Re: [RBW] Re: Nine Speed Friction & Ghost Shifting Reconsidered.

2012-08-27 Thread Stonehog
Those '88 XT thumbies are the business!

Mobile Brian Hanson

On Aug 26, 2012, at 5:03 PM, Eric Platt  wrote:

> I've been using friction shifting with nine speed on one bike.  With caveats, 
> it's upright bars and a ca. 1988 Shimano XT thumb shifter.  With that shifter 
> 9 speeds doesn't seem to be an issue.  It's a 12-36 paired with a 39t front 
> and using a regular Deore long cage derailleur.
>  
> Have not had an problems since setting it up.  Also don't seem to experience 
> ghost shifting, but maybe because I'm not that strong of a rider.
>  
> Then again, as this is on a non-Rivendell bike, my observation is off topic
>  
> Eric Platt
> St. Paul, MN
> 
> On Sat, Aug 25, 2012 at 8:06 PM, Eric Daume  wrote:
> This dearth of 8 speed cassettes had me momentarily worried, until I saw it 
> wasn't so.  For instance, here's a range of 12-21 thru 13-26:
> 
> http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=12017&category=42
> 
> in addition to all the usual 11-something.
> 
> Which is comforting, because 8 speed is the sweet spot for me.
> 
> Eric Daume
> Dublin, OH
> 
> On Sat, Aug 25, 2012 at 5:34 PM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> 
> 
> The "commercial fate" of 7 speed is the chrome cassettes are now
> unavailable, but the black ones are all still available.  Not so pretty,
> but functionally just as good.  That's not the case with 8: in the past
> 2 or 3 years virtually all the 8 speed combinations have gone.  Only
> 11-x are still in available, and for me 11 only makes sense if you have
> a 20" wheel.
> 
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[RBW] Re: What's your Rivendell story?

2012-08-27 Thread Evan
"Comfort. Function. Fun."  Sounds like an unofficial Riv motto.


On Sunday, August 26, 2012 9:53:57 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:
>
> Here's mine:
>>  
>>
> * 2009:* Got a modern "10-speed". Compact frame, aluminum/composite 
> material, and spent the next two years trying to go as fast as possible. 
> Why? Because I liked going fast, and thought it would be good to be able to 
> keep up with others, if needed. As if... I wasn't a racer, and had no 
> intentions of racing. But for some reason every ride had to be a time trial 
> with me.
>  
> This became very stressful, and riding wasn't fun anymore. I would 
> actually wake up in the morning feeling scared, because I knew I had a 
> lonely "training" ride ahead of me each day, and never knew what might 
> happen bad-wise (crash?, stranded?).
>  
> *2011:* Didn't wanna ride anymore. It became a chore to be feared. Only 
> rode to escort my wife to work on her short commutes. Without her, I never 
> would got on the bike that year. I started to wonder if those massive tubes 
> on CF bikes were really any more aerodynamic that those thin tubed, steel 
> 10-speeds of old. I started, for some reason, to like the traditional 
> diamond frame with curved forks look better than modern road bikes.
>  
> *2012:* March. Decided, that *this year, I was going to ride for fun only*. 
> Take it slow, and enjoy the beauty of God's creation, and abandon the 
> warped thinking I had in years prior about going fast. Suddenly, the 
> pressure was off, and riding was fun again. But this year, I started having 
> problems with my neck and shoulders -  the bars seemed way too low on my 
> race bike. Soreness. Hard to look up and around while riding. 
> If I remember correctly, I wanted to know was anyone making frames with 
> that old "10-speed" look to them. So elegant, and I liked lugs, too. I got 
> to the RBW site, and everything they were talking about was right up my 
> alley with the riding I wanted to do. It just got better the more I read. 
> The high bars, the frame geometry. Everything designed for comfort and fun, 
> and function. I had to have one. But I couldn't swing new, so I got the 
> used Bleriot in July. Now I can cruise in comfort and look up and all 
> around with the high bars. I love commuting, and I am probably riding more 
> this year than any other - and having so much fun.
> I hope to support RBW with a new bike purchase one day. I hope they keep 
> doing what they are doing.
>  
>

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Re: [RBW] RAAM on a Rivendell.

2012-08-27 Thread Robert Zeidler
...and for good reason. 

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 27, 2012, at 12:26 AM, lungimsam  wrote:

> If I was young again, and an ultra-cyclist, I'd want to do RAAM on a 
> Rivendell.
>  
> Maybe RBW would sponsor me with a special frame called the "RAAMbouillet" or 
> something, just so their frame could carve its way through the sea of carbon 
> fiber. High bars, longboard fenders, for the wet weather. I'd keep it light.
>  
> My crew would be well stocked and they would have orders to hand out 
> complimentary neck braces, along the way, to all the cats with 
> low-handlebarred, carbon fiber frames.
>  
> Just being silly. But I would really love to see someone on an RBW bike in 
> RAAM. That would be great. I bet RAAM hasn't seen lugged steel for 20 years.
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Re: [RBW] Re: Should I "Just Ride", or am I already?

2012-08-27 Thread Bruce Herbitter
Buying the book is also a nice way to support a guy who has done and
continues to do some things that we benefit from.

On Sun, Aug 26, 2012 at 10:55 PM, Manuel Acosta <
manueljohnaco...@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Agreed the book is a good way of having a physical copy of grants writing.
> Always a good read. Fits in a jersey pocket(pretty sure that was done on
> purpose) so if you do like it you can give it out to the next cyclist you
> see.
>
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[RBW] Re: DT shifter issues

2012-08-27 Thread Mike
Hey William, thanks so much for pointing out that a shorter bolt holding 
the shifter to the braze-on might take care of the slippage. I hadn't 
ridden my randonneuring bike since finishing the Cascade back in June. 
Yesterday before heading out to Larch Mtn I filed the bolt down put it back 
on my bike and headed out for a ride where I was able to enjoy standing up 
and riding in the big ring with the shifter slipping. 

--mike--who is looking forward to going back to DT shifters on his Hilsen.

On Monday, July 2, 2012 11:22:42 AM UTC-7, William wrote:
>
> Mike
>
> This is a very common issue with several very simple fixes.  I apologize 
> in advance for a long post
>
> As you know, there's a spring in the front derailer that wants to pull the 
> chain down to the small ring.  The only thing stopping that from happening 
> is the friction in the shiftlever.  If there's more static friction in the 
> shiftlever, it'll keep the front derailer in place.  If the force in the 
> derailer spring is stronger, it'll win and pull the chain over.   When you 
> pedal out of the saddle, the frame flexes some and makes the cable a little 
> tighter a little looser in phase with your pedalling. If the friction in 
> the lever is just barely strong enough to hold the derailer in place, this 
> part can make the derailer walk down to where it's constantly rubbing and 
> requires you to pull the shifter again to take up the slack.  
>
> This problem is more common these days because modern front derailers have 
> ridiculously strong return springs because of all the mashers who insist on 
> being able to downshift to a smaller chainring while hammering out of the 
> saddle.  Furthermore, the lever arm on the ft derailer linkage is much 
> shorter today than in older derailers, making the front derailer 'stronger' 
> because of an increased mechanical advantage.  This 'enhancement' developed 
> to get brifters to work.  So the fixes can include:
>
> 1.  If you have a 'modern' front derailer, consider swapping it with an 
> older design.  One with a lighter spring and/or longer lever arm
> 2.  Get more friction out of your friction shifter.  If you tighten up the 
> d-ring all the way, you should no longer even be able to move your shifter 
> in the downshift direction.  If you can't do that, then you aren't really 
> tightening the friction part of your shifter.  You've merely bottomed out 
> on the bolt and you are tightening against that.  You need a shorter bolt, 
> or a slightly thicker friction washer inside.  
> 3.  Another modern front derailer 'enhancement' is a SUPER narrow cage. 
>  One of the consequences of that is you have to have your limit screws set 
> really precisely, and you have to slam the derailer against the limit screw 
> when you are in the big ring and a smallish cog.  In this situation, the 
> tug-of-war is no longer the front derailer spring against the shifter 
> friction.  It's an immovable object (the limit screw) against the friction 
> in your shifter.  The limit screw always wins, and you'll always be able to 
> get a tiny bit of slack in the cable.  To check if this is what you are 
> experiencing, deliberately back off the upper limit screw a lot.  Like a 
> full 360 degree rotation.  You'll have to be careful not to overshift when 
> you go into the big ring.  When in the big ring, see if you can make the 
> rubbing happen.  You might not be able to.  If you find that backing off 
> the limit screw 'solves' the problem, then you'll be left trying to find a 
> balance where there's a combination of limit screw setting + technique that 
> keeps you from overshifting and avoids this phenomenon.  Another surprising 
> fix for this particular corner case is flexier shift cables.  People forget 
> how springy shift cables used to be.  These days, they are super stiff in 
> tension to make indexing work.  A springier cable can take the stress 
> cycles associated with pedaling without moving the shifter.  It's hard to 
> find springy shift cables, these days, though.  
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Should I "Just Ride", or am I already?

2012-08-27 Thread jinxed
On Monday, August 27, 2012 7:56:35 AM UTC-6, Fullylugged wrote:
>
> Buying the book is also a nice way to support a guy who has done and 
> continues to do some things that we benefit from.
>
>
Yep...thats why I mentioned purchasing two copies. I want it/Grant/RBW to 
do well and keep the good stuff coming. Maybe if I give a copy to someone 
not-in-the-know...they might enjoy the refreshing point of view to cycling. 

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Re: [RBW] Bosco or Albatross?

2012-08-27 Thread Matthew J
Boscos sure are visually a good fit on Mixte/Step Through bikes:
 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/retrotec-inglis-cycles/7851282556/in/photostream

On Sunday, August 26, 2012 10:28:54 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

> Thanks, Thomas -- I can see that the stem is considerably raised with 
> the Albatrosses and that the Bosco's come back closer to the saddle. 
> Have seared the two images on my memory for tomorrow's investigation. 
>
> Garth: No can do, alas, since it's her dime and I don't even want to 
> think of explaining why she ought to spend $130+ for two bars (inc 
> shipping). Me, I like drops and whatever else I try, always come back 
> to drops. 
>
> On Sun, Aug 26, 2012 at 7:35 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean 
> > wrote: 
> > http://db.tt/2vi8YLQG - Bosco 
> > http://db.tt/wfV6ttGl - Albatross 
> > 
> > Yours, 
> > Thomas Lynn Skean 
> > who apologizes for his photographic phailure 
> > 
> > -- 
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>
>
>
> -- 
> "Believe nothing until it has been officially denied." 
>-- Claude Cockburn 
>
> - 
> Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA 
> For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW 
> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html 
> - 
>

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[RBW] Re: What's your Rivendell story?

2012-08-27 Thread Bruce
*1984*: Bought a too-small Trek 620 touring bike. Rode it for 20 years, 
becoming increasingly annoyed with stiff neck and sore shoulders.

*Mid-2000s:* Now in my 40s, I decided to do something about it. Added 
clamp-on aero bars sticking straight up like antlers. Absurd, but 
effective. But I couldn't reach the down tube shifters. Bought bar-end 
shifters and discovered that the Trek didn't have braze-ons for cable stops 
on the down tube. Googled "clamp-on cable stops" and voila! Riv was the 
only place selling them. I ordered them and started reading the Riv 
literature. It made sense to me.

 *2007: *After continually modifying the Trek with Riv-supplied parts (B17, 
Alba, Moustache, multiple stems, Rich-built 700C wheels, fenders, etc), I 
received permission to buy a Rivendell as a birthday present from my wife, 
so I ordered one of the last Rambouillets (a blue display model). Ten 
thousand miles later, it continues to be my favorite bike. (The Trek, with 
a stem raiser, trekking bars, fenders, racks, baskets, dynamo hub, lights, 
is my commuter and tourer.)

On Tuesday, August 21, 2012 11:06:10 AM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:
>
> So how did you originally find out about them, and why/where/how did you 
> get your first Rivendell bike?
>

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[RBW] Opinions on Paul Racers or side pulls

2012-08-27 Thread blakcloud
I am starting to think about buying my dream build which will be a A. Homer 
Hilsen. tentatively these are the components I would like.

650b wheel set built on Phil Wood hubs.
Ultegra derailleurs and cassette
cranks, undecided but not Shimano, they're ugly, Maybe White Industries 
double.
White Industries pedals with Bruce Gordon half clips
Nitto lugged quill stem, hand polished to mirror finish
Nitto lugged seat post?
Brooks saddle or a Specialzed Avatar which I have and like.

The question is around which brakes to use. The long reach side pulls are 
probably adequate and are certainly cheaper but there is something about 
the high polished Paul Racers that look good on Rivendell's. My question to 
those who own the Paul's "Would you buy them again?" Of course we are 
talking about center post mounts as I am not going to go custom frame here. 
I have never been a fan of center pull brakes, the ones that I have tried 
all sucked but they haven't been as well built as the Paul's. 

I would like to hope they are great brakes and easy to set up because you 
can't beat side pulls for easy set up. So those who own Paul's or have used 
them, do you like them?

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[RBW] Re: What's your Rivendell story?

2012-08-27 Thread Eric Peterson
Back in the '90s Grant was a product manager for Bridgestone.
I bought a red RB-1 when Bridgestone was going out of business in the US - 
still riding this with over 30,000 miles on it, and, amazingly, the 
original rear hub and spokes (the rim has been replaced 4 or 5 times). No 
broken spokes ever with that wheel.
The RB-1 was my initial rando bike when I started riding brevets in 
2005.The RB-1 is not fender-friendly so after the 2005 season, with PBP 
coming up, I had my sights set on a bike more suited to randonneuring. 
Peter White was closing out the Rambouillets, so I bought a frame and fork 
(blue) and built up a bike which I rode from 2006 to 2008 (including 
completing PBP and a fleche) until a car hit me (actually hit the bike) and 
totalled the frame. Later that year an orange Ramboulliet appeared on the 
BobishBikesFS list and Craiglist, and it was in Seattle in my 
sister-in-laws neighborhood, so I bought that and kept it there so I can 
ride it with SIR when I am out there. I made some upgrades and bike is one 
I can literally ride all day and night, the bike just disappears under me. 
it rides even better than the blue one. Must be the color. 
Speaking of orange - my most recent purchase was a Velo-Orange frame which 
I built up, and it rides as well as my Rambouillet.

Eric Peterson
Naperville, IL

On Tuesday, August 21, 2012 10:06:10 AM UTC-5, lungimsam wrote:
>
> So how did you originally find out about them, and why/where/how did you 
> get your first Rivendell bike?
>

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[RBW] WTB - Quickbeam 56cm

2012-08-27 Thread AD
I know it's a long shot but looking to buy an Orange Quickbeam 56cm. 
 Already have an SO but wanted to have a lighter weight dedicated fixed 
gear.  Please respond off list

Thanks!

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[RBW] sackville shopsack

2012-08-27 Thread john
Any thoughts on the Sackville shopsack? Either medium size or large? I was 
considering using this as a grocery getter for my mini front rack (sans 
basket).
Now, I use a "selle an atomica" tote bag. I crisscross the straps, loop 
them around my noodle handlebars, and the load is suprisingly stable. But 
the Selle Anatomica bag is almost played out, and they don't have more. I 
need a new shopping tote. No, I don't want a basket. 

Any thoughts on the strap length of the medium? the large? Would the straps 
be long enough to hook around drop bars? Is the large way too large? the 
medium big enough for grocery runs?

Thanks.

J.

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[RBW] Large Saddlesack Support--Mark's in the Back or R-14 Top Rack?

2012-08-27 Thread Christopher Chen
I figure it's time to increase my carrying capacity, and I'm going Large.

The R-14 is currently out of stock ,and so I'm looking at putting a Mark's 
rack in the rear. Does anyone have any advice for what combo works best? 
Will the large saddlesack be too squirrelly on the Mark's rack?

Thanks!

cc

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[RBW] Re: Rivish Beater in NYC

2012-08-27 Thread Peter F
Hudson Urban Bicycles (HUB Bikes) on Charles Street in the West Village 
downtown has a reasonable collection of used bicycles for sale. They 
specialize in city bikes and are probably the most Riv-ish shop in 
Manhattan. I can't speak to their prices. It's the West Village so prices 
are probably a bit higher than elsewhere, but the used bikes they sell 
there look to be in decent shape but still reasonably non-descript.

http://hudsonurbanbicycles.com/info/

They have rentals too, but I'm not sure about tandems. 

Peter
NYC

On Saturday, August 25, 2012 12:51:31 AM UTC-4, Corwin wrote:
>
> Hi -
>
> This post is probably rather late to be effective in the near term - but 
> hopefully will eventually help achieve our final objective.
>
> Last spring, my daughter graduated from high school and was admitted to 
> Barnard College. Barnard is a small liberal arts college affiliated with 
> Columbia University. Naturally, she would like to make use of a bike to get 
> around New York City. Given that every bike in NYC parked outside for any 
> measurable period is stolen sooner or later, we are loathe to ship her nice 
> bike to NYC - just to have it disappear. The disappearance is all the more 
> likely given my daughter's habit of parking the bike outdoors in the 
> weather much of the time.
>
> Hence we would like to find a beater. I take it Craigslist is the usual 
> place one finds these kinds of things. Are there any other places in NYC 
> (or nearby) we might also find such a beater? Extra points if the beater 
> has Rivish accoutrements such as fenders and fattish tires. She would 
> probably be happier with something other than a fixie.
>
> As a side note, given that this is move-in weekend and we are in NYC - 
> does anyone have a good recommendation for a tandem rental in Manhattan?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
>
>
> Corwin 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Baggins Boxy bag with Nitto F15 rack, more Baggins bags and miscellaneous parts coming soon

2012-08-27 Thread Andrew Drummond
The rest of the photos are up:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bikesandtools/sets/72157631196902318/

The boxy bag, 28.6 XTR derailleur, and (maybe) the lugged stem are spoken 
for, everything else is up for grabs.

thanks,
Andrew

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[RBW] Re: Rivish Beater in NYC

2012-08-27 Thread Mike B
   I would give a big thumbs up to getting one of those giant chains from 
kryptonite (one version is called the "New York").  She can leave it 
wrapped around where ever she plans to keep her bike at night and use a 
smaller U-Lock while traveling during the day.   Only problem is the lock 
will probably cost as much as a "beater" bike.  Also everything around here 
costs an arm and a leg.   Maybe better finding a beater where you live and 
sending it to her?

On Saturday, August 25, 2012 12:51:31 AM UTC-4, Corwin wrote:
>
> Hi -
>
> This post is probably rather late to be effective in the near term - but 
> hopefully will eventually help achieve our final objective.
>
> Last spring, my daughter graduated from high school and was admitted to 
> Barnard College. Barnard is a small liberal arts college affiliated with 
> Columbia University. Naturally, she would like to make use of a bike to get 
> around New York City. Given that every bike in NYC parked outside for any 
> measurable period is stolen sooner or later, we are loathe to ship her nice 
> bike to NYC - just to have it disappear. The disappearance is all the more 
> likely given my daughter's habit of parking the bike outdoors in the 
> weather much of the time.
>
> Hence we would like to find a beater. I take it Craigslist is the usual 
> place one finds these kinds of things. Are there any other places in NYC 
> (or nearby) we might also find such a beater? Extra points if the beater 
> has Rivish accoutrements such as fenders and fattish tires. She would 
> probably be happier with something other than a fixie.
>
> As a side note, given that this is move-in weekend and we are in NYC - 
> does anyone have a good recommendation for a tandem rental in Manhattan?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
>
>
> Corwin 
>

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[RBW] Re: Nitto Randoneur bars. Have tyou used them?

2012-08-27 Thread Hoffsta
I have a 42cm Nitto B135 that I picked up at a garage sale. I don't like it 
at all but that doesn't have to do with the design as much as the size. The 
42cm spec is at the widest point of the flared drops. This means that the 
flats are extremely narrow and not at all suitable to me. I'd like to try 
other Rando bars but I need them much wider.

Sean
Eugene, OR

On Friday, August 24, 2012 3:52:38 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:
>
> Was wondering how they feel different from regular drops.
>  
> Looks like the drops are very wide, and the hoods are slanted compared to 
> a regular drop bar.
>  
> 1. What is the reason for all the massive contours?
> 2. Do you like yours?
> 3. How do you size them for yourself - from the hooks, c-c, or the ends, 
> c-c?
>

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Re: [RBW] Opinions on Paul Racers or side pulls

2012-08-27 Thread Seth Vidal
On Sun, Aug 26, 2012 at 5:33 PM, blakcloud  wrote:
> I am starting to think about buying my dream build which will be a A. Homer
> Hilsen. tentatively these are the components I would like.
>
> 650b wheel set built on Phil Wood hubs.
> Ultegra derailleurs and cassette
> cranks, undecided but not Shimano, they're ugly, Maybe White Industries
> double.
> White Industries pedals with Bruce Gordon half clips
> Nitto lugged quill stem, hand polished to mirror finish
> Nitto lugged seat post?
> Brooks saddle or a Specialzed Avatar which I have and like.
>
> The question is around which brakes to use. The long reach side pulls are
> probably adequate and are certainly cheaper but there is something about the
> high polished Paul Racers that look good on Rivendell's. My question to
> those who own the Paul's "Would you buy them again?" Of course we are
> talking about center post mounts as I am not going to go custom frame here.
> I have never been a fan of center pull brakes, the ones that I have tried
> all sucked but they haven't been as well built as the Paul's.
>
> I would like to hope they are great brakes and easy to set up because you
> can't beat side pulls for easy set up. So those who own Paul's or have used
> them, do you like them?
>

I have one of each. The rom has the sidepulls, the ahh has the paul
center pulls and I really rather like them.

They setup pretty easily and they have GREAT stopping power.

Having said that - the sidepulls stop well, too. :)

I don't think you'll have trouble with either.

-sv

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RE: [RBW] Opinions on Paul Racers or side pulls

2012-08-27 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J
I have hi polish Racers (center post mount) on my Hilsen, and love the look AND 
the stopping power.  Here: 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/7691777296/in/set-72157627914355388

They're great.  And I really like the folks at Paul Components. 

-Original Message-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Seth Vidal
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 11:19 AM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Opinions on Paul Racers or side pulls

On Sun, Aug 26, 2012 at 5:33 PM, blakcloud  wrote:
> I am starting to think about buying my dream build which will be a A. 
> Homer Hilsen. tentatively these are the components I would like.
>
> 650b wheel set built on Phil Wood hubs.
> Ultegra derailleurs and cassette
> cranks, undecided but not Shimano, they're ugly, Maybe White 
> Industries double.
> White Industries pedals with Bruce Gordon half clips Nitto lugged 
> quill stem, hand polished to mirror finish Nitto lugged seat post?
> Brooks saddle or a Specialzed Avatar which I have and like.
>
> The question is around which brakes to use. The long reach side pulls 
> are probably adequate and are certainly cheaper but there is something 
> about the high polished Paul Racers that look good on Rivendell's. My 
> question to those who own the Paul's "Would you buy them again?" Of 
> course we are talking about center post mounts as I am not going to go custom 
> frame here.
> I have never been a fan of center pull brakes, the ones that I have 
> tried all sucked but they haven't been as well built as the Paul's.
>
> I would like to hope they are great brakes and easy to set up because 
> you can't beat side pulls for easy set up. So those who own Paul's or 
> have used them, do you like them?
>

I have one of each. The rom has the sidepulls, the ahh has the paul center 
pulls and I really rather like them.

They setup pretty easily and they have GREAT stopping power.

Having said that - the sidepulls stop well, too. :)

I don't think you'll have trouble with either.

-sv

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unless otherwise expressly indicated, any federal tax advice contained in this 
message was not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for the 
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or applicable state or local tax law provisions or (ii) promoting, marketing or 
recommending to another party any tax-related matters addressed herein.



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Re: [RBW] Bosco or Albatross?

2012-08-27 Thread Jim Mather
I don't remember if you said how tall your friend is, but consider width
when buying the bars. My wife and daughter are about 5'4", and they prefer
the Dove to the Albatross.

jim m
wc ca



On Sun, Aug 26, 2012 at 8:28 PM, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:

> Thanks, Thomas -- I can see that the stem is considerably raised with
> the Albatrosses and that the Bosco's come back closer to the saddle.
> Have seared the two images on my memory for tomorrow's investigation.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Opinions on Paul Racers or side pulls

2012-08-27 Thread Patrick in VT
On Sunday, August 26, 2012 5:33:49 PM UTC-4, blakcloud wrote:

>
> I would like to hope they are great brakes and easy to set up because you 
> can't beat side pulls for easy set up. So those who own Paul's or have used 
> them, do you like them?
>

I have the braze-on version of the Paul racers.  Best brakes I've used, 
although I'm not a huge fan of how they look.  You might inquire about any 
differences between the braze-on vs. center-mount version - I haven't seen 
much chatter about that although conventional wisdom probably says that the 
braze-on version are a little more powerful.  Either way, I think 
side-pulls are plenty good too, look better and are easier to set up.  
can't go wrong.

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Re: [RBW] Opinions on Paul Racers or side pulls

2012-08-27 Thread William
+1 for the comment that the people at Paul are super nice.  

On Monday, August 27, 2012 8:22:27 AM UTC-7, Pudge wrote:
>
> I have hi polish Racers (center post mount) on my Hilsen, and love the 
> look AND the stopping power.  Here: 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/7691777296/in/set-72157627914355388 
>
> They're great.  And I really like the folks at Paul Components. 
>
> -Original Message- 
> From: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com  [mailto:
> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com ] On Behalf Of Seth Vidal 
> Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 11:19 AM 
> To: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com  
> Subject: Re: [RBW] Opinions on Paul Racers or side pulls 
>
> On Sun, Aug 26, 2012 at 5:33 PM, blakcloud > 
> wrote: 
> > I am starting to think about buying my dream build which will be a A. 
> > Homer Hilsen. tentatively these are the components I would like. 
> > 
> > 650b wheel set built on Phil Wood hubs. 
> > Ultegra derailleurs and cassette 
> > cranks, undecided but not Shimano, they're ugly, Maybe White 
> > Industries double. 
> > White Industries pedals with Bruce Gordon half clips Nitto lugged 
> > quill stem, hand polished to mirror finish Nitto lugged seat post? 
> > Brooks saddle or a Specialzed Avatar which I have and like. 
> > 
> > The question is around which brakes to use. The long reach side pulls 
> > are probably adequate and are certainly cheaper but there is something 
> > about the high polished Paul Racers that look good on Rivendell's. My 
> > question to those who own the Paul's "Would you buy them again?" Of 
> > course we are talking about center post mounts as I am not going to go 
> custom frame here. 
> > I have never been a fan of center pull brakes, the ones that I have 
> > tried all sucked but they haven't been as well built as the Paul's. 
> > 
> > I would like to hope they are great brakes and easy to set up because 
> > you can't beat side pulls for easy set up. So those who own Paul's or 
> > have used them, do you like them? 
> > 
>
> I have one of each. The rom has the sidepulls, the ahh has the paul center 
> pulls and I really rather like them. 
>
> They setup pretty easily and they have GREAT stopping power. 
>
> Having said that - the sidepulls stop well, too. :) 
>
> I don't think you'll have trouble with either. 
>
> -sv 
>
> -- 
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>
>
> --
>  
>
>  
>
> To ensure compliance with Treasury Department regulations, we advise you 
> that, unless otherwise expressly indicated, any federal tax advice 
> contained in this message was not intended or written to be used, and 
> cannot be used, for the purpose of (i) avoiding tax-related penalties under 
> the Internal Revenue Code or applicable state or local tax law provisions 
> or (ii) promoting, marketing or recommending to another party any 
> tax-related matters addressed herein. 
>  
>  
>
> This email (and any attachments thereto) is intended only for use by the 
> addressee(s) named herein and may contain legally privileged and/or 
> confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient of this 
> email, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or 
> copying of this email (and any attachments thereto) is strictly prohibited. 
> If you receive this email in error please immediately notify me at (212) 
> 735-3000 and permanently delete the original email (and any copy of any 
> email) and any printout thereof. 
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[RBW] Re: Opinions on Paul Racers or side pulls

2012-08-27 Thread Jeff
I've got post-mounted Paul Racers on my custom which is nearly two years 
old.  They're got great stopping power.  I'd definitely buy them again.  
But like the MAFAC Racers they're based on, I've found they can get a bit 
squealy and need toeing in from time to time.  Minor problem.

One thing I wish I could change: wheel size.  Wish I'd gone 650B.  Then I'd 
be running Grand Bois Hetres.

As far as cranks, I've got 2006 Campy triples on my Rivendell and my Heron, 
50/40/30.  My next bike I'll probably spring for a Rene Herse double 
46/30.  

I've also got the lugged quill stem and absolutely love it.  I found the 
lugged post (the wayback) gave me more setback than I needed on my custom, 
but I ended up putting it on my Hetchins to slacken the 73 degree seat tube.

I bought those White Industry pedals and they are gorgeous, but I haven't 
used them as my randonneuring miles are all "clipped in."

You're on your way to a beautiful ride!

Jeff



On Sunday, August 26, 2012 4:33:49 PM UTC-5, blakcloud wrote:
>
> I am starting to think about buying my dream build which will be a A. 
> Homer Hilsen. tentatively these are the components I would like.
>
> 650b wheel set built on Phil Wood hubs.
> Ultegra derailleurs and cassette
> cranks, undecided but not Shimano, they're ugly, Maybe White Industries 
> double.
> White Industries pedals with Bruce Gordon half clips
> Nitto lugged quill stem, hand polished to mirror finish
> Nitto lugged seat post?
> Brooks saddle or a Specialzed Avatar which I have and like.
>
> The question is around which brakes to use. The long reach side pulls are 
> probably adequate and are certainly cheaper but there is something about 
> the high polished Paul Racers that look good on Rivendell's. My question to 
> those who own the Paul's "Would you buy them again?" Of course we are 
> talking about center post mounts as I am not going to go custom frame here. 
> I have never been a fan of center pull brakes, the ones that I have tried 
> all sucked but they haven't been as well built as the Paul's. 
>
> I would like to hope they are great brakes and easy to set up because you 
> can't beat side pulls for easy set up. So those who own Paul's or have used 
> them, do you like them?
>

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[RBW] Re: DT shifter issues

2012-08-27 Thread Andy Smitty Schmidt
Glad to hear you got rid of the slippage, Mike. 

On Monday, August 27, 2012 7:21:35 AM UTC-7, Mike wrote:
>
> Hey William, thanks so much for pointing out that a shorter bolt holding 
> the shifter to the braze-on might take care of the slippage. I hadn't 
> ridden my randonneuring bike since finishing the Cascade back in June. 
> Yesterday before heading out to Larch Mtn I filed the bolt down put it back 
> on my bike and headed out for a ride where I was able to enjoy standing up 
> and riding in the big ring with the shifter slipping. 
>
> --mike--who is looking forward to going back to DT shifters on his Hilsen.
>
> On Monday, July 2, 2012 11:22:42 AM UTC-7, William wrote:
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> This is a very common issue with several very simple fixes.  I apologize 
>> in advance for a long post
>>
>> As you know, there's a spring in the front derailer that wants to pull 
>> the chain down to the small ring.  The only thing stopping that from 
>> happening is the friction in the shiftlever.  If there's more static 
>> friction in the shiftlever, it'll keep the front derailer in place.  If the 
>> force in the derailer spring is stronger, it'll win and pull the chain 
>> over.   When you pedal out of the saddle, the frame flexes some and makes 
>> the cable a little tighter a little looser in phase with your pedalling. If 
>> the friction in the lever is just barely strong enough to hold the derailer 
>> in place, this part can make the derailer walk down to where it's 
>> constantly rubbing and requires you to pull the shifter again to take up 
>> the slack.  
>>
>> This problem is more common these days because modern front derailers 
>> have ridiculously strong return springs because of all the mashers who 
>> insist on being able to downshift to a smaller chainring while hammering 
>> out of the saddle.  Furthermore, the lever arm on the ft derailer linkage 
>> is much shorter today than in older derailers, making the front derailer 
>> 'stronger' because of an increased mechanical advantage.  This 
>> 'enhancement' developed to get brifters to work.  So the fixes can include:
>>
>> 1.  If you have a 'modern' front derailer, consider swapping it with an 
>> older design.  One with a lighter spring and/or longer lever arm
>> 2.  Get more friction out of your friction shifter.  If you tighten up 
>> the d-ring all the way, you should no longer even be able to move your 
>> shifter in the downshift direction.  If you can't do that, then you aren't 
>> really tightening the friction part of your shifter.  You've merely 
>> bottomed out on the bolt and you are tightening against that.  You need a 
>> shorter bolt, or a slightly thicker friction washer inside.  
>> 3.  Another modern front derailer 'enhancement' is a SUPER narrow cage. 
>>  One of the consequences of that is you have to have your limit screws set 
>> really precisely, and you have to slam the derailer against the limit screw 
>> when you are in the big ring and a smallish cog.  In this situation, the 
>> tug-of-war is no longer the front derailer spring against the shifter 
>> friction.  It's an immovable object (the limit screw) against the friction 
>> in your shifter.  The limit screw always wins, and you'll always be able to 
>> get a tiny bit of slack in the cable.  To check if this is what you are 
>> experiencing, deliberately back off the upper limit screw a lot.  Like a 
>> full 360 degree rotation.  You'll have to be careful not to overshift when 
>> you go into the big ring.  When in the big ring, see if you can make the 
>> rubbing happen.  You might not be able to.  If you find that backing off 
>> the limit screw 'solves' the problem, then you'll be left trying to find a 
>> balance where there's a combination of limit screw setting + technique that 
>> keeps you from overshifting and avoids this phenomenon.  Another surprising 
>> fix for this particular corner case is flexier shift cables.  People forget 
>> how springy shift cables used to be.  These days, they are super stiff in 
>> tension to make indexing work.  A springier cable can take the stress 
>> cycles associated with pedaling without moving the shifter.  It's hard to 
>> find springy shift cables, these days, though.  
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] RAAM on a Rivendell.

2012-08-27 Thread Jeff
While I have no intention of ever riding RAAM, I'm proud to say that I 
RAAM-qualified on a racked and fendered Rivendell last year and I'm gong to 
do it again next month at the Texas Time Trials.
http://www.tt24tt.com/

Of course covering 500 miles in 48 hours or less (that's the qualifer) is a 
world away from doing RAAM.  I'd suggest PBP in 2015.  Lots of Rivendells 
over there and plenty of older folks!  The best 87 hours and 10 minutes of 
my life.

Jeff

On Monday, August 27, 2012 5:31:47 AM UTC-5, z-man wrote:
>
> ...and for good reason. 
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Aug 27, 2012, at 12:26 AM, lungimsam > 
> wrote:
>
> If I was young again, and an ultra-cyclist, I'd want to do RAAM on a 
> Rivendell.
>  
> Maybe RBW would sponsor me with a special frame called the "RAAMbouillet" 
> or something, just so their frame could carve its way through the sea of 
> carbon fiber. High bars, longboard fenders, for the wet weather. I'd keep 
> it light.
>  
> My crew would be well stocked and they would have orders to hand out 
> complimentary neck braces, along the way, to all the cats with 
> low-handlebarred, carbon fiber frames.
>  
> Just being silly. But I would really love to see someone on an RBW bike in 
> RAAM. That would be great. I bet RAAM hasn't seen lugged steel for 20 years.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Should I "Just Ride", or am I already?

2012-08-27 Thread Andy Smitty Schmidt
Or maybe they'll just think you're crazy, jinxed. :-)

I've been dropping Riv-ish tid bits on my bike-commuting bro-in-law for a 
couple years. He's even ridden my AHH and a friend's loaner Riv-ish Schwinn 
High Sierra. He seems responsive in conversation and had nothing but high 
praise for Homer and the Schwinn, but in the end his first criteria remains 
that a bike has to be sub-18lbs. He talks about getting a more comfortable 
bike with all the Riv-ish tid bits and fit but he can't bring himself to 
buy a "heavy" bike. 

--Andy



On Monday, August 27, 2012 7:34:49 AM UTC-7, jinxed wrote:
>
> On Monday, August 27, 2012 7:56:35 AM UTC-6, Fullylugged wrote:
>>
>> Buying the book is also a nice way to support a guy who has done and 
>> continues to do some things that we benefit from.
>>
>>
> Yep...thats why I mentioned purchasing two copies. I want it/Grant/RBW to 
> do well and keep the good stuff coming. Maybe if I give a copy to someone 
> not-in-the-know...they might enjoy the refreshing point of view to cycling. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Large Saddlesack Support--Mark's in the Back or R-14 Top Rack?

2012-08-27 Thread Dan McNamara
I don't think that Mark's vs R-14 will make a difference as a saddlesack 
support. If you ever want to put a large trunksack or a large basket in the 
rear then you want the R-14. 

Dan

Marin

On Aug 25, 2012, at 12:18 PM, Christopher Chen  wrote:

> I figure it's time to increase my carrying capacity, and I'm going Large.
> 
> The R-14 is currently out of stock ,and so I'm looking at putting a Mark's 
> rack in the rear. Does anyone have any advice for what combo works best? Will 
> the large saddlesack be too squirrelly on the Mark's rack?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> cc
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[RBW] Re: Large Saddlesack Support--Mark's in the Back or R-14 Top Rack?

2012-08-27 Thread William
There's a slot cut in the leather bottom of the Large Saddlesack.  That 
slot is the right depth and width to fit the R-14 tombstone perfectly.  The 
tombstone on the Mark's rack is a lot narrower and a bit taller.  It'll 
work, but it's just not perfect.  

The Mark's rack is fantastic, and if you own one you'll find a number of 
things to use it for.  The R-14 is the 'more correct' choice for a 
Saddlesack Large.  Get a Mark's now and get an R-14 later!  :)

On Saturday, August 25, 2012 12:18:29 PM UTC-7, Christopher Chen wrote:
>
> I figure it's time to increase my carrying capacity, and I'm going Large.
>
> The R-14 is currently out of stock ,and so I'm looking at putting a Mark's 
> rack in the rear. Does anyone have any advice for what combo works best? 
> Will the large saddlesack be too squirrelly on the Mark's rack?
>
> Thanks!
>
> cc
>

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[RBW] Re: Lance Armstrong Stripped of Tour de France Titles

2012-08-27 Thread dougP

On Thursday, August 23, 2012 10:47:22 PM UTC-7, Jim Cloud wrote: 
>
> Just picked this up from internet traffic: 
>
>
> http://news.yahoo.com/lance-armstrong-stripped-tour-france-titles-internet-shock-233032763.html
>  
>
> Jim Cloud 
> Tucson, AZ 
>

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Re: [RBW] Opinions on Paul Racers or side pulls

2012-08-27 Thread David Yu Greenblatt
I don't think you can polish a Nitto lugged quill stem to a mirror chrome
finish, can you? It is "dull-bright" nickel plated cro-mo steel.

David G in SF


On Sun, Aug 26, 2012 at 2:33 PM, blakcloud  wrote:

> I am starting to think about buying my dream build which will be a A.
> Homer Hilsen. tentatively these are the components I would like.
>
> 650b wheel set built on Phil Wood hubs.
> Ultegra derailleurs and cassette
> cranks, undecided but not Shimano, they're ugly, Maybe White Industries
> double.
> White Industries pedals with Bruce Gordon half clips
> Nitto lugged quill stem, hand polished to mirror finish
> Nitto lugged seat post?
> Brooks saddle or a Specialzed Avatar which I have and like.
>
> The question is around which brakes to use. The long reach side pulls are
> probably adequate and are certainly cheaper but there is something about
> the high polished Paul Racers that look good on Rivendell's. My question to
> those who own the Paul's "Would you buy them again?" Of course we are
> talking about center post mounts as I am not going to go custom frame here.
> I have never been a fan of center pull brakes, the ones that I have tried
> all sucked but they haven't been as well built as the Paul's.
>
> I would like to hope they are great brakes and easy to set up because you
> can't beat side pulls for easy set up. So those who own Paul's or have used
> them, do you like them?
>
> --

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[RBW] Re: How Saluki got its name, and is that a real dog on the badge?

2012-08-27 Thread John Price
Marty, I should be able to get you a hi res photo of the first Saluki
headbadge (can provide the pewter and bronze too if you need).

So, since Jim pointed out my Saluki above (thanks for the compliments
Jim), and since the question was asked...

The Saluki on the Saluki headbadge is my dear Saluki.   Her name is
Esprit (we also have her niece Elan) and I've had her since she was a
pup - nearly 12 years now.

Her full name is Celeres Belle Esprit.   Jon Grant and I did the
graphics package for the Salukis.

In a previous post on the Rivendell graphics I mentioned I was VERY
biased in choosing the Saluki graphics as my favorites.  Now you know
why.

John

On Aug 24, 5:02 pm, Marty  wrote:
> > If anyone here has a nice hi-res full frontal headshot of that first
> > badge, let me know. It's one of the few I have not added to the poster
> > collection. Also need the very first cast pewter Rivendell badge. As soon
> > as the new-bike badge is revealed I'll be updating the poster, and might
> > was well add Saluki #1 to the series.
>
> Marty

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[RBW] Re: Idea for real RivCustom head badges. What would yours be?

2012-08-27 Thread John Price
For the frameset I made I had Jen Green make a sterling silver
headbadge to my design.  Cost back then was $150.  Not sure what she
charges now but she does GREAT work - I'd HIGHLY recommend her.

On Aug 24, 12:44 pm, Philip Williamson 
wrote:
> Ouch. Let me know before you critique the writings of that Bike Tinker guy.
>
> Philipwww.biketinker.com
>
>
>
> On Friday, August 24, 2012 3:44:06 AM UTC-7, z-man wrote:
>
> > It figures Kostman would do this. His "Classic Cyclist" articles were
> > laughable in their smugness, and head-swelling ego attitude. I kept waiting
> > for the section where he would say the classic cyclist has "just the right
> > haircut" as part of looking just right.
>
> > Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Aug 23, 2012, at 1:29 PM, James Warren 
> > >
> > wrote:
>
> > Chris Kostman does this. His Roadeo at the bottom of the page has one of
> > his own custom headbadges that are also shown at this page sort of near the
> > bottom. Check it out:
>
> >http://www.xo-1.org/search?updated-min=2010-01-01T00:00:00-08:00&upda...
>
> > -Original Message-
> > From: lungimsam
> > Sent: Aug 23, 2012 9:57 AM
> > To: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com 
> > Subject: [RBW] Idea for real RivCustom head badges. What would yours be?
>
> > You get a Riv Custom - you get a head badge with pic of a loved-one or pet
> > on it.
> > Move the regular badge to the seat tube - no label, just badge. It is a
> > Custom, after all. And that would class it up.
>
> > Have "Rivendell   _Name of loved one/pet__" on the seat tube.
>
> > What would yours be?
>
> > Freddie Hoffman could get a "Ruthie" model, with his Mom's pic on the
> > badge.
>
> > --
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[RBW] Re: Opinions on Paul Racers or side pulls

2012-08-27 Thread lungimsam

>
> I have Paul Racers.
>
 

> I am not a bike mechanic, and I don't know how tricky side-pulls are, but 
> for me, there are too many adjustment options on the Racers, and I have a 
> tendency to just keep throwing things out of adjustment the more I mess 
> with the brakes.
>  
>
1. You can adjust them by centering them and then tightening the brake bolt.
2. You can adjust the way the straddle cable hanger sits, which moves the 
calipers when you do that.
3. You can adjust the spring tension of each arm.
4. You can adjust the pads.
 
They can be tricky for a novice to get aligned correctly, based on my 
experience, which is non with brakes, except these.
 
I am under the impression that side pulls are easier, but don't know that 
for a fact.
 
The people at Paiul seem to be friendly. I think they should have a better 
explanation on the instructions on how to adjust their brakes, and use the 
spring tension adjustment.
 
 

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[RBW] Re: Lance Armstrong Stripped of Tour de France Titles

2012-08-27 Thread dougP
I really like V-brakes on my Atlantis, with over 800 touring miles
this summer, after using Tektro 720 cantis for a few years.  The
ultimate stopping power is comparable BUT the Vs requiring far less
force at the lever.  On long downhills, the cantis leave my forearms
numb, especially with a load.  The only fussy bit about the Vs is the
pad/rim clearance but it's no big deal.

Based on the title, I almost skipped this thread.  Thankfully we'll
always have brakes to discuss...and 2TT...and luggage...and racks...

dougP

On Aug 25, 12:11 am, Tom Harrop  wrote:
> I'm with you Brewster, I just switched from cantis to Vs and I'm never
> going back! All with the stock Shimano pads that came with the V-brakes,
> too. My problems were most likely caused by my inability to set the cantis
> up properly, but the squeal and shudder is gone and I have 100× better
> stopping power. NB this is on a 68 cm Bombadil so the enormous head tube
> could also have been part of the problem.

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[RBW] Re: Large Saddlesack Support--Mark's in the Back or R-14 Top Rack?

2012-08-27 Thread Scot Brooks
What about an R-15 as a third option? Those seem pretty great for the money.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Nitto Randoneur bars. Have tyou used them?

2012-08-27 Thread Bruce Herbitter
I have a set on my Road Std and like them. You can lean straight down and
clear the tops because of the flare. I have DT shifters on this bike. Don't
know if the flare will affect someone who uses bar ends.

On Fri, Aug 24, 2012 at 9:06 PM, Hoffsta  wrote:

> I have a 42cm Nitto B135 that I picked up at a garage sale. I don't like
> it at all but that doesn't have to do with the design as much as the size.
> The 42cm spec is at the widest point of the flared drops. This means that
> the flats are extremely narrow and not at all suitable to me. I'd like to
> try other Rando bars but I need them much wider.
>
> Sean
> Eugene, OR
>
> On Friday, August 24, 2012 3:52:38 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:
>>
>> Was wondering how they feel different from regular drops.
>>
>> Looks like the drops are very wide, and the hoods are slanted compared to
>> a regular drop bar.
>>
>> 1. What is the reason for all the massive contours?
>> 2. Do you like yours?
>> 3. How do you size them for yourself - from the hooks, c-c, or the ends,
>> c-c?
>>
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Re: [RBW] Opinions on Paul Racers or side pulls

2012-08-27 Thread Bruce Herbitter
Having both Phil Woof and White Industries hubs, both with Velocity wheels,
I recommend the White Industries. They seem freer rolling to me. Both look
good.

On Sun, Aug 26, 2012 at 4:33 PM, blakcloud  wrote:

> I am starting to think about buying my dream build which will be a A.
> Homer Hilsen. tentatively these are the components I would like.
>
> 650b wheel set built on Phil Wood hubs.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Large Saddlesack Support--Mark's in the Back or R-14 Top Rack?

2012-08-27 Thread Thomas Lynn Skean
+1 for the R-15.

I'd be somewhat concerned about squirreliness with the Mark's/SaddleSack-Large 
combo if the SS-L is heavily loaded. It's worth a try, though, I've used the 
SS-L with a Mark's&Platrack combo and it is of course super stable.

But most of the time I've used the SS-L with my R-15. Even really heavily 
loaded it has posed no issues for me. With normal loads I don't even anchor the 
bottom. The "tombstone" and top straps are enough. With a heavy and uneven or 
unstable load I anchor the rear two lash slots (rear of the bike).

The R-15 is a great rack! Also great with the TourSacks.

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

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[RBW] Re: Large Saddlesack Support--Mark's in the Back or R-14 Top Rack?

2012-08-27 Thread Thomas Lynn Skean
R-15 URL

http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=146_240&products_id=671

FYI,
Thomas Lynn Skean

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[RBW] sackville shopsack

2012-08-27 Thread Thomas Lynn Skean
ShopSack is not designed to be used without a basket. Personally I can't see 
how to make it work satisfactorily without one.

With the corresponding Wald basket:

The medium is not quite big enough for my normal shopping. For smaller hauls 
it's perfect, though. The large, however, *could* push the Mini's carrying 
capacity if the bag is loaded down. But it does work well. In either case, 
normal zip ties (4-6) work well to anchor the basket to the rack.

For non-basket shopping I like panniers, the SaddleSack Large and even the 
SlickerSack.

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

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[RBW] Re: Opinions on Paul Racers or side pulls

2012-08-27 Thread Michael Hechmer
Sounds like a great set of choices.   I've been very happy with  White Ind 
Hubs, which I have on both my Ram & our tandem, and with the White  VBC 
crank, which I have on the Ram.  Our tandem has a DaVinci Crank, which is 
actually made by White and offers a good crank/spider/ring set up at a 
price well below TA or even Compass.

As for brakes, I love side pulls but have no experience with the extra long 
Silver version.  I have racerMs on the Ram & posted racers on the tandem, 
both excellent. Good modulation and good stopping power.  There is a 
learning curve on set up, but they seem to stay aligned very well & once 
you get a feel for readjustment, it's pretty simple to reinstall them.  I 
owe my life to a set of Paul's Canti brakes, so I'm definitely biased. 
 Also I have become very partial to levers with a built in quick release- 
Cane Creek, Tektro, Campy.  It makes working with center pull or canti 
brakes a lot simpler.  The Cane Creek / Tektro especially mate well with 
Paul's brakes.

Michael

On Sunday, August 26, 2012 5:33:49 PM UTC-4, blakcloud wrote:
>
> I am starting to think about buying my dream build which will be a A. 
> Homer Hilsen. tentatively these are the components I would like.
>
> 650b wheel set built on Phil Wood hubs.
> Ultegra derailleurs and cassette
> cranks, undecided but not Shimano, they're ugly, Maybe White Industries 
> double.
> White Industries pedals with Bruce Gordon half clips
> Nitto lugged quill stem, hand polished to mirror finish
> Nitto lugged seat post?
> Brooks saddle or a Specialzed Avatar which I have and like.
>
> The question is around which brakes to use. The long reach side pulls are 
> probably adequate and are certainly cheaper but there is something about 
> the high polished Paul Racers that look good on Rivendell's. My question to 
> those who own the Paul's "Would you buy them again?" Of course we are 
> talking about center post mounts as I am not going to go custom frame here. 
> I have never been a fan of center pull brakes, the ones that I have tried 
> all sucked but they haven't been as well built as the Paul's. 
>
> I would like to hope they are great brakes and easy to set up because you 
> can't beat side pulls for easy set up. So those who own Paul's or have used 
> them, do you like them?
>

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[RBW] V brakes vs cantis (Was: Lance Armstrong Stripped of Tour de France Title)

2012-08-27 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Vs are very nice but I found the IRC wide profile cantis that Riv
installed on my former Sam Hill to be just as powerful with no more
lever pressure required, and they modulated noticeably better -- not
that the modulation issue is a huge issue for me; just that the IRCs
may well have been the nicest feeling hand brakes I've used. Since
I've never been able to set up cantis and drop levers and get them to
work right, I can't say what makes the difference; given that the old,
wide-profile XTs on the Trike also worked very nicely (not as nicely
as the IRCs, though), perhaps it is simply a wide profile thing. Oh,
nope: the Mafac cantis on the Herse -- both the shorter armed regulars
and the wider armed tandems, were useless dogs, even with modern aero
lever, decent housing stop hardware and housing and salmon pads. Beats
me.

Just brought the Novara Fusion home; Tektro mechanical disks. *Very*
nice -- better than the BB7s on the Fargo -- tho' the Tektros of
course are pulled with tourist bar levers, not drop levers. Still,
smoother, grippier, easier to modulate. Wonder what the difference is
if it's not the levers?

On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 12:28 PM, dougP  wrote:
> I really like V-brakes on my Atlantis, with over 800 touring miles
> this summer, after using Tektro 720 cantis for a few years.  The
> ultimate stopping power is comparable BUT the Vs requiring far less
> force at the lever.  On long downhills, the cantis leave my forearms
> numb, especially with a load.  The only fussy bit about the Vs is the
> pad/rim clearance but it's no big deal.
>
> Based on the title, I almost skipped this thread.  Thankfully we'll
> always have brakes to discuss...and 2TT...and luggage...and racks...
>
> dougP
>
> On Aug 25, 12:11 am, Tom Harrop  wrote:
>> I'm with you Brewster, I just switched from cantis to Vs and I'm never
>> going back! All with the stock Shimano pads that came with the V-brakes,
>> too. My problems were most likely caused by my inability to set the cantis
>> up properly, but the squeal and shudder is gone and I have 100× better
>> stopping power. NB this is on a 68 cm Bombadil so the enormous head tube
>> could also have been part of the problem.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Should I "Just Ride", or am I already?

2012-08-27 Thread Brewster Fong

On Monday, August 27, 2012 10:44:02 AM UTC-7, Andy Smitty Schmidt wrote: 
>
> Or maybe they'll just think you're crazy, jinxed. :-) 
>
> I've been dropping Riv-ish tid bits on my bike-commuting bro-in-law for a 
> couple years. He's even ridden my AHH and a friend's loaner Riv-ish Schwinn 
> High Sierra. He seems responsive in conversation and had nothing but high 
> praise for Homer and the Schwinn, but in the end his first criteria remains 
> that a bike has to be sub-18lbs. He talks about getting a more comfortable 
> bike with all the Riv-ish tid bits and fit but he can't bring himself to 
> buy a "heavy" bike. 
>
 
I don't get it, do you have to ride a "heavy" lugged steel bike that is 
built with fenders, racks and panniers to make a bike "Riv-ish?"  
 
My bikes are carbon and ti and I make them "Riv-ish" by doing alot of what 
Grant prescribes:
 
1. higher bars - my bars are at or a bit above the saddle height
2. saddle height - both of my bikes have a little bit more than a "fist 
full of seatpost" showing
3. tires - I run "fatter" tires than most of my friends. Instead of 
700x20/22/23 pumped up to 115-120psi; I ride a 700x25 tire pumped up to 80 
psi. I get plenty of comfort with, at least for me, no perceptible loss of 
"performance." 
4. wider saddle - I love Avocet O2 saddles because they are wider than the 
average "ass-hatchet," opps, I mean bike saddle that mean for a guy 
weighing in at 140lb. This means more comfort for my fat butt!
5. lower gearing - I have compact cranks iwth low gearing (48/33 and 48/34) 
for years because its not only good on my knees, but allow me to climb up 
the steep stuff. Grant's been advocating this for years. Now, almost all my 
buddies have gone to "compact" cranks and some have even gone to, gasp, 
triples
6. fenders - when I can fit it, depends on the carbon fork, I use Crud MK2 
fenders. They're pretty minimal, especially when compared to others, and a 
bit flimsy, but guess what, they work! The key is figuring out whether you 
have clearance under the fork - especially a carbon fork.
 
Anyways, my carbon bike weighs in at about 17lb; the ti bike weighs a bit 
more at about 18lb. Yes, there are plenty of things on my bikes that G 
would looked down upon - ergo levers, carbon frame/fork. Still, I've taken 
what I think works for me and apply them to my bikes to make them work. You 
may want to aim your bro-in-law into that direction, who know he may end up 
with a Riv custom one of these daysGood Luck!

>
> --Andy
>
>
>
> On Monday, August 27, 2012 7:34:49 AM UTC-7, jinxed wrote: 
>>
>> On Monday, August 27, 2012 7:56:35 AM UTC-6, Fullylugged wrote: 
>>>
>>> Buying the book is also a nice way to support a guy who has done and 
>>> continues to do some things that we benefit from.
>>>
>>>
>> Yep...thats why I mentioned purchasing two copies. I want it/Grant/RBW to 
>> do well and keep the good stuff coming. Maybe if I give a copy to someone 
>> not-in-the-know...they might enjoy the refreshing point of view to cycling. 
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Should I "Just Ride", or am I already?

2012-08-27 Thread Peter Morgano
Not be banal but Rivendell bikes are lugged steel bikes. I dont think a CF
bike with 25c tires is really "Rivish" at all, I mean how far are we going
to strech a made up term anyway? Not hating on that kind of bike at all,
rode one I have up at the parents house over the weekend and while it was
really fun it would not be my choice for longer rides and comfort.  I an
world where I had all the money I wanted to spend on bikes I would have a
calfee and a riv custom, oh and a trike, and a Tandem, and a folder, and a
fixie, and a full suspension mtb. But alas I only have a few bikes and cant
personally limit myself to CF that isnt comfy/practical for all day riding
over city streets.

On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 4:51 PM, Brewster Fong  wrote:

>
> On Monday, August 27, 2012 10:44:02 AM UTC-7, Andy Smitty Schmidt wrote:
>>
>> Or maybe they'll just think you're crazy, jinxed. :-)
>>
>> I've been dropping Riv-ish tid bits on my bike-commuting bro-in-law for a
>> couple years. He's even ridden my AHH and a friend's loaner Riv-ish Schwinn
>> High Sierra. He seems responsive in conversation and had nothing but high
>> praise for Homer and the Schwinn, but in the end his first criteria remains
>> that a bike has to be sub-18lbs. He talks about getting a more comfortable
>> bike with all the Riv-ish tid bits and fit but he can't bring himself to
>> buy a "heavy" bike.
>>
>
> I don't get it, do you have to ride a "heavy" lugged steel bike that is
> built with fenders, racks and panniers to make a bike "Riv-ish?"
>
> My bikes are carbon and ti and I make them "Riv-ish" by doing alot of what
> Grant prescribes:
>
> 1. higher bars - my bars are at or a bit above the saddle height
> 2. saddle height - both of my bikes have a little bit more than a "fist
> full of seatpost" showing
> 3. tires - I run "fatter" tires than most of my friends. Instead of
> 700x20/22/23 pumped up to 115-120psi; I ride a 700x25 tire pumped up to 80
> psi. I get plenty of comfort with, at least for me, no perceptible loss of
> "performance."
> 4. wider saddle - I love Avocet O2 saddles because they are wider than the
> average "ass-hatchet," opps, I mean bike saddle that mean for a guy
> weighing in at 140lb. This means more comfort for my fat butt!
> 5. lower gearing - I have compact cranks iwth low gearing (48/33 and
> 48/34) for years because its not only good on my knees, but allow me to
> climb up the steep stuff. Grant's been advocating this for years. Now,
> almost all my buddies have gone to "compact" cranks and some have even gone
> to, gasp, triples
> 6. fenders - when I can fit it, depends on the carbon fork, I use Crud MK2
> fenders. They're pretty minimal, especially when compared to others, and a
> bit flimsy, but guess what, they work! The key is figuring out whether you
> have clearance under the fork - especially a carbon fork.
>
> Anyways, my carbon bike weighs in at about 17lb; the ti bike weighs a bit
> more at about 18lb. Yes, there are plenty of things on my bikes that G
> would looked down upon - ergo levers, carbon frame/fork. Still, I've taken
> what I think works for me and apply them to my bikes to make them work. You
> may want to aim your bro-in-law into that direction, who know he may end up
> with a Riv custom one of these daysGood Luck!
>
>>
>> --Andy
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, August 27, 2012 7:34:49 AM UTC-7, jinxed wrote:
>>>
>>> On Monday, August 27, 2012 7:56:35 AM UTC-6, Fullylugged wrote:

 Buying the book is also a nice way to support a guy who has done and
 continues to do some things that we benefit from.


>>> Yep...thats why I mentioned purchasing two copies. I want it/Grant/RBW
>>> to do well and keep the good stuff coming. Maybe if I give a copy to
>>> someone not-in-the-know...they might enjoy the refreshing point of view to
>>> cycling.
>>>
>>  --
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Re: [RBW] Re: Should I "Just Ride", or am I already?

2012-08-27 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Brewster: we demand photos. I want to see 17/18 lb bikes set up a la Riv.

Segwaying on to the weight issue: nobody is going to convince me that
a sub 20 lb bike with light wheels and light, supple tires can't do
things that a 35 lb bike with 47 mm Schwalbe Marathons won't. This
past weekend I enjoyed my usual mini-minor-minimal "epic" rides among
Rio Rancho, NM's hills with one special 1 mile climb; Sat using the 18
lb gofast with 23 mm 650c Michelin Pro Race 3s, and Sun using the '03
Curt, prolly 24-5 lb, plus added mini Packers, with 32 mm Kojaks; both
same route with a 1 mile climb. 75" versus 72". The gofast climbs
faster. It just does. Not hugely, but I can tell the difference. And
as for the Fargo ...

That said, my Fargo weighs, I am sure, north of 35 with the fat
wheelset and I enjoy it immensely.

On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 2:51 PM, Brewster Fong  wrote:
>
> On Monday, August 27, 2012 10:44:02 AM UTC-7, Andy Smitty Schmidt wrote:
>>
>> Or maybe they'll just think you're crazy, jinxed. :-)
>>
>> I've been dropping Riv-ish tid bits on my bike-commuting bro-in-law for a
>> couple years. He's even ridden my AHH and a friend's loaner Riv-ish Schwinn
>> High Sierra. He seems responsive in conversation and had nothing but high
>> praise for Homer and the Schwinn, but in the end his first criteria remains
>> that a bike has to be sub-18lbs. He talks about getting a more comfortable
>> bike with all the Riv-ish tid bits and fit but he can't bring himself to buy
>> a "heavy" bike.
>
>
> I don't get it, do you have to ride a "heavy" lugged steel bike that is
> built with fenders, racks and panniers to make a bike "Riv-ish?"
>
> My bikes are carbon and ti and I make them "Riv-ish" by doing alot of what
> Grant prescribes:
>
> 1. higher bars - my bars are at or a bit above the saddle height
> 2. saddle height - both of my bikes have a little bit more than a "fist full
> of seatpost" showing
> 3. tires - I run "fatter" tires than most of my friends. Instead of
> 700x20/22/23 pumped up to 115-120psi; I ride a 700x25 tire pumped up to 80
> psi. I get plenty of comfort with, at least for me, no perceptible loss of
> "performance."
> 4. wider saddle - I love Avocet O2 saddles because they are wider than the
> average "ass-hatchet," opps, I mean bike saddle that mean for a guy weighing
> in at 140lb. This means more comfort for my fat butt!
> 5. lower gearing - I have compact cranks iwth low gearing (48/33 and 48/34)
> for years because its not only good on my knees, but allow me to climb up
> the steep stuff. Grant's been advocating this for years. Now, almost all my
> buddies have gone to "compact" cranks and some have even gone to, gasp,
> triples
> 6. fenders - when I can fit it, depends on the carbon fork, I use Crud MK2
> fenders. They're pretty minimal, especially when compared to others, and a
> bit flimsy, but guess what, they work! The key is figuring out whether you
> have clearance under the fork - especially a carbon fork.
>
> Anyways, my carbon bike weighs in at about 17lb; the ti bike weighs a bit
> more at about 18lb. Yes, there are plenty of things on my bikes that G would
> looked down upon - ergo levers, carbon frame/fork. Still, I've taken what I
> think works for me and apply them to my bikes to make them work. You may
> want to aim your bro-in-law into that direction, who know he may end up with
> a Riv custom one of these daysGood Luck!
>>
>>
>> --Andy
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, August 27, 2012 7:34:49 AM UTC-7, jinxed wrote:
>>>
>>> On Monday, August 27, 2012 7:56:35 AM UTC-6, Fullylugged wrote:

 Buying the book is also a nice way to support a guy who has done and
 continues to do some things that we benefit from.

>>>
>>> Yep...thats why I mentioned purchasing two copies. I want it/Grant/RBW to
>>> do well and keep the good stuff coming. Maybe if I give a copy to someone
>>> not-in-the-know...they might enjoy the refreshing point of view to cycling.
>
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-- 
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   -- Claude Cockburn

-
Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
-

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[RBW] Re: How Saluki got its name, and is that a real dog on the badge?

2012-08-27 Thread Marty
PM sent - thanks John.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Should I "Just Ride", or am I already?

2012-08-27 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Mon, 2012-08-27 at 15:10 -0600, PATRICK MOORE wrote:
> Brewster: we demand photos. I want to see 17/18 lb bikes set up a la
> Riv.

I wonder, are these the bikes the Kool Kids on the VSalon and Paceline
Forums refer to as "FasterBackwards"??



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Re: [RBW] Re: Should I "Just Ride", or am I already?

2012-08-27 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Mon, 2012-08-27 at 17:00 -0400, Peter Morgano wrote:
> Not be banal but Rivendell bikes are lugged steel bikes. I dont think
> a CF bike with 25c tires is really "Rivish" at all, I mean how far are
> we going to strech a made up term anyway? Not hating on that kind of
> bike at all, rode one I have up at the parents house over the weekend
> and while it was really fun it would not be my choice for longer rides
> and comfort. 

Clearly there are two aspects of Rivendell bicycles, steel tubing and
lugged construction, that no Ti or carbon bike will have.  But it's not
hard to imagine Ti bikes that have Rivendellian characteristics.  

I saw one on the road the other day, a Hampsten Strada Bianca with long
reach sidepulls, nominally 27mm but actual width 30 mm Challenge
Parigi-Roubaix tires, longer than "usual" chainstays, all typical for
Rivendells, and indeed a bicycle very much at home on gravel roads
(that's what "Strada Bianca" means).  Crank was again typical Riv fare,
a Sugino square taper crank with what looked like a 46T or smaller big
ring.

It belongs to a guy I know on the VSalon forum who lives not far from
me, and it's his daily commuter -- again, certainly "Rivish".  Of
course, it had brifters and a carbon fork, that last anathema in
Rivworld, but if there was such a thing as a Titanium Rivendell, this
would have been it.

I've not ridden it, but I would confidently expect it to be very
comfortable for long rides.



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[RBW] Re: Should I "Just Ride", or am I already?

2012-08-27 Thread jinxed
To follow the hijack...today I rode my lugged steel Rivendell on the same 
exact 20mi route I rode yesterday on my full carbon Cannondale cross bike. 
I had equal fun. Who gives a fuck...like the book says "Just Ride".

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Re: [RBW] Re: Should I "Just Ride", or am I already?

2012-08-27 Thread Will
My next door neighbor is the same. He bought a new aluminum race bike. All 
the tubes are ovalized. The frame has less flex than a rock. The tires are 
22mm. It might fit 24s... but that would be a push. He's 200 pounds and 
fixing pinch flats every week. 


On Monday, August 27, 2012 12:44:02 PM UTC-5, Andy Smitty Schmidt wrote:
>
> Or maybe they'll just think you're crazy, jinxed. :-)
>
> I've been dropping Riv-ish tid bits on my bike-commuting bro-in-law for a 
> couple years. He's even ridden my AHH and a friend's loaner Riv-ish Schwinn 
> High Sierra. He seems responsive in conversation and had nothing but high 
> praise for Homer and the Schwinn, but in the end his first criteria remains 
> that a bike has to be sub-18lbs. He talks about getting a more comfortable 
> bike with all the Riv-ish tid bits and fit but he can't bring himself to 
> buy a "heavy" bike. 
>
> --Andy
>
>
>
> On Monday, August 27, 2012 7:34:49 AM UTC-7, jinxed wrote:
>>
>> On Monday, August 27, 2012 7:56:35 AM UTC-6, Fullylugged wrote:
>>>
>>> Buying the book is also a nice way to support a guy who has done and 
>>> continues to do some things that we benefit from.
>>>
>>>
>> Yep...thats why I mentioned purchasing two copies. I want it/Grant/RBW to 
>> do well and keep the good stuff coming. Maybe if I give a copy to someone 
>> not-in-the-know...they might enjoy the refreshing point of view to cycling. 
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Should I "Just Ride", or am I already?

2012-08-27 Thread Anne Paulson
"Fixing pinch flats every week" is the relevant detail here. If
someone has a race bike (carbon fiber, aluminum, whatever), loves it,
does exactly the rides they want on it, and feels perfectly
comfortable-- well then, more power to them! But it's sad when someone
buys a bike that doesn't work for them, because they were swayed by
racing bike standards that aren't appropriate for the kind of riding
they want to do.

On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 3:20 PM, Will  wrote:


> My next door neighbor is the same. He bought a new aluminum race bike. All
> the tubes are ovalized. The frame has less flex than a rock. The tires are
> 22mm. It might fit 24s... but that would be a push. He's 200 pounds and
> fixing pinch flats every week.

-- 
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My hovercraft is full of eels

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Re: [RBW] Re: Should I "Just Ride", or am I already?

2012-08-27 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Mon, 2012-08-27 at 15:20 -0700, Will wrote:
> My next door neighbor is the same. He bought a new aluminum race bike.
> All the tubes are ovalized. The frame has less flex than a rock. The
> tires are 22mm. It might fit 24s... but that would be a push. He's 200
> pounds and fixing pinch flats every week. 

He's definitely doing something wrong: insufficient tire pressure for
his weight, perhaps, or maybe he doesn't know how to "ride light."  Of
course, 24mm tires would help, in that he could use less pressure.



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[RBW] Riv's new Thin Gripster pedals?

2012-08-27 Thread Liesl
Oh dear, they look so tempting!  Any intel out there?

http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/pe4.htm

Liesl

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RE: [RBW] Riv's new Thin Gripster pedals?

2012-08-27 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J
If you Google them, you'll turn up several favorable reviews, of the pedals and 
also of the company's customer service.  I orderd a pair.


From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Liesl
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 7:47 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Riv's new Thin Gripster pedals?

Oh dear, they look so tempting!  Any intel out there?

http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/pe4.htm

Liesl

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Re: [RBW] Riv's new Thin Gripster pedals?

2012-08-27 Thread Robert F. Harrison
No, don't know much but they look good and I've ordered set.


Bob

On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 1:47 PM, Liesl  wrote:

> Oh dear, they look so tempting!  Any intel out there?
>
> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/pe4.htm
>
> Liesl
>
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statrix.com

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Re: [RBW] Riv's new Thin Gripster pedals?

2012-08-27 Thread Eric Platt
Not sure if they are the same VP pedal, but, if so - Jim Thill had a set on
one of his bikes last year.  Test rode and really liked the pedals.  They
are grippy and the thin profile is really nice on a lower bottom bracket
bike.

That said - not sure I'll order a pair.  Have one set of pedals with spikes
and both my legs seem to like to bleed from the spikes.  Appears past
health issues can have lingering effects.

Probably going to replace those with MKS sneakers.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN



On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 6:52 PM, Robert F. Harrison wrote:

> No, don't know much but they look good and I've ordered set.
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 1:47 PM, Liesl  wrote:
>
>> Oh dear, they look so tempting!  Any intel out there?
>>
>> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/pe4.htm
>>
>> Liesl
>>
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[RBW] Re: Should I "Just Ride", or am I already?

2012-08-27 Thread Andy Smitty Schmidt
Wow! didn't intend to stir the "Riv=Heavy" pot. "Heavy" is/was my 
bro-in-laws word... relative to his non-riv-ish set-up CF bikes. As in... 
he praises the comfort, full-fenders, rack-ability, lugged beauty, and 
smooth riding 40mm tires of my Hilsen then finishes up by saying something 
like "but I just can't see riding a bike that's over 18lbs."   

When I judge a bike I'm interested in what it can do. Can I haul a kid on 
it? How much cargo can it carry? Can I hook my trailer up to it? Can I ride 
it on as well as off road? Can I hop the curb with whatever load I'm 
carrying to take the lane on the Sellwood Bridge if there's oncoming 
bike/ped traffic on the sidewalk? Can I comfortably ride it in the rain? 
Does it have lights/reflectors for riding after dark? Weight never really 
comes into the picture in my mind. 

Regarding the book... as others have said, I got a few new bits of info 
from it, but more than that it's nice to have so many of Grants thoughts in 
one place. And despite what my my failed attempt at humor above might 
imply, I hope you do share a copy of Just Ride, jinxed, and that it finds 
it's way into receptive hands. 

"Ride it like you earned it" --seen on a sticker on a bike helmet in Seattle

--Andy 


On Sunday, August 26, 2012 3:49:06 PM UTC-7, jinxed wrote:
>
> This is silly, but I had a question to those of you who've read the book. 
> I had been considering getting the book the next time I place an order with 
> RBW, then I happened to see a copy at the local B&N. I was heading out the 
> door but stopped to skim a couple pages. My question is this...if I have 
> been following the Readers, blug, and web articles, are there any new or 
> different writings in the book? I realize the description is billed as a 
> collection of micro-essays, and the couple pages I glanced at were familiar 
> from sources I already have. Not that I mind having mutiple copies of 
> something, and I want to support the book, I'm just curious if there is 
> expanded and or new content? It might be the difference between getting one 
> of the BSNY books (Ive not read or followed) now and get the Just Ride book 
> later.
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Should I "Just Ride", or am I already?

2012-08-27 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Agree. My brother is at least 40 lb heavier than my 175 (at 4" taller)
and happily rides 23s (nominal) at well under 100 psi (because he is
casual about tire pressure) on LA streets -- heck, for that matter,
he's taken his RB-1 with 23s into the mountains near Santa Monica.
Note that he does not choose 23s as such; he's cheap and has so many
bikes that he uses what he scavenges, mostly.

OTOH, I'd rather (as the man said) stab myself in the eye than ride an
aluminum frame with oversized, ovalized tubes and skinny tires. Fat
tires, maybe.

On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 4:46 PM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> On Mon, 2012-08-27 at 15:20 -0700, Will wrote:
>> My next door neighbor is the same. He bought a new aluminum race bike.
>> All the tubes are ovalized. The frame has less flex than a rock. The
>> tires are 22mm. It might fit 24s... but that would be a push. He's 200
>> pounds and fixing pinch flats every week.
>
> He's definitely doing something wrong: insufficient tire pressure for
> his weight, perhaps, or maybe he doesn't know how to "ride light."  Of
> course, 24mm tires would help, in that he could use less pressure.
>
>
>
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[RBW] Re: To owners of 66cm Quickbeams - You're getting very, very sleepy...

2012-08-27 Thread BSWP
.

On Tuesday, August 21, 2012 7:19:38 PM UTC-7, Cycletex wrote:
>
> Now. 
>
> I command you. 
>
> Sell me your 66cm Quickbeam. 
>
> No, really.
>
> Clif 
> ph# (five one two - 695-235two.)
>

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[RBW] Re: Riv's new Thin Gripster pedals?

2012-08-27 Thread BSWP
Do these new pedals need the extra steel washer, to avoid gouging the 
cranks?

- Andrew, Berkeley

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[RBW] City bike, maiden voyage

2012-08-27 Thread PATRICK MOORE
2012 Novara Fusion. This is skirting Off Topic but since I may put
Albatrosses or Doves on it (think Boscos will be too swept back) and
since the bar is several inches higher than saddle, *and* 'cause it's
set up to be comfortable and useful ... perhaps it's still within the
margin.

Anyway, went, spent, brought it home, installed thorn proofing, Axiom
Dutchies, mirror. Vittoria "Randoneur" tires, but they would not pass
Jan's inspection: *double* protective belt, tread, nominal 37s but
more like <35. I added:

! Tire Liner
! Thick bottomed tube, *with* Slime

Total rear wheel weight (disk, Alfine 8, additions as above): 4 kg.

I raised the saddle 4" and took it on a 10 mile errand ride. Gawd,
glad I ride Rivs. Part of the problem, of course, is the saddle
position: if it were mine the saddle would go back fully 2 inches, at
least. As it was, even with "tourist" bars above saddle height, I felt
tension on my forearms--even without a tight grip on the bar--from the
exertion of holding my torso up.

With the saddle mid-rail on a no-setback post, I couldn't get any
power to the pedals and found myself using odd muscles that quickly
got sore.

There is considerable drag on both hubs: man at shop (experienced)
said it's the disk pads and that they will wear in. Hope so!

"Comfort" saddle with fat cushy pads was not particularly comfortable, for me.

I do not like retentionless pedals, tho' to be fair to the concept
these are aluminums with rubber edges that gave little grip to my boat
shoes.

Forgot to take photos, so y'all are spared. Friend seems pleased with
it; hope she really does start riding it regularly.

$830 out the door after membership discount, Lezyne converto pump
(nice, shiny aluminum with footpeg), mirror, tax, and $20 REI
membership fee. Tubes and liners from another store.

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[RBW] Re: I've got a project bike. Do you want to do the conversion, or should I?

2012-08-27 Thread Montclair BobbyB
NICE, Bill   VERY nice... it just beckons to be ridden... I LOVE the 
way the Saturae x28 rims look... just be wary they're single-walled, and 
NOT the strongest (compared to today's rims)... Case in point (and granted 
I did a totally boneheaded descent down a steep flight of stairs), I 
potato-chipped the front rim like it was nothing.  Enjoy, BB

http://www.flickr.com/photos/16461051@N04/4547700885/in/set-72157623574409014

On Monday, August 20, 2012 1:24:46 PM UTC-4, William wrote:
>
> And now it's totally rideable.  I did the compulsory ride around the block 
> yesterday afternoon without issue.  I'll do a slightly longer shake down 
> ride tonight.  
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/7824790510/in/photostream 
>
>
>
> On Monday, August 6, 2012 11:51:05 AM UTC-7, William wrote:
>>
>> I've gotten a hold of an early 80s Stumpjumper Sport that appears to be 
>> practically unridden.  Deer head derailleurs, specialized cranks and hubs. 
>>  Lugged at the headtube and lugged unicrown fork.  Super long chainstays. 
>>  I think it will make a great substitute for an Atlantis or Bombadil type 
>> of touring bike.  I'm thinking the Compass 26" tires, or maybe Big Apples, 
>> with fenders, and drop bars.  This came from the Harding Elementary School 
>> Dad's Club.  I could do a conversion and then try to sell it, but first I 
>> wanted to float it here to see if anyone in the Bay Area was thinking of 
>> doing something like this and wanted to have the fun for themselves.  Let 
>> me know if you think you'd like the shot at this.  I'm thinking that $400 
>> made out to Harding Elementary School would be enough to keep me from 
>> building a bombproof touring bike out of this.  Let me know if you want a 
>> crack at it.  Here's the photo set:
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/sets/72157630935094690/ 
>>
>> I am especially interested in getting out of doing this conversion 
>> because I always get emotionally attached to these projects and want to 
>> keep them.  :)
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Opinions on Paul Racers or side pulls

2012-08-27 Thread lungimsam

>
> I forgot to mention:
> They do brake silky smooth with Kool-Stop Salmon pads in wet and dry 
> conditions. Very quiet and feel great when braking.
> BTW, all those adjustment options I mentioned earlier, can actually work 
> for you to help you get them adjusted on the fly if you are a novice, like 
> me at adjusting brakes. They seem to get aligned good with just a nudge of 
> the straddle cable hanger if they get out of kilter.
>
The look of the Racers is growning on me, too.
 I like how they brake better than my sidepulls, but they are tricky for me 
to get adjusted.

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[RBW] Re: Riv's new Thin Gripster pedals?

2012-08-27 Thread Kelly
I've been running box pedals so these fit into my favorite zone.  Probably be 
sold out before I get to them.

Kelly

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[RBW] Re: Opinions on Paul Racers or side pulls

2012-08-27 Thread lungimsam

>
> PS - that's "Kool-Stop Salmon *Thinline*" pads.
>  
>
Tip: Just pop out the ball end of the straddle cable as a quick release. 
Paul said it was fine to do that. 

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[RBW] Re: What's your Rivendell story?

2012-08-27 Thread lungimsam

On Monday, August 27, 2012 4:02:16 AM UTC-4, Evan wrote:
>
> "Comfort. Function. Fun."  Sounds like an unofficial Riv motto.
>
> They could put that in latin on the next new model's head badge.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Riv's new Thin Gripster pedals?

2012-08-27 Thread Thomas Lynn Skean
These look thin enough to affect your Gain Ratio! I'll have to measure my Grip 
Kings to know for sure... but switching to these from GKs may turn your 170mm 
cranks into 172.5mm cranks. It might even inspire you to lower your saddle a 
smidge.

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean
who today noticed the difference between riding in Keen sandals versus Keen 
Coronados

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Re: [RBW] Re: Should I "Just Ride", or am I already?

2012-08-27 Thread Will
My thinking is that he's simply too heavy for the tires. I'm thinking 
135-145 pounds are about what those tires can support. 
There are no professional racers pushing 200 pounds. 

Also, I think it is dangerous to ride 22mm tires on a carbon fork. You're 
pushing the pressure limits and doing so on a fork that probably won't 
support a flat at speed.  


On Monday, August 27, 2012 5:46:56 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> On Mon, 2012-08-27 at 15:20 -0700, Will wrote: 
> > My next door neighbor is the same. He bought a new aluminum race bike. 
> > All the tubes are ovalized. The frame has less flex than a rock. The 
> > tires are 22mm. It might fit 24s... but that would be a push. He's 200 
> > pounds and fixing pinch flats every week. 
>
> He's definitely doing something wrong: insufficient tire pressure for 
> his weight, perhaps, or maybe he doesn't know how to "ride light."  Of 
> course, 24mm tires would help, in that he could use less pressure. 
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Riv's new Thin Gripster pedals?

2012-08-27 Thread ted
Of course both pedal and shoe thickness variations may induce us fussy
folks to tweek saddle height, but the radius of the circle your foot
goes in stays the same. With longer cranks the circle is bigger so
knees come up higher (for same max extension) and feet go further
front to back. Not really the same things.

On Aug 27, 8:06 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean 
wrote:
> These look thin enough to affect your Gain Ratio! I'll have to measure my 
> Grip Kings to know for sure... but switching to these from GKs may turn your 
> 170mm cranks into 172.5mm cranks. It might even inspire you to lower your 
> saddle a smidge.
>
> Yours,
> Thomas Lynn Skean
> who today noticed the difference between riding in Keen sandals versus Keen 
> Coronados

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[RBW] Re: Riv's new Thin Gripster pedals?

2012-08-27 Thread Thomas Lynn Skean
That's right of course; it's an offset, not a stretch.

Still... them pedals is thin!

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

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