[RBW] Re: Best sellers-worst sellers

2011-02-24 Thread Peter Pesce
Well, Dia-Compe is openly selling the silver shifters to other
vendors, so it's not like VO, Ben's or anyone are "stealing" them. I
don't see them claiming to have designed or commissioned them, either,
so I don't know what the problem is.
If Riv didn't have an exclusive deal, or it expired, than that was
part of the bargain they struck.
Tektro doesn't sell 556 brakes as "the brake Rivendell asked us to
make."
I think VO recently asked Dia-Compe to re-make one of their "grand
comp" centerpull brakes, and D-C agreed. When that brake shows up
elsewhere, I wouldn't expect it to be called the "VO brake" or the "D-
C brake commissioned by VO" or any other such thing.

I personally have never actually bought anything "made" by Rivendell -
my Sam, Sackville, Mark's rack and MUSA stuff was all made by other
companies, to Riv's spec. (Seems that a substantial part of the bike
industry works this way, and everyone seems OK with it.) Some stuff is
branded Rivendell or a Riv house brand, but the rack, for instance, is
branded Nitto and is available from many other vendors. Maybe custom
bikes are actually made there? I honestly don't know - never been to
Riv HQ and I'm not in the market for a custom.

I think it's great that more companies like Riv - VO, Soma, Herse, etc
are getting great bike parts made (or re-made). The more the merrier,
I say.

-Pete

On Feb 24, 3:11 pm, William  wrote:
> I've bought two of the five "best sellers" and none of the five "worst
> sellers".  The thing I found interesting was the Silver Shifter story,
> and that Riv shelled out the $9k for tooling.  Other retailers sell
> the Silver shifters, and all of them call them "Dia-Compe Silver
> shifters" with no mention of Rivendell.  Ben's Cycle sells them,
> doesn't mention Rivendell, and copies verbatim Velo-Orange's
> description of them.  I wonder if Riv gets a royalty when VO or Ben's
> sells a set of shifters, or if the $9k just gave them temporary
> exclusivity with Dia Compe which has since expired.  I have one set of
> Silvers, and a stockpile of the original Suntours.  It's a great
> shifter design, and despite what Chris at VO says, I'd run suntours or
> silvers over the Simplex/Mavic ones any day.

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[RBW] Re: Warning: non-scientific experiment under construction (650B vs 700C)

2011-02-25 Thread Peter Pesce
Very cool idea to have one bike that works for both sizes, and a
stroke of minor genius to think of up-sizing the 650B bike, rather
than down-sizing a 700. I was hoping I could convert my Sam to 650B,
just to see what all the fuss is about, but it only took a few
measurements to see that it wouldn't really work.

I am curious to see your test results, but can't see how they'd be in
any way meaningful - jut too many variables.

I can see how speed matters on a brevet, and to some degree on commute
(especially a 35-miler) but I, too, keep coming back to Grant's
question (paraphrased): "If we all like riding so much, why are we
always in such a hurry to get it over with as fast as possible?"

On Feb 25, 1:04 pm, William  wrote:
> OK so I made a sort of self-indulgent mod to my A. Homer Hilsen.  I
> set up the normally 650B bike with a 700C wheelset and short reach
> brakes.  It's a wheelset I already had, and a short-reach brakeset I
> already had.  So now I have a single bike that can easily be taken on
> a ride with 650Bx(whatever) tires one day, and taken on the same ride
> with 700x(23-28) tires the next, or whatever.
>
> I bought the bike because of the feel of 650B, and I'm thrilled with
> it.  Like most of you, I've been skeptical of the claims from Jan H
> and others that fat tires are faster.  That said, on brevets in the
> last couple of months, I've been surprised at how quickly I catch and
> pass riders on coasting descents when I'm on 650x38 at 50psi and they
> are on 700x23 and I presume 90-110psi.  That's anecdotal, and doesn't
> necessarily mean anything, but it was surprising.
>
> So, now I think it will be fun to do a pseudo-scientific spot
> comparison between 650B and 700C.  My commute to work is a 35-mile
> hilly ride through the east bay hills from El Cerrito to South
> Hayward.  A good chunk of that is a non-stop stretch.  I can usually
> get from my front door to a traffic signal in front of Castro Valley
> High School without stopping or putting my foot down.  The next 10
> times I do this commute, I'm going to alternate between the two
> wheelsets, and record my time for the same non-stop stretch for these
> ten rides.  The 650B tires will be hetres at 50/45psi, and the 700C
> tires will be continental gatorskin 28s at 85/80psi.
>
> Anyone care to guess which will seem faster?  Too close to call?
> Impossible to test unless the rider is blind to the wheel
> configuration?  Any advice on keeping the data clean?

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[RBW] Re: Warning: non-scientific experiment under construction (650B vs 700C)

2011-02-25 Thread Peter Pesce
William
Apologies. I didn't intent my tone to be dismissive or in any way
contentious.
I think it's an interesting experiment and tried to specifically cite
how speed could really matter in your brevet riding and commute. So I
understand it matters to you more than it may to me. I'm really not a
sensitive or experienced enough rider that I think I could tell much
difference between any two tires.
I also paraphrased Grant as much out of "bemusement" as anything else.
I'm sure he sweats the details ( though I'm not sure that sweating
details and fretting about speed are the same thing)
In any case, in look forward to the results, though I fear they will
only stoke my 650b curiosities further.
Pete

On Feb 25, 2:56 pm, William  wrote:
> Pete
>
> I'm a scientist and an engineer, by profession and by DNA.  I'm wired
> to be curious.  I'm wired to tinker and to question.  I'm not obsessed
> with increasing speed, nor am I obsessed to get the ride over with.
> On brevets, when you ride fat 650B tires, you'll get a number of
> people on 700c road bikes ask you "Why would you want to slow yourself
> down like that?"  They just assume that my 584x41s are absolute pigs.
> I've never been more comfortable on a performance bike than I am on my
> Hilsen with fat 584s.  At the end of a 10 hour day, my back, rear end,
> arms shoulders, hands and feet all feel great.  Once my legs catch up
> I have no doubts that my body could handle the longer events.  Having
> found a new plateau in comfort, now I want to test the assertion that
> my fat 650B tires are actually significantly FASTER than 700x28s.
> It's hard for me to believe it, so I need to see it for myself.  What
> I know is that my Hilsen feels much faster than my Hillborne, even
> though it has much fatter tires (650x41 vs 700x33).  That equation has
> too many variables for sure.
>
> It would be fascinating to me to find that the more comfortable tire
> choice is also the faster tire choice.  I don't know if that's what
> I'll find.  I expect that the data will be inconclusive, too close to
> call.  For sure I expect I'll continue using fat 650Bs for all my long
> distance events.  The comfort is way too much for me to pass up.  A
> lot of comfort is bike fit, though, and the 700x28 wheels won't change
> any of my fit points on the bike, so maybe I'll feel just as good.
> Who knows?  Curious folks like me think this way.
>
> Speaking of curious people being wired differently...If you really
> want to blow your mind, ask Grant what the perfect rim diameter is.
> He has an answer that he will defend emphatically and his perfect size
> rim has never been produced.  So, don't misconstrue Grant's 'enjoy the
> ride' rhetoric to suggest that Grant doesn't sweat the details on
> bikes.  He's one hundred times more technically nitpicky than me, and
> I think that's a very good thing, and one of the myriad reasons I like
> buying Rivendells.
>
> On Feb 25, 11:34 am, Peter Pesce  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Very cool idea to have one bike that works for both sizes, and a
> > stroke of minor genius to think of up-sizing the 650B bike, rather
> > than down-sizing a 700. I was hoping I could convert my Sam to 650B,
> > just to see what all the fuss is about, but it only took a few
> > measurements to see that it wouldn't really work.
>
> > I am curious to see your test results, but can't see how they'd be in
> > any way meaningful - jut too many variables.
>
> > I can see how speed matters on a brevet, and to some degree on commute
> > (especially a 35-miler) but I, too, keep coming back to Grant's
> > question (paraphrased): "If we all like riding so much, why are we
> > always in such a hurry to get it over with as fast as possible?"
>
> > On Feb 25, 1:04 pm, William  wrote:
>
> > > OK so I made a sort of self-indulgent mod to my A. Homer Hilsen.  I
> > > set up the normally 650B bike with a 700C wheelset and short reach
> > > brakes.  It's a wheelset I already had, and a short-reach brakeset I
> > > already had.  So now I have a single bike that can easily be taken on
> > > a ride with 650Bx(whatever) tires one day, and taken on the same ride
> > > with 700x(23-28) tires the next, or whatever.
>
> > > I bought the bike because of the feel of 650B, and I'm thrilled with
> > > it.  Like most of you, I've been skeptical of the claims from Jan H
> > > and others that fat tires are faster.  That said, on brevets in the
> > > last couple of months, I've been surprised at how quickly I catch and
> >

[RBW] Re: Lay-aways

2011-03-01 Thread Peter Pesce

Great idea!
Make it 70 months and I can afford that Custom!

Pete

On Mar 1, 1:43 pm, Pondero  wrote:
> http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news_post/335
>
> Okay, how many read this and immediately thought, "Hmmm(insert new
> bike dream here), 20% down would be...and remainder divided by 7
> equals..."?

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[RBW] Re: Were you "RIV" before you realized it?

2011-03-15 Thread Peter Pesce
Great story. I had nothing so classic - just a black nylon Eclipse bag 
hanging off the bars of my Schwinn LeTour. 

I agree with others - back then there was no such thing as "Riv-ish." In 
fact, back then there were few, if any, self-identified bike subcultures (at 
least on the east coast, in the pre-mountain bike era) and bikes were pretty 
much just bikes. Of course, there were beautiful Italian racing bikes to 
covet, but for the most part a suburban teenager in the late 70's just rode 
around for fun, occasionally pretending they were starring in their own 
version of "Breaking Away." :)

-Pete

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[RBW] Re: Tire size question... don't know where else to ask it.

2011-03-16 Thread Peter Pesce
I would say get the bike that is easiest to travel with, regardless of tire 
size, as that is the reason for your purchase to begin with. 
You will then be more likely to have a bike with you, with is better than 
having no bike with you, regardless of tire size.

Just my 2mm.

-Pete

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[RBW] Re: Repurpose old Wool?

2011-03-29 Thread Peter Pesce
Not exactly a solution, but I just stumbled across this process for 
repairing wool clothes:
http://www.woolfiller.com/
(No affiliation or commercial interest)
Seems like you could perhaps do the same thing with old clothing scraps.

I like the felting idea mentioned above.
You could make a pair of rain legs. Or even wool Splats!

-Pete

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Re: [RBW] cycle computer

2011-04-11 Thread Peter Pesce
I have a Knog Nerd, and found the "secondary" readout to be a bit small.
I also managed to lose the wireless sender when I took it off to wash my 
bike. (I know it's in the garage somewhere!)

For less than the cost of a new sender from Knog I was able to buy a Cateye 
Velo. Going wired also eliminated interference from LED lights.

Cateye Strada and Velo seem to have pretty good size for their secondary 
display.

The Velo also has the ability to move the Elapsed Time, Average Speed or 
Maximum
Speed to the upper/bigger display. Unfortunately, you can't move any of the 
distance functions.

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Re: [RBW] cycle computer

2011-04-11 Thread Peter Pesce
Yeah, the speed read-out is pretty cool. I thought I'd like the scrolling 
thing, but didn't really. It seemed whenever I looked at the display it was 
always between numbers, in mid-scroll, so I always had to look twice to see 
how fast I was going!
I really liked how easy it was to mount, and un-mount, though. 

I've heard the LED light interference problem only really happens with 
bar-mounted lights.

-Pete

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[RBW] Re: Burnsville Metric

2011-05-02 Thread Peter Pesce
Great write-up!

I'm doing my first ever metric in a few weeks on my Sam. (Both my first 
metric, and first on my Sam)

Hopefully mine will be a bit flatter, or I might not make it!

-Pete


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[RBW] Re: NYC Bike Shops

2011-05-06 Thread Peter Pesce
It's not really Riv-sh, but bfold (www.bfold.com) is one of those "only in 
New York" kind of shops - they sell exclusively folders and you need to 
negotiate a flight of stairs to get to the shop that David runs out of a 
small apartment!
You'll be amazed how many Bike Fridays and Bromptons he stocks!


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[RBW] schwalbe marathon racer 700x35 or kojak 700x35 for romulus

2011-05-09 Thread Peter Pesce
I put 700x35 Kojacs on Velocity Dyad rims on my Sam and they were just barely 
32mm wide at 70-ish PSI. 

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[RBW] Re: Marathon Supreme Input please

2011-05-17 Thread Peter Pesce
Tire-a-holic here too!
I already have 3 sets of tires for my 10-month-old Sam (obviously, none are 
anywhere close to worn out!)
I picked up a set of 700x35 Kojaks and really like them, though they run 
small and I'm not yet sure how durable they will be.
My Pasela's have been utterly unfazed by the garbage-strewn roads I ride. 
We'll see how the Kojaks hold up.

-Pete

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[RBW] need ideas for versatile touring/commuting bars other than rando/drops

2011-05-17 Thread Peter Pesce
You might try trekking bars. They can be configured a few different ways that 
might help with your reach issues. Don't know what your commute is like, but I 
personally like flat-ish bars for gnarly urban riding. Upright, high leverage, 
mtb brake levers. 
Kent Peterson likes flat bars with the Ergon grips that have the big bar-end 
extensions. He puts on lots of miles. Even though the Ergons are expensive, the 
flat-ish bar will only cost like $15, though you probably have one lying around 
already. This might not be ideal if your touring needs are long road miles. 
Just my 2c.  

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[RBW] Re: FS Rivendell Road Frame

2011-05-20 Thread Peter Pesce
Oh man. Nice color, too.
I hear a voice in my head:
"Sir, put the credit card down on the floor and back away s-l-o-w-l-y..."

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[RBW] Re: Overtaking Motor Vehicles on a Bicycle

2011-05-31 Thread Peter Pesce
I read the book and highly recommend it also. Very pragmatic, not didactic.
Sort of a balance of "vehicular" and "invisible" cycling strategies, which 
always struck me as the right way to go about it..

-Pete

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[RBW] Re: Considering new pedals

2011-06-01 Thread Peter Pesce
I tried the GR9's and they pretty nice if that's the style you like. I 
realized that I'm not fan of clips, so ended up going a different direction. 
Several, actually!

I have an almost-new pair of GR-9s that I could sell you pretty cheap if you 
are interested. Also a set of VO Deep Half-clips with antique brown 
leathers, also virtually new.

Let me know off line.

-Pete

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[RBW] Re: Considering new pedals

2011-06-02 Thread Peter Pesce
Michael-

Re-reading your original post it seems you are not necessarily looking to 
change away from a clipless pedal, only looking to cure your hot-spot 
problems?
In that case I might recommend the Shimano A520 pedal if you still want 
clipless but need a wider support platform to get rid of hot-spots. They 
won't work with your frog cleats, of course. I use them on one of my bikes 
and ride in Keen commuters all the time with no issues. I was using the A530 
but had a similar hot spot issue (the SPD side of the A530 is only a "spot" 
connection, the platform is on the opposite, non-SPD, side with those 
pedals) which was totally cured with the switch to the A520. They're not too 
dear either - you can usually find them for under $50.

-Pete 

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[RBW] Re: Double Top Tube Sam Hillborne

2011-06-06 Thread Peter Pesce
I chose a 60cm Taiwan Sam over a Waterford Sam because I didn't really like 
the looks of the undertube. At the time one was able the get a 60 in either 
configuration. And I actually preferred the sidepull brakes at the time, 
too.
For my use - 99% easy road riding - it works fine. At 235lbs, I feel like 
it's about as light a "road bike" as I should be on. (cue the chorus of much 
heavier guys on much lighter bikes to prove me wrong :-)
If I were doing a lot of dirt riding or carrying lots of stuff, I'd want the 
extra support of the undertube and the better braking options of cantis.
You're weight's not an issue, though, so I think it's purely an aesthetic 
and brake-type-preference decision for you.

-Pete

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[RBW] Re: Market Prices for Riv Frames

2011-06-15 Thread Peter Pesce
Interesting topic indeed. I'm pretty new to the 'dell so I don't have much 
historical perspective or data to add.
One idea, though - would it be any use to have the Group admin set up a 
database where we could list transactions in used Rivs? 
I know of other "collector" groups that do something similar... you can 
enter data as either buyer or seller, or as a 3rd party (ie, "I saw this one 
sold on ebay...) as long it is clearly stated

-Pete

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[RBW] OT: Bike Storage

2011-06-15 Thread Peter Pesce
There are lots of different hooks, bike-specific and non-, that you can find at 
HD, on amazon etc. In almost every case, the vinyl "tool dip" or neoprene 
coating is the weak point. it never lasts through more than a few on-and-offs. 
Probably makes sense to wrap whatever you buy with a strip of old inner tube 
under some extra bar tape  or twine (un-shellacked) right from the start.
No reason your bike storage shouldn't be as Riv-ish as your bike! 

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[RBW] Re: HS

2011-06-20 Thread Peter Pesce
What a fun game! Here's my guess...
This is the prototype for the commuter/city bike Grant mentioned a while 
ago.
But, I think, Riv wants to have a sample size greater than 1 to assess the 
various ideas on the bike, so the idea of a "limited edition" of higher-end 
prototypes is a pretty good one. I'm also guessing that this is a test of 
concepts, not fabrication efficiency or build quality, like you would ask 
for from a factory. By hand-building all the frames locally, Grant can 
observe, fiddle, and tweak as necessary. Oh, and the R&D gets paid for by 
the customers, which is probably a big deal if things are as lean as they 
sound at Riv HQ.
I agree with others that the front derailer issue probably stems from the 
inclusion of the bottom bracket hand grip that we saw mocked up in bar tape 
a couple of months ago. Doesn't mean there couldn't be a work-around, but 
declaring "no FD" heads off any potential whining...
As for the "mystery option" - brake type is a pretty good guess - Riv is 
probably interested to see how many takers there are for canti or sidepull. 
I'd LOVE to see them offer center-pull braze-ons, but I doubt it. The other 
option could be dropouts - horizontal or vertical.
No clue what the "HS" stands for!

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[RBW] Re: New Hillborne

2011-06-20 Thread Peter Pesce
Great looking Sam!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Future Rivs

2011-06-22 Thread Peter Pesce
Sasha White did a kid's bike - 26" wheels with a low saddle and really cool 
look. He thought it was good for 5 years - age 7 -12.
Very Riv-ish IMHO.
http://bikeportland.org/2011/02/26/a-bike-for-kids-from-sacha-white-of-vanilla-bicycles-48741

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[RBW] Re: Future Rivs

2011-06-22 Thread Peter Pesce
Good point. 
Better order it when your kid starts walking!

In any case, if Riv could design a smart kids frame and get it made for $600 or 
so, seems like there are plenty of people on this list who'd spend that, 
knowing they could build it up with spare parts they already have (ok , maybe 
not the 150mm cranks!) and sell it to another list member when the kid outgrew 
it. Seems like a perfect Riv idea to me - the infinitely reused bike frame.  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Future Rivs

2011-06-23 Thread Peter Pesce
Seems to me Schwinn (and maybe Huffy, etc) made a pretty good line of kid's 
bikes back in the day. 
By LBS as a kid was a stand-alone Schwinn dealer. They later added other 
brands, or course, but my friends and I all got Stingrays (and Varsitys and 
LeTours) from that shop. 
The problem is that mass market kids bikes are made to look like shrunken 
adult bikes, complete with suspension, too many gears, etc. There wasn't 
really an "adult" version of the Stingray!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Future Rivs

2011-06-23 Thread Peter Pesce
That is so fantastic! Thanks for sharing it.

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[RBW] Re: NOS romulus.

2011-06-24 Thread Peter Pesce
Oh man. That's really torture!

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[RBW] Re: Future Rivs

2011-06-24 Thread Peter Pesce
I love that trailer (at least I think I do -. never seen one in person). 
Hadn't thought about Riv doing one with a matching bag. Cool idea!
Although the world needs a $1500 lugged steel trailer about as much as a 
$1500 lugged steel kids bike...

On Friday, June 24, 2011 2:17:09 PM UTC-4, Philip Williamson wrote:
>
> I'd like to see a Rivendell bike trailer with a Nigel Smythe bag like 
> this Jack Taylor / Goëland in Bicycle Quarterly: 
> http://www.bikequarterly.com/images/GBwTrailer.jpg 
>
> And a production version of their ill-fated Mountain Fixie, optimized 
> for drop bars. Ideally, with a limited run of Cunningham drop bars 
> like they did with the Bullmoose. Derailler hanger, kickstand plate 
> and fender mounts would be acceptable, but I'm not talking about an 
> overbuilt Fargo rig with 40,000 braze-ons. Just a fun, light, knock- 
> around-in-the-woods bike with a long headtube and a long seatpost. Any 
> wheel size would be fine. A complementary super-rise Nitto threadless 
> stem, either lugged or not, painted or not, would be a fantastic 
> bonus. 
>
> I'd like to see that more than the trailer, but it's about as likely. 
>  Philip 
>
>  Philip Williamson 
> www.biketinker.com 
>
>
> On Jun 23, 2:59 pm, William  wrote: 
> > Taking it back to the Original Post:  What bike(s) would you like to 
> > see Riv implement in the future? 
> > 
> > The one I'm shocked nobody brought up (or maybe it's because we've all 
> > said it so much that it needs no more saying) was the Riv Tandem. 
> > 
> > On Jun 20, 3:33 pm, Joe Bernard  wrote: 
> > 
> > > While we're on the subject of guessing what the new Rivendell is, I'd 
> > > like to offer up my own "gosh, I wish they would do this" bike. 
> > 
> > > I'd like a 26-inch-wheel City Bike with an IGH, dynohub, and drum 
> > > brakes. Preferably butterscotch color. 
> > 
> > > Joe "I like dreamin" Bernard 
> > > Fairfield, CA.

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[RBW] WTB: Schwalbe Big Apple 26x2.0

2011-06-28 Thread Peter Pesce
I have an almost new pair of 26x2.15 (55mm)  Big Apple liteskins if you are 
looking for a really plush ride!

Pete

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[RBW] Re: NOS romulus.

2011-06-28 Thread Peter Pesce
Seems to be sold. 
Thank you to whoever bought it and saved my marriage! :)

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[RBW] Cross levers on 46cm Noodle bars?

2011-07-01 Thread Peter Pesce
Another vote here in favor. I had them on Noodles on my Sam and really liked 
them. Mine were Tektros and were great IMHO. I find that on dirt or gravel I 
hate riding on the hoods and prefer the flats, the the cross levers are 
perfect. Maybe too many years of mountain biking. I also  use a VO "Rackaleut" 
to get round bar bag issues.  Though you need to stick to small handlebar bags. 

I've been testing out rando bars recently, a 45(?)cm Nitto at present, and the 
cross levers don't work well with them at all. 

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[RBW] Re: Which nail polish for 1st generation green Sam Hillborne?

2011-07-05 Thread Peter Pesce
Use clear.
If you can't fix it, feature it!

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Re: [RBW] messing around with my Hunqapillar

2013-08-22 Thread Peter Pesce
I have a few of these stems, some Dimension branded, some Civia, and they are 
fantastic for the price. I'd love to see more pop top quills. Pragmatics beats 
aesthetics for me most of the time. I'm currently riding two bikes with quill 
stems the wrong length because I'm  too lazy to replace the shellacked cork 
grips on them. 

Pete in CT

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[RBW] Re: quickbeam/S.O. questions

2013-08-30 Thread Peter Pesce
I have my QB set up with the Riv-supplied double up front and a White 
Industries DOS freewheel in back. I don't use the flip side of the hub at 
the moment. It's easy to shift, but I don't shift much as my commute can be 
done in one gear and that's 99% of my riding on the QB.

I hang a pannier briefcase off a Tubus rack out back and the bike handles 
great. I don't use front cargo options much. 

I have an older set of SKS/Berthoud plastic fenders on the bike now, but 
agree with other that a pop-off rear fender mount makes life much easier 
with the horizontal dropout.

The QB/SO is a bike with a very unique and versatile spec - wide tires, 
canti brakes, lugged steel, horizontal-ish dropouts. I'm not surprised a 
recent frame on Ebay went for good money - I don't think you can get that 
combo anywhere else without going custom.

-Pete in CT

On Sunday, August 25, 2013 8:19:13 PM UTC-4, JL wrote:
>
> Cyclotourist's new addition has me thinking again about a "singlespeed" 
> commute/errand bike (I plan to keep my eye out for one at the right price 
> 56 or 54cm). Right now that role is filled by my fantastic CB0, but it 
> might be a little overbuilt for that role.
>
> QB owners:  How does the bike handle on paved streets and fireroads with 
> medium front/rear load (something like a nitto rack with panniers and a 
> nitto front rack with a basket?)  I I have seen tour reports, etc. but it 
> has been a while.  
>
> Jason
> SF,CA
>
>
>

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[RBW] Hello

2014-02-21 Thread Peter Pesce
This was flagged as virus spam on ibob. 
Caution. 

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[RBW] Bleriot Frames FS

2014-02-27 Thread Peter Pesce
Not mine;
Peter White  Feb 27 11:22AM -0800  

Just remembered we have a couple of new Bleriot frames. 1 is a 53cm, the 
other is 61cm. $600.00 frame and fork. Plus, I'll mill the head tube and 
fork crown with the Campagnolo cutters so a headset won't wear out in a few 
months. 


Pete in CT

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[RBW] Bleriot Frames FS

2014-02-28 Thread Peter Pesce
Sorry if there was any confusion. I posted this hastily when I saw it for the 
benefit of the group. 
The post appeared on a Google group called Bicycle Lifestyle that Peter White 
moderates. The original post is here:
https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/bicyclelifestyle/Pgk94osMy7A

For those of you who PM'd me, I am not the seller, though my name is Peter and 
the sellers name is Peter and my post was a bit cryptic so the confusion is 
understandable. You should contact Peter White directly. 

Thanks 
Pete in CT

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[RBW] 62 Rambouilet on ebay

2014-03-01 Thread Peter Pesce
I've seen other forums use the prefix PSA, for Public Service Announcement, to 
identify posts of things that might be of interest to the group. 

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Re: [RBW] need club name

2014-03-23 Thread Peter Pesce
Awesome ideas all. Maybe "socialite" would be easier to swallow than socialist. 

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[RBW] Re: Sackville SaddleSack Tips

2010-11-16 Thread Peter Pesce
I don't have a Saddlesack, but I use a Carradice Bagman support on my
Sam H and I love it.
I have the QR version and leave it on all the time, but the attachment
is only one hex screw, so it's not a lot of work to put it on every
time, either.
Just my 2c.

-Pete

On Nov 15, 10:09 pm, "D.Lemon"  wrote:
> Dear RBW Owners Bunch,
>
> For those who currently (or have ever) own and operate the Medium
> SackVille SS bag, I'm wondering what your technique is (was) for
> lifting the bag up and away from the rear tire.
>
> Item #5 on RBW's "SaddleSack Tips" states "The extra set of D-rings at
> the bottom of the Medium bag let you hoist the bag off the tire, if it
> rubs" "...They are there for the creative."
>
> So, I write to the group in hopes that some will provide their
> "creative" use of those D-rings to lift the bag off the tire.  I'm
> aware the Nitto Top Rack is the ideal remedy here, but I'd rather not
> use one.
>
> Specs:  I run a 56 AHH with a fistful of post, silver side-pulls, and
> Schwalbe Maras...  of which the rear one really wants to rub the
> underside of the bag with even the slightest of loads.
>
> Many thanks in advance for your input.
>
> David

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[RBW] Re: Sackville SaddleSack Tips

2010-11-16 Thread Peter Pesce
Search for "silver hupe" here and then go get a coffee while all the
results load!

On Nov 16, 9:59 am, Kelly  wrote:
> I was looking at a large  bag  and they had a loop or medal thing that
> just hooked on the frame.  Was rubberized so it wasn't supposed to
> scratch anything. (sorry left to see something) I found it on the RBW
> site .. they call it a silver hupe.   I've been meaning to ask about
> this thing anyway.. but looks like a good solution to me.
>
> Kelly
>
> On Nov 16, 8:39 am, Peter Pesce  wrote:
>
> > I don't have a Saddlesack, but I use a Carradice Bagman support on my
> > Sam H and I love it.
> > I have the QR version and leave it on all the time, but the attachment
> > is only one hex screw, so it's not a lot of work to put it on every
> > time, either.
> > Just my 2c.
>
> > -Pete
>
> > On Nov 15, 10:09 pm, "D.Lemon"  wrote:
>
> > > Dear RBW Owners Bunch,
>
> > > For those who currently (or have ever) own and operate the Medium
> > > SackVille SS bag, I'm wondering what your technique is (was) for
> > > lifting the bag up and away from the rear tire.
>
> > > Item #5 on RBW's "SaddleSack Tips" states "The extra set of D-rings at
> > > the bottom of the Medium bag let you hoist the bag off the tire, if it
> > > rubs" "...They are there for the creative."
>
> > > So, I write to the group in hopes that some will provide their
> > > "creative" use of those D-rings to lift the bag off the tire.  I'm
> > > aware the Nitto Top Rack is the ideal remedy here, but I'd rather not
> > > use one.
>
> > > Specs:  I run a 56 AHH with a fistful of post, silver side-pulls, and
> > > Schwalbe Maras...  of which the rear one really wants to rub the
> > > underside of the bag with even the slightest of loads.
>
> > > Many thanks in advance for your input.
>
> > > David- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Non Brooks Saddle recommendations please.

2010-11-22 Thread Peter Pesce
Not sure I'd want to leave a Brooks outside in NYC either!

I've heard good things about WTB saddles - and they make a pretty wide
variety, so finding a good fit should be possible.
Many of them come in a simple black design, which would look ok. Some
other designs are too flashy for my tastes.

I haven't tried them myself, but I'm seriously considering it if it
can't get my Brooks to work for me pretty soon!

-Pete

On Nov 22, 10:17 am, JGS  wrote:
> I do ride w/ the nose tipped up, which helps but not enough.  I think
> part of the problem is that I'm in many different positions since I
> mostly ride as a commuter.  When I ride more for sport and can shift
> my weight forward the pressure tends to move to my sit bones where it
> should be.
>
> I've always wanted to try a selle anatomica but given that I lock my
> bike up in NYC all the time, I don't think I can bring myself to put a
> $175 saddle on the bike.
>
> Anyone have experience with the Serfas RX saddles?
>
> On Nov 22, 10:11 am, Bruce  wrote:
>
> > Selle Anatomica of course.. but have you tried your Brooks with the nose 
> > tipped
> > up?
>
> > 
> > From: JGS 
> > To: RBW Owners Bunch 
> > Sent: Mon, November 22, 2010 9:02:05 AM
> > Subject: [RBW] Non Brooks Saddle recommendations please.
>
> > Hey there,
>
> > I've been riding w/ Brooks saddle for several years and I've come to
> > worry that I'm putting too much pressure on my softer parts.  I've try
> > adjustments but I'd love to know if anyone has a recommendation for a
> > simple saddle w/ a slot to protect me that might be great and look
> > good w/ my Atlantis.
>
> > Thanks so much!
>
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[RBW] Re: Non Brooks Saddle recommendations please.

2010-11-23 Thread Peter Pesce
Advice will only go so far. There's just nothing, not shoes, not
underwear, nothing, that's as personal and unique as saddle fit. One
man's easy chair is another man's fence post!
If you can find a shop that has the WTB Test Ride program that Jim
Thill mentioned above, give that a try. Also, some LBS's sell "take-
off" saddles at a discount, so you can try a few without breaking the
bank.
It's a worthwhile investment that will pay off every mile you ride
once you get it right.

On Nov 23, 10:19 am, Montclair BobbyB 
wrote:
> Admittedly I have a bit of a Brooks "dependency", but despite having a
> strong opinion on this topic, I speak the truth.  Since I've been
> riding Brooks B17s on my road and mountain bikes, all my comfort
> problems have vanished.  I no longer even ride with padded shorts
> (thank God)... In fact, my new favorite riding shorts are big, baggy
> cotton camo shorts (by WonderWall) that I picked up for $3 at the
> Goodwill store in Healdsburg...  A. Because they're so comfortable on
> a leather saddle and have huge pockets, and B. because the tag reads
> "Dedicated to those who don't allow the truth to interfere with a good
> story"... (which I think IS funny, but I AM still telling the truth
> here).
>
> Peace,
> BB
>
> On Nov 23, 8:57 am, James Warren  wrote:
>
> > This one is making its way onto all my bikes. By far my favorite. Check out 
> > the built-in saddlebag loops:
>
> >http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCEqProduct.jsp?spid=57843
>
> > (If Bridgestone and Rivendell hadn't caught my attention decades ago, I'd 
> > probably be a spaz for Specialized.)
>
> > On Nov 22, 2010, at 8:46 PM, Bill M. wrote:
>
> > > I've tried a couple of WTB saddles (Vigo and Pure V), and while
> > > they're OK, neither completely got rid of my soft tissue discomfort.
>
> > > Two that do work for me are a Specialized Alias on my go-fast, and the
> > > wider Terry Liberator Y "Gelissimo". For a B17 replacement, I'd
> > > recommend the Terry.  its gel layer is firm enough to not feel
> > > squishy, and the cutout is well placed to relieve the pressure that
> > > causes me pain.
>
> > > BTW, I have slotted a B17 and a Flyer, and that does help.  My
> > > process:  Start with a 1/2" drill to enlarge the existing vent holes,
> > > drill more holes in between and (for my anatomy) one more hole forward
> > > of the forward hole, then trim out the waste with a razor knife.  A
> > > sharp vegetable peeler works well as a skiver to smooth and shape the
> > > edge of the cutout.  Ride it, see where you still have contact with
> > > the edges, and trim to suit.  If you reach underneath and give
> > > yourself a poke, you may be amazed at how much flesh extends through
> > > the hole - all that was getting crushed before   You might want to
> > > wait until the neighbors aren't looking to try that.  Burnish the raw
> > > cut edge with some Proofide and the round shaft of a screwdriver.  If
> > > the saddle wants to sag too much, drill a few holes along the bottom
> > > edge and lace it up with a leather shoelace.
>
> > > Bill
>
> > > On Nov 22, 7:02 am, JGS  wrote:
> > >> Hey there,
>
> > >> I've been riding w/ Brooks saddle for several years and I've come to
> > >> worry that I'm putting too much pressure on my softer parts.  I've try
> > >> adjustments but I'd love to know if anyone has a recommendation for a
> > >> simple saddle w/ a slot to protect me that might be great and look
> > >> good w/ my Atlantis.
>
> > >> Thanks so much!
>
> > > --
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> > > -
>
> > - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Custom Stem? Who makes a worthy one for my Bombadil

2010-11-23 Thread Peter Pesce
You'd think someone would have made a quill with a removable face
plate by now

On Nov 23, 2:19 pm, William  wrote:
> ...but the VO quill adapter gets you into the full mainstream of
> selection if you want quick and easy stem swaps, and it's only $16.  I
> think it's not bad looking either.  That piece converts your
> 1" (22.2mm) quill bike into a receptacle for any 1-1/8" clamp-on
> stem.  Those come in every size, rise, and color, and most of them
> have a removable front plate so you can do your 5 minute stem swaps.
> That's an easy solution, provided you don't mind the "moderne" look.
>
> On Nov 23, 10:37 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
>
>  wrote:
> > Quill stems are a great frustration for me for exactly this reason:
> > very little selection in terms of rise, clamp diameter, etc. So many
> > good handlebar options that simply aren't available to those of us who
> > happen to have a bike with a quill stem. And what seems to be a simple
> > stem swap becomes an hour's worth of work and a sacrifice of perfectly
> > good bar tape...
>
> > There's a builder here in MN, I think his name is Mike Pofahl, who has
> > a good reputation, if not much fame. I have heard rumors that he makes
> > custom stems for very reasonable prices - i.e. competitive with a
> > Nitto Technomic. I cannot find contact info for him at the moment, but
> > I think you could get in touch with him through Milltown 
> > Cycles:http://www.milltowncycles.com/
>
> > On Nov 22, 8:51 pm, williwoods  wrote:
>
> > > Hey guys. So I am having a bit of a dilema. Been riding my Bullmoose
> > > bars all week and my hands just arent agreeing with these.
>
> > > I am going to run either Porteur bars or Albatross or something
> > > similar with not a whole lot of rise not drop bars.
>
> > > There arent a whole lot of options these days as far as stems go. I
> > > believe what I want is a stem that has a bit of rise to it. This way I
> > > dont need to run a technomic raised all the way. I really like the
> > > Nitto Lugged stems and have thought about running a threadless Nitto
> > > with a Quill adapter. But that seems kinda silly. Another option I saw
> > > that I really liked was the Nitto Reversable stem but it looks like
> > > the only ones around are 60mm and those are $130..not that bad really
> > > but I think I need at least an 80mm, man these are so cool. Wish I
> > > could find an old Diamond Back MTB that had a similar stem stock on em
> > > also a nitto made item.
>
> > > I know about the Nitto Dirt Drop stems but honestly I find them a bit
> > > uglyis that silly of me?
>
> > > So the last thing I am contemplating is a Custom stem. If I get a
> > > custom stem made I would like to get something made that is similar to
> > > a lugged nitto, something that will match the personality of my frame
> > > and lugged seatpost I have.
>
> > > Any Ideas?

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[RBW] Re: NW CT

2010-11-24 Thread Peter Pesce

Almost. I'm in SW CT, Norwalk to be precise.

-Pete
On Nov 24, 5:54 pm, robert zeidler  wrote:
> Any riders from this group living in NW CT, or Western MA?

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[RBW] Re: Correct Way to Measure Extension on Technomic Deluxe

2010-12-06 Thread Peter Pesce
You could, of course, just list the actual measurement and let the
buyer decide if that's what they want or not.
You wouldn't be mis-representing anything.

On Dec 6, 1:02 pm, Shaun Meehan  wrote:
> On Mon, Dec 6, 2010 at 11:49 AM, William  wrote:
>
> > Since you have both stems on hand, you should be able to fit them both
> > side by side on a handlebar, line up the quill parts parallel and
> > settle it once and for all.
>
> __
>
> I can, of course, measure the two and determine the difference. The
> problem is I'm not certain what the specified extension on the Techno
> Deluxe is. I trust that the lugged stem is a 12cm because I just
> bought it from RBW and it was labeled as such. I bought the Techno
> Deluxe when I bought my Atlantis frame and IIRC, I ordered a 12cm.
> When I hold them side-by-side the lugged stem looks a little longer.
> I'd like to verify that the TD is indeed a 12cm because I'd like to
> sell it and I don't want to sell someone a 11cm stem that I've
> advertised as a 12cm. I looked and I didn't see the extension length
> stamped on the stem.
>
> Shaun Meehan

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[RBW] Re: Two Hillbornes in the wild

2010-12-08 Thread Peter Pesce
Hmm. He got 42's on there with fenders?
Excuse me, I'm off to do some tire shopping!

-Pete

On Dec 8, 10:01 am, Earl Grey  wrote:
> My friend Paul just got back to Thailand with his new 56cm Hillborne,
> which he bought after riding my 56 Hillborne and Kip's 56 Bomba. I
> believe his carbon Felt is for sale. :)
>
> If you want to see the two Sams side by side, click here
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/25150...@n08/5244123396/
>
> (His is riding on 42mm Marathon Extremes, while mine is on 33mm Jack
> Browns, which explains the apparent height difference.)
>
> Enjoy,
>
> Gernot
>
> PS: Going on an all-Hillborne ride Friday!

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[RBW] Re: Which Rivendell bike?

2010-12-09 Thread Peter Pesce
Every time I think I need a new Riv (and then acknowledge, yet again,
that I can't afford one) I realize that I could get most of what I
think I want in a new bike with a tire and/or cockpit swap on my Sam.
Gotta love it. (Though maybe not so good for Riv's bottom line! They
should start making more one trick ponys)

-Pete

On Dec 9, 2:37 am, Allan in Portland  wrote:
> I know I said not to tell, but was the color what settled it for
> you? :-) Price sure is nice.
>
> Enjoy!
> -Allan
>
> On Dec 8, 2:08 pm, jim phillips  wrote:
>
> > Thanks guys! I have the answer! I am getting the bikes in the following 
> > order:
>
> > Sam Hillborne
>
> > A.Homer Hilson
>
> > Roadeo
>
> > Atlantis
>
> > After that ...
>
> > Thanks again!
>
> > best,
>
> > JimP
>
> > > Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2010 13:57:52 -0800
> > > Subject: [RBW] Re: Which Rivendell bike?
> > > From: montclairbob...@gmail.com
> > > To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
>
> > > ...Make it easy-just get one of each! ...
>
> > > THAT is the best answer so far
>
> > > Actually, this would make for a nice test... Assemble a blue ribbon
> > > panel of riders (of varying size and weights, riding preferences and
> > > styles), each performing a comparison ride of all the Rivs while
> > > testing them over the varied terrain at JimP's place (hope it's no
> > > imposition, Jim...).  Each rider would ride each bike over the same
> > > course and do a write up of each ride; not to declare one better than
> > > the other; rather to describe the ride characteristics of each.
>
> > > Maybe we'll attempt a less-formal version of this at Riv Rally East in
> > > May...
>
> > > BB
>
> > > On Dec 8, 4:13 pm, robert zeidler  wrote:
> > > > Make it easy-just get one of each!
>
> > > > On Wed, Dec 8, 2010 at 1:51 PM, Michael DiBenedetto
> > > > wrote:
>
> > > > > Alan-
> > > > > Great insights-
> > > > > After too much reading, thinking, questing, that is exactly what I 
> > > > > did -
> > > > > chose the Hunq as my one all-rounder for comfort AND style - not 
> > > > > trying to
> > > > > figure out the PERFECT ride to suit all those SPECIFIC needs.
> > > > > Thanks
> > > > > Michael D.
> > > > > Walnut Creek
>
> > > > > Michael DiBenedetto
> > > > >www.lifeforcemassage.com
> > > > > 3190 Old Tunnel Rd. Suite C
> > > > > Lafayette, CA. 94549
> > > > > 925-899-2785
>
> > > > > On Dec 8, 2010, at 10:28 AM, Allan in Portland 
> > > > > 
> > > > > wrote:
>
> > > > > > Surface, which you've mentioned is one consideration. Speed and 
> > > > > > weight
> > > > > > (both yours and gear) are the others.
>
> > > > > > And here's the somewhat boring truth: unless you are extreme in 
> > > > > > weight
> > > > > > or speed, or a bicycle connoisseur (and in which case you wouldn't 
> > > > > > be
> > > > > > asking on a list-serve in the first place) any Riv will do 
> > > > > > admirably.
> > > > > > When it comes down to it, feel free to pick based on color, just 
> > > > > > don't
> > > > > > tell any of the folks here that. :-)
>
> > > > > > The irony is kind of funny that some folks mock cyclists that think
> > > > > > they need just the right foot gear or what-have-you, and yet split
> > > > > > hairs on frames and handlebars all the same. Not saying there's not 
> > > > > > a
> > > > > > difference among frames or handlebars, but sometimes us systemizer-
> > > > > > maximizer types can get carried away.
>
> > > > > > Best,
> > > > > > -Allan
>
> > > > > > --
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>
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> > > > >-
>
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[RBW] Re: Wheel Lights Pondering

2010-12-12 Thread Peter Pesce

I read a suggestion somewhere (Sheldon?  PJW?) to put reflective tape
strips on the INSIDE of the rim, facing the hub. Since this surface
faces alternately front and rear, and is in motion, it is supposedly
very effective.

Anybody doing this?

Pete
On Dec 12, 10:55 am, JimD  wrote:
> On my commute for dark times of the year I want to be REAL visible.
>
> My take is that making oneself visible among many car lights, various  
> street lights, and
> commercial signage, one's bike can't be over lit.
>
> I have 2 bright front LED lights, a Dinotte rear light and accompany  
> the Dinotte with two planet bike blinkys.
> I'm using the Riv wheel reflectors, Riv ankle reflectors, and a  
> reflective vest. I have an eos led on my helmet
> (mainly for getting the attention of cars at intersections). I'm going  
> for the 'It Came From OuterSpace' look
> and it seems to work.
>
> Riding home on Friday I met a bicycler with Niteiz Spokelits on his  
> front wheel.
> When he was moving his bike  was quite visible from the side.
> Looking on the Google I see that these use CR2016 batteries so that  
> isn't such a good thing.
> As lights go they aren't too dear ~ USD $ 8.
>
> Anyone using Spokelits?
>
> I'm also intrigued by Monkey Lights but my lighting compulsion isn't  
> so strong (yet) that I'm going to
> spend ~ USD $ 60. They do look like fun but a bit of a kludge.
>
> Light em up,
> JimD

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[RBW] Re: Wheel Lights Pondering

2010-12-13 Thread Peter Pesce
I found it, it was Jobst Brandt on Sheldon's site:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/reflective-tape.html

Seems like a really good idea, that would not otherwise impact the
look of the bike.
For my rims, if I were to try this technique I'd want something that
blended in with the silver color during the day, even if it weren't
the "most" reflective at night.

Jim, I think the tape you refer to is known as SOLAS grade (for Safety
Of Life At Sea) and is very good.
I've had good luck with the red and white "conspicuity" tape from the
auto parts store, cut up and applied at various spots on my commuter
bike, and many of the 3M products work well, too.

My Riv, at the moment, is only set up for day rides with a rear
blinky Anybody know where I can find Hillborne orange reflective
tape? :)

-Pete

On Dec 13, 1:48 pm, CycloFiend  wrote:
> on 12/12/10 11:52 AM, Peter Pesce at petepe...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>
>
> > I read a suggestion somewhere (Sheldon?  PJW?) to put reflective tape
> > strips on the INSIDE of the rim, facing the hub. Since this surface
> > faces alternately front and rear, and is in motion, it is supposedly
> > very effective.
>
> > Anybody doing this?
>
> Ride buddy and Rando guy JimG has done this to at least one of his
> wheelsets.  It makes his bike very visible and dynamic when viewed.
>
> I've found some super reflective tape designed for marine rescue use (goes
> onto survival suits and floatation devices).  I've cut strips that now go
> around the struts on my racks, mostly for side visibility. I've used larger
> sections on the fenders as well. I've located a couple of bits so that the
> pedaling motion of my foot/ankle will cause them to "flash" if viewed from
> the side.
>
> The reflective tape which is sold by RUSA is pretty good, excellent
> visibility though a bit finicky to work with and prone to scratching off.
>
> My shoulder bags have hanging reflective tabs, my wind/rain shells have
> reflective piping, my SIDI shoes have reflective heels, and when I'm wearing
> my MUSA knickers, they have the flecto-strips on the back of the thigh.
>
> - Jim
>
> --
> Jim Edgar
> cyclofi...@earthlink.net
>
> "One Cog - Zero Excuses" L/S T-shirt (and others!) - Now 
> availablehttp://www.cyclofiend.com/stuff
>
> Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
> Current Classics - Cross Bikes
> Singlespeed - Working Bikes
>
> Gallery updates now appear here -http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com

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[RBW] Re: sad e-mail from Renaissance

2010-12-15 Thread Peter Pesce
Sad to see them go. The photo archive should be preserved for
posterity for sure, if Ren is ever not able to keep it up.
This also brings up another interesting thing- Ren may be a "LBS" for
some, but they are an Internet vendor to me, being several thousand
miles away. My local shops are under more threat from a great LBS with
an Internet presence, like Ren or Harris, than they are from Amazon or
Nashbar. In fact, even if lived 15 minutes from shop like Harris, I'd
still probably still use their web site for most of my special
orders.

On Dec 15, 8:58 pm, EricP  wrote:
> That does make me sad.  Seems like a lot of things are going that
> way.  Am still trying to support my LBS (Hiawatha Cyclery).  Though I
> did place an order with Rivendell this week.
>
> Funny thing, though.  In reality, Hiawatha is not my LBS.  There are
> probably half a dozen shops closer.  Maybe a dozen.  But I prefer the
> service and knowledge at Hiawatha, so spend my money there.  Sadly,
> the closest shop to my house will never get my business because of the
> attitude.
>
> Eric Platt
> St. Paul, MN
>
> On Dec 15, 1:33 pm, doug peterson  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Renaissance Bicycles is the latest victim of the Great Recession.  On
> > their blog, they announced they are closing shop.  Special thanks for
> > support went to Rivendell.
>
> > dougP

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[RBW] Re: Pics of new Samuel Hillborne

2010-12-20 Thread Peter Pesce
Looks great.
Love the Fat Franks with sidepulls - that's cool!

-Pete
(fellow "Sidepull Sam" club member)

On Dec 20, 6:55 am, JimP  wrote:
> I think I have it now. Fingers crossed!
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/56694...@n02/
>
> best,
>
> JimP

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar Wrap - Why Not Leather?

2011-01-03 Thread Peter Pesce
+1 for cheap.

I like to mess around with parts on my bike, and often need to re-wrap
the bars.
Cloth is cheap. The shellacking IS a pain, though.
I've heard great things about Fizik tape and I might try some next
time around.
Anyone have any experience with re-using bar tape (Fizik or
otherwise?)

-Pete

On Jan 3, 4:06 pm, AmiSingh  wrote:
> Question for the group.
>
> It appears as though there is a general overall preference for using
> cloth or cork handlebar wrap / grips rather than leather.
>
> Why is it so skewed away from leather, especially considering so many
> of us try and have our handlebar cloth or cork resemble the leather
> saddles on our bikes so closely?
>
> Why not just use leather bar wrap?

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar Wrap - Why Not Leather?

2011-01-03 Thread Peter Pesce
Thanks Jim,
I actually just ordered some Fizik Brown from CRC.
The re-taping isn't a big deal, just would have been a bonus. I'd be
happy just to save the shelacking each time.
And yes, photos please!

Pete

On Jan 3, 5:55 pm, Jim Cloud  wrote:
> I'm using the Fizik Microtex handle bar tape on both of my bikes.  The
> most recently installed is a very nice Honey Brown color for my
> Rivendell Road Standard.  That color is great to match a honey brown
> Brooks saddle, like the B.17 Special that is on my Riv.  Unfortunately
> the honey brown color of Fizik Microtex, as well as their Antique
> Brown color are only available presently from the UK or in Europe.  I
> ordered my tape from a UK source and I've found it available from
> another at an even better price:  
> http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=46974
> (The price from this source compares fairly well with domestic
> pricing, where the tape typically sells for $17.99 plus local taxes,
> or shipping).
>
> It seemed strange to me that these colors of the Fizik Microtex tape
> have been available in the UK for more than a year, but not in the
> U.S.  After a conversation with the owner of my favorite LBS, I've
> discovered the reason.  He told me that the U.S. distributor for Fizik
> also imports the pricey Brooks leather handlebar tape.  Apparently,
> they don't want the less expensive Fizik tape to compete with the
> Brooks leather tape.  Go figure...
>
> I've never tried to re-wrap my handlebars with the Fizik bar tape.  I
> don't, however, think that it would be too suitable for re-wrapping
> (it's obviously not as cheap as cloth tape).  I personally prefer the
> Fizik Microtex tape to cloth, and I've used cloth for around 40 years!
>
> Jim Cloud
> Tucson, AZ
>
> On Jan 3, 3:35 pm, Peter Pesce  wrote:
>
>
>
> > +1 for cheap.
>
> > I like to mess around with parts on my bike, and often need to re-wrap
> > the bars.
> > Cloth is cheap. The shellacking IS a pain, though.
> > I've heard great things about Fizik tape and I might try some next
> > time around.
> > Anyone have any experience with re-using bar tape (Fizik or
> > otherwise?)
>
> > -Pete
>
> > On Jan 3, 4:06 pm, AmiSingh  wrote:
>
> > > Question for the group.
>
> > > It appears as though there is a general overall preference for using
> > > cloth or cork handlebar wrap / grips rather than leather.
>
> > > Why is it so skewed away from leather, especially considering so many
> > > of us try and have our handlebar cloth or cork resemble the leather
> > > saddles on our bikes so closely?
>
> > > Why not just use leather bar wrap?

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[RBW] Re: Tires.... what to buy

2011-01-06 Thread Peter Pesce
I'm glad bictourist asked this question, because I was considering the
exact same thing.

Last thing I'd want on a century or brevet is to be fixing flats all
time but reading about all these "magical" tires I thought I was
riding real dogs with my Paselas, Hearing that Eric did PBP on them I
feel much better!

-Pete

On Jan 6, 12:03 pm, Eric Norris  wrote:
> I'll also weigh in for the Paselas.  I've used them for many epic rides, 
> including PBP '07 (no flats in 765 miles).  I've seen the 700x32 size for 
> sale as low as $8 (annual sale at the UC Davis Bike Barn last year).  
>
> --Eric N
>
> On Jan 6, 2011, at 7:40 AM, bicitourist  wrote:
>
> > Hi everyone, The time has come to get some tires for my new ride.  I've 
> > been running a loaned pair of Schwable Marathon 700x32 @ 80-85psi from my 
> > commuter. I've been running these for a couple of years now with no 
> > problems but I wanted something more supple. New bike = New tires right? I 
> > know I'm giving up some puncture resistance for comfort, but I'm sure there 
> > is a sweet spot out there!   I tried some continental gatorskins 700x28 
> > (but they were too skinny and made my bike feel unstable maybe it was all 
> > those miles on the 32s?). I'm looking for an all-round tire, but most of my 
> > miles are on pavement (I'd say 80%). I'm also planning on my first 200K and 
> > 300K this year!
>
> > From my research it looks like I've narrowed it down to:
>
> > Jack Brown Blue's (I'm 6 ft 215lb so i don't think Greens will do)
> > Pasela Wire bead
> > GB Cypres
>
> > Thanks in advance for the advice! --Eduardo
> > --
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[RBW] Re: Tires.... what to buy

2011-01-06 Thread Peter Pesce
Eric-

In the pics, the folded tire on your rear rack is obviously kevlar
bead - are the tires on the bike wire bead or kevlar? It seems from
what I have found that all kevlar Paselas are TourGuard, but wire bead
Paselas can be TG or non-TG. Just curious which you were riding.

Thanks,

Pete

On Jan 6, 12:38 pm, Eric Norris  wrote:
> Scroll down a bit and you can see my Quickbeam (with Paselas) in some photos 
> taken at the check-in before the start of PBP:  
> http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/articles/p-b-p/0xa12a94c.htm
>
> --Eric N
>
> On Jan 6, 2011, at 9:28 AM, Peter Pesce  wrote:
>
> > I'm glad bictourist asked this question, because I was considering the
> > exact same thing.
>
> > Last thing I'd want on a century or brevet is to be fixing flats all
> > time but reading about all these "magical" tires I thought I was
> > riding real dogs with my Paselas, Hearing that Eric did PBP on them I
> > feel much better!
>
> > -Pete
>
> > On Jan 6, 12:03 pm, Eric Norris  wrote:
> >> I'll also weigh in for the Paselas.  I've used them for many epic rides, 
> >> including PBP '07 (no flats in 765 miles).  I've seen the 700x32 size for 
> >> sale as low as $8 (annual sale at the UC Davis Bike Barn last year).  
>
> >> --Eric N
>
> >> On Jan 6, 2011, at 7:40 AM, bicitourist  wrote:
>
> >>> Hi everyone, The time has come to get some tires for my new ride.  I've 
> >>> been running a loaned pair of Schwable Marathon 700x32 @ 80-85psi from my 
> >>> commuter. I've been running these for a couple of years now with no 
> >>> problems but I wanted something more supple. New bike = New tires right? 
> >>> I know I'm giving up some puncture resistance for comfort, but I'm sure 
> >>> there is a sweet spot out there!   I tried some continental gatorskins 
> >>> 700x28 (but they were too skinny and made my bike feel unstable maybe it 
> >>> was all those miles on the 32s?). I'm looking for an all-round tire, but 
> >>> most of my miles are on pavement (I'd say 80%). I'm also planning on my 
> >>> first 200K and 300K this year!
>
> >>> From my research it looks like I've narrowed it down to:
>
> >>> Jack Brown Blue's (I'm 6 ft 215lb so i don't think Greens will do)
> >>> Pasela Wire bead
> >>> GB Cypres
>
> >>> Thanks in advance for the advice! --Eduardo
> >>> --
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> >>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>
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[RBW] Re: Skewers?

2011-01-08 Thread Peter Pesce
I use VO skewers on my commuter. Truth is, you are only relying on the
skewer to thwart opportunistic thiefs.
If you have a $1500 wheelset that a pro wants, he'll get it. Pitlock
or not. It probably just as easy for them to take the whole bike.
I have QR skewers in my Sam because I often put it in or on vehicles,
and often have my wheels off when I'm messing with bike parts for fun.
They are handy for that.

On Jan 8, 3:52 pm, Travis  wrote:
> I own both Pitlock and VO skewers. There is no comparison of course. I
> don't know why, but the VO skewers have sort of a knurled surface on
> the outside, so it looks like they could be opened with a good set of
> pliers. Also, keys for those hex-pin bolts can be had at most hardware
> stores. I'd say the VO skewer provides just a tad more security than
> an allen bolt skewer. I use mine on a wheel which I wouldn't really
> mind replacing because it's nearing the end of it's useful life
> anyway.
>
> The Pitlock design is really much further advanced than any other
> locking skewers out there. I see two ways to defeat it, but they
> require quite a bit of ingenuity. I live in NYC and use them on a
> decent wheelset. I have enough faith in them that I lock only my frame
> which is tremendously freeing. I carry one of the Pit keys on a large
> key ring with my keys and this gives me just enough torque to adjust
> them if needed. Also, I use them on a bike with horizontal drop-outs
> even though you're not supposed to. It's been holding up fine. Of
> course, this bike has a freewheel - I would not try this with a SS/
> fixed set-up.
>
> Travis

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[RBW] Re: What Makes the Rivendell

2011-01-10 Thread Peter Pesce
I haven't even begun to tap the potential of my Sam, and every time I
think I need a "new" bike I realize I could achieve pretty much what I
want with a wheel or cockpit change on the Sam. Of course, there are
limits to how much wrenching one is willing to do, and I could
certainly see preferring to have multiple bikes set up with different
"personalities", ready to go, space and budget willing of course.

I guess I might need a "hardcore" mountain bike for really gnarly
stuff and boulder-strewn dry riverbeds, but I don't do much of that
anymore. And I'll need a step-through at some point in my life, as I
can imagine old age will someday make lofting my leg over the very
tall (for me, at least) Sam a problem.

But I know I'll never race, or do a self-supported offroad tour across
Mongolia. I have a beater commuter bike, that will probably some-day
get Xtracycled.

A couple weeks ago there was a thread listing the Riv bikes in order,
from most "roady" to most "rough." The Sam was dead center of
everyone's list.

-Pete



On Jan 10, 8:52 am, EricP  wrote:
> Guess that means I have never qualified, as have never been able to
> pass another rider.
>
> Strangely enough, been finding more and more that my Rivendell is the
> most limited (and limiting) bike.  Maybe it's time to move on.
> Somebody is probably going to get a good deal on a built up Sam
> Hillborne soon.
>
> Eric Platt
> St. Paul, MN
>
> On Jan 10, 6:45 am, robert zeidler  wrote:
>
> > +1
>
> > On Sun, Jan 9, 2011 at 11:39 PM, Kelly Sleeper  wrote:
> > > Well this is the "Riv Owners Group" what better place to be snarky?
> > > I say Snark on.. we aren't that thin skinned.
>
> > > Kelly

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[RBW] Re: Do we need a Hillborne Flickr group?

2011-01-20 Thread Peter Pesce
Sounds good to me.

-Pete

On Jan 20, 4:44 am, Earl Grey  wrote:
> Since even the SimpleOne has a group, how about a Hillborne group? If
> there is interest, I am happy to set it up.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Gernot

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[RBW] Re: Do we need a Hillborne Flickr group?

2011-01-20 Thread Peter Pesce
One pic added. Orange, though, not green.

On Jan 20, 11:37 am, Earl Grey  wrote:
> Done. Add your Sam shots to "Rivendell Sam Hillborne" on flickr.com.
> It doesn't show up yet in a group search, but hopefully will soon.
>
> Gernot
>
> On Jan 20, 9:44 pm, Norman  wrote:
>
> > Or you could just have Other Rivendell Model Envy like the rest of us
> > who can't afford to buy every one.
>
> > On Jan 20, 9:23 am, Montclair BobbyB 
> > wrote:
>
> > > Oh gee... now I'm going to have to buy a Hillborne...

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[RBW] Re: Was Toyo versus Waterford Atlantis - now shift to Taiwan question

2011-01-25 Thread Peter Pesce
I have a pretty limited bike budget, so when I bought my Sam last
summer, a $1000 Riv frame was already a stretch, but for a Riv it
seemed like a good buy, and then the idea of getting a lugged steel
frame hand made in the USA for $1250 was VERY compelling. (Ironically,
the double top tube and "indeterminate" delivery date led be to buy a
Taiwan Sam at the end of the day). However, a $1400 price tag probably
would have led me back to the Surly site. I know it seems trifling,
but not all buying decisions are rational.
I sometimes think that Riv causes itself a lot of grief (and they say
as much on their site) with the combination of highly "variable"
sourcing and a high degree of transparency about that sourcing. It's a
necessary evil, of course, and I can appreciate that it's really hard
to meet the price points they are trying to, and live up to their "Buy
American" mantra at every opportunity.

I'll add my voice to the "A Riv is a Riv is a Riv" chorus...

-Pete

On Jan 25, 2:30 am, Benedikt  wrote:
> Just the other day I read on the Riv website that they are raising the
> price of the Waterford Sam's to cover the cost.  I believe it costs
> more for them to have frames built from Waterford.  Not that this
> makes them any better, just that it costs more to have the same
> product built in the U.S.  When I was waiting for my Sam (and waiting,
> and waiting, and waiting) they started the Waterford option.
> Apparently it was taking longer then expected to get the shipment in
> from Taiwan and they worked a deal with Waterford to "catch up".
>
> I wonder if people are willing to pay more for the Waterford's would
> they be willing to pay more for one made in Japan as opposed to
> Taiwan, all quality and everything else being equal?
>
> Although (as I've said before) I love having a product that was made
> in the U.S. I will have to agree with Garth and say that wherever they
> are made all of them are great.
>
> On Jan 23, 10:37 pm, Bob  wrote:
>
> > Following the Taiwan tact of this discussion, the issue of the
> > Hunqapillar build is yet more complicated.  On the Riv site, after
> > describing the wonderous tubing used in its build, it's reported that
> > the fame is made in Taiwan under the direction of Toyo, with the fork
> > made by Toyo, the suppliers of the well regarded fork they provided
> > for their Atlantis. Does this make Toyo the "A" Team, with Taiwan the
> > backup, lower cost,and perhaps lower skill provider?   Is this Toyo/
> > Taiwan collaboration still in place, and is Waterford contributing
> > anything to the project?  Is Waterford limited in what it can do, or
> > do for Riv at a competitive price?  Such production details tend to
> > drift and the Riv site is not always updated in a timely fashion.  I'm
> > impressed by Riv quality and am the happy owner of a first edition
> > green, Taiwan Sam.  These are the kind of esoteric details one asks
> > about products one cares about, and of a culture that invites
> > them.
>
> > On Jan 24, 12:43 am, James Warren  wrote:
>
> > > Well, I don't remember the exact quote, but it was something along the 
> > > lines of Toyo's fork curve being a home run while the curve done by 
> > > Taiwan is a solid double.
>
> > > Puts the Taiwan product in a more positive light, which it deserves. (New 
> > > Hillborne owner talking here!) We're talking about different levels of 
> > > greatness. My Hillborne is a Taiwanese. I also own a Waterford-made AHH  
> > > a Toyo-made Atlantis and I wouldn't advise anyone against getting the one 
> > > made in Taiwan.
>
> > > On Jan 23, 2011, at 11:16 AM, Bob wrote:
>
> > > > Grant has emphasized the special qualities of the Toyo fork and how
> > > > such geometry could not be matched on the Taiwan Sams.  So is the
> > > > Waterford a match or improvement over the Toyo edition?  Also, does
> > > > the Waterford Atlantis have the same impressive chainstay geometry and
> > > > form of the Toyo?  I don't doubt the quality of the Waterford product,
> > > > just differences in production. Put another way, if they were standing
> > > > next to each other, could you tell the difference?  Is there any
> > > > reason for a person to prefer one over the other?
>
> > > > On Jan 22, 11:34 pm, Bob  wrote:
> > > >> How does the Toyo built Atlantis differ in quality and/or geometry
> > > >> from the Waterford edition?  Exclude differences in braze-ons,
> > > >> kickstand plate and range of sizes.
>
> > > >> In other words, what, if anything, was gained or lost by the change in
> > > >> builder?
>
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[RBW] Re: California weather

2011-01-25 Thread Peter Pesce
I tried putting snow tires on the car yesterday to ward off the snow
here in the northeast.
No luck. It's been snowing lightly all day.


On Jan 24, 1:14 pm, rperks  wrote:
> A couple of weeks back, in an attempt to cram fenders and Jack Browns
> onto the Roadeo I finally laid down my $10 and bought a set of
> sheldon's fender nuts.  At first glance and a hand fit, it looks like
> it might fit, tight but fit.  I belive that the fender nuts alone may
> have been enough to trigger the end of the rains, if I contiue the
> fitting of the fenders we may never have rain again.  I probably can
> not take full credit, but will say you're welcome.
>
> Rob "thinking about fenders in a coastal desert" Perks

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[RBW] Re: RBW style bike security

2011-01-25 Thread Peter Pesce
Well, if you want "Riv-ish" bike security I'd say a leather strap, a
piece of wool tweed, and a few zip ties would do the trick :-p

-Pete

On Jan 25, 1:56 pm, Minh  wrote:
> So, still too darn cold outside for me but dreaming of spring.  As my
> Hillborne is my first 'nice' bike in forever i've been thinking about
> bike lock options strategies.  I'm asking the collective because part
> of me things, "hey this is a nice looking bike better protect it."
> and another part of me is saying "hey, this ain't no go-fast flashy
> bike, it's not a target."  so i'm trying to resolve how much i should
> really worry about locking it up, strategies etc.
>
> In the past i've always just used a simple cable lock, but that's been
> on my cruiser (which while it looks really nice, i didn't consider it
> a theft risk).  As my Hillborne has a few expensive things on it (phil
> rear wheel, nitto racks, etc) i'm a little more inclined to be more
> careful, so what are people's approaches?  U-lock the rear wheel+bike
> to post and then cable to the front wheel?  dual u-locks?  Please keep
> in mind that i need to carry all the locks as well so something like a
> kryptonite nyc chain lock is out of the question.
>
> If it helps this is for around town riding and that would mostly be in
> and around Washington DC but mostly the suburbs of DC.

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[RBW] Re: NYC Five Boro Tour May 1 - Registration Open

2011-02-03 Thread Peter Pesce
I had the same experience as hobie. Did it twice when it was called
Bike New York and discovered it was more like Hike New York.
The bottlenecks created lengthy periods where you just had get off and
walk your bike in a crowd. I think it took 7 hours to complete the 42
mile ride.
There are some very memorable moments, though.

-Pete

On Feb 2, 10:17 pm, hobie  wrote:
> Be prepared for alot more cyclist than 20 years ago. I did it also in
> the early 80's and it was fun then.Might have been 12,000 cyclist
> then. 30,000 plus now. Tried it again in the mid 90's. That wasn't as
> much fun. I had to get off and walk my bike at several locations
> because of the amount of cyclist trying to get onto a bridge from
> manhattan to the bronx. If you can ride at a fast pace the best place
> to be is at the front. I think there are VIP tickets now that put you
> at the front for $125.00 although you would be missing the hugh herd
> of cyclist in the middle of the pack.Pros and cons. If you are heading
> back on the ferry into manhattan be prepared for a long wait on the SI
> side. For me the highlight is riding in Brooklyn on the BQE and
> approaching the Verrazano bridge. It's a monster of a bridge. Being a
> native new yorker you are usually in a car driving that rode. Lots of
> fun
>
> On Feb 2, 8:36 pm, Montclair BobbyB  wrote:
>
> > I did this ride about 20 years ago, and it was a blast... Now I can't
> > wait to do it again for a few reasons:
>
> > - I'll be riding my Bombadil
> > - My friend from Healdsburg CA is coming East to join me and a bunch
> > of friends
> > - This will be Day 2 of "May Bike Week" for me, which will consist of
> > the best mix of riding I'll ever do over 9 days (ie epic mountain
> > biking, a S24O, Bike n Brew NYC and the New Amsterdam Bike Show, AND
> > finishing up with Riv Rally East May 6-8!!!)
>
> > I will be watching for other Rivendells and classic bikes ... amidst
> > the masses... over 30,000 riders... yikes!
>
> > Let me know if you plan to do this ride...
>
> > BB

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[RBW] Re: New Touring Wheelset question

2011-02-04 Thread Peter Pesce
I put 36h RhynoLites on my commuter and they are almost absurdly
strong. I'm 240, with a heavy, old steel MTB and a commuting load, and
I regularly have to ride off curbs on a part of my route that is along
a road under construction. No problem whatsoever on these rims.

A 48h might as well be made out of solid aluminum!

-Pete

On Feb 3, 9:15 pm, JoelMatthews  wrote:
> > I use the 26" RhynoLite on my own touring bike, 48h rear and 40h front.
>
> Cool!  I weigh 155 or so and carry moderate loads touring.  But I love
> the look and security riding on 40h rims.  The only 48h Maxicar hubs I
> could find were tandem width, otherwise I would have liked to have a
> 48h rear wheel as well.
>
> On Feb 3, 6:18 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
> wrote:
>
> > There is no practical tire width limitation. I have many times run 2" or
> > bigger tires on rims 24 mm or slightly narrower. If you need rims, I have a
> > shocking number of 26" 40h rims, mostly Velocity Aeroheat (black) and Sun
> > RhynoLite (polished silver). I use the 26" RhynoLite on my own touring bike,
> > 48h rear and 40h front.

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[RBW] Re: VO/Rivendell Cross Blog Post

2011-02-04 Thread Peter Pesce
Can anything sum up the two shops better than the "soap swap"?

"Grant gave me a bar of the pine tar soap he sells. I can't say I was
taken by the scent, reminiscent of a forest fire, though it's very
very effective and definitely manly.  I sent Grant a chunk of Savon de
Marseille, an artisanal and traditional French olive oil based soap."


On Feb 4, 10:42 am, Michael_S  wrote:
> Certainly both Riv and VO try to find their own niches in this small
> part of the cycling business, but I find a lot of commonality between
> the two.  I think Grant seems to favor the tried and true proven stuff
> while VO seems to like to experiment with new versions using cheaper
> Taiwanese mfgers
>
> ~Mike
>
> On Feb 4, 5:55 am, JoelMatthews  wrote:
>
> > > Jitensha is actually pre-Rivendell, so if anything, Rivendell is a "Me
> > > too Jitensha". :)
> > > Grant wrote somewhere that he used to hang out at Jitensha, and that
> > > was where he knew "Pineapple Bob" of the Bridgestone catalog fame.
>
> > That is my understanding.
>
> > The BOBs may have to chime in here, but I always thought Bridgestone
> > in the Grant years was trying to translate at scale what the small,
> > Francophile Japanese shops (such as Toei) Jitensha championed were
> > doing.
>
> > On Feb 3, 8:55 pm, benzzoy  wrote:
>
> > > On Feb 3, 1:08 pm, JoelMatthews  wrote:
>
> > > > Jitensha should not be included in a list of me too Riv companies.
>
> > > > Jitensha has been around for quite some time, possibly longer than
> > > > Riv, though I am not certain on that.
>
> > > Jitensha is actually pre-Rivendell, so if anything, Rivendell is a "Me
> > > too Jitensha". :)
>
> > > Grant wrote somewhere that he used to hang out at Jitensha, and that
> > > was where he knew "Pineapple Bob" of the Bridgestone catalog fame.
>
> > > -B- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: new sweaters/vests

2011-02-06 Thread Peter Pesce

I've gotta think there's more than a little blind faith in action
here. A vest is not a shirt with the arms chopped off, as a post above
noted.  Properly designing a piece of clothing requires real skill and
experience. No less than properly designing a bicycle frame. And
nothing says that doing one well qualifies you at all for doing the
other well.
My only experience with Riv clothing is pair of Musa shorts, and the
quality of design and construction of those was Old Navy caliber, at
best. I think Riv makes some of the best bike stuff in the world for
it's intended purpose. I think they are at their weakest in their
efforts to expand Rivendell into a "lifestyle" brand.

On Feb 5, 5:57 pm, dean899  wrote:
> Good to see them make a return.  I've been trying to get the vest and
> long sleeve sweater off the list here and now have one of each(yeah).
> My only gripe is the fact the the old last version was knit off
> center!   The pockets were not centered and the cardigan was a mess
> with the buttons centered on my chest at the top but the bottom of the
> sweater had the buttons at my right hip.  Hope there is quality
> control on this batch!
>
> On Feb 5, 4:45 pm, JoelMatthews  wrote:
>
>
>
> > > Made in England, same guys making them,
>
> > That is good to know.  From the RR piece on them a few years back they
> > came across as the kind of wonderfully eccentric crafts people that
> > you can still meet every now and then in rural UK.  I was afraid they
> > had retired or gone out of business or something.
>
> > On Feb 5, 10:26 am, grant  wrote:
>
> > > There are some bluish strands of wool, so I'd say at least some of the
> > > wool is from Swaledales that are kin to the one show below. Made in
> > > England, same guys making them, and I'll get the skinny on the rest of
> > > the wool. It is "far from merino." Some kind of wirey, wolf-proof
> > > sheep, I'm sure.
>
> > > G
>
> > > On Feb 5, 5:06 am, JoelMatthews  wrote:
>
> > > > Not sure, but you see these Swaledale sheep everywhere in the UK:
>
> > > >http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikip...
>
> > > > The earlier version of the sweater was made by a small outfit in
> > > > England.
>
> > > > On Feb 4, 11:32 pm, Seth Vidal  wrote:
>
> > > > >http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news_post/324
>
> > > > > For the rivhq gang - does anyone know the type of sheep the wool comes
> > > > > from?  Inquiring minds (like my knitting significant other) want to
> > > > > know.
>
> > > > > I'm curious where they're being made.
>
> > > > > Love the ben franklin sweater. Will probably buy 2 of them just for 
> > > > > me.
>
> > > > > -sv- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Blog post about tubing for AHH

2011-02-10 Thread Peter Pesce
About newenglandbike's wood analogy, I think a more accurate analogy
might be that knowing the TYPE of wood is important, but knowing the
BRAND is probably not. You certainly want to know your house is being
built of a certain grade and species, but whether that wood comes from
Weyerhauser or Georgia-Pacific makes no difference.
To bring this back OT, it makes complete sense to want to know that
your bike is made of good material. In Riv's case, many of us are fine
with Grant's "trust me, it's good." But I think many riders have a
legitimate desire to know more. You may have found you like the ride
of bikes with certain tubing specs (though I doubt one could discern
between brands with the same specs) and as mentioned above one may
have specific concerns about durability or other things.
As I have said before, Riv/Grant only seem to end up creating grief
for themselves when they share too much - the confusion around the
multi-ethnic Sam Hillbornes being only the latest example. It goes
against their "pay no attention to the man behind the curtain" message
- find a builder you trust, trust them (it's good), and just get out
and ride.
Maybe Grant is the "Wizard of Walnut Creek"? ;-)

-Pete

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[RBW] Re: Computers? No computers?

2011-02-15 Thread Peter Pesce
I am also a sometime-user. I like knowing distance, and my phone does
not get a reliable signal in the areas I ride, so map apps don't work
all the time.

I have a Knog Nerd computer that I like mostly because it's very easy
on/off, so I only need to have it on the bike when going for longer
rides, and not around town, etc.

cm- I use the rear wheel/seatpost trick with my computer when the bike
is on the trainer. The only trick was getting the sensor close enough
to the spoke magnet - the seat stays are much farther from the spokes
than the fork blades.

-Pete

On Feb 15, 12:53 pm, cm  wrote:
> I am a sometimes-computer user. I dont really have an issue with not
> knowing the speed but not knowing the distance is tough for me. I
> usually go to mapmyride.com to get the distance.
>
> I am going to try to mount the computer to the seatpost but havent
> yet-- then I would have all the info after the ride but none of the
> distraction during the ride. Anyone tried this? Curious if wireless or
> cable would be the way to go. Could you use the back wheel?
>
> Cheers!
> cm

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[RBW] Re: Stem Mounted Shifters?

2011-02-17 Thread Peter Pesce
I was trying to find something like this a while back, with no luck. I
even asked Chris at VO if they would consider producing some kind of
stem mount for the silver shifters. He said they had considered it,
but it was way down the list of things they are planning to do.

Best bet would be to find an old stem shift clamp that uses the same
bosses as the current production silvers.

I've even thought about trying to retrofit downtubes to my Sam,
without brazing bosses on. Nothing exists for a 31.8mm downtube,
though, and I don't have the skills/tools to fabricate anything that
would look decent.

-Pete

On Feb 17, 11:28 am, jsk  wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Just wondering if anyone knows of a manufacturer making modern, well
> built stem mounted shifters anymore (or ever)? You know, like the type
> that used come standard on Schwinn Collegiate bikes and the like?
>
> I mean, considering the devotion to upright bars here ...

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[RBW] Re: Dyno headlight mounting for Hillborne?

2011-02-18 Thread Peter Pesce

I mount my battery Ixon to the front tab as others above described. I
wouldn't rule this out just because some engineering intution says it
is "bad."
It eliminates wheel shadow, and places the light at approximately the
height of a for crown mount , which the optics were designed for
( according to PJW).
It's no more vulnerable than side rack mounts. If you have a small
rack bag you can even mount the bracket "backwards" so it angles up
and back rather than up and foreward. This makes the installation feel
a bit more "compact" if that helps. Sorry, hard to describe but I
don't have a pic.
Just my 2c

Pete
On Feb 18, 2:47 am, Bob  wrote:
> Thanks!  My first thought for attaching the Cyo was to try Benedikt's
> simple solution of attachment via the provided bracket to the hole at
> the front of the mini-rack.  There is a lot to be said for
> simplicity.  It's simple and the price is right!  However, it seems
> mechanically inelegant to have the light at the end of a long stem
> subject to increased vibrations and accidental knocks. Not much
> bracket extension is necessary to get beyond the end of the small
> Sackville trunksack. The noted options including fork mount via a
> Gino's light mount, or attachment to the side of the rack, especially
> with a shorter, more rigid replacement for the stock Cyo bracket are
> desirable, but I think I'll start with "simple."  Anyone find the
> front of the mini-rack an unacceptable attachment point for a Cyo?
>
> Bob
>
> On Feb 18, 1:40 am, Benedikt  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Did you say you currently have a front Nitto mini-rack?  How large is
> > the Sackville bag?  Does the bag extend out beyond the rack?  If not
> > just mount it to the front of the rack like this 
> > -http://www.flickr.com/photos/neutralbuoyancy/5219194791/in/set-721576..
>
> > On Feb 17, 12:01 pm, Bob  wrote:
>
> > > I plan to mount a dyno headlight to my fendered V-brake Sam, probably
> > > an Edelux or IQ Cyo.  I will drive it with a Son 28.  A front Nitto
> > > mini-rack and frequently mounted small Sackville bag constrains the
> > > desirable fork crown mounting position.  The best but less elegant
> > > mounting options seem to the the Albatros bars near the stem, front or
> > > side of the mini-rack, or the forks.  Suggestions about mounting site
> > > and hardware are invited, including what is not recommended..  I have
> > > visited Peter White's formidable site, but there is no substitute for
> > > specific solutions for a specific problem.
>
> > > Bob

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[RBW] Re: AR front brake shudder and fork flex

2011-02-19 Thread Peter Pesce

+1 for the fork crown hanger. Simplest fix.


On Feb 19, 12:36 pm, William  wrote:
> This topic comes up repeatedly.  The discussions typically focus on
> treatment, which is natural, because you just want the thing to go
> away.  But understanding the cause is usually helpful in figuring out
> the treatment.  The cause is as follows:
>
> You grab your front brake, which tries to stop the wheel rotating.
> The road is pushing back on your tire and your body's forward momentum
> is pushing forward on the front hub.  This moment tries to bend back
> the front fork.  You can do this part for yourself in the garage.
> Lock up the front brake and push forward on the bike.  Everyone with
> me?  Cool.
>
> Now look at the cable.  The length of cable going from the hanger down
> to the brake is hanging in space in FRONT of the fork which is flexing
> BACK.  The distance the cable spans is increasing, effectively making
> the cable shorter, which is going to tighten the front brake, the same
> way tightening your grip would have.  This makes the force at the fork
> greater, flexing it more, tightening the brake more, and so on.  This
> is a positive feedback that only stops when something lets go, and on
> the road, the thing that lets go is the road/tire interface.  The tire
> momentarily lets go of the road, and the fork springs back forward
> which loosens the brake.  When the tire hits the ground again it
> starts up all over again.
>
> This is the process, and it's not as well known as it should be.
> Forks with more flex and grabbier brakes exacerbate this.  Extreme toe
> in techniques work because they make the brakes less grabby.  Others
> have success with other brake pad compounds.  I ran ceramic rims on a
> cross bike for just this reason, since ceramics and their associated
> green brake pads offer a very smoothly modulating brake surface.  They
> almost never grab.  A brake booster would only help to the extent that
> it keeps toed in pads from flattening out.  In that way, the booster
> kind of acts as a de-booster, since it keeps the brakes from being too
> powerful.
>
> The thing that is common to most of our Rivendells is an extremely
> tall head tube and consequently a really long cable run from hanger to
> brake.  The other very common technique to address this is to make
> that run of cable as short as possible by using a fork crown hanger.
> Now most of that cable run down to the hanger is housing, which flexes
> along with the fork and doesn't tighten the cable.  I put a crown
> hanger on the Bombadil for exactly this reason.  Mounting the hanger
> here takes any flex of the steerer and the crown out of the equation.
> It's now only flexing of the blades from the crown down to the brake
> posts that will feed into the tightening/flexing/tightening
> feedback.
>
> One of the old sages wrote on this on the internet.  I don't remember
> if it was Jobst or Qvale or another one of the masters.  That's where
> I learned about it.  Here's a photo of that hanger setup:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/5236889932/
>
> On Feb 19, 6:27 am, Ray Shine  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Jim -- Disregard prior request for follow-up comment (unless you don't 
> > mind).  I
> > think I understand now after reading the Shelson piece several times.  
> > Thanks
> > for the link.
>
> > 
> > From: CycloFiend 
> > To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> > Sent: Fri, February 18, 2011 11:56:27 PM
> > Subject: Re: [RBW] AR front brake shudder and fork flex
>
> > on 2/18/11 7:09 PM, rw1911 at rw1...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> > > I've recently installed Paul brakes (neo-retro front, touring rear) on
> > > my relatively new to me 700c All-Rounder.  The rears are wonderful, if
> > > not too powerful...  I can skid at will.  However, I'm experiencing
> > > extreme shudder and fork flex on the front.
>
> > > The headset is tight and the pads are toe'd to contact forward. Under
> > > low to medium speed braking, I can see/feel  the fork flex (a lot!)
> > > and shudder.  The straddle cable is set at about the top third of the
> > > lower headset cup.  I've cleaned the rim and while it has gotten
> > > slightly better with use, is this a matter of adjustment or is the neo-
> > > retro too powerful?
>
> > This has cropped up on CX boards (and maybe iBob - too late to skim the
> > archives there). The working theory (which seems pretty salient) is that
> > flex in the hanger tends causing the shuddering.
>
> > There's really two separate issues going on - the fork flex you are seeing
> > and the shuddering of the brakes. With averagely strong brakes, you will
> > generally see some flexing of the blades. More than likely, you don't notice
> > it until the shuddering starts, but the two aren't necessarily linked.
>
> > Take a look at the thickness of the hanger - if it's a less expensive
> > stamped piece, you might try a thicker part. Also, pay attention to the fit
> > of the ferrule on the cable end. If 

[RBW] Re: On shipping bike parts to our two finest states

2011-02-19 Thread Peter Pesce

Grant
For us east-coasters, would it be possible to at least offer the
option of USPS?
It's not a matter of cost as much as speed, at least for me, though it
seems like anything I order costs $15 to ship, regardless, and paying
for express shipping us a deal-killer.
The real killer us that UPS is seven full days from CA to CT. That
means if I decide I want or need something on a weekend and order it
online, it ships that Monday but I don't even receive it in time for
the next weekend, as it arrives the Monday after the Monday it ships.
USPS is usually about 3 days coast to coast for reasonable size
things.
Just a thought. I'd like to buy more from Riv but I'm an instant
gratification kind of guy!
Pete
On Feb 18, 7:00 pm, grant  wrote:
> UPS charges us $8.08 for under-a-pound boxes to major metropolitan
> areas in California. If you live in a van down by the river, it costs
> (us) more. A typical box weight here is 5 pounds. To the midwest, it
> costs (us) about $11. Alaska and Hawaii cost more, for sure.
>
> I wish we could get around UPS, but the other companies (FedX, USPS)
> either charge more or don't have tracking. Plus, the shippers are now
> super close buddies with Barry, our UPS guy, and even if FEDX got
> cheaper, it would take quite the Venezuelan FedX account manageress to
> get Robert and Vaughn to voluntarily, willingly, switch from UPS. It's
> not impossible, but unlikely.
>
> Our flat rate of $8 is below our cost, but in my head I'm still a 13-
> year old ordering from L.L. Bean and paying nothing. Still, we may
> have to raise rates. The thing of it is, we don't sell anything ending
> in a 9, and that's what a dollar increase would be. Another dollar,
> and it's into the double-digits, which seems a lot higher. Eight is
> magic here, for now.
> G

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[RBW] Re: On shipping bike parts to our two finest states

2011-02-20 Thread Peter Pesce

Don't misunderstand, I have no problem with UPS, USPS, or Fedex and
use them all frequently.
I was only commenting that in my specific case of living on the east
coast and wanting to buy more from Riv, and how having more options
would help. I get UPS orders overnight from Harris Cyclery and USPS
and Fedex ground overnight from VO, so that influences my purchasing
decisions.

Pete
On Feb 20, 10:41 am, Kelly Sleeper  wrote:
> I for one have had great success with UPS.  They deliver to my door.  Which
> why they wouldn't in Chicago but will in St Louis is confusing.
> Being able to track the shipment and such has worked well.  
>
>  I'm not really all that Pro or Con UPS just figured they are are better in
> my opinion than the basing they seem to be taking on this thread.
>
> Kelly

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[RBW] Re: waxing chains--how hot the wax?

2011-02-22 Thread Peter Pesce
Check out EcoVelo - Alan has several posts on the how-to's and why-
to's of waxing.

-Pete

On Feb 22, 4:45 am, Earl Grey  wrote:
> Surprised I didn't find the definitive answer in the archives, or a
> riv reader for that matter.
>
> The 1992 Bridgestone catalogue mentions using a double boiler, thus
> 212 Fahrenheit max.
>
> Riv Reader Vol 1 Issue 1 says Grant uses a 400 F bath, and says the
> flash point is 425 F. Also says don't do this at home (liability
> reasons, one assumes).
>
> So, what do the extra 188 F get you? Lower viscosity and better
> penetration? Has anyone found this to matter, or has anyone the
> necessary scientific background to theorize upon the topic?
>
> Winter here is bone dry season, so it seems like the time to finally
> try wax after 20 years of cycling.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Gernot

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[RBW] Re: 60cm "Maxway" Hillborne Photos

2010-07-29 Thread Peter Pesce
Great! Now I don't have to post pics of MY bike!

Except for a SuginoXD2/Shimano LX Drivetrain with bar-ends and an
Imperial saddle it's the same.

I was going for a classic 70's/80's road bike look, so I actually like
the fact that these Sam's have side-pulls.

I'm sure the Ultegra group is fantastic, but I'm just still not crazy
about the look of the crank.

-Pete

On Jul 29, 7:55 am, "Bryan @ Renaissance Bicycles"
 wrote:
> I've added a few pictures of a recently built 60cm "Maxway" Hillborne
> to our RB Gallery.  This is a just arrived "2010" frameset from
> Taiwan, hence the lack of canti mounts.
>
> http://www.renaissancebicycles.com/gallery/rb-gallery-1/
>
> Yes, this is an Ultegra 6700 bike ... the latest iteration of the
> Ultegra line -- this time in "ice grey".  A  few retrogrouches might
> balk at the customer's drivetrain selection, but after test riding the
> bike for a few miles, I certainly couldn't complain about the crisp
> shifting.
>
> Just let me know if you have any questions about the details of the
> build.
>
> Bryan

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[RBW] Re: 60cm "Maxway" Hillborne Photos

2010-07-29 Thread Peter Pesce
As far as I can tell the "decorative" elements of the lugs are a bit
different on these Sams from the previous orange models.
And, much to my chagrin, the water bottle bosses on the seat tube are
mounted much lower- so low that the FD clamps between them.
Kind of ridiculous for a 60cm frame.

On Jul 29, 10:18 am, Michael_S  wrote:
> looks like these bikes have a different fork crown than the prior
> canti models.  nice looking bike , that orange is just right ( I have
> one)... and I agree those cranksets are not my preference.
>
> ~Mike~
>
> On Jul 29, 7:08 am, Peter Pesce  wrote:
>
> > Great! Now I don't have to post pics of MY bike!
>
> > Except for a SuginoXD2/Shimano LX Drivetrain with bar-ends and an
> > Imperial saddle it's the same.
>
> > I was going for a classic 70's/80's road bike look, so I actually like
> > the fact that these Sam's have side-pulls.
>
> > I'm sure the Ultegra group is fantastic, but I'm just still not crazy
> > about the look of the crank.
>
> > -Pete
>
> > On Jul 29, 7:55 am, "Bryan @ Renaissance Bicycles"
>
> >  wrote:
> > > I've added a few pictures of a recently built 60cm "Maxway" Hillborne
> > > to our RB Gallery.  This is a just arrived "2010" frameset from
> > > Taiwan, hence the lack of canti mounts.
>
> > >http://www.renaissancebicycles.com/gallery/rb-gallery-1/
>
> > > Yes, this is an Ultegra 6700 bike ... the latest iteration of the
> > > Ultegra line -- this time in "ice grey".  A  few retrogrouches might
> > > balk at the customer's drivetrain selection, but after test riding the
> > > bike for a few miles, I certainly couldn't complain about the crisp
> > > shifting.
>
> > > Just let me know if you have any questions about the details of the
> > > build.
>
> > > Bryan- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: 60cm "Maxway" Hillborne Photos

2010-07-29 Thread Peter Pesce
Thanks William.
That's the first reasonable explanation I've heard for that "design
choice."

-Pete

On Jul 29, 2:56 pm, William  wrote:
> Design flaw?  No.  Design choice with which some will disagree?
> Yes.
>
> Many cages clear the FD without standoffs...the King Cage Riv sells
> being my favorite
>
> For every frame with a low mount seat tube H2O setup, there's an
> observer pointing out that it's unnecessarily harder to reach
> For every frame with a high mount seat tube H2O setup, there's an
> observer pointing out that it's unnecessarily harder to shoulder the
> bike
>
> Being able to easily reach the seat tube H2O bottle in my mind would
> only be important if you needed two different beverage choices while
> riding.  Otherwise it's easy-access on the downtube and backup water
> on the seattube.  Swap them out when the downtube one is empty.  What
> it gets you is extra space in the frame for a bag or for shouldering
> the bike.
>
> Low-mount H2O bosses have screwed me up a few times when I've wanted
> to use a 'low-clamp' front derailleur.
>
> On Jul 29, 11:39 am, Rob Harrison  wrote:
>
> > Agreed Peter, having the FD mount between the bosses does seem like a  
> > design flaw, on any size frame. I suppose you could use spacers to hop  
> > over the derailleur clamp. It'll be tough to reach down that far to  
> > grab the bottle while riding. Why not have it higher? Something I'm  
> > missing?
>
> > Rob in Seattle
>
> > On Jul 29, 2010, at 7:24 AM, Peter Pesce wrote:
>
> > > And, much to my chagrin, the water bottle bosses on the seat tube are
> > > mounted much lower- so low that the FD clamps between them.
> > > Kind of ridiculous for a 60cm frame.

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[RBW] Re: A tale of two Hillbornes

2010-08-04 Thread Peter Pesce
Having just bought one, I can say the versatility and quality for the
price point certainly explains some of the popularity!


On Aug 4, 3:26 pm, Seth Vidal  wrote:
> On Wed, Aug 4, 2010 at 3:22 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
>
>  wrote:
> >http://hiawathacyclery.blogspot.com/2010/08/versatile-sam-hillborne.html
>
> Are hillborne sales still going strong? There sure seem to be a lot of
> them showing up on flickr! :)
>
> -sv

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[RBW] WTB - Silver Hupe

2010-08-24 Thread Peter Pesce
I'm willing to sign a disclaimer for anyone who wants to part with an
un-loved Hupe!

Thanks,
Pete

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[RBW] Re: WTB - Silver Hupe

2010-08-25 Thread Peter Pesce
I thoroughly understand all the issues with them, but if somebody paid
Riv $30 for it, I don't expect to get it for free.
I'd just rather not pay $34 (!!!) plus shipping for new one!



On Aug 25, 1:27 pm, GeorgeS  wrote:
> I gave mine away.  Anyone who sells one of those things needs to take
> a long look at themselves in a mirror.
>
> On Aug 24, 10:04 am, Peter Pesce  wrote:
>
>
>
> > I'm willing to sign a disclaimer for anyone who wants to part with an
> > un-loved Hupe!
>
> > Thanks,
> > Pete- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: MKS Touring Pedal

2010-08-31 Thread Peter Pesce
My understanding is that almost all inexpensive pedals are assembled
only for ease of transport.
If you just assume you have to re-pack them with grease before
installation, they'll be fine for a long time.

I just put VO Touring pedals on my Sam. I've only got 50 miles on
them, so I can't comment on the durablity of their sealed bearings.


>
> Do any of you use similar width pedals that are better?  I don't mind
> spending more money because, since I've got this bike, I'm not riding
> anything else.  It handles everything I ride on.
>
> John
>

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[RBW] Re: 1 Toptube or 2 -- Comparing the Two Versions of the Hillborne

2010-09-01 Thread Peter Pesce
I really don't know why Riv has to go and make multiple different
versions of this bike.
Yes, I know the only answer that matters is "because Grant wants to"
but even HE has to expend lots of unnecessary energy explaining to
people why one version is, allegedly, as good as the other.
Just when he convinces people that Taiwan-made bikes are "real"
Rivendells he goes and has them made by Waterford. He puts different
forks and brakes on them, even different forks on the Maxway bikes-
Alan at EcoVelo has a 60cm Maxway Sam with cantis and what will, now,
forever hence be known as the "nice" fork; I have a 60cm Maxway Sam
with sidepulls and what will forever hence be known as the "crappy"
fork.
Maybe I'm just not used to this way of doing business, being a Riv
rookie...




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[RBW] Re: 1 Toptube or 2 -- Comparing the Two Versions of the Hillborne

2010-09-01 Thread Peter Pesce
Sorry, I was being intentionally melodramatic with the "crappy"
comment! Poor choice of words.

I have been exceedingly happy with my bike, my first Riv, and actually
had the option of getting a Waterford frame at the time. I liked the
sidepulls and single top tube, so I took the Maxway. No complaints.
But, honestly, seeing the two forks side by side I can't see much of a
difference in the proportions - obviously an untrained eye.
The crown on the Maxway bike does look a bit simplified, maybe a bit
chunkier.
I guess as I get a little more familiar with how Riv works I'll see
that the constant tinkering is a feature, not a bug!



On Sep 1, 5:33 pm, cm  wrote:
> I dont think calling it a  "crappy fork" is fair. I have a Bleriot
> (obviously Taiwanese) and I dont think there is a crappy thing about
> it. Riv had supply problems with taiwan and needed another builder. G
> goes into it in some detail on the site. Seems like a new builder
> would be a great time to try some things you've been thinking of
> tryin', like a double top tube and canti's-- especially if it is a
> temporary arrangement. I dont think it makes one bike better than the
> other, just a little different.
>
> It does stink that it makes you think less of your bike and I can
> certainly understand that-- but at the end of the day it is the same
> great bike it was when you bought it. Would I trade my Bleriot for a
> double- TT, waterford SH? In a second with no hesitation but that
> doesn't make me less happy with my bike. If it did I would sell it to
> fund the SH.
>
> The Saluki came with different brakes. So did the Rom. The Atlantis
> has changed some over the years. Some customs were made by Richard
> Sachs (drool!), Brakes change, braze ons change, kickstand plates get
> added, some bikes get a bonus TT, some get a diagon-apillar, some made
> by maxway, some by toyo, some by waterford-- but they are all Rivs and
> all great bikes.
>
> Cheers,
> cm

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[RBW] Re: Hillborne + SRAM Apex

2010-09-03 Thread Peter Pesce
The orange cable housing is a nice touch!


On Sep 3, 11:27 am, "Bryan @ Renaissance Bicycles"
 wrote:
> Just in case you were wondering about the destiny of the Orange
> HIllbornes framesets we compared the other day, the single top-tuber
> is now done:
>
> http://www.renaissancebicycles.com/gallery/rb-gallery-1/
>
> Ron wanted to try out the new SRAM Apex group for his almost-daily
> bike path ride.  He'll add fenders and his own Brooks saddle soon.
>
> And yes, ATMO the Apex group is as good as the Shimano 105.
>
> Bryan

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[RBW] Re: wheel shipping

2010-09-05 Thread Peter Pesce
It's pretty much $20 per wheel. You pay "dimensional weight" in most
cases, so it doesn't matter that they weigh nothing.
Just shipped 2 wheels Portland OR to CT and it was $40.

On Sep 5, 12:39 am, Seth Vidal  wrote:
> Since I'm sure some of y'all on this list have done it. What's it
> normally cost to pack and ship a wheel across the country? Let's say
> from the east coast to the west coast. Anyone done it recently?
>
> thanks,
>
> -sv

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[RBW] Re: Super-spongy brakes on my AHH - any help?

2010-09-14 Thread Peter Pesce
Adam-
I'll throw in my 2 cents.
Ideally, every bit of force you apply to the lever should be
transmitted to the brake pad.

Any part of your system that flexes is actually indicating a place
where your efforts are being used to bend metal, and are not making it
to the pads. (Cable or pivot friction and cable stretch are other
places where you can be "robbed" without it being visible.)

I'd replace the cable hanger first of all if it flexes that much.

The brakes themselves may have some flex, but shouldn't result in a
non-functional brake system. My Tektro 556's flex a lot, but can still
stop me (240 lbs) on my Sam pretty well.

If you suspect your levers - try this. Take an old brake cable (you'll
trash it, so don't use your good one)  and feed it through your lever
like normal. Where it exits the lever housing, wrap it around a dowel
so the cable is taut and the dowel is tight to the lever body. Get it
as tight as possible - the idea is to have no play. Squeeze the lever.
It should be rock solid. If it moves at all, something is wrong in the
lever assembly.

As others have said - re-cable the bike using a top quality cable and
housing like Jagwire. This will eliminate bad cable or housing as a
possible culprit.

-Pete

On Sep 13, 5:21 pm, Adam Kimball  wrote:
> Wow, I'm not having much luck in the brake department with my new
> ride.  I set up my Hilsen with Silver brakes and found that they
> simply wouldn't stop me - I could have both levers to the tape and
> still roll.  So, I changed to Paul Racer's on the advice of my LBS and
> found that the situation really isn't much better.  Here is where my
> thinking is at:
>
> * I'm seeing a lot of flex in the brakes themselves and at the cable
> hangers.  The rear brake is worse than the front (as is usually the
> case) but I suspect the inline barrel adjuster and the rear cable
> hanger (light-weight aluminum one that hangs of the seat-post bolt) is
> flexing too much.
>
> * I've brought the yokes up pretty high - I can get them higher, but
> not much.  So, I'm not certain this is the problem.
>
> * Brake-pads are the standard black Kool-Stops and I would have to
> assume they are not the problem
>
> * My Dura-Ace brake levers are incredibly squishy.  This is one piece
> of the equation that is common to both setups (Silvers & Racers).  The
> Racer brakes are indeed short-pull so those road levers should be fine
> - but I've suspected them before.
>
> Another mechanic took a look at the brakes and road the bike today.
> He agreed that the brakes are massively under performing.  He thought
> that a "travel agent" might help to pull more cable.  He also wanted
> to re-cable since I cut the rear cable a little short.  He wanted me
> to find out if Paul makes a stiffener that attaches to the calipers.
>
> Does anyone have any other ideas for me?  I don't have another AHH to
> ride, so it is hard for me to know just how bad my brakes are.  Keven
> at Rivendell didn't think the Racer's are much better than the Silvers
> for braking (and he has a pair on his Hilsen) and so he wondered what
> the other problem might be.
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Adam

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[RBW] Re: Does your Rivendell have lawyer lips?

2010-09-20 Thread Peter Pesce
I will have to go check, but I'm pretty sure my last of the line
Taiwan Sam has them.
Doesn't bother me, I don't have the front wheel off much.

On Sep 20, 7:11 pm, William  wrote:
> Neither my Hillborne nor my Bombadil has lawyer lips.  My wife's Yves
> Gomez.I forget.  I'll check.  I noticed in the youtube video on
> how to install the Nitto Big Front rack that it look like that Big
> Bomba with the winged fork tips does have lawyer lips.  Does yours?
> Do you care one way or the other?
>
> On one hand I'm glad that my Hillborne doesn't have them, because I
> take the front wheel off really often to put it on the roof rack.  On
> the other hand, I'm nervous that my Hillborne doesn't have them,
> because I'm afraid that the roof rack QR skewer won't hold the bike
> tightly enough.  What a dilemma!

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[RBW] Re: Speaking of the garage sale,

2010-09-28 Thread Peter Pesce
I'm an east coaster, too, and feel terribly descriminated against! ;-)

How about this - ship a crate of random stuff to each your dealers
around the country and let them sell it on the same terms. Might be a
good way for them to generate some extra traffic into their shops
too.
While not perfect, it would be something.
(I'm sure the shop owners here could weigh in on the idea...)

-Pete

On Sep 28, 8:40 am, John Bennett  wrote:
> CM:
>
> While we would like to do a Virtual Garage Sale, the reality is that
> it would probably be impossible.
>
> To be fair to the Virtual Buyers, the sort of stuff that we sell at
> the Actual Garage Sale would require extensive photographs; written
> descriptions; determinations and disclaimers about the condition,
> variations, and imperfections of the items; the creation of new part
> numbers, etc., and other inestimable considerations to make it as fair
> and customer-friendly to you, and as manageable as possible for us.
>
> A lot of this stuff really requires in-person inspection, and even
> then, we have to stick to our All Sales Final policy. Doing it online,
> and asking for the same no return deal, could get sticky in ways that
> we don't feel comfortable with.
>
> We do post "Web Specials." We have "Frame Specials."
>
> Thank you for understanding. Come on out sometime!
>
> All the best,
>
> John at RBW HQ
>
> On Sep 27, 6:27 pm, cm  wrote:
>
> > Maybe once, just once, one time for all of us who arent in the WC RBW
> > WHQ vicinity, they could do a virtual garage sale. Too much of a
> > pain?  Maybe, but come onjust one time. Riv is an internet/mail
> > order business, right? We are its internet/ mail order customers,
> > right? (said in the nicest, most pleading way possible-- basically
> > begging).
>
> > There just looks to be so much good mysterious stuff in all those
> > piles.
>
> > Cheers!
> > cm

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[RBW] Re: Vaporizing Nitto Jaguar Bolt

2010-09-28 Thread Peter Pesce
I've heard a theory that the socks that disappear from your laundry
are magically transformed into the wire hangars that continually
appear in your closet.

Maybe a similar thing is happening to all this hardware?

For me, every time a piece of hardware disappears, it seems a new
cardboard box (stamped Riv, VO, etc) magically appears a few days
later...

On Sep 28, 8:02 am, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> On Tue, 2010-09-28 at 06:52 -0500, Jon Grant wrote:
> > Rob in Seattle wrote:
>
> > > > > Changing out the saddle on my Saluki yesterday I dropped one of the  
> > > > > bolts from its Nitto Jaguar seatpost, and it vaporized. Absolutely  
> > > > > nowhere to be found. Tore apart the garage looking for it. Found the  
> > > > > proprietary washer, but the bolt itself vanished. Isn't it amazing 
> > > > > how  
> > > > > that can happen?
>
> > --
>
> > I read this thread with some amusement. Then yesterday, I fumbled a gray
> > plastic washer from my Silver shifter onto the gray garage floor and it
> > disappeared. I heard it bounce off the spoke of the wheel as it fell, and
> > that was the last evidence I had that it ever existed. It went to live with
> > Jesus.
>
> where it has a lot of company, including about half a ton of washers,
> nuts and screws that were originally mine...

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[RBW] Re: I want to try the Silver shifters

2010-09-29 Thread Peter Pesce
VO sells them too.

On Sep 29, 12:54 am, ciaj  wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> Rivendell is out of the Silver bar end shifters, so if you tried them
> and you didn't like them, and you want to get rid of them, I would
> like to buy them, so I can try them.
>
> Send me an email if you are interested.  Thank you.

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[RBW] Re: free: Riv Wool Stubby hats

2010-10-15 Thread Peter Pesce
I'll take one if still available. And I'll chip in for shipping!
Pete

On Oct 14, 6:57 pm, Eric  wrote:
> I have (2) two, new Riv Wool Stubby hats. Free to a "good" home. I'd
> appreciate some change me change for postage. Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: Tire wear/wars (50% OT)

2010-10-15 Thread Peter Pesce
Tires just aren't all that expensive. If you shop around online, end
of season, etc you can get pretty decent deals on "mass market" tires
like Schwalbe and Panaracer. Hetres and Riv tires maybe not so much.

I guess there are some people here who do serious annual mileage, so
cost might be an issue if you are truly wearing out 2 or 3 sets a
year.

In that case, I bet you could even get your LBS to cut you a deal if
you bought 10 or 12 tires at a time if you would actually go through
them since, as Doug P said, rubber doesn't get better with age!

On Oct 14, 10:22 pm, Seth Vidal  wrote:
> On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 10:18 PM, Angus  wrote:
> > Just curious how the RBW bunch approaches tire wear.  I can only guess
> > that we cover all corners of the spectrum.
>
> > I view Rivendell's as long lasting, practical, bicycles that we don't
> > have to spend a ton of money to maintain...so why replace the tires as
> > the first sign of wear.
>
> > I have literally seen people buy a pair of $50 road tires immediately
> > prior to a club bike ride because they thought one tire was "bad" (it
> > seemed obvious to me that the tube was twisted leading to the "bump"
> > in the tire).
>
> Maybe another interesting question:
>  How many people buying a particular type of tire does it take before
> you hit the bulk-discount price?
>
> For example - if I love the pasela panaracers and maybe the jack brown
> greens- how many do I need to buy before I see a discount on them.
>
> if I know I'm going to go through N of them in the next few years -
> how many other people do I need to go in on the purchase of them to
> see a price difference.
>
> inquiring minds want to know.
>
> -sv

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[RBW] Re: Sackvilled Sam Hillborne for Commuting and Touring

2010-10-15 Thread Peter Pesce
Beautiful bike. It's not often you see a Riv where the frame is the
cheapest thing on the bike.
OK, only half kidding! But the better part of a grand in racks and
bags is something  a lot of us can only dream about!
Thanks for posting a real dream bike.

On Oct 15, 6:31 pm, "Bryan @ Renaissance Bicycles"
 wrote:
> As per usual, we like to share our Rivendell builds.  This particular
> one will serve double-duty as a daily commuter and weekend tourer:
>
> http://www.renaissancebicycles.com/gallery/rb-gallery-1/
>
> The owner doesn't plan on riding it in "full-on" touring mode daily;
> the racks and panniers will be remounted for touring.  Better yet,
> this bike will give a little more international flavor to the
> Rivendell Owners Worldwide Map (http://www.renaissancebicycles.com/
> interactive-google-maps/rivendell-owners-map/) as it will reside in
> Switzerland.
>
> As always, feel free to ask any questions about the bike.
>
> Bryan

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[RBW] Re: bag for mustache bars?

2010-10-17 Thread Peter Pesce
I bought a "rackaleur" from VO to allow me to use bar bags with my
cross levers on a drop bar.
It works well. If your M bars are on a flat/horizontal stem then
something like that might allow you to get the bag out in front of the
foreward bends that I assume are causing you the trouble.
The rackaleur is on sale at the moment, too.

On Oct 17, 7:04 pm, andrew hill  wrote:
> I'm looking for a front-bag to hang beneath m-bars on a Romulus.  M-bars and 
> bags don't seem to go together at all well.  That being said, I'd like to try 
> a bar-bag instead of a front rack on this bike but I've got a 12-cm stem on, 
> so it's a hair more room than usual.
>
> Any suggestions??  
>
> Thanks,
> Andrew

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[RBW] Re: worlds collide

2010-10-19 Thread Peter Pesce
I can't say I understand the need for this either?
I must be missing something - what does this stuff do that low end
Shimano wouldn't do?

I can understand Riv selling low-end thumb shifters, because there's a
big leap from $16 to $150+ for DuraAce/Thumbies.
But a low end Alivio or something rear derailer can be had for under
30 bucks.


On Oct 18, 11:54 pm, Seth Vidal  wrote:
> Just read grant's new post about 
> deraillers:http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/knothole_post/297
>
> And I did a little looking into the microshift deraillers.
>
> And I found 
> this:http://www.microshift.biz/pviewitem1.asp?sn=791&area=51&cat=184#
>
> Now it's only funny to me or to others who might work in my field -
> but I used to help build the centos OS and the idea of having a centos
> derailler by microshift amuses me to no end.
>
> other than that it's pretty good looking.
>
> anyone actually used any of these yet?
> -sv

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[RBW] Re: worlds collide

2010-10-19 Thread Peter Pesce
I agree, and I can can't see how it helps Riv's brand perception to be
selling the cheapest and/or highest margin stuff out there.
I actually don't see why they have to sell derailers at all.
Also, If their philosophy is to provide things that otherwise wouldn't
be available if they didn't make them, which I think is an awesome
mission statement, I don't see where cheap derailers fit in. The work
will always be full of them. Now, maybe if they specially commissioned
a totally bomb-proof, friction-only only rear derailer with a classic
Campy or Simplex look, THAT might qualify.
I guess it doesn't matter, really, and the sooner I stop trying to
figure out why Grant does certain things the happier I'll be! :)

On Oct 19, 1:03 pm, Johnny Alien  wrote:
> I'm sure it's fine but I personally don't see the need to go super
> cheap on a component that I am buying for a $1500 + frame.  Seems a
> little backwards.

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[RBW] Re: Looking for Small Part for Non-Aero Brake Levers

2010-10-19 Thread Peter Pesce

Don't know of a hack, but I just bought a few of these from
loosescrews.com.
I think they were listed as Dia Comp but might fit Shimano too.

On Oct 19, 6:44 pm, Greg  wrote:
> This probably won't make sense to anyone except those who are familiar
> with older non-aero levers.
>
> I have a set of the older Shimano 600 non-aero brake levers (the ones
> with the holes in the levers).  But it seems I have lost the little
> piece of metal stop that fits under the hood, where the non-aero cable
> would sit on.  This is a vaguely cone-shaped small ferrule (for lack
> of a better word) that sits on the tip of the brake lever body, which
> is then covered by the hood.  Without this piece, the cable just falls
> into empty space.
>
> Anyhow, if anyone knows what I'm talking about, and has a suggestion
> on a hack that would do the job (keep the housing in place), pls let
> me know.
>
> Greg

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[RBW] Re: Bar-end Cable Routing?

2010-10-25 Thread Peter Pesce
I did this on my Sam, as I don't care for the "flying whiskers" look
of the cables that come off the drops.

One thing to keep in mind, depending on your circumstances, is how
they route to the down tube stops. Sometimes the transition directly
to the stop can be tight.

On Oct 25, 1:40 am, Kevin Turinsky  wrote:
> I'm considering rerouting my derailleur cables from my bar-end
> shifters, under the tape, all the way up the bars, just like my brake
> cables. The reason I'm thinking of doing this is because then the
> cables and my Berthoud bag will no longer have to quarrel.
>
> Anyone already done this? Any tips? Any hobgoblins to look out for?
> Photos?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Kevin Turinsky
> RUSA RBA - Alaska
> alaskarandonneurs.org
> The Big Wild Ride - Alaska's 1200K

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