[RBW] Re: More Winter Project updates

[Bill M.]

My big winter project was converting my '95 Riv Road from fixed gear
duty back to derailleur gearing, and swapping the fixed gear kit onto
a Steve Rex road frame that's been sitting around unridden since I
bought the Riv.

The Riv got a SRAM Apex group, minus the cranks.  That's right, 10
speed brifters on an old Riv.  Kind of the opposite of what the OP
did!  I'm not that fond of the black components, but they tend to
disappear to some extent so I can live with them.  The brakes are
excellent, and the shifting is also very, very good.  At least as good
as the Ergo on my go-fast, and I'm sure many would prefer it.

The cranks are a bit unusual.  I found a Campy Record Triple on a
closeout table at Performance for $50 and had to bring them home.  I
stripped off the 42 and 52, kept the 30 t granny, and installed a
Stronglight 46 tooth ring in the middle position.  No outer ring, so
short chainring bolts were needed.  That gives me an ultra-compact
46-30 crank with beautifully finished, cold-forged arms.  Q-factor
fetishists will think it too wide, but that works fine with my splayed-
out feet.  The Campy BB was expensive, but the total investment wasn't
bad.

Combine the 46-30 crank with the SRAM 11-32 cassette and I've got a
huge gear range (25 - 113 gear inches), and an easy shift pattern.
The 46 handles everything but a significant hill, then I drop to the
30.  It'll run cross-chained in pretty much every gear.  I tried to
avoid running too long in either extreme combination, but other than
that they're all good.

The wheels are the 32 spoke Velocity Aeroheads I rode on the Riv for
years, with 32 mm Pasela Tour Guards that I had in the shed.  The
Paselas measure just over 30 mm, which is comfortable on the bike.
Actual 32's might be a bit too tight.  The TG's always feel a bit dead
to me, so I may may swap in something sprightlier in a similar width
some day if I can figure out what that might be (30 mm Marathon
Racers? Grand Bois 29's?).  It was designed for 28's and fenders,
which is also an option.  For the rest, there's B17 on a Campy post, a
Nitto Technomic Deluxe and Noodle, an original Riv/Duluth Pack Banana
bag, and (for now) VO touring pedals with plastic clips and leather
straps.

The maiden voyage in this configuration was this Saturday, an out-and-
back from Ione to Volcano, CA.  21 miles and 2700 ft of gain outbound,
plus some climbing on the return so something over 3000' over the 42
miles.  There was snow on the ground in Volcano but the road wasn't
icy and I only had one light sprinkle of rain on the way back.  Too
bad I was the only cyclist on the road that day, it was a really
pretty ride.  The bike felt good going up hill or down, as it always
has.

Photos here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/15750548@N04/5470013328/in/set-72157626114728148/

Bill

On Feb 21, 12:16 pm, William  wrote:
> A big part of my winter projects involved liquidating a bunch of my
> high-value and comparatively low utility bike parts.  Highlights
> included selling some Ultegra Brifters and Flight deck computer form
> my tandem, which allowed me to convert it to indexed barcons and
> proper V-Brake levers.
>
> Another big conversion was converting my go-fast Davidson Signature to
> more of a rando bike.  I used my rebate to get a Mark's Rack, and
> parted out a full Chorus 10 speed kit.  Now the Davidson has friction
> barcons, a compact double, and a handlebar bag with decaleur.  A
> failed part of this conversion was I tried to get a 46-29 compact
> double on there, but couldn't manage to work around the braze on ft
> derailleur tab.  I tried modifying a clamp type braze on, but it
> didn't work out.  I might revisit that, but if I ever get a repaint
> that braze on is history.  As it sits, it's a 50/34 in front with a
> 12-26 9 speed in back.  That's good for a lot of things for a go-
> fast.
>
> FWIW, all-metal Campy seems to be doing REALLY well on the second-hand
> market.  I parlayed about $1500 in ebay sales, and if anything made my
> bike more functional.
>
> The bike also exhibits another hideous color-combination, for which I
> might be developing a reputation.  I have a close relative fighting
> breast cancer, so I wanted to get the pink out one way or another.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/5466031572/in/set-721576259...

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[RBW] Re: Warning: non-scientific experiment under construction (650B vs 700C)

[Bill M.]

I think Patrick's comments are right on.  I rode a metric century
today on Paris-Motos (mounted on 32 spoke Dyads laced to Phil cassette
hubs).  They felt fine cruising along solo, but I sure didn't feel
like trying to wind them up to jump on one of the pacelines that
passed me.  Had I been on my crabon go-fast running on 24/27 spoke
Campy wheels and 25 mm (measured 26 mm) Vittoria Open CX's I would
have been more able to make the jump.  What wears you out in a fast
group isn't so much rolling resistance as the constant accelerations
and decelerations, and light, skinny wheels and tires seem to spin up
faster.

That said, I was very comfortable today with 65 PSI in the tires and a
sprung Brooks Champion Flyer under my butt and that was what I wanted
for today's ride.  65 miles and 1655 feet of climbing in 4:32 won't
get me a pro team contract but it felt fine for this overweight 52
year old.

Bill

On Feb 26, 7:54 am, Patrick in VT  wrote:
> On Feb 25, 2:56 pm, William  wrote:
>   
>
> > A lot of comfort is bike fit, though, and the 700x28 wheels won't change
> > any of my fit points on the bike, so maybe I'll feel just as good.
> > Who knows?  
>
> Depends on the roads, no?  most of the long rides I do happen to
> include a lot of dirt - I really like 650b for these rides because it
> is definitely more comfortable when the pavement ends.
>
> for road rides, my 700c bike with 25s is just plain faster.  every now
> and then, i'll take my 650b rig (which is actually a sporty bike -
> columbus spirit-for-lugs tubes/pari-motos/white industries H2s laced
> to aerohead rims) out with some fast friends (who i can normally put
> the hurt on) and it's a struggle just to keep up.  the pari-motos at
> 50psi just don't accelerate like a narrower tire at higher pressure -
> and it's very noticeable when you need to get back up to 25mph in a
> hurry.  this is what "fast" means to me.
>
> just cruising along, I don't really notice a difference - i'm as fast
> as my legs and lungs are strong on any given day.  but the bike/wheel
> choice becomes pretty clear given the type of ride i'm about to do:
> rough-stuff mixed terrain or long brevet - 650b!!  spirited road ride
> - 700c!!

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[RBW] Re: Dumb Tire Mounting Question

[Bill M.]

I use a slightly different method than my namesake that I believe
gives a little more forgiveness with a very tight tire.

Start with one bead on and enough air in the tube to give it some
shape.  I (being right handed) start mounting the second bead just to
the left of the valve, and go around the wheel to the left.  The very
*last* section to snap over will be right at the valve.  Release a
little air from the tube as you go if it gets too hard to push the
bead over the rim.  It you get stuck at the last few inches, release
*all* of the air from the tube.  Now, starting opposite the valve,
push the second bead of the tire away from the rim flange so it can
drop into the middle of the rim where the diameter is the smallest.
Work as much slack as possible towards the stem on both sides.  Then,
as you push the last bit of the bead over the rim and just before it
snaps down, push the valve stem up into the tire so that it lifts the
tube and the tire can slip down beneath the valve without pinching the
tube.

That sounds a little complicated, but it gives you the absolute most
slack you can get in the tire.  This method lets me mount pretty much
any tire without using a lever, and without pinch flats.

This technique did not originate with me, I got it from a pictogram on
the box of a stupidly skinny and tight Michelin tire back in the
80's.  Years ago I described it in a letter that was published in a
Riv Reader.  It still works.

Bill

On Feb 28, 12:13 pm, William  wrote:
> There are some rim/tire combinations that are tighter than others.  In
> my experience, folding tires have a little more give than metal bead
> tires, so even if the tire is a touch undersized and/or the rim is a
> touch oversized, you can still make it work.  Snakebite in the
> situation you describe is absolutely you catching a fold of tube
> between the tire lever and the rim.  The number 1 best way to avoid
> that is to never use a tire lever.  Fortunately for me, with my
> current set of bikes, I can put on and take off all my various tires
> using only my hands.  When I worked at the bike shop it was probably
> about 2% of tire/rim combos that I needed to use a tire lever.  Here's
> the way I do tight tires (this warrants a youtube):
>
> 1.  Put one bead of the tire on the rim using only your hands.  No
> tube.  Can you do this?  If so, then there's no reason you can't get
> the other bead on without a tire lever, but we'll get to that.
> 2.  Put enough air in the tire that it is tube shaped.  Start at the
> valve stem and nudge it in over the rim without even starting to get
> the second tire bead on.  The more air you have in the tube the bigger
> diameter the tube will be.  If you have too much, you'll end up
> scrunching tube inside the tire, and that's really bad.  If you have
> too little, the tube will be closer to the diameter of the rim and
> will be down there in the neighborhood of where it's going to get
> nipped by your tire lever, and that's also bad.  In other words, put
> as much air in the tube as you can without getting it to scrunch on
> itself when you are stuffing it inside the tire.
> 3.  Start at the valve stem and get the bead onto the rim and UNDER
> the thicker disk of rubber around the valve stem.  Work around the
> rim, both ways if you can, one hand in one direction, one hand in the
> other.  If you can't do that, then go two-handed in one direction.
> Make a point of getting that bead into the center of the rim as best
> as you can.
> 4.  When it starts to get tight, and you can go no further with your
> hands, DO NOT start with a tire lever yet.  Instead, take the bead
> back out, about a 12" section.  Like when you are facing it, remove a
> 12" section of bead on the left.  Then, from the RIGHT, you should be
> able to push on a similar 12" section before it gets tight.  This gets
> you an unseated tire section with the tube shoved as far over the rim
> as possible.
> 5.  Now, this last section that you can't do with your hands you have
> to do with the lever.  As you shove the lever up between the rim and
> the tire, make a conscious effort to scrape the lever against the
> sidewall of the rim, so the tube cannot possibly get nipped between
> lever and rim.  Try to walk it over a few mm at a time with a single
> lever.  Try to hold the other end of the gap in place with your other
> hand.  Only if you can't hold it in with your other hand should you
> use a second tire lever to keep that end of the bead from walking
> out.
> 6.  Eventually you'll feel that you are at the last bit and you should
> be able to pop that last section in with your thumbs.  You should be
> able to peek into the rim and confirm there are no folds of tube under
> the tire bead.
>
> On Feb 28, 11:02 am, Minh  wrote:
>
>
>
> > I have a really dumb tire question for the collective, i'm asking
> > because i'm dumb-founded and need help.
>
> > I spent my saturday waiting for the plumber swapping tires around on
> > my bikes.  Sch

[RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

[Bill M.]

My vote for a classic lugged frame would be an all-silver group:

http://ruedatropical.com/2010/07/2011-all-silver-campagnolo-athena/

Yes it's 11 speed.  Get over it.  Gear it as you like, I'd use 50-34
and 12-29 because our local hills can get really steep.

Silver White Industries hubs, Velocity A23 rims (silver if available),
spokes to your liking.  Sapim CX-Rays are supposed to be great, but
they don't come cheap.  Challenge Paris-Roubaix or Grand Bois tires
(or Jack Browns, or Vittoria Randonneur Hypers if you need more flat
resistance).

Whatever handlebar fits you.  I really like the new generation compact
bar shapes, but they all come in 31.8 and black.   A Soba or one of
the Grand Bois bars would be classic and classy.  Nitto threadless
stem.  Handlebra tape to match your saddle of choice.  Ti B17, anyone?

Seatposts are problematic.  I would want micro-adjusting and silver
which is a rare combo any more. The Nitto Jaguar would be nice, but
not especially light.  The VO is OK, but I can't get the nose low
enough with some frame/saddle combinations.  It also depends on your
saddle and the setback you need.

Banana bag or some variant on that shape.

Gee, its fun spending other people's money!

Bill

On Mar 28, 11:20 am, Bike Hermit 
wrote:
> 
>
> 
> How would you build it?

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[RBW] Re: Berthoud saddle twising on seat post... what is going on?

[Bill M.]

Rene,

It may or may not be relevant to the twist in your Berthoud saddle,
but I also found that my old B17 had broken in asymmetrically, and I
tended to have much more pressure and discomfort on one side.  Part of
that may come from my having broken my right ischial tuberosity (sit
bone) back in 1992.  The solution came from the setup instructions for
the Selle An-Atomica saddle - for those of us with slightly
asymmetrical hips, the nose of the saddle may have to be pointed a bit
to one side instead of straight ahead.  You need to rotate the nose of
the saddle towards whichever cheek is under too much pressure.  The
magic point is when each sit bone bears equally against the saddle.
Too much rotation may cause your leg to rub against the nose, so
there's a limit to how far you can go.  It doesn't take much to make a
noticeable difference.  I now find that rotation is a basic part of
saddle fitting for all of my saddles.  Just lining it up by eye
doesn't get it into the right position.

It's disturbing that you actually seem able to twist the frame of that
saddle.  I would consider that a defect, at least worthy of a call to
the retailer to see if there is a known issue or a possible fix (or a
warranty replacement).

Bill Mennuti

On Mar 27, 7:39 pm, Rene Sterental  wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> To my utmost dismay, today I realized that my 3 month old Berthoud Touring
> saddle is all twisted on the seat post on my Atlantis. Please check how it
> looked in January when I installed it: *http://tinyurl.com/4mw79ms*and how
> it looked yesterday: *http://tinyurl.com/4ea9qfe*.
>
> I have posted some additional photos as well where you can check it from
> behind referencing the handlebar: *http://tinyurl.com/4vbsdmf*.
>
> It all happened because I got a second Berthoud saddle for my Homer and
> installed it yesterday. As I was checking to make sure that saddle position
> and height on the Homer was identical to the Atlantis, I noticed that the
> screwed rivet on the nose seemed to be pointing towards one side instead of
> pointing upwards. Further inspection from behind showed the left side
> significantly lower than the right side, and what appeared to be a twisted
> frame. When installing the Berthoud on the Homer, the distance between the
> rails is quite shorter than than the width of the rail "tracks" on the head
> of the Nitto S-83 seat post. The same was true on the Atlantis, but it
> wasn't quite so significant and this time I had to spend a significant
> amount of time slowly tightening the screws on the Nitto's head so the
> saddle rails would slide and get expanded to fit properly. The saddle on the
> Homer is very straight, just like the saddle on the Atlantis was at first.
>
> I don't know if my hips are twisted and/or one of my legs is shorter than
> the other one; I'm having problems on my right hip that coincidentally or
> not, started when I started riding the Brooks saddles on my Riv bikes. As I
> removed the Brooks saddle from the Atlantis to replace it with the Berthoud
> - the Atlantis is the bike I ride the most - I did notice that it seemed as
> if that saddle was starting to break in and the left side had a larger
> indentation making it a bit lower than the right side. At the time I
> dismissed it having read that it appeared that the newer Brooks saddles were
> not holding their shape very well and since I was swapping it for the
> Berthoud didn't pay any further attention to it.
>
> I then proceeded to remove the saddle from the seat post on the Atlantis to
> examine it (after taking the photos) and found the following:
> - The saddle seemed to straighten itself but I could twist it by hand quite
> easily and replicate the twist it had when mounted.
> - The screws on the rivets were a bit loose and I tightened them all - the
> saddle seemed to get a bit firmer and less twist prone but I could still
> twist it by hand.
>
> I then mounted the saddle on a Thomson Elite seat post and carefully
> adjusted its position and tightened slowly ensuring it was straight. After
> being tightened on the Thomson, I could no longer twist it by hand.
>
> I'm quite puzzled by all of this but am wondering if any of the following
> may be true:
> - My body is slowly twisting the saddle as I ride and my left seat bone is
> actually lower than the right one. On the Brooks saddle it seemed to start
> causing the leather to adapt to my derriere but on the Berthoud, the metal
> rails can twist on their plastic ends and therefore rather than the thicker
> leather adapting to my seat bones, the whole saddle has slowly twisted as
> the rails have slid even though the saddle was quite tight.
> - My right hip problem are the result of this twist that is probably in my
> body. I never had this problem when riding regular modern saddles, but for
> the past year+ all my rides were on leather saddles. I've gone back to
> riding clipped in instead of flats as that was another variable that changed
> at the same time. My right hi

[RBW] Re: Getting Ready for Spring/summer

[Bill M.]

I don't think it has to be either/or.  I enjoy all sorts of riding.
Fast pacelines are fun, but they are a lot less fun on the wrong
bike.  So, I have a Calfee with lightweight wheels, 25 mm tires,
Speedplay pedals and a minimal seat bag for riding with the local
club.  It's a nice bike and doesn't beat me up unduly over our usual
40 - 60 mile weekend rides.  Coffee?  We always stop mid-ride for
that, no need for a Thermos.  I don't need wider tires or bigger
luggage for those rides.  The Calfee is just enough bike for its
purpose, which makes it just right.

That doesn't mean I can't throttle back and enjoy riding my old Riv
Road with 32 mm tires, or my Kogswell P/R with 38's or 42's.  I rode
the Kog on a chilly 100k charity ride in February, when it was nice to
have a big rando bag for extra clothes.  Later this summer I want to
take it up to the Sierras to ride some unpaved back roads, and maybe
over to Mt. Tam or Diablo for more of the same.  The Riv will be my
ride for my next couple of 'organized' rides where a meduim sized
saddle bag will be perfect.  In between, I'll commute on my my
racked'n'fendered Miyata 1000, and take a few spins around the
neighborhood on my old fixed gear.  Each of those bikes has its own
purpose, and I appreciate each one for what it does well.

Yeah, I'm lucky to be able to afford multiple bikes, but together they
cost less up front than a boat, a Harley or a mistress, and the
ongoing maintenance is less than any of the above so I'm fine with
that investment (and fortunately so is my wife).

Bill
A bicyclist for over 30 years and counting!

On Mar 29, 10:03 pm, Kelly Sleeper  wrote:
> Well the winter testing and riding has been spectacular for me.  The change
> from challenge/workout/fast/race type of riding to just riding has been
> great.  Now for some more surprises...
>
> Columbia makes great shirts that button up, wick mositure, and don't smell.  
> Much as Grant describes the cowboy shirt I am finding the short sleeve large
> shirts to dry as quickly, more comfortable and cooler in 85 degree
> weather...  tight riding jerseys (yes sunburn on the forarms is still
> there)  
>
> Found some North Face shorts that felt like the same material as the MUSA's
> with a better fit in shorts for me.  But still quick drying and reasonably
> priced.   Also picked up some pants with the legs that zip off.  Great but a
> pain in that I had to use velcro straps for my pants leg.. forget to take
> the straps off.. forget to put them on.. blah blah .. but great as temps
> went up and I wanted to be in shorts.. give and take.  Loving my MUSA pants
> and will be ording more.
>
> Ordering more wool undies from Riv.. the 3 pair I have are spectacular and
> I'm looking forward to them this summer.
>
> My mental transformation is almost complete as well.  I am a strong rider so
> it's not like I'm out to crawl.  But I'm out for a decent pace while not
> making it a work out.  To have a thermos of coffee with me. To enjoy lower
> gears where no hill really hurts unless I want it to.  The little bit here
> (dyno hub) little bit there (lbs of steel frame and bags and a little bit up
> there (higher riding position) and of course the looser clothes.   I can't
> feel any one thing... however as an overall accumulation I am slower on full
> out efforts.. (oh my)  I miss my clipless pedals on occasion.. overall the
> tradeoffs have made riding more fun.  Yes they are trade offs.  If I was
> interested in going my fastest Rivendell and the other things would not be
> on my list of wants.  But that 30 minutes over a 60ish mile day of fun
> riding.. it"s 30 minutes more of nirvana.   More stops.. more looking
> around..
>
> But the weight thing.. sorry I add my Stanley thermos of coffee in the
> saddle bag and don't notice it.  The bike handles and does everything as it
> did before.  
>
> My Bombadil tour bike rides as smooth with 75lbs on it as it does with 30
> lbs on it.. and for you saying 75 lbs is to much.. hey.. I like having my
> stuff... the gearing and the bike get me there.. not wasted weight either.  
> It all gets used.  
>
>    Take something to extreme and there are trade offs.  Take every thing
> away from me.. put me back in spandex and a carbon framed bike.. only one
> thing I will never ride again.. 700x23's..
>
> For me if it's a work out, and extreme climb, and three this or that
> challenge, blah blah.. been there done that.. have a closet full of jerseys
> and t shirts.. no thanks.. I'm enjoying my AHH and Bomba..  laughing at
> those worried about weight .. only now it's those who shun it .. :)  
>
> So I started here ...  
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/tksleeper/5155759637/in/set-721576252104...
>
> She was sweet .. but I'm happier now and just as challenged choosing gear
> based on different criteria..
> I've ended here.. or have begun 
> again..http://www.flickr.com/photos/tksleeper/5535822293/ (note that bag is
> smallish at times)
>
> For the riding the Rivendells are s

[RBW] Re: Campy Only!: New Time Trial Gruppos Coming

[Bill M.]

The centerpulls are for improved aerodynamics on time trial bikes.
The fronts are meant to sit behind the fork where they can hide from
the wind.  They use a noodle for cable routing, kind of like a
modified V-brake.  The true centerpull rear can be mounted under the
chainstays without the arms sticking out to interfere with the crank,
and allow for clean cable routing (presumably internal to the
downtube).  Tri/time trial bikes don't necessarily need great braking,
I wouldn't expect these to match up to Campy's current road brakes
(which are excellent).

Their new cyclocross cantilevers might be of more interest around
here:
http://ruedatropical.com/2011/03/campagnolo-cantilever-brakes/

Don't hold your breath for long reach brakes, Campy is completely
focused on the performance/racing market these days.

Bill


On Apr 1, 8:09 pm, Michael_S  wrote:
> That's quite a retro move. Campy Center pull brakes!  Look like short
> reach too, Is this just for better braking?  I know on my Paul Racers
> the stopping power is certainly an order of magnitude better than
> sidepulls, it just seems to buck the long established trend of
> sidepulls.
>
> ~Mike
>
> On Apr 1, 5:20 pm, William  wrote:
>
>
>
> > The center pull brakes are pretty swank, too.
>
> > On Mar 31, 5:30 pm, Eric Norris  wrote:
>
> > > Campagnolo is coming out with bar-end shifters for 2012 that are designed 
> > > for time trialing but which could easily be used on standard bars:
>
> > >http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com/2011/03/new-time-trial-gruppos-comin...
>
> > > This opens up Campagnolo to Riv-minded riders who don't want to use 
> > > brifters.
>
> > > --Eric N
> > > Sent from the iPad 2- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

[Bill M.]

Vittoria, Dugast and FMB all make 27 mm road tubulars if that's close
enough for you.  Expect to pay $100 or more per tire.  I think I'll
pass.

Bill

On Apr 2, 11:31 am, Bike Hermit 
wrote:
> Charlie, I actually have a set of Mavic Reflex tubular rims I have
> thought about building for this bike. I'd like to find some smooth
> tread 700 x 28 tubular tires though.

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[RBW] Re: How's the wind in your region?

[Bill M.]

Todays ride was out-and-back with a steady 15 MPH wind, downwind going
out, upwind coming back, 42 miles total with constant rolling hills. I
rode my Road Std with 46/30 x 11-32 gearing.  I never needed bottom
gear, but had to hit the 30 a number of times grinding uphill and into
the wind.  I wouldn't have wanted to try it on a fixed gear!

Bill

On Apr 3, 12:27 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> Riding almost exclusively fixed is interesting at this time of year: rode
> home from church mostly s partly w, against westerly 30 gusts to 48 and
> forecast to hit 55. When you have to stand on level ground as you slow down
> to 11-12 mph, you know the wind is strong.
>
> Headwind gear: low in the hooks, elbows bent.
>
> A good cycling cap helps keep the dust out of your eyes, too.
>
> --
> Patrick Moore
> Albuquerque, NM
> For professional resumes, contact
> Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

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[RBW] Re: Beausage and Beaunction

[Bill M.]

Five pictures of the Legolas, five different saddle bags! Forget about
cleaning, when do you find time to organize your bag collection?  :)

On Apr 7, 2:13 pm, Mojo  wrote:
> > I am surprised by the many photos I see of bikes that are showroom
> > floor clean. Either they are not ridden, or, more likely, the owners
> > spend as much time cleaning them as riding them. Now I do live in a
> > dry climate...
>
> Quite the assumption Patrick. Cleaning a bike takes about as much time
> as fixing a flat. After being caught in a heavy rainshower I will
> spend about 5 minutes wiping down a fendered bike, 15 minutes for the
> non-fendered. I too live in a dry climate and I rarely feel the need
> to clean my bikes. But they still look like 
> thishttp://www.flickr.com/photos/79695460@N00/5598979996/in/pool-legolas
> as on my ride today 7April.
>
> Now, when I ride offroad in La Tierra Encantada I prefer to spend my
> time riding instead of fixing flats, so I use both slime AND liners.
> But thats a different topic.

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[RBW] Re: New bicycling shoes from Timberland

[Bill M.]

On Apr 8, 8:44 am, Mike  wrote:
> On Apr 8, 8:37 am, cyclotourist  wrote:
>
> > Their shoes plane.
>
> Actually, we can't be so sure until BQ has done a test of the
> product.

I think the name is misprinted, it should be the Radler *Low Trail*
Leather and Fabric Hiker.

Bill

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[RBW] Re: New bicycling shoes from Timberland

[Bill M.]

On Apr 8, 8:44 am, Mike  wrote:
> On Apr 8, 8:37 am, cyclotourist  wrote:
>
> > Their shoes plane.
>
> Actually, we can't be so sure until BQ has done a test of the
> product.

Shouldn't that be the Radler "Low Trail" Leather and Fabric Hiker?

Bill

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[RBW] Re: Source for nice cycling posters (was: hiawatha posters)

[Bill M.]

Lots of nice cycling posters at:
http://www.art.com/gallery/id--b6410-c1837/bicycles-vintage-art-prints.htm
though perhaps not the particular photos you linked.

Bill

On Apr 9, 7:43 am, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> Pretty. I want to get a few nice cycling posters. I do have this one,
> found at my usual emporium. (I am sure no one will be offended. I am
> not at all trying to be "controversial;" I like this photo as a good
> example of late 19th century commercial poster art and one related to
> cycling.)
>
> On a similar note: where can I find posters of the famous photos like
> that of Bartali shifting his Parigi-Roubaix or Cambria Corsa on a
> climb, or of Coppi climbing, and so on? Coppi and Bartali in
> particular, tho' I wouldn't mind Anquetil or Kublet or others from the
> 30s to the 50s.
>
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, Apr 8, 2011 at 7:09 PM, Seth Vidal  wrote:
> > I just got the new one back from the framers.
>
> >http://www.flickr.com/photos/skvidal/5602012856/
>
> > I'll get them hung on that wall sometime soon, I swear. :)
>
> > thanks to Jim Thill at HC for the posters.
>
> > -sv
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
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>
> --
> Patrick Moore
> Albuquerque, NM
> For professional resumes, contact
> Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com
>
>  Cycles Gladiator.jpg
> 63KViewDownload

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[RBW] Re:

[Bill M.]

It's a second top tube, but mounted very low.  Grant didn't think of
that option for the 'pillar!

On Apr 11, 9:07 am, Mojo  wrote:
> If the 'handle' connects the seat and down tube (unlike the cool fold-
> down handle that Rob showed us), wouldn't this also diminish bottom
> bracket flex? Until a few years ago I would have thought that would be
> a good thing. Now with the whole planing concept, I am just confused.
> As I have found in my psuedo-science job as a weather forecaster,
> increased information most often leads to a more complex view and thus
> decreased forecast confidence.
>
> On Apr 11, 8:33 am, Seth Vidal  wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Mon, Apr 11, 2011 at 10:30 AM, Rene Sterental  
> > wrote:
> > > This would be of great utility when lifting my loaded Atlantis to get
> > > on the train. I just grab it with my right hand by the seat tube right
> > > above the bottle cage. Left hand on the handlebar.
>
> > > A handle would make it even easier. I'd never seen that concept before.
>
> > From beloved cycles:
>
> >http://belovedcycles.com/bikes/everyday/2/
>
> > That's the first place I'd seen one and it makes fair sense to me
>
> > -sv

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[RBW] Re: How are those winter projects coming?

[Bill M.]

My winter project was restoring my '95 Riv Road to derailleur gearing
from the fixed configuration it was in last year.  It got a SRAM Apex
group, with a Campy triple crank converted to 46/30 gearing.

I had a few nice rides on it, then the rear wheel packed it in.  It
had an American Classic hub that stopped engaging reliably after many
years of use.  I had planned on riding it tomorrow in the Cycle for
Sight in Napa, but that won't happen.  I'll have to ride my 650b
Kogswell instead.  So, I'm now waiting for the parts to build a new
wheelset for the Riv.  I guess that's my spring project.  The build
will be:

White Industries H2/H3 hubs, silver, 32 hole
Velocity A23 rims, silver
DT 14/15/14 spokes, brass nipples.  Silver, of course
Velocity Veloplugs in lieu of rim tape

And, if they fit the frame, 32 mm Vittoria Randonneur Hypers.  I
understand that they run a bit on the wide side, and the A23's will
probably let them get even wider.  The front will be fine, but I'm a
little concerned about the rear tire clearing the brake bridge.  I may
have to remove the dropout adjusting screws and pull the wheel all the
way back for that last mm of clearance.  If they don't fit I'll be
back to 32 mm Pasela TG's, which only measure a bit over 30 mm.

Here are some photos from the maiden ride on the Apex parts:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/15750548@N04/sets/72157626114728148/

Bill


On Apr 15, 10:46 am, William  wrote:
> Are you going to have all those winter projects done now that the
> riding weather is improving?  I had several and I've done pretty well
> to get most of them knocked out.  The most overarching one is that I
> liquidated a lot of my stuff, including four sets of brifters and all
> my Campy drivetrain bits.  That raised quite a bit of money and I
> think made two of my bikes a lot more useable.  They were:
>
> 1.  Ibis Tandem.  Goodbye to brifters, flight deck and 12-32
> cassette.  Hello to indexed barcons and 12-36 cassette (and $$)
> 2.  Davidson gofast.  Goodbye to campy brifters, derailers, rear hub,
> brakes, 22mm tires and cassette.  Hello to shimano low normal der,
> friction barcons, 12-32 cassette, shimano brakes, tektro levers, and
> 25mm tires (and $$)
> 3.  Bomba.  Hello drop bar cockpit
> 4.  Hillborne.  Hello trail riding configuration
> 5.  Wife's Yves Gomez.  Goodbye cheap thumbshifters, hello index
> barcons (in progress)
>
> I'm kicking another project off tonight.  I wanted a MUSA lugged steel
> road frame to set up as an all-road to live in Southern California,
> since we go down there several times a year.  I found a 1984 Trek 770,
> and I'm picking it up tonight.  The Campy Super Record bits will go
> out on the resale market, and I'll be setting it up more civilized
> over the next month or so.  I picked up a Sugino compact double from
> VO for $90.  I'm even considering keeping the tubulars for a while.
> Has anyone tried the Vittoria Pave 27mm tubulars?  Those look
> awesome.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Pashley Tube Rider double scoop complete bike

[Bill M.]

This bike really is too cute for words.  My wife is fairly short, I
faer the Pashley may be a little big for her. Can you give me an idea
of the sizing?  What's the standover, the effective top tube?  Or, how
tall a rider was it set up for in the pictures?

Thanks,

Bill Mennuti

On Apr 26, 4:01 pm, williwoods  wrote:
> Still for sale bump.
>
> and thank you!
>
> On Apr 25, 8:11 am, williwoods  wrote:
>
>
>
> > $500 shipped.
>
> > On Apr 23, 1:15 pm, williwoods  wrote:
>
> > >  I am lowering the price to $550 shipped.
>
> > > Dont think I can go much lower than that,
>
> > > On Apr 22, 6:27 pm, williwoods  wrote:
>
> > > > I have this gorgeousPashleyTube Rider Double Scoop in Pink/
> > > > Tourquoise
>
> > > > Upgrades include: Nitto Periscopa stem, Nitto bars, mks touring
> > > > pedals, shimano brake levers, cork grips, a suntour thumbshifter used
> > > > in friction mode, and basket.
>
> > > > I have the original twist shifter and grips as well as the original
> > > > beach cruiser style bars. All will be included.
>
> > > > This was the last one imported from the uk back in '10. I am not sure
> > > > if these are available anymore state-side from apashleydealer. I was
> > > > told last year that the us distributer wasn't importing them anymore.
>
> > > > perfect shape not a blemish to be found. no dents cracks etc.
> > > > there are scuff marks here and there on the pedals and crank arms,
> > > > just the normal wear. always stored indoors ridden about 1000 miles.
> > > > wheels are true, everything works perfect. My wife doesnt really ride
> > > > it much anymore, since she got a go-fast bike.
>
> > > > $625 shipped in the lower 48.
>
> > > > perfect town bike.
>
> > > >http://www.flickr.com/photos/willhrtn/sets/72157626556037328/

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[RBW] Re: Crappy Pasela Sidewalls

[Bill M.]

I'm moving to the 32 mm Vittoria Randonneur Hyper.  I have a pair in
and mounted on Velocity Aerohead rims, but have not been able to ride
them yet.  They weighed in at 364 gm, and measure around 32.5 mm wide
after a few days at pressure.  They *just* fit in my '95 Riv Road
Standard.  32 mm Pasela TG's measured 30.5 mm on the same rims.  The
rear wheel of that set is shot, so I'm waiting for the parts to build
up a new wheel set for that bike - Velocity A23 rims on White
Industries hubs.  They should be up and running this week, and I hope
to ride a century on them the following week.  They can be had for $40/
each on line.

I do have a fair number of miles on the beefier Randonneur Pro tires
in 35 mm width, and find that they roll OK for a 460 gm touring tire
that doesn't flat easily.  At least, I find they roll better than the
650b Marathons I commuted on for a part of last year, and to my legs
no worse than the Pasela TG's.  The lighter, less-armored Hypers
should perform even better.

The Vittoria Rando's are all blackwall tires so they shouldn't rot the
way Paselas do, and have reflective sidewall stripes which IMO is a
good thing for any tire with commuting or touring applications.  I'm
becoming a Vittoria fanboy, I also have 28 mm Rubino Pro's on my fixed
gear, and Open CX's on my go-fast.  Both have given good service and
ride very well.

Bill

On May 1, 2:34 pm, Mike S  wrote:
> I've had a set of the 32mm Panaracer Paselas that Riv used to sell on
> a bike of mine for about one year and less than 750 miles, and I
> noticed yesterday that there is a hole in the sidewall that apparently
> just opened up on it's own, as the tube was fine. It seems really
> ludicrous to me that seemingly good quality tires made in Japan could
> go bad so quickly, and I'm wondering if others have experiences with
> lousy Pasela sidewalls?
>
> I got them for a pretty good price ($30/ea on sale), but they seem to
> be no bargain at all given the inferior quality. I got them mostly
> because they were inexpensive and were exactly the max width I can run
> on an old Trek fork. Have others found a good quality, non-super-
> expensive tire at 32mm? Does Schwalbe make a good tire that is
> actually 32mm and is in the $35-40/ea. range?

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[RBW] Re: Lighter Wheel Set Question

[Bill M.]

I used a pair of 130 mm Shimano 105 hubs in a 135 spaced frame by
adding 2 mm of spacers to each side of the axle.  No re-dishing was
needed, it worked fine.  There's a bit less axle in the dropout but
that makes no difference, as Sheldon pointed out the wheel is held by
the locknut and skewer faces.  It's also easily reversible.

I wouldn't bother respacing the frame.  My Riv Road was spaced 128 (to
accept 126 or 130 hubs), and I think it's kind of a pain.

Bill

On May 3, 2:22 pm, Bruce Oppenheim  wrote:
> I would like to ride a lighter wheels/tires set on my A. Homer Hilsen
> at times when just riding paved roads.
>
> I have a pair of Mavic open pro wheels from another bike with road
> bike hub spacing (130). My A. Homer Hilsen is (135). Since the Mavic
> hub spacing is a bit narrower, my question is... will it hurt the
> frame to squeeze the rear dropout to fit the smaller hub? I don't want
> to stress the frame.
>
> Thanks,
> Bruce

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[RBW] Re: Stem Strength

[Bill M.]

Back in 1991 I bought a Cannondale (very stiff frame) that came with a
standard quill stem.  I swapped it out for a hollow, welded stem that
had a much larger diameter extension.  The first time I stood up and
cranked the bike up a short steep rise I was astonished at how much
stiffer the front end of the bike felt.  The quill stem was allowing
the bars to twist, the new one wasn't.

That may or may not be seen as a good thing, but I have no doubt that
typical threadless stems are stiffer in torsion than traditional quill
stems.

Bill

On May 6, 3:58 am, MichaelH  wrote:
> The new RR contains an article by GP outlining his believes about
> various aspects of  bike strength, comfort, weight, and comfort.
> There wasn't much new there for anyone who has followed him for a few
> years, including why he prefers threaded headsets and stems, but it
> did trigger this question from me.
>
> My son, who is 39 years old and a very muscular 170 lbs claims that
> he experiences stem flex while climbing with a traditional quill
> stem.  I am always disinclined to challenge people's subjective
> experience but I have never experienced this and suspect it is in his
> imagination.
>
> Has anyone here felt their stem flex and has anyone ever broken a
> stem?
>
> michael

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[RBW] Re: Stem Strength

[Bill M.]

I suspect that the introduction of carbon fiber bars had something to
do with the introduction of 31.8 mm bars as well.

Bill


On May 6, 10:15 pm, James Valiensi  wrote:
> Hey,
> My back of the envelope calc's indicate a standard aluminum quill stem will 
> deflect about ten times more than a steel stem. This is with equal extensions 
> lengths and loads, and the aluminum stem has a solid 22.2mm diameter 
> extension, and the steel stem is 31.8mm OD w/ 25.4mm ID extension. The 
> extension into the fork vs. clamping on the outside of the fork are not 
> significant here.
> By the way, neither stem deflects that much.
> If you really want a stiff stem, use a short extension, and big diameter. And 
> steel too.
> And you know why they went to 31.8mm diameter handle bars? Because of the 
> stinking cable grooves. The grooves make the bar section too flexible, the 
> bigger diameter overcame this.
> Cheers!
> James Valiensi, PE
> Northridge, CA
> H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796
>
> On May 6, 2011, at 6:44 PM, Philip Williamson wrote:
>
>
>
> > When I got my Quickbeam, I tried a couple of stems, including the
> > stock Technomic Deluxe and the Nitto Dirt Drop. Both flexed noticeably
> > more than the Salsa welded stem I ended up with. The Dirt Drop not as
> > much as the Technomic Deluxe, but the quill was bottomed out in the
> > steerer.
>
> > Philip
>
> > On May 6, 9:24 am, "Bill M."  wrote:
> >> Back in 1991 I bought a Cannondale (very stiff frame) that came with a
> >> standard quill stem.  I swapped it out for a hollow, welded stem that
> >> had a much larger diameter extension.  The first time I stood up and
> >> cranked the bike up a short steep rise I was astonished at how much
> >> stiffer the front end of the bike felt.  The quill stem was allowing
> >> the bars to twist, the new one wasn't.
>
> >> That may or may not be seen as a good thing, but I have no doubt that
> >> typical threadless stems are stiffer in torsion than traditional quill
> >> stems.
>
> >> Bill
>
> >> On May 6, 3:58 am, MichaelH  wrote:
>
> >>> The new RR contains an article by GP outlining his believes about
> >>> various aspects of  bike strength, comfort, weight, and comfort.
> >>> There wasn't much new there for anyone who has followed him for a few
> >>> years, including why he prefers threaded headsets and stems, but it
> >>> did trigger this question from me.
>
> >>> My son, who is 39 years old and a very muscular 170 lbs claims that
> >>> he experiences stem flex while climbing with a traditional quill
> >>> stem.  I am always disinclined to challenge people's subjective
> >>> experience but I have never experienced this and suspect it is in his
> >>> imagination.
>
> >>> Has anyone here felt their stem flex and has anyone ever broken a
> >>> stem?
>
> >>> michael
>
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[RBW] Re: Speaking of that new RR 43 ....

[Bill M.]

On May 9, 11:49 am, grant  wrote:
> It is unlikely that any carbon frame or fork bought in 2012 (I'm
> giving them time to improve it still) will be both on the road and
> safe on the road in 2020. Something will happen, or at least wise
> heads will quit riding them.

That seems to me to be an overly pessimistic assessment.  I still
occasionally see Trek 2300's (CF tubes glued to aluminum lugs) from
the early 90's (maybe late 80's?) on the road after some 20 years.

Craig Calfee warrantees his frames for 25 years.  I suspect quite a
few of them will still be on the road in eight years.

I wouldn't use a CF frame for touring, shopping, commuting, or back
road/off road exploring, steel still makes sense for those purposes.
It's no surprise that most of Rivendell's current bikes are suited to
just those sorts of rides.  When I ride solo, or with a load, or down
dirt roads or trails, or with a friend on a casual ride I ride steel.
Last Saturday I rode my 1995 Riv Road 62 solo miles with >4500 ft
vertical and lots of steep hills and had a lovely time.

But I also own a Calfee that I use for for fast, unloaded riding with
my bike club.  It doesn't need to be versatile, I have other bikes for
that.  Fenders, racks and baggage would only detract from its intended
function, so it doesn't need eyelets to mount any of those things.
Its 25 mm tires are wide enough to handle the many miles of decent
paved roads within reach of my home.  I'm not overly concerned about
its longevity, it only gets a couple of thousand miles a year so it
should last a long time.  All the same, I'm careful not to abuse it.
I don't abuse my steel bikes either.

I'm also not so worried about cost per ride, or all I'd ride would be
Miyata 1000 I bought in 1983 and still ride as a commuter.  The cost
per ride is low for that bike, but the fun per dollar isn't all that
high either.  Different tools, different materials  for different
purposes.

Now, can't we all just get along?

Bill

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[RBW] Re: Durability and function

[Bill M.]

That poster is somewhat misinformed.  Steel bikes are current and
viable in cycling for anything short of racing in the pro road
peloton.  This year's US Masters Cyclocross champion rode steel (no
surprise, as his name is Richard Sachs).  Salsa, Surly and Soma seem
to think steel is "commercially viable" and they sell a fair number of
bikes.  What about Waterford?  Indy Fab?  Seven?  Look at the number
of solo custom builders that build in steel by choice, and their
customers that can choose any material but buy steel.  I seem to be
forgetting another small but influential company that sells steel
bikes, but I can't remember their name at the moment...

Hay, I own a CF bike and like it a lot, but if it was stolen tomorrow
I'd probably replace it with lightweight steel.

I'm with you on the vinyl and tubes (and nice mandolins, for that
matter, but mine's a modern Weber), but I rarely wear a watch, and I
gave up on film years ago.

Bill
(currently listening to my hand-built stereo system, with high
efficiency horn-loaded speakers driven by a vacuum tube pre-amp and
amp that deliver something approaching five whole Watts, and both a
turntable and a digital music server.)

On May 14, 3:59 pm, scott  wrote:
> I don't care one way or another about the Carbon Fiber issue. But, in
> a recent thread I spotted this quote that I have been thinking about:
>
> .there is nothing wrong with
> steel bicycle frames or the people who ride them, like them, or make
> them. I
> just proposed to the frame builder list here that steel bikes must be
> considered as a fashion decision. This is not a put down at all. Lots
> to
> things from the past have value but are not very commercially viable.
> Vinyl
> records, film cameras, mechanical watches, steel bike frames all have
> their
> place with a small fanatic following."
>
> I don't know about "Fashion Decision," but I have vinyl records that
> are 50+ years old that still play great. I had an Ipod that sh@t out
> on me after being left in the cold and CD's that skip even though I
> try to take good care of them. My film camera has been repaired and
> should last another 20 years hopefully, yet my first digital camera
> didn't last two years. I have a tube guitar amp that sounds fantastic
> that is 40 years old and has been repaired. My pops recently left me
> his 1928 Gibson mandolin that was once run over by a car (the
> headstock needed repair) that sounds better than any mandolin I've
> ever heard. These things are metaphors for handmade steel bicycle
> frames I suppose. But I hope that in fifty years my Sam Hilborne (yet
> to be delivered) will be around with the mandolin and tube amp.
>
>    Scott

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

[Bill M.]

If you want wide, the Rando bars won't do it.  The 45's are only about
38 cm across at the hoods.  I use mine set high, and use the drops
when out of the saddle.

I really like the 'compact' shape of some modern bars, like this one
(the only one I know of that comes in silver):
http://www.ritcheylogic.com/dyn_prodfamily.php?k=394053

They are particularly well suited to brifters, which allow hand
position that's further forward than the brake levers that were in use
when bars like the Nitto were designed.  Problem is they only come in
31.8 mm clamp diameter.  That means using a threadless stem and a
quill adapter.  That's not tragic, I actually think it works well and
makes adjustments and stem swaps very easy.  I have a VO stem and a
Zoom quill adapter on my Riv and the combination is lighter than the
Technomic Deluxe that preceded them.

IMO, Albatross bars are fine and have their place, but they aren't
really a substitute for a drop bar.

Bill

On May 15, 4:36 pm, Zaelia  wrote:
> Discussing bicycles in particular; it has been my experience that
> there are a lot of strong opinions out there about what is right or
> optimum. Personally, I think that it is whatever works for the
> individual. There are so many styles and purposes of riding, it's not
> hard to see that a one-fits-all formula isn't possible, even though I
> sometimes wish someone could just give me a magic number and
> everything would click into place.
>
> Next, I guess I have to admit that a lot of this stuff is Greek to me.
> I'm learning, but it's slow going.
>
> So with that in mind...
>
> I've been to my LBS for a bike fitting (a multi-visit process) and we
> first took care of the basics, pedals and saddle. Things have
> improved. I have almost no hand or foot tingles any more, and knee
> pain is gone, for example, but I'm still experiencing shoulder and
> neck pain. I definitely feel as though I'm bunched up up top, like my
> shoulders are too close to my ears. In a recent visit, we determined
> that to start I should get a longer stem. Currently, my Hilsen has an
> 8 cm (80 mm) Nitto Technomic stem. It was suggested that, without
> changing my handlebars, I get a 10 cm (100 mm) stem.
>
> It was also suggested I get a handlebar that has a medium to shallow
> drop since I admitted to almost never riding in the drops because it
> feels too uncomfortable. I've got a 42 cm (420 mm) Nitto 115. The
> fitter, very keen for me to get an anatomic bar that he thought was
> perfect for me, pulled out a black aluminum bar and repeatedly told me
> that I would not find anything like this in the "retro style". I
> suppose he meant the angular or shaped-curve drops of the anatomic
> bars, but I also had the feeling he was saying I wouldn't find
> anything with a medium to shallow drop.
>
> At home on my computer, I looked at various Nitto handlebars on a
> couple of websites (Riv, Peter White, and Harris Cyclery) and I saw,
> for example, that the Nitto 135 Randonneur has a shallower drop at 120
> mm compared to my 115 at 140 mm. It has a slightly longer reach at 105
> mm compared to my 100 mm, but has basically a "similar construction
> and finish to model 115" (Harris Cyclery). I'm assuming this "similar
> construction" means it has a 25.4 mm center as well, though the
> website does not specify.
>
> So, I'm thinking about getting the Randonneur bars and trying them out
> with the new, longer stem. I'll get the improved reach with the longer
> stem and a shallower drop for better shifting and increased options
> for hand positions.
>
> The last thing is handlebar width. I've read quite a bit about going
> for a wider handlebar width. Again, the fitter had different ideas.
> Ironically, he could see how maybe my working at a computer for many
> hours a day could cause some back problems but did not see that having
> a narrow (shoulder width) bar could do the same. The Nitto 135
> Randonneur only comes in 2 sizes on the Harris Cyclery website (42 and
> 45 cm), so that helps a little. So maybe I'll just throw all my chips
> in and get the 45 cm... ?
>
> Well. I'm not sure why I wrote all this. I guess I'm hoping someone
> will read it and offer their thoughts and/or experiences. I'd be
> interested to read what others have to say.
>
> Thanks,
> Zaelia

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[RBW] Re: need ideas for versatile touring/commuting bars other than rando/drops

[Bill M.]

Salsa Woodchipper, maybe?  Very short extension and shallow drop,
which make the effective reach a few cm shorter than something like a
Noodle.  The drops are quite flared, but I find them comfortable.

I find Moustaches on a too-long bike to be insufferable.  I've mounted
and removed mine several times, and the most comfortable application I
found was on a bike that was actually a bit too small for me.

Bill

On May 17, 11:09 am, canali  wrote:
> just looking to experiement with a bar that will be good for both long
> distance touring as well as everyday commuting.
> ...the albatross seems a bit wide for me
>
> reason: my bike is a tad long (i should be on a 51 vs 53 atlantis) so
> drops are a bit of a reach with 80-90cm stem.

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[RBW] Re: Road Std up for sale on the bay

[Bill M.]

Doesn't know how to spell Ambrosio, or the difference between an
"extended top tube" and an extended head tube.  And I doubt that that
frame will take a 35 mm tire, mine is about maxed out with a 32.  I'd
be wary.

Bill

On May 19, 5:48 pm, Bruce  wrote:
> So, here's a Road Standard that looks like it has been repainted, maybe not, 
> and the seller says he was a framebuilder at Waterford and bought the bike 
> then, but he can't recall the date on this frame, somewhere 1995 - 1998. 
> Wouldn't a Waterford worker know to look at the date code on the BB shell?
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/Rivendell-61cm-Road-Bicycle-Handmade-Steel-Lugged...

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[RBW] Re: V.O City/Touring Pedal Vs. Gripking

[Bill M.]

I have a pair of the VO Touring pedals.  No issues so far, they spin
nice and smooth, though they haven't seen significant rain.  I wear a
size 9 and use toe clips, so while I find them comfortable and plenty
grippy, your feet may vary.

The City pedals would have more cornering clearance, but a smaller
platform for your feet.  The GK's get around that by being relatively
narrow much longer than traditional pedals.

I'm with you on low-maintenance parts, but with practice overhauling
loose-bearing parts gets easier and faster.  If the GK's are
comfortable for you, it might be more cost effective to have a shop
overhaul them than buying new pedals.  Make sure they use a good
waterproof grease like a boat trailer axle grease to give them a
fighting chance in the rain.

Bill

On May 21, 8:33 pm, Mike S  wrote:
> I recently overhauled the bearings on my Gripkings (first time messing
> with ball bearings ever) and they are not spinning quite like I'd want
> them to. The right pedal, which I did second and I think put more
> grease on and did more carefully, is having a bit of a click from time
> to time, which I've seen mentioned in other posts here. It took my two
> hours to do the whole procedure, and I just don't have the time/
> patience to mess with these anymore.
>
> I love the platform of the Gripkings and I don't think it can be beat,
> but I am really disappointed with the quality of the seals and the
> high maintenance that they seem to require. I've looked all over for
> another platform pedal with BIG surface area and good performance
> without straps, and the best option looks like the V.O City or Touring
> Pedal. I like the idea of sealed cartridge bearings, being that I ride
> in the rain a lot, and I have very little patience for overhaul-type
> maintenance.
>
> I wanted to know if any of you all have experience using the V.O city
> or touring pedals. I would like the wider platform of the touring
> pedal, but I am concerned about cornering clearance with the touring,
> as these would be for my fixie QB, and I have chewed up the GK's some,
> even with their excellent clearance.
>
> The bottom line is I want a smooth and reliable pedal that offers
> maximum surface area (size 13.5 here), good grip without clips or
> straps, and good cornering clearance for fixed riding. I appreciate
> your opinions.

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[RBW] Re: Inquiry re Sagging Selle AnAtomica

[Bill M.]

You can't expect the SA to act like a Brooks, it's not supposed to.
It fits like a hammock.  As long as you're not bouncing off of the top
of the seatpost, it's not overstretched.  Whether that's a feeling you
like or not is up to you.

I weigh 180, and mine is a non-Clyde.  The sag stabilized with the
bolt about 2/3 of the way out.  I found I had too much inner thigh
friction on mine, so I laced the skirts in.  I also had to widen the
slot (per the directions) to keep the rear flaps from overlapping.

Bill

On May 23, 9:26 pm, reynoldslugs  wrote:
> After just a few rides on a brand-new Selle Anatomica, it looks like
> our old mule (Gladys) with a deeply swayed back.  The manufacturer's
> website seems to say, don't worry about the way this looks, just
> tighten it up a bit at a time until it's comfortable.
>
> I'm willing to follow the manufacturer's advice, but i'm pretty
> certain I've never seen a leather saddle sag and splay like this
> anytime in the last 30+ years of riding Ideales and Brooks.  Moreover,
> I have what is supposed to be the identical saddle (different color)
> on my Roadeo, and have not had any sagging at all.
>
> Anyone else experience this with the Anatomicas, or have words of
> advice/wisdom?
>
> FWIW, I'm a Clyde and this is their Clyde model, ostensibly.
>
> thanks.
> RL

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[RBW] Re: Inquiry re Sagging Selle AnAtomica

[Bill M.]

It doesn't look like the S-A site has changed at all in some time.  I
don't think that whoever is running he company is paying any attention
to the site.

Bill

On May 24, 9:09 am, Nick  wrote:

>
> BTW - regarding Selle AnAtomica the company -  Do any of you find it
> curious that their web page makes no mention of the founder's untimely
> death? I would expect that they would at least create a page dedicated
> to his legacy...

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[RBW] Re: Solutions for a Stripped Eyelet / Braze-On

[Bill M.]

Forcing a bolt through might be a good on-road repair, but a real
thread tap and handle don't cost much, and will do the job properly.
But then I'm a DIY kind of a guy.

Bill

On May 31, 11:38 am, Curtis Schmitt  wrote:
> Jim,
> Yes indeed that is VERY helpful! I hope this info can help someone else on
> the list as well (I changed the subject to increase odds of finding it in a
> search).
>
> That's a great idea going up a size or two to a 5 or a 6. I may look into
> doing that regardless, would be great to have heavier bolts down there if
> for no other reason than peace of mind. I'm glad that the fork (most likely)
> won't require more work than that.
>
> Curtis
>
> On Tue, May 31, 2011 at 2:30 PM, CycloFiend wrote:
>
>
>
> > Assuming a droput eyelet rather than a mid-fork...
> > either way, here's what I'd do:
> > - Remove the rack, and clean the threads (and the bolt) with a
> > brush/solvent. You may find that just the bolt threads were affected. You
> > may also find that it was only the first thread in the eyelet or so which
> > pulled out or was damaged.
> > - If it is clear that the threads on the eyelet have been _slightly_
> > damaged
> > (like one or two threads on the outside, from a too-short bolt), you might
> > try force-chasing with a new fresh bolt from the inside of the eyelet. If
> > you are all uneasy about doing this, skip to the next step...
> > - Take the fork to a good shop where they can chase the threads with a
> > proper tool.  Might just be able to save it with no further changes.
> > - If it's toast, then the same shop should be able to retap it for the next
> > size up (5 to a 6?) with a minimum of fuss.  Probably worth having them do
> > both sides so at least your rack uses the same bolt on both port and
> > starboard.
> > - If the eyelet lacks the meat to retap (and that's really doubtful, unless
> > it failed somehow), then you would have to get a new one installed, or go
> > to
> > a p-clamp mount.
>
> > Hope that helps!  Sounds like a great trip!
>
> > - Jim

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[RBW] Re: S72O - SFBay

[Bill M.]

I got rained on during my commute home today (Lodi to Stockton, in the
central valley east of SF).  Pretty mean wind out there, too.Hope your
weather is better than mine!

Bill

On May 31, 11:09 am, Joe Bernard  wrote:
> Thunderstorms predicted tomorrow. Not a good time to be on a bike.
>
> Joe Bernard
> Fairfield, CA.
>
> On May 31, 8:55 am, bicitourist  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Super excited today to be heading out on my first bike camping trip.  Last
> > day at my job of over 11 years. I start work next week and figured this was
> > the best adventure in my short time off!
>
> > The plan:
> > Last call is at 2:00pm today, bike is packed and ready to go. Meet at
> > Caltrains to catch the 3:44 to SF last stop.
> > Ride to China Camp and spend the night.
> > Ride back from China camp to Half moon bay; spend night 2 there.
> > And then head back to SJ to make it in time to my son's kindergarten
> > graduation.
>
> > I'll post pics when we get back. -Eddie

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[RBW] Re: Considering new pedals

[Bill M.]

Michael,

Before you blame the pedals, what about your shoes?  With proper sole
support you really shouldn't have a hot spot.  Perhaps a new pair of
insoles or some orthotics would be worth a try?

Bill

On Jun 1, 12:48 pm, MichaelH  wrote:
> About a decade ago I discovered Speedplay Frog Pedals and fell in love
> with them.  I have recommended them to many people and everybody who
> wanted an easy on and easy on the knees pedal loved them.  Gradually
> all my bikes got them.  But now I am developing a cronic hot spot on
> the ball of my foot and suspect that always using the same pedal might
> be a contributor, so have decided to go for some variety.  I have an
> old pair of useable Campy rat traps but like the idea of the wider MKS
> body on their touring pedal  But I see they also make a platform
> pedal, the GR 9.  I will probably ride these with sneakers or Keen
> Sandals, and large toe clips.  I have a large, size 13, foot.
>
> Has anyone used both of these?  What was your experience?
>
> Michael

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[RBW] FS: Tweed Nigel Smythe Country Bag

[Bill M.]

I have a Nigel Smythe Country Bag in green tweed for sale.  It's in
very good condition, having been used little either by me or by its
previous owner.  There are a couple of marks on the leather on the
bottom and towards the seatpost where they will be unseen in use, and
some slight (and inevitable) dog-earing of the blinky strap, but the
tweed cloth is near perfect to my eyes.  Included is a stiffener /
liner I cut from 1/16" LDPE sheet.  It weighs a couple of ounces, but
adds some 'structure' so that it doesn't flop around.  The liner is a
slip-in fit so it is installable / removable with no alterations to
the bag.

Selling because this bag would really best be used with a support or
rack, and I would prefer to keep this bike rackless if possible.

Asking $95 shipped to the lower 48.  Trades +/- cash for a similar-
condition Carradice Barley or Pendle, small Zimbale or similar
transverse saddle bag would be considered.

E-mail me off-list for photos.  Thanks for looking,

Bill Mennuti

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[RBW] Re: FS: Tweed Nigel Smythe Country Bag

[Bill M.]

Two responses already - I will post again if those fall through.

Bill

On Jun 2, 11:44 am, "Bill M."  wrote:
> I have a Nigel Smythe Country Bag in green tweed for sale.  It's in
> very good condition, having been used little either by me or by its
> previous owner.  There are a couple of marks on the leather on the
> bottom and towards the seatpost where they will be unseen in use, and
> some slight (and inevitable) dog-earing of the blinky strap, but the
> tweed cloth is near perfect to my eyes.  Included is a stiffener /
> liner I cut from 1/16" LDPE sheet.  It weighs a couple of ounces, but
> adds some 'structure' so that it doesn't flop around.  The liner is a
> slip-in fit so it is installable / removable with no alterations to
> the bag.
>
> Selling because this bag would really best be used with a support or
> rack, and I would prefer to keep this bike rackless if possible.
>
> Asking $95 shipped to the lower 48.  Trades +/- cash for a similar-
> condition Carradice Barley or Pendle, small Zimbale or similar
> transverse saddle bag would be considered.
>
> E-mail me off-list for photos.  Thanks for looking,
>
> Bill Mennuti

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[RBW] Re: Experiments in Rolling Resistance and Low Speed Stability

[Bill M.]

There is someone who has done the Markleeville Death Ride (150 miles,
15,000 feet of climbing in the high Sierra Nevada south of Lake Tahoe)
on a kick scooter.

At least you weren't 4000 feet below home!

Bill

On Jun 5, 5:40 pm, Robert Perks  wrote:
> Yesterday I set out on my Roadeo for a planned century ride up into the
> mountains north of Ventura.  The ride was cut short due to a mechanical with
> the freewheel.  Of course I was about 40 miles away from and 4000 feet above
> home with zero cell coverage for miles.  This is when what would have only
> previously been a thought experiment turned real.  Jack Brown greens 70lbs
> in front 80 in the rear with about a 260 bike, rider and gear load.  The
> goal was to get home without having to call for a ride.  No forward help
> from the drive train and only my walking or kicking feet to keep things
> moving.
>
> Details here:http://oceanaircycles.com/2011/06/05/metric-cross-training-ride/
> andhttp://wp.me/p19mfs-p2
>
> I kept the average speed home above 9mph, and was able to coast on slopes I
> previously thought were flat.  I can only imagine the average speeds I could
> have attained if I had tires of even lower rolling resistance.
>
> Anybody up for a really long distance soap box derby with different tires?
> This could be an interesting experiment if repeated with different tires or
> run with a group.
>
> --
> Rob Perks
> oceanaircycles.com

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[RBW] Re: can anyone relate--getting older (50) and back into cycling: finding drops not so easy...

[Bill M.]

52 years young here, and for me drops are the only comfortable long-
distance option.  I do have and like the Noodles, but I find that the
modern 'compact' or 'short-n-shallow' shaped bars have some
advantages.  The short drop makes the drop position easier to reach
without the raising tops so high that standing to climb feels
ungainly.  The short reach seems to me more appropriate when using
modern brake levers.  Long reach bars were designed for non-aero brake
levers.  Modern brake levers (be they brifters or Tektro or SRAM aero
levers) allow a hand position that's a couple of cm further forward
than did non-aero or even early aero levers.  The shorter reach of the
compact bars compensates for that extra reach.

I use a 3T Ergosum bar on my go-fast (with Campy brifters) and find
its very comfortable whether on the hoods, the ramps, the hooks or the
drops.  Unfortunately it's only available in black and 31.8.  Ritchie
now makes a bar called the Classic Curve that looks similar, same
drop, a bit less reach, still 31.8 but polished silver.  It should
look OK with a silver VO stem and a threadless adapter.

I have another bike with a Salsa Woodchipper off-road drop bar.  It's
very short reach, very short drop, very wide and very flared in the
drops.  It looks a bit awkward and makes parking the bike harder, but
once rolling I find it's pretty comfortable.

the Noodles are on my Riv, but with a shorter stem than I used to
ride.  Even with the tops at saddle height the drops feel low and the
hoods far away.  I'm tempted to try the Classic Curve on that bike.
I'm already using a threadless stem and adapter so the swap would be
easy.  And the threadless + adapter combo is actually lighter than the
Technomic Deluxe it replaced.

Bill

I really recommend you try a compact or short-n-shallow bar before you
write off drops.  Grinding into a headwind on North Roads just isn't a
lot of fun.

On Jun 6, 8:55 am, canali  wrote:
> just wondering if it's just me and i need to take my time adding the
> mileage and being consistent  and patient (and getting back into
> shape)
>
> OR do alot of us as we get older no longer find being so bent down as
> comfortable...thinking of swapping out drops on atlantis for jeff
> jones h loop bars or the north road bars.

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[RBW] Re: Women's Handlebar Recommendations?

[Bill M.]

There are many compact bars out there that might work.  Examples:
This comparison page is well worth a look:

http://ruedatropical.com/2009/03/road-drop-bar-geometry/

Bill


On Jun 6, 9:04 am, Rambouilleting Utahn  wrote:
> After complaining about her stock handle bars (specifically the reach
> to the brakes from the hooks) I recently replaced my wife's bars with
> a pair of Noodles. She liked them on her first 20 miler but after a 50
> mile ride on Saturday she wants them gone. Any recommendations from
> the smaller handed amongst us? Right now she is looking at the
> Specialized Shallow Bend Expert but hasn't seen them in person.
>
> Thanks in advance

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[RBW] Re: Double Top Tube Sam Hillborne

[Bill M.]

The top tube is loaded in more than just compression.  Back in the
'80's a Caltrans engineer named Rick Jorgensen did some FIA on frames,
and determined that the top tube is loaded in torsion.  Imagine
removing the down tube from a frame.  The force of pedaling would make
the seat tube want to deflect sideways, out of plane with the head
tube.  That force would be seen as twisting by the top tube.  The same
mechanism holds when the down tube is present.

That twisting mode of the frame is why I tend to think that the
'diagatube' design is actually a structural improvement over the
parallel undertube.  The middle of the seat tube is a great place for
the extra tube to try to resist twisting.  The 'marathion' tube in
some tandem designs works the same way which is why Jorgensen included
them in the Tango tandem frames he built.

A 56 Sam is too big for me, so it's really moot, but I'd regard the
extra tube as overkill for me and the way I would use a Sam.  I'm
actually going the other way, with a 650b Rawland Sogn built with
light .8/.5/.8 tubes and a 1" top tube.  I've never owned bike that I
thought was too flexible.  I also don't generally carry heavy touring
loads.

Bill

On Jun 7, 10:55 am, Phil Brown  wrote:
> The double top tube isn't really necessary. I once made a standard
> tube bike with a very light top tube as an experiment. I'm 6'3" and
> weighed at the time 210 and I could notice no difference from my other
> bikes with the same geometry and heavier top tubes. It's loaded in
> compression and doesn't need to be real heavy. It just locates the
> head and seat tubes the correct distance from each other.
> Phil Brown

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[RBW] Re: Wifes New Roadeo

[Bill M.]

Love the color.

A23's on White hubs?  I just built up a set of the same for my Riv
Road.  Nice stuff.

44/28 chainrings?  Ultra-compact gearing is a great way to go.

Nive job overall.

Bill

On Jun 14, 7:04 pm, Kelly Sleeper  wrote:
> Well here it is.  
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/tksleeper/sets/72157626963139970/

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell MTB? Rare Sighting

[Bill M.]

I think Tim is right, this is probably an All-Rounder with flat bars.
The giveaway is the level top tube, the Mountain-Expedition had a
sloping TT.

The bike on Cyclofiend's site is the M/E I once owned, which I believe
to be the bike used for the catalog photos.  I bought it at a "need-
cash-now" sale, not uncommon in Riv's early days, and sold it a couple
of years ago.  Like the one for sale, there's not a lot of fork rake,
and the bend is more dogleg than low'n'tight.  Here's another view
with a very different white balance:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/15750548@N04/4019037057/sizes/l/in/set-72157614095230958/

Bill

On Jun 15, 11:55 am, Tim McNamara  wrote:
> It's possible that's al All-Rounder built up with MTB bars.  I have a '96 A/R 
> and the frame is nearly identical in all the little details that I could see. 
>  

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell MTB? Rare Sighting

[Bill M.]

David,

Nice to see her built up and in use.  I always did think it was a
pretty frame, it was just a bit long in the top tube for me.

Bill

On Jun 16, 7:24 am, David Blessing  wrote:
> It's an old WT (wilderness trails) bar that I acquired a few years ago.  It's 
> been sitting in my shop waiting for the perfect use.  I've got it hemped and 
> shellacked, and it feels pretty good overall.  
> On Jun 16, 2011, at 8:52 AM, Leslie wrote:
>
>
>
> > David, what bars do you have on that bike?
>
> > On Jun 15, 10:19 pm, David Blessing  wrote:
> >> I bought the bike from Bill a couple of years ago.  It is just a wonderful 
> >> bike.  Not good at photos, but this attempt should show the way it is set 
> >> up now.   Cheers.  david blessing
>
> >>http://www.flickr.com/photos/60600619@N08/5838185994/in/photostream
>
> >> On Jun 15, 2011, at 7:33 PM, Bill M. wrote:
>
> >>> I think Tim is right, this is probably an All-Rounder with flat bars.
> >>> The giveaway is the level top tube, the Mountain-Expedition had a
> >>> sloping TT.
>
> >>> The bike on Cyclofiend's site is the M/E I once owned, which I believe
> >>> to be the bike used for the catalog photos.  I bought it at a "need-
> >>> cash-now" sale, not uncommon in Riv's early days, and sold it a couple
> >>> of years ago.  Like the one for sale, there's not a lot of fork rake,
> >>> and the bend is more dogleg than low'n'tight.  Here's another view
> >>> with a very different white balance:
>
> >>>http://www.flickr.com/photos/15750548@N04/4019037057/sizes/l/in/set-7...
>
> >>> Bill
>
> >>> On Jun 15, 11:55 am, Tim McNamara  wrote:
> >>>> It's possible that's al All-Rounder built up with MTB bars.  I have a 
> >>>> '96 A/R and the frame is nearly identical in all the little details that 
> >>>> I could see.  
>
> >>> --
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[RBW] Re: The bike collection (or hoard?)

[Bill M.]

My stable:

1995 Riv Road Std, with 46-30 x 11-32 gearing and the widest tires it
will fit (32 mm Vittoria Rando Hypers), as my comfortable cruising/
exploring/century bike.  I bought it new and expect the frame will
stay with me forever in one guise or another.

2006 (?) Calfee Tetra Pro, tutto Campagnolo, my go-fast club sport
bike.  One of the very few carbon frames I would trust enough to own.
Bought used for a fraction of it's new price.

1984 Miyata 1000 tourer, my dedicated commuter bike.  Bought new as a
frameset in 1983, another bike I never expect to sell.

1990-ish Steve Rex road bike, bought the frame used for a song in 1993
or 4.  Currently set up as a fixed gear with inverted Albatross bars.
Great riding frame that's a bit too long for me, should have sold it
years ago.

1999 (?) Burley Django recumbent, bought when I was having some
medical problems that made riding an upright bike problematic.  Hasn't
been ridden in two years now, I really need to sell this one.

Gen 1 Kogswell P/R, 650b.  I commuted on this bike for a year, but
it's a bit small for me.  Another bike I need to sell.

On order - Rawland rSogn, intended as an all-rounder, gravel roadster,
take camping, exploring bike.

Under consideration - Rawland Nordavinden, lightweight sportif/rando/
century bike with clearance for reasonably large tires.  If I go with
one of these, it would inherit the Riv's current parts, the Riv would
go fixed (maybe with an S-A S3X three speed fixed gear hub), and the
Rex would go away.  If I run into some money (not likely), an upgrade
to the proposed Ti version or to a Hampsten Crema, Riv Roadeo or
something comparable might be in the cards.

Bill

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[RBW] Re: HS

[Bill M.]

OK, my take on the HS:

Not a Pedersen, because "It's not a wack-job bike, out of character
with the others".  Besides, someone already makes them.

Single chainring + multi-speed = IGH.  I would expect to see the the
Alfine 11 with a J-tek bar end shifter, the Rohloff would seem a bit
pricey for this project.  Dynamo front hub.

FD is not an option = seat tube angle is too shallow for normal FD's
to work without the cage hitting the chainstay, so no provision will
be made for one.

The major choice would be brake style, cantilever or brazed-on
centerpull.

Bill

On Jun 17, 4:55 pm, Pondero  wrote:
> Let the speculation begin...
>
> http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/knothole_post/365

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[RBW] Re: HS

[Bill M.]

Modern, high-strength timing belts don't like to be bent backwards or
crimped tightly.  Forcing them to do so can cause them to de-
laminate.

Bill

On Jun 21, 9:03 pm, charlie  wrote:
> I'm not sure either but I read some info on these Gates belts and
> supposedly you can't just fold em up in you saddlebag for a spare as
> it damages them somehow. I've seen plenty of timing belts crap out on
> autos and I know they are tough I just don't like the idea as a
> replacement for a bicycle chain. Clean & quiet they are but I want to
> see how they perform over a longer time period for bicycles.
>
> On Jun 21, 6:21 pm, Ray Shine  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Interesting. I wonder why the Kevlar drive would be so much more prone to 
> > failure than the Kevlar drive belt on my 1400cc motorcycle, which has never 
> > failed or had a problem? Different Kevlar?
>
> > >
> > >From: charlie 
> > >To: RBW Owners Bunch 
> > >Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2011 5:54 PM
> > >Subject: [RBW] Re: HS
>
> > >Well.I hear those belts are finicky and can be damaged if not
> > >handled properly. Carrying a spare is not such an easy task either due
> > >to how you have to maintain the shape or whatever, besides the link
> > >chain revolutionized the world and I can fix it myself.
> > >The idea of disc brakes appeals to me though since it rains here so
> > >much your rims get ground to nothing in no time.
>
> > >On Jun 21, 2:48 pm, doug peterson  wrote:
> > >> Jamison:
>
> > >> Good for you to be in a position & have the faith to sign up.
> > >> Hopefully the first run will get scattered all over the country and
> > >> NOT concentrated around San Francisco Bay.  Then the rest of us could
> > >> have a hope of seeing one in person.  All this speculation is
> > >> intriguing but I predict Grant's got a few surprises in store for us.
> > >> I gotta admit the dual range crank coupled with an IGH, using a belt
> > >> drive, has a lot of merit, at least in concept.
>
> > >> dougP
>
> > >> On Jun 21, 8:31 am, jamison brosseau 
> > >> wrote:
>
> > >> > I signed up.  I know nothing though.  It will b a good bike.
>
> > >> > On Jun 20, 10:58 pm, William  wrote:
>
> > >> > > and now SEVEN of them are sold.  I'm pleasantly surprised.  I'm
> > >> > > waiting for a lister to speak up and say that they've put their money
> > >> > > down.
>
> > >> > > On Jun 20, 7:09 pm, "Bill Gibson (III)" 
> > >> > > wrote:
>
> > >> > > > Retro-direct, anyone?
>
> > >> > > > My guess is that he means it when theHSwill be a more "elegant", 
> > >> > > > maybe a
> > >> > > > more "integrated" design. It may be less of a bike meant to be 
> > >> > > > widely
> > >> > > > adaptable to different configurations, as many Rivendell designs 
> > >> > > > are. But it
> > >> > > > won't be a single-purpose bike at all.
>
> > >> > > > On Mon, Jun 20, 2011 at 6:34 PM, charlie 
> > >> > > >  wrote:
> > >> > > > > Yea that looks pretty cooloff road looking which seems 
> > >> > > > > to be
> > >> > > > > where the Riv folks ride quite a bit.
>
> > >> > > > > On Jun 20, 5:29 pm, Montclair BobbyB 
> > >> > > > > wrote:
> > >> > > > > > Read more about it here...
>
> > >> > > > > >http://tinyurl.com/3g7eyk4
>
> > >> > > > > > Could this be it???  If so, that's some pretty funky stuff...
>
> > >> > > > > > On Jun 20, 8:22 pm, Montclair BobbyB 
> > >> > > > > > 
> > >> > > > > > wrote:
>
> > >> > > > > > > OK folks... HERE is the solution toHS (And thanks 
> > >> > > > > > > Esteban for
> > >> > > > > > > giving me a clue)... It stands for Hammerschmidt... it's a 
> > >> > > > > > > 2-speed
> > >> > > > > > > crankset developed by SRAM (similar to the Schlumpf) with a 
> > >> > > > > > > built-in
> > >> > > > > > > transmission (in the crank).  It obviates the need for a 
> > >> > > > > > > front
> > >> > > > > > > derailleur.  The question is whether this will be an all-out 
> > >> > > > > > > front AND
> > >> > > > > > > rear internal transmission bike... I say yes, it will.
>
> > >> > > > > > > OK, everyone can watch reality TV once again, I'm spent
>
> > >> > > > > > > Peace,
> > >> > > > > > > BB
>
> > >> > > > > > > On Jun 20, 7:47 pm, Roger  wrote:
>
> > >> > > > > > > > "I'm not familiar with the SA 8-speed.  Is the shifter 
> > >> > > > > > > > indexed or
> > >> > > > > just
> > >> > > > > > > > the hub?"
>
> > >> > > > > > > > The SA 8-speed hub isn't indexed, but it definitely wants 
> > >> > > > > > > > to be
> > >> > > > > > > > centered into each gear without much feedback. Supposedly 
> > >> > > > > > > > Sheldon
> > >> > > > > > > > Brown could do it, but like 99% of the things Sheldon 
> > >> > > > > > > > could do, it
> > >> > > > > was
> > >> > > > > > > > beyond my skills. I miss Sheldon.
>
> > >> > > > > > > > Part of the allure of the thumbshifter (which would be 
> > >> > > > > > > > about equal
> > >> > > > > > > > with a barend shifter) was that I used the 
> > >> > > > > > > > wheel/cable/shifter setup
> > >> > > > > > > 

[RBW] Re: Stem sizing for Albatross and Moustache bars

[Bill M.]

If I needed a 90 cm stem with a Noodle, I would not be able to get a
short enough stem for comfort with a Moustache bar.  With an M there
are no tops, so it's like being on the hoods full time only lower
because the M bars have a little drop to them.  A 60 might work.  My
most successful application of M's was on a bike that was otherwise
too small for me.

With Albatrosses I'd want a 120, maybe longer.

Other opinions are sure to vary.

Bill

On Jul 1, 7:39 pm, rw1911  wrote:
> I currently have Noodles with a 110 Nitto stem which ideally should be
> a 100 or maybe even a 90 (tops are great, hoods are just a bit far)
>
> Anyway, I've been thinking about trying either the Albatross or
> Moutstache bars.  Can you share your experience in regards to stem
> length for these bars relative to what you use for a drop bar like the
> Noddle?
>
> I'm thinking I would use a slightly longer stem for the Albatross and
> a slightly shorter for the Moustache?

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[RBW] Re: 650 vs. 650B

[Bill M.]

I think most of us just use 26" MTB tubes of the appropriate width.
Works fine for me.

Bill

On Jul 2, 6:55 pm, kevin lindsey  wrote:
> No doubt a dumb question, but here goes: is there a difference between
> 650 and 650B tubes?  I just bought three sets of 650x18s for my
> Bleriot, only to find that they look suspiciously thin for my 36mm
> 650Bs.
> Anyone know where I can buy 650B tubes in northern Virginia?
> Thanks,
> Kevin

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[RBW] Re: Hunqapillar, interesting fork detail

[Bill M.]

How about using a Mark's rack with four point mounting?  Should be
more stable than mounting to the center of the fork crown.   I have
one of those "other bikes" also, and hacked a four point mount for a
cheap Nashbar rack that stiffened it up write a bit.

Bill

On Jul 4, 6:21 pm , Joe Bernard  wrote:
> After ogling Geoff's new Hunqapillar for a while, I went over to Rivbike to
> do some more ogling, and discovered an odd detail: The forks are threaded on
> top of the crown so you can mount a rear rack on the front. Um..why? Is
> there a benefit to doing this over mounting a nice front Nitto I'm not aware
> of?
>
> Joe Bernard
> Fairfield, CA

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[RBW] Re: Thoughts on tubeless?

[Bill M.]

I'm running 650b Big Ones on Pacenti SL23 rims, which are designed for 
tubeless tires, and Stan's tape.  The tires seated up perfectly on the 
first try, and held air decently even without sealant.  With a couple of 
ounces of Orange Seal they have been flat-free and trouble-free, and roll 
very nicely.  I would not be confident that the Dyads would work as well. 
 I'd try them with tubes, at least at first.  

Bill

On Monday, May 9, 2016 at 6:43:22 PM UTC-7, Reed Kennedy wrote:
>
> I've been loving my new-to-me Hunqapillar, but I gotta say it does feel a 
> bit sluggish at times with 2.15" Schwalbe Big Bens on there. 
>
> I'm going to give the lighter Schwalbe Big Ones a shot. It looks like the 
> ones I've ordered are tubeless-compatible, so I was thinking of giving that 
> a shot. Anyone who's tried it willing to share their thoughts?
>
> Also, is Stans No Tubes the way to go, or is there a better option?
>
>
> Best,
> Reed
>

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[RBW] Re: Mark's/M18 failures?

[Bill M.]

I agree that the diving board is the weak point of the M18.  I used my M18 
for a while on the rear of a bike as a support for a Carradice Camper.  It 
was actually a great fit, but the diving board eventually bent under a load 
of groceries and allowed the rack to start rubbing the tire.  A little 
force bent it back enough to get me home.  I now use panniers on a Tubus 
Ergo low-rider to carry heavier loads on that bike.  My Camper is sitting 
idle for lack of a better support solution. 

I'm not sure that I would trust the Mark's rack to work better for that 
application, but in that case I might expect the mounting bolts to rotate 
under load rather than the struts bending.  

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Saturday, June 27, 2015 at 7:31:56 PM UTC-7, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> How has your Marks or M18 front rack held up over the years? Do the tang 
> bolts loosen, or has everything stayed put for you?
> .
>

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[RBW] Re: Jones on the trade/sale block so I can get a Riv

[Bill M.]

Seconded.

On Thursday, July 21, 2016 at 10:09:40 AM UTC-7, ian m wrote:
>
> I am interested in pics and price
>
> On Thursday, July 21, 2016 at 7:28:11 AM UTC-4, Andrew Huston wrote:
>>
>> I totally understand if this is against the rules but since it involves a 
>> Riv, maybe its ok?
>> I am trying to sell my Jones Diamond to fund the purchase of a 
>> Hunq/Atlantis/Joe App and thought I'd see if anyone is in the market to buy 
>> or swap. Local market is crummy. 
>> Full XT build facilitated by conversation with Jeff.  My PBH is 84 and 
>> set up accordingly however the frame is versatile to a variety of rider 
>> sizes.  I am looking for a 51 Hunq/Joe App or 54.5 /56 Atlantis.  May be a 
>> long shot but, eh.  
>>
>

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[RBW] FS: Black B66, Brown VO Modael 6 saddles, Phil Wood cassette hubset 32h

[Bill M.]

'Tis season to clear out some nice parts that aren't getting used:

Black Brooks B66 saddle with Seat Sandwich.  Little ridden, too wide
for my riding style.  The leather is unmarked and just shows a little
shaping in the sit bone area.  The black-painted rails have some
minimal scratching where the Seat Sandwich hits them, nothing that
would be visible when the saddle is mounted on a seatpost.  The Seat
Sandwich adapts the dual-rail saddle to a Campy-type one-bolt seatpost
(Crystal Fellow, Kalloy, etc.), it won't work with a two-bolt clamp
(VO, Nitto S-83, etc.).  $65 + shipping.

Velo Orange Model 6 saddle, brown leather.  Probably under 100 miles,
looks as new.  Too narrow for my sit bones.  Too bad, I like the
laminated leather these are made of.  If you are a fan of narrower
racing saddles, this might be just the ticket for you.  $45 +
shipping.

Phil Wood hubs - 32 hole front and 32 hole/135 mm rear cassette hub.
These are currently built into a set of wheels for a recumbent, 20"
front / 26" rear, with black Velocity Aeroheat rims (machined
sidewalls) and 1.8 mm stainless spokes.  Both hubs spin and shine
like, well, like Phil hubs do.  The freehub body shows some slight
notches on the driving edges of the splines, nothing that would affect
the function of the hub.  Both rims spin straight and true but show
slight brake track wear.  This is a used set of wheels, but they have
been well cared for and are in excellent condition.  Selling because
I'm no longer riding the 'bent, and these hubs are overkill for any
riding I anticipate doing in the future.

As nobody here is likely to need a 20/26 wheelset, I'm asking $350 +
shipping based on the value of the hubs (Riv's current price for the
same hubs is $525).  If you just want the hubs, I'll cut the spokes
and ship just the hubs and you'll save a bunch on shipping.  If you
want one or both wheels intact, that's fine, same price, just a bigger
box to ship.

Please respond off-list.  Sincere offers cheerfully considered,
outrageous low-balling cheerfully ignored.  Photos on request for
those seriously interested.  Thanks for looking.

Bill Mennuti

P.S.  If you need a nice recumbent to go with those snazzy wheels, I
have a Burley Django I haven't ridden in nearly two years - drop me a
line off-list!

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[RBW] Re: FS: Black B66, Brown VO Modael 6 saddles, Phil Wood cassette hubset 32h

[Bill M.]

The VO saddle is spoken for.

Bill

On Nov 19, 4:01 pm, "Bill M."  wrote:
> 'Tis season to clear out some nice parts that aren't getting used:
>
> Black Brooks B66 saddle with Seat Sandwich.  Little ridden, too wide
> for my riding style.  The leather is unmarked and just shows a little
> shaping in the sit bone area.  The black-painted rails have some
> minimal scratching where the Seat Sandwich hits them, nothing that
> would be visible when the saddle is mounted on a seatpost.  The Seat
> Sandwich adapts the dual-rail saddle to a Campy-type one-bolt seatpost
> (Crystal Fellow, Kalloy, etc.), it won't work with a two-bolt clamp
> (VO, Nitto S-83, etc.).  $65 + shipping.
>
> Velo Orange Model 6 saddle, brown leather.  Probably under 100 miles,
> looks as new.  Too narrow for my sit bones.  Too bad, I like the
> laminated leather these are made of.  If you are a fan of narrower
> racing saddles, this might be just the ticket for you.  $45 +
> shipping.
>
> Phil Wood hubs - 32 hole front and 32 hole/135 mm rear cassette hub.
> These are currently built into a set of wheels for a recumbent, 20"
> front / 26" rear, with black Velocity Aeroheat rims (machined
> sidewalls) and 1.8 mm stainless spokes.  Both hubs spin and shine
> like, well, like Phil hubs do.  The freehub body shows some slight
> notches on the driving edges of the splines, nothing that would affect
> the function of the hub.  Both rims spin straight and true but show
> slight brake track wear.  This is a used set of wheels, but they have
> been well cared for and are in excellent condition.  Selling because
> I'm no longer riding the 'bent, and these hubs are overkill for any
> riding I anticipate doing in the future.
>
> As nobody here is likely to need a 20/26 wheelset, I'm asking $350 +
> shipping based on the value of the hubs (Riv's current price for the
> same hubs is $525).  If you just want the hubs, I'll cut the spokes
> and ship just the hubs and you'll save a bunch on shipping.  If you
> want one or both wheels intact, that's fine, same price, just a bigger
> box to ship.
>
> Please respond off-list.  Sincere offers cheerfully considered,
> outrageous low-balling cheerfully ignored.  Photos on request for
> those seriously interested.  Thanks for looking.
>
> Bill Mennuti
>
> P.S.  If you need a nice recumbent to go with those snazzy wheels, I
> have a Burley Django I haven't ridden in nearly two years - drop me a
> line off-list!

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[RBW] Re: Splats and 'Cho

[Bill M.]

Yehuda?  Is that you?

http://www.rivbike.com/images/products/full//3854/22-139m.jpg


On Nov 18, 4:25 pm, scott  wrote:
> They unveiled the Splats and Poncho today. Both look good. The splats
> are fun and functional. I usually use grocery bags with rubber bands
> in rain on my way to work. This seems like a better option and made in
> america! The Poncho I'll bet is super, but I already have a Duxback
> Cape that will last me a hundred years. It is great that Riv has spent
> time and effort (money) developing a rainwear system. Pants,
> sou'wester, spats, and cape. Seems perfect to me. I'll never wear rain
> pants, but I'll bet some folks do. Whataya think gang?
>
>    Scott

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[RBW] Re: Need HELP! ^*&*%^&(bolt sheared off)

[Bill M.]

How much of the bolt is sticking out?  Enough to grab with a
ViseGrip?  If so, I'd try that first.  Make sure to grab it REALLY
tight or it will just slip and make things worse.

If it's flush with the post, an Easy Out screw extractor might be your
first option.

A good LBS or frame builder might be preferable to a machine shop,
they will be a little more sensitive to not messing up the post or the
frame.

Once the bolt is out, be sure to have the post threads chased with a
bottom tap to clean upwhatever hung up the bolt in the first place!

Bill


On Nov 20, 1:11 pm, jennings  wrote:
> I am sick as a dog.  Just got my Tektro cr720 brakes in and got the
> rear ones on no problem.  Start putting one of the front ones in and
> the bolt threads fine the first 3/4 of the way then starts to get
> tight and as I tighten it a little more the head shears off.  What do
> you guys recommend.  I guess I will have to take it to a machine shop
> and see if they can weld ot the bolt on there now and see if we can
> reverse it.  Any other suggestions.

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[RBW] Thanks to the list for tihs tip

[Bill M.]

I was web crawling on the topic of ultra-compact double cranksets last
night and found this post from list member benzzoy last March:

"I don't particularly like the look of the Davinci or the TA Carmina
cranks.

I do love Campagnolo's last generation Record/Chorus triples, that
were unfortunately discontinued.  These cranks are sleek, beautifully
finished (polished and anodized) and can be had rather cheaply (<$100
for a NOS) if one is patient on eBay.  The Q-factor is not more than
160mm and that isn't unreasonably wide for a triple.  About the only
significant blemish is that they usually come in a 53/42/30
configuration that I understand isn't terribly useful for some
(including myself, for the most part).

Nevertheless, at <$100, you can get whatever chainrings* you wish at
Ribble and still be below $200 total, especially if you sell the
originals as these can fetch at least $40 on eBay when new.  Another
complicating factor is that these cranks use the ISO taper and the
spindle is asymmetrical, so you either have to use the correct
Campagnolo or Phil's version.  Even accounting for the essentially
proprietary and thus rather expensive bottom bracket, the total bill
is still a reasonable $300 or whereabouts for the crank, bottom
bracket and . "

As it happens, I had found an NOS Campy record Triple crank in my
preferred 172.5 length a few months ago on a closeout table at the
local Performance.  I didn't have an immediate plan for it, but
couldn't pass it by at $50 (!).  Without the above post, I never would
have found a reasonably priced 46 tooth 135 mm inner ring for that
crank.  But with the above tip, and a closeout price on the
increasingly scarce Campy assymetrical 111 mm bottom bracket, I'll
have put together a very pretty 46-30 compact double for around $170
complete.  It will either find a home on a friend's Kogswell P58, or
on a new 650b project I'm thinking about taking on.

Thanks, benzzoy!

Bill

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[RBW] Re: Non Brooks Saddle recommendations please.

[Bill M.]

I've tried a couple of WTB saddles (Vigo and Pure V), and while
they're OK, neither completely got rid of my soft tissue discomfort.

Two that do work for me are a Specialized Alias on my go-fast, and the
wider Terry Liberator Y "Gelissimo". For a B17 replacement, I'd
recommend the Terry.  its gel layer is firm enough to not feel
squishy, and the cutout is well placed to relieve the pressure that
causes me pain.

BTW, I have slotted a B17 and a Flyer, and that does help.  My
process:  Start with a 1/2" drill to enlarge the existing vent holes,
drill more holes in between and (for my anatomy) one more hole forward
of the forward hole, then trim out the waste with a razor knife.  A
sharp vegetable peeler works well as a skiver to smooth and shape the
edge of the cutout.  Ride it, see where you still have contact with
the edges, and trim to suit.  If you reach underneath and give
yourself a poke, you may be amazed at how much flesh extends through
the hole - all that was getting crushed before   You might want to
wait until the neighbors aren't looking to try that.  Burnish the raw
cut edge with some Proofide and the round shaft of a screwdriver.  If
the saddle wants to sag too much, drill a few holes along the bottom
edge and lace it up with a leather shoelace.

Bill

On Nov 22, 7:02 am, JGS  wrote:
> Hey there,
>
> I've been riding w/ Brooks saddle for several years and I've come to
> worry that I'm putting too much pressure on my softer parts.  I've try
> adjustments but I'd love to know if anyone has a recommendation for a
> simple saddle w/ a slot to protect me that might be great and look
> good w/ my Atlantis.
>
> Thanks so much!

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[RBW] Re: Paceline Thoughts | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

[Bill M.]

Putah Creek Road?

On Nov 28, 9:40 am, Eric Norris  wrote:
> Photo of me on my Riv ... with commentary.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176...@n03/5214550337/
>
> --Eric
> campyonly...@me.comwww.campyonly.comwww.wheelsnorth.org

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[RBW] Re: FS: Rawland Drakkar complete bike medium Stronglight compact crank etc.

[Bill M.]

Nice bike!  Luckily it's a size too big for me, or I'd be way too
tempted.

http://www.xo-1.org/2010/09/sean-virnig-and-rawland-drakkar-win.html

Bill

On Nov 29, 6:59 am, hobie  wrote:
> Rawland Drakkar medium green sparkle Columbus Zona Nivacrom tubing.The
> frame was purchased from Rawland late spring of this year. I finished
> the build 3 months later so the bike has seen very little usage. I can
> describe the ride as quick and nimble,and very responsive, climbs
> excellent. Overall a very nice bike with the option to use 700c wheels
> or 650b.Tons of clearence for both size wheels.Beautiful Pacenti Bi-
> plane lugged fork crown. Fender and rack mounts 3- water bottle
> bosses. The bike can do it all. Won "Best in Show" award at the Rough
> Riders rally annual shindig this past summer. The build is as follows:
>
> 1- Velocity Blunt 28mm wide 650b silver rims laced to DT Hugi Hayes
> Swiss made silver disc hubs,w. Salsa flip off skewers silver and
> Panaracer Fatty Rumpkins
> 2- Avid BB7 disc brakes
> 3- Nitto UI-5gx threadless stem
> 4- Cane Creek S3 threadless headset
> 5- Soma Moustache bars
> 6- Tektro Drop v brake levers
> 7- Selle An-Atomica Titanico Watershed brown saddle
> 8- Control Tech 27.2 silver seatpost
> 9- Shimano bar end shifters 8 speed
> 10-Shimano LX rear derailer
> 11- Shimano 8 speed cassette
> 12- Campagnola Chorus double front derailer
> 13- Stronglight Isis Compact double 29 concept crankset 44t/29t 7075
> rings 175mm
> 14- Stronglight Isis BB
> 15- Panaracer Fatty Rumpkin 650b tires
> 16- New Brown cloth tape.
>
> The frame,wheelset,stem,headset, brakes,skewers,levers I purchased new
> and the rest are in excellent condition.Asking $1,400 shipped

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[RBW] Re: OT: Lugged Bikes vs.Timber-Frames

[Bill M.]

Thinking of bikes, timber frames, beautiful construction and nice
joinery leads me to think of:

http://www.renovobikes.com/gallery-r4-pursuit/

Bill

On Nov 30, 4:00 am, Marty  wrote:
> Lugged bikes are like timber-framed structures; both beautiful,
> neither wanting to cover up the joinery, strong, built to last, did I
> say beautiful?
>
> There's a new/old grain mill being built near home in PA (actually
> just inside Northern Maryland, on Amos Mill Road) ). Replaces an
> antique mill that just about fell down. Owned by the Amos family -
> same as ever. The Amish are taking care of the framing. I happened to
> ride by on a rest day (for the Amish, not me) , and took a bunch of
> photos of something you rarely see. What an honor!
>
> http://tinyurl.com/2az5myp
>
> Marty

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[RBW] Re: Roadeo vs AHH. Your thoughts?

[Bill M.]

According to one member of our club (he may chime in here), the Roadeo
he has now is built lighter than the Ram he once owned.  I believe
that Homer would be heavier than either.

Bill

On Dec 5, 5:07 pm, cyclotourist  wrote:
> Are you sure that the Roadeo has lighter tubing?  I thought at some point
> the discussion was that they both are built with 8-5-8 maintubes.  Not
> trying to hijack the conversation, but I remember it was a discussion at one
> point.
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, Dec 5, 2010 at 4:59 PM, Jim M.  wrote:
> > Definitely get a Roadeo. It's a great bike with lighter tubing than
> > the AHH. If you know you won't be carrying much load, it will do what
> > you're looking for in an exemplary fashion. The Roadeo head angle for
> > a 59 is 1 degree steeper than the AHH, and the top tube is about the
> > same (58 vs 58.2), so the fit will be pretty similar. The AHH is a
> > great bike too but if you want the racier feel, the Roadeo is it.
>
> > On Dec 5, 3:34 pm, Kentileguy  wrote:
> > > Its cold and snowy in the Chicago area, and there's not much to do
> > > except sit in front of the computer and talk myself into a new bike.
> > > So...I'm considering a new Roadeo. Has anyone ridden both the Roadeo
> > > and the Hilsen? Can you compare and contrast? I'm particularly curious
> > > about positioning on the Roadeo. Is it similar to the Hilsen? I
> > > currently own a slightly too large 59 cm AHH . It would seem that I've
> > > found a "sweet spot" comfort wise with a 7cm stem and 44 cm Nitto
> > > Noodles set about level with the seat. I spent the entire summer
> > > trying to decide if I like it or not. I'm still undecided but I've
> > > certainly enjoyed riding it. I have had a problem with hand numbness
> > > and it is the only bike I've ridden that I can go farther than 20
> > > miles without experiencing tingly fingers. I tried something different
> > > on my last ride, switching from an  XT/ Synergy / Jack Brown wheelset
> > > to a significantly lighter Ultegra /Open Pro / 28mm Pasela
> > > wheelset.The difference was amazing,  I felt like I was riding a
> > > comfortable race bike. I'm now thinking that a lighter, quicker
> > > handling  Roadeo  is just what I've been looking for. A typical ride
> > > for me is 20 -60 miles on a mix of pavement and crushed limestone bike
> > > trail with a little bit of smooth singletrack.  If you've ridden both
> > > and have an opinion I would love to hear it.
> > > Thanks, Ken
>
> > --
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> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
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> > .
> > For more options, visit this group at
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>
> --
> Cheers,
> David
> Redlands, CA
>
> *...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would
> probably benefit more from
> improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS

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[RBW] Re: Front racks with fender bosses for the Ram?

[Bill M.]

Depending on where the eyelets are mounted, this might work:

http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/racks-decaleurs/racks/vo-randonneur-front-rack-stainless-steel.html

There's also a version with an integrated decaleur.

Bill

On Dec 11, 7:31 am, Will M  wrote:
> I’ve been talking offline to Mike “Leaf Slayer” about this; thought
> I’d open up the question to a larger audience.
>
> If you had a Ram (i.e., standard caliper brakes) and Riv's fork braze-
> ons for a small front rack, the Mark’s Rack is the best choice right?
> (i.e., thishttp://www.flickr.com/photos/41335...@n00/4436889284)
>
> But what if you also wanted a front rack with a fender attachment boss
> under the middle cross-piece, a la the Nitto M12?  Has anyone here
> found such a rack with a fender boss that works with caliper brakes
> and the Rivendell rack braze-ons (without going custom)?  Thanks.
>
> Will

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[RBW] Re: Shimmy, according to BQ

[Bill M.]

I also have a first-generation Kogswell P/R.  It shimmied badly with a
5 - 10 pound load in a Wald basket zip-tied to the top of a Blackburn
rear rack.  I could feel the weight of the load wagging like a dog's
tail.  With the same commuting payload in panniers on the same rack,
no shimmy.  There was a small rack trunk containing a couple of pounds
of tubes, tools, granola bars and headlight batteries on a front rack
in either case.  The headset is the cheap ball bearing unit that came
with the frame.

My Riv Road has never shimmied, nor have any of my other bikes.

Bill

On Dec 11, 6:12 am, EricP  wrote:
> Two (hopefully quick) examples from my limited experience in the past
> few years.  Worst shimmy ever had was on a 1st generation Kogswell
> that Esteban now owns.  Would even shimmy when riding with both hands
> on the bars.  A guess - my weight at the time acted to overload the
> bike causing the shimmy.  Some day would love to ride that bike again
> and see if my losing 40 or so pounds from that time makes a
> difference.
>
> My Sam Hillborne had some tendency to shimmy in certain occasions.
> Even with Marathon Supreme tires.  Earlier this summer had Hiawatha
> Cyclery install a Shimano 105 headset instead of the one that comes
> with the bike.  Shimmy has stopped.  A number of reasons that could
> be.  No matter what, am even a happier camper with the bike.
>
> Still waiting for my BQ.
>
> Eric Platt
> St. Paul, MN
>
> On Dec 11, 1:13 am, CycloFiend  wrote:
>
>
>
> > on 12/10/10 10:03 AM, William at tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> > > Since I'm growing convinced that there might not be anyone who really
> > > understands shimmy, I'm going to run some experiments of my own on my
> > > Hillborne to attempt to understand it more.  Since that bike, in it's
> > > current state, shimmies willingly when riding no-handed at 15mph on a
> > > smooth flat road, I think I have a decent baseline and reasonably
> > > reproducable test environment.  I'm going to try several (numerous?)
> > > things, and I'll at least try to take better than normal notes, and
> > > see if I can learn anything.
>
> > There have been several significant discussions of shimmy on the iBob list
> > reasonably recently and  over the years.
>
> > Ride buddy JimG has also documented his shimmy experiences and
> > expermenting/troubleshooting with a non-Rivendell bicycle via his blog
> > (which can be found viahttp://yojimg.net/bike)
>
> > There are certainly variables he found to damp or reduce speed-specific
> > oscillations.  
>
> >http://sfcyclotouring.blogspot.com/search?q=shimmy
>
> > And just to mention too, that a general discussion of BQ articles is
> > probably best discussed on a more general list.
>
> > - Jim
>
> > --
> > Jim Edgar
> > cyclofi...@earthlink.net
>
> > Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
> > Current Classics - Cross Bikes
> > Singlespeed - Working Bikes
>
> > Gallery updates now appear here -http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com
>
> > "Then I sat up, wiped the water out of my eyes, and looked at my bike, and
> > just like that I knew it was dead"
>
> > -- Robert McCammon, "Boy's Life"

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[RBW] Re: Wheel Lights Pondering

[Bill M.]

Reflective tape intended for use inside the rim was once sold under
the name Sidelights.  The package looked like this:

http://www.metroped.org/sc/sidelight.htm

They were very reflective, and showed up well from the front, back or
sides.  I haven't seen them in years.  The advent of v-section rims
may have done them in, they would not have conformed well to the sharp
bend.

I don't think that standard reflective tapes would work as well, but
it could still do some good.  I do like reflective sidewall tires for
commuting at night.

Bill

On Dec 12, 11:52 am, Peter Pesce  wrote:
> I read a suggestion somewhere (Sheldon?  PJW?) to put reflective tape
> strips on the INSIDE of the rim, facing the hub. Since this surface
> faces alternately front and rear, and is in motion, it is supposedly
> very effective.
>
> Anybody doing this?
>
> Pete
> On Dec 12, 10:55 am, JimD  wrote:
>
>
>
> > On my commute for dark times of the year I want to be REAL visible.
>
> > My take is that making oneself visible among many car lights, various  
> > street lights, and
> > commercial signage, one's bike can't be over lit.
>
> > I have 2 bright front LED lights, a Dinotte rear light and accompany  
> > the Dinotte with two planet bike blinkys.
> > I'm using the Riv wheel reflectors, Riv ankle reflectors, and a  
> > reflective vest. I have an eos led on my helmet
> > (mainly for getting the attention of cars at intersections). I'm going  
> > for the 'It Came From OuterSpace' look
> > and it seems to work.
>
> > Riding home on Friday I met a bicycler with Niteiz Spokelits on his  
> > front wheel.
> > When he was moving his bike  was quite visible from the side.
> > Looking on the Google I see that these use CR2016 batteries so that  
> > isn't such a good thing.
> > As lights go they aren't too dear ~ USD $ 8.
>
> > Anyone using Spokelits?
>
> > I'm also intrigued by Monkey Lights but my lighting compulsion isn't  
> > so strong (yet) that I'm going to
> > spend ~ USD $ 60. They do look like fun but a bit of a kludge.
>
> > Light em up,
> > JimD

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[RBW] Re: Shimmy, according to BQ NRC

[Bill M.]

You sure he didn't mean a 26" frame size (not wheel size)?

On Dec 12, 11:42 am, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> On Sun, 2010-12-12 at 14:40 -0500, Robert Zeidler wrote:
> > I concur with your opinion on the Paramount.  I, too, have a few of the 26" 
> > bikes, all 531 , and find they are rock steady.  Is this a 27" wheel thing 
> > maybe?
>
> I do not recall a 1972 Paramount coming with 26" wheels.  FWIW, mine had
> 27".  The other option was tubulars.

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[RBW] Re: A blinding glimpse of the obvious......

[Bill M.]

The article leaves many unanswered questions.  How much did he carry
on his commute, how often did he need to stop, were there hills to
climb, did he monitor his efforts by heart rate to screen out
unintentional bias, was he trying to ride to the same perceived effort
or the same speed?  What tires were on each bike?

The upshot is that lightweight bicycles are in their element in
sporting riding/racing where weight can make some difference, not
commuting where stop signs and luggage make a couple of pounds on the
frame moot.  Different horses for different courses.

Bill

On Dec 14, 3:27 am, George Millwood 
wrote:
> It is so nice when scientists use their lesiure time to enlighten the
> public
>
> http://www.smh.com.au/executive-style/fitness/in-cycling-its-a-case-o...
>
> In our case it is preaching to the converted but it is still nice to
> see it in print.
>
> George Millwood
> Atlantis No 93
> Wollongong Australia
>
> Yes, I have left the great metropolis of Sydney and relocated to the
> coastal city of Wollongong.  This is the steel making heart of
> Australia but thanks to closed hearth furnaces it is now but a
> different skyline.  I now live one and a half blocks from a couple of
> glorious beaches and enjoy a coastal cyclepath that gently winds along
> the cost past rockpools, the aforementioned steelworks and golden
> sands that stretch for miles.  You can look it up on Google Maps.

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[RBW] Re: Mid-Day Ramble - Ramble

[Bill M.]

It looks like the Crunchit is just hitting the market.  I expect un-
bundled tools will be available soon based on links like this:

http://www.trailspace.com/gear/jetboil/crunchit/

Bill

On Dec 14, 1:53 pm, SFF  wrote:
> Well, I'm off work (thanks to vacation and Holidays) for the rest of
> the year and I'm going to take the opportunity to squeeze in as much
> riding as I can. Today the weather gods did their part (sunny 70) and
> I did mine. I took the Hillborne for a 4 hour ramble over mixed
> terrain with no particular goal in mind, no particular destination and
> no particular time limit - my favorite type of riding!
>
> One thing I did want to do was take my Primus camp stove and some tea
> along for a little trail-side tea break. Not sure who mentioned this
> idea (Rob?) but it stuck in my mind as something fun to do. I like to
> drink lots of hot green tea, so why not bring some along? I have a
> canister based stove system and over the past several years have
> accumulated several canisters that have just a little bit of fuel left
> in 'em - not enough fuel to risk taking on an overnight trip. So hey,
> what a great way to use them up! Yes, I know, then what do you do with
> the canister? You shouldn't put them in the trash and you can't
> recycle them (I don't think)...what to do?
>
> In yesterdays REI mailer (page 6), there was a new product called
> Jetboil Flash Crunchit Bundle. It is a whole stove system that comes
> with a "Crunchit" tool that "preps empty isobutane fuel cans for
> recycling". Thats all well and good but it costs $99!! Seems to me
> that REI, or any store that sells the fuel canisters, should take them
> back and use the Crunchit tool on them and recycle them for
> free...thats the trend, if you sell it - you should recycle it too.
> Does anyone know if REI will recycle fuel canisters? Has anyone used a
> Crunchit tool?
>
> I'm breaking in a new saddle - a VO model 5 sprung saddle. At this
> point, the saddle is winning the war. Man, this is a hard saddle. Two
> weeks and it is still brick hard. I'm missing my B17 (on the Betty Foy
> now...maybe forever).
>
> Learned a poem today too...just my length:
> This present moment
> that lives on
> to become
> long ago
> (Gary Snyder)
>
> Well thats my ramble for today. Happy riding!!
>
> Joel
> (All my molecules are happy molecules...)

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[RBW] Re: Riding posture - advice appreciated

[Bill M.]

This is where a consultation with a good bike fitter can make all of
the difference.

If you're soliciting opinions from random folks on the internet,
here's mine.  Yes, IMO your back is too arched.  It looks to me like
you're straining to reach the bars (holding them by the very ends of
the drops, elbows nearly locked) without allowing your hips to roll
forward.  Your butt is trying to sit bolt upright and that makes you
reach with your upper back and arms only.  You're probably not able to
engage your glutes well from that position, and are sacrificing some
strength and efficiency.   Been there.  Flattening your back will mean
rolling your hips forward.  I find I can't do that on a stock B17
without *significant* perineal discomfort.  The Brooks' I have left in
service have been cut out a la the Imperial to relieve some of that
pressure, otherwise I ride modern saddles with large cutouts.

Yes, adapting to a flatter back will require some different muscles to
tone up.  Yoga, pliates, etc. will probably help with that.  So will
practicing the position on the bike.  Your back doesn't need to be
dead flat, but a bit flatter would probably be good.  You don't need
to look like a modern racer, but you could do worse than to look back
at how bikes were fit a few decades ago:

http://www.linternaute.com/sport/dossier/cyclisme/tour-de-france/06/diapo-cols/images/anquetil.jpg

http://vinnieblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/fausto-coppi.jpg

Bill



On Dec 20, 6:41 am, Paul Yeoh  wrote:
> After looking at some photos taken by Early Grey of me riding his Sam
> with drop bars (example 
> here:)http://www.flickr.com/photos/25150...@n08/5260456237/
>
> I noticed that I am particularly "bent" in the lower back. Well, no
> surprise really, I've noticed this elsewhere in my life but cycling on
> drop bars makes it really pronounced. What are the implications of
> this crooked posture? How would one go about straightening the spine
> during cycling or anything else?
>
> On today's ride on my bike (Sam w moustache bars set about level with
> saddle height) I made an effort to keep my back straight and tilt the
> pelvis more. Not easy, and I had a mild back ache 30 minutes into the
> ride. What does that mean?
>
> On another note, on my way back down the mountain I had an absolute
> blast on the Sam. Smooth, fast and winding road on Marathon Extremes
> and tektro cantilevers - wow. To me, the way the Sam feels on fast
> descents is the highlight of this all-round fantastic bike. (the way
> downhills can be a highlight of the overall cycling experience, unless
> you're riding rough pavement on a racing frame with 23 mm slicks at
> 100 psi) The extremes probably slowed down overall speed a little but
> still rode very smooth and comfortable. Not buzzy at all.
>
> Any advice / help with improving my posture much appreciated!

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[RBW] Re: Frame pump?

[Bill M.]

I have old Zefal HPx's and new Road Morphs in service, and think both
work fine.  The Quicker mini pump had some good press, but it's a bit
of a pain to use IMO.  The Lezyne Pressure Drive is good for a mini,
but given the choice I'd rather use a full sized frame pump.  The
Master Blaster is a good pump, but heavy and dead ugly on the bike.
That may not matter to you, but I hate cluttering up a pretty bike.

Bill

On Dec 19, 3:52 pm, David Klatte  wrote:
> OK, this is probably a really dumb question. You can all feel free to
> make fun of my ignorance - I won't mind.
>
> My new Hilsen has one of those spiky braze-ons for a frame pump. A
> very long time ago I had an English three speed with a frame pump, but
> it had two of those spiky braze-ons and the pump fit between them.
>
> So how does it work with just one? What do I need to know to shop for
> a frame pump that will fit?
>
> Any suggestions for a nice rivish pump?
>
> Thanks,
>
> David

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar Bag on 60 cm Sam Hillborne

[Bill M.]

I do something similar with my Ostrich bag and VO headset-mount
decaleur.  I loop an old toe strap over the decaleur attachment bar,
and down through the loop at the back of the Nito M12.  This pulls the
decaleur down onto the supporting tubes and holds it very securely.
It goes on in maybe 15 seconds, and comes off even faster.  Without
the strap I did have the bag eject once.

Bill

On Dec 31, 2:21 pm, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> On Fri, 2010-12-31 at 14:09 -0800, Jim Cloud wrote:
> > I'm using the Velo Orange "Traditional Stem Mount Decaleur" (http://
> > store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/racks-decaleurs/decaleurs/
> > vo-traditional-stem-mount.html) with the largest model of the Berthoud
> > handlebar bag (GB2886) and a Mark's Rack as the support on the bottom
> > of the bag.  The bike is a 1996 model 65cm Rivendell Road Standard.
> > Here's a photo that shows the installation of the stem mount decaleur
> > -http://www.flickr.com/photos/37964...@n05/3634095108/in/set-721576197
>
> > Its worked perfectly in my experience and I haven't had any problems
> > with the installation.  There have been some recent threads on another
> > forum (i-BOB) concerning a friction fit not being sufficient to retain
> > a handlebar bag to the decaleur (these included a classic French
> > decaleur on a very pricey new Alex Singer Randonneur bike).  The
> > posters reported that their handlebar bags had been ejected from the
> > rack of their bike, and they had run over the bag narrowly avoiding a
> > nasty crash.
>
> > One possible solution to this problem was developed by Peter Weigle,
> > who certainly has plenty of experience building and riding these type
> > of bikes!  Here's a photo on Peter's Flickr photostream that shows the
> > technique:
> >http://www.flickr.com/photos/49353569(AT)N00/4971213280/in/photostream/
>
> > Note that the photo has note(s) that describe the solution.  In the
> > case of his application, he was able to dispense with a decaleur
> > entirely, although he doesn't suggest this on a larger model handlebar
> > bag such as the Berthoud GB2886.
>
> I solved the problem once for all with a small strap - perhaps one
> supplied with one of the handlebar bags for a strap-on mount - that I
> wrap over the decaleur bar on the back of the bag and one of the arms of
> the decaleur mounted to the bike.  Takes a second to attach, and it's
> absolutely rock solid, no way all all a bag can come off until the strap
> is unfastened.  

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[RBW] Re: Goals for 2011:

[Bill M.]

Cycling goals for this year:

Stay healthy enough to keep riding.  2008-10 included five eye
surgeries, passing a stone, a badly sprained ankle and a massive UTI
all of which knocked my off of the bike long enough to lose a bunch of
fitness.
Ride at least one full century (that would be my first since ~1993),
maybe a 200k if all goes well.
Get a bike dialed in for mixed-terrain riding, and get off of the
pavement some.
Get my 1984 Miyata 1000 back on the road as my regular commuter,
replacing the Kogswell I commuted on last year.
Build a new set of 650b wheels (Dyad rims and Phil hubs are in house,
waiting on spokes) and either find a 650b setup I'm fully happy with
or bail out of that size and go back to 622 and 559 only.

Onnellista uutta vuotta!

Bill Mennuti


On Dec 31, 4:56 am, Angus  wrote:
> Last Year there was a thread on Goals for 2010:
>
> Here is what I submitted:
>
> 1.  Fix my back (leg pain)...again.
> 2.  Ride either the Katy Trail or C&O Canal self supported.
> 3.  Keep riding to work at least once each week.
> 4.  Map a mixed terain ride starting from my front door.
> 5.  Do more S24Os.
> 6.  Continue searching out other East Texas riding areas (I'm still
> kinda new here).
> 7.  Ride the Mineral Wells Rail Trail, out and back, on the Quickbeam,
> fixed.
> 8.  Stop trying to make old French bike parts work...they don't.
> 9.  Support RBW and my LBS.
> 10.  Spend more time in the garage.
>
> I think I did a good job on 1, 3 (sort of), 8, 9 and 10.
>
> For 2011:
> 1.  Spend more time in the garage.
> 2.  Ride the Katy Trail.
> 3.  Three to four rides/week, once of them to work.
> 4.  Ride the Mineral Wells Rail Trail, out and back, on the Quickbeam,
> fixed.
> 5.  Map a mixed terrain (spelled correctly this time) ride starting
> from my front door.
> 6.  Continue searching out other East Texas riding areas.
> 7.  Continue to support RBW and my LBS.
> 8.  Finish that DIY LED light I started.
> 9.  Solve the Atlantis BB "clunk"
> 10.  Eliminate the Rambouillet "gear noise"
>
> Happy New Year!
>
> Angus

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[RBW] Re: Skewers?

[Bill M.]

The VO skewers look like they might be decent.  Classic design,
anyway, not an internal cam.

On Jan 8, 10:32 am, Marty  wrote:
> I need a pair of skewers for my next build - using Phil/Riv hubs.
> Looking for a nice clean design, and no plastic. Anyone have
> experience with Pitlock?
>
> Marty

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[RBW] Re: Saddle comparison - Brooks B17 vs. Berthoud Touring

[Bill M.]

Mike,

The S-A can indeed be mounted pretty far back, but the mfg warns
against it:

"Bent Frame Wire - A small number of saddles have been replaced in the
past two years due to frame wire bending during a ride. These first
happened exclusively with mountain bike riders doing extreme riding.
The majority of the frames that bent were using Thompson seat posts,
and others like them with the rail clamp centered over the top of the
seat post tube, and on seat posts with very short clamps. Many who
managed to bend rails also had their saddle set back as far as it will
go. The riders have been men and women of various weights on Standard
& Clydesdale models. The population of damaged saddles is so very
small we are at a loss to identify a cause. Engineers examine
offending saddles as they are returned. We replace these saddles with
the caveat that the rider use a seat post with longer section clamp
and more setback in the clamp. Anyone riding a saddle set back as far
as it will go on our rails is likely on a poorly fitting bike frame.
If your frame fits you appropriately, if the handlebars are properly
positioned (not too far away and too far down as is too common), and
if you have a well engineered seat post, your saddle will be
positioned in the middle of the rails. See the Seat Post section in
our Saddle & Handlebar Adjustment Procedure pamphlet that comes with
each saddle."

They aren't kidding.  Ask how I know...

Bill

On Jan 8, 7:06 pm, Mike S  wrote:
> Also, an issue in my saddle selection is fore-aft adjustment. I wanted
> to try the Selle An-Atomica because it seems it can mounted much
> further back than a B.17, which I need on the bike it is for that has
> a too-short top tube. I would rather have the problem solved by a
> saddle than another $150 lugged nitto wayback post. How do the rails
> on the Berthoud compare with a B.17 and S.A?
>
> On Jan 8, 9:40 pm, Mike S  wrote:
>
>
>
> > I just bought a Selle An-Atomica LD Clydesdale saddle, mainly because
> > it was on sale for $133 and I'm intrigued by the design and that it's
> > MUSA. I'm wondering if I may have made a mistake by choosing this
> > saddle over the Berthoud, which I considered but deemed not worthy of
> > the higher cost.
>
> > I've been riding a B.17 for about 3000 miles so far and it seems to be
> > in real good shape and I am very comfortable on a B.17, but I'm
> > wondering if there is something better. My primary concerns are a ride
> > that is of maximum comfort, and I also want outstanding durability.
> > Can any Selle An-Atomica users vouch for it's longevity, and can
> > anyone compare the two (Berthoud & S.A)?
>
> > Although the B.17 has served me well so far, I am a little worried
> > about the longevity with a post-acquisition saddle, and I'm also
> > generally always looking for gear improvements. Is the verdict that
> > the Gilles Berthoud is the best bang for the buck, despite the higher
> > cost?
>
> > Also, my riding is always with the handlebars a few centimeters higher
> > than the saddle.
>
> > On Jan 8, 2:27 pm, Lee  wrote:
>
> > > Hey Rene. I just got mine in. Here's a brief visual comparison of the
> > > saddle vis-a-vis a B-17 Champion Special:
>
> > >http://tinyurl.com/23eyb8o
>
> > > I've been slowly accumulating parts to upgrade my distance bike. The
> > > Aspin will replace a Selle An-Atomica, which will go to my saddle-less
> > > camping/utility bike. I had been switching my B-17S between my
> > > commuter (the Quickbeam) and the utility bike.
>
> > > Best,
> > > Lee
>
> > > On Jan 7, 3:47 pm, Rene Sterental  wrote:
>
> > > > Thanks for all the responses. I'm ordering one tonight to try it. I
> > > > like the B17 except for its nose up position to prevent sliding
> > > > forward. Always thought it should be flatter.
>
> > > > Seems like the Berthoud Touring might make me completely happy.
>
> > > > René
>
> > > > Sent from my iPhone 4
>
> > > > On Jan 7, 2011, at 1:54 PM, Seth Vidal  wrote:
>
> > > > > On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 2:50 PM, Kelly Sleeper  
> > > > > wrote:
>
> > > > >> Only reason I wouldn't try a 200 dollar saddle is if I can't return 
> > > > >> it.   It
> > > > >> looks to me to be a very well made comfortable saddle that has a 
> > > > >> benefit if
> > > > >> you buy thier saddle bags too.
>
> > > > >> I would also out of desperation try it if I didn't have comfortable 
> > > > >> saddles
> > > > >> now.
>
> > > > > wallbike.com
>
> > > > > 6month unconditional return guarantee.
>
> > > > > -sv
>
> > > > > --
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[RBW] Re: Saddle comparison - Brooks B17 vs. Berthoud Touring

[Bill M.]

No Bomba in my stable!

It didn't take anything extreme, just having the saddle too far back,
a seatpost clamp that didn't support the rails properly (an old
American Classic) and my 180 lb body were enough to bend the rails.
As I said, I bent them back and I still ride the saddle, but with a
different post and a less extreme position.

Jason,

If the mfg. says "don't do this" and you do anyway, don't you own some
responsibility for the results?

Bill

On Jan 9, 9:33 am, Philip Williamson 
wrote:
> On Jan 8, 9:49 pm, "Bill M."  wrote:
>
> > "Bent Frame Wire - A small number of saddles have been replaced in the
> > past two years due to frame wire bending during a ride. These first
> > happened exclusively with mountain bike riders doing extreme riding.
> ...
> > They aren't kidding.  Ask how I know...
>
> Hucking your Bombadil?
>
>  Philip
>
>  Philip Williamsonwww.biketinker.com

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[RBW] Re: Tandem Dreams

[Bill M.]

US buyers don't pay VAT, so $3200 - 3500 for a frameset at today's
exchange rate.

Steve Rex, my 'local' builder, gets $2995 for a TIGed tandem frame,
and $525 for a fork.  Fillet brazed goes for $3595 + fork.  I'm sure
the Rex is a stiffer bike and that Steve can offer more sizing
options, but if you've gotta have that lugged mojo the Mercian isn't
such a bad deal.

Bill

On Jan 13, 8:49 pm, Seth Vidal  wrote:
> On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 11:46 PM, cyclotourist  wrote:
> > That's the trick, isn't it.
>
> So - lets see figure a cool $4000+ for the frame/fork. Then add what?
> $600 or more for shipping?
>
> youch
>
> -sv

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[RBW] Re: Cog progression on Riv-sold 12-36 9-sp?

[Bill M.]

I regularly see short pitches that hit 12%, and a couple of roads our
club rides during the summer hit 15 - 17%.  On those rides I'm
generally riding my lightweight go-fast with a 34/29 low gear and no
more load than a couple of tubes and a Clif bar.  Anything much past
10% is a bit of a slog, but manageable because the steepest grades are
short.  I went to the 34 after trying to ride a road with 15% pitches
in a 39/29.  The 34 is just low enough to let me keep moving.

Climbing Jamison Creek Road (in the hills above Santa Cruz, CA - 1500
feet in 3 miles, and increasingly steeper towards the top) on my
heavier steel rando-ish bike with 650b Fatty Rumpkins and a large
front bag, the 24/32 low wasn't enough to keep me moving on the
steepest stretches.  On a fully loaded tourer, forget it!

Bill

On Jan 15, 1:48 pm, Ken Freeman  wrote:
> Are any of you regularly dealing with 12% grades?  How is it?
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jan 15, 2011 at 4:38 PM, Phil Bickford  wrote:
> > I agree with Steve - you can only ride so slow.  Balance and steering
> > quirkiness was my experience with riding a 24x34 (18.3") up steep
> > stuff at around 4.25 MPH.  Charlie: if you are concerned with your
> > knees, as we all should after the age of ~55, the ole "heel/toe" gear
> > might be safer and besides it let's you stretch out those muscles in
> > the back of your legs.
>
> > Say - Patrick - I'm surprised to see you going for the lower end
> > gearing, particularly after your career of fixed riding.  How's that
> > Fargo project going?  What chainrings are you planning on using?
>
> > I never ride with much of a load so I doubt my present gearing is
> > relevant but 50-40-24 with a 12-23 in the rear works well for me
> > around, about and up most places in Sonoma County.
>
> > YMMV -
> > Phil B
>
> > On Jan 15, 11:47 am, charlie  wrote:
> > >  If rested and on short rides I'd probably never use it but I carry a
> > > full "touring load" all the time and in spite of my efforts to reduce
> > > by riding, I only drop 20 pounds at the peak of the riding season.
> > > Grants recent writing clued me into the compensation eating that I
> > > know I do so I am trying some things different this year. Using lower
> > > overall gearing has preserved my knees. I wonder if a Deore rear
> > > derailleur will shift to the 36 tooth cog?
>
> > > On Jan 15, 5:09 am, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
>
> > > > On Sat, 2011-01-15 at 02:30 -0800, charlie wrote:
> > > > > I've been flirting with the idea also. Right now I am using a
> > 44x32x22
> > > > > and 7 speed 12-32 but wondered if a really low, low might be handy.
>
> > > > Last time I looked, a 22 front 32 rear already gave a really low low
> > > > (18.6").  Going to a 36T would bring that down to 16".
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
> > .
> > For more options, visit this group at
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>
> --
> Ken Freeman
> Ann Arbor, MI USA

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[RBW] Re: Shoes

[Bill M.]

No.  No, we don't.  I have to wear steel-toed shoes at work, and have
trouble finding them to fit my size 43 narrow feet.  The Vittorias
look perfect to me.  Too bad I won't need new cycling shoes for a few
years, there are some nice ones out there these days.  Like these:

http://www.dromarti.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10_29_12&products_id=17

Guglielmo (Bill) Mennuti

On Jan 18, 4:02 pm, Tim McNamara  wrote:
> On Jan 18, 2011, at 2:17 PM, Michael_S wrote:
>
> > It's amazing that these types of shoes  
> > http://www.vittoria1976.it/1976series_en.html
>
> > are coming back in style.
>
> To bad none of them are ever made big enough.  Don't Italians ever have size 
> 48-50 feet?

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[RBW] Re: tweed knit sweaters are coming back!

[Bill M.]

Eric,

At least around my family, "starving Italian" is an oxymoron.  :)  My
father has been known to say that his epitaph should be "He never
missed a meal".

Bill Mennuti

On Jan 19, 7:26 am, EricP  wrote:
> Also am hoping they actually do arrive.  Will order at least one,
> mebbe two.  With a huge caveat - depends on the actual sizing of the
> item.  Hopefully XL will be made.  And hopefully it isn't "starving
> Italian" XL.
>
> Used to wear wool/tweed sweaters back in college.  Would like to do so
> again, if for no other reason to honor the memory of a friend.
>
> Hopefully, the sizing won't be too bad.  While I love the cowboy
> shirts, they are only good for me as an over-shirt with rolled up
> sleeves.  Both the arms and side cuts are too short.  (But then again,
> if I were to get back to losing weight, it might not be as much an
> issue.)
>
> Eric Platt
> St. Paul, MN
>
> On Jan 18, 11:10 pm, Beth H  wrote:
>
>
>
> > My in-laws gifted me with a WW vest when they were still available. I
> > wear the crap out of it. The neck is great when I don't feel like
> > taking along a scarf, and folds down out of the way when I'm not so
> > cold. It has holes in it and the corner of the rear pocket sags a
> > little lopsidedly. I will probably wear it until it shreds.
>
> > I got a cardigan shortly after it came out. Two days after it arrived,
> > my sister's cat (who has a thing for wool -- anyone ever heard of this
> > in cats?) ATE a 2-inch chunk from the cuff. I repaired it badly using
> > wool yarn and a small-diameter crochet hook (I don't know how to knit
> > and probably couldn't have gotten it that fine anyhow). It looks funky
> > but the sweater is my daily too-cold-in-the-morning garment while I
> > sip coffee and read the news. After work, I slip it on again in the
> > evening. Sort of like Mister Rogers.
>
> > I've got two and I'm all set; but if you have not owned WW tweedies
> > before and can afford one now, buy one when they come back. You'll
> > like it.
>
> > Meanwhile, I am waiting for the return of the Wooly Warm jersey (with
> > the button placket!) and heavier-weight trainer. A girl can dream.
> > Beth

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[RBW] Re: European Hillborne Tour

[Bill M.]

http://www.phred.org/mailman/listinfo/touring


On Jan 20, 8:57 am, Adam  wrote:
> Greetings All,
>
> I am planning a European tour for about a month this summer on my
> Hillborne.  I have quite a few questions and wonder if anyone here
> knows of a more on-topic list serve to direct my questions towards.
>
> Cheers,
> Adam

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[RBW] Re: OT: Redirect Notice on Google Groups

[Bill M.]

I think this is a security 'feature'.  It prevents you following a
tiny url to a potentially malicious web page without your knowledge.
Not something we have had to worry about here so far, but other groups
attract different sorts of folks.

Bill

On Jan 20, 8:30 pm, rob markwardt  wrote:
> Hi,
>      Sorry for the off topic post...I'll post a pic of my Bleriot with
> it's newly arrived fenders as soon as I get them installed...should be
> on my 2012.
>     In the past few days, when clicking on a link in a message (only
> in Google groups), I get sent to a "redirect notice" page with
> following message:   The previous page is sending you to "wherever the
> link is"and If you do not want to visit that page, you can "go
> back to wherever you came from".  Of course I click on the "where I
> want to go" link (umm, I clicked on  the freeking link because I DO
> want to go there) and it takes me there, but this is taking valuable
> seconds away from me that could be spent looking at bikes, bike parts,
> and pictures of people riding bikes!
>    Am I the only one getting these?  Is google sucking data from my
> computer...boring...most of the time..? Can I get rid of it?
>
> Thank you.
> Rob "I'll now get back to reading that "Micheneresque" post" Markwardt

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[RBW] Re: Soma New Express 650Bs are great.

[Bill M.]

When I was riding the Paris-Motos last fall I don't think I completed
a single ride of 30 miles or more without a flat, sometimes more than
one.  I'll try them again in the spring and hope for fewer goatheads
on the roads.  I've had way fewer flats on skinnier tires.  My guess
is the wider tires sweep a wider section of road and find more
hazards.

Bill

On Jan 24, 8:30 am, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> On Mon, 2011-01-24 at 07:09 -0800, William wrote:
>
> > I've got about 1000k on these tires and have had zero flats, after
> > getting 2 glass flats in Pari-Motos in about 100k.  I plan on using
> > the Pari-Motos a lot more in the summer when glass isn't invisible on
> > wet roads.
>
> While I don't doubt that the Soma Express are more puncture resistant
> than the Pari Motos (simply because they have a thicker tread) there's
> just too much random variation to use this anecdote for any kind of
> prediction.  You could simply have been unlucky with the Pari Motos.

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[RBW] Re: When is a tire too big?

[Bill M.]

ON the other end of the spectrum, where I live there are essentially
no UNpaved roads.  I'm surrounded by private famland with a good
network of paved roads in between farms.  It's over an hour's drive to
get to any significant unpaved roads.  It's also a very long way to
anywhere I'd want to camp, so S24O's from home are out.  Most of my
riding is done with the local bike club on an unloaded 'racing' bike
and nominal 25 mm tires (the current set measure about 26 mm).
Anything else just adds weight.  The pavement we ride is rarely bad
enough for comfort to be an issue.  I use nominal 28's on my Riv Road,
which is currently set up with a fixed gear, but those also measure
about 26 mm.

I commuted on 38 - 40 mm 650b tires last year and had a distressing
number of flats, more than I had in many more miles of riding on
skinnier tires on the same roads.  This year I'm going back to 700c
for commuting, running 35-622 Vittoria Randonneur Pro's that measure
around 34 mm on my rims.  The extra width didn't give me significantly
more comfort on pavement, but I suspect that the wider contact patch
picked up more thorns, wires, glass and such.  I'll still ride the
650's some this year, more for easy solo rides and the rare out-of-
town trips where I might get off the tarmac or need to carry extra
supplies.

I've owned 50-559 Marathon Supremes, and didn't find them to be all
that wonderful on pavement.  On a loaded tourer I might have felt
differently.

Bill

On Jan 27, 8:30 pm, Bob  wrote:
> Much is said about Rivs taking big tires, those advanced, low rolling
> resistance, low pressure tires that absorb shocks, stop flats, survive
> long tours across the tundra, and eliminate potentially hazardous
> resonances in areas of lipid storage.  But when do you get too much of
> a good thing and your king of the road turns into a beach cruiser?
> Aside from Riv gatherings where riders compare tire widths, when is
> bigger not better?

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[RBW] Re: Heron Road

[Bill M.]

Wow.  Just... wow.  Nice find.

On Jan 30, 11:21 pm, rcnute  wrote:
> When we met I told him he'd better pull the ad before his phone
> started ringing off the hook with calls from bike weirdos throughout
> the nation.
>
> I tend to catch and release, so you can be first in line if it ever
> needs a new home.
>
> Ryan
>
> On Jan 30, 11:11 pm, Brian Hanson  wrote:
>
>
>
> > If it's this:http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/2188933678.htmlandyou
> > got it for that, you are one happy guy!
>
> > Brian - dejected in Seattle
>
> > On Sun, Jan 30, 2011 at 11:01 PM, rcnute  wrote:
> > > Just found my best Craigslist score ever.  Photos tomorrow.
>
> > > Ryan
>
> > > --
> > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> > > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
> > > .
> > > For more options, visit this group at
> > >http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell All-Rounder - 54 cm

[Bill M.]

I wonder if the pinstriping is original?  Grant typically doesn't like
lines lugs, and I don't remember that as an option back when the AR
was current.

Bill

On Feb 1, 6:25 am, karpowicz  wrote:
> http://hartford.craigslist.org/bik/2191278201.html
>
> No interest in this sale.  Just FYI

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[RBW] Re: Pasela sidewall failure: Damage or manufacturing defect?

[Bill M.]

I'm not a Pasela user, but have had a similar bulge in a Panaracer-
made GB Cypress.  I

Bill

On Feb 2, 9:42 pm, Earl Grey  wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I bought a pair of 35x700C non-TG Paselas in June from Harris Cyclery,
> and put them on my secondary bike for a couple of rides, and then
> replaced them with some 40mm tires I bought later. Recently I put them
> on my Sam for a 100km mixed surface ride since the 40s don't fit under
> the Sam's fenders, and I wanted something wider than the Jack Browns I
> usually run on the Sam. When I mounted the Paselas, I noticed that a
> few of the thin flaps of rubber were still attached to the centerline
> of the front tire, indicating marginal use.
>
> The Paselas were great on the ride, but halfway through the ride I
> noticed a bulge in the sidewall:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/25150892@N08/5412055821/
>
> There are really 2 parallel bulges, one of which has progressed to
> frayed strands, and both line up with a slight wiggle in the line of
> the black rubber compound, potentially indicating (?) that these
> bulges were already there when the black tread was applied to the
> tire. The other photos show the condition of the tread to demonstrate
> degree of tire usage.
>
> Has anyone had similar experiences with Paselas? Can you tell me
> whether you think this is a defect or caused by damage (I was riding
> dirt roads, but with no rocks). I bought two Paselas, one of which has
> a more subtle, smaller decal, while the other has a larger logo with
> jaggy edges. Was there a recent batch that had sidewall issues? (The
> one with the problem is the one with the more subtle, presumably older
> logo).
>
> Thanks for any help,
>
> Gernot

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[RBW] Re: Tech Feature: The Work Of Wheel Energy | Cyclingnews.com

[Bill M.]

They conclude that 25's will roll faster than 23's, 'on average', at a
barely perceptible level.  Nothing is specifically said about tires
wider than that (though it's implied), or whether there's an optimum
width.  Or at what width and what speed aerodynamics start to matter
as much as rolling resistance.  The answer may well be different for
recreational riders, randonneurs and folks riding at racing speeds.

They also say that 29'ers roll faster than 26'ers, so presumably 700c
wheels would have an advantage over 650b.  I would tend to believe
that based on owning several sets of  various widths in each size.

Another finding is that latex tubes are up to 10% faster than butyl,
in agreement with many riders' experience but the exact opposite
result of that reported in VBQ's tire test.  Whose tests do we trust
when some agree and some don't?

There are still lots of questions to be answered.  It's nice to see
some research being done.

Bill


On Feb 3, 10:21 am, Eric Norris  wrote:
> Saw this on the Randon list and thought it would be of interest here.  Basic 
> conclusion is that wider tires roll faster than narrow tires, based on 
> extensive lab testing.
>
> http://www.cyclingnews.com/features/tech-feature-the-work-of-wheel-en...
>
> --Eric Norriswww.campyonly.com
> campyonlyguy.blogspot.com

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[RBW] FS/FT - Tan Acorn M/L Saddle bag

[Bill M.]

Last week I saw an Acorn M/L saddlebag up for auction, and bought it
on impulse.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rt=nc&nma=true&item=130482373658&si=LkILWIZ3bfQbh%252FXpiYCnPBHdlW4%253D&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT

It arrived yesterday and is as advertised new and apparently has never
been mounted to a bike. A pair of Acorn's lashing straps are
included.  It's a very nicely made, high quality bag, but somehow I'm
not really warming up to it.  It's either a little big or a little
small for the uses I had intended for it.  Also note that unlike the
very latest version this one lacks the two side pockets.

So, while it's still pristine, I'm offering it up to the group for the
same deal I paid for it, $95 shipped within the lower 48.  Or, I'm
open to trade for an interesting bag that's just a bit bigger (Barley,
Pendle, Nigel Country Bag, ???) +/- $ depending on relative values.  I
already have a Nelson Longflap and have a Camper on the way so I don't
need anything that big.

The auction photos are accurate, but I can forward my own high-res
pictures to interested parties.  Please contact me off-list if you're
interested.

Thanks,

Bill Mennuti

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[RBW] Re: Computers? No computers?

[Bill M.]

I used computers for a few years, then not for a few.  When I bought a
new go-fast two years ago, I went all in and bought a Sigma Rox 9 to
go with it.  It doesn't have GPS built in, but does have about
everything else - speed/time/distance, cadence, heart rate and
altitude, plus data logging and a USB connection to the PC.  When
logging it takes a 'snapshot' of speed, distance, altitude and heart
rate every 5 - 20 seconds.  The data can be downloaded to the computer
to generate route profiles and track total mileage, climbing, calories
burned, etc.  Not at all Riv-approved, but I do like having the HRM
data and the profiles of climbs.  Last year I bought a second mount,
so I can swap it between two bikes.  It has one big advantage over
GPS's - the battery life is well over a year, compared to a few hours
for a Garmin.

there are still a few bikes in the garage that are computer-less,
including my Riv Road, and I won't support two computers so they will
stay that way.  I'm not compulsive about tracking every ride, and I
can still estimate my speed pretty well by eye and feel.  I like
having the computer on hard, hilly rides, I don't miss it on easy
rambles.

To everything there is a reason, and a time to every purpose under
Heaven.
A time to ride flats, a time to ride hills
A time to ride fast, a time to ride slow
A time to draft another man's wheel
A time to refrain from drafting...

(Apologies to Ecclesiastes and the Byrds)

Bill



On Feb 15, 7:44 am, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> How many of y'all have computers on your bikes? The Avocet 35 on my
> gofast failed after many years and I am very tempted not to replace
> it. But weaning myself from the numbers is surprisingly hard,
> particularly mileage numbers.
>
> What do y'all do? Do you use computers? Just a watch to time yourself?
> Just ride and say the heck with it?
>
> Note: I'll still like going fast; I'm just not the rambling type. But
> I can ride hard even without the computer.
>
> --
> Patrick Moore
> Albuquerque, NM
> For professional resumes, contact
> Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Re: Best Methods for Shellac Application

[Bill M.]

You should be able to remove the excess with denatured alcohol and try
again.  Try using a little more of the alcohol to thin the shellac a
bit.  IMO, a good shellac job will greatly lengthen the life of the
tape.

I've done a set of bars with clear water-based polyurethane varnish
instead of shellac.  They held up extremely well.  The varnish is
truly clear, it didn't change the color of the tape at all, it just
added a little sihne.  It also seemed more impervious to water and
dirt than shellac.  Water based poly is low odor and non-toxic, so
it's nicer to work with than shellac or oil-based varnish.  It's low
viscosity and low build, so several coats are needed but it's easy to
apply with a cheap foam brush and cleans up with soap and water.  The
downside is it's maybe too permanent.  I posted about this years ago
on the old BOB list, but AFAIK nobody else ever tried it.

Bill

On Sep 25, 6:18 am, Mike Shaljian  wrote:
> I recently shellacked some dark blue Japanese cloth tape, and the end
> result was pretty unsatisfactory. My guess is I put it on way too
> thick, and when it was dry it had this thick, hideous amber crust all
> on the surface. It comes off if you rub at it real good, but it looks
> nothing else some of the beautiful results I've seen on cotton tape
> with Zinser Amber Shellac.
>
> Is the secret applying it very lightly in several coats, and giving
> ample time to dry between each coat? I really hate to waste anymore of
> that fine Japanese tape, so any tips would be appreciated. I'm also
> wondering if it's even worth shellacking at all, I mean does it really
> add to looks/durability enough to bother? All opinions appreciated,
> thanks.
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[RBW] Re: Brown Brake Hoods - Any tips?

[Bill M.]

Ergo levers need a very specific hood with a slot for the thumb
button.  Campy doesn't make brown hoods.  I think the Hudz or living
with campy black might be your only options.


On Sep 26, 6:20 pm, Erik  wrote:
> I'm in the process of building a 650b Boulder Bicycle, and I'm having
> a tough time finding a brown brake hood.  The brown "Hudz" hood is too
> gummy and translucent, as I don't want the internal workings to show
> through.  Can anyone recommend where I can find a basic tan or brown
> brake hood?  For what it is worth, I am building the bike with Campy
> Ergo Brifters (if this impacts sizing).
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[RBW] Re: Selle Anatomica

[Bill M.]

I have various Brooks saddles (B17, B15, Flyer, B66), with the most
miles on the B17.  As the B17 aged it developed a ridge down the
middle, which is exactly what I don't need and was very
uncomfortable.  I have since soaked and re-shaped the B17, and it's
rideable again, but only as long as I keep a fairly upright
position.

I slotted the Flyer myself, which helped a lot with the perineal
pressure.  Slotting the un-laminated leather has allowed some sag, so
it's not clear whether it would hold up to heavy use.  It's on a bike
I don't ride often.  The B66 is idle right now, I don't have a bike
set up with the bolt-upright position that works with a B66.

I also have an SA Titanico in the fleet. It does relieve some of the
pressure, and feels great when I first sit on it, but after 30 miles
or so I don't find my sit bones as comfortable on it as I do on a
Brooks.  Mine stretched some, but has stabilized with maybe 1/3 of the
bolt left to take up.   You have to accept that it won't be flat like
a Brooks, you're supposed to sit in it like a hammock, which is a very
different feeling.  As long as you're not sitting on the seat post
clamp it hasn't stretched out too much.

I have a Cardiff Gull, too, which is too narrow but I like the
laminated leather on it.  I

f I try another leather saddle it will probably be an Imperial, though
I might try cutting out a Cardiff Mercia.

On a completely opposite track, my go-fast has a Specialized Alias
racing saddle.  It's far from cushy but it's well shaped and I don't
have any saddle discomfort at all after a fast 40 - 50 mile club ride.
I wouldn't choose one for cruising along on, though, it only works in
go-fast mode.

Bill

On Sep 26, 8:21 pm, bradgantt  wrote:
> Hello Bunchers,
>
> I am really close to taking delivery on my Custom Riv. and am now
> trying to decide on an appropriate saddle. I am 6' 3" 195 lbs. and the
> bike will be a 700c with clearance for 42s, drop bars, etc. I have a
> Brooks B-17 that has seen limited use, which I am considering having
> slotted (slotted saddles are much more comfortable for me) by Selle
> Anatomica. My other thought was to get a Titanico. I noticed that Riv
> no longer carries Selle Anatomica saddles. Does anybody know why? Has
> anyone here had their Brooks slotted? I'm all ears, thanks!
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[RBW] Re: Heavy good bike

[Bill M.]

On Sep 28, 7:35 pm, charlie  wrote:
> So this means you can go 2-5 miles further in an hour of cycling ?  ;)

Completely inconsequential if you're riding alone.  Maybe less so if
the group you're riding with is now 2 - 5 miles ahead.  That makes
conversation difficult and tries their patience at regroup points.

Bill
(who alternates between 18 pound, 22 pound and 26 pound bikes
depending on terrain and company)
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[RBW] Re: things I noticed after a 2 month biking hiatus

[Bill M.]

You may want to hold off on selling the Bianchi for a while.  I find
that what feels uncomfortable when I haven't been riding or am out of
shape becomes comfortable again once my fitness improves.

Bill

On Oct 6, 8:58 am, Seth Vidal  wrote:
> I had surgery about a month ago and I had almost 4 weeks before that I
> could not bike b/c of the problem prompting the surgery. Many of y'all
> were helpful in your suggestions of things I should do while I could
> not ride a bike. My doctor has said I'm completely good to go, I can
> even lift heavy objects again.  (yay?)
>
> In the last couple of months I have:
>
> 1. learned to knit -  working, slowly, on a sweater in my spare time now.
>
> 2. learned how to build a wheel - fine it was only a front wheel, but
> it looks good and it wasn't that hard, really. Truing was, umm,
> harder.
>
> 3. read half of two wheels north - got distracted by other reading
> before finishing - but it's back on top of the pile
>
> 4. cleaned all the bikes and sold all the unloved/unused bike stuff at a swap.
>
> 5. readjusted the fender line on the atlantis and changed out the
> tires. I also installed the davinci splitters properly and I've
> swapped the bars back-and-forth from noodles to albatrosses a number
> of times. It's nice being able to swap out your bars in about 10
> minutes and not have to adjust all the cabling. (I might have to use
> the birthday gift certs I got to riv for some other handlebars to play
> with.)
>
> All in all much progress.
>
> In the last few days since I've been able to ride I've noticed:
>
> 1. I rode the castro valley and the atlantis side by side and the
> bianchi is distinctly uncomfortable compared to the atlantis. Tires on
> both are within 3mm of each but the bianchi just doesn't feel right. I
> think it is going to find a new home where someone else can love it.
> It's a bit daunting just how much more comfortable I am on the
> atlantis.
>
> 2. My S.O. rode the atlantis while I was unable to and she liked it, a
> bunch, maybe a bit too much.
>
> 3. I bought a pair of musa shorts back in may or so - b/c they have an
> elastic waistband they don't make the surgery scar hurt - so I've been
> more or less living in them. They're handy for everything. :)
>
> 4. I was glad to have this mailing list  and cyclofiend's current
> classics site around while I was healing up.
>
> thanks,
> -sv
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[RBW] Re: 1st generation Rivendell Mountain Bike and Colorado 2010 summer rendevous

[Bill M.]

I bought the prototype M/E frame set used for the catalog picture from
Riv during one of their 'we need cash now' sales, and owned it until
January of this year when I sold it to another list member.  I don't
recall seeing him post lately, maybe he'll see this thread and chime
in.

Here's a pic of the bike taken not long before it left for Nebraska:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/15750...@n04/4019037057/

Bill



On Oct 16, 8:24 am, Kip Otteson  wrote:
> Does anyone have a first generation Rivendell Mountain Bike?  I'm
> talking about the bike in the 1994 catalogue that had drop bars.  That
> bike always excited me and I have been looking for someone who
> actually has one.  I've never seen a picture on the web or anywhere
> else besides that catalogue.
>
> Oh, and I was wondering if anyone is interested in planning a July
> rendevous in South Park, Colorado.  I live in the S24O capital of the
> United States and am looking for interested folks that would like to
> do some trail riding and camping.  I have 44 acres and a few houses
> right next to national forest and the Colorado Trail by Kenosha Pass
> and am always able to put people up in July.  (Currently in Thailand
> for the school year.)
>
> It seems like most of the folks in this group are in California.  I
> think I'm the only guy without full suspension in Colorado sometimes.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Kip Otteson
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[RBW] Re: Clipless Pedals

[Bill M.]

I've never had KEO's, but owned older Looks for a while.  I never
looked back once I tried the Speedplay X lollipops.  The free float is
far kinder to my knees.  Besides the float, the X's spin nicely, hold
up well and clip in and release easily without ever releasing
prematurely (I hate it when that happens!).  Neither Looks nor
Speedplays are friendly for walking more than a few steps, though,
which confines them to go-fast duty only IMO.  They live on my
dedicated club sport bike.

I have a set of Speedplay Frogs that move between a couple of other
bikes.  They're a nice compromise of free float and walkability.

My commuter has Velo Orange touring pedals with plastic clips.  I have
no problem with that setup for the flat twelve miles of my commute,
but I prefer to be clipped in for longer, hillier rides.

Bill

On Oct 14, 6:17 am, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> Violently yanking this thread in a direction more interesting to Moi, I ask
> *those of you who have used both (the rest of ya keep silent):
>
> Which do you like better, Look Keos or Speedplay X2s, and why? Be thorough
> and complete in your reply. Extra credit for good penmanship.
>
> (I'll let those of you who have actually used other Looks and other X pedals
> chime in, too. No comments from the peanut gallery, please.)
>
> Patrick Moore, who has used Graftons (both models) and Stratics, and you
> haven't.
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[RBW] Re: Schwalbe tire issues

[Bill M.]

FWIW, I have two sets of 650b Synergy's in service and EVERY tire I've
mounted on them has fit very loosely.  I have to take great care to
seat the beads evenly, and some tires (CdlV) always want to sit a bit
off center.  IMO the Synergies run a bit on the small side.  I never
need tools to mount or dismount tires from them.  No blow-offs yet,
but I wouldn't run very high pressures on any of them.

Bill


On Oct 24, 2:07 pm, Dave Minyard  wrote:
> I have been running Col De La Vies on my Saluki since I received it in
> late March 2008, they were getting pretty worn so I decided to try the
> Schwalbe Marathon 650b as I had used the same tire in 20 inch size on
> the Bike Friday I used to have and were very happy with them. The
> problem I have run into is this... I installed the new tires on Wed.
> but since then on 2 different rides I have had them blow out. The last
> time today it blew the tire off of the rim and put a long split in the
> tube. I haven't run them at full 85psi , but had them at around 80psi.
> I'm thinking that something about my rim  (Velocity Synergy 32h) and
> tire combination isn't likeing that much pressure. Today after it blew
> and I installed my spare I only aired it up to about 60psi and it
> seemed fine to get me home.
>
> The tires seem to fit very loose on the rim, I can completely change
> tire and tube with no tools.
>
> I didn't have anything like this happen at all with the CDLV's. I
> weigh 178 and tend to carry alot on my bike...it has a Tubus Cargo
> rack and Ortlieb panniers that I leave on it pretty much all the
> time.
>
> Has any one on this list had any issues with them?
>
> I am going to call RBWHQ on Monday to see what they think about it.
>
> Thanks,
> Dave Minyard
> Santa Maria, Ca
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[RBW] Re: Why have American Classic seatposts been overlooked by the RBW and BOBish crowd?

[Bill M.]

My Riv Road wore an AC for many years.  It has a Campy now, the AC has
moved on to another bike.  Never had a problem with it, and it's as
light as a carbon post.  I can see how the clamp could be a problem
with some saddles, as the top clamp is not full length.  It's barely
wide enough to hold the clamp bolt.  Selle Anatomica specifically
prohibits that type of clamp for their saddles.  Didn't seem to hurt
my B17 any, though.

Bill

On Oct 28, 3:08 pm, Greg M  wrote:
> I have a question. In my book the American Classic seatposts were some
> of the finest bits of kit that were available for your bike.  They
> have elegant lines and are amongst the most simple posts ever
> manufactured. They look beautiful with a Brooks saddle, the black top
> clamp contrasting nicely with either the silver or copper rails.
>
> Now that the road fantasy racer crowd, you know the ones that can't
> really reach their drops, spend 99% of the time on the hoods, and are
> convinced that their bike fits, has gone to carbon seatposts on their
> vintage and classic bikes, something interesting has happened.
>
> You can find a world class American Classic seatpost for the price of
> a generic boat anchor post.
>
> I've been following these for awhile on bike forums, on Craigslist,
> and on eBay.
>
> You can pick up a lightweight and classic looking alloy American
> Classic post in a variety of sizes (27.2 of course) for next to
> nothing. Even funnier is that you can get the titanium American
> Classic posts for almost nothing more than next to nothing.
>
> I picked up a titanium American Classic at Veloswap for $5, I already
> had an aluminum one that was smartly spec'd on my 'country' touring
> bike. I don't "need" the lighter titanium post, but the gleam and
> sheen of ti post reminds me of the 80s when everything was hand
> polished and many cyclists in Colorado had a 'Durango Diamond'
> titanium stem.
>
> These are perfect for a Riv because they were classic sized, that is
> meant for bikes that were properly fit, with a "handful of post."
>
> I can't think of a cheaper way to upgrade your bike with a world class
> component, considering what these go for. Sure Nitto seatposts are
> nice, but so is an American Classic.
>
> They are...well...classic.
>
> You really can't go wrong. Its funny they've gone from being the kit
> that the racer crowd spec'd to now they're just completely Riv-ish.
> Check 'em out, elegant, simple, beautiful posts.
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[RBW] Re: an imitation or just a coincidence?

[Bill M.]

The three versions of the Sam Houston seem to cover the same territory
as the Atlantis/Hillborne, Rambouillet and Legolas.  The LaSalle
Randonneur has the same origins as a VO, Tournesol or Boulder
randonneuse, and the city bikes are rooted in very traditional
designs.  It's pretty hard to find a truly original design for a steel
bike frame, so I can't blame the builder for working in styles for
which there is an established demand.  These all look pretty nice to
me, but I'd be aware that this is a very new builder, and would have
to take the leap of faith that his bikes are as fully realized as
those coming from more experienced designers.  I hope he can keep
building long enough to get that experience!

Bill

On Nov 2, 12:32 pm, "Dave @ Rivendell"  wrote:
> don't know what to think about this one. Introducing The Sam Houston
> bike from Violet Crown Cycles:
>
> http://www.violetcrowncycles.com/samhouston.php
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[RBW] Re: Sacramento Tweed Ride

[Bill M.]

I just got my set uploaded:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/15750...@n04/sets/72157622772411124/

Glad you could arrange some nice weather, Rick!  Good people, too.  My
Riv stayed home for this one in favor of my Miyata 1000, partly
because the Miyata had the Carradice bag on it so I could carry a lock
and such.  Maybe next time the Riv will come out and play.  I saw one
Curt-built Riv All-Rounder, two Quickbeams and a Ressurectio on the
ride, along with three Pashleys, two B'stones, a Jorg & Olif Dutch
city bike, an ordinary, and a wide variety of other bikes old and new,
fixed and multi-geared.  A good time was had by all!

Bill

On Nov 9, 9:57 am, Rick  wrote:
> Eric, thanks so much for coming:
>
> The pictures are wonderful--have you put them into our flickr group
> yet?  http://www.flickr.com/groups/sactotweed/
>
> Sorry about the tall, bald guy droning on in the video--we'll have to
> do something about that in the future! Lol!
>
> Take care, and I'm really looking forward to our converting my QB to a
> 3-speed!
>
> Rick
>
> On Nov 9, 9:41 am, Eric Norris  wrote:
>
>
>
> > I estimated about 100 riders. They were hoping for 12!
>
> > --Eric Norris
> > Sent via iPhone
>
> > On Nov 9, 2009, at 9:17 AM, doug peterson  wrote:
>
> > > Looks like a lot of fun.  Hard to tell how many in the crowd - any
> > > guess on numbers?
>
> > > dougP
>
> > > On Nov 8, 1:56 pm, Eric Norris  wrote:
> > >> Wow--it was like an explosion of tweed and wool!  Quite a few
> > >> Rivendells and Riv-ish bikes and people--a ripping good time!
>
> > >> Photos:  
> > >> http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176...@n03/sets/72157622762874036/
>
> > >> The Movie:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=keeODqpVlCI
>
> > >> --Eric
> > >> campyonly...@me.comwww.campyonly.comwww.wheelsnorth.org
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[RBW] Re: Sacramento Tweed Ride

[Bill M.]

Nice!

There are over 300 pics in the Flickr pool so far, and not one of me
so far.  Guess I'm not that photogenic!

Bill

On Nov 10, 11:49 am, Rick  wrote:
> Loved yours pics, Bill: Make sure to check out the new post on the
> blog today; someone wrote a great letter to us, and it made the whole
> thing worth it.
>
> Rick
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[RBW] Re: If Filson and Berthoud had a baby....

[Bill M.]

Google sez:
295 Euros = 442.08700 U.S. dollars
Bill sez:
"Yowza!"

On Nov 11, 1:50 pm, Surf  wrote:
> William...This is 
> nice!http://www.brooksengland.com/en/News_Page.aspx?id=090929.065518.50
>
> SurF
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[RBW] Re: Tires for Bombadil...

[Bill M.]

I have Fatty Rumpkins on one bike.  I've not ridden them off-road, but
have several hundred road miles on them.  They don't roll too badly,
and have enough tread for at least light off-road exploring.  I'm sure
pure knobbies would be better for serious off-roading, but worse on
the road.  They're narrower than the Big Apples but run about half the
price, and are much lighter, so I think they'd make a good starter
tire while you ponder your options.

Bill

On Nov 10, 8:21 pm, Rene Sterental  wrote:
> As the different components for my new Bombadil are finally falling in
> place, the question still remains about which tires should go with it. I've
> narrowed down the wheelset, the brakes, and will make a final decision
> regarding the bars I'll try...
>
> Which tires should I get? I'll be riding in the San Francisco Bay Area.
> - A 29er real mountain bike tire? On my Titus FTM I am currently running a
> Specialized Eskar 2.3 Control front and a Captain 2.0 Control rear and like
> them a lot. Should I go for the same versions in 29" or are there any better
> recommendations?
> - A multi purpose tire that will allow me to be comfortable on the road and
> feel safe on the trails as well? I've no idea where to even start...
>
> My Bombadil will be size 60, so according to the Rivendell specs, I can go
> as big as 2.3 tires.
>
> Thank you all!
>
> René
> orthie...@yahoo.com
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