[RBW] Re: Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

[newenglandbike]

I used the nitto mini front and wald basket, with a Tubus Tara lowrider on 
a 6K tour once.I would use the exact same setup if I did it again.   
The mini-front with wald basket and bungee is incredibly robust, flexible, 
and handy. Of course the Tubus low rider's reputation speaks for itself 
I think.   However, I am sure I could have used a Nitto Big Front rack with 
wald basket and get similar performance. 

Good luck on your tour :D

Matt


On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:34:19 PM UTC-4, Darin G. wrote:
>
> My Atlantis is built up and riding (gratuitous plug for Saturday Cycles in 
> SLC).  An awesome dreadnaught of a bicycle.  I'm running a Nitto Mini-Front 
> with a Berthoud bag and decaleur on the front.  I'm planning a tour and 
> wondering what y'all use for a front touring rack.  I'm thinking of pulling 
> the Mini off and going with the Nitto Big Front.  Seems the Berthoud bag 
> would rest on it in fine, especially with the decaleur, and then I could 
> hang the front panniers on as well.  But,...wondering if there is some 
> other option where I could keep the Mini-Front and use some kind of clamp 
> on low-rider (Tubus?  Bruce Gordon?).  Is there a rack that would actually 
> use the fork braze ons other than the Nitto?  Suggestions with illustrative 
> photos appreciated.
>
> D.G.
>

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[RBW] Re: pre-ordered a blue Sam Hillborne a few minutes ago

[newenglandbike]

I've been using the quickbeam crank on my bombadil for years, and have been 
slowly updating my other bikes with the same. The big ring on a triple 
has only ever been a dysfunctional, pant-leg eating guard for me 
anyway. Might as well have a real guard there :)

Matt


On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:27:24 PM UTC-4, Scot Brooks wrote:
>
> Congratulations! I was in the same situation as you when I ordered my Sam. 
> Had a 14 year old Bontrager Privateer Comp that had been through many 
> reincarnations and it was time to get something new and nice. I think 
> you're going to look back at this as one of the best and most overdue 
> decisions you ever made. 
>
> In answer your question about the crankset; I went with the triple because 
> they accidentally shipped it to me (I ordered the double with the guard). 
> After riding it for awhile, I removed the big ring in favor of the guard 
> and I've never looked back. I still wish I got the double to begin with 
> because the gearing would be just a bit more useful. In my case, I bought 
> the 12-36 cassette from Riv and I never quite get to low gear even living 
> in hilly Seattle. The cassette would make more sense with the 42/30 double 
> or whatever it is, for me at least. 
>
> As for the big Marathons, you can go wicked big if you want. I got some 
> 700x47 ones to try on my Sam and they fit no sweat, even (kinda sorta) with 
> fenders. I usually just ride the 38 version though. 
>

On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:27:24 PM UTC-4, Scot Brooks wrote:
>
> Congratulations! I was in the same situation as you when I ordered my Sam. 
> Had a 14 year old Bontrager Privateer Comp that had been through many 
> reincarnations and it was time to get something new and nice. I think 
> you're going to look back at this as one of the best and most overdue 
> decisions you ever made. 
>
> In answer your question about the crankset; I went with the triple because 
> they accidentally shipped it to me (I ordered the double with the guard). 
> After riding it for awhile, I removed the big ring in favor of the guard 
> and I've never looked back. I still wish I got the double to begin with 
> because the gearing would be just a bit more useful. In my case, I bought 
> the 12-36 cassette from Riv and I never quite get to low gear even living 
> in hilly Seattle. The cassette would make more sense with the 42/30 double 
> or whatever it is, for me at least. 
>
> As for the big Marathons, you can go wicked big if you want. I got some 
> 700x47 ones to try on my Sam and they fit no sweat, even (kinda sorta) with 
> fenders. I usually just ride the 38 version though. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley

[doc]

I found the Barley too small for day rides and went with the Pendle.
For both bags I inserted hard plastic backing to help them maintain
their shape (cut from cat litter tubs).  For both sprung and unsprung
saddles, a Midlands bag support at $7.00 works great and keeps them
from swaying, plus prevents them rubbing up against the backs of my
thighs.

I love the looks of the Carradice, but I wish they had different
fasteners than the traditional buckles.  They can be cumbersome,
especially in winter when wearing a pair of gloves.

On Apr 17, 11:59 pm, charlie  wrote:
> Thought of Barley until I purchased a Nelson Longflap...and glad I
> did. The Barley would be too small except in ideal weather (for me) In
> the summer I use a Banana bag for tools,tube, wallet and phone but in
> the rainy Northwest I need capacity for rain gear and a change of
> clothing etc. for the other nine months of the year. I imagine a
> Barley would be a nice bag to leave on all year with perhaps another
> (maybe a front bag) to supplement. I rack my Nelson now and am in the
> process of building a spartan rack / bag support / light mount. This
> rack will be made with the idea of adding and extension piece for a
> full rack when I want to camp or whatever. Still working on the
> design...with bags more is better when you actually want to carry
> stuff. When you go big you find stuff to carry that you might actually
> need or want to make cycling more enjoyable and less of a "stranded in
> the middle of nowhere without what you need athletic event."   ; )
>
> On Apr 17, 2:36 pm, Peter M  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Thinking of getting a Carradice Barley saddlebag but wanted to ask if
> > anyone here is running one currently and how they like it. Also do you
> > need a bag support with this thing like the now discontinued Hupe, and
> > will it work with a sprung Brooks like the B72? Thanks to any help
> > anyone can offer.

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[RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley

[newenglandbike]

Another vote for the barley being a tad small.Good bag, but other than 
tools/spare tube and a sweater you're not fitting much in there. For 
Carradice, my faves are the camper and camper longflap.BUT you should 
take a long hard look at a Saddlesack Medium or Large.   Those bags 
combined with a nitto top rack are ridiculously useful and well designed.

-Matt

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 6:44:58 AM UTC-4, doc wrote:
>
> I found the Barley too small for day rides and went with the Pendle. 
> For both bags I inserted hard plastic backing to help them maintain 
> their shape (cut from cat litter tubs).  For both sprung and unsprung 
> saddles, a Midlands bag support at $7.00 works great and keeps them 
> from swaying, plus prevents them rubbing up against the backs of my 
> thighs. 
>
> I love the looks of the Carradice, but I wish they had different 
> fasteners than the traditional buckles.  They can be cumbersome, 
> especially in winter when wearing a pair of gloves. 
>
> On Apr 17, 11:59 pm, charlie  wrote: 
> > Thought of Barley until I purchased a Nelson Longflap...and glad I 
> > did. The Barley would be too small except in ideal weather (for me) In 
> > the summer I use a Banana bag for tools,tube, wallet and phone but in 
> > the rainy Northwest I need capacity for rain gear and a change of 
> > clothing etc. for the other nine months of the year. I imagine a 
> > Barley would be a nice bag to leave on all year with perhaps another 
> > (maybe a front bag) to supplement. I rack my Nelson now and am in the 
> > process of building a spartan rack / bag support / light mount. This 
> > rack will be made with the idea of adding and extension piece for a 
> > full rack when I want to camp or whatever. Still working on the 
> > design...with bags more is better when you actually want to carry 
> > stuff. When you go big you find stuff to carry that you might actually 
> > need or want to make cycling more enjoyable and less of a "stranded in 
> > the middle of nowhere without what you need athletic event."   ; ) 
> > 
> > On Apr 17, 2:36 pm, Peter M  wrote: 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > > Thinking of getting a Carradice Barley saddlebag but wanted to ask if 
> > > anyone here is running one currently and how they like it. Also do you 
> > > need a bag support with this thing like the now discontinued Hupe, and 
> > > will it work with a sprung Brooks like the B72? Thanks to any help 
> > > anyone can offer.

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[RBW] Platrack In Back

[Thomas Lynn Skean]

This I too shall try! Rhetorical question: perhaps there's a way of doing it 
without the diving board?

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

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[RBW] Re: FS: 59cm Bleriot

[Kris]

Still available...thanks to an individual who appears to have flaked out 
the bike is now boxed and ready to ship.
 
$1300 + shipping.
 

On Tuesday, April 10, 2012 8:25:53 AM UTC-4, Kris wrote:

> 2 out of 3 interested parties have backed outfinances and size. 
> The third is thinking.  The Bleriot is still available and will 
> finally be on eBay in the next 48 hrs if nobody is interested.  Sorry 
> for the multiple posts, but I really dislike using eBay for various 
> reasons. 
>
> On Mar 29, 9:42 am, Kris  wrote: 
> > The bike is still available. I have posted on my local craigslist 
> > sites.  I would really like to not use eBay. 
> > 
> > Kris 
> > 
> > On Mar 28, 9:12 am, "colin p. cummings"  
> > wrote: 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > > What a deal.  somebody gonna be happy when they get this. 
> > 
> > > On Mar 27, 7:06 pm, Kris  wrote: 
> > 
> > > > MyBleriotis just not getting ridden enough and the poor guy is 
> > > > hanging on a hook all day.  I am the original owner and purchased 
> > > > directly from QBP when I worked at a shop.  I am only selling to 
> > > > finance the purchase of a Salsa Fargo. 
> > 
> > > > I am the original owner and it's in great condition.  It has the 
> usual 
> > > > nicks but no significant scratches.  The Honjo fenders have some 
> > > > dings, but still look great!  There's some wear on the head badge as 
> > > > well. 
> > 
> > > > Build; 
> > > > 59 cmBleriotframe and fork 
> > > > Shimano 600 headset 
> > > > Nitto Randonneur bar 
> > > > Nitto Technomic 110 stem 
> > > > Shimano R600 50/34 cranks 
> > > > Shimano Ultegra FD 
> > > > Shimano 105 RD 
> > > > Shimano Dura Ace bar end shifters 
> > > > Tektro R556 side pull calipers 
> > > > Cane Creek brake levers 
> > > > Shimano LX/Velocity Synergy wheel set 
> > > > Nifty Swifty Tires 
> > > > Honjo Fenders 
> > > > Campagnolo Athena seatpost 
> > 
> > > > No pedals, saddle or cassette (which was used on my main road bike) 
> > 
> > > > $1300 + shipping - pics available for those interested.  I'm in 
> > > > Asheville, NC if someone local is interested.- Hide quoted text - 
> > 
> > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - 
> > 
> > - Show quoted text -

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Re: [RBW] Re: Where does the Rivendell Rambouillet fit in with other Rivs?

[Steven Frederick]

Yeah, that covers it.  Grant's been about maximizing brake clearance ever
since he started Riv.  The all 'rounder with canti brakes concept has
always been part of it, and with each longer-reach sidepull that's been
introduced, Rivendell has introduced an appropriate frame.  The Heron road
was designed to maximize the short reach brake that was the only thing
available at the time.  When the mid-reach brakes came out, the Rambioullet
replaced the Heron Road.  And the Saluki was a twofer, introducing both the
current superlong sidepull brake and 650b.  This frame lives on in the
AHH.

Each succesive Rivendell has also gotten a bit slacker, tourey/all roadier
and a bit stouter.  The Roadeo is a throwback to the sportier Rivs like the
Heron road and Rambouillet, steeper, lighter, but with the long reach and
tire/fender clearances that have become available the last few years.

I personally think the Roadeo is the best pavement-oriented Riv ever made.
If I didn't already have a Heron Road and a Rambouillet, I would buy one.

Steve

On Wed, Apr 11, 2012 at 2:56 PM, Cyclofiend Jim wrote:

> One thing we tend to take a little for granted these days was the
> comparative lack of appropriate tires, brake and such which we are
> currently enjoying. At the time, the common brakes were typically short
> reach, and though the Rambouillet was designed for significant clearance,
> there was just not a lot of hardware which supported that idea.  I recall
> GP lamenting in his end-of-year wish lists in Readers from then that he was
> hoping for "standard reach brakes" from the major manufacturers.
>
> When the Silver Brakes came out, this let GP start working on a truly
> large clearance, go-anywhere bike, which became the Hilsen.  The Hilsen
> kind of slid the scale one way, and then the Roadeo was able to be notched
> a bit more toward the light and snappy (though, significantly, with no loss
> of clearances) range.
>
> Here's an interesting image or two -
>
> The Rambouillet rear clearance -
> http://www.cyclofiend.com/Images/rbw/rr24_pg21md.jpg
>
> Shown with a Pasela 35 (which during that era probably ran more like a 32)
> and Dia Compe 505Q brake.
>
> The Hilsen rear clearance -
> http://cyclofiend.com/Images/rbw/AHH37PAS&sharpieRear.jpg
>
> Shown with a 37 Pasela and Silver brakes.
>
> As others mentioned, I do have a Rambouillet page here -
> http://www.cyclofiend.com/rbw/rambouillet
>
> - Jim
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Platrack Slickersack Marks Rack Combo for sale

[Steve Palincsar]

On Tue, 2012-04-17 at 19:33 -0700, Bill M. wrote:
> The subject line sounds like it could be a part of the signoff from
> NPR's Car Talk:
> 
> 
> 
> "...and our executive producer Doug "Free Lunch" Berman, just back
> from the Hackensack Platrack, Slickersack, Mark's Rack, fatback,
> hardtack, lamb rack, Dry Sack and Monterey Jack On-Your-Back Snack
> Attack".


or an American Express commercial



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[RBW] Re: Platrack In Back

[Marty]

And let's not forget this solution. Rube Goldberg has been busy with his 
own Platrack!



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[RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?

[RJM]

Hey, Bicycling Magazine every so often is good for something.  
 
I kid, I kid.

On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:02:56 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:

> What may seem intuitive to me today came from reading exactly the way 
> you're doing now. It may be possible to teach oneself all the shifting 
> tricks strictly from riding and doing, but I prefer to ask someone who 
> already knows them. My front shifting approach was derived from a Bicycling 
> Magazine article witten 20 years ago by Ned Overend..teaching mountain bike 
> racing, of all things. It made sense; I tried it on the road; it worked.
>  
> Joe Bernard
> Vallejo, CA. 
>
> On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 7:46:26 PM UTC-7, Zack wrote:
>
>> Joe - 
>>
>> Thank you for the response - perfect description, and also the exact 
>> opposite of what I have been doing.
>>
>> To some of you guys may just be intuitive or obvious, but it takes me a 
>> little bit to catch on to things.  
>>
>> I will also tighten the silvers up again.  It does seem like I have to *
>> really* have them tight in order for them not to slip on the Sam.  I had 
>> a Salsa Casseroll that had silvers which was not nearly as finnicky.  
>>
>> On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 8:09:35 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote: 
>>>
>>> Zack, I live in a hilly area so I use all three rings pretty often..this 
>>> may not apply to your terrain. Like you, I ride flattish roads in the 
>>> middle ring, but when approaching an incline I'll usually shift to the 
>>> small ring up front before "bottoming out" the gears in back. So my 
>>> "conditions" are granny-ring for up, middle-ring for flat, big-ring for 
>>> downhill. I'm using the front shifting to establish the parameters, then 
>>> fine-tuning with the rear. 
>>>  
>>> Now here's where this helps with overshifts on the front: Let's say 
>>> you're in the middle ring, in the highest gear in back. Look down and what 
>>> do you see? The chain is angling to the right to get to the smallest rear 
>>> cog. Now you want to shift the front of the chain to the right, also, to 
>>> get your highest gear. You're more likely to throw the chain past the 
>>> chainring in this situation because the rest of the chain is veering that 
>>> way. But let's say you're only in the *middle *rear cogs, then decide 
>>> to shift the front . Less chance of "overthrow", because the chain started 
>>> out in more of a straight line front-to-back before the front shift. This 
>>> works the other direction, too. You're more likely to overshift the granny 
>>> if the chain is already all the way to the spokes in back.
>>>  
>>> I'm sorry if that's not clear, feel free to keep asking questions. Btw, 
>>> my Rivendell Romulus came to me with a similar drivetrain, and overshifted 
>>> like the dickens when I first got it. It was a hard lesson..
>>>  
>>> Joe Bernard
>>> Vallejo, CA.
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:45:28 PM UTC-7, Zack wrote:
>>>
 FD was from Riv, I had them do the setup last year when I got the bike. 

 It would surprise me if I had already worn out either a chainring or a 
 casette, only rode the Sam for the end of the summer until now, less than 
 1,000 miles I would imagine.

 slipping on the cogs, not the rings.  

 have read the sheldon article on chains, and also the one on chain 
 slip.  I tried some grease underneath the bb to see if that will help.

 was just more interested in riding tips than troubleshooting the 
 derailer stuff, as I have seen lots of tips on the derailers but not much 
 on the riding.

 On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:44:51 PM UTC-4, Zack wrote: 
>
> I noticed a discussion cropping up in the "New Chain Skipping" thread 
> that I thought it would be worthwhile to dedicate a thread to this, as I 
> have been thinking about it a bit -  
>
> I am a relatively new bike rider, and change gears as it makes sense 
> to me - when i feel like i need more speed, i shift, when i feel like i 
> am 
> not going to be able to get up the hill, i shift.  
>
> But I never really learned the "right" way to do this.  I have learned 
> a little about friction shifting just from poking around (lightening up 
> on 
> the cranks when I am about to shift, as an example) but haven't seen a 
> dedicated thread to this, nor have I found a good resource.  I know for 
> many of you this is intuitive basic stuff, but I never learned how to 
> ride 
> a bike from anyone that actually knew what they are doing.
>
> I generally stay in the middle ring on my front chainring (I have a 
> triple) and use all of the back gears until I need more, and then I shift 
> to either the big or small chainring.  I am cognizant of cross gearing, 
> but 
> am probably guilty of doing it once in a while.
>
> I have consistently had problems with chains slipping, throwing chains 
> (both off the big and granny rings) across m

[RBW] Re: Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

[RJM]

Does anybody know if the Nitto Big front rack fits the Atlantis without the 
use of P-clamps; does it just bolt right up to the braze on?  
 

On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 9:34:19 PM UTC-5, Darin G. wrote:

> My Atlantis is built up and riding (gratuitous plug for Saturday Cycles in 
> SLC).  An awesome dreadnaught of a bicycle.  I'm running a Nitto Mini-Front 
> with a Berthoud bag and decaleur on the front.  I'm planning a tour and 
> wondering what y'all use for a front touring rack.  I'm thinking of pulling 
> the Mini off and going with the Nitto Big Front.  Seems the Berthoud bag 
> would rest on it in fine, especially with the decaleur, and then I could 
> hang the front panniers on as well.  But,...wondering if there is some 
> other option where I could keep the Mini-Front and use some kind of clamp 
> on low-rider (Tubus?  Bruce Gordon?).  Is there a rack that would actually 
> use the fork braze ons other than the Nitto?  Suggestions with illustrative 
> photos appreciated. 
>
> D.G.
>

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[RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

[Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery]

There are several excellent front racks on the market, but few work elegantly 
with the Atlantis fork braze-ons. Do you have one of the new Atlantis forks 
that have threaded holes on top of the fork crown? I adapted a Surly front rack 
to work on my touring bike...basically by using some rear Surly rack hardware 
and mounting it like a rear rack making use of the top-crown connection. It was 
really strong and clean looking. I'll try to dig up a photo.

But there is a downside: I quit using the Atlantis as a front loader, at least 
with the heavy loads the Surly rack allowed me to carry. I found it unnervingly 
flexy up front when the front load was substantial. This flexiness led me to 
conclude that 1" steerers and quill stems were at a disadvantage when carrying 
lots of weight up front. My Curt Goodrich tourer was 1-1/8 threadless, which 
felt much more solid up front regardless of how much stuff I carried. A friend 
of mine reached the same conclusion in the middle of a one-week tour when he 
tested a compsnion's Surly LHT after complaining that his otherwise gorgeous 
custom tourer (1" steerer) was scary with a heavy front load. I should clarify 
that the flexiness did not stop me from enjoying many happy trips and 
overnights on my Atlantis. The best front load solution I found was a Wald 
basket that I could clamp on the handlebar and zip-tie to the Nitto mini front. 
Anchoring the basket between the bar and rack made for a solid connection. 
Everything that I didn't want in the basket went on the back.

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[RBW] Re: pre-ordered a blue Sam Hillborne a few minutes ago

[Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery]

Yep. I've never used the QB crank, but have added Salsa Crossing Guards and 
Ring Dingers in place of big chainrings on many of my bikes over the years. For 
people who don't like the prevalence of 11t cogs on cassettes...it's not so bad 
when your big ring is a 36 or 38 or 40t. In fact, at least once I ditched the 
front derailleur and shifter. Unless the bike was loaded, I rarely needed the 
granny. The front derailer and shifter were dead weight and a mechanical 
liability. For occasional granny gear use, I shifter with my finger (I suggest 
stopping the bike first).

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[RBW] Re: pre-ordered a blue Sam Hillborne a few minutes ago

[Mike]

On Apr 18, 12:14 am, newenglandbike  wrote:
> I've been using the quickbeam crank on my bombadil for years, and have been
> slowly updating my other bikes with the same.     The big ring on a triple
> has only ever been a dysfunctional, pant-leg eating guard for me
> anyway.     Might as well have a real guard there :)
>
> Matt


More and more this set-up is making sense to me. I have a pair of VO
50.4 BCD cranks on my rando bike and while I love the 46/30 rings I
just don't like the cranks. Set-up is a bit tricky as it's much easier
to have issues with chainline and the crank arms hitting the chain due
to the design. Why they didn't update the design a bit, like Rene
Herse did, rather than just make a straight copy of the TA crank is
beyond me. Also, I don't know that I'm a van of the super low q-
factor.

I sold my QB a while back but kept the cranks. I may use them on my
Hilsen with an 8-spd 11-32 cassette. Two questions:

1) What derailer do I use? Double? Triple?

2) Are there any issues I need to be aware of when using the big
(middle) ring and the lowest or highest gear?

I guess I have a third question, how do I determine chain length, just
wrap the chain around the big (middle) ring and lowest gear?

Thanks!

--mike

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[RBW] Re: Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

[RJM]

I don't have an Atlantis...yet.  I am trying to decide between the 
Atlantis, the Hunqapillar or maybe even a Bombadil for loaded touring and 
as a camp/trail bike to compliment my Sam Hillborne (more roadish setup).  
I am on the small side, so it would be 26" wheels on the Hunq or 
Atlantis or 650b for the Bombadil and was just trying to get a feel for 
what front rack combo would be appropriate.  I believe the Hunq and the 
Bombadil have threaded holes on the top of the fork crown; I didn't realize 
the new Atlantis ones did too.
 
I have a Jamis Aurora that has seen better days and probably should be made 
into a commuter instead of a touring bike. I used it with a Nitto mini 
front rack and a Wald basket for my last tour.  It worked fine, but I would 
like to be able to get more weight down low if I buy a new "touring" bike.  
 
Thanks for relaying your experience with the quill stem/threaded headset on 
a front loader.  It is certainly something to think about before putting a 
deposit down.
 

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 8:08:05 AM UTC-5, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:

> There are several excellent front racks on the market, but few work 
> elegantly with the Atlantis fork braze-ons. Do you have one of the new 
> Atlantis forks that have threaded holes on top of the fork crown? I adapted 
> a Surly front rack to work on my touring bike...basically by using some 
> rear Surly rack hardware and mounting it like a rear rack making use of the 
> top-crown connection. It was really strong and clean looking. I'll try to 
> dig up a photo. 
>
> But there is a downside: I quit using the Atlantis as a front loader, at 
> least with the heavy loads the Surly rack allowed me to carry. I found it 
> unnervingly flexy up front when the front load was substantial. This 
> flexiness led me to conclude that 1" steerers and quill stems were at a 
> disadvantage when carrying lots of weight up front. My Curt Goodrich tourer 
> was 1-1/8 threadless, which felt much more solid up front regardless of how 
> much stuff I carried. A friend of mine reached the same conclusion in the 
> middle of a one-week tour when he tested a compsnion's Surly LHT after 
> complaining that his otherwise gorgeous custom tourer (1" steerer) was 
> scary with a heavy front load. I should clarify that the flexiness did not 
> stop me from enjoying many happy trips and overnights on my Atlantis. The 
> best front load solution I found was a Wald basket that I could clamp on 
> the handlebar and zip-tie to the Nitto mini front. Anchoring the basket 
> between the bar and rack made for a solid connection. Everything that I 
> didn't want in the basket went on the back.

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[RBW] Re: pre-ordered a blue Sam Hillborne a few minutes ago

[newenglandbike]

Hi Mike,

I just use a triple derailleur, and have adjusted the screws so that it 
doesn't shift past the middle ring. For chain length I use the middle 
ring and largest rear cog +2 links, and that seems to work OK. The 
stock 40/32 of the QB crank may not give you the full range you want but it 
is not awful.When it came time for new rings I went with a 28t small 
ring.   If running 700c wheels with fat tires you may not even need 40t on 
the 'big' (middle) ring and could go to a 36/26 or something.Anyway 
it's great to hop on the bike and not worry about tying up your pant leg 
all the time.The guard also slides right over small fallen trees.

-Matt.


On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 9:36:41 AM UTC-4, Mike wrote:
>
>
> On Apr 18, 12:14 am, newenglandbike  wrote: 
> > I've been using the quickbeam crank on my bombadil for years, and have 
> been 
> > slowly updating my other bikes with the same. The big ring on a 
> triple 
> > has only ever been a dysfunctional, pant-leg eating guard for me 
> > anyway. Might as well have a real guard there :) 
> > 
> > Matt 
>
>
> More and more this set-up is making sense to me. I have a pair of VO 
> 50.4 BCD cranks on my rando bike and while I love the 46/30 rings I 
> just don't like the cranks. Set-up is a bit tricky as it's much easier 
> to have issues with chainline and the crank arms hitting the chain due 
> to the design. Why they didn't update the design a bit, like Rene 
> Herse did, rather than just make a straight copy of the TA crank is 
> beyond me. Also, I don't know that I'm a van of the super low q- 
> factor. 
>
> I sold my QB a while back but kept the cranks. I may use them on my 
> Hilsen with an 8-spd 11-32 cassette. Two questions: 
>
> 1) What derailer do I use? Double? Triple? 
>
> 2) Are there any issues I need to be aware of when using the big 
> (middle) ring and the lowest or highest gear? 
>
> I guess I have a third question, how do I determine chain length, just 
> wrap the chain around the big (middle) ring and lowest gear? 
>
> Thanks! 
>
> --mike 
>
>

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RE: [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

[Allingham II, Thomas J]

Not sure if this is perfectly responsive, but here's an Atlantis (mine) with a 
Nitto Big Front Rack:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815789426/in/set-72157624427413755

It worked very well on a tour with a Wald basket zip-tied on, a small Berthoud 
handlebar bag above (with the Klik-Fix handlebar mount -- mount without bag is 
here: 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815790104/in/set-72157624427413755/) 
and Arkel small panniers below.  Handled very nicely, though I may not be as 
sensitive to handling nuances as others on the list.

I believe I could have mounted without P-clamps, but the Paul brakes got in the 
way.  The picture shows where.


From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Darin G.
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:34 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

My Atlantis is built up and riding (gratuitous plug for Saturday Cycles in 
SLC).  An awesome dreadnaught of a bicycle.  I'm running a Nitto Mini-Front 
with a Berthoud bag and decaleur on the front.  I'm planning a tour and 
wondering what y'all use for a front touring rack.  I'm thinking of pulling the 
Mini off and going with the Nitto Big Front.  Seems the Berthoud bag would rest 
on it in fine, especially with the decaleur, and then I could hang the front 
panniers on as well.  But,...wondering if there is some other option where I 
could keep the Mini-Front and use some kind of clamp on low-rider (Tubus?  
Bruce Gordon?).  Is there a rack that would actually use the fork braze ons 
other than the Nitto?  Suggestions with illustrative photos appreciated.

D.G.

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[RBW] Re: pre-ordered a blue Sam Hillborne a few minutes ago

[newenglandbike]

PS I haven't had any problems using the big (middle) ring across all the 
cogs, but tend to prefer shifting down to the small ring when on the 
biggest 2 cogs.


On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 9:36:41 AM UTC-4, Mike wrote:
>
>
> On Apr 18, 12:14 am, newenglandbike  wrote: 
> > I've been using the quickbeam crank on my bombadil for years, and have 
> been 
> > slowly updating my other bikes with the same. The big ring on a 
> triple 
> > has only ever been a dysfunctional, pant-leg eating guard for me 
> > anyway. Might as well have a real guard there :) 
> > 
> > Matt 
>
>
> More and more this set-up is making sense to me. I have a pair of VO 
> 50.4 BCD cranks on my rando bike and while I love the 46/30 rings I 
> just don't like the cranks. Set-up is a bit tricky as it's much easier 
> to have issues with chainline and the crank arms hitting the chain due 
> to the design. Why they didn't update the design a bit, like Rene 
> Herse did, rather than just make a straight copy of the TA crank is 
> beyond me. Also, I don't know that I'm a van of the super low q- 
> factor. 
>
> I sold my QB a while back but kept the cranks. I may use them on my 
> Hilsen with an 8-spd 11-32 cassette. Two questions: 
>
> 1) What derailer do I use? Double? Triple? 
>
> 2) Are there any issues I need to be aware of when using the big 
> (middle) ring and the lowest or highest gear? 
>
> I guess I have a third question, how do I determine chain length, just 
> wrap the chain around the big (middle) ring and lowest gear? 
>
> Thanks! 
>
> --mike 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley

[Jay in Tel Aviv]

My usual commuting bag is a Carradice Super C, which is similar in
size to the Nelson and Camper but with plastic clips instead of straps
and buckles.
Much easier.

Jay


On Apr 18, 1:44 pm, doc  wrote:
> I found the Barley too small for day rides and went with the Pendle.
> For both bags I inserted hard plastic backing to help them maintain
> their shape (cut from cat litter tubs).  For both sprung and unsprung
> saddles, a Midlands bag support at $7.00 works great and keeps them
> from swaying, plus prevents them rubbing up against the backs of my
> thighs.
>
> I love the looks of the Carradice, but I wish they had different
> fasteners than the traditional buckles.  They can be cumbersome,
> especially in winter when wearing a pair of gloves.
>
> On Apr 17, 11:59 pm, charlie  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Thought of Barley until I purchased a Nelson Longflap...and glad I
> > did. The Barley would be too small except in ideal weather (for me) In
> > the summer I use a Banana bag for tools,tube, wallet and phone but in
> > the rainy Northwest I need capacity for rain gear and a change of
> > clothing etc. for the other nine months of the year. I imagine a
> > Barley would be a nice bag to leave on all year with perhaps another
> > (maybe a front bag) to supplement. I rack my Nelson now and am in the
> > process of building a spartan rack / bag support / light mount. This
> > rack will be made with the idea of adding and extension piece for a
> > full rack when I want to camp or whatever. Still working on the
> > design...with bags more is better when you actually want to carry
> > stuff. When you go big you find stuff to carry that you might actually
> > need or want to make cycling more enjoyable and less of a "stranded in
> > the middle of nowhere without what you need athletic event."   ; )
>
> > On Apr 17, 2:36 pm, Peter M  wrote:
>
> > > Thinking of getting a Carradice Barley saddlebag but wanted to ask if
> > > anyone here is running one currently and how they like it. Also do you
> > > need a bag support with this thing like the now discontinued Hupe, and
> > > will it work with a sprung Brooks like the B72? Thanks to any help
> > > anyone can offer.

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Re: [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

[William]

Tom, why must you always taunt me with your pewter Atlantis?  The tax 
return could buy it, and the build kit is 100% in place (including Nitto 
Big Front and Rear racks).  The only thing I'm missing is cloth bar tape 
(thanks in part to you), and the blasted frameset.  But the family unit 
won't approve it.  Torture.  

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 6:56:22 AM UTC-7, Pudge wrote:
>
>  Not sure if this is perfectly responsive, but here's an Atlantis (mine) 
> with a Nitto Big Front Rack: 
>  
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815789426/in/set-72157624427413755 
>  
> It worked very well on a tour with a Wald basket zip-tied on, a small 
> Berthoud handlebar bag above (with the Klik-Fix handlebar mount -- mount 
> without bag is here: 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815790104/in/set-72157624427413755/)
>  
> and Arkel small panniers below.  Handled very nicely, though I may not be 
> as sensitive to handling nuances as others on the list.
>  
> I believe I could have mounted without P-clamps, but the Paul brakes got 
> in the way.  The picture shows where.
>
>  --
> *From:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:
> rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Darin G.
> *Sent:* Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:34 PM
> *To:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis
>
> My Atlantis is built up and riding (gratuitous plug for Saturday Cycles in 
> SLC).  An awesome dreadnaught of a bicycle.  I'm running a Nitto Mini-Front 
> with a Berthoud bag and decaleur on the front.  I'm planning a tour and 
> wondering what y'all use for a front touring rack.  I'm thinking of pulling 
> the Mini off and going with the Nitto Big Front.  Seems the Berthoud bag 
> would rest on it in fine, especially with the decaleur, and then I could 
> hang the front panniers on as well.  But,...wondering if there is some 
> other option where I could keep the Mini-Front and use some kind of clamp 
> on low-rider (Tubus?  Bruce Gordon?).  Is there a rack that would actually 
> use the fork braze ons other than the Nitto?  Suggestions with illustrative 
> photos appreciated. 
>
> D.G.
>
> -- 
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>  
> 
>
> To ensure compliance with Treasury Department regulations, we advise you 
> that, unless otherwise expressly indicated, any federal tax advice 
> contained in this message was not intended or written to be used, and 
> cannot be used, for the purpose of (i) avoiding tax-related penalties under 
> the Internal Revenue Code or applicable state or local tax law provisions 
> or (ii) promoting, marketing or recommending to another party any 
> tax-related matters addressed herein.
> 
> 
>
> This email (and any attachments thereto) is intended only for use by the 
> addressee(s) named herein and may contain legally privileged and/or 
> confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient of this 
> email, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or 
> copying of this email (and any attachments thereto) is strictly prohibited. 
> If you receive this email in error please immediately notify me at (212) 
> 735-3000 and permanently delete the original email (and any copy of any 
> email) and any printout thereof.
>
> Further information about the firm, a list of the Partners and their 
> professional qualifications will be provided upon request.
> 
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>  
>
>

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RE: [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

[Allingham II, Thomas J]

If I could just finish my $%*&%^#@^$% Rohloff-equipped 
Bombadil, maybe I'd sell you the Atlantis.  But I haven't been able to make it 
work to my satisfaction.

I haven't yet taped the bars on my SimpleOne, though -- if you need the orange 
tape back (it's not available any more, right?), I'd be delighted to sell it 
back to you at an appropriately inflated price.  ;-)

Seriously, I like that color, but if you're pining for it, let me know, and 
I'll shoot it back across our great nation.  I'm probably going to tape the 
bars on that bike tonight.


From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of William
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:26 AM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

Tom, why must you always taunt me with your pewter Atlantis?  The tax return 
could buy it, and the build kit is 100% in place (including Nitto Big Front and 
Rear racks).  The only thing I'm missing is cloth bar tape (thanks in part to 
you), and the blasted frameset.  But the family unit won't approve it.  Torture.

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 6:56:22 AM UTC-7, Pudge wrote:
Not sure if this is perfectly responsive, but here's an Atlantis (mine) with a 
Nitto Big Front Rack:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815789426/in/set-72157624427413755

It worked very well on a tour with a Wald basket zip-tied on, a small Berthoud 
handlebar bag above (with the Klik-Fix handlebar mount -- mount without bag is 
here: 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815790104/in/set-72157624427413755/) 
and Arkel small panniers below.  Handled very nicely, though I may not be as 
sensitive to handling nuances as others on the list.

I believe I could have mounted without P-clamps, but the Paul brakes got in the 
way.  The picture shows where.


From: 
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com]
 On Behalf Of Darin G.
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:34 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

My Atlantis is built up and riding (gratuitous plug for Saturday Cycles in 
SLC).  An awesome dreadnaught of a bicycle.  I'm running a Nitto Mini-Front 
with a Berthoud bag and decaleur on the front.  I'm planning a tour and 
wondering what y'all use for a front touring rack.  I'm thinking of pulling the 
Mini off and going with the Nitto Big Front.  Seems the Berthoud bag would rest 
on it in fine, especially with the decaleur, and then I could hang the front 
panniers on as well.  But,...wondering if there is some other option where I 
could keep the Mini-Front and use some kind of clamp on low-rider (Tubus?  
Bruce Gordon?).  Is there a rack that would actually use the fork braze ons 
other than the Nitto?  Suggestions with illustrative photos appreciated.

D.G.

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To ensure compliance with Treasury Department regulations, we advise you that, 
unless otherwise expressly indicated, any federal tax advice contained in this 
message was not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for the 
purpose of (i) avoiding tax-related penalties under the Internal Revenue Code 
or applicable state or local tax law provisions or (ii) promoting, marketing or 
recommending to another party any tax-related matters addressed herein.



This email (and any attachments thereto) is intended only for use by the 
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you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this 
email (and any attachments thereto) is strictly prohibited. If you receive this 
email in error please immediately notify me at (212) 735-3000 and permanently 
delete the original email (and any copy of any email) and any printout thereof.

Further information about the firm, a list of the Partners and their 
professional qualificati

RE: [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

[Allingham II, Thomas J]

sorry all, meant to reply off list


From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Allingham II, Thomas J
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:32 AM
To: 'rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com'
Subject: RE: [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

If I could just finish my $%*&%^#@^$% Rohloff-equipped 
Bombadil, maybe I'd sell you the Atlantis.  But I haven't been able to make it 
work to my satisfaction.

I haven't yet taped the bars on my SimpleOne, though -- if you need the orange 
tape back (it's not available any more, right?), I'd be delighted to sell it 
back to you at an appropriately inflated price.  ;-)

Seriously, I like that color, but if you're pining for it, let me know, and 
I'll shoot it back across our great nation.  I'm probably going to tape the 
bars on that bike tonight.


From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of William
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:26 AM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

Tom, why must you always taunt me with your pewter Atlantis?  The tax return 
could buy it, and the build kit is 100% in place (including Nitto Big Front and 
Rear racks).  The only thing I'm missing is cloth bar tape (thanks in part to 
you), and the blasted frameset.  But the family unit won't approve it.  Torture.

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 6:56:22 AM UTC-7, Pudge wrote:
Not sure if this is perfectly responsive, but here's an Atlantis (mine) with a 
Nitto Big Front Rack:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815789426/in/set-72157624427413755

It worked very well on a tour with a Wald basket zip-tied on, a small Berthoud 
handlebar bag above (with the Klik-Fix handlebar mount -- mount without bag is 
here: 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815790104/in/set-72157624427413755/) 
and Arkel small panniers below.  Handled very nicely, though I may not be as 
sensitive to handling nuances as others on the list.

I believe I could have mounted without P-clamps, but the Paul brakes got in the 
way.  The picture shows where.


From: 
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com]
 On Behalf Of Darin G.
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:34 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

My Atlantis is built up and riding (gratuitous plug for Saturday Cycles in 
SLC).  An awesome dreadnaught of a bicycle.  I'm running a Nitto Mini-Front 
with a Berthoud bag and decaleur on the front.  I'm planning a tour and 
wondering what y'all use for a front touring rack.  I'm thinking of pulling the 
Mini off and going with the Nitto Big Front.  Seems the Berthoud bag would rest 
on it in fine, especially with the decaleur, and then I could hang the front 
panniers on as well.  But,...wondering if there is some other option where I 
could keep the Mini-Front and use some kind of clamp on low-rider (Tubus?  
Bruce Gordon?).  Is there a rack that would actually use the fork braze ons 
other than the Nitto?  Suggestions with illustrative photos appreciated.

D.G.

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Re: [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

[William]

Thanks Tom, but you forget I need a 58.  Your 61 is all the more 
unattainably irresistable for that reason.  

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 7:32:19 AM UTC-7, Pudge wrote:
>
>  If I could just finish my* *$%*&%^#@^$% Rohloff-equipped Bombadil, maybe 
> I'd sell you the Atlantis.  But I haven't been able to make it work to my 
> satisfaction.  
>  
> I haven't yet taped the bars on my SimpleOne, though -- if you need the 
> orange tape back (it's not available any more, right?), I'd be delighted to 
> sell it back to you at an appropriately inflated price.  ;-)
>  
> Seriously, I like that color, but if you're pining for it, let me know, 
> and I'll shoot it back across our great nation.  I'm probably going to tape 
> the bars on that bike tonight.
>
>  --
> *From:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:
> rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *William
> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:26 AM
> *To:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis
>
> Tom, why must you always taunt me with your pewter Atlantis?  The tax 
> return could buy it, and the build kit is 100% in place (including Nitto 
> Big Front and Rear racks).  The only thing I'm missing is cloth bar tape 
> (thanks in part to you), and the blasted frameset.  But the family unit 
> won't approve it.  Torture.  
>
> On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 6:56:22 AM UTC-7, Pudge wrote: 
>>
>>  Not sure if this is perfectly responsive, but here's an Atlantis (mine) 
>> with a Nitto Big Front Rack: 
>>  
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815789426/in/set-72157624427413755
>>  
>>  
>> It worked very well on a tour with a Wald basket zip-tied on, a small 
>> Berthoud handlebar bag above (with the Klik-Fix handlebar mount -- mount 
>> without bag is here: 
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815790104/in/set-72157624427413755/)
>>  
>> and Arkel small panniers below.  Handled very nicely, though I may not be 
>> as sensitive to handling nuances as others on the list.
>>  
>> I believe I could have mounted without P-clamps, but the Paul brakes got 
>> in the way.  The picture shows where.
>>
>>  --
>> *From:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:
>> rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Darin G.
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:34 PM
>> *To:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
>> *Subject:* [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis
>>
>> My Atlantis is built up and riding (gratuitous plug for Saturday Cycles 
>> in SLC).  An awesome dreadnaught of a bicycle.  I'm running a Nitto 
>> Mini-Front with a Berthoud bag and decaleur on the front.  I'm planning a 
>> tour and wondering what y'all use for a front touring rack.  I'm thinking 
>> of pulling the Mini off and going with the Nitto Big Front.  Seems the 
>> Berthoud bag would rest on it in fine, especially with the decaleur, and 
>> then I could hang the front panniers on as well.  But,...wondering if there 
>> is some other option where I could keep the Mini-Front and use some kind of 
>> clamp on low-rider (Tubus?  Bruce Gordon?).  Is there a rack that would 
>> actually use the fork braze ons other than the Nitto?  Suggestions with 
>> illustrative photos appreciated. 
>>
>> D.G.
>>
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>>  
>> 
>>
>> To ensure compliance with Treasury Department regulations, we advise you 
>> that, unless otherwise expressly indicated, any federal tax advice 
>> contained in this message was not intended or written to be used, and 
>> cannot be used, for the purpose of (i) avoiding tax-related penalties under 
>> the Internal Revenue Code or applicable state or local tax law provisions 
>> or (ii) promoting, marketing or recommending to another party any 
>> tax-related matters addressed herein.
>> 
>> 
>>
>> This email (and any attachments thereto) is intended only for use by the 
>> addressee(s) named herein and may contain legally privileged and/or 
>> confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient of this 
>> email, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or 
>> copying of this email (and any attachments thereto) is strictly prohibited. 
>> If you receive this email in error please immediat

[RBW] Re: Platrack In Back

[Peter Pesce]

Thomas-

I was thinking the same thing myself. The Mark's rack comes with a 
additional pair of shorter, bent stays - if you look on the Riv site the 
photo of the rack installed in the rear is using these stays on the upper 
hourglass mounts. I don't recall my rack coming with the additional set of 
draw bolts, but per the Riv site they do, so mine must be in the parts box 
somewhere!

-Pete

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 7:36:52 AM UTC-4, Thomas Lynn Skean wrote:
>
> This I too shall try! Rhetorical question: perhaps there's a way of doing 
> it without the diving board?
>
> Yours,
> Thomas Lynn Skean
>

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[RBW] Re: Platrack In Back

[Peter Pesce]

... although, looking at the photo again, it appears that the Platrack 
bolts occupy the holes that the upper stays would use. The draw bolts might 
be long enough to go through both the MR and PR tabs... not sure.

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 11:00:25 AM UTC-4, Peter Pesce wrote:
>
> Thomas-
>
> I was thinking the same thing myself. The Mark's rack comes with a 
> additional pair of shorter, bent stays - if you look on the Riv site the 
> photo of the rack installed in the rear is using these stays on the upper 
> hourglass mounts. I don't recall my rack coming with the additional set of 
> draw bolts, but per the Riv site they do, so mine must be in the parts box 
> somewhere!
>
> -Pete
>
> On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 7:36:52 AM UTC-4, Thomas Lynn Skean wrote:
>>
>> This I too shall try! Rhetorical question: perhaps there's a way of doing 
>> it without the diving board?
>>
>> Yours,
>> Thomas Lynn Skean
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Albatross OR Bosco

[Christian]

Thanks a lot for the thoughts on the bars.  I now much better understand 
the differences.  

Best wishes,

Christian 

On Friday, April 13, 2012 8:21:51 AM UTC-4, Christian wrote:
>
> Hi everyone 
>
> I am in the market for a new set of bars.  I'd like to get either the 
> Bosco or the Albatross.  I've been following the progress of the Bosco and 
> have duly noted the high praise the Albatrosses receive.  I am sure I'd be 
> happy with either one.  But I wonder if someone could help me figure out 
> what the Bosco does that the Albatross does not do and vice versa.  Of 
> course from photos they do appear different yet they also fill a similar 
> need.  Thoughts?  
>
> If anyone has Albatrosses they're thinking of selling or trading let me 
> know--a long shot, to be sure.  I've got some newish Salsa Cowbells and a 
> some used On One Midges.  
>
> Thanks,
>
> Christian  
>

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[RBW] Re: pre-ordered a blue Sam Hillborne a few minutes ago

[Mike]

Thanks for the info Matt.

And to the original poster, I didn't mean to hijack the thread.
Congrats on the new bike. I'm sure you'll love it. Be sure to post
pictures once it arrives.

--mike

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[RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley

[Jim M.]

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 3:48:29 AM UTC-7, newenglandbike wrote:
>
> Another vote for the barley being a tad small.Good bag, but other than 
> tools/spare tube and a sweater you're not fitting much in there. For 
> Carradice, my faves are the camper and camper longflap.BUT you should 
> take a long hard look at a Saddlesack Medium or Large.   Those bags 
> combined with a nitto top rack are ridiculously useful and well designed.
>

In my experience the Barley is the perfect size for all day explores. I had 
a medium Saddlesack; it's a great bag but I found it much bigger than I 
would need for less than several days out. I pack light and live in N. 
California, which has some weather but generally nothing too extreme. I use 
a Hupe, but it's to keep the bag back; I don't need it for tire clearance.

jim m
wc ca

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[RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?

[pam]

Which one  is the shifter bolt?  If I ask the LBS will they know which
one it is?  I do have the Silver shifters.  It is a 8 speed.  It only
skips occasionally - twice in 14 miles.  It's more an annoyance since
there are no squeaks or rattles otherwise.
Thanks,
Pam

On Apr 17, 8:07 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:
> If it's skipping around the rear cluster with Silver shifters, I'd suggest
> making sure the shifter bolt is tight. Also, I find that these shifters are
> at their best with 7/8sp cassettes or freewheels. With 9sp, the ratcheting
> is too imprecise for my tastes, but others report apparently satisfactory
> performance.
>
> Otherwise, try to soft-pedal when shifting, shift before you NEED to shift,
> and try to shift gracefully and in a controlled way rather than slamming
> the shifter into position with a wild motion. Probably nobody has discussed
> the finer points of the process because there isn't much to discuss. It's
> pretty unsophisticated (don't tell anyone).
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 6:45:28 PM UTC-5, Zack wrote:
>
> > FD was from Riv, I had them do the setup last year when I got the bike.
>
> > It would surprise me if I had already worn out either a chainring or a
> > casette, only rode the Sam for the end of the summer until now, less than
> > 1,000 miles I would imagine.
>
> > slipping on the cogs, not the rings.
>
> > have read the sheldon article on chains, and also the one on chain slip.
> >  I tried some grease underneath the bb to see if that will help.
>
> > was just more interested in riding tips than troubleshooting the derailer
> > stuff, as I have seen lots of tips on the derailers but not much on the
> > riding.
>
> > On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:44:51 PM UTC-4, Zack wrote:
>
> >> I noticed a discussion cropping up in the "New Chain Skipping" thread
> >> that I thought it would be worthwhile to dedicate a thread to this, as I
> >> have been thinking about it a bit -
>
> >> I am a relatively new bike rider, and change gears as it makes sense to
> >> me - when i feel like i need more speed, i shift, when i feel like i am not
> >> going to be able to get up the hill, i shift.
>
> >> But I never really learned the "right" way to do this.  I have learned a
> >> little about friction shifting just from poking around (lightening up on
> >> the cranks when I am about to shift, as an example) but haven't seen a
> >> dedicated thread to this, nor have I found a good resource.  I know for
> >> many of you this is intuitive basic stuff, but I never learned how to ride
> >> a bike from anyone that actually knew what they are doing.
>
> >> I generally stay in the middle ring on my front chainring (I have a
> >> triple) and use all of the back gears until I need more, and then I shift
> >> to either the big or small chainring.  I am cognizant of cross gearing, but
> >> am probably guilty of doing it once in a while.
>
> >> I have consistently had problems with chains slipping, throwing chains
> >> (both off the big and granny rings) across multiple bikes, which leads me
> >> to believe I am part of the problem.
>
> >> So how do you ride to ensure that you are treating the bike the way it
> >> should be treated?

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[RBW] Small Betty

[pam]

Just wondering if anyone has an old Betty that you don't want.  My
daughter likes mine so much that she wants one.

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[RBW] Re: FS: 59cm Bleriot

[pam]

I'd buy it if it was my size.  I'm short.  I have a 47 cm Betty.

On Mar 27, 8:06 pm, Kris  wrote:
> My Bleriot is just not getting ridden enough and the poor guy is
> hanging on a hook all day.  I am the original owner and purchased
> directly from QBP when I worked at a shop.  I am only selling to
> finance the purchase of a Salsa Fargo.
>
> I am the original owner and it's in great condition.  It has the usual
> nicks but no significant scratches.  The Honjo fenders have some
> dings, but still look great!  There's some wear on the head badge as
> well.
>
> Build;
> 59 cm Bleriot frame and fork
> Shimano 600 headset
> Nitto Randonneur bar
> Nitto Technomic 110 stem
> Shimano R600 50/34 cranks
> Shimano Ultegra FD
> Shimano 105 RD
> Shimano Dura Ace bar end shifters
> Tektro R556 side pull calipers
> Cane Creek brake levers
> Shimano LX/Velocity Synergy wheel set
> Nifty Swifty Tires
> Honjo Fenders
> Campagnolo Athena seatpost
>
> No pedals, saddle or cassette (which was used on my main road bike)
>
> $1300 + shipping - pics available for those interested.  I'm in
> Asheville, NC if someone local is interested.

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[RBW] Needed: Silver shifter square washer or replacement shifter

[PATRICK MOORE]

Am interested in trading for or buying, in order of preference: Silver
shifter square washer; replacement shifter mech minus pod; replacement
shifter mech with pod.

Thanks.

-- 

-
Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
-

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.

Ranier Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 59cm Bleriot

[PATRICK MOORE]

Yanking this thread violently in my own direction: RANT: about people
who, when they see a FS post, immediately scream, "OH! I wannit! I
wannit!!!" And then, after you patient answer questions and send
photos, disappear into the neant.

I don't mind people backing out. I've done it myself a few times. What
I mind is the rudeness that doesn't bother to ask, "I've changed my
mind -- do you mind?" and simply slinks off into the outer darkness
without another word. The few times I've backed out, I always ask if
the seller will permit me to do so and I append an offer to follow
through with the purchase if the seller insists. My request to change
my mind has not been turned down and the sellers all have seemed
willing to let me back out. I do this only rarely; usually, even when
I have second thoughts I go through with the promise to pay and
purchase.

Note: I believe that backing out of a commitment to buy even after
asking and being granted permission is at least slightly flakey, so I
am guilty thus far of flakiness myself, but just disappearing is not
excusable.

This does not happen only on the RBW list, of course, it's all over,
but it is damn'd rude!

Rant over; back to your regular programming.

On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 5:56 AM, Kris  wrote:
> Still available...thanks to an individual who appears to have flaked out the
> bike is now boxed and ready to ship.
>
> $1300 + shipping.
>
-

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.

Ranier Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory

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Re: [RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley

[PATRICK MOORE]

+1 for the SQR. I've owned at least three, probably more, and have
sold them all after (cyclically) going back to rack+panniers, but I
agree that for a QR mount, for a saddle that does not have saddlebag
strap slots, and for bikes where you need to hold the bag high to gain
more clearance over the rear tire, the SQR is the best solution I've
found.

Note that it does have a 10 kg/22 lb weight limit (per Carradice).
Note also that you can, if you are careful and fastidious about
pulling the straps as tight as you can, easily mount a saddlebag on
the rails of a non-Brooks saddle -- the Hoss on my trike is so mounted
and carries 30 lb loads easily and well.

On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 3:55 PM, Michael Hechmer  wrote:
> Carradice Barley and the Acorn Boxy Rando Bag are my two main bags.  You can
> fit an amazing amount of stuff into a Barley Bag.  I use mine with the
> Carradice SQR, which I also really like but I think if your bike is tall
> enough with enough seatpost to keep the bag off the fender or tire I  you
> could get along without a support.  Carradice makes a bag support that
> attaches to the saddle rails but I'm not sure if that would work with a
> sprung saddle, and some people have reported difficulty keeping it tight..
>  The SQR attaches to the seat post and is absolutely the quickest on & off
> the bike you can get.  I have an extra seat post attachment so I can move
> the bag between bikes.  Harris Cycles carries all the parts.  BTW, the
> Carradice site could lead you to believe that the SQR goes with an SQR
> designed bag; that's not true, almost any bag with saddle & seatpost straps
> will work.   It does allow some back and forth movement which I notice while
> climbing standing up, but there is no lateral movement at all.
>
> Short answer... a great bag.
>
> Michael
>
>
> On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 5:36:31 PM UTC-4, Peter M wrote:
>>
>> Thinking of getting a Carradice Barley saddlebag but wanted to ask if
>> anyone here is running one currently and how they like it. Also do you
>> need a bag support with this thing like the now discontinued Hupe, and
>> will it work with a sprung Brooks like the B72? Thanks to any help
>> anyone can offer.
>
> --
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-
Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
-

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.

Ranier Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory

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[RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley

[Greg J]

Peter, 

Only you can decide whether it is too small for your intended purpose.  I 
have a Barley, a Lowsaddle Longflap, and a Nelson LF, and they all have 
different uses.  The Barley is good for a day trip to bring extra clothing, 
some food, books, etc.  Not really for carrying groceries or such.  But, 
you will likely not need a rack or other support for it.  It is small 
enough that if you ride a bike bigger than 52 or so, it probably won't rub 
the tire, and because of its size, you will probably not load it too 
heavily.

I ride ~54 bikes, and I use a SQR for my LSLF.

Greg

On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 2:36:31 PM UTC-7, Peter M wrote:
>
> Thinking of getting a Carradice Barley saddlebag but wanted to ask if 
> anyone here is running one currently and how they like it. Also do you 
> need a bag support with this thing like the now discontinued Hupe, and 
> will it work with a sprung Brooks like the B72? Thanks to any help 
> anyone can offer.

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[RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?

[Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery]

It's the little loop bolt that attaches the shifter to the frame or to the 
bar-end pod. You can tighten it with your fingers. Your LBS will know 
exactly what to do, if you ask.

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 11:03:25 AM UTC-5, pam wrote:
>
> Which one  is the shifter bolt?  If I ask the LBS will they know which 
> one it is?  I do have the Silver shifters.  It is a 8 speed.  It only 
> skips occasionally - twice in 14 miles.  It's more an annoyance since 
> there are no squeaks or rattles otherwise. 
> Thanks, 
> Pam 
>
> On Apr 17, 8:07 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery  
> wrote: 
> > If it's skipping around the rear cluster with Silver shifters, I'd 
> suggest 
> > making sure the shifter bolt is tight. Also, I find that these shifters 
> are 
> > at their best with 7/8sp cassettes or freewheels. With 9sp, the 
> ratcheting 
> > is too imprecise for my tastes, but others report apparently 
> satisfactory 
> > performance. 
> > 
> > Otherwise, try to soft-pedal when shifting, shift before you NEED to 
> shift, 
> > and try to shift gracefully and in a controlled way rather than slamming 
> > the shifter into position with a wild motion. Probably nobody has 
> discussed 
> > the finer points of the process because there isn't much to discuss. 
> It's 
> > pretty unsophisticated (don't tell anyone). 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 6:45:28 PM UTC-5, Zack wrote: 
> > 
> > > FD was from Riv, I had them do the setup last year when I got the 
> bike. 
> > 
> > > It would surprise me if I had already worn out either a chainring or a 
> > > casette, only rode the Sam for the end of the summer until now, less 
> than 
> > > 1,000 miles I would imagine. 
> > 
> > > slipping on the cogs, not the rings. 
> > 
> > > have read the sheldon article on chains, and also the one on chain 
> slip. 
> > >  I tried some grease underneath the bb to see if that will help. 
> > 
> > > was just more interested in riding tips than troubleshooting the 
> derailer 
> > > stuff, as I have seen lots of tips on the derailers but not much on 
> the 
> > > riding. 
> > 
> > > On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:44:51 PM UTC-4, Zack wrote: 
> > 
> > >> I noticed a discussion cropping up in the "New Chain Skipping" thread 
> > >> that I thought it would be worthwhile to dedicate a thread to this, 
> as I 
> > >> have been thinking about it a bit - 
> > 
> > >> I am a relatively new bike rider, and change gears as it makes sense 
> to 
> > >> me - when i feel like i need more speed, i shift, when i feel like i 
> am not 
> > >> going to be able to get up the hill, i shift. 
> > 
> > >> But I never really learned the "right" way to do this.  I have 
> learned a 
> > >> little about friction shifting just from poking around (lightening up 
> on 
> > >> the cranks when I am about to shift, as an example) but haven't seen 
> a 
> > >> dedicated thread to this, nor have I found a good resource.  I know 
> for 
> > >> many of you this is intuitive basic stuff, but I never learned how to 
> ride 
> > >> a bike from anyone that actually knew what they are doing. 
> > 
> > >> I generally stay in the middle ring on my front chainring (I have a 
> > >> triple) and use all of the back gears until I need more, and then I 
> shift 
> > >> to either the big or small chainring.  I am cognizant of cross 
> gearing, but 
> > >> am probably guilty of doing it once in a while. 
> > 
> > >> I have consistently had problems with chains slipping, throwing 
> chains 
> > >> (both off the big and granny rings) across multiple bikes, which 
> leads me 
> > >> to believe I am part of the problem. 
> > 
> > >> So how do you ride to ensure that you are treating the bike the way 
> it 
> > >> should be treated?

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[RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?

[cyclotour...@gmail.com]

I have a bit of Goldilocks syndrome w/ tires. I know the perfect one has to 
be out there somewhere... I've run thousands of miles with Rollies/Tuffies 
and a few hundred w/ Grand Bois (both 27 and 30mm). The GBs feel absolutely 
divine. Like *nothing *else out there. But more goat head punctures than 
normal, and "chunks" were quickly being taken out of the tires. Just too 
delicate for *my *needs. The RP/RTs in comparison *feel *clunky and the RTs 
in particular are noticeably slower (non-scientific coasting test down my 
street). Over time the tread also separates from the casing, but that may 
be particular to my situation. 

To be honest, I haven't found a perfect tire smaller than 33.3mm. Both Jack 
Brown Greens and Pasela 35mm are absolutely fantastic for me, minus 
goathead protection (and that's w/ TourGuard tires). I just had a puncture 
last night from one of them. The JBs slow my steering a little bit on my 
go-fast bike built for 28mm, but that's the only issue I've had with them. 
I don't know if that's due to extra mass or change in pneumatic trail from 
the extra ~5mm.

In the end you're just going to have to put some $$$ out and try to find 
what works for you. If it doesn't fit your needs, you can easily re-sell 
the tires and try something else.

On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 12:55:06 PM UTC-7, Mojo wrote:
>
> Prompted by this thread I changed out the Rolly Poly/Ruffy Tuffy 
> front/rear combo on my road bike wheels to the pair of (what I have 
> considered to be special event) Grand Bois Cerf 28mm tires. I rode them for 
> 25 mountainy miles yesterday and enjoyed their feel immensely. Today I got 
> a front goathead flat. This is the 3rd flat I have had on these tires in 
> about a dozen rides. This is by far the worst flat record of any tire I 
> have used, ever. I understand I cannot say this will be the flat record for 
> me in the future or for you in your environment, but my faith in the tire 
> is shaken and it affects the enjoyment of my ride. I am putting more effort 
> into scanning the road or trying to stay off the dirtier portions of the 
> road instead of enjoying the view or thinking my deep thoughts. {~; 
> .
> When I got home I fixed the flat, pulled the GB Cerfs and replaced them 
> with the RP/RT combo. As I was changing them, I weighed them on my Park 
> digital spring scale. To the nearest ounce, the Cerf was 10oz, Rolly 
> Poly 11oz, Ruffy Tuffy 13oz, Jack Brown Green 33mm was 12-13oz. All of 
> these tires are made by Panasonic. Now I believe Jan Heine's rollout tire 
> comparisons are valid. But for me to flat every second or third ride is 
> just not worth the lower rolling resistance or an ounce or two of rotating 
> weight. 
>
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?

[Ryan Ray]

I'm a friction noob too but some things that helped me:


   - Move to a compact double. Seriously. I have one less gear I didn't 
   need anyway and I fiddle with my shifters 90% less. Anyone who says a 
   triple in front is just as easy as a double hash been riding bikes for a 
   very long time, or loves their set up so much they refuse to realize the 
   added complexity.
   - Know that even with brifters triples are annoying
   - Friction shifting can be like driving a manual. You learn to shift at 
   the right speed, at the right time. Faster is not best.
   - Shift less.
   - Good shifters are allot better than crappy ones. I have Shimanos which 
   are OK. I want Silvers which I tried the other day and liked allot better. 
   Old school Suntour Ratchets were good too.
   - A unified drivetrain helps. Some people can cobble together all softs 
   of parts and friction shift just fine. In fact it's the reason some people 
   prefer friction. I however found my all 8-speed set up to be nearly 
   flawless. I had lots of mis shifting with a mixed up drivetrain.
   - Rapid rise derailler. In hilly Seattle this really helps me shift 
   uphills.
   - Like everything: practice.
   - If you can over/under shift your chain off gears and you corrected 
   your adjustment screws then either* something is broken* or not set up 
   right. The older... *ahem* wiser folks can't remember how tricky adjustment 
   screws can be when first learning how to set this stuff up. It takes 
   practice or someone really showing you how to do it.

I hope any of this helps. It may be stuff that only worked for me but now I 
could never go back to indexed shifting.

- Ryan







On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 1:44:51 PM UTC-7, Zack wrote:
>
> I noticed a discussion cropping up in the "New Chain Skipping" thread that 
> I thought it would be worthwhile to dedicate a thread to this, as I have 
> been thinking about it a bit - 
>
> I am a relatively new bike rider, and change gears as it makes sense to me 
> - when i feel like i need more speed, i shift, when i feel like i am not 
> going to be able to get up the hill, i shift.  
>
> But I never really learned the "right" way to do this.  I have learned a 
> little about friction shifting just from poking around (lightening up on 
> the cranks when I am about to shift, as an example) but haven't seen a 
> dedicated thread to this, nor have I found a good resource.  I know for 
> many of you this is intuitive basic stuff, but I never learned how to ride 
> a bike from anyone that actually knew what they are doing.
>
> I generally stay in the middle ring on my front chainring (I have a 
> triple) and use all of the back gears until I need more, and then I shift 
> to either the big or small chainring.  I am cognizant of cross gearing, but 
> am probably guilty of doing it once in a while.
>
> I have consistently had problems with chains slipping, throwing chains 
> (both off the big and granny rings) across multiple bikes, which leads me 
> to believe I am part of the problem.
>
> So how do you ride to ensure that you are treating the bike the way it 
> should be treated?
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Small Betty

[cyclotour...@gmail.com]

Smart kid!

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 9:05:30 AM UTC-7, pam wrote:
>
> Just wondering if anyone has an old Betty that you don't want.  My 
> daughter likes mine so much that she wants one.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Arkel bags and Dapper Dan grips

[Thomas Lynn Skean]

Hi!

Dapper Dan light are gone
 
still available are
 
Arkel Big Bar Bag
Dapper Dan dark

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

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[RBW] Re: Needed: Silver shifter square washer or replacement shifter

[William]

When you say pod, that tells me you are asking about Silver Shifters in the 
barcon configuration.  The square washer for a barcon configuration and the 
square washer for a downtube configuration are two different things, so you 
should specify in your request.  Although the downtube version is soft 
aluminum and can be easily filed down to resemble the barcon version.  

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 9:08:04 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Am interested in trading for or buying, in order of preference: Silver
> shifter square washer; replacement shifter mech minus pod; replacement
> shifter mech with pod.
>
> Thanks.
>
> -- 
>
> -
> Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM
> For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
> -
>
> A billion stars go spinning through the night
> Blazing high above your head;
> But in you is the Presence that will be
> When all the stars are dead.
>
> Ranier Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory
>
>

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[RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?

[Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery]

MichaelH illustrates how little difference it makes. Three minutes is his 
largest variation in his 18 mile ride on a variety of different tires with 
different bikes, and that variation wasn't even reproducible in a second 
trial. I spent seven years in grad school doing science, so I can see that 
there are confounding factors in Michael's research that muddy the waters. 
But his over all consistency from tire to tire and bike to bike suggests 
(if not proves) that tire differences play much less role than, say, the 
rider's day to day energy level and attitude, wind direction, and countless 
other factors. Comparing one lightweight 700x28 tire to another is really 
splitting hairs. 

On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 7:16:05 PM UTC-5, MichaelH wrote:
>
> Another single data point.
>
> Along with the post on where the Rambouillet fit in the Riv line up, I 
> rode an 18 mile loop from my home on my Ram with a pair of Continental GP4, 
> 23 mm tires.  (A gift).  The course has 900 feet of climbing and includes 
> 4-5 miles of dirt roads, with the rest equally divided among good pavement, 
> bad pavement, and atrocious pavement.  After the ride I recorded my time & 
> subjective impressions (painful).  I also discovered a cut  in the sidewall 
> of the rear tire, so I decide to replicate the ride with a variety of bikes 
> and ties.  I rode it twice on my Ebisu with Jack Browns.  The first ride 
> was 3 minutes slower but the second was identical, although a lot more 
> comfortable. I rode it once with my Trek & T Serve  (30mm actual).  My time 
> was right between the faster and slower rides & the comfort just a nudge 
> below the JB.  Now the wind has shifted around from the south to the west ( 
> it has been blowing at 20 -25 mph, making this very real world test) and 
> the dirt road has been graded, leaving it's surface full of rocks and loose 
> sand, so it's really hard going now.  Hard to make comparisons.  I'm in 
> Boston for the weekend and heavy rain forecasted for next week so this test 
> will be suspended for a while.
>
> I'm not sure where this leaves me.  I'd like to put the Grand Bois Green 
> on my ram but am wondering if the perceived advantage is worth the added 
> flats.
>
> Michael
>
> On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:29:48 PM UTC-4, William wrote:
>>
>> I'm in the same boat with Pari-Motos.  I flat almost every ride with 
>> Pari-Motos, and almost never with anything else.  I've put them back on 
>> with Foss tubes to try again.  I like the ride of them, but the flat record 
>> is pretty bad for me.  For me it's been glass.  
>>
>> On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 12:55:06 PM UTC-7, Mojo wrote:
>>>
>>> Prompted by this thread I changed out the Rolly Poly/Ruffy Tuffy 
>>> front/rear combo on my road bike wheels to the pair of (what I have 
>>> considered to be special event) Grand Bois Cerf 28mm tires. I rode them for 
>>> 25 mountainy miles yesterday and enjoyed their feel immensely. Today I got 
>>> a front goathead flat. This is the 3rd flat I have had on these tires in 
>>> about a dozen rides. This is by far the worst flat record of any tire I 
>>> have used, ever. I understand I cannot say this will be the flat record for 
>>> me in the future or for you in your environment, but my faith in the tire 
>>> is shaken and it affects the enjoyment of my ride. I am putting more effort 
>>> into scanning the road or trying to stay off the dirtier portions of the 
>>> road instead of enjoying the view or thinking my deep thoughts. {~; 
>>> .
>>> When I got home I fixed the flat, pulled the GB Cerfs and replaced them 
>>> with the RP/RT combo. As I was changing them, I weighed them on my Park 
>>> digital spring scale. To the nearest ounce, the Cerf was 10oz, Rolly 
>>> Poly 11oz, Ruffy Tuffy 13oz, Jack Brown Green 33mm was 12-13oz. All of 
>>> these tires are made by Panasonic. Now I believe Jan Heine's rollout tire 
>>> comparisons are valid. But for me to flat every second or third ride is 
>>> just not worth the lower rolling resistance or an ounce or two of rotating 
>>> weight. 
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 59cm Bleriot

[Kris]

I've had 4 people who seemed genuinely interested;
 
1. read the RBW sizing bits, learned it wouldn't fit and let me know right 
away
2. couldn't come up with the funds and politely backed out
3. partner was attacked by a pit bull (!!) and had to back out for $$ and 
obvious reasons
 
all of the above are perfectly reasonable
 
4. agreed to pay set price, all set to end eBay auction, was "away from 
computer" and would pay in a few hours.THEN NOTHING...vanished into 
thin air!!  I even spent an hour boxing the bike!  Now I'll have to rebuild 
it to sell localUGH!!!  
 
You could write back and say"ya know I actually think the bike is ugly 
and 650b sucks" and I wouldn't care, but just write the stinking email!!  I 
don't know how people act like thisw/ gmail, Google+, FB, etc it's 
pretty easy to find them.
 
//end my rant
 
 

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 12:15:58 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:

> Yanking this thread violently in my own direction: RANT: about people
> who, when they see a FS post, immediately scream, "OH! I wannit! I
> wannit!!!" And then, after you patient answer questions and send
> photos, disappear into the neant. 
>
>  

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[RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?

[Ryan Ray]

You can say that every post on this group ever has been splitting hairs. 
It's part of the fun :)

- Ryan





On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:03:07 AM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
Cyclery wrote:
>
> MichaelH illustrates how little difference it makes. Three minutes is his 
> largest variation in his 18 mile ride on a variety of different tires with 
> different bikes, and that variation wasn't even reproducible in a second 
> trial. I spent seven years in grad school doing science, so I can see that 
> there are confounding factors in Michael's research that muddy the waters. 
> But his over all consistency from tire to tire and bike to bike suggests 
> (if not proves) that tire differences play much less role than, say, the 
> rider's day to day energy level and attitude, wind direction, and countless 
> other factors. Comparing one lightweight 700x28 tire to another is really 
> splitting hairs. 
>
> On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 7:16:05 PM UTC-5, MichaelH wrote:
>>
>> Another single data point.
>>
>> Along with the post on where the Rambouillet fit in the Riv line up, I 
>> rode an 18 mile loop from my home on my Ram with a pair of Continental GP4, 
>> 23 mm tires.  (A gift).  The course has 900 feet of climbing and includes 
>> 4-5 miles of dirt roads, with the rest equally divided among good pavement, 
>> bad pavement, and atrocious pavement.  After the ride I recorded my time & 
>> subjective impressions (painful).  I also discovered a cut  in the sidewall 
>> of the rear tire, so I decide to replicate the ride with a variety of bikes 
>> and ties.  I rode it twice on my Ebisu with Jack Browns.  The first ride 
>> was 3 minutes slower but the second was identical, although a lot more 
>> comfortable. I rode it once with my Trek & T Serve  (30mm actual).  My time 
>> was right between the faster and slower rides & the comfort just a nudge 
>> below the JB.  Now the wind has shifted around from the south to the west ( 
>> it has been blowing at 20 -25 mph, making this very real world test) and 
>> the dirt road has been graded, leaving it's surface full of rocks and loose 
>> sand, so it's really hard going now.  Hard to make comparisons.  I'm in 
>> Boston for the weekend and heavy rain forecasted for next week so this test 
>> will be suspended for a while.
>>
>> I'm not sure where this leaves me.  I'd like to put the Grand Bois Green 
>> on my ram but am wondering if the perceived advantage is worth the added 
>> flats.
>>
>> Michael
>>
>> On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:29:48 PM UTC-4, William wrote:
>>>
>>> I'm in the same boat with Pari-Motos.  I flat almost every ride with 
>>> Pari-Motos, and almost never with anything else.  I've put them back on 
>>> with Foss tubes to try again.  I like the ride of them, but the flat record 
>>> is pretty bad for me.  For me it's been glass.  
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 12:55:06 PM UTC-7, Mojo wrote:

 Prompted by this thread I changed out the Rolly Poly/Ruffy Tuffy 
 front/rear combo on my road bike wheels to the pair of (what I have 
 considered to be special event) Grand Bois Cerf 28mm tires. I rode them 
 for 
 25 mountainy miles yesterday and enjoyed their feel immensely. Today I got 
 a front goathead flat. This is the 3rd flat I have had on these tires in 
 about a dozen rides. This is by far the worst flat record of any tire I 
 have used, ever. I understand I cannot say this will be the flat record 
 for 
 me in the future or for you in your environment, but my faith in the tire 
 is shaken and it affects the enjoyment of my ride. I am putting more 
 effort 
 into scanning the road or trying to stay off the dirtier portions of the 
 road instead of enjoying the view or thinking my deep thoughts. {~; 
 .
 When I got home I fixed the flat, pulled the GB Cerfs and replaced them 
 with the RP/RT combo. As I was changing them, I weighed them on my Park 
 digital spring scale. To the nearest ounce, the Cerf was 10oz, Rolly 
 Poly 11oz, Ruffy Tuffy 13oz, Jack Brown Green 33mm was 12-13oz. All of 
 these tires are made by Panasonic. Now I believe Jan Heine's rollout tire 
 comparisons are valid. But for me to flat every second or third ride is 
 just not worth the lower rolling resistance or an ounce or two of rotating 
 weight. 

  

>>>

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[RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?

[William]

agreed.  Even Jan Heine admits that the perception of speed is far stronger 
than any measurable speed difference in this hair-splitting area.  He rides 
quality fat tires because he knows empirically that they are no slower at 
worst and slightly faster at best.  He concedes that narrow tires feel 
faster despite the measurable fact that they are not.  I remember that 
every time I see a post "I rode those tires for a while, but they were 
sluggish and slow".  19 times out of 20, that's a qualitative judgement, 
not a quantitative one.  

I've been tempted to ask Jan since going fast is fun (for the most part), 
but since going slow is safe (for the most part), shouldn't he run skinny 
tires, since they feel fast but are slow?  I know, I'm a jerk, and a smart 
aleck.  

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:03:07 AM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
Cyclery wrote:
>
> MichaelH illustrates how little difference it makes. Three minutes is his 
> largest variation in his 18 mile ride on a variety of different tires with 
> different bikes, and that variation wasn't even reproducible in a second 
> trial. I spent seven years in grad school doing science, so I can see that 
> there are confounding factors in Michael's research that muddy the waters. 
> But his over all consistency from tire to tire and bike to bike suggests 
> (if not proves) that tire differences play much less role than, say, the 
> rider's day to day energy level and attitude, wind direction, and countless 
> other factors. Comparing one lightweight 700x28 tire to another is really 
> splitting hairs. 
>
> On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 7:16:05 PM UTC-5, MichaelH wrote:
>>
>> Another single data point.
>>
>> Along with the post on where the Rambouillet fit in the Riv line up, I 
>> rode an 18 mile loop from my home on my Ram with a pair of Continental GP4, 
>> 23 mm tires.  (A gift).  The course has 900 feet of climbing and includes 
>> 4-5 miles of dirt roads, with the rest equally divided among good pavement, 
>> bad pavement, and atrocious pavement.  After the ride I recorded my time & 
>> subjective impressions (painful).  I also discovered a cut  in the sidewall 
>> of the rear tire, so I decide to replicate the ride with a variety of bikes 
>> and ties.  I rode it twice on my Ebisu with Jack Browns.  The first ride 
>> was 3 minutes slower but the second was identical, although a lot more 
>> comfortable. I rode it once with my Trek & T Serve  (30mm actual).  My time 
>> was right between the faster and slower rides & the comfort just a nudge 
>> below the JB.  Now the wind has shifted around from the south to the west ( 
>> it has been blowing at 20 -25 mph, making this very real world test) and 
>> the dirt road has been graded, leaving it's surface full of rocks and loose 
>> sand, so it's really hard going now.  Hard to make comparisons.  I'm in 
>> Boston for the weekend and heavy rain forecasted for next week so this test 
>> will be suspended for a while.
>>
>> I'm not sure where this leaves me.  I'd like to put the Grand Bois Green 
>> on my ram but am wondering if the perceived advantage is worth the added 
>> flats.
>>
>> Michael
>>
>> On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:29:48 PM UTC-4, William wrote:
>>>
>>> I'm in the same boat with Pari-Motos.  I flat almost every ride with 
>>> Pari-Motos, and almost never with anything else.  I've put them back on 
>>> with Foss tubes to try again.  I like the ride of them, but the flat record 
>>> is pretty bad for me.  For me it's been glass.  
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 12:55:06 PM UTC-7, Mojo wrote:

 Prompted by this thread I changed out the Rolly Poly/Ruffy Tuffy 
 front/rear combo on my road bike wheels to the pair of (what I have 
 considered to be special event) Grand Bois Cerf 28mm tires. I rode them 
 for 
 25 mountainy miles yesterday and enjoyed their feel immensely. Today I got 
 a front goathead flat. This is the 3rd flat I have had on these tires in 
 about a dozen rides. This is by far the worst flat record of any tire I 
 have used, ever. I understand I cannot say this will be the flat record 
 for 
 me in the future or for you in your environment, but my faith in the tire 
 is shaken and it affects the enjoyment of my ride. I am putting more 
 effort 
 into scanning the road or trying to stay off the dirtier portions of the 
 road instead of enjoying the view or thinking my deep thoughts. {~; 
 .
 When I got home I fixed the flat, pulled the GB Cerfs and replaced them 
 with the RP/RT combo. As I was changing them, I weighed them on my Park 
 digital spring scale. To the nearest ounce, the Cerf was 10oz, Rolly 
 Poly 11oz, Ruffy Tuffy 13oz, Jack Brown Green 33mm was 12-13oz. All of 
 these tires are made by Panasonic. Now I believe Jan Heine's rollout tire 
 comparisons are valid. But for me to flat every second or third ride is 
 just not worth the lower rolling resistance or an ounce or tw

[RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?

[cyclotour...@gmail.com]

It's what the interwebs were built for!


On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:07:07 AM UTC-7, HappyCamper wrote:
>
> You can say that every post on this group ever has been splitting hairs. 
> It's part of the fun :)
>
> - Ryan
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:03:07 AM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
> Cyclery wrote:
>>
>> MichaelH illustrates how little difference it makes. Three minutes is his 
>> largest variation in his 18 mile ride on a variety of different tires with 
>> different bikes, and that variation wasn't even reproducible in a second 
>> trial. I spent seven years in grad school doing science, so I can see that 
>> there are confounding factors in Michael's research that muddy the waters. 
>> But his over all consistency from tire to tire and bike to bike suggests 
>> (if not proves) that tire differences play much less role than, say, the 
>> rider's day to day energy level and attitude, wind direction, and countless 
>> other factors. Comparing one lightweight 700x28 tire to another is really 
>> splitting hairs. 
>>
>> On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 7:16:05 PM UTC-5, MichaelH wrote:
>>>
>>> Another single data point.
>>>
>>> Along with the post on where the Rambouillet fit in the Riv line up, I 
>>> rode an 18 mile loop from my home on my Ram with a pair of Continental GP4, 
>>> 23 mm tires.  (A gift).  The course has 900 feet of climbing and includes 
>>> 4-5 miles of dirt roads, with the rest equally divided among good pavement, 
>>> bad pavement, and atrocious pavement.  After the ride I recorded my time & 
>>> subjective impressions (painful).  I also discovered a cut  in the sidewall 
>>> of the rear tire, so I decide to replicate the ride with a variety of bikes 
>>> and ties.  I rode it twice on my Ebisu with Jack Browns.  The first ride 
>>> was 3 minutes slower but the second was identical, although a lot more 
>>> comfortable. I rode it once with my Trek & T Serve  (30mm actual).  My time 
>>> was right between the faster and slower rides & the comfort just a nudge 
>>> below the JB.  Now the wind has shifted around from the south to the west ( 
>>> it has been blowing at 20 -25 mph, making this very real world test) and 
>>> the dirt road has been graded, leaving it's surface full of rocks and loose 
>>> sand, so it's really hard going now.  Hard to make comparisons.  I'm in 
>>> Boston for the weekend and heavy rain forecasted for next week so this test 
>>> will be suspended for a while.
>>>
>>> I'm not sure where this leaves me.  I'd like to put the Grand Bois Green 
>>> on my ram but am wondering if the perceived advantage is worth the added 
>>> flats.
>>>
>>> Michael
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:29:48 PM UTC-4, William wrote:

 I'm in the same boat with Pari-Motos.  I flat almost every ride with 
 Pari-Motos, and almost never with anything else.  I've put them back on 
 with Foss tubes to try again.  I like the ride of them, but the flat 
 record 
 is pretty bad for me.  For me it's been glass.  

 On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 12:55:06 PM UTC-7, Mojo wrote:
>
> Prompted by this thread I changed out the Rolly Poly/Ruffy Tuffy 
> front/rear combo on my road bike wheels to the pair of (what I have 
> considered to be special event) Grand Bois Cerf 28mm tires. I rode them 
> for 
> 25 mountainy miles yesterday and enjoyed their feel immensely. Today I 
> got 
> a front goathead flat. This is the 3rd flat I have had on these tires in 
> about a dozen rides. This is by far the worst flat record of any tire I 
> have used, ever. I understand I cannot say this will be the flat record 
> for 
> me in the future or for you in your environment, but my faith in the tire 
> is shaken and it affects the enjoyment of my ride. I am putting more 
> effort 
> into scanning the road or trying to stay off the dirtier portions of the 
> road instead of enjoying the view or thinking my deep thoughts. {~; 
> .
> When I got home I fixed the flat, pulled the GB Cerfs and replaced 
> them with the RP/RT combo. As I was changing them, I weighed them on my 
> Park digital spring scale. To the nearest ounce, the Cerf was 10oz, Rolly 
> Poly 11oz, Ruffy Tuffy 13oz, Jack Brown Green 33mm was 12-13oz. All of 
> these tires are made by Panasonic. Now I believe Jan Heine's rollout tire 
> comparisons are valid. But for me to flat every second or third ride is 
> just not worth the lower rolling resistance or an ounce or two of 
> rotating 
> weight. 
>
>  
>


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[RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?

[William]

Perhaps we should develop our own quantitative metric for the narrowness of 
the hair being split?  Inspired by the well known engineering unit the RCH. 
 

SHPI -- splittable hairs per inch?  

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:07:07 AM UTC-7, HappyCamper wrote:
>
> You can say that every post on this group ever has been splitting hairs. 
> It's part of the fun :)
>
> - Ryan
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:03:07 AM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
> Cyclery wrote:
>>
>> MichaelH illustrates how little difference it makes. Three minutes is his 
>> largest variation in his 18 mile ride on a variety of different tires with 
>> different bikes, and that variation wasn't even reproducible in a second 
>> trial. I spent seven years in grad school doing science, so I can see that 
>> there are confounding factors in Michael's research that muddy the waters. 
>> But his over all consistency from tire to tire and bike to bike suggests 
>> (if not proves) that tire differences play much less role than, say, the 
>> rider's day to day energy level and attitude, wind direction, and countless 
>> other factors. Comparing one lightweight 700x28 tire to another is really 
>> splitting hairs. 
>>
>> On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 7:16:05 PM UTC-5, MichaelH wrote:
>>>
>>> Another single data point.
>>>
>>> Along with the post on where the Rambouillet fit in the Riv line up, I 
>>> rode an 18 mile loop from my home on my Ram with a pair of Continental GP4, 
>>> 23 mm tires.  (A gift).  The course has 900 feet of climbing and includes 
>>> 4-5 miles of dirt roads, with the rest equally divided among good pavement, 
>>> bad pavement, and atrocious pavement.  After the ride I recorded my time & 
>>> subjective impressions (painful).  I also discovered a cut  in the sidewall 
>>> of the rear tire, so I decide to replicate the ride with a variety of bikes 
>>> and ties.  I rode it twice on my Ebisu with Jack Browns.  The first ride 
>>> was 3 minutes slower but the second was identical, although a lot more 
>>> comfortable. I rode it once with my Trek & T Serve  (30mm actual).  My time 
>>> was right between the faster and slower rides & the comfort just a nudge 
>>> below the JB.  Now the wind has shifted around from the south to the west ( 
>>> it has been blowing at 20 -25 mph, making this very real world test) and 
>>> the dirt road has been graded, leaving it's surface full of rocks and loose 
>>> sand, so it's really hard going now.  Hard to make comparisons.  I'm in 
>>> Boston for the weekend and heavy rain forecasted for next week so this test 
>>> will be suspended for a while.
>>>
>>> I'm not sure where this leaves me.  I'd like to put the Grand Bois Green 
>>> on my ram but am wondering if the perceived advantage is worth the added 
>>> flats.
>>>
>>> Michael
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:29:48 PM UTC-4, William wrote:

 I'm in the same boat with Pari-Motos.  I flat almost every ride with 
 Pari-Motos, and almost never with anything else.  I've put them back on 
 with Foss tubes to try again.  I like the ride of them, but the flat 
 record 
 is pretty bad for me.  For me it's been glass.  

 On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 12:55:06 PM UTC-7, Mojo wrote:
>
> Prompted by this thread I changed out the Rolly Poly/Ruffy Tuffy 
> front/rear combo on my road bike wheels to the pair of (what I have 
> considered to be special event) Grand Bois Cerf 28mm tires. I rode them 
> for 
> 25 mountainy miles yesterday and enjoyed their feel immensely. Today I 
> got 
> a front goathead flat. This is the 3rd flat I have had on these tires in 
> about a dozen rides. This is by far the worst flat record of any tire I 
> have used, ever. I understand I cannot say this will be the flat record 
> for 
> me in the future or for you in your environment, but my faith in the tire 
> is shaken and it affects the enjoyment of my ride. I am putting more 
> effort 
> into scanning the road or trying to stay off the dirtier portions of the 
> road instead of enjoying the view or thinking my deep thoughts. {~; 
> .
> When I got home I fixed the flat, pulled the GB Cerfs and replaced 
> them with the RP/RT combo. As I was changing them, I weighed them on my 
> Park digital spring scale. To the nearest ounce, the Cerf was 10oz, Rolly 
> Poly 11oz, Ruffy Tuffy 13oz, Jack Brown Green 33mm was 12-13oz. All of 
> these tires are made by Panasonic. Now I believe Jan Heine's rollout tire 
> comparisons are valid. But for me to flat every second or third ride is 
> just not worth the lower rolling resistance or an ounce or two of 
> rotating 
> weight. 
>
>  
>


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[RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley

[Philip Williamson]

Hi Peter,
The Barley is the smallest Carradice bag. I use the Cadet, and think the 
Barley would be too small for me. 

I made some illustrations of the relative sizes of the smaller bags:
http://www.biketinker.com/2011/bike-resources/relative-sizes-of-smaller-carradice-bags/
 
The next size up from the Cadet (last shown), is the Nelson Lowsaddle, 
which adds side pockets.

 Philip

Philip Williamson
www.biketinker.com

On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 2:36:31 PM UTC-7, Peter M wrote:
>
> Thinking of getting a Carradice Barley saddlebag but wanted to ask if 
> anyone here is running one currently and how they like it. Also do you 
> need a bag support with this thing like the now discontinued Hupe, and 
> will it work with a sprung Brooks like the B72? Thanks to any help 
> anyone can offer.

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Re: [RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?

[Steve Palincsar]

On Wed, 2012-04-18 at 10:09 -0700, William wrote:

> 
> I've been tempted to ask Jan since going fast is fun (for the most
> part), but since going slow is safe (for the most part), shouldn't he
> run skinny tires, since they feel fast but are slow?  I know, I'm a
> jerk, and a smart aleck.  

Perhaps you missed these blog postings:

-http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/03/07/crossing-tracks-safely/
-http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/01/30/the-downsides-of-wide-tires/
-http://janheine.wordpress.com/2011/08/30/the-dangers-of-narrow-tires/



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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 59cm Bleriot

[Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery]

Believe it or not, there are a lot of flakes who are into bikes in the 
world. My fave was a guy who called several times to talk to me for a 
combined maybe 2+ hours about a Bleriot. I somehow let the word "Quickbeam" 
out of my mouth, and that got him to asking questions about that model. His 
questions carried the implication that he was going to buy a Bleriot from 
me. Anyway, after all that, maybe 2 weeks later, he called to thank me for 
my patience in answering his hundreds of neurotic questions, but informed 
me delightedly that he'd purchased it cheaper from one of the internet bike 
shops who was selling the Bleriot just over cost back in those days. Not to 
worry, he vowed to buy fenders from me. The conversation was ended, um, 
hastily. If it had happened in person rather than on the phone, I think I 
would have run him out the door with some forceful language and perhaps a 
kick in the pants. After that, I considered instituting a consulting fee, 
creditable toward whatever bike purchase may result, when I sensed the 
conversation was dragging on with no purchase in sight. But it seems bad 
form to ask for money just for talking to a customer...unless you're a 
lawyer or medical type.

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 12:06:35 PM UTC-5, Kris wrote:
>
> I've had 4 people who seemed genuinely interested;
>  
> 1. read the RBW sizing bits, learned it wouldn't fit and let me know right 
> away
> 2. couldn't come up with the funds and politely backed out
> 3. partner was attacked by a pit bull (!!) and had to back out for $$ and 
> obvious reasons
>  
> all of the above are perfectly reasonable
>  
> 4. agreed to pay set price, all set to end eBay auction, was "away from 
> computer" and would pay in a few hours.THEN NOTHING...vanished into 
> thin air!!  I even spent an hour boxing the bike!  Now I'll have to rebuild 
> it to sell localUGH!!!  
>  
> You could write back and say"ya know I actually think the bike is ugly 
> and 650b sucks" and I wouldn't care, but just write the stinking email!!  I 
> don't know how people act like thisw/ gmail, Google+, FB, etc it's 
> pretty easy to find them.
>  
> //end my rant
>  
>  
>
> On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 12:15:58 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Yanking this thread violently in my own direction: RANT: about people
>> who, when they see a FS post, immediately scream, "OH! I wannit! I
>> wannit!!!" And then, after you patient answer questions and send
>> photos, disappear into the neant. 
>>
>>  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Needed: Silver shifter square washer or replacement shifter

[Joe Broach]

On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 9:47 AM, William  wrote:
> When you say pod, that tells me you are asking about Silver Shifters in the
> barcon configuration.

Good point! I have spare left and right downtube square washers--the
ones with limit stops for the shifters.

> should specify in your request.  Although the downtube version is soft
> aluminum and can be easily filed down to resemble the barcon version.

Now I'm confused. Mine are steel, square holes, little limit stop
nubs, left and right side specific. There's nothing like them in my
bar end shifters.

Best,
joe broach
portland, or

> On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 9:08:04 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> Am interested in trading for or buying, in order of preference: Silver
>> shifter square washer; replacement shifter mech minus pod; replacement
>> shifter mech with pod.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> --
>>
>> -
>> Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM
>> For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
>> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
>> -
>>
>> A billion stars go spinning through the night
>> Blazing high above your head;
>> But in you is the Presence that will be
>> When all the stars are dead.
>>
>> Ranier Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory
>
> --
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>
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<>

[RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?

[Ryan Ray]

I like the term Just Noticeable Difference. Like a 2 degrees temperature 
difference. We could use NMD. Not Measurable Difference.

Example:"Wow! These Rolly Polys are 5 NMDs better than my Folding Pasela 
TGs!"

- Ryan

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[RBW] Re: Platrack In Back

[Thomas Lynn Skean]

Hmmm... Perhaps I should make all my questions rhetorical! :)

Yep, those are among the concerns I had. I may give it a try this weekend.

I like the fact that RBW and at least one other place I know (Ben's) sell  some 
of the rack hardware separately. I think I have what I need. But it's nice to 
know I may be able to fill in a small part gap should one arise, as they 
sometimes do in experiments like this.

Yours

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Re: [RBW] Re: Needed: Silver shifter square washer or replacement shifter

[William]

OK, perhaps the Silver ones with the stops are steel.  All mine are the 
original Suntours, where that part is aluminum and very easy to file down. 
 That square part for Silver shifters in the barcon configuration has no 
stop.  It's a circle on the outside and a square on the inside.  That's a 
metaphor for how I feel about myself sometimes.  

http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/sh13.htm 

The Riv photo of the pods has the circle/square rendition.  

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:23:27 AM UTC-7, joe b. wrote:
>
> On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 9:47 AM, William  wrote:
> > When you say pod, that tells me you are asking about Silver Shifters in 
> the
> > barcon configuration.
>
> Good point! I have spare left and right downtube square washers--the
> ones with limit stops for the shifters.
>
> > should specify in your request.  Although the downtube version is soft
> > aluminum and can be easily filed down to resemble the barcon version.
>
> Now I'm confused. Mine are steel, square holes, little limit stop
> nubs, left and right side specific. There's nothing like them in my
> bar end shifters.
>
> Best,
> joe broach
> portland, or
>
> > On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 9:08:04 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
> >>
> >> Am interested in trading for or buying, in order of preference: Silver
> >> shifter square washer; replacement shifter mech minus pod; replacement
> >> shifter mech with pod.
> >>
> >> Thanks.
> >>
> >> --
> >>
> >> -
> >> Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM
> >> For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
> >> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
> >> -
> >>
> >> A billion stars go spinning through the night
> >> Blazing high above your head;
> >> But in you is the Presence that will be
> >> When all the stars are dead.
> >>
> >> Ranier Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory
> >
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> > To view this discussion on the web visit
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[RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?

[Patrick in VT]

On Apr 18, 12:45 pm, "cyclotour...@gmail.com" 
wrote:

>The GBs feel absolutely divine. Like *nothing *else out there.

except tubulars!  seriously, with so many folks chasing the holy grail
of speed/comfort (and spending lots on time/money in that pursuit)
it's surprising that more folks don't ride tubulars, at least for that
one "event" wheelset.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley

[Peter Morgano]

Awesome diagrams Phillip, those are helpful.  Of course as is the often the
case the deep info here from the group has made my choice all the more
complicated, haha. But too many choices are always better than too few I
say.  Thanks all.

Peter

On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 1:14 PM, Philip Williamson <
philip.william...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Peter,
> The Barley is the smallest Carradice bag. I use the Cadet, and think the
> Barley would be too small for me.
>
> I made some illustrations of the relative sizes of the smaller bags:
>
> http://www.biketinker.com/2011/bike-resources/relative-sizes-of-smaller-carradice-bags/
>
> The next size up from the Cadet (last shown), is the Nelson Lowsaddle,
> which adds side pockets.
>
>  Philip
>
> Philip Williamson
> www.biketinker.com
>
>
> On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 2:36:31 PM UTC-7, Peter M wrote:
>
>> Thinking of getting a Carradice Barley saddlebag but wanted to ask if
>> anyone here is running one currently and how they like it. Also do you
>> need a bag support with this thing like the now discontinued Hupe, and
>> will it work with a sprung Brooks like the B72? Thanks to any help
>> anyone can offer.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Needed: Silver shifter square washer or replacement shifter

[Joe Broach]

Ah, gotcha.

Patrick, if nothing else turns up, you're welcome to one of my DT
washers. I'm confident you can caveman the nub off, even if it is
steel.

Best,
joe broach
portland, or

On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 10:41 AM, William  wrote:
> OK, perhaps the Silver ones with the stops are steel.  All mine are the
> original Suntours, where that part is aluminum and very easy to file down.
>  That square part for Silver shifters in the barcon configuration has no
> stop.  It's a circle on the outside and a square on the inside.  That's a
> metaphor for how I feel about myself sometimes.
>
> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/sh13.htm
>
> The Riv photo of the pods has the circle/square rendition.
>
>
> On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:23:27 AM UTC-7, joe b. wrote:
>>
>> On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 9:47 AM, William  wrote:
>> > When you say pod, that tells me you are asking about Silver Shifters in
>> > the
>> > barcon configuration.
>>
>> Good point! I have spare left and right downtube square washers--the
>> ones with limit stops for the shifters.
>>
>> > should specify in your request.  Although the downtube version is soft
>> > aluminum and can be easily filed down to resemble the barcon version.
>>
>> Now I'm confused. Mine are steel, square holes, little limit stop
>> nubs, left and right side specific. There's nothing like them in my
>> bar end shifters.
>>
>> Best,
>> joe broach
>> portland, or
>>
>> > On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 9:08:04 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Am interested in trading for or buying, in order of preference: Silver
>> >> shifter square washer; replacement shifter mech minus pod; replacement
>> >> shifter mech with pod.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks.
>> >>
>> >> --
>> >>
>> >> -
>> >> Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM
>> >> For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
>> >> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
>> >> -
>> >>
>> >> A billion stars go spinning through the night
>> >> Blazing high above your head;
>> >> But in you is the Presence that will be
>> >> When all the stars are dead.
>> >>
>> >> Ranier Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory
>> >
>> > --
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>> > Groups
>> > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 59cm Bleriot

[William]

I have a very close friend that has that exact and deplorable shopping 
style.  In his mind, retail establishments that choose to employ experts 
are offering free expertise.  He happily accepts that free expertise in the 
form of advice and answers to however many questions they are willing to 
answer.  After he is done collecting all the free information he can, only 
then does he begin looking for the best price.  If the best price is back 
at the place with the expert employees, fine.  If it's a mailorder or 
webstore with no employees outside of shipping, so be it.  When I learned 
that about him, I honestly wanted to punch him squarely in the face.  

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:18:35 AM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
Cyclery wrote:
>
> Believe it or not, there are a lot of flakes who are into bikes in the 
> world. My fave was a guy who called several times to talk to me for a 
> combined maybe 2+ hours about a Bleriot. I somehow let the word "Quickbeam" 
> out of my mouth, and that got him to asking questions about that model. His 
> questions carried the implication that he was going to buy a Bleriot from 
> me. Anyway, after all that, maybe 2 weeks later, he called to thank me for 
> my patience in answering his hundreds of neurotic questions, but informed 
> me delightedly that he'd purchased it cheaper from one of the internet bike 
> shops who was selling the Bleriot just over cost back in those days. Not to 
> worry, he vowed to buy fenders from me. The conversation was ended, um, 
> hastily. If it had happened in person rather than on the phone, I think I 
> would have run him out the door with some forceful language and perhaps a 
> kick in the pants. After that, I considered instituting a consulting fee, 
> creditable toward whatever bike purchase may result, when I sensed the 
> conversation was dragging on with no purchase in sight. But it seems bad 
> form to ask for money just for talking to a customer...unless you're a 
> lawyer or medical type.
>
> On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 12:06:35 PM UTC-5, Kris wrote:
>>
>> I've had 4 people who seemed genuinely interested;
>>  
>> 1. read the RBW sizing bits, learned it wouldn't fit and let me know 
>> right away
>> 2. couldn't come up with the funds and politely backed out
>> 3. partner was attacked by a pit bull (!!) and had to back out for $$ and 
>> obvious reasons
>>  
>> all of the above are perfectly reasonable
>>  
>> 4. agreed to pay set price, all set to end eBay auction, was "away from 
>> computer" and would pay in a few hours.THEN NOTHING...vanished into 
>> thin air!!  I even spent an hour boxing the bike!  Now I'll have to rebuild 
>> it to sell localUGH!!!  
>>  
>> You could write back and say"ya know I actually think the bike is 
>> ugly and 650b sucks" and I wouldn't care, but just write the stinking 
>> email!!  I don't know how people act like thisw/ gmail, Google+, FB, 
>> etc it's pretty easy to find them.
>>  
>> //end my rant
>>  
>>  
>>
>> On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 12:15:58 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Yanking this thread violently in my own direction: RANT: about people
>>> who, when they see a FS post, immediately scream, "OH! I wannit! I
>>> wannit!!!" And then, after you patient answer questions and send
>>> photos, disappear into the neant. 
>>>
>>>  

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[RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?

[Jim]

I have this 25 year hole in my riding history, stopped around 1987, just 
restarted last year.  So i've never NOT shifted friction.  Before my 
Hilsen, I  was grinding gears through an old (and miserable) 
"schwinn-approved" Huret.  That will get upgraded if i ever bring that bike 
back on line...

I've noticed some chain-skipping in certain rear cogs on my Hilsen (i've 
been riding the center chain ring pretty exclusively), and it can always be 
resolved by a bit of trimming the shifter, usually one click (silver 
bar-ends) one way or another.  I've rationalized it to myself that the 
relation between the position of the chain for the various ratchet clicks 
of the shifter are more suited for some of the cogs than others (i.e., 
there are three click positions that work for some gears, only two for 
others, so those are more likely to result in skippy or clunky shifting). 
 Interestingly, skipping is almost always a downshifting event for me, 
upshifts are solid and delightful.  My old Schwinn had similar, but more 
severe problems, i could get the chain between cogs on that one, resulting 
in no drive at all, just a free spinning crank.  Fun when it happened 
approaching a big hill.

Jim in Boulder

On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 2:44:51 PM UTC-6, Zack wrote:
>
> I noticed a discussion cropping up in the "New Chain Skipping" thread that 
> I thought it would be worthwhile to dedicate a thread to this, as I have 
> been thinking about it a bit - 
>
> I am a relatively new bike rider, and change gears as it makes sense to me 
> - when i feel like i need more speed, i shift, when i feel like i am not 
> going to be able to get up the hill, i shift.  
>
> But I never really learned the "right" way to do this.  I have learned a 
> little about friction shifting just from poking around (lightening up on 
> the cranks when I am about to shift, as an example) but haven't seen a 
> dedicated thread to this, nor have I found a good resource.  I know for 
> many of you this is intuitive basic stuff, but I never learned how to ride 
> a bike from anyone that actually knew what they are doing.
>
> I generally stay in the middle ring on my front chainring (I have a 
> triple) and use all of the back gears until I need more, and then I shift 
> to either the big or small chainring.  I am cognizant of cross gearing, but 
> am probably guilty of doing it once in a while.
>
> I have consistently had problems with chains slipping, throwing chains 
> (both off the big and granny rings) across multiple bikes, which leads me 
> to believe I am part of the problem.
>
> So how do you ride to ensure that you are treating the bike the way it 
> should be treated?
>
>
>
On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 2:44:51 PM UTC-6, Zack wrote:
>
> I noticed a discussion cropping up in the "New Chain Skipping" thread that 
> I thought it would be worthwhile to dedicate a thread to this, as I have 
> been thinking about it a bit - 
>
> I am a relatively new bike rider, and change gears as it makes sense to me 
> - when i feel like i need more speed, i shift, when i feel like i am not 
> going to be able to get up the hill, i shift.  
>
> But I never really learned the "right" way to do this.  I have learned a 
> little about friction shifting just from poking around (lightening up on 
> the cranks when I am about to shift, as an example) but haven't seen a 
> dedicated thread to this, nor have I found a good resource.  I know for 
> many of you this is intuitive basic stuff, but I never learned how to ride 
> a bike from anyone that actually knew what they are doing.
>
> I generally stay in the middle ring on my front chainring (I have a 
> triple) and use all of the back gears until I need more, and then I shift 
> to either the big or small chainring.  I am cognizant of cross gearing, but 
> am probably guilty of doing it once in a while.
>
> I have consistently had problems with chains slipping, throwing chains 
> (both off the big and granny rings) across multiple bikes, which leads me 
> to believe I am part of the problem.
>
> So how do you ride to ensure that you are treating the bike the way it 
> should be treated?
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?

[William]

Or perhaps I misused the term smart-aleck?  

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:14:58 AM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> On Wed, 2012-04-18 at 10:09 -0700, William wrote:
>
> > 
> > I've been tempted to ask Jan since going fast is fun (for the most
> > part), but since going slow is safe (for the most part), shouldn't he
> > run skinny tires, since they feel fast but are slow?  I know, I'm a
> > jerk, and a smart aleck.  
>
> Perhaps you missed these blog postings:
>
> -http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/03/07/crossing-tracks-safely/
> -http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/01/30/the-downsides-of-wide-tires/
> -http://janheine.wordpress.com/2011/08/30/the-dangers-of-narrow-tires/
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Needed: Silver shifter square washer or replacement shifter

[William]

Patrick is notoriously famous for his irresponsible and deplorable removal 
of steel with power tools.  

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:44:18 AM UTC-7, joe b. wrote:
>
> Ah, gotcha.
>
> Patrick, if nothing else turns up, you're welcome to one of my DT
> washers. I'm confident you can caveman the nub off, even if it is
> steel.
>
> Best,
> joe broach
> portland, or
>
> On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 10:41 AM, William  wrote:
> > OK, perhaps the Silver ones with the stops are steel.  All mine are the
> > original Suntours, where that part is aluminum and very easy to file 
> down.
> >  That square part for Silver shifters in the barcon configuration has no
> > stop.  It's a circle on the outside and a square on the inside.  That's a
> > metaphor for how I feel about myself sometimes.
> >
> > http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/sh13.htm
> >
> > The Riv photo of the pods has the circle/square rendition.
> >
> >
> > On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:23:27 AM UTC-7, joe b. wrote:
> >>
> >> On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 9:47 AM, William  wrote:
> >> > When you say pod, that tells me you are asking about Silver Shifters 
> in
> >> > the
> >> > barcon configuration.
> >>
> >> Good point! I have spare left and right downtube square washers--the
> >> ones with limit stops for the shifters.
> >>
> >> > should specify in your request.  Although the downtube version is soft
> >> > aluminum and can be easily filed down to resemble the barcon version.
> >>
> >> Now I'm confused. Mine are steel, square holes, little limit stop
> >> nubs, left and right side specific. There's nothing like them in my
> >> bar end shifters.
> >>
> >> Best,
> >> joe broach
> >> portland, or
> >>
> >> > On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 9:08:04 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> Am interested in trading for or buying, in order of preference: 
> Silver
> >> >> shifter square washer; replacement shifter mech minus pod; 
> replacement
> >> >> shifter mech with pod.
> >> >>
> >> >> Thanks.
> >> >>
> >> >> --
> >> >>
> >> >> -
> >> >> Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM
> >> >> For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
> >> >> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
> >> >> -
> >> >>
> >> >> A billion stars go spinning through the night
> >> >> Blazing high above your head;
> >> >> But in you is the Presence that will be
> >> >> When all the stars are dead.
> >> >>
> >> >> Ranier Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory
> >> >
> >> > --
> >> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
> >> > Groups
> >> > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> >> > To view this discussion on the web visit
> >> > https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/K8qV3r5b4J0J.
> >> >
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> >
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[RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?

[Michael Hechmer]

Right on happycamper!  I couldn't agree more.  I run both a double and 
triples in 9 speed mode and am happy with both, but anyone who says a 
triple is just as easy to use as a double is probably in denial.  My 
favorite setup is on my Ram,  44/30 rings on a White Ind Crank mated to an 
11/28 9 spd cassette. This gives me 108 gi at the high end, and 30 at the 
low, a very simple shifting pattern, and reasonably closely spaced gears. 
 The only downside to this set up is the initial cost of the White Crank. 
 I know some will balk at the black rings but the are highly polished so I 
got over it in a hurry.

As for those limit screws yup, even after 35 years of riding I always 
scratch my head and try to remember which is the inside and which the 
outside.  On some deraillers  you can't see the mechanism.

My only place of divergence is on "integration".  I run Campy FD, the new 
Ultegra 6700 RD, Conex Chain and Shimano HG cassettes, and ramped rings. 
 With Silver shifters the performance is way better than the Ultegra SIS I 
have used.

The sun is shining; I'm gonna hit the road.
Michael

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 12:46:01 PM UTC-4, HappyCamper wrote:
>
> I'm a friction noob too but some things that helped me:
>
>
>- Move to a compact double. Seriously. I have one less gear I didn't 
>need anyway and I fiddle with my shifters 90% less. Anyone who says a 
>triple in front is just as easy as a double hash been riding bikes for a 
>very long time, or loves their set up so much they refuse to realize the 
>added complexity.
>- Know that even with brifters triples are annoying
>- Friction shifting can be like driving a manual. You learn to shift 
>at the right speed, at the right time. Faster is not best.
>- Shift less.
>- Good shifters are allot better than crappy ones. I have Shimanos 
>which are OK. I want Silvers which I tried the other day and liked allot 
>better. Old school Suntour Ratchets were good too.
>- A unified drivetrain helps. Some people can cobble together all 
>softs of parts and friction shift just fine. In fact it's the reason some 
>people prefer friction. I however found my all 8-speed set up to be nearly 
>flawless. I had lots of mis shifting with a mixed up drivetrain.
>- Rapid rise derailler. In hilly Seattle this really helps me shift 
>uphills.
>- Like everything: practice.
>- If you can over/under shift your chain off gears and you corrected 
>your adjustment screws then either* something is broken* or not set up 
>right. The older... *ahem* wiser folks can't remember how tricky 
> adjustment 
>screws can be when first learning how to set this stuff up. It takes 
>practice or someone really showing you how to do it.
>
> I hope any of this helps. It may be stuff that only worked for me but now 
> I could never go back to indexed shifting.
>
> - Ryan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 1:44:51 PM UTC-7, Zack wrote:
>>
>> I noticed a discussion cropping up in the "New Chain Skipping" thread 
>> that I thought it would be worthwhile to dedicate a thread to this, as I 
>> have been thinking about it a bit - 
>>
>> I am a relatively new bike rider, and change gears as it makes sense to 
>> me - when i feel like i need more speed, i shift, when i feel like i am not 
>> going to be able to get up the hill, i shift.  
>>
>> But I never really learned the "right" way to do this.  I have learned a 
>> little about friction shifting just from poking around (lightening up on 
>> the cranks when I am about to shift, as an example) but haven't seen a 
>> dedicated thread to this, nor have I found a good resource.  I know for 
>> many of you this is intuitive basic stuff, but I never learned how to ride 
>> a bike from anyone that actually knew what they are doing.
>>
>> I generally stay in the middle ring on my front chainring (I have a 
>> triple) and use all of the back gears until I need more, and then I shift 
>> to either the big or small chainring.  I am cognizant of cross gearing, but 
>> am probably guilty of doing it once in a while.
>>
>> I have consistently had problems with chains slipping, throwing chains 
>> (both off the big and granny rings) across multiple bikes, which leads me 
>> to believe I am part of the problem.
>>
>> So how do you ride to ensure that you are treating the bike the way it 
>> should be treated?
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Needed: Silver shifter square washer or replacement shifter

[PATRICK MOORE]

Thanks for all the help and offers. After posting I realized that it
is not the square washer that is  missing but the little plastic
friction washer -- sorry for the confusion. I did however discover
that Riv offers these for sale at $1/pr (part # SH12) and I ordered on
the phone after a nice conversation with John.

Patrick "sorry to miss a Dremeling opportunity" Moore

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Re: [RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?

[PATRICK MOORE]

BUT! Jan's hypothesis that skinny tires feel faster because they
vibrate more seems to me to be very questionable. Doubtless when,
after six months, I return to my slightly-sub-18-lb gofast fixie after
riding the 30+ lb Fargo, the 30- trike and the 25lb errand Riv, and
find it "fast," this is due to a myriad of factors that cannot, or
only with more expertise and energy than is worth expending, be
reduced to scientifically identified causes. But (1) it does *feel*
faster; (2) it is no slower in concrete-like reality; and (3) all of
this has absolutely nuthin', repeat nothing, to do with road buzz.

In fact, reducing the question to a crudely empirical estimate of
crank rpm in the higher gear (75" comp to, respectively, 69", 70" and
72"), I *am* going faster. Again, no buzz factor.

On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 11:09 AM, William  wrote:
> agreed.  Even Jan Heine admits that the perception of speed is far stronger
> than any measurable speed difference in this hair-splitting area.  He rides
> quality fat tires because he knows empirically that they are no slower at
> worst and slightly faster at best.  He concedes that narrow tires feel
> faster despite the measurable fact that they are not.  I remember that every
> time I see a post "I rode those tires for a while, but they were sluggish
> and slow".  19 times out of 20, that's a qualitative judgement, not a
> quantitative one.
>
> I've been tempted to ask Jan since going fast is fun (for the most part),
> but since going slow is safe (for the most part), shouldn't he run skinny
> tires, since they feel fast but are slow?  I know, I'm a jerk, and a smart
> aleck.
>
>
> On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:03:07 AM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
> wrote:
>>
>> MichaelH illustrates how little difference it makes. Three minutes is his
>> largest variation in his 18 mile ride on a variety of different tires with
>> different bikes, and that variation wasn't even reproducible in a second
>> trial. I spent seven years in grad school doing science, so I can see that
>> there are confounding factors in Michael's research that muddy the waters.
>> But his over all consistency from tire to tire and bike to bike suggests (if
>> not proves) that tire differences play much less role than, say, the rider's
>> day to day energy level and attitude, wind direction, and countless other
>> factors. Comparing one lightweight 700x28 tire to another is really
>> splitting hairs.
>>
>> On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 7:16:05 PM UTC-5, MichaelH wrote:
>>>
>>> Another single data point.
>>>
>>> Along with the post on where the Rambouillet fit in the Riv line up, I
>>> rode an 18 mile loop from my home on my Ram with a pair of Continental GP4,
>>> 23 mm tires.  (A gift).  The course has 900 feet of climbing and includes
>>> 4-5 miles of dirt roads, with the rest equally divided among good pavement,
>>> bad pavement, and atrocious pavement.  After the ride I recorded my time &
>>> subjective impressions (painful).  I also discovered a cut  in the sidewall
>>> of the rear tire, so I decide to replicate the ride with a variety of bikes
>>> and ties.  I rode it twice on my Ebisu with Jack Browns.  The first ride was
>>> 3 minutes slower but the second was identical, although a lot more
>>> comfortable. I rode it once with my Trek & T Serve  (30mm actual).  My time
>>> was right between the faster and slower rides & the comfort just a nudge
>>> below the JB.  Now the wind has shifted around from the south to the west (
>>> it has been blowing at 20 -25 mph, making this very real world test) and the
>>> dirt road has been graded, leaving it's surface full of rocks and loose
>>> sand, so it's really hard going now.  Hard to make comparisons.  I'm in
>>> Boston for the weekend and heavy rain forecasted for next week so this test
>>> will be suspended for a while.
>>>
>>> I'm not sure where this leaves me.  I'd like to put the Grand Bois Green
>>> on my ram but am wondering if the perceived advantage is worth the added
>>> flats.
>>>
>>> Michael
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:29:48 PM UTC-4, William wrote:

 I'm in the same boat with Pari-Motos.  I flat almost every ride with
 Pari-Motos, and almost never with anything else.  I've put them back on 
 with
 Foss tubes to try again.  I like the ride of them, but the flat record is
 pretty bad for me.  For me it's been glass.

 On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 12:55:06 PM UTC-7, Mojo wrote:
>
> Prompted by this thread I changed out the Rolly Poly/Ruffy Tuffy
> front/rear combo on my road bike wheels to the pair of (what I have
> considered to be special event) Grand Bois Cerf 28mm tires. I rode them 
> for
> 25 mountainy miles yesterday and enjoyed their feel immensely. Today I 
> got a
> front goathead flat. This is the 3rd flat I have had on these tires in 
> about
> a dozen rides. This is by far the worst flat record of any tire I have 
> used,
> ever. I understand I cannot

[RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley

[doc]

Jay,

I had a Super C for a while and agree that the plastic clips are much
better; but I just couldn't live with the black v. the olive that I
prefer.  I guess I put a little too much stock on looks.

doc

On Apr 18, 10:18 am, Jay in Tel Aviv  wrote:
> My usual commuting bag is a Carradice Super C, which is similar in
> size to the Nelson and Camper but with plastic clips instead of straps
> and buckles.
> Much easier.
>
> Jay
>
> On Apr 18, 1:44 pm, doc  wrote:
>
>
>
> > I found the Barley too small for day rides and went with the Pendle.
> > For both bags I inserted hard plastic backing to help them maintain
> > their shape (cut from cat litter tubs).  For both sprung and unsprung
> > saddles, a Midlands bag support at $7.00 works great and keeps them
> > from swaying, plus prevents them rubbing up against the backs of my
> > thighs.
>
> > I love the looks of the Carradice, but I wish they had different
> > fasteners than the traditional buckles.  They can be cumbersome,
> > especially in winter when wearing a pair of gloves.
>
> > On Apr 17, 11:59 pm, charlie  wrote:
>
> > > Thought of Barley until I purchased a Nelson Longflap...and glad I
> > > did. The Barley would be too small except in ideal weather (for me) In
> > > the summer I use a Banana bag for tools,tube, wallet and phone but in
> > > the rainy Northwest I need capacity for rain gear and a change of
> > > clothing etc. for the other nine months of the year. I imagine a
> > > Barley would be a nice bag to leave on all year with perhaps another
> > > (maybe a front bag) to supplement. I rack my Nelson now and am in the
> > > process of building a spartan rack / bag support / light mount. This
> > > rack will be made with the idea of adding and extension piece for a
> > > full rack when I want to camp or whatever. Still working on the
> > > design...with bags more is better when you actually want to carry
> > > stuff. When you go big you find stuff to carry that you might actually
> > > need or want to make cycling more enjoyable and less of a "stranded in
> > > the middle of nowhere without what you need athletic event."   ; )
>
> > > On Apr 17, 2:36 pm, Peter M  wrote:
>
> > > > Thinking of getting a Carradice Barley saddlebag but wanted to ask if
> > > > anyone here is running one currently and how they like it. Also do you
> > > > need a bag support with this thing like the now discontinued Hupe, and
> > > > will it work with a sprung Brooks like the B72? Thanks to any help
> > > > anyone can offer.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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Re: [RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?

[Ryan Watson]

If anything, road buzz makes a bike seem slower to me. I guess because I've 
always associated noise and vibration with inefficiency. 



On Apr 18, 2012, at 13:15, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:

> BUT! Jan's hypothesis that skinny tires feel faster because they
> vibrate more seems to me to be very questionable. Doubtless when,
> after six months, I return to my slightly-sub-18-lb gofast fixie after
> riding the 30+ lb Fargo, the 30- trike and the 25lb errand Riv, and
> find it "fast," this is due to a myriad of factors that cannot, or
> only with more expertise and energy than is worth expending, be
> reduced to scientifically identified causes. But (1) it does *feel*
> faster; (2) it is no slower in concrete-like reality; and (3) all of
> this has absolutely nuthin', repeat nothing, to do with road buzz.
> 
> In fact, reducing the question to a crudely empirical estimate of
> crank rpm in the higher gear (75" comp to, respectively, 69", 70" and
> 72"), I *am* going faster. Again, no buzz factor.
> 
> On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 11:09 AM, William  wrote:
>> agreed.  Even Jan Heine admits that the perception of speed is far stronger
>> than any measurable speed difference in this hair-splitting area.  He rides
>> quality fat tires because he knows empirically that they are no slower at
>> worst and slightly faster at best.  He concedes that narrow tires feel
>> faster despite the measurable fact that they are not.  I remember that every
>> time I see a post "I rode those tires for a while, but they were sluggish
>> and slow".  19 times out of 20, that's a qualitative judgement, not a
>> quantitative one.
>> 
>> I've been tempted to ask Jan since going fast is fun (for the most part),
>> but since going slow is safe (for the most part), shouldn't he run skinny
>> tires, since they feel fast but are slow?  I know, I'm a jerk, and a smart
>> aleck.
>> 
>> 
>> On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:03:07 AM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> MichaelH illustrates how little difference it makes. Three minutes is his
>>> largest variation in his 18 mile ride on a variety of different tires with
>>> different bikes, and that variation wasn't even reproducible in a second
>>> trial. I spent seven years in grad school doing science, so I can see that
>>> there are confounding factors in Michael's research that muddy the waters.
>>> But his over all consistency from tire to tire and bike to bike suggests (if
>>> not proves) that tire differences play much less role than, say, the rider's
>>> day to day energy level and attitude, wind direction, and countless other
>>> factors. Comparing one lightweight 700x28 tire to another is really
>>> splitting hairs.
>>> 
>>> On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 7:16:05 PM UTC-5, MichaelH wrote:
 
 Another single data point.
 
 Along with the post on where the Rambouillet fit in the Riv line up, I
 rode an 18 mile loop from my home on my Ram with a pair of Continental GP4,
 23 mm tires.  (A gift).  The course has 900 feet of climbing and includes
 4-5 miles of dirt roads, with the rest equally divided among good pavement,
 bad pavement, and atrocious pavement.  After the ride I recorded my time &
 subjective impressions (painful).  I also discovered a cut  in the sidewall
 of the rear tire, so I decide to replicate the ride with a variety of bikes
 and ties.  I rode it twice on my Ebisu with Jack Browns.  The first ride 
 was
 3 minutes slower but the second was identical, although a lot more
 comfortable. I rode it once with my Trek & T Serve  (30mm actual).  My time
 was right between the faster and slower rides & the comfort just a nudge
 below the JB.  Now the wind has shifted around from the south to the west (
 it has been blowing at 20 -25 mph, making this very real world test) and 
 the
 dirt road has been graded, leaving it's surface full of rocks and loose
 sand, so it's really hard going now.  Hard to make comparisons.  I'm in
 Boston for the weekend and heavy rain forecasted for next week so this test
 will be suspended for a while.
 
 I'm not sure where this leaves me.  I'd like to put the Grand Bois Green
 on my ram but am wondering if the perceived advantage is worth the added
 flats.
 
 Michael
 
 On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:29:48 PM UTC-4, William wrote:
> 
> I'm in the same boat with Pari-Motos.  I flat almost every ride with
> Pari-Motos, and almost never with anything else.  I've put them back on 
> with
> Foss tubes to try again.  I like the ride of them, but the flat record is
> pretty bad for me.  For me it's been glass.
> 
> On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 12:55:06 PM UTC-7, Mojo wrote:
>> 
>> Prompted by this thread I changed out the Rolly Poly/Ruffy Tuffy
>> front/rear combo on my road bike wheels to the pair of (what I have
>> considered to be special event) Grand Bois Cerf 28mm tires. I rode them 

Re: [RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?

[Steve Palincsar]

On Wed, 2012-04-18 at 11:43 -0700, Michael Hechmer wrote:
> Right on happycamper!  I couldn't agree more.  I run both a double and
> triples in 9 speed mode and am happy with both, but anyone who says a
> triple is just as easy to use as a double is probably in denial.

I'll say it, and I'm definitely not "in denial."  How is a triple
"difficult"?  Ignore the granny and it's a double.  But unlike a double,
if you /need/ the lowesst range, it's there.



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[RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?

[Michael_S]

The other new tire out there is the Resist Nomad. I have about 200 miles on 
the 700x35 model which runs a hair under 33mm. They "feel" 
 faster than Paselas or JB's, definitely plusher than the Pasela, almost as 
good as the GB Cypress at less than 1/2 the price. I haven't had them 
long enough to judge flat resistance ( none yet)  and I've done limited 
dirt riding so far. The GB's I owned had a casing separation after 700 
miles.
All said, I'm very impressed with the Nomads. They also make a 700x45 mm 
that runs about 42mm from what I've read. And they come in gumwalls!

~mike

On Sunday, April 15, 2012 9:47:12 AM UTC-7, David T. wrote:
>
> What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement? Or 
> some good ones? 
>
>
>
>
On Sunday, April 15, 2012 9:47:12 AM UTC-7, David T. wrote:
>
> What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement? Or 
> some good ones? 
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?

[Michael_S]

here is a picture of the 35mm Nomad.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37347002@N05/6931879438/in/photostream 

~mike

On Sunday, April 15, 2012 9:47:12 AM UTC-7, David T. wrote:
>
> What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement? Or 
> some good ones? 
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Platrack In Back

[Peter Morgano]

Why no diving board? I dont think the other stays would work because as
was pointed out the rear bolts are occupied with the platrack itself. I am
gonna play around with this over the weekend too. The marks rack did come
with 2 sets of draw bolts but as I just found out I cracked one over
tightening it and dont feel like paying 18 bucks to Riv to get a new one
so if anyone has one laying around I will shoot you 5 bucks to put it in an
envelope. If my platrack setup doesnt sell I am going to go for this setup.
I would think with 3 sets of stay attachments you could carry alot of
weight on the backhm

On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 1:34 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean <
thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net> wrote:

> Hmmm... Perhaps I should make all my questions rhetorical! :)
>
> Yep, those are among the concerns I had. I may give it a try this weekend.
>
> I like the fact that RBW and at least one other place I know (Ben's) sell
>  some of the rack hardware separately. I think I have what I need. But it's
> nice to know I may be able to fill in a small part gap should one arise, as
> they sometimes do in experiments like this.
>
> Yours
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on p avement?

[mikel66...@juno.com]

finally another 700c wide GUMWALL option. where did you buy these, mike?
mike goldman
warwick,r.i.

53 Year Old Mom Looks 33
The Stunning Results of Her Wrinkle Trick Has Botox Doctors Worried
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4f8f30a11561174aaf8st02duc

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[RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley

[Ginz]

Barley is great.  But, how high is your saddle relative to your rear
tire?   The Barley was my choice because I ride very small frames and,
still, the Barley drooped over my fender.  An uplift might help but I
have not tried it.

I once owned the SQR uplift. However, with a low saddle also comes
little seatpost exposure and no room for the SQR.

I'm just full of complaints today!!

Ginz

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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?

[PATRICK MOORE]

I'll say it too. In fact, I'm wondering if there is really any
practical benefit from going (as I loudly announced) from a 3X7 to a
2X9.

Question: the 19 t cog works fine with the 46 but it skips with the
36. Does anyone have any ideas why this might be? I suppose the
easiest remedy is simply to replace the 19 

Patrick "20 miles on the Fargo today and yep, it's slower than the
Rivs and possibly slower than the trike" Moore -- tho' a good part of
that may be two big Ortlieb Packers catching the SSW 12 g to 17.

On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 2:03 PM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> On Wed, 2012-04-18 at 11:43 -0700, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>> Right on happycamper!  I couldn't agree more.  I run both a double and
>> triples in 9 speed mode and am happy with both, but anyone who says a
>> triple is just as easy to use as a double is probably in denial.
>
> I'll say it, and I'm definitely not "in denial."  How is a triple
> "difficult"?  Ignore the granny and it's a double.  But unlike a double,
> if you /need/ the lowesst range, it's there.
>
>
>
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-- 

-
Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
-

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.

Ranier Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory

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[RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley

[Lynne Fitz]

My bags are the Acorn Rando bag (front) and the Barley (rear).  I use
the Bagman support, because my seatpost has a kickback, and it was
bugging me that it was hitting my legs.  Plus tiny person, tiny bike -
the bag is better up on the support.

I have so far not needed any more luggage space, and have ridden rainy
400k brevets (change of clothes!) and not-rainy 600k brevets (too much
food!)  I carry a spare tire, a couple of tubes, various other
stuff...  Too much other stuff.

With the springy Brooks, you'll want a support.

Lynne F

On Apr 17, 2:36 pm, Peter M  wrote:
> Thinking of getting a Carradice Barley saddlebag but wanted to ask if
> anyone here is running one currently and how they like it. Also do you
> need a bag support with this thing like the now discontinued Hupe, and
> will it work with a sprung Brooks like the B72? Thanks to any help
> anyone can offer.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley

[Steve Palincsar]

On Wed, 2012-04-18 at 15:46 -0700, Lynne Fitz wrote:
> My bags are the Acorn Rando bag (front) and the Barley (rear).  I use
> the Bagman support, because my seatpost has a kickback, and it was
> bugging me that it was hitting my legs.  Plus tiny person, tiny bike -
> the bag is better up on the support.
> 
> I have so far not needed any more luggage space, and have ridden rainy
> 400k brevets (change of clothes!) and not-rainy 600k brevets (too much
> food!)  I carry a spare tire, a couple of tubes, various other
> stuff...  Too much other stuff.
> 
> With the springy Brooks, you'll want a support.


But then, if that's you in the Spring 2012 BQ with your Sweetpea with
the Acorn, the Barley and the Hutchinson 650Bx32 tires, it's obvious
your clothes are pretty small and won't take up much room!

Incidentally, what size is that Sweetpea?





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Re: [RBW] Re: Platrack In Back

[Thomas Lynn Skean]

Oh, doing it without a diving board would avoid any interference with my fender 
mount. I could use one of Sheldon's fender nuts, probably, to minimize the 
interference. But generally I would prefer being able to put the rack on and 
take it off without any effect on my fender mount at all. And I probably will 
have a cafe lock there, which will simply complicate things a little more.

It's no big deal, I could even see using both the diving board and the "upper" 
struts for extra strength if you wanted to haul a heavy load sometimes. I 
wonder if you could get two of the huge Wald baskets on a platrack in a stable 
way. That'd be some grocery room indeed.

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

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Re: [RBW] Platrack In Back

[René Sterental]

>
> What is the diving board?

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Re: [RBW] Platrack In Back

[Peter Morgano]

update, just gave it a go with the short stays, the draw bolts arent long
enough to go through both racks

On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 7:39 PM, René Sterental  wrote:

> What is the diving board?
>
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Re: [RBW] Platrack In Back

[William]

The steel flat part in the middle of a Marks Rack through which you run the 
brake pivot bolt.  One of the truly superior parts of the Nitto Mini Front 
is that it has no diving board, but it's not as versatile as the Marks.   

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 4:39:47 PM UTC-7, René wrote:
>
> What is the diving board?
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?

[pb]

On Apr 18, 1:03 pm, Steve Palincsar  wrote:

> I'll say it, and I'm definitely not "in denial."  How is a triple
> "difficult"?  Ignore the granny and it's a double.  But unlike a double,
> if you /need/ the lowesst range, it's there.

Ok ...  a triple is not "difficult".  It is, however, fussier.  When I
went 10-speed Ergo in 2001, I also went triple, and I loved it.  With
a 34 in front, I could run a 12-23 on the rear in CO, where hilly
paved roads are engineered for icy conditions and are therefore less
steep than in other parts of the country, and I had fabulous gear
selection.  As an old friend put it, "I have gears like rich people
have money."

Five years ago I went compact double on everything.  My triples -- I
have two of them -- have been sitting on the shelf ever since.
Shifting the front is so much more positive with the doubles.  The
need to trim is reduced, I would guess, by 80-90%.  But then, as I
said, I'm an Ergo guy.  I no longer shift for myself.  So to speak.  I
have little people in my levers who do that for me.  :-)  Getting up
the hill is sufficient demand on the little bit of RAAM I have to
offer.  (Get it, son?  That's a joke, I say, a joke!)

If one enjoys being an expert friction shifter, then one might
actually enjoy the added fussiness of a triple.  There you have it.
Chacun a son gout.  To each his own.  De gustibus non est
disputandum.  Et cetera, et cetera, et cetera.  Shall we dance?*

~~~

"I'd like to thank all the little people who made this possible..."

*Bonus points for naming the movie.

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[RBW] Re: Riv Rally East - Full speed ahead!!!

[Montclair BobbyB]

OK, here's the Weather Underground forecast that we should plan around
(which be forewarned, will vary from hot to cold!!!):

For Cumberland MD, Saturday:
Mostly cloudy in the morning, then partly cloudy with a chance of a
thunderstorm and rain. Depending on which weather forecast you
believe, the high can range from 72F to 82F.  Chance of rain 40%.

For Confluence PA, Saturday afternoon is pretty much the same as
Cumberland.  It's the evening forecast that's changed MY mind about
camping:
Overcast with a chance of snow and rain showers after midnight. Fog
overnight. Depending on which forecast you believe, temps will range
from mid-50s to a low of 30F!!!.
THAT COULD REPRESENT AS MUCH AS A FIFTY DEGREE TEMPERATURE SWING...
Wow

Confluence and Ohiopyle on Sunday:
Overcast. Fog early. High of 52F (although it may be as cold as 36F at
8 AM). Winds from the NE at 5 to 10 mph.  Chance of rain 20%

SO to be conservative, expect varied skies with SOME RAIN, possible T-
storms on Sat, and temperatures ranging from very cold (in the 30s
Sunday AM) to hot (over 80 on Sat).  THAT should leave you with enough
info to pack accordingly, RIGHT  @#$%

Friday evening we're looking for a spot to meet in Cumberland.  I'll
gladly accept recommendations... and would just as soon meet in town
(Cumberland) than out in Lavale.

Oh boy, this is gonna be FUN!!!  (Unfortunately Rusty Click and Ed
Quigley will be unable to join due to a unexpected personal
commitment; Sorry guys, we'll miss you.)

Peace,
Bobby


On Apr 16, 5:20 pm, Minh  wrote:
> Ha! I've got on the full fenders + mudflaps, hopefully that's enough to ward 
> off the rain.  Also packing an extra sweater!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?

[Michael Hechmer]

I didn't say it was difficult, I said it was not as easy.  I have been 
riding doubles and triples with friction shifting for more than 30 years, 
and feel quite comfortable with both, but the chances of a missed shift 
with a double are much less than with a triple.  My CD, a 4/30 gives me a 
low gear of 30, which does fine for almost all unloaded riding for me.  I 
have two bikes with triples and use them as needed. They provide low gears 
of 26, or 24 if I want.  On the double I can jam the front shifter around 
on Vt's rolling hills and never overshift.  With a triple more finesse and 
attention is needed.  My wife rides a triple all the time and needs it to 
get up the hill which we live at the bottom of - 1+ mile of 6-8% grade, and 
our tandem sports a 55/42/26 with a 32 cog in the back.  But that bike 
takes skill, coordination, and practice to consistently shift smoothly. 
 Anyone can learn to live with and shift a triple, but it will always 
require more attention than a double. If you can do it with 100% accuracy, 
congratulations, you have mastered something that takes more skill than 
consistently shifting a double.  Whether the system is 7, 8, 9, or 10 speed 
is irrelevant to FD shifting.  I like the closely spaced gearing of the 9 
and it works as well for me as a 7.  I commuted for a whole year, 3000+ 
miles, with a 3x7 set up.  It worked fine.  I like 2x9 better.

Michael

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 4:03:19 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> On Wed, 2012-04-18 at 11:43 -0700, Michael Hechmer wrote:
> > Right on happycamper!  I couldn't agree more.  I run both a double and
> > triples in 9 speed mode and am happy with both, but anyone who says a
> > triple is just as easy to use as a double is probably in denial.
>
> I'll say it, and I'm definitely not "in denial."  How is a triple
> "difficult"?  Ignore the granny and it's a double.  But unlike a double,
> if you /need/ the lowesst range, it's there.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?

[Bill M.]

Denial can also be believing that a 30/29 low gear is low enough for all 
purposes.  I have a 46/30 x 11-32 drivetrain on one bike and like it fine, 
but it doesn't come close to the 24 x 32 low gear on another bike.  When 
the grade tops 15%, you bet I use that low gear!

If you want fussy, turn the clock back 25 or 30 years.  Back then I rode a 
50/46/28 half step crank with a six speed cassette and friction bar end 
shifters.  With that setup you were constantly shifting between the outer 
and middle rings to fine tune gears, and half of the time you needed both 
front and rear shifts for a small step change.  Worse yet were 1-1/2 step 
"Alpine" geared drivetrains with shift patterns so complicated folks kept 
gear charts taped to their handlebars so they could figure out where to 
shift to next!  Modern drivetrains with nine or ten cogs in back, 
infrequent front shifts and indexing are a piece of cake.  Even triples.

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 11:43:13 AM UTC-7, MichaelH wrote:
>
> Right on happycamper!  I couldn't agree more.  I run both a double and 
> triples in 9 speed mode and am happy with both, but anyone who says a 
> triple is just as easy to use as a double is probably in denial.  My 
> favorite setup is on my Ram,  44/30 rings on a White Ind Crank mated to an 
> 11/28 9 spd cassette. This gives me 108 gi at the high end, and 30 at the 
> low, a very simple shifting pattern, and reasonably closely spaced gears. 
>  The only downside to this set up is the initial cost of the White Crank. 
>  I know some will balk at the black rings but the are highly polished so I 
> got over it in a hurry.
>
> As for those limit screws yup, even after 35 years of riding I always 
> scratch my head and try to remember which is the inside and which the 
> outside.  On some deraillers  you can't see the mechanism.
>
> My only place of divergence is on "integration".  I run Campy FD, the new 
> Ultegra 6700 RD, Conex Chain and Shimano HG cassettes, and ramped rings. 
>  With Silver shifters the performance is way better than the Ultegra SIS I 
> have used.
>
> The sun is shining; I'm gonna hit the road.
> Michael
>
> On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 12:46:01 PM UTC-4, HappyCamper wrote:
>>
>> I'm a friction noob too but some things that helped me:
>>
>>
>>- Move to a compact double. Seriously. I have one less gear I didn't 
>>need anyway and I fiddle with my shifters 90% less. Anyone who says a 
>>triple in front is just as easy as a double hash been riding bikes for a 
>>very long time, or loves their set up so much they refuse to realize the 
>>added complexity.
>>- Know that even with brifters triples are annoying
>>- Friction shifting can be like driving a manual. You learn to shift 
>>at the right speed, at the right time. Faster is not best.
>>- Shift less.
>>- Good shifters are allot better than crappy ones. I have Shimanos 
>>which are OK. I want Silvers which I tried the other day and liked allot 
>>better. Old school Suntour Ratchets were good too.
>>- A unified drivetrain helps. Some people can cobble together all 
>>softs of parts and friction shift just fine. In fact it's the reason some 
>>people prefer friction. I however found my all 8-speed set up to be 
>> nearly 
>>flawless. I had lots of mis shifting with a mixed up drivetrain.
>>- Rapid rise derailler. In hilly Seattle this really helps me shift 
>>uphills.
>>- Like everything: practice.
>>- If you can over/under shift your chain off gears and you corrected 
>>your adjustment screws then either* something is broken* or not set 
>>up right. The older... *ahem* wiser folks can't remember how tricky 
>> adjustment 
>>screws can be when first learning how to set this stuff up. It takes 
>>practice or someone really showing you how to do it.
>>
>> I hope any of this helps. It may be stuff that only worked for me but now 
>> I could never go back to indexed shifting.
>>
>> - Ryan
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 1:44:51 PM UTC-7, Zack wrote:
>>>
>>> I noticed a discussion cropping up in the "New Chain Skipping" thread 
>>> that I thought it would be worthwhile to dedicate a thread to this, as I 
>>> have been thinking about it a bit - 
>>>
>>> I am a relatively new bike rider, and change gears as it makes sense to 
>>> me - when i feel like i need more speed, i shift, when i feel like i am not 
>>> going to be able to get up the hill, i shift.  
>>>
>>> But I never really learned the "right" way to do this.  I have learned a 
>>> little about friction shifting just from poking around (lightening up on 
>>> the cranks when I am about to shift, as an example) but haven't seen a 
>>> dedicated thread to this, nor have I found a good resource.  I know for 
>>> many of you this is intuitive basic stuff, but I never learned how to ride 
>>> a bike from anyone that actually knew what they are doing.
>>>
>>> I generally s

[RBW] Re: FS: Frost River Panniers (the ones that were just on here last week)

[Scot Brooks]

Sold ya'll. The RBW Owners Bunch: people with good taste talking to people 
with good taste. 

On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 7:11:36 PM UTC-7, Scot Brooks wrote:
>
> Pics in an imgur album here --> http://imgur.com/a/fN5VH#0
>
> So these are the same panniers I just purchased from Adam here on the 
> group. They're just as he described; good condition, used, but good 
> condition and lots of miles and years ahead of them. I tried them out, I 
> guess I'm just a saddlesack guy rather than a pannier guy, whatever that 
> means. Anyway, same deal he gave me is what I'm offering up. $100 for the 
> panniers plus $15 for shipping. Did you miss out when I purchased them? OK, 
> life is all about second chances :)
>

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Re: [RBW] What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?

[jimD]

+1
We used the unit of measurement a bunch when I was in the Navy.
JimD
Precision in all things.


On Apr 18, 2012, at 10:11 AM, William wrote:

> Perhaps we should develop our own quantitative metric for the narrowness of 
> the hair being split?  Inspired by the well known engineering unit the RCH.  
> 
> SHPI -- splittable hairs per inch?  
> 
> On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:07:07 AM UTC-7, HappyCamper wrote:
> You can say that every post on this group ever has been splitting hairs. It's 
> part of the fun :)
> 
> - Ryan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:03:07 AM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
> wrote:
> MichaelH illustrates how little difference it makes. Three minutes is his 
> largest variation in his 18 mile ride on a variety of different tires with 
> different bikes, and that variation wasn't even reproducible in a second 
> trial. I spent seven years in grad school doing science, so I can see that 
> there are confounding factors in Michael's research that muddy the waters. 
> But his over all consistency from tire to tire and bike to bike suggests (if 
> not proves) that tire differences play much less role than, say, the rider's 
> day to day energy level and attitude, wind direction, and countless other 
> factors. Comparing one lightweight 700x28 tire to another is really splitting 
> hairs. 
> 
> On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 7:16:05 PM UTC-5, MichaelH wrote:
> Another single data point.
> 
> Along with the post on where the Rambouillet fit in the Riv line up, I rode 
> an 18 mile loop from my home on my Ram with a pair of Continental GP4, 23 mm 
> tires.  (A gift).  The course has 900 feet of climbing and includes 4-5 miles 
> of dirt roads, with the rest equally divided among good pavement, bad 
> pavement, and atrocious pavement.  After the ride I recorded my time & 
> subjective impressions (painful).  I also discovered a cut  in the sidewall 
> of the rear tire, so I decide to replicate the ride with a variety of bikes 
> and ties.  I rode it twice on my Ebisu with Jack Browns.  The first ride was 
> 3 minutes slower but the second was identical, although a lot more 
> comfortable. I rode it once with my Trek & T Serve  (30mm actual).  My time 
> was right between the faster and slower rides & the comfort just a nudge 
> below the JB.  Now the wind has shifted around from the south to the west ( 
> it has been blowing at 20 -25 mph, making this very real world test) and the 
> dirt road has been graded, leaving it's surface full of rocks and loose sand, 
> so it's really hard going now.  Hard to make comparisons.  I'm in Boston for 
> the weekend and heavy rain forecasted for next week so this test will be 
> suspended for a while.
> 
> I'm not sure where this leaves me.  I'd like to put the Grand Bois Green on 
> my ram but am wondering if the perceived advantage is worth the added flats.
> 
> Michael
> 
> On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:29:48 PM UTC-4, William wrote:
> I'm in the same boat with Pari-Motos.  I flat almost every ride with 
> Pari-Motos, and almost never with anything else.  I've put them back on with 
> Foss tubes to try again.  I like the ride of them, but the flat record is 
> pretty bad for me.  For me it's been glass.  
> 
> On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 12:55:06 PM UTC-7, Mojo wrote:
> Prompted by this thread I changed out the Rolly Poly/Ruffy Tuffy front/rear 
> combo on my road bike wheels to the pair of (what I have considered to be 
> special event) Grand Bois Cerf 28mm tires. I rode them for 25 mountainy miles 
> yesterday and enjoyed their feel immensely. Today I got a front goathead 
> flat. This is the 3rd flat I have had on these tires in about a dozen rides. 
> This is by far the worst flat record of any tire I have used, ever. I 
> understand I cannot say this will be the flat record for me in the future or 
> for you in your environment, but my faith in the tire is shaken and it 
> affects the enjoyment of my ride. I am putting more effort into scanning the 
> road or trying to stay off the dirtier portions of the road instead of 
> enjoying the view or thinking my deep thoughts. {~; 
> .
> When I got home I fixed the flat, pulled the GB Cerfs and replaced them with 
> the RP/RT combo. As I was changing them, I weighed them on my Park digital 
> spring scale. To the nearest ounce, the Cerf was 10oz, Rolly Poly 11oz, Ruffy 
> Tuffy 13oz, Jack Brown Green 33mm was 12-13oz. All of these tires are made by 
> Panasonic. Now I believe Jan Heine's rollout tire comparisons are valid. But 
> for me to flat every second or third ride is just not worth the lower rolling 
> resistance or an ounce or two of rotating weight.
> 
>  
> 
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[RBW] Re: Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

[Darin G.]

I have the new Atlantis with the top-crown connection.  I'm not looking at 
a large front rack to hold a lot of stuff on top, basically just the 
Berthoud bag that I have on the mini-front in lieu of a handlebar bag.  The 
rest of the load would be in the small front pannier's.  I'm thinking the 
Berthoud bag could sit on the Big Front and still give me pannier capacity. 
 The more I think about it the more I'm leaning towards the big front.  I 
have the Shimano cantis (not the high profile or neo-retros) and I hope the 
big front will bolt to the rack mounts, but I can live with it clamped. 
 Already have a Big Front in the rear and there's a ton of real estate on 
that baby.

D.G, 

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 7:08:05 AM UTC-6, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:
>
> There are several excellent front racks on the market, but few work 
> elegantly with the Atlantis fork braze-ons. Do you have one of the new 
> Atlantis forks that have threaded holes on top of the fork crown? I adapted 
> a Surly front rack to work on my touring bike...basically by using some 
> rear Surly rack hardware and mounting it like a rear rack making use of the 
> top-crown connection. It was really strong and clean looking. I'll try to 
> dig up a photo. 
>
> But there is a downside: I quit using the Atlantis as a front loader, at 
> least with the heavy loads the Surly rack allowed me to carry. I found it 
> unnervingly flexy up front when the front load was substantial. This 
> flexiness led me to conclude that 1" steerers and quill stems were at a 
> disadvantage when carrying lots of weight up front. My Curt Goodrich tourer 
> was 1-1/8 threadless, which felt much more solid up front regardless of how 
> much stuff I carried. A friend of mine reached the same conclusion in the 
> middle of a one-week tour when he tested a compsnion's Surly LHT after 
> complaining that his otherwise gorgeous custom tourer (1" steerer) was 
> scary with a heavy front load. I should clarify that the flexiness did not 
> stop me from enjoying many happy trips and overnights on my Atlantis. The 
> best front load solution I found was a Wald basket that I could clamp on 
> the handlebar and zip-tie to the Nitto mini front. Anchoring the basket 
> between the bar and rack made for a solid connection. Everything that I 
> didn't want in the basket went on the back.

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[RBW] Re: Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

[Minh]

Darin, I have this combo on my hill borne, it works well, the only thing to 
keep in mind that both racks add nearly 5lbs to the bike, so make sure you need 
the carrying capacity in the front.  My front is mounted using the bosses but 
it makes access to the front brakes very difficult.  When I get a chance I am 
going to switch back to clamps, it's just not 
Practical bolted to the mounts. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley

[Mojo]

My take on the Barley, it is a great warm season day bag. It will not carry 
more than a few items home from the store. Nor will it carry lots of cold 
season wool. But it will carry 2 tubes/repair kit, mini-tool, vest, arm/leg 
warmers, saddle cover, big lunch, camera, a third water bottle with room to 
spare and that doesn't even include strapping stuff to the outside. I use 
mine in the warm season then go to a Little Joe or SuperC for winter riding.
I like the Barley enough to own two:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/79695460@N00/6922766182/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/79695460@N00/6897752730/in/photostream/
 
Yehuda may recommend the Nelson:
http://yehudamoon.com/index.php?date=2008-03-17
 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley

[Jim M.]

And another copper Legolas with Barley:  
http://www.flickr.com/photos/20986098@N04/6773347072/in/photostream

jim m
wc ca

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 9:41:43 PM UTC-7, Mojo wrote:
>
> My take on the Barley, it is a great warm season day bag. It will not 
> carry more than a few items home from the store. Nor will it carry lots of 
> cold season wool. But it will carry 2 tubes/repair kit, mini-tool, vest, 
> arm/leg warmers, saddle cover, big lunch, camera, a third water bottle with 
> room to spare and that doesn't even include strapping stuff to the outside. 
> I use mine in the warm season then go to a Little Joe or SuperC for winter 
> riding.
> I like the Barley enough to own two:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/79695460@N00/6922766182/
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/79695460@N00/6897752730/in/photostream/
>  
> Yehuda may recommend the Nelson:
> http://yehudamoon.com/index.php?date=2008-03-17
>  
>

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[RBW] New A Homer Hilson

[Toshi Takeuchi]

I am the proud owner of a new "Legolas Blue" A Homer Hilson.  It is my
dream brevet bike and I'm leaning towards using it on a brevet this
weekend! I fixed it up with a front bag, saddlebag and light for the
ride and will take some more pics.

Toshi

See the 2 pics loaded by octopus80:

http://www.flickr.com/groups/rivendell/pool/tags/ahomerhilsen/

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