing down is just about the 
only thing that significantly reduces it.

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[RBW] Re: Riv asks: One bike forever, which one?

[aeroperf]

As Bill and George said.
My forever bike is a steel, double diamond frame with upright (non-drop) 
bars.  Since 1985 all my bikes have been of that design.
Specifically right now that need is filled by a 2014 Sam, but there have 
been others before, and may be others after.
When I can’t balance on two wheels any more, and if I still can ride, I’ll 
go to a recumbent trike.


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[RBW] Re: Production year of my Sam Hillborne?

[aeroperf]

Yes, that should be the production year.
My Sam Hillborne tag says “Serial M14052003 date 4/8/15”.  The frame was 
produced in 2014, and I purchased it in April 2015.

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[RBW] Re: Adding photos to Post

[aeroperf]

A couple of things to check that I have run into—

There are three dots at the bottom of both your second post and Garth’s 
post in this thread.
When you click on that, it expands and shows the post that you are 
“replying” to, even if you clicked “Reply all”.
All that is also included in your post.

So maybe you are “replying” to a post that is replying to a post…that each 
already have photos attached…and so, your message is too long even if it is 
only a couple of words.  All that other stuff goes along, and gets credited 
to your post.

Easiest way out of that is to put a couple of words or a sentence in your 
post window, and check for the three dots in your post window, and click 
them to expand, and then delete everything below your couple of words. 
 That should give you a clean post to work with.

Another thing I’ve found is that you can attach photos with the paperclip, 
and that seems to sometimes work better for me on larger photos than the 
in-line insertions.

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[RBW] Re: Loaded touring weight distribution

[aeroperf]

I ride a Soma Saga for heavy touring and a Rivendell Sam Hillborne for 
light touring.
During 2020 I did the kitty litter check - made up 5-pound bags of kitty 
litter to try riding with different weight distributions.

My Sam was very comfortable 10 pounds forward and 20 pounds aft.  More than 
that forward would make it feel a little squirrelly.  I could heap 30 
pounds on the back and it was uncomfortable, though not squirrelly.  This 
Sam is the 465 mm chainstay version.
The Soma Saga, like the LHT, it was designed straight up for heavier loads 
and actually feels more stable with a front load.  It easily took 20 pounds 
forward and still felt good.

The Atlantis is supposedly a better bike loaded than the Sam, but I have no 
advice as to how much.  I’m betting that, like the Sam, it would not feel 
as good loaded forward as the LHT.

So my advice is to find a friend with cats, get their preferred litter and 
some bags, and see what works for the Atlantis.

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[RBW] Re: Trouble posting help requested

[aeroperf]

https://groups.google.com/g/rbw-owners-bunch/c/KHm7pCW92IM

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Re: [RBW] Re: Piriformis - Help!

[aeroperf]

As one also with stenosis (and L2 - L4 fused), I found that bending over 
just a little bit was better than upright walking.  So…biking!  But I tried 
6 saddles on my Sam, and all of them hurt various places on my butt after a 
while.  Finally I got a Brooks B-17 carved.  After break-in and rolling 
down the edges of the carving with a light rasp, this saddle has been 
phenomenally comfortable.

On the other hand, I tried all 7 saddles on my road bike, and the Selle 
Anatomica Titanico X came out the clear winner, beating the Brooks by miles 
for long-term comfort.  Of course, that had to do with rider position.

What it taught me was that there ARE differences in seats, and you have to 
try a few to find out what is best for you on a specific bike.  If the B-17 
isn’t cutting it on that bike, I’d recommend trying the B-67.  It is wider, 
at least.

Another recommendation:  My LBS has a box full of saddles, and is willing 
to loan them out.  Want to try a Serfas RX-921V?  Here, give it back in a 
week.  So get friendly with your LBS.  

One thing that I could wish for…
There are mechanical “bikes” out there, being used for fitting, that change 
the seat height, seat setback from BB, handlebar height and “set fwd” from 
BB, etc.  Probably 8 different lengths/sizes can be dialed in, including 
the pedal arm length.  As far as I know, they are scarce and therefore 
being used currently for the Pros, to size their bikes.

I would pay someone $100/hour (the cost of only one good saddle) to set one 
of these up as my current bike and let me try various saddles in various 
positions.
It took 4 years of riding to find the right saddle for me for the Sam. 
 Maybe I could have done it in a couple of hours with one of these devices.

Perhaps your sports doc will write you a prescription to cut your costs to 
find/try one of these mechanical fitting machines.  Take a big bag of 
saddles to try.

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[RBW] Re: Your Road or Road-ish Riv Rubber Radius (tire width)

[aeroperf]

I’ve run Continental Speed Ride tires for 5 years.  I haven’t had a flat 
with them, though that's probably just luck.
They only come in one size - 622 x 42.  I run them on my Sam at 55 psi.  
They cost about $25.  The last set went over 5000 miles.
I tried the Schwalbe Marathon 622x37 at 65 psi for a year.  It was like 
riding through mud - they weigh a lot more than the Speed Rides, but if I 
were doing touring, they would be my choice.

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Sycip "singles bar"

[aeroperf]

I ride a modified Soma Osprey bar for light touring.  Some rise, just the 
right wrist position for me.  Modified by taking a centimeter off each end 
- the original is pretty wide.

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Re: [RBW] Doldrums

[aeroperf]

When I get a case of cycling burnout, I tend to find and read a book about 
touring.
“Signs of Life” by Stephen Fabes is a decent one, if you’re looking for a 
recommendation.
Pretty soon I’m itching to ride a tour again.

Or I check the internet for a new bicycle wrenching “skill” that I could 
learn.
I have 3 bicycles, but there’s always something that needs doing.  My 
touring bike is a 9x3 speed.  What would it take to make it a 10x3 speed?
The front wheel on my road bike needs new spokes.  How does one size the 
spokes and lace a “cross 3”?  OK, go do that.
Before too much time goes by, I’m ready to ride a measured course to see 
how 10x3 differs from 9x3, or whether the spokes are all properly seated.

And, of course, there’s nothing wrong with occasionally thinking “Low wind, 
good temperature?  Think I’ll go fly an RC airplane”.  Heresy, I know, but 
alternative hobbies are OK.

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Re: [RBW] YOUR BACK SHRINKING

[aeroperf]

Ouch.  Difference in reach - 25mm, not cm.
 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Your cyclist vs. motorist war/horror stories

[aeroperf]

My bike trail was closed for two weeks in April, 2020, so I rode 2 miles on 
the 45mph road to get to the next county where it was still open.
I stayed well to the right of the shoulder white line, but one day a 
passing driver came close enough to clip my rear-view mirror.  Handlebars 
went hard right, and I went over them - fortunately landing on a grassy 
berm.
I was uninjured (ok, one small new scar), and my Sam was fine, but the 
driver didn’t stop or even, as far as I could tell, look in his rear view 
mirror.
But by the amount of red paint embedded in my mirror mount, he’s probably 
still wondering who “keyed” his car.

The point - in addition to looking out for drivers who don’t think 
bicyclists should be sharing the road, you also have to look out for the 
oblivious drivers who don’t seem to be able to keep it between the lines.

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[RBW] Re: Homers and road touring

[aeroperf]

I would say loaded touring IS pushing the envelope for a Homer.  Better 
would be a Sam, best would probably be an Atlantis or Appaloosa.
I bought a Homer for not-so-loaded touring, and found it was not the bike 
for the job for me.

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[RBW] Re: Just Pics from Your Good Ride Thread

[aeroperf]

Hmmm.  First time I’ve had Google Groups tell me “Your message is too big”, 
and then randomize the photos.  Well, I tried to put them in-line, but at 
least they’re named so you can identify them.


On Tuesday, December 8, 2020 at 5:45:04 PM UTC-5 aeroperf wrote:

> Paul, I would like that instant teleporter of bikes and rider if you can 
> find one!
>
> Here are some more shots from a really “good ride”.  It was 2018, but 2020 
> has not been kind to international touring.
>
> I do about 1300 miles a year on the local bike trail, mostly on my Sam, to 
> prepare.  The Silver Comet is a lovely rails-to-trails bike trail, but 15 
> miles in one direction and 20 miles in the other does get a little 
> monotonous.  I think of it as commuting.  Here’s the view over the 
> handlebars.  The speedometer says zero because it is tough to get a good 
> shot from a moving bike so I stopped to take it.
>
> My wife must have been a frustrated travel agent in another life.  She 
> sets up these wonderful bilking tours to really little known places in 
> Europe, for cheap.  If people think that this fits the “Just pics from your 
> good ride”, I’ll add some from other places.  Otherwise, I may try to start 
> a touring thread.  But, dang, we all need to think that there may be some 
> good rides coming up in 2021!
>
> Here are a few more from the trip down the Adriatic in Apulia from 
> Polignano a Mare to Carovigno.  Never heard of those towns?  Neither had I.
>
> Here’s the bike.  Once I shipped the Sam over for a tour ($150 to Paris, 
> free on the trains), but most times we rent.  This is a rented electric 
> Atala with a Bosch drive system, hydraulic discs, Schwalbe Marathon tires, 
> and a Garmin nav system.  I bring my own Arkel panniers.  They 
> pre-programmed the route, handed us the Garmin, and said “Buon viaggio“.  
> Neither of us speak Italian, but we figured that one out and… off we go.
>
> The area around Alberobello is known for its “Trulli”.  These are drystone 
> houses with conical roofs.  The story goes that they were designed to be 
> taken apart just before the tax collector visited.  “House?  What house?  
> That’s just a pile of stones.”
>
> I mostly ride the Silver Comet, which is a rails-to-trails.  Here, they 
> have “Roman-aqueduct-to trails”.  One bike wide.  If you’re lucky.
>
> It is not always the landscapes.  Here’s a cafe we biked past, then turned 
> around and had a cup of coffee.  Can you spot the half-scale penny farthing 
> bike?
>
> We finished up back at Polignano a Mare, because that’s where the train to 
> Rome stopped.  A very photogenic town on the Adriatic.
>
> It appears to post the photos in reverse order?
>
> Anyway, everybody rides differently.  I'd love to hear about/see photos 
> from others who tour the Velo routes.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Best hat for sun protection while walking? -- Not too off-topic

[aeroperf]

This one works for me.
https://www.rei.com/product/827301/columbia-bora-bora-booney-ii-hat


On Tuesday, December 8, 2020 at 4:05:15 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> We've discussed hiking or walking shoes, walking as supplementary exercise 
> to cycling, and now --- hats. BTW, more walking, with attention to posture 
> and longer stride, seems to have helped the minor back injury a great deal 
> -- which obviously makes riding more comfortable -- so thanks for that.
>
> Even in December the afternoon sun is very strong here at 5K+ feet, and my 
> old straw cowboy hat, almost perfect when new, has stretched to the point 
> where it comes down over my ears.
>
> I want something with a wide brim, as light and ventilated as possible, 
> and with a more structured look, not a crush hat.
>
> I see all sorts of highly praised ones online; this and this and this, for 
> example:
>
> https://tinyurl.com/Dorfman-Pacific
>
> https://tinyurl.com/RedHead-Aussie
>
> https://tinyurl.com/Henschel-Aussie-Breezer
>
> I've not bought a new hat, except for cycling caps, since about 1997, so I 
> know next to nothing about them. 
>
> I don't mind paying $100 for something that is really better than what you 
> get for under $40, but the difference will have to be real.
>
> I hate baseball caps.
>
> Comments and suggestions?
>
> Thanks.
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 7 Speed to 9 Speed Conversion Question

[aeroperf]

Max cog size is listed as 28.
https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/si/SI-T-6B-000-00-ENG.pdf


On Friday, December 11, 2020 at 9:57:40 AM UTC-5 Brian Campbell wrote:

> Hi. 
>
> I am helping a friend with a Kestrel 200 sc that is currently set up with 
> 7-speed down tube shifters. It is a 7 speed Hyperglide cassette on a 105 
> level Shimano 105, FH-1055 rear hub and the rear spacing is 130mm.
>
> He wants to covert it to bar end shifters and provided me with a set of 9 
> speed, indexed Microshift bar end shifters.
>
> I am wondering if it is possible to to simply swap in a 9 speed cassette?
>
> Also, for anyone who might know, the rear derailleur in a 105, RD-1055 
> what is the max cog size for that the RD can handle? 26 or 28?
>
> Thanks!
>
>

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