[RBW] Re: Caliper brake recommendations for 35mm tires

[Ryan]

I have 32mm Stampede Pass tires on my Rivendell Road. I realize they're not 
35mm. I also have Grand Cru brakes and TRP road levers with the additional 
QR button, for additional slack on the inside of the brake hoods. Maybe 
that combo could work? Don't have a wheelset with 35 mm tires ready to hand 
to tell you for sure, however, unfortunately, but maybe someone else on the 
list has this brake/lever combo AND >= 35 mm tires and could tell you for 
sure. One reviewer on Orange Velo site  mentions that the Grand Cru  brakes 
on their own don't release enough to mount a wheel with a 35mm tire...but 
in combo with the TRP levers, they just might clear your 35mm tire. 
Functionally and aesthetically they are a nice combo.

On Friday, January 17, 2025 at 4:00:39 PM UTC-6 iamkeith wrote:

> I hope I have these model numbers correct and not transposed, but the 
> Tektro R539 was originally designed by and for Rivendell, as the first 
> "Silver" branded brake.  It was designed specifically for this purpose - as 
> an upgrade for Rambouillets and Romuli and Redwoods, etc, which were 
> designed to fit 33-37 tires, at at time when medium-reach brakes were few 
> and far between.   Tektro eventually started selling them to anybody.  I'm 
> not sure why Rivendell doesn't still carry them, but does still carry the 
> even-longer-reach R559.  At any rate, they're still available but it might 
> take some looking to find some in a proper silver finish.  I don't think 
> I'd ever rave about any caliper brake, but have them on my Ram and they are 
> fine and do what you are looking for.
>
> On Friday, January 17, 2025 at 2:30:06 PM UTC-7 warne...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I currently have Shimano BR650 calipers on my Riv Roadeo, and have to 
>> deflate the 35mm tires to remove the wheel.  I'm looking for 
>> recommendations for calipers that would open wide enough for the RH Bon Jon 
>> Pass tires I'm using (35mm wide).
>> I believe the Velo Orange Grand Cru calipers would accommodate these 
>> tires any thoughts on these?
>> Also, not sure about Paul Racer M's??  I appreciate the wisdom and 
>> insight of the forum!!
>>
>> thanks!
>> Bob
>>
>

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[RBW] Caliper brake recommendations for 35mm tires

[Bob Warner]

I currently have Shimano BR650 calipers on my Riv Roadeo, and have to 
deflate the 35mm tires to remove the wheel.  I'm looking for 
recommendations for calipers that would open wide enough for the RH Bon Jon 
Pass tires I'm using (35mm wide).
I believe the Velo Orange Grand Cru calipers would accommodate these 
tires any thoughts on these?
Also, not sure about Paul Racer M's??  I appreciate the wisdom and insight 
of the forum!!

thanks!
Bob

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Re: [RBW] Re: Advice sought: mounting Nitto M12 or similar front rack to Paul cantis

[Bill Lindsay]

Skip outed one on Craigslist for only $100 over on the internet-bob group.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Friday, January 17, 2025 at 1:59:47 PM UTC-8 abraham nussbaum wrote:

> Thanks, all, for the great advice. Eager for the build-- it's a dream 
> frame.
>
> I emailed Gramm and will let you know if I hear back. 
>
> Put that VO rack on the maybe list.
>
> Also: anyone holding a Rene Herse M-13 with the light mount they want to 
> sell?
>
>
> On Thursday, January 16, 2025 at 4:36:27 PM UTC-7 brizbarn wrote:
>
>> Have you emailed Gramm about the canti stud mounting option?  I imagine 
>> the rack might come with a separate set of struts for mounting to canti 
>> brake bosses.  Maybe they just don't have pics of the canti mounting setup 
>> on their website. 
>>
>> I have a velo orange rando front rack that is mounted to Riv appaloosa 
>> canti brake bosses, but the VO rack has that built in specific canit brake 
>> mounting point.  I just used a couple of chainring hardware pieces to act 
>> as spacers/washers, no need for special bolts, just use the bolts that come 
>> with your brakes. 
>>
>> Something like this VO has the built in decaleur for a rando bag, which 
>> keeps bag mounting simple, with less worry about getting the height correct 
>> on a regular decaleur. - 
>> https://velo-orange.com/collections/front-racks/products/rando-front-rack-with-integrated-decaleur-cantilever
>> Might not be what you're looking for, but it's another option.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jan 16, 2025 at 2:25 PM Bob  wrote:
>>
>>> Wow, Abraham—that's a beautiful bicycle. Mark's work is stunning. 
>>> Depending on measurements, I'm sure you could make a RH rack work. Yes, 
>>> they're spendy, but man, they are really, really nice. I have a UD-1 on a 
>>> bike and I'm glad I do.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Bob
>>> On Thursday, January 16, 2025 at 2:28:05 PM UTC-7 abraham nussbaum wrote:
>>>
 Thanks, all. I agree that it seems unlikely to work and, potentially 
 dangerous.

 I got interested in it because Russ from PLP ran a video about how much 
 I liked the rack/bag they make. I checked it out and saw that claim, but I 
 could not see how it mounted to cantis.

 A quick search of this forum turned up an old post and I decided to see 
 if folks were still reading. As always, this list is populated by smart, 
 thoughtful folks. Thank you!

 For context, I picked up a beautiful Nobillette rando that does not 
 have midrack fender mounts. (It was someone else's custom-- I would have 
 ordered them if it was my build.) It's a rando frame and I would love to 
 run a rando bag, but a) dislike running a rack to the low mount and b) am 
 searching for something less spendy than the Rene Herse UD-2.

 Thanks for the advice:
 -be careful tightening those adapters
 -keep a care spare of struts
 -be a master strut bender

 Or go without a front rack. I'll also consider a small bag 
 support or any other smart ideas from this board. Thanks!

 On Thursday, January 16, 2025 at 7:18:48 AM UTC-7 Minh wrote:

> I have to say the bending prowess or bravery in this thread is strong, 
> both installation modifications look great.
>
> On Thursday, January 16, 2025 at 7:32:02 AM UTC-5 brok...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> I forced this Rene Herse UD-2 canti rack onto my 26” Atlantis by 
>> bending the adjustable struts. I had a backup pair in case I butchered 
>> the 
>> job, but it worked pretty perfectly. I’m also using the Paul rack 
>> adapters. 
>>
>> -- 
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>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] FS: Craigslist, etc 2025

[JAS]

60cm Romulus
$1000
McMinnville, OR
https://portland.craigslist.org/yam/bik/d/newberg-63cm-rivendell-romulus/7816429943.html
On Friday, January 17, 2025 at 9:21:50 PM UTC-8 JAS wrote:

> 60cm Platypus NOS frame/fork, 
> Eugene OR
> $1675
>
> https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bik/d/eugene-rivendell-platypus-60cm-frameset/7819255478.html
>
> On Thursday, January 16, 2025 at 9:34:46 AM UTC-8 Marty Gierke, 
> Stewartstown PA wrote:
>
>> 61.5 AHH - Brooklyn $1500 
>> 
>>
>> Classic AHH if you're close. Sounds like offers may be accepted. Never 
>> built up. No interest on my part
>>
>> Marty
>>
>> [image: 00a0a_775zAcqWRB1_0CI0t2_1200x900.jpg]
>>
>> On Wednesday, January 15, 2025 at 11:20:37 AM UTC-5 Brian Forsee wrote:
>>
>>> Great deal on that frame! Unfortunately even as a tall guy its too big 
>>> for me. Good luck snagging it Tim!
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, January 15, 2025 at 9:59:29 AM UTC-6 timothym...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I emailed the seller of the 64cm bombadil monday night to see if he 
 would ship it and I haven't heard back. 

 Is anyone in the group willing to middleman this transaction for me? I 
 will send a shipping label and compensate you for your time. Let me know!

 Tim in Philly
 @cleanupyouract
 On Tuesday, January 14, 2025 at 4:43:46 PM UTC-5 Oliver Moss wrote:

> Dang, that's a big mama.
>
> On Tuesday, January 14, 2025 at 3:10:49 PM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> I like pictures so here's the SF Bombadil shared by Jamie D. for when 
>> the link dies. It's a 64cm, owner says they're 6'7" with a 100cm PBH
>>
>> Bombadil f/f/hs, 64cm
>> $1,500
>>
>> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik/d/san-francisco-64cm-rivendell-bombadil/7817854292.html
>> San Francisco
>>
>> [image: 00c0c_3x4RnNnwfXc_0t20CI_1200x900.jpg]
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 14, 2025 at 12:26:41 PM UTC-5 Jamie D. wrote:
>>
>>> Big Beautiful Bombadil
>>>
>>>
>>> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik/d/san-francisco-64cm-rivendell-bombadil/7817854292.html
>>>
>>> On Monday, January 13, 2025 at 12:15:12 PM UTC-5 John Johnson wrote:
>>>
 Curious what the story is with the fork on the Sam in Oakland...

 Le lundi 13 janvier 2025 à 17:19:56 UTC+1, philip@gmail.com a 
 écrit :

> Thanks for sharing!
>
> Just inquired as I need a wheelset for the Roadini I’m building 
> for the Mrs…
>
> P. W.
> ~
> (917) 514-2207
> ~
>
>
>
>
> On Jan 12, 2025, at 6:10 PM, Jerry Lynn  
> wrote:
>
> 
>
> *Not mine, no affiliation... *
>
>
> *700c wheelset - Pacenti Brevet rims / Grand Bois hubs / Rene 
> Herse - $450 (mission district)*
>
>
>
> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bop/d/san-francisco-700c-wheelset-pacenti/7817828686.html
>
>
> Selling a very lightly used handbuilt 700c wheelset that is 
> compatible with up to 11 speed Shimano/SRAM style cassettes.
>
>
> - 32-hole silver Pacenti Brevet rims
>
>
> - Grand Bois high flange hubs (100 mm front / 130 mm rear spacing)
>
>
> - Rene Herse Hurricane Ridge Extralight 700x42 mm tires (set up 
> tubeless)
>
>
> - Skewers included
>
>
> $450 as pictured or $375 without tires. Venmo/paypal preferred. 
> Thanks!
>
>
> <00101_doz8iZHtarT_0t20CI_1200x900.jpg>
>
>
> Jerry Lynn
> Imperial Beach, CA
> On Sunday, 12 January 2025 at 16:40:49 UTC-8 Josh C wrote:
>
>> 52 Sam in Oakland for $1300 seems like a good price 
>>
>> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/d/oakland-rivendell-hillborne-52cm/7816955697.html
>>
>> On Saturday, January 11, 2025 at 10:40:45 AM UTC-5 Eric Marth 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Bleriot, 59cm
>>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/176783507009
>>> Spanish Fort, Alabama
>>> $2,100 Buy It Now
>>>
>>> [image: Screen Shot 2025-01-11 at 10.40.24 AM.png]
>>>
>>> On Thursday, January 9, 2025 at 12:49:40 AM UTC-5 Mike Godwin 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Gran Premio is one that got away. 
 Mike SLO CA 
 On Monday, January 6, 2025 at 5:54:19 PM UTC-8 Keith Weaver 
 wrote:

> I'm the proud owner of a similar Gran Premio, same color 
> (Brown Sand?), but with the Suntour symmetric shifters and 
> Superbe 
> derailers. A real time capsule and just what I lusted ov

Re: [RBW] FS: Craigslist, etc 2025

[JAS]

60cm Platypus NOS frame/fork, 
Eugene OR
$1675
https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bik/d/eugene-rivendell-platypus-60cm-frameset/7819255478.html

On Thursday, January 16, 2025 at 9:34:46 AM UTC-8 Marty Gierke, 
Stewartstown PA wrote:

> 61.5 AHH - Brooklyn $1500 
> 
>
> Classic AHH if you're close. Sounds like offers may be accepted. Never 
> built up. No interest on my part
>
> Marty
>
> [image: 00a0a_775zAcqWRB1_0CI0t2_1200x900.jpg]
>
> On Wednesday, January 15, 2025 at 11:20:37 AM UTC-5 Brian Forsee wrote:
>
>> Great deal on that frame! Unfortunately even as a tall guy its too big 
>> for me. Good luck snagging it Tim!
>>
>> On Wednesday, January 15, 2025 at 9:59:29 AM UTC-6 timothym...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I emailed the seller of the 64cm bombadil monday night to see if he 
>>> would ship it and I haven't heard back. 
>>>
>>> Is anyone in the group willing to middleman this transaction for me? I 
>>> will send a shipping label and compensate you for your time. Let me know!
>>>
>>> Tim in Philly
>>> @cleanupyouract
>>> On Tuesday, January 14, 2025 at 4:43:46 PM UTC-5 Oliver Moss wrote:
>>>
 Dang, that's a big mama.

 On Tuesday, January 14, 2025 at 3:10:49 PM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> I like pictures so here's the SF Bombadil shared by Jamie D. for when 
> the link dies. It's a 64cm, owner says they're 6'7" with a 100cm PBH
>
> Bombadil f/f/hs, 64cm
> $1,500
>
> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik/d/san-francisco-64cm-rivendell-bombadil/7817854292.html
> San Francisco
>
> [image: 00c0c_3x4RnNnwfXc_0t20CI_1200x900.jpg]
>
> On Tuesday, January 14, 2025 at 12:26:41 PM UTC-5 Jamie D. wrote:
>
>> Big Beautiful Bombadil
>>
>>
>> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik/d/san-francisco-64cm-rivendell-bombadil/7817854292.html
>>
>> On Monday, January 13, 2025 at 12:15:12 PM UTC-5 John Johnson wrote:
>>
>>> Curious what the story is with the fork on the Sam in Oakland...
>>>
>>> Le lundi 13 janvier 2025 à 17:19:56 UTC+1, philip@gmail.com a 
>>> écrit :
>>>
 Thanks for sharing!

 Just inquired as I need a wheelset for the Roadini I’m building for 
 the Mrs…

 P. W.
 ~
 (917) 514-2207
 ~




 On Jan 12, 2025, at 6:10 PM, Jerry Lynn  wrote:

 

 *Not mine, no affiliation... *


 *700c wheelset - Pacenti Brevet rims / Grand Bois hubs / Rene Herse 
 - $450 (mission district)*



 https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bop/d/san-francisco-700c-wheelset-pacenti/7817828686.html


 Selling a very lightly used handbuilt 700c wheelset that is 
 compatible with up to 11 speed Shimano/SRAM style cassettes.


 - 32-hole silver Pacenti Brevet rims


 - Grand Bois high flange hubs (100 mm front / 130 mm rear spacing)


 - Rene Herse Hurricane Ridge Extralight 700x42 mm tires (set up 
 tubeless)


 - Skewers included


 $450 as pictured or $375 without tires. Venmo/paypal preferred. 
 Thanks!


 <00101_doz8iZHtarT_0t20CI_1200x900.jpg>


 Jerry Lynn
 Imperial Beach, CA
 On Sunday, 12 January 2025 at 16:40:49 UTC-8 Josh C wrote:

> 52 Sam in Oakland for $1300 seems like a good price 
>
> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/d/oakland-rivendell-hillborne-52cm/7816955697.html
>
> On Saturday, January 11, 2025 at 10:40:45 AM UTC-5 Eric Marth 
> wrote:
>
>> Bleriot, 59cm
>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/176783507009
>> Spanish Fort, Alabama
>> $2,100 Buy It Now
>>
>> [image: Screen Shot 2025-01-11 at 10.40.24 AM.png]
>>
>> On Thursday, January 9, 2025 at 12:49:40 AM UTC-5 Mike Godwin 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Gran Premio is one that got away. 
>>> Mike SLO CA 
>>> On Monday, January 6, 2025 at 5:54:19 PM UTC-8 Keith Weaver 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I'm the proud owner of a similar Gran Premio, same color (Brown 
 Sand?), but with the Suntour symmetric shifters and Superbe 
 derailers. A 
 real time capsule and just what I lusted over in my local bike 
 shop in 
 central WA back in the mid-80s. I didn't really need it, but I 
 couldn't 
 pass it up when I saw it in a local bike re-seller shop. I also 
 paid $350 
 for mine, which felt a bit steep, but you don't see them every 
 day...
>

Re: [RBW] FS: Craigslist, etc 2025

[JAS]

56cm Sam Hillborne
$2500
Tualatin, OR
https://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/bik/d/tualatin-rivendell-sam-hillborne-56cm/7807018536.html

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[RBW] Re: Caliper brake recommendations for 35mm tires

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

Ryan's recommendation of doubling up on QR with QR on the calipers and QR 
on the levers is probably your best chance of getting adequate clearance. I 
have a similar setup with Grand Cru brakes and Campagnolo Ergopowers (with 
the built-in QR).

One thing you didn't mention is what rims you're using. The narrower the 
rim, the less the QR is able to clear wider tires when opened. As an 
extreme example, if you're running 30mm rims with 35mm tires, the QR only 
needs to nominally clear the 5mm difference. However, if you're running 
super narrow 19mm rims with the same 35mm tires, you're looking to clear 
16mm of "tire bulge", which is more of a challenge.

On Friday, January 17, 2025 at 2:45:43 PM UTC-8 Ryan wrote:

> I have 32mm Stampede Pass tires on my Rivendell Road. I realize they're 
> not 35mm. I also have Grand Cru brakes and TRP road levers with the 
> additional QR button, for additional slack on the inside of the brake 
> hoods. Maybe that combo could work? Don't have a wheelset with 35 mm tires 
> ready to hand to tell you for sure, however, unfortunately, but maybe 
> someone else on the list has this brake/lever combo AND >= 35 mm tires and 
> could tell you for sure. One reviewer on Orange Velo site  mentions that 
> the Grand Cru  brakes on their own don't release enough to mount a wheel 
> with a 35mm tire...but in combo with the TRP levers, they just might clear 
> your 35mm tire. Functionally and aesthetically they are a nice combo.
>
> On Friday, January 17, 2025 at 4:00:39 PM UTC-6 iamkeith wrote:
>
>> I hope I have these model numbers correct and not transposed, but the 
>> Tektro R539 was originally designed by and for Rivendell, as the first 
>> "Silver" branded brake.  It was designed specifically for this purpose - as 
>> an upgrade for Rambouillets and Romuli and Redwoods, etc, which were 
>> designed to fit 33-37 tires, at at time when medium-reach brakes were few 
>> and far between.   Tektro eventually started selling them to anybody.  I'm 
>> not sure why Rivendell doesn't still carry them, but does still carry the 
>> even-longer-reach R559.  At any rate, they're still available but it might 
>> take some looking to find some in a proper silver finish.  I don't think 
>> I'd ever rave about any caliper brake, but have them on my Ram and they are 
>> fine and do what you are looking for.
>>
>> On Friday, January 17, 2025 at 2:30:06 PM UTC-7 warne...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> I currently have Shimano BR650 calipers on my Riv Roadeo, and have to 
>>> deflate the 35mm tires to remove the wheel.  I'm looking for 
>>> recommendations for calipers that would open wide enough for the RH Bon Jon 
>>> Pass tires I'm using (35mm wide).
>>> I believe the Velo Orange Grand Cru calipers would accommodate these 
>>> tires any thoughts on these?
>>> Also, not sure about Paul Racer M's??  I appreciate the wisdom and 
>>> insight of the forum!!
>>>
>>> thanks!
>>> Bob
>>>
>>

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[RBW] 2025 Philadelphia Bike Expo -- anyone planning on going?

[Julian Westerhout]

The 2025 Philadelphia Bike Expo is on March 8 and 9, and Rivendell is going 
to be there.  I went last year for a few hours (on my way back home from a 
family visit in MD) and enjoyed it a lot. Fun to meet some of the Rivendell 
staff in person, and lots of other interesting things to look at and enjoy. 

I'm thinking about going again this year - -but for a bit longer in order 
to be able to really enjoy it. 

Anyone else considering going? 

Julian Westerhout
Bloomington, IL 

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Re: [RBW] FS: Nitto campee mini rack, XTR 952RD, Pauls brakeset

[dylan green]

Rack has been spoken for.

Paul's pending payment.

I realized the lights in the photo gallery weren't priced. Those are $140
for the set.

On Thu, Jan 16, 2025 at 3:51 PM dylan green 
wrote:

> Clearing out the parts bin. I'm trying to keep the post manageable, so
> once this sells through I will put a new listing out with additional parts.
> All prices are before shipping/fees. I have every payment option under the
> sun, let's just figure out what works best for each transaction. If you are
> looking for anything else not listed, just ask, as I'm slowly making my way
> through the parts bin.
>
> photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/EBjbevFYp9rmpHHu8
>
> Nitto Campee mini front - 100 plus shipping
>
> Paul's Neo Retro/Touring set (1 bikes worth). Silver. Could pass for new
> with the exception of the pads having some use. - $175 plush shipping
>
> XTR 952RD - Relative to a lot out there, I'd say this is in great
> condition. Some scratches I tried to show in photos, but again, compared to
> what's out there it's pretty clean. $75 plus shipping
>
> Worth noting, I have been on the lookout for a 54 hunqapillar so if anyone
> who has read this far has one for sale, please reach out.
>
> --
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> 
> .
>

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[RBW] Re: Caliper brake recommendations for 35mm tires

[iamkeith]

I hope I have these model numbers correct and not transposed, but the 
Tektro R539 was originally designed by and for Rivendell, as the first 
"Silver" branded brake.  It was designed specifically for this purpose - as 
an upgrade for Rambouillets and Romuli and Redwoods, etc, which were 
designed to fit 33-37 tires, at at time when medium-reach brakes were few 
and far between.   Tektro eventually started selling them to anybody.  I'm 
not sure why Rivendell doesn't still carry them, but does still carry the 
even-longer-reach R559.  At any rate, they're still available but it might 
take some looking to find some in a proper silver finish.  I don't think 
I'd ever rave about any caliper brake, but have them on my Ram and they are 
fine and do what you are looking for.

On Friday, January 17, 2025 at 2:30:06 PM UTC-7 warne...@gmail.com wrote:

> I currently have Shimano BR650 calipers on my Riv Roadeo, and have to 
> deflate the 35mm tires to remove the wheel.  I'm looking for 
> recommendations for calipers that would open wide enough for the RH Bon Jon 
> Pass tires I'm using (35mm wide).
> I believe the Velo Orange Grand Cru calipers would accommodate these 
> tires any thoughts on these?
> Also, not sure about Paul Racer M's??  I appreciate the wisdom and insight 
> of the forum!!
>
> thanks!
> Bob
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Advice sought: mounting Nitto M12 or similar front rack to Paul cantis

[abraham nussbaum]

Thanks, all, for the great advice. Eager for the build-- it's a dream frame.

I emailed Gramm and will let you know if I hear back. 

Put that VO rack on the maybe list.

Also: anyone holding a Rene Herse M-13 with the light mount they want to 
sell?


On Thursday, January 16, 2025 at 4:36:27 PM UTC-7 brizbarn wrote:

> Have you emailed Gramm about the canti stud mounting option?  I imagine 
> the rack might come with a separate set of struts for mounting to canti 
> brake bosses.  Maybe they just don't have pics of the canti mounting setup 
> on their website. 
>
> I have a velo orange rando front rack that is mounted to Riv appaloosa 
> canti brake bosses, but the VO rack has that built in specific canit brake 
> mounting point.  I just used a couple of chainring hardware pieces to act 
> as spacers/washers, no need for special bolts, just use the bolts that come 
> with your brakes. 
>
> Something like this VO has the built in decaleur for a rando bag, which 
> keeps bag mounting simple, with less worry about getting the height correct 
> on a regular decaleur. - 
> https://velo-orange.com/collections/front-racks/products/rando-front-rack-with-integrated-decaleur-cantilever
> Might not be what you're looking for, but it's another option.
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jan 16, 2025 at 2:25 PM Bob  wrote:
>
>> Wow, Abraham—that's a beautiful bicycle. Mark's work is stunning. 
>> Depending on measurements, I'm sure you could make a RH rack work. Yes, 
>> they're spendy, but man, they are really, really nice. I have a UD-1 on a 
>> bike and I'm glad I do.
>>
>> --
>> Bob
>> On Thursday, January 16, 2025 at 2:28:05 PM UTC-7 abraham nussbaum wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks, all. I agree that it seems unlikely to work and, potentially 
>>> dangerous.
>>>
>>> I got interested in it because Russ from PLP ran a video about how much 
>>> I liked the rack/bag they make. I checked it out and saw that claim, but I 
>>> could not see how it mounted to cantis.
>>>
>>> A quick search of this forum turned up an old post and I decided to see 
>>> if folks were still reading. As always, this list is populated by smart, 
>>> thoughtful folks. Thank you!
>>>
>>> For context, I picked up a beautiful Nobillette rando that does not have 
>>> midrack fender mounts. (It was someone else's custom-- I would have ordered 
>>> them if it was my build.) It's a rando frame and I would love to run a 
>>> rando bag, but a) dislike running a rack to the low mount and b) am 
>>> searching for something less spendy than the Rene Herse UD-2.
>>>
>>> Thanks for the advice:
>>> -be careful tightening those adapters
>>> -keep a care spare of struts
>>> -be a master strut bender
>>>
>>> Or go without a front rack. I'll also consider a small bag 
>>> support or any other smart ideas from this board. Thanks!
>>>
>>> On Thursday, January 16, 2025 at 7:18:48 AM UTC-7 Minh wrote:
>>>
 I have to say the bending prowess or bravery in this thread is strong, 
 both installation modifications look great.

 On Thursday, January 16, 2025 at 7:32:02 AM UTC-5 brok...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> I forced this Rene Herse UD-2 canti rack onto my 26” Atlantis by 
> bending the adjustable struts. I had a backup pair in case I butchered 
> the 
> job, but it worked pretty perfectly. I’m also using the Paul rack 
> adapters. 
>
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[RBW] Tire/Wheel Strategy - 4 Seasons

[Jay]

I'm looking for ideas to expand and optimize my riding with one of my two 
bikes.

This isn't for my Roadini - I have that equation solved.  I have two 
wheelsets, one with 43 GKSS for all-road rides, including accessing the two 
rail trails a little further out of town, and some gravel cuts/trails to 
avoid busier roads, while adding the joy that comes from riding these cuts. 
 And one with 30mm tires on Dura-Ace rims for fast (as I can go) road rides 
with a friend.

My other bike is a Salsa Fargo.  Going into my third year with it, and it 
has been great for my local, non-technical trails.  I ride that around 2x a 
week on these trails, where I'm 80% unpaved and 20% paved (paths, 
sidewalks, roads).  I have the stock wheels and tires (2.2" Terevail 
Sparwoods, and a wheelset I had build but a local wheel guy, running Hope 
hubs, Stans Arch rims, tubeless with Sim Works Super Yummy 2.2" tires. 
 That wheelset was on the bike exclusively, up until winter started here 
outside Toronto, and it was awesome for three seasons.

*Looking for ideas on*: up until we had snow that stuck (last three weeks), 
I didn't have a problem with my setup.  I took the good wheels off the 
Fargo, and put on the stock ones with faster-rolling Sparwoods and used it 
on the often-wet winter roads, where there may be a little bit of 
snow/slush (no ice).  With fenders, this has made for a good winter bike, 
when the roads are relatively clear of snow/ice.  *What I'm missing though 
is perhaps a studded trail tire so I can ride those same local trails I do 
in the summer, in the winter*.  I don't want to ride exclusively on 
snowy/slushy roads, just on the trails that are .5km away.  I can add a 
dedicated wheel with something like Schwalbe Ice Spikers, but that's 
expensive, for maybe 10-15 rides where I can't ride on the roads.  For now 
I'm on the trainer on those days.

Welcome your ideas!  Thanks

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Re: [RBW] Slipping/sliding/jumping/ghosting gears on a new Platypus

[meti...@gmail.com]

Good Friday morning, friends. 

I took a beautiful ride on my new Platy yesterday…yes, there is still salt 
and some ice on the roads and snow is everywhere, but temps were in the 20s 
and I decided to get the bike out anyway. I don’t want to be so persnickety 
about a bicycle that I can’t ride it. I’ll pamper it later on. 

We initially put a new chain on it, but the gears still slipped. 

Next, we replaced the cassette and also added the dab of blue Locktite 
everyone suggested to the D ring of the shifter, and the 30-minute ride 
following those changes proved to solve the shifting issue but turned up a 
new audible and palpable thumping when in one single gear. My hero 
mechanics filed down a nub on the new chain and the thumping disappeared. 

I’m convinced my initial slipping/ghost-shifting problem has been 
solved…either by replacing the cassette or by the Locktite or the 
combination of those two.  

Here’s a decision I  might question myself on later—my mechanics and I have 
 lost some confidence in these Silver shifters on my bike, y’all. I can’t 
help it. And I’m not speaking badly about the shifters or other bicycles or 
cyclists who find they work well…I’m speaking only of my bike and these 
shifter and me. 

Each time the bike is on the stand, when the mechanics shift through the 
gears, even they have to WORK and fiddle to get the higher gears to settle 
into gear. Is that making sense? The shifters seem too stiff in those 
highest gears, and it takes too much finagling and kid-glove handling to 
get things to work right. I’m not into that kind of riding—I want to shift 
as I always shift…I’m a competent enough rider and I’ve been at this a long 
time and I know how to shift and I don’t want to effing think about being 
careful in the higher gears—so we’re replacing the shifters. I’ll be out of 
town for a week or two, and when I return, I should have new shifters. They 
might not work well either…I don’t know. But we’re gonna try it. 

Liz, and that’s that,  in Cincinnati




On Tuesday, January 14, 2025 at 6:36:52 PM UTC-5 John Williams wrote:

> Happy New Year Liz!
> How frustrating for you!
>
> There a a few issues/questions:
> Are you riding a 1x or 2x chainring set up?
>
> Has the rear derailleur alignment been checked? (The dropout?)
>
> Are the two jockey wheels aligned?
> If you stand behind the parked bike, in the lowest gear, close one eye and 
> imagine a line strait up and down where the chain comes up off the two 
> wheels. If it’s cocked in any way, that can lead to the ghost shifts. It 
> can also be the jockey wheels aren’t lubed or aren’t the proper ones for 
> your shift system. 
>
> Are you certain that the rear cable is free of any possible crimps, (like 
> under the bottom bracket?) Do you have a kick stand mounted? If so, look 
> carefully at the cables adjacent to the kickstand and that the cables do 
> NOT touch the kickstand or its bracket. It’s often overlooked. 
>
> Another test- grab the rear bare shift cable and see if that shifts and 
> overrides the shifters. (You may need to put your bike on a stationary 
> trainer).  
>
> Last check- make certain you don’t have a modern 11-12 speed chain on the 
> bike. It takes the older, wider chain on these wider spaced 
> freewheels/cassettes. 
>
> Good luck!
> (I wish I had a Platypus, 60, Ana Purple)
>
> JRW
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 6, 2025 at 10:45 AM meti...@gmail.com  
> wrote:
>
>> Your thoughts on a skipping/slipping/floating chain and gear, please.
>>
>> In late November 2024. I received my newly built up Platypus from C&L 
>> Cycles in Montreal. I love it beyond description. However, there’s one very 
>> frustrating issue that I can’t figure out and wonder what insight you 
>> friends might have about it.
>>
>> From the get-go, the gears have slipped. Yes, I’m using friction Silver 
>> Shifters, and I’ve spent a lot of time eliminating myself as the problem 
>> here. But I’ve ALWAYS used friction shifters on every bike (other than my 
>> Clem) and I’m not a klutz, and I’ve tried really really hard to be land 
>> these gear changes, but this problem just keeps happening. I’ve put 
>> probably 200 miles on the Platypus and I’ve not taken a single ride on it 
>> that this has not been a problem. 
>>
>> The issue occurs on the rear 9-gear cassette and almost always in the 
>> highest 3 gears…especially when going uphill or cresting a hill, but not 
>> always. 
>>
>> Sometimes the chain seems to simply float EVEN WHEN I’M NOT PEDALING, and 
>> then it lands wherever it wants without my touching the shifter.
>>
>> This is driving me nuts because I adore this bicycle and this problem is 
>> making me lose trust. It’s not safe to ride in the kind of traffic I ride.
>>
>> I’ve taken the bike to my local bike shop, and we’ve changed the chain, 
>> but the issue continues. 
>>
>> (I’m pretty sure no one at the bike shop is actually riding the Playtpus 
>> very far, which is disappointing…because I’m convinced that if they

Re: [RBW] Slipping/sliding/jumping/ghosting gears on a new Platypus

[Eric Daume]

Are you keeping with friction shifting, or going indexed?

Eric

On Friday, January 17, 2025, meti...@gmail.com  wrote:

> Good Friday morning, friends.
>
> I took a beautiful ride on my new Platy yesterday…yes, there is still salt
> and some ice on the roads and snow is everywhere, but temps were in the 20s
> and I decided to get the bike out anyway. I don’t want to be so persnickety
> about a bicycle that I can’t ride it. I’ll pamper it later on.
>
> We initially put a new chain on it, but the gears still slipped.
>
> Next, we replaced the cassette and also added the dab of blue Locktite
> everyone suggested to the D ring of the shifter, and the 30-minute ride
> following those changes proved to solve the shifting issue but turned up a
> new audible and palpable thumping when in one single gear. My hero
> mechanics filed down a nub on the new chain and the thumping disappeared.
>
> I’m convinced my initial slipping/ghost-shifting problem has been
> solved…either by replacing the cassette or by the Locktite or the
> combination of those two.
>
> Here’s a decision I  might question myself on later—my mechanics and I
> have  lost some confidence in these Silver shifters on my bike, y’all. I
> can’t help it. And I’m not speaking badly about the shifters or other
> bicycles or cyclists who find they work well…I’m speaking only of my bike
> and these shifter and me.
>
> Each time the bike is on the stand, when the mechanics shift through the
> gears, even they have to WORK and fiddle to get the higher gears to settle
> into gear. Is that making sense? The shifters seem too stiff in those
> highest gears, and it takes too much finagling and kid-glove handling to
> get things to work right. I’m not into that kind of riding—I want to shift
> as I always shift…I’m a competent enough rider and I’ve been at this a long
> time and I know how to shift and I don’t want to effing think about being
> careful in the higher gears—so we’re replacing the shifters. I’ll be out of
> town for a week or two, and when I return, I should have new shifters. They
> might not work well either…I don’t know. But we’re gonna try it.
>
> Liz, and that’s that,  in Cincinnati
>
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 14, 2025 at 6:36:52 PM UTC-5 John Williams wrote:
>
>> Happy New Year Liz!
>> How frustrating for you!
>>
>> There a a few issues/questions:
>> Are you riding a 1x or 2x chainring set up?
>>
>> Has the rear derailleur alignment been checked? (The dropout?)
>>
>> Are the two jockey wheels aligned?
>> If you stand behind the parked bike, in the lowest gear, close one eye
>> and imagine a line strait up and down where the chain comes up off the two
>> wheels. If it’s cocked in any way, that can lead to the ghost shifts. It
>> can also be the jockey wheels aren’t lubed or aren’t the proper ones for
>> your shift system.
>>
>> Are you certain that the rear cable is free of any possible crimps, (like
>> under the bottom bracket?) Do you have a kick stand mounted? If so, look
>> carefully at the cables adjacent to the kickstand and that the cables do
>> NOT touch the kickstand or its bracket. It’s often overlooked.
>>
>> Another test- grab the rear bare shift cable and see if that shifts and
>> overrides the shifters. (You may need to put your bike on a stationary
>> trainer).
>>
>> Last check- make certain you don’t have a modern 11-12 speed chain on the
>> bike. It takes the older, wider chain on these wider spaced
>> freewheels/cassettes.
>>
>> Good luck!
>> (I wish I had a Platypus, 60, Ana Purple)
>>
>> JRW
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jan 6, 2025 at 10:45 AM meti...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Your thoughts on a skipping/slipping/floating chain and gear, please.
>>>
>>> In late November 2024. I received my newly built up Platypus from C&L
>>> Cycles in Montreal. I love it beyond description. However, there’s one very
>>> frustrating issue that I can’t figure out and wonder what insight you
>>> friends might have about it.
>>>
>>> From the get-go, the gears have slipped. Yes, I’m using friction Silver
>>> Shifters, and I’ve spent a lot of time eliminating myself as the problem
>>> here. But I’ve ALWAYS used friction shifters on every bike (other than my
>>> Clem) and I’m not a klutz, and I’ve tried really really hard to be land
>>> these gear changes, but this problem just keeps happening. I’ve put
>>> probably 200 miles on the Platypus and I’ve not taken a single ride on it
>>> that this has not been a problem.
>>>
>>> The issue occurs on the rear 9-gear cassette and almost always in the
>>> highest 3 gears…especially when going uphill or cresting a hill, but not
>>> always.
>>>
>>> Sometimes the chain seems to simply float EVEN WHEN I’M NOT PEDALING,
>>> and then it lands wherever it wants without my touching the shifter.
>>>
>>> This is driving me nuts because I adore this bicycle and this problem is
>>> making me lose trust. It’s not safe to ride in the kind of traffic I ride.
>>>
>>> I’ve taken the bike to my local bike shop, and we’ve

Re: [RBW] Tire/Wheel Strategy - 4 Seasons

[Richard Rose]

Honestly & from my own experience, find a used fatbike. I no longer have one for the reason you site - 15 rides. But, it’s still the best answer. In those conditions the fatbike is so much fun & does no damage to the trail. Just a thought.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 17, 2025, at 6:54 AM, Jay  wrote:I'm looking for ideas to expand and optimize my riding with one of my two bikes.This isn't for my Roadini - I have that equation solved.  I have two wheelsets, one with 43 GKSS for all-road rides, including accessing the two rail trails a little further out of town, and some gravel cuts/trails to avoid busier roads, while adding the joy that comes from riding these cuts.  And one with 30mm tires on Dura-Ace rims for fast (as I can go) road rides with a friend.My other bike is a Salsa Fargo.  Going into my third year with it, and it has been great for my local, non-technical trails.  I ride that around 2x a week on these trails, where I'm 80% unpaved and 20% paved (paths, sidewalks, roads).  I have the stock wheels and tires (2.2" Terevail Sparwoods, and a wheelset I had build but a local wheel guy, running Hope hubs, Stans Arch rims, tubeless with Sim Works Super Yummy 2.2" tires.  That wheelset was on the bike exclusively, up until winter started here outside Toronto, and it was awesome for three seasons.Looking for ideas on: up until we had snow that stuck (last three weeks), I didn't have a problem with my setup.  I took the good wheels off the Fargo, and put on the stock ones with faster-rolling Sparwoods and used it on the often-wet winter roads, where there may be a little bit of snow/slush (no ice).  With fenders, this has made for a good winter bike, when the roads are relatively clear of snow/ice.  What I'm missing though is perhaps a studded trail tire so I can ride those same local trails I do in the summer, in the winter.  I don't want to ride exclusively on snowy/slushy roads, just on the trails that are .5km away.  I can add a dedicated wheel with something like Schwalbe Ice Spikers, but that's expensive, for maybe 10-15 rides where I can't ride on the roads.  For now I'm on the trainer on those days.Welcome your ideas!  Thanks



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Re: [RBW] Slipping/sliding/jumping/ghosting gears on a new Platypus

[Liz Tilton]

Good question, Eric! We’re gonna try Microshifts that can be switched to go with either way. I use similar friction/index shifters on my Atlantis and always keep them switched to friction, the mode I prefer. Sent with delight from my iPhoneOn Jan 17, 2025, at 7:39 AM, Eric Daume  wrote:Are you keeping with friction shifting, or going indexed?EricOn Friday, January 17, 2025, meti...@gmail.com  wrote:Good Friday morning, friends. I took a beautiful ride on my new Platy yesterday…yes, there is still salt and some ice on the roads and snow is everywhere, but temps were in the 20s and I decided to get the bike out anyway. I don’t want to be so persnickety about a bicycle that I can’t ride it. I’ll pamper it later on. We initially put a new chain on it, but the gears still slipped. Next, we replaced the cassette and also added the dab of blue Locktite everyone suggested to the D ring of the shifter, and the 30-minute ride following those changes proved to solve the shifting issue but turned up a new audible and palpable thumping when in one single gear. My hero mechanics filed down a nub on the new chain and the thumping disappeared. I’m convinced my initial slipping/ghost-shifting problem has been solved…either by replacing the cassette or by the Locktite or the combination of those two.  Here’s a decision I  might question myself on later—my mechanics and I have  lost some confidence in these Silver shifters on my bike, y’all. I can’t help it. And I’m not speaking badly about the shifters or other bicycles or cyclists who find they work well…I’m speaking only of my bike and these shifter and me. Each time the bike is on the stand, when the mechanics shift through the gears, even they have to WORK and fiddle to get the higher gears to settle into gear. Is that making sense? The shifters seem too stiff in those highest gears, and it takes too much finagling and kid-glove handling to get things to work right. I’m not into that kind of riding—I want to shift as I always shift…I’m a competent enough rider and I’ve been at this a long time and I know how to shift and I don’t want to effing think about being careful in the higher gears—so we’re replacing the shifters. I’ll be out of town for a week or two, and when I return, I should have new shifters. They might not work well either…I don’t know. But we’re gonna try it. Liz, and that’s that,  in CincinnatiOn Tuesday, January 14, 2025 at 6:36:52 PM UTC-5 John Williams wrote:Happy New Year Liz!How frustrating for you!There a a few issues/questions:Are you riding a 1x or 2x chainring set up?Has the rear derailleur alignment been checked? (The dropout?)Are the two jockey wheels aligned?If you stand behind the parked bike, in the lowest gear, close one eye and imagine a line strait up and down where the chain comes up off the two wheels. If it’s cocked in any way, that can lead to the ghost shifts. It can also be the jockey wheels aren’t lubed or aren’t the proper ones for your shift system. Are you certain that the rear cable is free of any possible crimps, (like under the bottom bracket?) Do you have a kick stand mounted? If so, look carefully at the cables adjacent to the kickstand and that the cables do NOT touch the kickstand or its bracket. It’s often overlooked. Another test- grab the rear bare shift cable and see if that shifts and overrides the shifters. (You may need to put your bike on a stationary trainer).  Last check- make certain you don’t have a modern 11-12 speed chain on the bike. It takes the older, wider chain on these wider spaced freewheels/cassettes. Good luck!(I wish I had a Platypus, 60, Ana Purple)JRWOn Mon, Jan 6, 2025 at 10:45 AM meti...@gmail.com  wrote:Your thoughts on a skipping/slipping/floating chain and gear, please.In late November 2024. I received my newly built up Platypus from C&L Cycles in Montreal. I love it beyond description. However, there’s one very frustrating issue that I can’t figure out and wonder what insight you friends might have about it.From the get-go, the gears have slipped. Yes, I’m using friction Silver Shifters, and I’ve spent a lot of time eliminating myself as the problem here. But I’ve ALWAYS used friction shifters on every bike (other than my Clem) and I’m not a klutz, and I’ve tried really really hard to be land these gear changes, but this problem just keeps happening. I’ve put probably 200 miles on the Platypus and I’ve not taken a single ride on it that this has not been a problem. The issue occurs on the rear 9-gear cassette and almost always in the highest 3 gears…especially when going uphill or cresting a hill, but not always. Sometimes the chain seems to simply float EVEN WHEN I’M NOT PEDALING, and then it lands wherever it wants without my touching the shifter.This is driving me nuts because I adore this bicycle and this problem is making me lose trust. It’s not safe to ride in the kind of traffic I ride.I’ve taken the bike to my local bike shop, and we’ve chang

Re: [RBW] Slipping/sliding/jumping/ghosting gears on a new Platypus

[Doug H.]

Liz,
I have been down the same path with Silver 2 shifters. I really wanted them 
to work for me but in the end I changed to Microshift. No more slipping.
Doug

On Friday, January 17, 2025 at 7:58:22 AM UTC-5 meti...@gmail.com wrote:

> Good question, Eric! We’re gonna try Microshifts that can be switched to 
> go with either way. I use similar friction/index shifters on my Atlantis 
> and always keep them switched to friction, the mode I prefer. 
>
> Sent with delight from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 17, 2025, at 7:39 AM, Eric Daume  wrote:
>
> Are you keeping with friction shifting, or going indexed?
>
>
> Eric
>
> On Friday, January 17, 2025, meti...@gmail.com  wrote:
>
>> Good Friday morning, friends. 
>>
>> I took a beautiful ride on my new Platy yesterday…yes, there is still 
>> salt and some ice on the roads and snow is everywhere, but temps were in 
>> the 20s and I decided to get the bike out anyway. I don’t want to be so 
>> persnickety about a bicycle that I can’t ride it. I’ll pamper it later on. 
>>
>> We initially put a new chain on it, but the gears still slipped. 
>>
>> Next, we replaced the cassette and also added the dab of blue Locktite 
>> everyone suggested to the D ring of the shifter, and the 30-minute ride 
>> following those changes proved to solve the shifting issue but turned up a 
>> new audible and palpable thumping when in one single gear. My hero 
>> mechanics filed down a nub on the new chain and the thumping disappeared. 
>>
>> I’m convinced my initial slipping/ghost-shifting problem has been 
>> solved…either by replacing the cassette or by the Locktite or the 
>> combination of those two.  
>>
>> Here’s a decision I  might question myself on later—my mechanics and I 
>> have  lost some confidence in these Silver shifters on my bike, y’all. I 
>> can’t help it. And I’m not speaking badly about the shifters or other 
>> bicycles or cyclists who find they work well…I’m speaking only of my bike 
>> and these shifter and me. 
>>
>> Each time the bike is on the stand, when the mechanics shift through the 
>> gears, even they have to WORK and fiddle to get the higher gears to settle 
>> into gear. Is that making sense? The shifters seem too stiff in those 
>> highest gears, and it takes too much finagling and kid-glove handling to 
>> get things to work right. I’m not into that kind of riding—I want to shift 
>> as I always shift…I’m a competent enough rider and I’ve been at this a long 
>> time and I know how to shift and I don’t want to effing think about being 
>> careful in the higher gears—so we’re replacing the shifters. I’ll be out of 
>> town for a week or two, and when I return, I should have new shifters. They 
>> might not work well either…I don’t know. But we’re gonna try it. 
>>
>> Liz, and that’s that,  in Cincinnati
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 14, 2025 at 6:36:52 PM UTC-5 John Williams wrote:
>>
>>> Happy New Year Liz!
>>> How frustrating for you!
>>>
>>> There a a few issues/questions:
>>> Are you riding a 1x or 2x chainring set up?
>>>
>>> Has the rear derailleur alignment been checked? (The dropout?)
>>>
>>> Are the two jockey wheels aligned?
>>> If you stand behind the parked bike, in the lowest gear, close one eye 
>>> and imagine a line strait up and down where the chain comes up off the two 
>>> wheels. If it’s cocked in any way, that can lead to the ghost shifts. It 
>>> can also be the jockey wheels aren’t lubed or aren’t the proper ones for 
>>> your shift system. 
>>>
>>> Are you certain that the rear cable is free of any possible crimps, 
>>> (like under the bottom bracket?) Do you have a kick stand mounted? If so, 
>>> look carefully at the cables adjacent to the kickstand and that the cables 
>>> do NOT touch the kickstand or its bracket. It’s often overlooked. 
>>>
>>> Another test- grab the rear bare shift cable and see if that shifts and 
>>> overrides the shifters. (You may need to put your bike on a stationary 
>>> trainer).  
>>>
>>> Last check- make certain you don’t have a modern 11-12 speed chain on 
>>> the bike. It takes the older, wider chain on these wider spaced 
>>> freewheels/cassettes. 
>>>
>>> Good luck!
>>> (I wish I had a Platypus, 60, Ana Purple)
>>>
>>> JRW
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, Jan 6, 2025 at 10:45 AM meti...@gmail.com  
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Your thoughts on a skipping/slipping/floating chain and gear, please.

 In late November 2024. I received my newly built up Platypus from C&L 
 Cycles in Montreal. I love it beyond description. However, there’s one 
 very 
 frustrating issue that I can’t figure out and wonder what insight you 
 friends might have about it.

 From the get-go, the gears have slipped. Yes, I’m using friction Silver 
 Shifters, and I’ve spent a lot of time eliminating myself as the problem 
 here. But I’ve ALWAYS used friction shifters on every bike (other than my 
 Clem) and I’m not a klutz, and I’ve tried really really hard to be land 
 these gear 

Re: [RBW] Slipping/sliding/jumping/ghosting gears on a new Platypus

[Michael Connors]

I read in the bike shop's description that they used brake housing for the 
shifters. The reason they can do that is because you can fiddle with the 
shifters as the cables compress or expand. If you change to indexed 
shifting be sure to change the housings.


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Re: [RBW] Slipping/sliding/jumping/ghosting gears on a new Platypus

[J J]

Liz, it sounds like you and your shop went through a comprehensive (and 
possibly costly) process of elimination. I'm sorry you've been so 
frustrated. As I mentioned in a previous message, I,  like Doug, have been 
through this process before. There was no sustainable middle space between 
the shifters being too loose that they kept slipping and being clamped down 
so tight that they were hard to shift comfortably.

I agree that this does not impugn the shifters themselves. They are great 
for lots and lots of people. I enjoy fiddling and mechanical tweaking, but 
I have a saturation point. I'd much rather be riding the bike than fiddling 
with it. There are other great options that "just work" for me and there's 
no shame in moving on.

Jim

On Friday, January 17, 2025 at 8:38:19 AM UTC-5 Doug H. wrote:

> Liz,
> I have been down the same path with Silver 2 shifters. I really wanted 
> them to work for me but in the end I changed to Microshift. No more 
> slipping.
> Doug
>
> On Friday, January 17, 2025 at 7:58:22 AM UTC-5 meti...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Good question, Eric! We’re gonna try Microshifts that can be switched to 
>> go with either way. I use similar friction/index shifters on my Atlantis 
>> and always keep them switched to friction, the mode I prefer. 
>>
>> Sent with delight from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jan 17, 2025, at 7:39 AM, Eric Daume  wrote:
>>
>> Are you keeping with friction shifting, or going indexed?
>>
>> Eric
>>
>> On Friday, January 17, 2025, meti...@gmail.com  wrote:
>>
>> Good Friday morning, friends. 
>>>
>>> I took a beautiful ride on my new Platy yesterday…yes, there is still 
>>> salt and some ice on the roads and snow is everywhere, but temps were in 
>>> the 20s and I decided to get the bike out anyway. I don’t want to be so 
>>> persnickety about a bicycle that I can’t ride it. I’ll pamper it later on. 
>>>
>>> We initially put a new chain on it, but the gears still slipped. 
>>>
>>> Next, we replaced the cassette and also added the dab of blue Locktite 
>>> everyone suggested to the D ring of the shifter, and the 30-minute ride 
>>> following those changes proved to solve the shifting issue but turned up a 
>>> new audible and palpable thumping when in one single gear. My hero 
>>> mechanics filed down a nub on the new chain and the thumping disappeared. 
>>>
>>> I’m convinced my initial slipping/ghost-shifting problem has been 
>>> solved…either by replacing the cassette or by the Locktite or the 
>>> combination of those two.  
>>>
>>> Here’s a decision I  might question myself on later—my mechanics and I 
>>> have  lost some confidence in these Silver shifters on my bike, y’all. I 
>>> can’t help it. And I’m not speaking badly about the shifters or other 
>>> bicycles or cyclists who find they work well…I’m speaking only of my bike 
>>> and these shifter and me. 
>>>
>>> Each time the bike is on the stand, when the mechanics shift through the 
>>> gears, even they have to WORK and fiddle to get the higher gears to settle 
>>> into gear. Is that making sense? The shifters seem too stiff in those 
>>> highest gears, and it takes too much finagling and kid-glove handling to 
>>> get things to work right. I’m not into that kind of riding—I want to shift 
>>> as I always shift…I’m a competent enough rider and I’ve been at this a long 
>>> time and I know how to shift and I don’t want to effing think about being 
>>> careful in the higher gears—so we’re replacing the shifters. I’ll be out of 
>>> town for a week or two, and when I return, I should have new shifters. They 
>>> might not work well either…I don’t know. But we’re gonna try it. 
>>>
>>> Liz, and that’s that,  in Cincinnati
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, January 14, 2025 at 6:36:52 PM UTC-5 John Williams wrote:
>>>
 Happy New Year Liz!
 How frustrating for you!

 There a a few issues/questions:
 Are you riding a 1x or 2x chainring set up?

 Has the rear derailleur alignment been checked? (The dropout?)

 Are the two jockey wheels aligned?
 If you stand behind the parked bike, in the lowest gear, close one eye 
 and imagine a line strait up and down where the chain comes up off the two 
 wheels. If it’s cocked in any way, that can lead to the ghost shifts. It 
 can also be the jockey wheels aren’t lubed or aren’t the proper ones for 
 your shift system. 

 Are you certain that the rear cable is free of any possible crimps, 
 (like under the bottom bracket?) Do you have a kick stand mounted? If so, 
 look carefully at the cables adjacent to the kickstand and that the cables 
 do NOT touch the kickstand or its bracket. It’s often overlooked. 

 Another test- grab the rear bare shift cable and see if that shifts and 
 overrides the shifters. (You may need to put your bike on a stationary 
 trainer).  

 Last check- make certain you don’t have a modern 11-12 speed chain on 
 the bike. It takes the older, wider chain

Re: [RBW] Slipping/sliding/jumping/ghosting gears on a new Platypus

[Eric Marth]

Hi Liz — I'm happy to hear your shifting issues are resolving! I would have 
been a little frustrated by the thumping new chain, glad that's fixed. 

When my chain was jumping I didn't have any problems with the Silver 1 
shifters slipping. I used the same shifters before and after my accident. 

Looking back at my notes it seems I couldn't tell by feel that the cassette 
lock ring was loose. And I didn't carefully inspect it before I removed and 
replaced it. So it's possible it was loose enough to cause problems but 
perhaps not evident under the wrench when it was removed. 

Bit of a tangent: I find Silver 1s and 2s work well for me. I haven't found 
them overly fussy or irritating to use. The fiddling you describe sounds 
like no fun and I think you're right to swap them out. Shifting should be 
somewhere between a brainless non-issue and fun. Maybe you got a bad batch?

I have had other issues with the Silvers, though. The d-ring wingnut comes 
loose but beeswax solves that for me. The plastic washers can crack. I have 
encountered corrosion before inside the shifter body, gumming up the 
internal ratchet and spring mechanisms with chalky powder. I was able to 
disassemble and clean them but unfortunately the head of the shifter cable 
welded to the shifter body via corrosion so the lever was trash. I hope 
that corrosion problems are rare and unique to me. I worry my shed is 
accelerating corrosion with weird moisture problems. 

Glad you're back on the road. Let us know when you get the Microshift units 
installed! 

Eric  

On Friday, January 17, 2025 at 10:45:46 AM UTC-5 J J wrote:

> Liz, it sounds like you and your shop went through a comprehensive (and 
> possibly costly) process of elimination. I'm sorry you've been so 
> frustrated. As I mentioned in a previous message, I,  like Doug, have been 
> through this process before. There was no sustainable middle space between 
> the shifters being too loose that they kept slipping and being clamped down 
> so tight that they were hard to shift comfortably.
>
> I agree that this does not impugn the shifters themselves. They are great 
> for lots and lots of people. I enjoy fiddling and mechanical tweaking, but 
> I have a saturation point. I'd much rather be riding the bike than fiddling 
> with it. There are other great options that "just work" for me and there's 
> no shame in moving on.
>
> Jim
>
> On Friday, January 17, 2025 at 8:38:19 AM UTC-5 Doug H. wrote:
>
>> Liz,
>> I have been down the same path with Silver 2 shifters. I really wanted 
>> them to work for me but in the end I changed to Microshift. No more 
>> slipping.
>> Doug
>>
>> On Friday, January 17, 2025 at 7:58:22 AM UTC-5 meti...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Good question, Eric! We’re gonna try Microshifts that can be switched to 
>>> go with either way. I use similar friction/index shifters on my Atlantis 
>>> and always keep them switched to friction, the mode I prefer. 
>>>
>>> Sent with delight from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Jan 17, 2025, at 7:39 AM, Eric Daume  wrote:
>>>
>>> Are you keeping with friction shifting, or going indexed?
>>>
>>> Eric
>>>
>>> On Friday, January 17, 2025, meti...@gmail.com  
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Good Friday morning, friends. 

 I took a beautiful ride on my new Platy yesterday…yes, there is still 
 salt and some ice on the roads and snow is everywhere, but temps were in 
 the 20s and I decided to get the bike out anyway. I don’t want to be so 
 persnickety about a bicycle that I can’t ride it. I’ll pamper it later on. 

 We initially put a new chain on it, but the gears still slipped. 

 Next, we replaced the cassette and also added the dab of blue Locktite 
 everyone suggested to the D ring of the shifter, and the 30-minute ride 
 following those changes proved to solve the shifting issue but turned up a 
 new audible and palpable thumping when in one single gear. My hero 
 mechanics filed down a nub on the new chain and the thumping disappeared. 

 I’m convinced my initial slipping/ghost-shifting problem has been 
 solved…either by replacing the cassette or by the Locktite or the 
 combination of those two.  

 Here’s a decision I  might question myself on later—my mechanics and I 
 have  lost some confidence in these Silver shifters on my bike, y’all. I 
 can’t help it. And I’m not speaking badly about the shifters or other 
 bicycles or cyclists who find they work well…I’m speaking only of my bike 
 and these shifter and me. 

 Each time the bike is on the stand, when the mechanics shift through 
 the gears, even they have to WORK and fiddle to get the higher gears to 
 settle into gear. Is that making sense? The shifters seem too stiff in 
 those highest gears, and it takes too much finagling and kid-glove 
 handling 
 to get things to work right. I’m not into that kind of riding—I want to 
 shift as I always shift…I’m a competent e

Re: [RBW] Tire/Wheel Strategy - 4 Seasons

[Michael Morrissey]

I think you'd really like some studded snow tires. I've had the Nokian 
Hakkapalitas and Schwalbe Winter Marathons and both were great. Do you 
think you could ride where you want to go on the Fargo with studded snow 
tires? 

Otherwise, have you considered a beater bike? I rode my beater 26" vintage 
mountain bike in the winter with studded Nokian tires and it was like an 
insurance policy that guaranteed I would be able to go everywhere I wanted 
to go. 

On Friday, January 17, 2025 at 7:42:12 AM UTC-5 Richard Rose wrote:

> Honestly & from my own experience, find a used fatbike. I no longer have 
> one for the reason you site - 15 rides. But, it’s still the best answer. In 
> those conditions the fatbike is so much fun & does no damage to the trail. 
> Just a thought.
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 17, 2025, at 6:54 AM, Jay  wrote:
>
> I'm looking for ideas to expand and optimize my riding with one of my two 
> bikes.
>
>
> This isn't for my Roadini - I have that equation solved.  I have two 
> wheelsets, one with 43 GKSS for all-road rides, including accessing the two 
> rail trails a little further out of town, and some gravel cuts/trails to 
> avoid busier roads, while adding the joy that comes from riding these cuts. 
>  And one with 30mm tires on Dura-Ace rims for fast (as I can go) road rides 
> with a friend.
>
> My other bike is a Salsa Fargo.  Going into my third year with it, and it 
> has been great for my local, non-technical trails.  I ride that around 2x a 
> week on these trails, where I'm 80% unpaved and 20% paved (paths, 
> sidewalks, roads).  I have the stock wheels and tires (2.2" Terevail 
> Sparwoods, and a wheelset I had build but a local wheel guy, running Hope 
> hubs, Stans Arch rims, tubeless with Sim Works Super Yummy 2.2" tires. 
>  That wheelset was on the bike exclusively, up until winter started here 
> outside Toronto, and it was awesome for three seasons.
>
> *Looking for ideas on*: up until we had snow that stuck (last three 
> weeks), I didn't have a problem with my setup.  I took the good wheels off 
> the Fargo, and put on the stock ones with faster-rolling Sparwoods and used 
> it on the often-wet winter roads, where there may be a little bit of 
> snow/slush (no ice).  With fenders, this has made for a good winter bike, 
> when the roads are relatively clear of snow/ice.  *What I'm missing 
> though is perhaps a studded trail tire so I can ride those same local 
> trails I do in the summer, in the winter*.  I don't want to ride 
> exclusively on snowy/slushy roads, just on the trails that are .5km away. 
>  I can add a dedicated wheel with something like Schwalbe Ice Spikers, but 
> that's expensive, for maybe 10-15 rides where I can't ride on the roads. 
>  For now I'm on the trainer on those days.
>
> Welcome your ideas!  Thanks
>
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/830aa1f9-7d6f-4088-9e46-2405e5cdce88n%40googlegroups.com
>  
> 
> .
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Possible to Shorten Brake Cable/Housing

[Glen]

Brilliant idea on the clamp, I've had one of these cheap '3rd hand' tools 
in my box for years. Makes this job so much easier. 

Slip a washer or dime into the leading edge and I usually get the toe-in 
dialed too. 

Regarding housing cutting, even with a pair of cable cutters I usually just 
use my Dremel and then a pick to open it up. 

 
On Friday, January 17, 2025 at 3:28:10 AM UTC-7 Jay wrote:

> Thanks for those tips for next time!
>
> Jason
>
> On Jan 16, 2025, at 11:27 PM, Oliver Moss  wrote:
>
> You can also back out the barrel adjuster half, or a little more, before 
> clamping the brakes to the rim and tightening the pinch bolt. This allows 
> you to turn it in and dial in the right distance from the rim. 
>
>
>
> On Thursday, January 16, 2025 at 10:38:31 PM UTC-5 Michael Connors wrote:
>
>> I squeeze the calipers against the rim using a clamp. Then pull the cable 
>> with my fingers, not too tight. When the clamp is released the pads move to 
>> approximately the right location. If it needs further adjustment mark the 
>> desired spot on the cable using a sharpie or tape and move it.
>> [image: IMG_0677.JPG]
>>
>>
>> -- 
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> Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> To unsubscribe from this topic, visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/1hJNdHFf70c/unsubscribe
> .
> To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to 
> rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/3cea590a-4f3a-4990-b460-241608af58b5n%40googlegroups.com
>  
> 
> .
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Slipping/sliding/jumping/ghosting gears on a new Platypus

[Garth]

Before you totally give up on the shifters, you could try shaving some 
rosin between the inside of the outer cap and the outer side of the inner 
plastic washer. Rosin adds grip, it's used by string instrumentalists and 
baseball pitchers. It comes commonly in a solid clear amber form, and it's 
a hard chunk that you can shave off into a powder. It's made from pine tree 
sap, which if you've ever touched it is very sticky ! 

I read about it here, as vintage Campy shifters are also prone to slip. 
https://cycling-obsession.com/vintage-campagnolo-super-record-friction-shift-levers-review/

The Sprint shift levers which the Silver models copy, have always been best 
as DT shifters, from my experience. Suntour thumbies hold gears notably 
better because the entire innards are a larger diameter. 

Try some rosin before ditching them ! 

On Friday, January 17, 2025 at 12:14:55 PM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hi Liz — I'm happy to hear your shifting issues are resolving! I would 
> have been a little frustrated by the thumping new chain, glad that's fixed. 
>
> When my chain was jumping I didn't have any problems with the Silver 1 
> shifters slipping. I used the same shifters before and after my accident. 
>
> Looking back at my notes it seems I couldn't tell by feel that the 
> cassette lock ring was loose. And I didn't carefully inspect it before I 
> removed and replaced it. So it's possible it was loose enough to cause 
> problems but perhaps not evident under the wrench when it was removed. 
>
> Bit of a tangent: I find Silver 1s and 2s work well for me. I haven't 
> found them overly fussy or irritating to use. The fiddling you describe 
> sounds like no fun and I think you're right to swap them out. Shifting 
> should be somewhere between a brainless non-issue and fun. Maybe you got a 
> bad batch?
>
> I have had other issues with the Silvers, though. The d-ring wingnut comes 
> loose but beeswax solves that for me. The plastic washers can crack. I have 
> encountered corrosion before inside the shifter body, gumming up the 
> internal ratchet and spring mechanisms with chalky powder. I was able to 
> disassemble and clean them but unfortunately the head of the shifter cable 
> welded to the shifter body via corrosion so the lever was trash. I hope 
> that corrosion problems are rare and unique to me. I worry my shed is 
> accelerating corrosion with weird moisture problems. 
>
> Glad you're back on the road. Let us know when you get the Microshift 
> units installed! 
>
> Eric  
>
> On Friday, January 17, 2025 at 10:45:46 AM UTC-5 J J wrote:
>
>> Liz, it sounds like you and your shop went through a comprehensive (and 
>> possibly costly) process of elimination. I'm sorry you've been so 
>> frustrated. As I mentioned in a previous message, I,  like Doug, have been 
>> through this process before. There was no sustainable middle space between 
>> the shifters being too loose that they kept slipping and being clamped down 
>> so tight that they were hard to shift comfortably.
>>
>> I agree that this does not impugn the shifters themselves. They are great 
>> for lots and lots of people. I enjoy fiddling and mechanical tweaking, but 
>> I have a saturation point. I'd much rather be riding the bike than fiddling 
>> with it. There are other great options that "just work" for me and there's 
>> no shame in moving on.
>>
>> Jim
>>
>> On Friday, January 17, 2025 at 8:38:19 AM UTC-5 Doug H. wrote:
>>
>>> Liz,
>>> I have been down the same path with Silver 2 shifters. I really wanted 
>>> them to work for me but in the end I changed to Microshift. No more 
>>> slipping.
>>> Doug
>>>
>>> On Friday, January 17, 2025 at 7:58:22 AM UTC-5 meti...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Good question, Eric! We’re gonna try Microshifts that can be switched 
 to go with either way. I use similar friction/index shifters on my 
 Atlantis 
 and always keep them switched to friction, the mode I prefer. 

 Sent with delight from my iPhone

 On Jan 17, 2025, at 7:39 AM, Eric Daume  wrote:

 Are you keeping with friction shifting, or going indexed?

 Eric

 On Friday, January 17, 2025, meti...@gmail.com  
 wrote:

 Good Friday morning, friends. 
>
> I took a beautiful ride on my new Platy yesterday…yes, there is still 
> salt and some ice on the roads and snow is everywhere, but temps were in 
> the 20s and I decided to get the bike out anyway. I don’t want to be so 
> persnickety about a bicycle that I can’t ride it. I’ll pamper it later 
> on. 
>
> We initially put a new chain on it, but the gears still slipped. 
>
> Next, we replaced the cassette and also added the dab of blue Locktite 
> everyone suggested to the D ring of the shifter, and the 30-minute ride 
> following those changes proved to solve the shifting issue but turned up 
> a 
> new audible and palpable thumping when in one single gear. My hero 
>

Re: [RBW] Possible to Shorten Brake Cable/Housing

[Jason Noonievut]

Thanks for those tips for next time!JasonOn Jan 16, 2025, at 11:27 PM, Oliver Moss  wrote:You can also back out the barrel adjuster half, or a little more, before clamping the brakes to the rim and tightening the pinch bolt. This allows you to turn it in and dial in the right distance from the rim. On Thursday, January 16, 2025 at 10:38:31 PM UTC-5 Michael Connors wrote:I squeeze the calipers against the rim using a clamp. Then pull the cable with my fingers, not too tight. When the clamp is released the pads move to approximately the right location. If it needs further adjustment mark the desired spot on the cable using a sharpie or tape and move it.




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