[RBW] Re: Vittoria 1976 Men's Cycling Shoe

[Alex Moll]

Kris,

I'm using the Vittoria 1976 shoes with Speedplay Frogs. I like them
very much. Elliott Bay Bicycles in Seattle carries them.

Alex Moll
Marysville, WA

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[RBW] FS: Clarks of Harrow frameset, Lots of Parts, Nitto, Velo Orange, etc

[Dan Bracey]

Well, my wife says it is time to get all of the unused bike parts out of our 
tiny apartment.  Here is a long list of parts, including an interesting 
frame.  There should be links to images for each part.  The whole gallery is 
here:

https://picasaweb.google.com/112399454302428216350/BikeParts03?authuser=0&feat=directlink

I'll try to update the list as things sell.  You can either pick them up 
from my apt if you are in NYC, otherwise paypal to dlbra...@gmail.com is 
preferred and buyer will pay actual shipping cost (as cheap as possible). 
 I'm leaving the country for two weeks on Sept 2, so I'll try to ship as 
much as possible before I leave, otherwise you'll have to wait until I'm 
back on Sept 19:


*Clark's of Harrow 56 cm Reynolds 531 Lugged 
Frameset
*

I purchased this frame last October from a Bike Forums member.  The frame 
(even with the paint imperfections) is beautiful, just too small for me. 
 The photos that I've included are of the way it was built up by the 
previous owner.  I rode the bike twice since I've own the frame.

>From the resarch I have done, Clark's of Harrow was a cycle shop in Harrow, 
London in the 1950s-60s.  It is not clear to me if Clark's of Harrow 
produced their own frames or if they branded frames from other London 
builders.  One London builder, Wally Green, built frames for Ivor Clark of 
Harrow during this time period, so it is possible that this is a Wally Green 
made frame from the late 1950s. You can read more about Wally Green here:

http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/builders/wallygreen.html

The frameset has a 56cm seat tube (c-t) and a 56 cm top tube. Chain stays 
are 17". I think the photos show the condition reasonably well--some chips 
all around but particularly on the left-side chain stay, but the finish 
overall is in quite good shape and the lug lining is well preserved. 
Reynolds 531 db tubing, Simplex rear dropouts. 

Price is $150 plus actual shipping cost.  Sale includes frame, fork, 
seatpost, and Campy headset (which has some external pitting, but bearing 
surfaces are good).


*Drivetrain:*
 
Silver Bar End 
Shifters
 – 
Used for one season – plastic washers are cracked, easy replacement - $45
 
Shimano 600 
Arabesque
 (Double) 
Front Derailleur - used, but good shape - $15 
 
Shimano HG70 
Cassette
 - 
 8 speed - 11/27, Used, Good Condition, Clean- $15
 
Shimano CS-6500 
Cassette
 – 
9 speed – 12/27 - $40
 
Campagnolo Chorus Sealed Bearing Bottom 
Bracket
 – 
English Threaded – 103 mm - $15


*Brakes, Levers, hoods:*
 
Dia Compe Model 
750
 Centerpull 
brake set – New - $30
 
VO City Brake 
Levers
 – 
22.2 - $8 
 
Ultegra 6600 Brifter 
Hoods
 – 
Black – New - $15

Campagnolo Non Aero Brake 
Levers
 - 
Used, Gum hoods are dry - $15
 
 
*Headsets, Stems, Etc:*
 
Velo Orange Grand Cru 1 1/8" Threadless 
Headset
 - 
$30 
 
Campagnolo Chorus 1” Threaded 
headset
 – 
cups worn, but life left - $15
 
Nitto 1” Quill 
Stem
 90mm 
- $18
 
Velo Orange 
Stem
 – 
Silver - 6 Deg Rise, 26mm clamp, 80mm long - $30 
 
Ritchey Pro 
Stem
 - 
30 deg rise, 31.8mm clamp, 110mm long - $50
 
IRO 
Stem
 – 
Black - 6 deg rise, 26mm clamp, ~100mm long - $10

Various size 1 1/8” headset spacers (lots of them, different sizes, mostly 
silver) - $1 each, let me know what sizes you need
 
 
*Handlebars:*
 
Soma Fabrications 456 Track 
Handlebar
 (25.4 
x 44) – Mounted, never ridden - $30
 
Velo Orange Tourist 
Handlebar
 22.2 
- $18
 
IRO drop handlebars - 42 cm – Black - $15 
 
 
*Saddles/Seatpost:*
 
VO Model 5 
Saddle

Re: [RBW] FS: Clarks of Harrow frameset, Lots of Parts, Nitto, Velo Orange, etc

[PATRICK MOORE]

Dan: since the Model 5 is now on sale for $65 at VO, would you
consider selling yours for $50 shipped to 87120? If so, I'll take it.

Thanks, Patrick

On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 2:58 PM, Dan Bracey  wrote:
> Well, my wife says it is time to get all of the unused bike parts out of our
> tiny apartment.  Here is a long list of parts, including an interesting
> frame.  There should be links to images for each part.  The whole gallery is
> here:
> https://picasaweb.google.com/112399454302428216350/BikeParts03?authuser=0&feat=directlink
>
> I'll try to update the list as things sell.  You can either pick them up
> from my apt if you are in NYC, otherwise paypal to dlbra...@gmail.com is
> preferred and buyer will pay actual shipping cost (as cheap as possible).
>  I'm leaving the country for two weeks on Sept 2, so I'll try to ship as
> much as possible before I leave, otherwise you'll have to wait until I'm
> back on Sept 19:
>
> Clark's of Harrow 56 cm Reynolds 531 Lugged Frameset
> I purchased this frame last October from a Bike Forums member.  The frame
> (even with the paint imperfections) is beautiful, just too small for me.
>  The photos that I've included are of the way it was built up by the
> previous owner.  I rode the bike twice since I've own the frame.
> From the resarch I have done, Clark's of Harrow was a cycle shop in Harrow,
> London in the 1950s-60s.  It is not clear to me if Clark's of Harrow
> produced their own frames or if they branded frames from other London
> builders.  One London builder, Wally Green, built frames for Ivor Clark of
> Harrow during this time period, so it is possible that this is a Wally Green
> made frame from the late 1950s. You can read more about Wally Green here:
> http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/builders/wallygreen.html
> The frameset has a 56cm seat tube (c-t) and a 56 cm top tube. Chain stays
> are 17". I think the photos show the condition reasonably well--some chips
> all around but particularly on the left-side chain stay, but the finish
> overall is in quite good shape and the lug lining is well preserved.
> Reynolds 531 db tubing, Simplex rear dropouts.
> Price is $150 plus actual shipping cost.  Sale includes frame, fork,
> seatpost, and Campy headset (which has some external pitting, but bearing
> surfaces are good).
>
> Drivetrain:
>
> Silver Bar End Shifters – Used for one season – plastic washers are cracked,
> easy replacement - $45
>
> Shimano 600 Arabesque (Double) Front Derailleur - used, but good shape -
> $15
>
> Shimano HG70 Cassette -  8 speed - 11/27, Used, Good Condition, Clean- $15
>
> Shimano CS-6500 Cassette – 9 speed – 12/27 - $40
>
> Campagnolo Chorus Sealed Bearing Bottom Bracket – English Threaded – 103 mm
> - $15
>
> Brakes, Levers, hoods:
>
> Dia Compe Model 750 Centerpull brake set – New - $30
>
> VO City Brake Levers – 22.2 - $8
>
> Ultegra 6600 Brifter Hoods – Black – New - $15
> Campagnolo Non Aero Brake Levers - Used, Gum hoods are dry - $15
>
>
> Headsets, Stems, Etc:
>
> Velo Orange Grand Cru 1 1/8" Threadless Headset - $30
>
> Campagnolo Chorus 1” Threaded headset – cups worn, but life left - $15
>
> Nitto 1” Quill Stem 90mm - $18
>
> Velo Orange Stem – Silver - 6 Deg Rise, 26mm clamp, 80mm long - $30
>
> Ritchey Pro Stem - 30 deg rise, 31.8mm clamp, 110mm long - $50
>
> IRO Stem – Black - 6 deg rise, 26mm clamp, ~100mm long - $10
> Various size 1 1/8” headset spacers (lots of them, different sizes, mostly
> silver) - $1 each, let me know what sizes you need
>
>
> Handlebars:
>
> Soma Fabrications 456 Track Handlebar (25.4 x 44) – Mounted, never ridden -
> $30
>
> Velo Orange Tourist Handlebar 22.2 - $18
>
> IRO drop handlebars - 42 cm – Black - $15
>
>
> Saddles/Seatpost:
>
> VO Model 5 Saddle – Black – Like New - $50
>
> Koobi Au Enduro Saddle - Used for 2 seasons - $50
>
> Nitto Dynamic 626 - 27.2mm - Used - $25
>
>
> Tires (sold as pairs):
>
> Schwalbe Delta Cruiser – 700C X 28 – Cream – Less than 50 miles - $50
>
> Schwalbe Marathon Supreme – 700C x 40 – Used, life left - $40
>
>
> Random Parts:
>
> Rear wheel – VO PBP Rim Laced to VO Prototype fixed hub (freewheel not
> included)- $85
>
> Nashbar Mountain SPD pedals with cleats – Red - used, very good condition -
> $15
>
> Salsa Lip Lock Seatpost clamp - 30.0mm - Silver - $10
>
> VO Cork Grips – Lacquered - $8
>
> Wald Rear Bike Rack – Chrome – New - $12
> Email me at dlbra...@gmail.com.  Please let me know if any prices are way
> off.
> Dan
>
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>



-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For prof

[RBW] Logo Removal

[Kris]

Is there a tried and true way to remove logos from aluminum parts?  In
my case it's the "Tektro" from the R200A Tektro levers.

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[RBW] Re: Interesting refutation of Gary Taubes' obesity ideas

[EricP]

Yes, for some it is easier than others.  Been trying to decide whether
to participate in either of these threads for a while.  Will admit
that, first off, this whole concept is making me question as an
(severely) overweight person I should even be riding and/or owning a
Rivendell bike.  Maybe at 6' and 225 I'm too fat to actually ride one
and need to get over this fantasy of owning a bike like my Sam
Hillborne.

For me, all grains (and fruit, nuts, etc.) contribute to my still
excess weight.  And worsened by long distance bike rides.  Eat and
drink too much when attempting them.  Probably why I won't ride a
century again.  My body seems to gain between 3 and 5 pounds during
the ride and post-ride meal.  Worse than any supposed healthful
benefits of the ride.

And, admittedly, a part of this is frustration.  My doctor has been
critical of lack of current progress.  Yes, I have lost 145 pounds
since this whole thing started.  At least 30 and preferably 50 more is
necessary.

Okay, said too much.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN


On Aug 29, 8:22 pm, charlie  wrote:
> Rex, re-read Grants post above.. ; )
>
> On Aug 29, 2:06 pm, Rex Kerr  wrote:
>
>
>
> > I went from around 230 and completely out of shape to my current 175 (@
> > 6'4", maintained for 3 years) by switching from a typical American diet, to
> > a vegetarian diet that included a lot of whole grains, and riding a lot
> > more.  Somehow the widely accepted methods worked for me.
>
> > On Fri, Aug 26, 2011 at 2:11 PM, Eric Daume  wrote:
> > > That's the point of the book: this isn't universally accepted. We've been
> > > pushed this viewpoint for 30 years, but where's the great downsizing of
> > > America? One of Taubes main points is that the science behind low fat/high
> > > fiber/calories in/calories out is very, very poor.
>
> > > Eric Daume
> > > Dublin, OH
>
> > > On Fri, Aug 26, 2011 at 1:27 PM, Patrick in VT wrote:
>
> > >> with respect, what does low-fat, hardly any meat/nearly vegetarian
> > >> (same thing, right?) have to do with her condition?  low saturated
> > >> fat, nearly vegetarian (as in, eating vegetables, fruits, non-animal
> > >> whole foods) is universally accepted as a healthful way to eat.
> > >> There's no arguing that.
>
> > >  --
> > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> > > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com.
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> > > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > > For more options, visit this group at
> > >http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] PBP 2011 Ride Photos - a set on Flickr

[Eric Norris]

My photos from Paris-Brest-Paris, which I completed on a lugged steel, 
friction-shifting, leather-saddled road bike:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176895@N03/sets/72157627550599380/ 

Watch for my complete video of the adventure, coming soon!

--Eric
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
www.wheelsnorth.org

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[RBW] Re: Interesting refutation of Gary Taubes' obesity ideas

[Patrick in VT]

On Aug 27, 11:24 am, grant  wrote:

> If you can do it by exercising hard and long, and will power, and calorie 
> restriction---
> and you can maintain that without feeling like the fat-wolf is at the
> door---that's great.

insulin:  if it's really the key, and Taubes is right, i have wonder
why BigPharma isn't all over this.  seems like a great idea for a
pill, no?

exercise:  there's no need to exercise "long and hard."  it's simply a
matter of being active.  as another poster mentioned, folks find all
kinds of ways to "exercise" - gardening, taking the dogs for a walk a
few times a day, and generally not sitting on the couch in front of
the television from 6:00-10:00 at night.

will power:  in the same post, you wrote that restricting carbs is not
EASY.  this implies that will power is part of the low carb diet
equation too.

calorie restriction:  if a person is obese, that person needs to cut
calories. again, you tie the term "undereating" to calorie restriction
which is a complete red herring.  eating an appropriate amount of food
and practicing portion control is not undereating.

If Taubes is working for people, great!  But the notion that the only
other way to get there is by grueling exercise, buddha-esque will
power and undereating is ridiculous.  It's not just a few lucky people
with good genetics who get to live fit healthy lives and eat carbs.

Eating for health and eating for weight loss are two entirely
different things - most folks are interested in the latter and less
concerned with the former for obvious reasons.  it's frustrating, but
i don't begrudge that.  as long as the two aren't confused.

Patrick





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[RBW] Re: shorty striped socks or similar

[Thomas Lynn Skean]

I bought over half-dozen pair of the as-much-wool-as-possible Northland 
Woolens socks from RBW (the ones they sold before they switched to the 
80/20s). It was weird. Some of thsoe lasted over a dozen wearings (sweet, 
sweet wearings!). Others lasted one. They must've been very subject to the 
specific fibers being used, or some slight change in the construction. I 
don't particularly like wearing socks when I'm just lounging around the 
house. But if that's someone's thang, they'd've been marvelous for that. 
With my not-so-
 
I think I'm going to give the 75/25 mohair/nylon socks a try. I like socks 
way too big. I wear 11.5 shoes. So socks intended for 13-14 feet might 
actually work for me. (The current largest size of the Koala/Kangaroo socks 
from RBW are okay for me. But they'd be better if they were just a little 
bigger.)
 
I do wish the Thermohair web-site showed the shipping cost. I really dislike 
buying anything without knowing the actual cost of acquisition (cost of 
ownership, cost of usage... those are different). I'll have to give them a 
call. Sigh.
 
Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

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[RBW] Re: Nitto Big Front + Fenders

[Thomas Lynn Skean]

Would a tiny p-clamp (or even a tiny hose-clamp) wrapped around a lateral 
rack platform brace provide a way to anchor the fender (via a spacer, 
probably: cork?)
 
Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean
 

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[RBW] Our Site Is Down

[John Bennett]

Appropriate people notified. Call if you need anything before the
issue is resolved.

800 345 3918.

As the saying goes, "Operators are standing by."

Thanks!

John at RBW HQ

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[RBW] Re: Our Site Is Down

[John Bennett]

Site back up. Whew.



On Aug 30, 9:16 am, John Bennett  wrote:
> Appropriate people notified. Call if you need anything before the
> issue is resolved.
>
> 800 345 3918.
>
> As the saying goes, "Operators are standing by."
>
> Thanks!
>
> John at RBW HQ

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[RBW] Re: PBP 2011 Ride Photos - a set on Flickr

[Bob Cooper]

Superb collection. Do you want to provide more info (text)?

Bob Cooper

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Re: [RBW] Re: PBP 2011 Ride Photos - a set on Flickr

[Eric Norris]

I'll be working on captions soon.

--Eric N
Sent from the iPad 2

On Aug 30, 2011, at 8:20 AM, Bob Cooper  wrote:

> Superb collection. Do you want to provide more info (text)?
> 
> Bob Cooper
> 
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> 

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[RBW] Re: Our Site Is Down

[Joe Bernard]

"You, too, can be a standby operator! Call now, operators are standing by!"
 
Dan Akroyd - SNL

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[RBW] Re: Interesting refutation of Gary Taubes' obesity ideas

[Roger]

I hear you Eric.

Like you, Scott, and I'm sure others who care a great deal about this
subject have largely done, I've been hesitant to post about it with
people who don't face the same challenges and are only mildly
interested. I choose not to debate my issues here, but I want you to
know that you are not alone. Keep doing what you need to do, and
contact me any time, if you like.


On Aug 30, 6:44 am, EricP  wrote:
> Yes, for some it is easier than others.  Been trying to decide whether
> to participate in either of these threads for a while.  Will admit
> that, first off, this whole concept is making me question as an
> (severely) overweight person I should even be riding and/or owning a
> Rivendell bike.  Maybe at 6' and 225 I'm too fat to actually ride one
> and need to get over this fantasy of owning a bike like my Sam
> Hillborne.
>
> For me, all grains (and fruit, nuts, etc.) contribute to my still
> excess weight.  And worsened by long distance bike rides.  Eat and
> drink too much when attempting them.  Probably why I won't ride a
> century again.  My body seems to gain between 3 and 5 pounds during
> the ride and post-ride meal.  Worse than any supposed healthful
> benefits of the ride.
>
> And, admittedly, a part of this is frustration.  My doctor has been
> critical of lack of current progress.  Yes, I have lost 145 pounds
> since this whole thing started.  At least 30 and preferably 50 more is
> necessary.
>
> Okay, said too much.
>
> Eric Platt
> St. Paul, MN
>
> On Aug 29, 8:22 pm, charlie  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Rex, re-read Grants post above.. ; )
>
> > On Aug 29, 2:06 pm, Rex Kerr  wrote:
>
> > > I went from around 230 and completely out of shape to my current 175 (@
> > > 6'4", maintained for 3 years) by switching from a typical American diet, 
> > > to
> > > a vegetarian diet that included a lot of whole grains, and riding a lot
> > > more.  Somehow the widely accepted methods worked for me.
>
> > > On Fri, Aug 26, 2011 at 2:11 PM, Eric Daume  wrote:
> > > > That's the point of the book: this isn't universally accepted. We've 
> > > > been
> > > > pushed this viewpoint for 30 years, but where's the great downsizing of
> > > > America? One of Taubes main points is that the science behind low 
> > > > fat/high
> > > > fiber/calories in/calories out is very, very poor.
>
> > > > Eric Daume
> > > > Dublin, OH
>
> > > > On Fri, Aug 26, 2011 at 1:27 PM, Patrick in VT 
> > > > wrote:
>
> > > >> with respect, what does low-fat, hardly any meat/nearly vegetarian
> > > >> (same thing, right?) have to do with her condition?  low saturated
> > > >> fat, nearly vegetarian (as in, eating vegetables, fruits, non-animal
> > > >> whole foods) is universally accepted as a healthful way to eat.
> > > >> There's no arguing that.
>
> > > >  --
> > > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
> > > > Groups
> > > > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> > > > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com.
> > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
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>
> > - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: FS: 56cm Hillborne Frame and fork

[William]

Bump.  I got two quick nibbles, but both have passed.  One I think was just 
an interested nibble.  The other said "I'll buy it", but then ran across a 
Hilsen that he's buying instead.

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[RBW] Re: Question about the World's Best straddle wire hanger (Tektro CR720)

[dougP]

Is this ever a timely discussion!  Just back from a tour in Oregon
featuring plenty of hills.  My wife's Atlantis is standard Riv build
with the low profile Shimano cantis and Shimano aero levers.  It does
have Kool Stop salmon pads.  In the past, she's mentioned the brakes
did not seem as good as the dual pivot sidepulls on her old Trek but
was OK with it.  This was her first trip with long downhills on the
Atlantis & she's really spooked by the lack of braking.

As a sidebar, I replaced my stock Shimano low profiles with Tektro 720
a few years ago & liked the modulation much better.  They are
noticeably more powerful than the Shimano but not as good as the
ancient Shimano high profile canti's on my 80s era MTB.

Now the question:  I need to get her more braking power but I doubt
the Tektros are enough.  She has small hands & does not have a strong
grip.  Are V-brakes a direct substitute?  Or do I also need to change
levers?

Thanks for your thoughts on this.

dougP

On Aug 29, 10:45 pm, Earl Grey  wrote:
> Thanks for that explanation, William,
>
> that was enlightening, and jives with my experience. The way my non-
> engineer's brain makes sense of this is this:
>
> The main brake cable moves up when you engage the brake. For a high
> profile canti to engage you also mostly need to pull up on the
> straddle wire, and inward a little. On a low profile canti, you mostly
> have to pull *in* on the straddle cable, while pulling up does very
> little good. So on a low profile canti the straddle cable has to
> change the direction of force from the main brake cable, and yes,
> that's easy to get wrong. On a high profile canti, the straddle cable
> serves merely as an extension of the brake cable transferring the
> brake force to both arms. It doesn't have to change the direction of
> the force, and is thus relatively immune to geometry. (I am sure this
> explanation won't satisfy an engineer, but it works for me) :)
>
> Gernot
>
> On Aug 30, 12:23 am, William  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Sheldon (RIP) did a great job of laying out the geometry factors, but didn't
> > really get to the punchline.  
>
> > The punchline, in my opinion is that the mechanical advantage of high
> > profile cantilevers is almost constant regardless of straddle cable length.
> >  Brakes like Tektro CR720s and old Mafacs and similar, has a particular
> > mechanical advantage.  You can adjust that a tiny bit, like a few percent,
> > by raising or lowering the straddle wire hanger, but you can't make a major
> > change, no matter where you put it.  The upshot is, if you like how those
> > brakes feel with your lever, then be happy, because there is almost nothing
> > you can do to mess it up.  If you don't like how they feel (probably because
> > of too little mechanical advantage), then you can tinker all day long with
> > straddle position, and it really won't do much.  A different lever that
> > changes mechanical advantage might make a difference.  A different brake pad
> > compound that doesn't need as much force to grab might make a difference,
> > but high profile cantilevers are not very tuneable.  You'll see some folks
> > running their straddle right above the fender, and others several inches
> > higher.  Those two setups won't feel a lot different, all else being equal.
> >  The Riv-ish upside to this is that if you use high profile cantis with a
> > lever that works, you can raise the straddle high to clear your rack,
> > fender, and fat tire, and still get similar braking.  
>
> > Low profile cantilevers are super tuneable, but that give you more
> > opportunity to get it wrong.  If you are forced to move the straddle to
> > clear a fender or rack, you may be disappointed at the major effect that had
> > on braking performance..  - Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Tell me I'm crazy

[dougP]

Patrick:

I dunno if you could be committed but you sure do take eccentricity to
a whole 'nother level.  Is there any grinding work in it for you to
do?

dougP

On Aug 29, 10:12 am, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> On Sat I bought a Workman folding utility trike to use as a grocery
> runabout; I've always hankered after a British racing trike, and this
> was a cheap ($200) way to get some of the fun, combine it with
> outstanding short distance carrying utility (3-paper-sack rear backet)
> and try out tricycling. I need to raise the gear to 60 or 65" from the
> current 40" (have a bb converter for the OPC bb from Harris on order),
> and I figured this was as close as I'd get to a racing trike for a
> long while. I've been riding it and having great fun.
>
> But this morning I talked to Dave Porter about my Herse (generator
> modifications) and Citroen (restoration) and he told me he could
> convert a bicycle frame to a right hand drive trike. Now I've got a
> wonderful, 1999 Joe Starck 650C fixed gofast hanging on the wall not
> being ridden much (the newer but very similar Riv, now with the Kojaks
> and with racks and, soon, Civia flat alum fenders gets much more use).
> I've put not quite 11K miles on the '99 since it was delivered in
> April, 1999.
>
> So: I am seriously thinking of having Dave do a top quality trike
> conversion job with the '99. It will be a fixed gear or ss for
> simplicity and because I enjoy that sort of riding, and will have
> provision for an easy on/off bag platform or basket. I'd use a front
> fender. I'd also use what I can of the very nice 650c wheels, since I
> have an extra 571 Sun rim or two.
>
> What do y'all think? Eccentricity, or a descent into madness?
>
> --
> Patrick Moore
> Albuquerque, NM
> For professional resumes, contact
> Patrick Moore, ACRW
> patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com
>
> A billion stars go spinning through the night
> Blazing high above your head;
> But in you is the Presence that will be
> When all the stars are dead.
> (Rilke, Buddha in Glory)

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[RBW] Re: why do people like front rando bags?

[dougP]

I agree with all the above re:  ease of access & convenience.  My
Acorn Boxy Rando has a couple of small pockets facing me.  My cell
phone goes in one, and I can hear the phone ring, stop the bike and
answer it before it goes to voice mail.  This can be a blessing or a
curse, however.

dougP

On Aug 29, 1:27 pm, Liesl  wrote:
> I know I'm late on this thread, but I'd just like to add to the
> discussion that a Mark's Rack or Mini Front Rack with a Li'l Loafer /
> Sackville TrunkSack (small) is a swellegant solution.  It not only
> places the weight down lower and but keeps the ability to strap on a
> sweater, etc, to the top.  If you want more room, add a Keven's Bag /
> Sackville SaddleSack (XS) / Brand V Seat Bag to the bars and you've
> got great access, flexibility, and weight distribution.  Plus it works
> with any handlebar--including m'bars, which can be hard to bag so to
> speak--and smaller frames.
>
> This set-up has just about all of the things folks like about boxy
> rando bags . . . the only thing I wish it offered was the slide-off-
> the-rack-and-voila- it's- a-shoulder-bag aspect of the BarSack and
> BarSackRack!  The BarSack/BarSackRack is about the same in cost as the
> FrontRack/TrunkSack combo, but a front rack, I'd offer, is more
> flexible in what it can carry than a BarSackRack.  (Read this out loud
> and you'll swear the Riv collective is in cahoots with Dr. Seuss!)
>
> Okay, one last thing:  a TrunkSack or Li'l Loafer on the front is so
> dang dapper!
>
> yours,
> Liesl

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[RBW] Re: Question about the World's Best straddle wire hanger (Tektro CR720)

[William]

Normal drop bar brake levers do not pull enough cable to actuate typical 
V-brakes.  There are special levers that pull more cable. and there are 
inline pulley solutions that correct the cable rate issues.  Small-handed, 
weak-gripped riders have a significant challenge getting 
confidence-inspiring brake performance with traditional rim brakes, 
especially on loaded bikes.  It's non-Rivendell, but you might want to allow 
her to test ride a bike with disk brakes as you plan out your upgrades.  

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[RBW] Anyone want to trade? My Moustache for your Albatross?

[jinxed]

I have 2 bikes that get the lions share of my riding. They are both set up 
nearly identical with moustache bars. I want to change one of them up.

SO...that said, I have a pair of used - not abused Nitto Moustache RM-016 
bars I'd like to trade for the equivalent alloy Nitto Albatross.

Let me know if this strikes a fancy.

hbclick at yahoo dot com
Cheers!
Brad in Denver

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[RBW] Re: Logo Removal

[rob markwardt]

Goof Off and fine steel wool will take about any logo.  I'm kind of
obsessed about removing stickers and logos and have had good luck with
that combo.

On Aug 30, 6:36 am, Kris  wrote:
> Is there a tried and true way to remove logos from aluminum parts?  In
> my case it's the "Tektro" from the R200A Tektro levers.

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Re: [RBW] Logo Removal

[Seth Vidal]

On Tue, Aug 30, 2011 at 9:36 AM, Kris  wrote:
> Is there a tried and true way to remove logos from aluminum parts?  In
> my case it's the "Tektro" from the R200A Tektro levers.
>

Get a q-tip and some nail polish remover.

Dip, rub, repeat.


it'll come off clean as a whistle.

-sv

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[RBW] Re: FS: 49cm 650b Bleriot ~ Stock Riv Build

[Ian Dickson]

It's probably too big for my wife, but can you tell me how tall your wife 
is, and how well the bike fit her with the Albatross bars? Thanks.

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Re: [RBW] Logo Removal

[Garth]

I use Brasso for removing logos , works like charm .

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Re: [RBW] Logo Removal

[erik jensen]

ride your bike and you'll eventually rub it off on bushes and other
trailside detritus.

~erik

On Tue, Aug 30, 2011 at 1:39 PM, Seth Vidal  wrote:

> On Tue, Aug 30, 2011 at 9:36 AM, Kris  wrote:
> > Is there a tried and true way to remove logos from aluminum parts?  In
> > my case it's the "Tektro" from the R200A Tektro levers.
> >
>
> Get a q-tip and some nail polish remover.
>
> Dip, rub, repeat.
>
>
> it'll come off clean as a whistle.
>
> -sv
>
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>


-- 
oakland, ca
bikenoir.blogspot.com

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tell me I'm crazy

[PATRICK MOORE]

The fever has abated and I am more or less rational again. In fact, I
took the bike in question out for what I had hoped to be a nice 20
mile or so out-and-back, planning to stop at a wonderful little,
rustic, hole-in-wall bike shop in highend horsetown, Corrales, NM, to
wit, Stevie's Happy Bikes (where I picked up my Worksman folder and
left my Parliament folding 20" bike for overhaul and powdercoating,
this on Saturday.) But the fates, the lesser gods or karma was er were
against me and I suffered no fewer than 4 flats in the truncated, only
18 mile (had to rush home via a shortcut to try to catch a business
call) ride, thanks -- first 3 -- to a slipping rimstrip and, #4, on
the way home, to some elusive penetrant. Fortunately I had made it to
Corrales when #3 occured and I had to walk only half a mile in my Keo
cleats -- having used up my two spares -- before a friendly pickup
driver picked me up and deposited me at Stevies, where I bought 2 more
tubes, patch kit and Velox and put in tube #4. Steve and company let
me patch inside and use their pump. Nice guy, nice shop, with some
truly wonderful old stuff.

Anyway: it's a wonderful bike. The 571X23 Contis are harsh compared to
the Kojacks, but not as harsh as you'd think and the bike is
wonderfully comfortable, light, and fast, fast fast, the 75" gear is
just right, if I warm up properly. No, I will find a nice 531 or so
frame and have Dave hack it for a trike -- God willing.

As a consolation prize I picked up a 24 oz bottle of Rogue (brand)
Dead Guy Ale (model) that fit perfectly in the Iris cage -- to drink
at home, of course.

On Tue, Aug 30, 2011 at 1:00 PM, dougP  wrote:
> Patrick:
>
> I dunno if you could be committed but you sure do take eccentricity to
> a whole 'nother level.  Is there any grinding work in it for you to
> do?
>
> dougP
>
> On Aug 29, 10:12 am, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
>> On Sat I bought a Workman folding utility trike to use as a grocery
>> runabout; I've always hankered after a British racing trike, and this
>> was a cheap ($200) way to get some of the fun, combine it with
>> outstanding short distance carrying utility (3-paper-sack rear backet)
>> and try out tricycling. I need to raise the gear to 60 or 65" from the
>> current 40" (have a bb converter for the OPC bb from Harris on order),
>> and I figured this was as close as I'd get to a racing trike for a
>> long while. I've been riding it and having great fun.
>>
>> But this morning I talked to Dave Porter about my Herse (generator
>> modifications) and Citroen (restoration) and he told me he could
>> convert a bicycle frame to a right hand drive trike. Now I've got a
>> wonderful, 1999 Joe Starck 650C fixed gofast hanging on the wall not
>> being ridden much (the newer but very similar Riv, now with the Kojaks
>> and with racks and, soon, Civia flat alum fenders gets much more use).
>> I've put not quite 11K miles on the '99 since it was delivered in
>> April, 1999.
>>
>> So: I am seriously thinking of having Dave do a top quality trike
>> conversion job with the '99. It will be a fixed gear or ss for
>> simplicity and because I enjoy that sort of riding, and will have
>> provision for an easy on/off bag platform or basket. I'd use a front
>> fender. I'd also use what I can of the very nice 650c wheels, since I
>> have an extra 571 Sun rim or two.
>>
>> What do y'all think? Eccentricity, or a descent into madness?
>>
>> --
>> Patrick Moore
>> Albuquerque, NM
>> For professional resumes, contact
>> Patrick Moore, ACRW
>> patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com
>>
>> A billion stars go spinning through the night
>> Blazing high above your head;
>> But in you is the Presence that will be
>> When all the stars are dead.
>> (Rilke, Buddha in Glory)
>
> --
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>



-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW
patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.
(Rilke, Buddha in Glory)

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[RBW] Re: Question about the World's Best straddle wire hanger (Tektro CR720)

[Michael Hechmer]

Doug, you pose the perfect question for me to share my experience with 
cantilevers and why I continue to believe in hi straddle and hi profile 
cantis.

My first experience with cantis, after years of good riding with Campy Grand 
Sport LR brakes and Chorus SR brakes came around 2000, when I bought a SOMA 
DBL Cross for commuting and had it outfitted with my first Ultegra 9 spd. 
system and the then new Ultegra Low Profile canti brakes.   The bike and 
brakes were installed by the best mechanic in VT, including the very short 
straddle wire supplied by Shimano.  Braking was awful, downright scary for 
commuting.  I replaced the pads with Salmons and that helped somewhat.  I 
finally abandoned the SIS brifters, replacing with Cane Creek & Silver 
shiftes and the braking rose to the level of OK.  Setup, with Shimano 
Brifters, was also pretty tedious and the brakes needed to be re-centered 
every time I put the bike into the back of the car or did any almost thing 
else.  The brifters, which were designed for short reach side pulls, simply 
did not work together with cants.  I have avoided low profile brakes (and 
briftes) ever since.

After a poor-braking-near-death-experience, I bought a pair of hi profile 
Pauls and found that with a very hi straddle wire, as recommended by Paul, I 
had easy set up and great braking. 

My next experience with Cantis was a pair of hi profile, short arm di comp 
which came on a 1984 Trek 620 I bought on ebay.  Much to my surprise these 
brakes also delivered mediocre power, even with salmon pads.

Now my Ram and my tandem have Paul's Racer Ms and Racers respectively.  My 
Ebisu has neo retros with a hi straddle wire and my now pretty beat up 
winter bike SOMA has those di comps, which I'm planning on replacing with 
Tektros and a hi straddle wire.

When I was much younger I would say, "Who needs brakes, they just slow you 
down!"  Now, medicare not withstanding, I really like having brakes I can 
rely on.  Intimations of mortality no doubt.

michael
recovering from lower back strain and Irene, in Vermont


 

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[RBW] Re: Question about the World's Best straddle wire hanger (Tektro CR720)

[dougP]

Michael:

Thanks for sharing your experiences.  I plan to try a high profile
canti set-up on my wife's Atlantis as a first measure.  Hopefully that
will replicate the braking performance of her old bike.  If not, I'll
look into V-brakes & new levers, but that probably has its own
learning curve.

dougP

On Aug 30, 2:53 pm, Michael Hechmer  wrote:
> Doug, you pose the perfect question for me to share my experience with
> cantilevers and why I continue to believe in hi straddle and hi profile
> cantis.
>
> My first experience with cantis, after years of good riding with Campy Grand
> Sport LR brakes and Chorus SR brakes came around 2000, when I bought a SOMA
> DBL Cross for commuting and had it outfitted with my first Ultegra 9 spd.
> system and the then new Ultegra Low Profile canti brakes.   The bike and
> brakes were installed by the best mechanic in VT, including the very short
> straddle wire supplied by Shimano.  Braking was awful, downright scary for
> commuting.  I replaced the pads with Salmons and that helped somewhat.  I
> finally abandoned the SIS brifters, replacing with Cane Creek & Silver
> shiftes and the braking rose to the level of OK.  Setup, with Shimano
> Brifters, was also pretty tedious and the brakes needed to be re-centered
> every time I put the bike into the back of the car or did any almost thing
> else.  The brifters, which were designed for short reach side pulls, simply
> did not work together with cants.  I have avoided low profile brakes (and
> briftes) ever since.
>
> After a poor-braking-near-death-experience, I bought a pair of hi profile
> Pauls and found that with a very hi straddle wire, as recommended by Paul, I
> had easy set up and great braking.
>
> My next experience with Cantis was a pair of hi profile, short arm di comp
> which came on a 1984 Trek 620 I bought on ebay.  Much to my surprise these
> brakes also delivered mediocre power, even with salmon pads.
>
> Now my Ram and my tandem have Paul's Racer Ms and Racers respectively.  My
> Ebisu has neo retros with a hi straddle wire and my now pretty beat up
> winter bike SOMA has those di comps, which I'm planning on replacing with
> Tektros and a hi straddle wire.
>
> When I was much younger I would say, "Who needs brakes, they just slow you
> down!"  Now, medicare not withstanding, I really like having brakes I can
> rely on.  Intimations of mortality no doubt.
>
> michael
> recovering from lower back strain and Irene, in Vermont

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[RBW] Re: why do people like front rando bags?

[Jim Cloud]

I have one of the original Nigel Smythe Lil Loafers that I frequently
use on my Rivendell Road Standard (photo:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37964304@N05/5432058115/in/set-72157625889961383/).
I agree that the Lil Loafer is very useful and elegant.  I also have a
Gilles Berthoud GB2886 handlebar bag, but for day rides of moderate
duration and length, the Lil Loafer suffices very well!

Jim Cloud
Tucson, AZ

On Aug 29, 1:27 pm, Liesl  wrote:
> I know I'm late on this thread, but I'd just like to add to the
> discussion that a Mark's Rack or Mini Front Rack with a Li'l Loafer /
> Sackville TrunkSack (small) is a swellegant solution.  It not only
> places the weight down lower and but keeps the ability to strap on a
> sweater, etc, to the top.  If you want more room, add a Keven's Bag /
> Sackville SaddleSack (XS) / Brand V Seat Bag to the bars and you've
> got great access, flexibility, and weight distribution.  Plus it works
> with any handlebar--including m'bars, which can be hard to bag so to
> speak--and smaller frames.
>
> This set-up has just about all of the things folks like about boxy
> rando bags . . . the only thing I wish it offered was the slide-off-
> the-rack-and-voila- it's- a-shoulder-bag aspect of the BarSack and
> BarSackRack!  The BarSack/BarSackRack is about the same in cost as the
> FrontRack/TrunkSack combo, but a front rack, I'd offer, is more
> flexible in what it can carry than a BarSackRack.  (Read this out loud
> and you'll swear the Riv collective is in cahoots with Dr. Seuss!)
>
> Okay, one last thing:  a TrunkSack or Li'l Loafer on the front is so
> dang dapper!
>
> yours,
> Liesl

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[RBW] Re: Interesting refutation of Gary Taubes' obesity ideas

[grant]

On Aug 30, 8:04 am, Patrick in VT  wrote:
> On Aug 27, 11:24 am, grant  wrote:
>
> > If you can do it by exercising hard and long, and will power, and calorie 
> > restriction---
> > and you can maintain that without feeling like the fat-wolf is at the
> > door---that's great.
>
> insulin:  if it's really the key, and Taubes is right, i have wonder
> why BigPharma isn't all over this.  seems like a great idea for a
> pill, no?

There are drugs for diabetes, but if the goal is to reduce the insulin
load, cutting carbs is the most powerful "pill." No side effects, etc.
Imagine, on another hand, that Type 2 diabetics and pre-diabetics were
told, "all you gotta do to control your insulin is to limit your
carbs." The ramifications are huge...and we aren't equipped to deal
with them. General Mills would have a cow, as would Sunkist,
Pepperidge Farms, Orowheat, and Pabst. Poor people would have to buy
one-pound cans of salmon at the dollar store. Farmers would not like
it. Everybody would get sued.

The reality is that --- if all this low-carby stuff is truish -- it
doesn't work for Somalia, Haiti, or poor America. That doesn't mean
that for any person or family who can afford it and doesn't have
religious or moral problems with eating meat, that is isn't healthier.
As the book points out, and as anybody who tries it will see, your
blood scores vastly improve when you eat fat and protein  in the near
absence of carbohydrates. The weight comes off almost
incidentallyalthough...it also comes off inevitably.
>
> exercise:  there's no need to exercise "long and hard."  it's simply a
> matter of being active.  as another poster mentioned, folks find all
> kinds of ways to "exercise" - gardening, taking the dogs for a walk a
> few times a day, and generally not sitting on the couch in front of
> the television from 6:00-10:00 at night.
>
> will power:  in the same post, you wrote that restricting carbs is not
> EASY.  this implies that will power is part of the low carb diet
> equation too.

"Will power" is another topic, but we can all think of lots of
difficult tasks in which WP isn't part of the equation. The hard part
of cutting carbs is seeing the French toast with blueberries and real
maple syrup...and not eating it. If the guy looks and doesn't want to
eat it and knows that if he does, he'll regret it...and then eats it
anywayit's easy to say he had a failure of will. BUT if the only
argument for "failure of will" is having eaten it...that's what's
known in some circles as an explanatory fiction, and in others as
"circular logic."

>
> calorie restriction:  if a person is obese, that person needs to cut
> calories. again, you tie the term "undereating" to calorie restriction
> which is a complete red herring.  eating an appropriate amount of food
> and practicing portion control is not undereating.
>
> If Taubes is working for people, great!  But the notion that the only
> other way to get there is by grueling exercise, buddha-esque will
> power and undereating is ridiculous.  It's not just a few lucky people
> with good genetics who get to live fit healthy lives and eat carbs.
>
> Eating for health and eating for weight loss are two entirely
> different things - most folks are interested in the latter and less
> concerned with the former for obvious reasons.  it's frustrating, but
> i don't begrudge that.  as long as the two aren't confused.
>
> Patrick

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[RBW] FS: Berthoud GB367 Panniers

[Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery]

I am selling my GB367 panniers in black, pictured here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/twowheelflight/3601726415/

Measurements are 320 mm (13") high, 300 mm (12") wide, 200 mm (8") deep, 
which adds up to 33L. There is lacing on the side to compress the depth of 
the pannier when it's not filled to capacity.

I used them during a week-long tour in 2009 (when the above photo was 
taken), but have not used them much since. They are amazingly well made, 
wonderful to use, and GORGEOUS, but they've simply been collecting dust as I 
experiment with other touring equipment. Not new, but very close to it. 
Yellow raincovers included. $300 shipped CONUS. Please contact off-list if 
interested.

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Re: [RBW] Re: PBP 2011 Ride Photos - a set on Flickr

[cyclotourist]

EXCELLENT!  I am consistently amazed by you super-randonneur types!  So how
was is with gears vs. fixed???

On Tue, Aug 30, 2011 at 10:37 AM, Eric Norris  wrote:

> I'll be working on captions soon.
>
> --Eric N
> Sent from the iPad 2
>
> On Aug 30, 2011, at 8:20 AM, Bob Cooper 
> wrote:
>
> > Superb collection. Do you want to provide more info (text)?
> >
> > Bob Cooper
> >
> > --
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> >
>
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>
>


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Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

*...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would
probably benefit more from
improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS

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[RBW] Re: PBP 2011 Ride Photos - a set on Flickr

[Solomander]

Nice pix!  Congratulations on an impressive accomplishment.

Joel

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[RBW] Looking for a VO Viva Saddlebag Support

[Eric]

Anyone have one they're interested in parting with?

I have the old "large" Acorn saddlebag on a Brooks Flyer.  The bag
hangs funny and rests on the springs.  It's hangs too far from the
seat post to somehow secure it there or to use a stand-off.  I need it
to stand back from the seat post about 5 inches to sit "right."

Looks like perhaps the VO Viva Saddlebag Support might work here.

Please let me know if you've got one or another idea.

Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: Question about the World's Best straddle wire hanger (Tektro CR720)

[Philip Williamson]

I look back on the last 15 years of my cycling life, and I gotta say.
Cantis suck. Single pivot sidepulls suck. The disc brakes on my weirdo
project bike brake very well, but go 'shk shk shk' in corners. The
nicer Avid v-brakes on my 1999 Bontrager have, aside from the initial
squealy pads ("hey, someone set these up without ceramic pads, let me
change that for you")... have been absolutely trouble free for 11
years. I've changed the pads a couple times. They have excellent
modulation, good stopping in wet or dry; I can do nosies on purpose,
but never on accident (well, once).

Cantis for me are a crapshoot. I've set up dynamite dialed-in cantis a
couple times, and as the pad wears, the braking degrades. Sometimes
the canti arm dives under the rim (well, once). I study the charts,
change out the pads (why should you even have to DO this?), finesse
the setup, and then forget everything I learned the next time I have
to set them up from scratch.

I just hate the way v-brakes look on a roadified bike. They look like
ass. I can't imagine putting them on my Quickbeam, but I don't want to
sell a bike just to buy some green anodized Paul cantis.

Actually, maybe I do.

 Philip

 Philip Williamson
www.biketinker.com



On Aug 30, 4:33 pm, dougP  wrote:
> Michael:
>
> Thanks for sharing your experiences.  I plan to try a high profile
> canti set-up on my wife's Atlantis as a first measure.  Hopefully that
> will replicate the braking performance of her old bike.  If not, I'll
> look into V-brakes & new levers, but that probably has its own
> learning curve.
>
> dougP
>
> On Aug 30, 2:53 pm, Michael Hechmer  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Doug, you pose the perfect question for me to share my experience with
> > cantilevers and why I continue to believe in hi straddle and hi profile
> > cantis.
>
> > My first experience with cantis, after years of good riding with Campy Grand
> > Sport LR brakes and Chorus SR brakes came around 2000, when I bought a SOMA
> > DBL Cross for commuting and had it outfitted with my first Ultegra 9 spd.
> > system and the then new Ultegra Low Profile canti brakes.   The bike and
> > brakes were installed by the best mechanic in VT, including the very short
> > straddle wire supplied by Shimano.  Braking was awful, downright scary for
> > commuting.  I replaced the pads with Salmons and that helped somewhat.  I
> > finally abandoned the SIS brifters, replacing with Cane Creek & Silver
> > shiftes and the braking rose to the level of OK.  Setup, with Shimano
> > Brifters, was also pretty tedious and the brakes needed to be re-centered
> > every time I put the bike into the back of the car or did any almost thing
> > else.  The brifters, which were designed for short reach side pulls, simply
> > did not work together with cants.  I have avoided low profile brakes (and
> > briftes) ever since.
>
> > After a poor-braking-near-death-experience, I bought a pair of hi profile
> > Pauls and found that with a very hi straddle wire, as recommended by Paul, I
> > had easy set up and great braking.
>
> > My next experience with Cantis was a pair of hi profile, short arm di comp
> > which came on a 1984 Trek 620 I bought on ebay.  Much to my surprise these
> > brakes also delivered mediocre power, even with salmon pads.
>
> > Now my Ram and my tandem have Paul's Racer Ms and Racers respectively.  My
> > Ebisu has neo retros with a hi straddle wire and my now pretty beat up
> > winter bike SOMA has those di comps, which I'm planning on replacing with
> > Tektros and a hi straddle wire.
>
> > When I was much younger I would say, "Who needs brakes, they just slow you
> > down!"  Now, medicare not withstanding, I really like having brakes I can
> > rely on.  Intimations of mortality no doubt.
>
> > michael
> > recovering from lower back strain and Irene, in Vermont

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[RBW] Re: Interesting refutation of Gary Taubes' obesity ideas

[charlie]

Grant, As usual you make sense.at least to me.
 Eric, I'm right there with you but I still have 58 more pounds to
loseI don't do super long rides now. Actually my limit is around
40-50 miles maximum. I can ride farther but it becomes grueling for me
at my current weight/age. I do ride to work from time to time which
ends up being a 32-36 mile day more or less. My normal ride is between
8.5 and 15 miles and that is it. I do some weight lifting, push my
lawnmower (1.6 acres with about 25% lawn ) and I am presently working
on my house doing some repair work. Actually the weight lifting is
better for fat lost than cardiovascular exercise but I love to bicycle
so I do it but in moderation.  For weights you only need to do 30
minutes four times a week. I also find it difficult to control my food
intake when I am 'overtraining' but if I pig out on carbs I (do) go
and ride for an hour or two just to burn them a little. I am under no
delusion that I am going to lose fat buy eating a boatload of carbs
and riding 50-100 miles.  I find it easier to control the urge to eat
when I exercise modestly and at lower intensity on the bike and the
same goes for the weights. If you want to burn a bunch of calories you
can exercise like a madman and you will lose weight but you have to
eat less and doing that makes me crazy and mildly depressed so I don't
anymore. Instead, I exercise modestly don't eat carbs except
vegetables and I do eat protein and fats. So far its been working and
I've been maintaining a good attitude most of the time. The 24 pounds
I have lost so far has been done doing virtually no exercise due to
bad weather, work demands and lack of proper rest. My riding this
summer (what little there is of it in Washington state) has been
sporadic so I know the food changes have been working. In previous
years when I have been able to ride more I would just compensate for
the calories I burned riding by eating more and my weight loss would
only go so far. If I didn't eat enough I couldn't do the volume of
exercise I was doing without getting depressed and winter would come
and I would gain it back because I couldn't ride enough. Crashing on
the ice didn't help either. I wouldn't regret owning a Rivendell or
riding it, just change the way you ride and learn how to eat and ride
the 'Paleo way' if fat loss is your goal. There are several trainers
who have written books on the subject.


On Aug 30, 6:06 pm, grant  wrote:
> On Aug 30, 8:04 am, Patrick in VT  wrote:
>
> > On Aug 27, 11:24 am, grant  wrote:
>
> > > If you can do it by exercising hard and long, and will power, and calorie 
> > > restriction---
> > > and you can maintain that without feeling like the fat-wolf is at the
> > > door---that's great.
>
> > insulin:  if it's really the key, and Taubes is right, i have wonder
> > why BigPharma isn't all over this.  seems like a great idea for a
> > pill, no?
>
> There are drugs for diabetes, but if the goal is to reduce the insulin
> load, cutting carbs is the most powerful "pill." No side effects, etc.
> Imagine, on another hand, that Type 2 diabetics and pre-diabetics were
> told, "all you gotta do to control your insulin is to limit your
> carbs." The ramifications are huge...and we aren't equipped to deal
> with them. General Mills would have a cow, as would Sunkist,
> Pepperidge Farms, Orowheat, and Pabst. Poor people would have to buy
> one-pound cans of salmon at the dollar store. Farmers would not like
> it. Everybody would get sued.
>
> The reality is that --- if all this low-carby stuff is truish -- it
> doesn't work for Somalia, Haiti, or poor America. That doesn't mean
> that for any person or family who can afford it and doesn't have
> religious or moral problems with eating meat, that is isn't healthier.
> As the book points out, and as anybody who tries it will see, your
> blood scores vastly improve when you eat fat and protein  in the near
> absence of carbohydrates. The weight comes off almost
> incidentallyalthough...it also comes off inevitably.
>
>
>
> > exercise:  there's no need to exercise "long and hard."  it's simply a
> > matter of being active.  as another poster mentioned, folks find all
> > kinds of ways to "exercise" - gardening, taking the dogs for a walk a
> > few times a day, and generally not sitting on the couch in front of
> > the television from 6:00-10:00 at night.
>
> > will power:  in the same post, you wrote that restricting carbs is not
> > EASY.  this implies that will power is part of the low carb diet
> > equation too.
>
> "Will power" is another topic, but we can all think of lots of
> difficult tasks in which WP isn't part of the equation. The hard part
> of cutting carbs is seeing the French toast with blueberries and real
> maple syrup...and not eating it. If the guy looks and doesn't want to
> eat it and knows that if he does, he'll regret it...and then eats it
> anywayit's easy to say he had a failure of will. BUT if the only
> argument for "failure of