[RBW] Re: Berthoud saddle twising on seat post... what is going on?

[newenglandbike]

I'm not sure if it is the same thing you're experiencing, but my
leather saddles always break-in a little bit lop-sided to the left.
The frames stay straight though;   just the leather gets a bit
asymmetrical.

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[RBW] Re: Framesaver Time?

[newenglandbike]

On Mar 28, 1:10 am, Rob  wrote:
 Where does one measure the 23mm? Anyone know which Park crank
> tool this is? I have a CCP-1 from days of yore.


Just anecdotal advice but using the wrong size crank-puller, even if
it's 'real close', can end up badly (stripped out threads)  :O

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[RBW] Re: Framesaver Time?

[Montclair BobbyB]

That's funny...

On Mar 24, 9:53 pm, Marty  wrote:
> Rust? Looks to me like the Butterscotch is thawing out. First sign of
> Spring!
>
> On Mar 24, 7:22 pm, Rob  wrote:
>
>
>
> > It's the first Saluki--serial number SA01.
>
> > Guess I'll be googling "framesaver"
>
> > Rob in Seattle

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[RBW] Re: which size big back rack for 57cm Bleriot?

[Erik C]

I've been using the nitto top rack for years. It works well for
loafers and as a saddlebag support for my saddle sack large. If you
are thinking about panniers I wouldn't recommend it.

On Mar 27, 3:18 pm, Eric  wrote:
> I know Riv recommends a large big back rack for frames sized 57cm (+).
> Does that still apply to the Bleriot or other 650b models?

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RE: [RBW] Berthoud saddle twising on seat post... what is going on?

[Kelly Sleeper]

René

 

I would blame the saddle.  I would also write it off as a problem with a
single saddle at this point not the Berthoud Touring Saddle as a brand
defect.  (unless it happens again of course) 

Send the pictures to the manufacture and I would bet they replace it for
you. 

 

It’s to early to blame your riding style or to start paying for professional
fits etc.

 

Just my opinion.

 

Kelly 

 

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Rene Sterental
Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2011 9:39 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Berthoud saddle twising on seat post... what is going on?

 

Hi all,

 

To my utmost dismay, today I realized that my 3 month old Berthoud Touring
saddle is all twisted on the seat post on my Atlantis. Please check how it
looked in January when I installed it: http://tinyurl.com/4mw79ms and how it
looked yesterday: http://tinyurl.com/4ea9qfe.

 

I have posted some additional photos as well where you can check it from
behind referencing the handlebar: http://tinyurl.com/4vbsdmf.

 

It all happened because I got a second Berthoud saddle for my Homer and
installed it yesterday. As I was checking to make sure that saddle position
and height on the Homer was identical to the Atlantis, I noticed that the
screwed rivet on the nose seemed to be pointing towards one side instead of
pointing upwards. Further inspection from behind showed the left side
significantly lower than the right side, and what appeared to be a twisted
frame. When installing the Berthoud on the Homer, the distance between the
rails is quite shorter than than the width of the rail "tracks" on the head
of the Nitto S-83 seat post. The same was true on the Atlantis, but it
wasn't quite so significant and this time I had to spend a significant
amount of time slowly tightening the screws on the Nitto's head so the
saddle rails would slide and get expanded to fit properly. The saddle on the
Homer is very straight, just like the saddle on the Atlantis was at first.

 

I don't know if my hips are twisted and/or one of my legs is shorter than
the other one; I'm having problems on my right hip that coincidentally or
not, started when I started riding the Brooks saddles on my Riv bikes. As I
removed the Brooks saddle from the Atlantis to replace it with the Berthoud
- the Atlantis is the bike I ride the most - I did notice that it seemed as
if that saddle was starting to break in and the left side had a larger
indentation making it a bit lower than the right side. At the time I
dismissed it having read that it appeared that the newer Brooks saddles were
not holding their shape very well and since I was swapping it for the
Berthoud didn't pay any further attention to it.

 

I then proceeded to remove the saddle from the seat post on the Atlantis to
examine it (after taking the photos) and found the following:

- The saddle seemed to straighten itself but I could twist it by hand quite
easily and replicate the twist it had when mounted.

- The screws on the rivets were a bit loose and I tightened them all - the
saddle seemed to get a bit firmer and less twist prone but I could still
twist it by hand.

 

I then mounted the saddle on a Thomson Elite seat post and carefully
adjusted its position and tightened slowly ensuring it was straight. After
being tightened on the Thomson, I could no longer twist it by hand.

 

I'm quite puzzled by all of this but am wondering if any of the following
may be true:

- My body is slowly twisting the saddle as I ride and my left seat bone is
actually lower than the right one. On the Brooks saddle it seemed to start
causing the leather to adapt to my derriere but on the Berthoud, the metal
rails can twist on their plastic ends and therefore rather than the thicker
leather adapting to my seat bones, the whole saddle has slowly twisted as
the rails have slid even though the saddle was quite tight.

- My right hip problem are the result of this twist that is probably in my
body. I never had this problem when riding regular modern saddles, but for
the past year+ all my rides were on leather saddles. I've gone back to
riding clipped in instead of flats as that was another variable that changed
at the same time. My right hip problem has been getting worse slowly over
the past year, and nothing I've been able to do so far has really worked.

 

I apologize for the very lengthy description, but I'm wondering if the
saddle is just reflecting something that is wrong with my body while it
should be staying straight to help it. When I rode my Atlantis, didn't feel
at all that the left side was lower than the right side.

 

Thinking back, about a month ago I moved the saddle further forward. To try
to maintain its tilt I didn't loosen it too much, just enough to be able to
push it forward by shoving it from behind. I wonder if it wasn't loose
enough that my shoving caused the twist by pushing one rail further than the
other one and t

[RBW] Re: Framesaver Time?

[Steve]

Use a Sutherland's manual to confirm your crank size and threads and
match them to the puller: if you are even a tad off, you will strip
the crank threads and make a real mess.



On Mar 28, 12:10 am, Rob  wrote:
> Upon more examination as I finally got the chance to clean up the bike
> tonight, I think the rust is coming from the Berthoud (composite) fender
> attachment. Seems odd they wouldn't use stainless.
>
> I am going to do that annual maintenance and Framesaver though anyway. I've
> never pulled or installed a crank or bottom bracket. About that 23mm TA
> crank puller. Where does one measure the 23mm? Anyone know which Park crank
> tool this is? I have a CCP-1 from days of yore. Guess I need a pin spanner
> too. And a bottom bracket tool of some sort.
>
> Adventure!
>
> Any advice warmly welcomed!
>
> Rob in Seattle

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Re: [RBW] Re: Berthoud saddle twising on seat post... what is going on?

[Khalid Mateen]

Rene, it seems that the rails have twisted.  At least that is the only thing
in my mind that makes sense.  I am not a saddle designer but there may be
something about your riding position on the saddle that causes it to twist
like that that.  The rails that stretch and support your bottom from
underneath, do not have much strength to resist twisting in that direction.
In fact, to resisting twisting as it shown in the picture, you have to make
a box shapes change in the support of the seat so that seat does not twist
(structural engineer).  I think it has something about how you as a
rider you sitting on the saddle.  You may be leaning on the edge of the
saddle and causing that twist to happen.

K.

On Mon, Mar 28, 2011 at 3:48 AM, newenglandbike wrote:

> I'm not sure if it is the same thing you're experiencing, but my
> leather saddles always break-in a little bit lop-sided to the left.
> The frames stay straight though;   just the leather gets a bit
> asymmetrical.
>
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[RBW] Re: Yesterday's 300k

[Kevin Brightbill]

Nice recap, Mike!

This ride was my second-ever brevet -- first being the Birkie earlier
this month.

Unfortunately, the 6:00 start time meant I left Forest Grove about
thirty minutes behind almost everyone else, as the first MAX of the
day could only bring me into Hillsboro by 6:03.

I did find some company about halfway between Timber and Tillamook,
then after a quick stop at the Tillamook shell, was able to regain
some ground at Meares.

I have family (a grandmother) who lives in Oceanside, so I'm fairly
familiar with riding and driving that area -- as the riders with me
were complaining about the Cape Meares roads, I was thinking of how
much the pavement had IMPROVED over the last several years!

The miles between the Capes and Pacific City went by mostly alone, but
I was able to run into a SIR rider several miles outside of Grand
Ronde, and we rode as a duo for the final 80ish miles. His name was
Bill, riding on one of those awesome Moulton rigid frames. We took a
mostly leisurely pace with several rest stops, although that tailwind
by Willamina did give us a temporary speed boost.

Our finish time was 16:42 (or I could call mine an unofficial 16:12).
The time was slow, but my only goal for the day was to finish in time
to catch an eastbound MAX, and that was no problem.

I was on my Trek 520 for the day, with a rather stuffed rack-top
trunk. From all the beautiful riding, the only pic I took was from the
train, at around midnight. Voila-- http://i.imgur.com/icIfe.jpg

I overpacked as usual, and the bike is definitely a true tourer, not a
lively randonneur rig. Still, plenty of fun.

Hope to catch you at another ride soon... I'll probably be out for the
night 200K!

--Kevin

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[RBW] Re: LA area bike chop recommendation?

[Rod C]

Orange20 is good.  Kyle "Trackosaurus Rex" has opened Golden Saddle
Cyclery in
Sunset Junction which is also supposed to be cool.  I also think
Topanga Creek Bicycles
is worth the extra miles for Mtb and Touring and all things steel but
not only.
http://www.topangacreekbicycles.com/index.php.  Chris and Scott will
take care of you and
get the whole Rivendell thing.  Plus there's tons of great trails up
in that area and a shop ride.

Best regards.

On Mar 27, 8:05 pm, Victor Bennett  wrote:
> Hi Folks,
> I just moved to LA from the Bay Area and am looking for a good bike
> shop to patronize. I'm happy with any LA recommendations, I'm in the
> Griffith Park/Los Feliz/Silver lake area, but I'll ttake
> recommendations anywhere.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Victor

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[RBW] Spring Cleaning: FS: riv stuff

[rex]

Im trying to get geared up for spring, therefore inm purging the
foollowing items:

1. etowah outfitters vapor barrier layer. never used. im just not a
camper. $25 CONUS

2. nitto moustache bars. just traded for them. they're not for me. i'm
under the albatross spell right now. $55 CONUS (will trade for alba
bars!)

3. 46cm nitto noodle bars. i like these, but i want to try bullmoose
bars so these go. $55 CONUS

4. 100 cm dirt drop stem. prefer to trade for 80cm dirtdrop stem, as
per my previous post. $45 CONUS

5. two(2) sets of shimano road brake levers that riv sells. $40ea or
$35ea if ordered with a handlebar. CONUS

Of course i'd consider trade offers for your rivstuff as well.
thanks for your time
joe rex kelly

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[RBW] WTT: My Dirt Drop 100 for Your Dirt Drop 80!!

[rex]

i have a nice condition nitto dirt drop 100 stem and need a dirt drop
80 stem.
thanks for your time
rex

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Re: [RBW] Berthoud saddle twising on seat post... what is going on?

[Tim McNamara]

Iif you look at the photos from behind the rear cantle plate is lopsided.  It 
certainly looks like a saddle failure.  It almost looks like the left side 
saddle rail has been forced out of its pocket in the cantle plate and that this 
is what's twisting the nose.  I'd inspect the the cantle plate for a crack 
above the saddle rail on the left side.

I had a Brook Pro (still have it) which used to have a twisted nose like this. 
Turned out that the nosepiece was improperly formed; it was too wide and would 
slip over the support stop on one side.  A minute with the bench vise fixed 
that and it's been fine for about 10 years now.  My Lepper Voyageurs tend to 
have a slight twist to the nose, too, but it is minor and un-bothersome-y.


On Mar 28, 2011, at 7:53 AM, Kelly Sleeper wrote:

> René
>  
> I would blame the saddle.  I would also write it off as a problem with a 
> single saddle at this point not the Berthoud Touring Saddle as a brand 
> defect.  (unless it happens again of course)
> Send the pictures to the manufacture and I would bet they replace it for you.
>  
> It’s to early to blame your riding style or to start paying for professional 
> fits etc.
>  
> Just my opinion.
>  
> Kelly
>  
> From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
> [mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Rene Sterental
> Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2011 9:39 PM
> To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> Subject: [RBW] Berthoud saddle twising on seat post... what is going on?
>  
> Hi all,
>  
> To my utmost dismay, today I realized that my 3 month old Berthoud Touring 
> saddle is all twisted on the seat post on my Atlantis. Please check how it 
> looked in January when I installed it: http://tinyurl.com/4mw79ms and how it 
> looked yesterday: http://tinyurl.com/4ea9qfe.
>  
> I have posted some additional photos as well where you can check it from 
> behind referencing the handlebar: http://tinyurl.com/4vbsdmf.
>  
> It all happened because I got a second Berthoud saddle for my Homer and 
> installed it yesterday. As I was checking to make sure that saddle position 
> and height on the Homer was identical to the Atlantis, I noticed that the 
> screwed rivet on the nose seemed to be pointing towards one side instead of 
> pointing upwards. Further inspection from behind showed the left side 
> significantly lower than the right side, and what appeared to be a twisted 
> frame. When installing the Berthoud on the Homer, the distance between the 
> rails is quite shorter than than the width of the rail "tracks" on the head 
> of the Nitto S-83 seat post. The same was true on the Atlantis, but it wasn't 
> quite so significant and this time I had to spend a significant amount of 
> time slowly tightening the screws on the Nitto's head so the saddle rails 
> would slide and get expanded to fit properly. The saddle on the Homer is very 
> straight, just like the saddle on the Atlantis was at first.
>  
> I don't know if my hips are twisted and/or one of my legs is shorter than the 
> other one; I'm having problems on my right hip that coincidentally or not, 
> started when I started riding the Brooks saddles on my Riv bikes. As I 
> removed the Brooks saddle from the Atlantis to replace it with the Berthoud - 
> the Atlantis is the bike I ride the most - I did notice that it seemed as if 
> that saddle was starting to break in and the left side had a larger 
> indentation making it a bit lower than the right side. At the time I 
> dismissed it having read that it appeared that the newer Brooks saddles were 
> not holding their shape very well and since I was swapping it for the 
> Berthoud didn't pay any further attention to it.
>  
> I then proceeded to remove the saddle from the seat post on the Atlantis to 
> examine it (after taking the photos) and found the following:
> - The saddle seemed to straighten itself but I could twist it by hand quite 
> easily and replicate the twist it had when mounted.
> - The screws on the rivets were a bit loose and I tightened them all - the 
> saddle seemed to get a bit firmer and less twist prone but I could still 
> twist it by hand.
>  
> I then mounted the saddle on a Thomson Elite seat post and carefully adjusted 
> its position and tightened slowly ensuring it was straight. After being 
> tightened on the Thomson, I could no longer twist it by hand.
>  
> I'm quite puzzled by all of this but am wondering if any of the following may 
> be true:
> - My body is slowly twisting the saddle as I ride and my left seat bone is 
> actually lower than the right one. On the Brooks saddle it seemed to start 
> causing the leather to adapt to my derriere but on the Berthoud, the metal 
> rails can twist on their plastic ends and therefore rather than the thicker 
> leather adapting to my seat bones, the whole saddle has slowly twisted as the 
> rails have slid even though the saddle was quite tight.
> - My right hip problem are the result of this twist that is probably in my 
> body. I neve

[RBW] Re: Bomba-Love 2011 :)

[Amit Singh]

It's a 68cm, and it's on it's way  (spazz moment)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/amisingh/5567605585/

On Mar 27, 9:58 pm, Kelly Sleeper  wrote:
> Wife and I will be in Michigan in august for Shoreline West.  Bringing my 64 
> Bomba along.
>
> Any picture of your build?
>
> Kelly
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 27, 2011, at 8:46 PM, Abcyclehank  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Amit does your have a undertube or the diagtube.
>
> > If under we will have twin frames (64cm) on opposite sides of
> > Michigan.
> > My Bombadil is also a beautiful grey with maroon and cream accents.
>
> > Right now mine is mid-build as I took the slow approach but I expect a
> > busy
> > week of cool riding starting April 1 once mine is complete.
>
> > Stay in touch.  I will try to get some pics up as I complete my build
> > as well.
>
> > Sincerely,
> > Ryan Hankinson
> > 6'7" 230 (winter weight)
>
> > On Mar 27, 9:07 pm, Amit Singh  wrote:
> >> The Bomba is coming, The Bomba is coming!
>
> >> Tomorrow is the big day.
>
> >> I hope to savor each step in the build process - I'm torn whether to
> >> rush it or build it slowly because I'm so excited to take it out.
> >> Hrm. Rivendell bicycles cause a lot of stress for being such drama-
> >> free bicycles :)
>
> >> On Mar 24, 9:32 am, Kelly Sleeper  wrote:
>
> >>> On my JB's I run 80/65 and feel very comfy.  I'm still at winter weight 
> >>> of 230.
>
> >>> Kelly
>
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
>
> >>> On Mar 24, 2011, at 3:38 AM, Earl Grey  wrote:
>
>  Rene,
>
>  thanks for that. Very cool. Something worth mentioning is that the
>  total weight should (I assume) include the bike as well, in case that
>  isn't clear from the "rider and all gear" description.
>
>  Using this calculator with 40mm tires I indeed end up with numbers
>  (34/43 psi fr/rear) about 10 psi higher than what I run off-road (for
>  more traction), and about 5 psi higher than what I use on-road (30/35
>  psi fr/rear). However, the values it gives me for 33mm tires (Jack
>  Brown Greens) are much higher than what I run: 48/61 psi versus the
>  35/40 to 40/45 psi I usually use.
>
>  Cheers,
>
>  Gernot
>
>  On Mar 24, 12:24 am, Rene Sterental  wrote:
> > Someone created and posted the following calculator a while back and I 
> > find
> > it the best and most flexible. It's also based on Jan's optimal tire
> > deflection for the optimal pressure and you can fully fine tune it.
>
> > René
>
> >  Tire Pressure Calculator.xls
> > 85KViewDownload
>
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>  text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
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[RBW] Re: Yesterday's 300k

[Mike]

Hey Kevin, glad you enjoyed the ride. 3 Capes is a great ride,
probably my favorite ORR brevet. Sounds like you enjoyed yourself
which is good. The weather was really quite surprising as I expected
it to be so much worse. I doubt I'll be at the night 200k as I'm not a
big fan of night riding. I think if I was doing PBP I'd in preparation
for PBPs night start.

If you get a chance at some point this summer consider doing the
Timothy Lake 200k just as a ride. It won't be run as a brevet but it
really is one of the best rides in the area.

http://www.orrandonneurs.org/rba/2008/Timothy/2008_Timothy_Info.htm

Will you be at the Covered Bridges 400k?

--mike

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[RBW] Re: LA area bike chop recommendation?

[Tony Lockhart]

I think you're in a good place with the Bike Kitchen and Orange 20
close to your new digs. But, if you're ever out of the area, here are
a few shops that I frequent for things like maintenance parts and
accessories.

Eagle Rock -- go to Budget Cycle Pros
North Glendale -- Montrose Bike Shop (they host cyclocross outings and
BBQs)
Pasadena -- Incycle and Performance Bike


Also, you might want to check out Topanga Creek Bicycles (in Topanga
Canyon) if you're going to be near the coast. There are also a ton of
places to ride in the area if you like climbing.

On Mar 27, 5:05 pm, Victor Bennett  wrote:
> Hi Folks,
> I just moved to LA from the Bay Area and am looking for a good bike
> shop to patronize. I'm happy with any LA recommendations, I'm in the
> Griffith Park/Los Feliz/Silver lake area, but I'll ttake
> recommendations anywhere.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Victor

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[RBW] DBC 300K Brevet Video Coming Soon!

[Eric Norris]

The video is done, and it's uploading ... but slowly. I think YouTube may have 
a problem with my choice of background music.  I'll let everyone know when it's 
ready for viewing.

--Eric N
Sent from the iPad 2

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[RBW] New CoPilot

[rperks]

I am so stoked to have our little girl out and about on the bicycle
with us now.  She is 10 months old, her helmet finally fits and she is
tall enough for the straps to work on the BoBike Mini+.  Yesterday we
went for a test spin around the block, that went great, so then it was
off to the beach.  She is so pumped sitting up there in front, claps,
laugs and makes her happy sound (parents out there probably know what
that means). Pics and quick movies here:
http://oceanaircycles.com/2011/03/27/new-copilot/
http://flic.kr/p/9tSBt2
http://flic.kr/p/9tSAWc
and vid:
http://flic.kr/p/9tSE9B

We are looking forward to being able to ride as a family again.  It
has been riding in shits for more than the last year.

Things I learned getting to this point.  Kids helmets are not easy to
get to fit well.  I ended up at the local skate shop working with the
fit kit foam the were able to provide.  The BoBike mini+ seemed like
the best option for our family as it easily can be moved from one bike
to another if you buy additional stem mounts.  This seat also seemed
to be the least invasive for the parents knees.  Handling is not bad
at all, but having a lower bottom bracket would be nice.

Riv Content, Albatross bars work perfict for this set up, and she
loves when I ring the brass bell.  Likewise I am dreaming of a 62cm
Gomez for the stable.

Rob
-
http://oceanaircycles.com/

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Re: [RBW] New CoPilot

[John Speare]

On Mon, Mar 28, 2011 at 9:34 AM, rperks  wrote:
>
> I am so stoked to have our little girl out and about on the bicycle
> with us now.  She is 10 months old, her helmet finally fits and she is
> tall enough for the straps to work on the BoBike Mini+.  Yesterday we
> went for a test spin around the block, that went great, so then it was
> off to the beach.  She is so pumped sitting up there in front, claps,
> laugs and makes her happy sound (parents out there probably know what
> that means). Pics and quick movies here:
> http://oceanaircycles.com/2011/03/27/new-copilot/
> http://flic.kr/p/9tSBt2
> http://flic.kr/p/9tSAWc
> and vid:
> http://flic.kr/p/9tSE9B
>
> We are looking forward to being able to ride as a family again.  It
> has been riding in shits for more than the last year.
>
> Things I learned getting to this point.  Kids helmets are not easy to
> get to fit well.  I ended up at the local skate shop working with the
> fit kit foam the were able to provide.  The BoBike mini+ seemed like
> the best option for our family as it easily can be moved from one bike
> to another if you buy additional stem mounts.  This seat also seemed
> to be the least invasive for the parents knees.  Handling is not bad
> at all, but having a lower bottom bracket would be nice.
>
> Riv Content, Albatross bars work perfict for this set up, and she
> loves when I ring the brass bell.  Likewise I am dreaming of a 62cm
> Gomez for the stable.
>
> Rob
> -


Great shots Rob. Thanks for sharing.

I've been dragging my daughter around on and behind bikes for all of
her young 8 years.

By FAR... by a huge margin, her favorite has been in the front where
you have your daughter... I have so many great memories of chattering
away with Maddie while we tooled around town on daily, otherwise
mundane errands. She was into signaling and ringing the bell too. Fun
times.

http://johndogfood.com/john/reduced/03-30-06%20006.jpg

Yes -- Albatross bars make this set up a breeze.

John


--
John Speare
Spokane, WA USA
http://cyclingspokane.blogspot.com/

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[RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

[rcnute]

Nice!

Campy Record 9 or 10, black.

Ryan

On Mar 28, 11:20 am, Bike Hermit 
wrote:
> 
>
> 
> How would you build it?

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[RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

[MichaelH]

Great question.  I am going to assume that this is a go-fast bike,
built for fast club rides and maybe an occasional rondenee, yes?

For a drive train you will want a nice compact double, like the better
Sugino Alpina, or the Da Vinci, unless you have you heart set on a
TA.  A 48/34 mated to a Hyperglide 12/27 cassette gives .  If you need
or want a lower gear (I do) I would strongly recommend springing for
the White VBC, which is a beautiful crank and you can set it up as a
44/30 with an 11-28 cassette for an excellent gear range and shift
pattern.  Still cheaper than TA & musa.  For BB anything economical
will do, and for this bike i would definitely not go PW.

Wheels - Open Pro rims mated to either White or Ultegra hubs,
depending on whether you prefer sealed or serviceable bearings.  I
like the White hubs - lighter and cheaper than PW.  Some people find
them noisy, and they do have a loudish hum which you can hear when
coasting below 17/18 mph.

Silver Down Tube shifters.  Faster than BE, cleaner looking than SIS
and in many situations, faster too. Least fussy shifters money can
buy.  If you have never used them you have nothing to loose but your
fear.

Aero levers mated to your hand size.  I like the fat Cane Creek/
Tecktro, but some people find the narrower 105's more to their
liking.  Brake caliper's depend on your fender choice.  If you are
putting a nice pair of Honjo Hammered (which would look great on this
bike) then the first choice should be Paul's Racer Ms, unless you are
really up for scouring the internet for old school and using a
crescent wrench to set them up.

Bars are pretty personal but very few people have ever been
disappointed with the noodle shape.  Nitto Pearl or Tech. delux stem.
If you search around you can find lighter, silver posts than Nitto,
but they are good posts.

Saddle, if you want to safe some weight, consider a Terry Ti-Fly.  A
good compromise between a Brooks or Selle Anatomica and a full blown
racing saddle.

Pedals, a light weight touring pedal - I like the Speed Play Frogs,
which work well with my Keen Commuter sandals.

I have my Ramboulliet set up as a go fast, here's what it looks like:

http://gallery.me.com/mhechmer#100094

Most important of all:  ENJOY THE PROCESS; ITS NOT ABOUT GETTING
ANYWHERE!

blessings,
michael



On Mar 28, 2:20 pm, Bike Hermit 
wrote:
> 
>
> 
> How would you build it?

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

[Sean Whelan]

+ 1 

Also...

Nice, Wide bars with a natural bend, (no ergo). 
Soma Tan Cork tape to match a Honey Brooks Titanium Saddle
Campag Vento Wheelset
Acorn Tool Roll in Black.

Light, fast, still not dangerously ridiculous.

Keep a second traditional wheelset with 28s and a comfortable number of 
reliable spokes.

Yes.

Sean

--- On Mon, 3/28/11, rcnute  wrote:

From: rcnute 
Subject: [RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?
To: "RBW Owners Bunch" 
Date: Monday, March 28, 2011, 3:12 PM

Nice!

Campy Record 9 or 10, black.

Ryan

On Mar 28, 11:20 am, Bike Hermit 
wrote:
> 
>
> 
> How would you build it?

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

[Steve Palincsar]

On Mon, 2011-03-28 at 12:14 -0700, MichaelH wrote:
> If you are
> putting a nice pair of Honjo Hammered (which would look great on this
> bike) then the first choice should be Paul's Racer Ms, unless you are
> really up for scouring the internet for old school and using a
> crescent wrench to set them up.

I don't know of any old school centerpull brakes where you needed to use
a crescent wrench to set them up.  You're thinking of Mafac cantilevers,
which do require the use of a crescent wrench to set toe-in.

Not that I'm arguing against the Paul Racer M.  Not by any means!



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RE: [RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

[Joe Bartoe]

Geez Michael,

Could you be a bit more specific?

Great answer. I agree with most of what you said, but have some problems with 
the smallish big ring you propose. I experimented with smaller big rings for a 
while and found that I did indeed miss my 50/11 gear. It's nice to keep your 
legs moving after a long climb and many times the smaller big ring would spin 
out. I usually run a 50/34 with an 11/28. I find that the only time I really 
drop down to my small ring is on extended climbs. I know this will vary by 
riding style, but thought I'd give my two cents. 

BTW, I'd set it up with the '11 Campy Veloce with compact crank set. You'd have 
to forego the brakes for the Roadeo, but maybe the Velo Orange Grand Cru brakes 
might be a good substitution.

Joe

> Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2011 12:14:59 -0700
> Subject: [RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?
> From: mhech...@gmail.com
> To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> 
> Great question.  I am going to assume that this is a go-fast bike,
> built for fast club rides and maybe an occasional rondenee, yes?
> 
> For a drive train you will want a nice compact double, like the better
> Sugino Alpina, or the Da Vinci, unless you have you heart set on a
> TA.  A 48/34 mated to a Hyperglide 12/27 cassette gives .  If you need
> or want a lower gear (I do) I would strongly recommend springing for
> the White VBC, which is a beautiful crank and you can set it up as a
> 44/30 with an 11-28 cassette for an excellent gear range and shift
> pattern.  Still cheaper than TA & musa.  For BB anything economical
> will do, and for this bike i would definitely not go PW.
> 
> Wheels - Open Pro rims mated to either White or Ultegra hubs,
> depending on whether you prefer sealed or serviceable bearings.  I
> like the White hubs - lighter and cheaper than PW.  Some people find
> them noisy, and they do have a loudish hum which you can hear when
> coasting below 17/18 mph.
> 
> Silver Down Tube shifters.  Faster than BE, cleaner looking than SIS
> and in many situations, faster too. Least fussy shifters money can
> buy.  If you have never used them you have nothing to loose but your
> fear.
> 
> Aero levers mated to your hand size.  I like the fat Cane Creek/
> Tecktro, but some people find the narrower 105's more to their
> liking.  Brake caliper's depend on your fender choice.  If you are
> putting a nice pair of Honjo Hammered (which would look great on this
> bike) then the first choice should be Paul's Racer Ms, unless you are
> really up for scouring the internet for old school and using a
> crescent wrench to set them up.
> 
> Bars are pretty personal but very few people have ever been
> disappointed with the noodle shape.  Nitto Pearl or Tech. delux stem.
> If you search around you can find lighter, silver posts than Nitto,
> but they are good posts.
> 
> Saddle, if you want to safe some weight, consider a Terry Ti-Fly.  A
> good compromise between a Brooks or Selle Anatomica and a full blown
> racing saddle.
> 
> Pedals, a light weight touring pedal - I like the Speed Play Frogs,
> which work well with my Keen Commuter sandals.
> 
> I have my Ramboulliet set up as a go fast, here's what it looks like:
> 
> http://gallery.me.com/mhechmer#100094
> 
> Most important of all:  ENJOY THE PROCESS; ITS NOT ABOUT GETTING
> ANYWHERE!
> 
> blessings,
> michael
> 
> 
> 
> On Mar 28, 2:20 pm, Bike Hermit 
> wrote:
> > 
> >
> > 
> > How would you build it?
> 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com.
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> 
  

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[RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

[Patrick in VT]

On Mar 28, 3:14 pm, MichaelH  wrote:

> Silver Down Tube shifters.  Faster than BE, cleaner looking than SIS
> and in many situations, faster too. Least fussy shifters money can
> buy.

i think down tube shifters will actually be the most fussy shifters
money can buy for the Roadeo.

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[RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

[MichaelH]

Joe, my hat's off to you.  A 53/12 which is pretty much the stock
racing gear is 119 GI; while a 50/11 is 122 GI.  I'm old and decrepit
but 108 GI (48/12; 52/13; 44/11) is all I really need to launch me off
a Vermont mountaintop.  At the other end I find a 34/27 (34 GI is OK
most days), but when I head over to my sisters house, which includes 4
miles of 12% grade up White Face Mt., I need every gear I can get and
still end up begging god for mercy.

michael

On Mar 28, 3:44 pm, Joe Bartoe  wrote:
> Geez Michael,
>
> Could you be a bit more specific?
>
> Great answer. I agree with most of what you said, but have some problems with 
> the smallish big ring you propose. I experimented with smaller big rings for 
> a while and found that I did indeed miss my 50/11 gear. It's nice to keep 
> your legs moving after a long climb and many times the smaller big ring would 
> spin out. I usually run a 50/34 with an 11/28. I find that the only time I 
> really drop down to my small ring is on extended climbs. I know this will 
> vary by riding style, but thought I'd give my two cents.
>
> BTW, I'd set it up with the '11 Campy Veloce with compact crank set. You'd 
> have to forego the brakes for the Roadeo, but maybe the Velo Orange Grand Cru 
> brakes might be a good substitution.
>
> Joe
>
>
>
> > Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2011 12:14:59 -0700
> > Subject: [RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?
> > From: mhech...@gmail.com
> > To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
>
> > Great question.  I am going to assume that this is a go-fast bike,
> > built for fast club rides and maybe an occasional rondenee, yes?
>
> > For a drive train you will want a nice compact double, like the better
> > Sugino Alpina, or the Da Vinci, unless you have you heart set on a
> > TA.  A 48/34 mated to a Hyperglide 12/27 cassette gives .  If you need
> > or want a lower gear (I do) I would strongly recommend springing for
> > the White VBC, which is a beautiful crank and you can set it up as a
> > 44/30 with an 11-28 cassette for an excellent gear range and shift
> > pattern.  Still cheaper than TA & musa.  For BB anything economical
> > will do, and for this bike i would definitely not go PW.
>
> > Wheels - Open Pro rims mated to either White or Ultegra hubs,
> > depending on whether you prefer sealed or serviceable bearings.  I
> > like the White hubs - lighter and cheaper than PW.  Some people find
> > them noisy, and they do have a loudish hum which you can hear when
> > coasting below 17/18 mph.
>
> > Silver Down Tube shifters.  Faster than BE, cleaner looking than SIS
> > and in many situations, faster too. Least fussy shifters money can
> > buy.  If you have never used them you have nothing to loose but your
> > fear.
>
> > Aero levers mated to your hand size.  I like the fat Cane Creek/
> > Tecktro, but some people find the narrower 105's more to their
> > liking.  Brake caliper's depend on your fender choice.  If you are
> > putting a nice pair of Honjo Hammered (which would look great on this
> > bike) then the first choice should be Paul's Racer Ms, unless you are
> > really up for scouring the internet for old school and using a
> > crescent wrench to set them up.
>
> > Bars are pretty personal but very few people have ever been
> > disappointed with the noodle shape.  Nitto Pearl or Tech. delux stem.
> > If you search around you can find lighter, silver posts than Nitto,
> > but they are good posts.
>
> > Saddle, if you want to safe some weight, consider a Terry Ti-Fly.  A
> > good compromise between a Brooks or Selle Anatomica and a full blown
> > racing saddle.
>
> > Pedals, a light weight touring pedal - I like the Speed Play Frogs,
> > which work well with my Keen Commuter sandals.
>
> > I have my Ramboulliet set up as a go fast, here's what it looks like:
>
> >http://gallery.me.com/mhechmer#100094
>
> > Most important of all:  ENJOY THE PROCESS; ITS NOT ABOUT GETTING
> > ANYWHERE!
>
> > blessings,
> > michael
>
> > On Mar 28, 2:20 pm, Bike Hermit 
> > wrote:
> > > 
>
> > > 
> > > How would you build it?
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
> > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > For more options, visit this group 
> > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.

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[RBW] Davis Bike Club 300K: The Video

[Eric Norris]

Finally got it uploaded:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-AUTkfPBSik&sns=em

Enjoy!

--Eric N
Sent from the iPad 2

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[RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

[Mojo]

Is it just me? Or is there something about a bare frame that just begs
the imagination?
Have fun!

On Mar 28, 12:20 pm, Bike Hermit 
wrote:
> 
>
> 
> How would you build it?

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

[PATRICK MOORE]

The R doesn't have dt shifter braze ons -- perhaps that is why they will be
fussy, That little detail apart, I think dt shifters would be the cat's
pajamas or meow or whatever you like.

On Mon, Mar 28, 2011 at 1:53 PM, Patrick in VT  wrote:

> On Mar 28, 3:14 pm, MichaelH  wrote:
>
> > Silver Down Tube shifters.  Faster than BE, cleaner looking than SIS
> > and in many situations, faster too. Least fussy shifters money can
> > buy.
>
> i think down tube shifters will actually be the most fussy shifters
> money can buy for the Roadeo.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>


-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

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Re: [RBW] Davis Bike Club 300K: The Video

[Bill Pustow]

Your best work yet, Eric.

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 28, 2011, at 4:04 PM, Eric Norris  wrote:

> Finally got it uploaded:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-AUTkfPBSik&sns=em
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> --Eric N
> Sent from the iPad 2
> 
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> 

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[RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

[William]

Nitto Pearl and Nitto Tech DLX stems won't work on the pictured
Roadeo.  He's got a threadless steerer.

On Mar 28, 12:14 pm, MichaelH  wrote:
> Great question.  I am going to assume that this is a go-fast bike,
> built for fast club rides and maybe an occasional rondenee, yes?
>
> For a drive train you will want a nice compact double, like the better
> Sugino Alpina, or the Da Vinci, unless you have you heart set on a
> TA.  A 48/34 mated to a Hyperglide 12/27 cassette gives .  If you need
> or want a lower gear (I do) I would strongly recommend springing for
> the White VBC, which is a beautiful crank and you can set it up as a
> 44/30 with an 11-28 cassette for an excellent gear range and shift
> pattern.  Still cheaper than TA & musa.  For BB anything economical
> will do, and for this bike i would definitely not go PW.
>
> Wheels - Open Pro rims mated to either White or Ultegra hubs,
> depending on whether you prefer sealed or serviceable bearings.  I
> like the White hubs - lighter and cheaper than PW.  Some people find
> them noisy, and they do have a loudish hum which you can hear when
> coasting below 17/18 mph.
>
> Silver Down Tube shifters.  Faster than BE, cleaner looking than SIS
> and in many situations, faster too. Least fussy shifters money can
> buy.  If you have never used them you have nothing to loose but your
> fear.
>
> Aero levers mated to your hand size.  I like the fat Cane Creek/
> Tecktro, but some people find the narrower 105's more to their
> liking.  Brake caliper's depend on your fender choice.  If you are
> putting a nice pair of Honjo Hammered (which would look great on this
> bike) then the first choice should be Paul's Racer Ms, unless you are
> really up for scouring the internet for old school and using a
> crescent wrench to set them up.
>
> Bars are pretty personal but very few people have ever been
> disappointed with the noodle shape.  Nitto Pearl or Tech. delux stem.
> If you search around you can find lighter, silver posts than Nitto,
> but they are good posts.
>
> Saddle, if you want to safe some weight, consider a Terry Ti-Fly.  A
> good compromise between a Brooks or Selle Anatomica and a full blown
> racing saddle.
>
> Pedals, a light weight touring pedal - I like the Speed Play Frogs,
> which work well with my Keen Commuter sandals.
>
> I have my Ramboulliet set up as a go fast, here's what it looks like:
>
> http://gallery.me.com/mhechmer#100094
>
> Most important of all:  ENJOY THE PROCESS; ITS NOT ABOUT GETTING
> ANYWHERE!
>
> blessings,
> michael
>
> On Mar 28, 2:20 pm, Bike Hermit 
> wrote:
>
> > 
>
> > 
> > How would you build it?
>
>

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[RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

[MichaelH]

No down tube shifters! Bummer. Why put together a classy classic and
leave off DT posts?  I guess Campy then, but I certainly wouldn't
spring for Record.  I will say the new Shimano RD 6700, which I now
have on my Ram is the smoothest RD I have ever used.  I admit that
even though over the years the Campy stuff I have owned has way
outperformed the Shimano stuff.

michael

On Mar 28, 4:32 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> The R doesn't have dt shifter braze ons -- perhaps that is why they will be
> fussy, That little detail apart, I think dt shifters would be the cat's
> pajamas or meow or whatever you like.
>
> On Mon, Mar 28, 2011 at 1:53 PM, Patrick in VT  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Mar 28, 3:14 pm, MichaelH  wrote:
>
> > > Silver Down Tube shifters.  Faster than BE, cleaner looking than SIS
> > > and in many situations, faster too. Least fussy shifters money can
> > > buy.
>
> > i think down tube shifters will actually be the most fussy shifters
> > money can buy for the Roadeo.
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
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>
> --
> Patrick Moore
> Albuquerque, NM
> For professional resumes, contact
> Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

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Re: [RBW] Davis Bike Club 300K: The Video

[Eric Norris]

Well, you shoulda seen the one with the alternate soundtrack: "Riders on the 
Storm" by The Doors.  I'm working on getting that one uploaded as well--YouTube 
doesn't seem to like it.

--Eric N
Sent from the iPad 2

On Mar 28, 2011, at 1:56 PM, Bill Pustow  wrote:

> Your best work yet, Eric.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Mar 28, 2011, at 4:04 PM, Eric Norris  wrote:
> 
>> Finally got it uploaded:
>> 
>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-AUTkfPBSik&sns=em
>> 
>> Enjoy!
>> 
>> --Eric N
>> Sent from the iPad 2
>> 
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> 
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[RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

[Patrick in VT]

On Mar 28, 4:32 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> The R doesn't have dt shifter braze ons -- perhaps that is why they will be
> fussy

precisely!

> That little detail apart, I think dt shifters would be the cat's
> pajamas or meow or whatever you like.

dt shifters are great.  I use them on a couple bikes.  love 'em,
honestly.  but personally, on a bike that will be used for quasi-
racing/amateur racing, i prefer brifters.  campy in particular.  being
able to shift without taking a hand of the bars is a beautiful thing,
especially in a break. or in a sprint. or when climbing.

and as much as i love my DA dt shifters, my Campy 10, when completely
dialed-in, is just the nuts.  lightning fast shifts and super quiet
drivetrain. just thinking about it makes me want to go for a rippin'
ride . .. and i would too if it wasn't still freakin' below freezing
in my 'hood.  another roller session tonight.  ugh.




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[RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

[sjauch]

Ultegra 6700 50/34 & 11-28
Shimano R650
Ritchey Classic Stem, post & bars (if the bend works for you)
Velocity A23/Ultegra wheels w/ Conti Grand Prix 4 Season 28c
What ever saddle fits your butt and your favorite pedal system
(Shimano road).

On Mar 28, 2:20 pm, Bike Hermit 
wrote:
> 
>
> 
> How would you build it?

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[RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

[stevep33]

I see a go-fast bike.

SRAM Force or Red 50/34 and 11-28 cassette.
VO Grand Cru long reach brakes
White Industries black hubs, silver spokes, black DT Swiss R465 rims
Challenge Parigi-Roubaix tires
Ritchey "Classic" handlebars, seatpost, stem
red bar tape

and a brass bell.

On Mar 28, 2:20 pm, Bike Hermit 
wrote:
> 
>
> 
> How would you build it?

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

[PATRICK MOORE]

Interesting discussion. I speak as usual in completer and utter (or at
least, considerable) ignorance since I've never used Brifters; the only
modern indexed shifting I've used was on a circa 2000 LX level mtb. The
7-sp-era XT mtb indexed thumbshifters annoyed me to no end because I could
never (on several bikes) get them dialed in to shift anywhere near as
flawlessly as the dt Sante 7-sp Uniglide system on my 1989 Falcon -- this
remains for me the benchmark for precision indexed shifting, which shows you
the limitations of my knowledge; but it was "snick-snick-snick" perfect. The
10-year-newer LX stuff, on a rented mtb used for a summer junket to Aspen,
performed beautifully if aseptically -- at 11,000 feet, in oxygen debt,
barely conscious, shove right or left lever and things happened as they were
meant to happen.

Still, the 10 sp Am Classic 11-23 and 12-27 cassettes on my Curt Custom
shifted O! so smoothly and nicely! with Mavic branded, Simplex designed
retrofriction downtubers.

But of course this is all academic since I now have reached the ultimate and
true indexing which requires flipping the wheel in the dropouts.

On Mon, Mar 28, 2011 at 3:21 PM, Patrick in VT  wrote:

> On Mar 28, 4:32 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> > The R doesn't have dt shifter braze ons -- perhaps that is why they will
> be
> > fussy
>
> precisely!
>
> > That little detail apart, I think dt shifters would be the cat's
> > pajamas or meow or whatever you like.
>
> dt shifters are great.  I use them on a couple bikes.  love 'em,
> honestly.  but personally, on a bike that will be used for quasi-
> racing/amateur racing, i prefer brifters.  campy in particular.  being
> able to shift without taking a hand of the bars is a beautiful thing,
> especially in a break. or in a sprint. or when climbing.
>
> and as much as i love my DA dt shifters, my Campy 10, when completely
> dialed-in, is just the nuts.  lightning fast shifts and super quiet
> drivetrain. just thinking about it makes me want to go for a rippin'
> ride . .. and i would too if it wasn't still freakin' below freezing
> in my 'hood.  another roller session tonight.  ugh.
>
>
>
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>
>


-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

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[RBW] Re: Bomba-Love 2011 :)

[William]

So

is it there yet?

How 'bout now?
How 'bout now?
How 'bout now?
How 'bout now?
How 'bout now?
How 'bout now?
How 'bout now?
How 'bout now?


On Mar 28, 7:15 am, Amit Singh  wrote:
> It's a 68cm, and it's on it's way  (spazz moment)
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/amisingh/5567605585/
>
> On Mar 27, 9:58 pm, Kelly Sleeper  wrote:
>
> > Wife and I will be in Michigan in august for Shoreline West.  Bringing my 
> > 64 Bomba along.
>
> > Any picture of your build?
>
> > Kelly
>
> > Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Mar 27, 2011, at 8:46 PM, Abcyclehank  wrote:
>
> > > Amit does your have a undertube or the diagtube.
>
> > > If under we will have twin frames (64cm) on opposite sides of
> > > Michigan.
> > > My Bombadil is also a beautiful grey with maroon and cream accents.
>
> > > Right now mine is mid-build as I took the slow approach but I expect a
> > > busy
> > > week of cool riding starting April 1 once mine is complete.
>
> > > Stay in touch.  I will try to get some pics up as I complete my build
> > > as well.
>
> > > Sincerely,
> > > Ryan Hankinson
> > > 6'7" 230 (winter weight)
>
> > > On Mar 27, 9:07 pm, Amit Singh  wrote:
> > >> The Bomba is coming, The Bomba is coming!
>
> > >> Tomorrow is the big day.
>
> > >> I hope to savor each step in the build process - I'm torn whether to
> > >> rush it or build it slowly because I'm so excited to take it out.
> > >> Hrm. Rivendell bicycles cause a lot of stress for being such drama-
> > >> free bicycles :)
>
> > >> On Mar 24, 9:32 am, Kelly Sleeper  wrote:
>
> > >>> On my JB's I run 80/65 and feel very comfy.  I'm still at winter weight 
> > >>> of 230.
>
> > >>> Kelly
>
> > >>> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > >>> On Mar 24, 2011, at 3:38 AM, Earl Grey  wrote:
>
> >  Rene,
>
> >  thanks for that. Very cool. Something worth mentioning is that the
> >  total weight should (I assume) include the bike as well, in case that
> >  isn't clear from the "rider and all gear" description.
>
> >  Using this calculator with 40mm tires I indeed end up with numbers
> >  (34/43 psi fr/rear) about 10 psi higher than what I run off-road (for
> >  more traction), and about 5 psi higher than what I use on-road (30/35
> >  psi fr/rear). However, the values it gives me for 33mm tires (Jack
> >  Brown Greens) are much higher than what I run: 48/61 psi versus the
> >  35/40 to 40/45 psi I usually use.
>
> >  Cheers,
>
> >  Gernot
>
> >  On Mar 24, 12:24 am, Rene Sterental  wrote:
> > > Someone created and posted the following calculator a while back and 
> > > I find
> > > it the best and most flexible. It's also based on Jan's optimal tire
> > > deflection for the optimal pressure and you can fully fine tune it.
>
> > > René
>
> > >  Tire Pressure Calculator.xls
> > > 85KViewDownload
>
> >  --
> >  You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
> >  Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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> >  For more options, visit this group 
> >  athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.-Hidequoted 
> >  text -
>
> > >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > > --
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>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

[Steve Palincsar]

On Mon, 2011-03-28 at 16:40 -0600, PATRICK MOORE wrote:
> 
> But of course this is all academic since I now have reached the
> ultimate and true indexing which requires flipping the wheel in the
> dropouts.

So, you have recovered from your fit of apostasy and are now back on the
thorny path to virtue?  



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[RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

[Aaron Thomas]

I'd second much of what Joe Bartoe said above, both in terms of 
crankset/cassette choice and Campy components. As for tires, I concur on the 
Challenge Parigi-Roubaix also mentioned above; I love them too. 

But I'd add a heretical tire option to the mix for your consideration: 
Gommitalia Calypso-K in 700x23. Yes, 23 mm. They come with traditional tan 
sidewalls, as well as black. I wouldn't be surprised if they're made in the 
same factory as the Challenge; the casing seems quite similar.

I just started riding them on my "go-fast" and they are fantastic tires! I 
find them beautifully grippy, fast-rolling, and smooth, even on fairly 
pock-marked streets. Indeed, despite their 23 mm width, I find them smoother 
than many other wider tires I've tried, including Continental Gatorskins in 
25, Michelin ProRace in 25, Panaracer Stradius in 26, and, ahem, the Ruffy 
Tuffy in 27.

I'm riding them at about 90 psi, despite the higher recommended range. Have 
a peek at them here https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/-YBt0R6NiyCNv08Mt2s08FcA4P1pGOHCJJP6hdmJBLY?feat=directlink>.
 
(For comparison's sake, here's the same bike, in an earlier state of the 
build, with the Challenge 
Parigi-Roubaix
.)

Aaron



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[RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

[Aaron Thomas]

I'd second much of what Joe Bartoe said above, both in terms of 
crankset/cassette choice and Campy components. As for tires, I concur on the 
Challenge Parigi-Roubaix also mentioned above; I love them too. 

But I'd add a heretical tire option to the mix for your consideration: 
Gommitalia Calypso-K in 700x23. Yes, 23 mm. They come with traditional tan 
sidewalls, as well as black. I wouldn't be surprised if they're made in the 
same factory as the Challenge; the casing seems quite similar.

I just started riding them on my "go-fast" and they are fantastic tires! I 
find them beautifully grippy, fast-rolling, and smooth, even on fairly 
pock-marked streets. Indeed, despite their 23 mm width, I find them smoother 
than many other wider tires I've tried, including Continental Gatorskins in 
25, Michelin ProRace in 25, Panaracer Stradius in 26, and, ahem, the Ruffy 
Tuffy in 27.

I'm riding them at about 90 psi, despite the higher recommended range. Have 
a peek at them 
here.
 
(For comparison's sake, here's the same bike, in an earlier state of the 
build, with the Challenge 
Parigi-Roubaix
.)

Aaron

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[RBW] Re: Bomba-Love 2011 :)

[Amit Singh]

UPS lied. Tomorrow, maybe.

We need some REGULATORRRS !!!

Nate Dogg and Warren G style.

On Mar 28, 6:49 pm, William  wrote:
> So
>
> is it there yet?
>
> How 'bout now?
> How 'bout now?
> How 'bout now?
> How 'bout now?
> How 'bout now?
> How 'bout now?
> How 'bout now?
> How 'bout now?
>
> On Mar 28, 7:15 am, Amit Singh  wrote:
>
>
>
> > It's a 68cm, and it's on it's way  (spazz moment)
>
> >http://www.flickr.com/photos/amisingh/5567605585/
>
> > On Mar 27, 9:58 pm, Kelly Sleeper  wrote:
>
> > > Wife and I will be in Michigan in august for Shoreline West.  Bringing my 
> > > 64 Bomba along.
>
> > > Any picture of your build?
>
> > > Kelly
>
> > > Sent from my iPhone
>
> > > On Mar 27, 2011, at 8:46 PM, Abcyclehank  wrote:
>
> > > > Amit does your have a undertube or the diagtube.
>
> > > > If under we will have twin frames (64cm) on opposite sides of
> > > > Michigan.
> > > > My Bombadil is also a beautiful grey with maroon and cream accents.
>
> > > > Right now mine is mid-build as I took the slow approach but I expect a
> > > > busy
> > > > week of cool riding starting April 1 once mine is complete.
>
> > > > Stay in touch.  I will try to get some pics up as I complete my build
> > > > as well.
>
> > > > Sincerely,
> > > > Ryan Hankinson
> > > > 6'7" 230 (winter weight)
>
> > > > On Mar 27, 9:07 pm, Amit Singh  wrote:
> > > >> The Bomba is coming, The Bomba is coming!
>
> > > >> Tomorrow is the big day.
>
> > > >> I hope to savor each step in the build process - I'm torn whether to
> > > >> rush it or build it slowly because I'm so excited to take it out.
> > > >> Hrm. Rivendell bicycles cause a lot of stress for being such drama-
> > > >> free bicycles :)
>
> > > >> On Mar 24, 9:32 am, Kelly Sleeper  wrote:
>
> > > >>> On my JB's I run 80/65 and feel very comfy.  I'm still at winter 
> > > >>> weight of 230.
>
> > > >>> Kelly
>
> > > >>> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > > >>> On Mar 24, 2011, at 3:38 AM, Earl Grey  wrote:
>
> > >  Rene,
>
> > >  thanks for that. Very cool. Something worth mentioning is that the
> > >  total weight should (I assume) include the bike as well, in case that
> > >  isn't clear from the "rider and all gear" description.
>
> > >  Using this calculator with 40mm tires I indeed end up with numbers
> > >  (34/43 psi fr/rear) about 10 psi higher than what I run off-road (for
> > >  more traction), and about 5 psi higher than what I use on-road (30/35
> > >  psi fr/rear). However, the values it gives me for 33mm tires (Jack
> > >  Brown Greens) are much higher than what I run: 48/61 psi versus the
> > >  35/40 to 40/45 psi I usually use.
>
> > >  Cheers,
>
> > >  Gernot
>
> > >  On Mar 24, 12:24 am, Rene Sterental  wrote:
> > > > Someone created and posted the following calculator a while back 
> > > > and I find
> > > > it the best and most flexible. It's also based on Jan's optimal tire
> > > > deflection for the optimal pressure and you can fully fine tune it.
>
> > > > René
>
> > > >  Tire Pressure Calculator.xls
> > > > 85KViewDownload
>
> > >  --
> > >  You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
> > >  Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> > >  To post to this group, send email to 
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[RBW] Re: Bomba-Love 2011 :)

[William]

If yo ass is a busta, Amit Singh will reg-u-late

On Mar 28, 4:17 pm, Amit Singh  wrote:
> UPS lied. Tomorrow, maybe.
>
> We need some REGULATORRRS !!!
>
> Nate Dogg and Warren G style.
>
> On Mar 28, 6:49 pm, William  wrote:
>
> > So
>
> > is it there yet?
>
> > How 'bout now?
> > How 'bout now?
> > How 'bout now?
> > How 'bout now?
> > How 'bout now?
> > How 'bout now?
> > How 'bout now?
> > How 'bout now?
>
> > On Mar 28, 7:15 am, Amit Singh  wrote:
>
> > > It's a 68cm, and it's on it's way  (spazz moment)
>
> > >http://www.flickr.com/photos/amisingh/5567605585/
>
> > > On Mar 27, 9:58 pm, Kelly Sleeper  wrote:
>
> > > > Wife and I will be in Michigan in august for Shoreline West.  Bringing 
> > > > my 64 Bomba along.
>
> > > > Any picture of your build?
>
> > > > Kelly
>
> > > > Sent from my iPhone
>
> > > > On Mar 27, 2011, at 8:46 PM, Abcyclehank  wrote:
>
> > > > > Amit does your have a undertube or the diagtube.
>
> > > > > If under we will have twin frames (64cm) on opposite sides of
> > > > > Michigan.
> > > > > My Bombadil is also a beautiful grey with maroon and cream accents.
>
> > > > > Right now mine is mid-build as I took the slow approach but I expect a
> > > > > busy
> > > > > week of cool riding starting April 1 once mine is complete.
>
> > > > > Stay in touch.  I will try to get some pics up as I complete my build
> > > > > as well.
>
> > > > > Sincerely,
> > > > > Ryan Hankinson
> > > > > 6'7" 230 (winter weight)
>
> > > > > On Mar 27, 9:07 pm, Amit Singh  wrote:
> > > > >> The Bomba is coming, The Bomba is coming!
>
> > > > >> Tomorrow is the big day.
>
> > > > >> I hope to savor each step in the build process - I'm torn whether to
> > > > >> rush it or build it slowly because I'm so excited to take it out.
> > > > >> Hrm. Rivendell bicycles cause a lot of stress for being such drama-
> > > > >> free bicycles :)
>
> > > > >> On Mar 24, 9:32 am, Kelly Sleeper  wrote:
>
> > > > >>> On my JB's I run 80/65 and feel very comfy.  I'm still at winter 
> > > > >>> weight of 230.
>
> > > > >>> Kelly
>
> > > > >>> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > > > >>> On Mar 24, 2011, at 3:38 AM, Earl Grey  wrote:
>
> > > >  Rene,
>
> > > >  thanks for that. Very cool. Something worth mentioning is that the
> > > >  total weight should (I assume) include the bike as well, in case 
> > > >  that
> > > >  isn't clear from the "rider and all gear" description.
>
> > > >  Using this calculator with 40mm tires I indeed end up with numbers
> > > >  (34/43 psi fr/rear) about 10 psi higher than what I run off-road 
> > > >  (for
> > > >  more traction), and about 5 psi higher than what I use on-road 
> > > >  (30/35
> > > >  psi fr/rear). However, the values it gives me for 33mm tires (Jack
> > > >  Brown Greens) are much higher than what I run: 48/61 psi versus the
> > > >  35/40 to 40/45 psi I usually use.
>
> > > >  Cheers,
>
> > > >  Gernot
>
> > > >  On Mar 24, 12:24 am, Rene Sterental  wrote:
> > > > > Someone created and posted the following calculator a while back 
> > > > > and I find
> > > > > it the best and most flexible. It's also based on Jan's optimal 
> > > > > tire
> > > > > deflection for the optimal pressure and you can fully fine tune 
> > > > > it.
>
> > > > > René
>
> > > > >  Tire Pressure Calculator.xls
> > > > > 85KViewDownload
>
> > > >  --
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[RBW] Re: New CoPilot

[Montclair BobbyB]

Congrats, Rob... Great pics and vid.  One of my favorite pictures of
all time is my daughter (at about 10-11 months) sitting on the back of
my bike with her styro-helmet (in Cape Cod)...  Ahh she's in
college now...

On Mar 28, 2:00 pm, John Speare  wrote:
> On Mon, Mar 28, 2011 at 9:34 AM, rperks  wrote:
>
> > I am so stoked to have our little girl out and about on the bicycle
> > with us now.  She is 10 months old, her helmet finally fits and she is
> > tall enough for the straps to work on the BoBike Mini+.  Yesterday we
> > went for a test spin around the block, that went great, so then it was
> > off to the beach.  She is so pumped sitting up there in front, claps,
> > laugs and makes her happy sound (parents out there probably know what
> > that means). Pics and quick movies here:
> >http://oceanaircycles.com/2011/03/27/new-copilot/
> >http://flic.kr/p/9tSBt2
> >http://flic.kr/p/9tSAWc
> > and vid:
> >http://flic.kr/p/9tSE9B
>
> > We are looking forward to being able to ride as a family again.  It
> > has been riding in shits for more than the last year.
>
> > Things I learned getting to this point.  Kids helmets are not easy to
> > get to fit well.  I ended up at the local skate shop working with the
> > fit kit foam the were able to provide.  The BoBike mini+ seemed like
> > the best option for our family as it easily can be moved from one bike
> > to another if you buy additional stem mounts.  This seat also seemed
> > to be the least invasive for the parents knees.  Handling is not bad
> > at all, but having a lower bottom bracket would be nice.
>
> > Riv Content, Albatross bars work perfict for this set up, and she
> > loves when I ring the brass bell.  Likewise I am dreaming of a 62cm
> > Gomez for the stable.
>
> > Rob
> > -
>
> Great shots Rob. Thanks for sharing.
>
> I've been dragging my daughter around on and behind bikes for all of
> her young 8 years.
>
> By FAR... by a huge margin, her favorite has been in the front where
> you have your daughter... I have so many great memories of chattering
> away with Maddie while we tooled around town on daily, otherwise
> mundane errands. She was into signaling and ringing the bell too. Fun
> times.
>
> http://johndogfood.com/john/reduced/03-30-06%20006.jpg
>
> Yes -- Albatross bars make this set up a breeze.
>
> John
>
> --
> John Speare
> Spokane, WA USAhttp://cyclingspokane.blogspot.com/

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[RBW] Re: Berthoud saddle twising on seat post... what is going on?

[Montclair BobbyB]

Rene:

I experienced something similar once with a Brooks B17... After only a
short period (maybe 2-3 months of mild break in), a friend noticed my
saddle sat rather askew, and I then realized it definitely was
lopsided... I sent photos to the retailer, who warranted it as
defective, but stil made a point of telling me "go easy with the
Proofide"... I gave it 2 generous treatments, but didn't think I
overdid it.  The replacement is doing just fine, BTWno problems.

I wouldn't be shy about sending photos to Berthoud... You've had
enough experience riding other leather saddles where this hasn't
occurred before, correct?

Good luck,
BB

On Mar 28, 10:06 am, Tim McNamara  wrote:
> Iif you look at the photos from behind the rear cantle plate is lopsided.  It 
> certainly looks like a saddle failure.  It almost looks like the left side 
> saddle rail has been forced out of its pocket in the cantle plate and that 
> this is what's twisting the nose.  I'd inspect the the cantle plate for a 
> crack above the saddle rail on the left side.
>
> I had a Brook Pro (still have it) which used to have a twisted nose like 
> this. Turned out that the nosepiece was improperly formed; it was too wide 
> and would slip over the support stop on one side.  A minute with the bench 
> vise fixed that and it's been fine for about 10 years now.  My Lepper 
> Voyageurs tend to have a slight twist to the nose, too, but it is minor and 
> un-bothersome-y.
>
> On Mar 28, 2011, at 7:53 AM, Kelly Sleeper wrote:
>
>
>
> > René
>
> > I would blame the saddle.  I would also write it off as a problem with a 
> > single saddle at this point not the Berthoud Touring Saddle as a brand 
> > defect.  (unless it happens again of course)
> > Send the pictures to the manufacture and I would bet they replace it for 
> > you.
>
> > It’s to early to blame your riding style or to start paying for 
> > professional fits etc.
>
> > Just my opinion.
>
> > Kelly
>
> > From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
> > [mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Rene Sterental
> > Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2011 9:39 PM
> > To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> > Subject: [RBW] Berthoud saddle twising on seat post... what is going on?
>
> > Hi all,
>
> > To my utmost dismay, today I realized that my 3 month old Berthoud Touring 
> > saddle is all twisted on the seat post on my Atlantis. Please check how it 
> > looked in January when I installed it:http://tinyurl.com/4mw79msand how it 
> > looked yesterday:http://tinyurl.com/4ea9qfe.
>
> > I have posted some additional photos as well where you can check it from 
> > behind referencing the handlebar:http://tinyurl.com/4vbsdmf.
>
> > It all happened because I got a second Berthoud saddle for my Homer and 
> > installed it yesterday. As I was checking to make sure that saddle position 
> > and height on the Homer was identical to the Atlantis, I noticed that the 
> > screwed rivet on the nose seemed to be pointing towards one side instead of 
> > pointing upwards. Further inspection from behind showed the left side 
> > significantly lower than the right side, and what appeared to be a twisted 
> > frame. When installing the Berthoud on the Homer, the distance between the 
> > rails is quite shorter than than the width of the rail "tracks" on the head 
> > of the Nitto S-83 seat post. The same was true on the Atlantis, but it 
> > wasn't quite so significant and this time I had to spend a significant 
> > amount of time slowly tightening the screws on the Nitto's head so the 
> > saddle rails would slide and get expanded to fit properly. The saddle on 
> > the Homer is very straight, just like the saddle on the Atlantis was at 
> > first.
>
> > I don't know if my hips are twisted and/or one of my legs is shorter than 
> > the other one; I'm having problems on my right hip that coincidentally or 
> > not, started when I started riding the Brooks saddles on my Riv bikes. As I 
> > removed the Brooks saddle from the Atlantis to replace it with the Berthoud 
> > - the Atlantis is the bike I ride the most - I did notice that it seemed as 
> > if that saddle was starting to break in and the left side had a larger 
> > indentation making it a bit lower than the right side. At the time I 
> > dismissed it having read that it appeared that the newer Brooks saddles 
> > were not holding their shape very well and since I was swapping it for the 
> > Berthoud didn't pay any further attention to it.
>
> > I then proceeded to remove the saddle from the seat post on the Atlantis to 
> > examine it (after taking the photos) and found the following:
> > - The saddle seemed to straighten itself but I could twist it by hand quite 
> > easily and replicate the twist it had when mounted.
> > - The screws on the rivets were a bit loose and I tightened them all - the 
> > saddle seemed to get a bit firmer and less twist prone but I could still 
> > twist it by hand.
>
> > I then mounted the saddle on a Thomson Elite seat pos

[RBW] Re: Bomba-Love 2011 :)

[Abcyclehank]

Ouch.  Hope your delivery image about the Bomba being on a vehicle
didn't get one of the little brown men truck jacked.

Again is "your" 68cm Bomba a d-tube or u-tube model?



On Mar 28, 7:17 pm, Amit Singh  wrote:
> UPS lied. Tomorrow, maybe.
>
> We need some REGULATORRRS !!!
>
> Nate Dogg and Warren G style.
>

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[RBW] FS: NOS glight 300LX Crankset w/bottom bracket

[Michael_S]

I picked this crankset up a few years ago for a project that never
got
going.
Brand new in the box from the fab '80's. 52-42-32 rings, BSA treads
for both pedal and bottom bracket.
Two big rings are alloy and the small is steel $90 shied in CONUS.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/37347002@N05/5565624379/


pls contact me off line.


~Mike



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[RBW] FS: NOS Stronglihgt Crankset w/ bottom bracket

[Michael_S]

I picked this crankset up a few years ago for a project that never
got
going.  Brand new in the box from the fab '80's. 52-42-32 rings, BSA
treads
for both pedal and bottom bracket.
Two big rings are alloy and the small is steel $75 shipped in CONUS.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/37347002@N05/5565624379/


pls contact me off line.


~Mike



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[RBW] Re: Orange Quickbeam for sale - 66cm

[Abcyclehank]

Anyone claiming new ownership of this bike.

I know several of us tall riders have made offers.

Just curious of status so I can move on to other projects if I lost
out.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Orange Quickbeam for sale - 66cm

[Kelly Sleeper]

I think I was outbid :). Good thing too wife would shoot me

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 28, 2011, at 7:50 PM, Abcyclehank  wrote:

> Anyone claiming new ownership of this bike.
> 
> I know several of us tall riders have made offers.
> 
> Just curious of status so I can move on to other projects if I lost
> out.
> 
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> 

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[RBW] Re: FS: NOS Stronglihgt Crankset w/ bottom bracket

[William]

Mike

You should tell your customers the crank arm length

Bill

On Mar 28, 5:45 pm, Michael_S  wrote:
> I picked this crankset up a few years ago for a project that never
> got
> going.  Brand new in the box from the fab '80's. 52-42-32 rings, BSA
> treads
> for both pedal and bottom bracket.
> Two big rings are alloy and the small is steel $75 shipped in CONUS.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/37347002@N05/5565624379/
>
> pls contact me off line.
>
> ~Mike

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[RBW] Re: Bomba-Love 2011 :)

[Kelly Sleeper]

 

They needed a bigger truck :)

 

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[RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

[Bill M.]

My vote for a classic lugged frame would be an all-silver group:

http://ruedatropical.com/2010/07/2011-all-silver-campagnolo-athena/

Yes it's 11 speed.  Get over it.  Gear it as you like, I'd use 50-34
and 12-29 because our local hills can get really steep.

Silver White Industries hubs, Velocity A23 rims (silver if available),
spokes to your liking.  Sapim CX-Rays are supposed to be great, but
they don't come cheap.  Challenge Paris-Roubaix or Grand Bois tires
(or Jack Browns, or Vittoria Randonneur Hypers if you need more flat
resistance).

Whatever handlebar fits you.  I really like the new generation compact
bar shapes, but they all come in 31.8 and black.   A Soba or one of
the Grand Bois bars would be classic and classy.  Nitto threadless
stem.  Handlebra tape to match your saddle of choice.  Ti B17, anyone?

Seatposts are problematic.  I would want micro-adjusting and silver
which is a rare combo any more. The Nitto Jaguar would be nice, but
not especially light.  The VO is OK, but I can't get the nose low
enough with some frame/saddle combinations.  It also depends on your
saddle and the setback you need.

Banana bag or some variant on that shape.

Gee, its fun spending other people's money!

Bill

On Mar 28, 11:20 am, Bike Hermit 
wrote:
> 
>
> 
> How would you build it?

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[RBW] Re: Berthoud saddle twising on seat post... what is going on?

[Bill M.]

Rene,

It may or may not be relevant to the twist in your Berthoud saddle,
but I also found that my old B17 had broken in asymmetrically, and I
tended to have much more pressure and discomfort on one side.  Part of
that may come from my having broken my right ischial tuberosity (sit
bone) back in 1992.  The solution came from the setup instructions for
the Selle An-Atomica saddle - for those of us with slightly
asymmetrical hips, the nose of the saddle may have to be pointed a bit
to one side instead of straight ahead.  You need to rotate the nose of
the saddle towards whichever cheek is under too much pressure.  The
magic point is when each sit bone bears equally against the saddle.
Too much rotation may cause your leg to rub against the nose, so
there's a limit to how far you can go.  It doesn't take much to make a
noticeable difference.  I now find that rotation is a basic part of
saddle fitting for all of my saddles.  Just lining it up by eye
doesn't get it into the right position.

It's disturbing that you actually seem able to twist the frame of that
saddle.  I would consider that a defect, at least worthy of a call to
the retailer to see if there is a known issue or a possible fix (or a
warranty replacement).

Bill Mennuti

On Mar 27, 7:39 pm, Rene Sterental  wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> To my utmost dismay, today I realized that my 3 month old Berthoud Touring
> saddle is all twisted on the seat post on my Atlantis. Please check how it
> looked in January when I installed it: *http://tinyurl.com/4mw79ms*and how
> it looked yesterday: *http://tinyurl.com/4ea9qfe*.
>
> I have posted some additional photos as well where you can check it from
> behind referencing the handlebar: *http://tinyurl.com/4vbsdmf*.
>
> It all happened because I got a second Berthoud saddle for my Homer and
> installed it yesterday. As I was checking to make sure that saddle position
> and height on the Homer was identical to the Atlantis, I noticed that the
> screwed rivet on the nose seemed to be pointing towards one side instead of
> pointing upwards. Further inspection from behind showed the left side
> significantly lower than the right side, and what appeared to be a twisted
> frame. When installing the Berthoud on the Homer, the distance between the
> rails is quite shorter than than the width of the rail "tracks" on the head
> of the Nitto S-83 seat post. The same was true on the Atlantis, but it
> wasn't quite so significant and this time I had to spend a significant
> amount of time slowly tightening the screws on the Nitto's head so the
> saddle rails would slide and get expanded to fit properly. The saddle on the
> Homer is very straight, just like the saddle on the Atlantis was at first.
>
> I don't know if my hips are twisted and/or one of my legs is shorter than
> the other one; I'm having problems on my right hip that coincidentally or
> not, started when I started riding the Brooks saddles on my Riv bikes. As I
> removed the Brooks saddle from the Atlantis to replace it with the Berthoud
> - the Atlantis is the bike I ride the most - I did notice that it seemed as
> if that saddle was starting to break in and the left side had a larger
> indentation making it a bit lower than the right side. At the time I
> dismissed it having read that it appeared that the newer Brooks saddles were
> not holding their shape very well and since I was swapping it for the
> Berthoud didn't pay any further attention to it.
>
> I then proceeded to remove the saddle from the seat post on the Atlantis to
> examine it (after taking the photos) and found the following:
> - The saddle seemed to straighten itself but I could twist it by hand quite
> easily and replicate the twist it had when mounted.
> - The screws on the rivets were a bit loose and I tightened them all - the
> saddle seemed to get a bit firmer and less twist prone but I could still
> twist it by hand.
>
> I then mounted the saddle on a Thomson Elite seat post and carefully
> adjusted its position and tightened slowly ensuring it was straight. After
> being tightened on the Thomson, I could no longer twist it by hand.
>
> I'm quite puzzled by all of this but am wondering if any of the following
> may be true:
> - My body is slowly twisting the saddle as I ride and my left seat bone is
> actually lower than the right one. On the Brooks saddle it seemed to start
> causing the leather to adapt to my derriere but on the Berthoud, the metal
> rails can twist on their plastic ends and therefore rather than the thicker
> leather adapting to my seat bones, the whole saddle has slowly twisted as
> the rails have slid even though the saddle was quite tight.
> - My right hip problem are the result of this twist that is probably in my
> body. I never had this problem when riding regular modern saddles, but for
> the past year+ all my rides were on leather saddles. I've gone back to
> riding clipped in instead of flats as that was another variable that changed
> at the same time. My right hi

[RBW] Re: Yesterday's 300k

[Kevin Brightbill]

I hadn't seen the Covered Bridges ride... when/where is that one? I
need to do a few frame fit tweaks, but otherwise I'm definitely
intending on doing a 400 in the next few weeks!

On Mar 28, 7:51 am, Mike  wrote:
> Hey Kevin, glad you enjoyed the ride. 3 Capes is a great ride,
> probably my favorite ORR brevet. Sounds like you enjoyed yourself
> which is good. The weather was really quite surprising as I expected
> it to be so much worse. I doubt I'll be at the night 200k as I'm not a
> big fan of night riding. I think if I was doing PBP I'd in preparation
> for PBPs night start.
>
> If you get a chance at some point this summer consider doing the
> Timothy Lake 200k just as a ride. It won't be run as a brevet but it
> really is one of the best rides in the area.
>
> http://www.orrandonneurs.org/rba/2008/Timothy/2008_Timothy_Info.htm
>
> Will you be at the Covered Bridges 400k?
>
> --mike

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[RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

[Tony Lockhart]

Ultegra hubs laced to Open Pros wrapped in Continental tires, SRAM
Apex Groupset, Nitto/Brooks/Cinelli everywhere else.call it a day.

On Mar 28, 11:20 am, Bike Hermit 
wrote:
> 
>
> 
> How would you build it?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Largest Tire on a Rom (Ram)?

[Michael Williams]

i have also had 37 paselas on, no pics, but they fit no problem-Mike

On Fri, Mar 25, 2011 at 11:21 AM, Curtis Schmitt
wrote:

> Mike—I have the Tektro R556 front and rear so maybe I'll have better luck
> with a 37 Pasela than you did with the R538. I guess the 37 Pasela is the
> safe way to go... I have found them to run a tad small in my experience so
> all should go fine with that route.
>
> Bruce—Do you have any photos you'd be able to share of the Romulus with 37s
> on it?
>
> Seth—That's a great idea. I'm going to look into the Pauls if brake
> clearance is the issue. I'm all for finding some that work and allow for
> tires larger than 37s.
>
>
> On Fri, Mar 25, 2011 at 1:54 PM, Bruce  wrote:
>
>>  I have had 37 mm Paselas on my Ram, both front and rear.
>>
>>  --
>> *From:* Seth Vidal 
>> *To:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
>> *Sent:* Fri, March 25, 2011 11:54:58 AM
>> *Subject:* Re: [RBW] Re: Largest Tire on a Rom (Ram)?
>>
>> On Fri, Mar 25, 2011 at 12:53 PM, Michael_S 
>> wrote:
>> > On my Ram, the controlling factor  is the brakes. I can fit a 37
>> > Pasela on the back but it won' fit on the front because of the Tektro
>> > R538 caliper. I'm hoping some day, when I get ready to re-paint, of
>> > adding canti studs so I can run the bigger tires.
>> > I could probably fit a bigger tire if I found some old school Campy
>> > calipers as they don't hang down as much.
>> >
>> >
>>
>> would the Paul Raid centerpulls be able to do it? You'd have to add
>> the cable hangers but you can do those w/o taking a torch to it.
>>
>> -sv
>>
>> --
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>>
>>
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>
>
>
> --
> Curtis R Schmitt
> 646.481.2625
>
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[RBW] Re: which size big back rack for 57cm Bleriot?

[Eric Wolforth]

Well I have a top rack right now but I want to try out a big back rack
to throw on some panniers. I'm just not sure what size would work.



On Mar 28, 7:09 am, Erik C  wrote:
> I've been using the nitto top rack for years. It works well for
> loafers and as a saddlebag support for my saddle sack large. If you
> are thinking about panniers I wouldn't recommend it.
>
> On Mar 27, 3:18 pm, Eric  wrote:
>
> > I know Riv recommends a large big back rack for frames sized 57cm (+).
> > Does that still apply to the Bleriot or other 650b models?

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[RBW] What Color Brooks B17 Imperial for Incoming Hunq?

[Geoff]

Hi, I'm new to the RBW Owners Bunch.  Earlier this month, I placed my
order for a 54cm Hunqapillar, my first Riv.  I'm very excited!  It's
going to be pretty much a standard Riv build-up, but with the
Bullmoose bars w/Miesha's cork grips, Paul's Thumbies, and Ultegra bar
end shifters.  I'm primarily going to be using my Hunq for fitness and
recreational road riding, alongside my wife with either her Betty Foy
or Quickbeam.

I initially ordered a Brooks standard B17, but then changed it to a
B17 Imperial in black.  No problem, right?  Well, then I discovered
the Flickriver Hunqapillar pics pool, and realized that black isn't
the only color that would work for the saddle with this gray and
kidney bean red framed bike.  I saw pics of other Hunqs that had honey
and antique brown Brooks saddles on them, and thought they looked
great.  There's something about the "warmth" of the brown saddles that
really seems to add character(imho) to the Hunq.  My wife disagrees
and feels that, on a basically gray framed bike, black is the most
suitable color.

The B17 Imperial is available in black, honey, and antique brown.  I'd
be interested to hear your opinions on this.  Thanks, in advance.  I
look forward to being a part of this RBW Owners group.

-Geoff

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[RBW] Re: FS: NOS Stronglihgt Crankset w/ bottom bracket

[Michael_S]

sorry, It's 172.5mm
Thanks' Bill

~Mike

On Mar 28, 6:20 pm, William  wrote:
> Mike
>
> You should tell your customers the crank arm length
>
> Bill
>
> On Mar 28, 5:45 pm, Michael_S  wrote:
>
>
>
> > I picked this crankset up a few years ago for a project that never
> > got
> > going.  Brand new in the box from the fab '80's. 52-42-32 rings, BSA
> > treads
> > for both pedal and bottom bracket.
> > Two big rings are alloy and the small is steel $75 shipped in CONUS.
>
> >http://www.flickr.com/photos/37347002@N05/5565624379/
>
> > pls contact me off line.
>
> > ~Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: What Color Brooks B17 Imperial for Incoming Hunq?

[cyclofiend]

To my eye, the honey color starts out very pleasing and then ages
well, gaining a burnished darkening.

But, I think there are a few decisions a person has to make
themselves ;^)

http://www.flickr.com/groups/brookssaddles/pool/with/4740535000/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclofiend/4740535000

No wrong choice, me thinks...

...and welcome to the bunch!

- J

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[RBW] Re: Berthoud saddle twising on seat post... what is going on?

[cyclofiend]

Rene -

That doesn't look right at all.  Reminds me of the way my Avocets
would fail back in mtb days, when I had to push the saddle all the way
back.  It usually took a good crash or three to bend 'em like that,
but something isn't holding together properly.

That being said, every saddle I ride has a _slight_ bit of skew to it,
but it's a minor nudge in the nose or slight difference in the
dimples.  They don't look like yours. At a glance, yours looks like a
bent or broken rail (or equivalent, as Tim M. concisely pointed out).

The one thing I notice is that the B-17 is just a hair too wide for
longer rides for me. The place I notice is in the hip, and the mental
image I have is that I've changed the angle from hip to femur. May
also be that I roll my hips slightly differently on that saddle.

But, I would get it off the bike.  It's probably worth checking your
leg length.  It may also be that it failed slowly, and you've kind of
adapted to it.

hope that helps a bit,

- Jim

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[RBW] Re: Davis Bike Club 300K: The Video

[RonaTD]

Eric -

Boy did I ever enjoy that. Way better than actually being on the first
half of that ride, but it looks like the last 100k at least was pretty
nice.

Fantastic photography, great music selection, and excellent post
production. Really a fine example of the art.

Love seeing bits of your reflection in the Edelux!

Ted Durant

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[RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

[charlie]

As a limited use "racer" all Campy with gearing set up for you and
tubular rims/ tires maybe some Tufo tires eh ? As a practical bike for
faster rides that still allows for bad weather and luggage. Nitto it
out and use a compact crank with at least a 28 to 30 tooth rear...plus
hammered fenders because they are pretty. Silver parts for sure either
way. You have to be a lightweight for this bike so I can't own one but
the thought is nice. Have fun with it !

On Mar 28, 11:20 am, Bike Hermit 
wrote:
> 
>
> 
> How would you build it?

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Re: [RBW] What Color Brooks B17 Imperial for Incoming Hunq?

[Robert F. Harrison]

I use B-17's, both standard and special. Right now I've got black, honey,
and even a green one for my folding bike. I use the honey on my silvery
Quickbeam and it doesn't look out of place at all. It's darkening with time
as well, though not as dark as the brown, at least not yet.

My suggestion is to get both, decide which looks best on the Hunq and then
buy another Riv in colors to match the unused saddle. At least that's what I
do. :-)

Aloha!

On Mon, Mar 28, 2011 at 2:03 PM, Geoff  wrote:

> Hi, I'm new to the RBW Owners Bunch.  Earlier this month, I placed my
> order for a 54cm Hunqapillar, my first Riv.  I'm very excited!  It's
> going to be pretty much a standard Riv build-up, but with the
> Bullmoose bars w/Miesha's cork grips, Paul's Thumbies, and Ultegra bar
> end shifters.  I'm primarily going to be using my Hunq for fitness and
> recreational road riding, alongside my wife with either her Betty Foy
> or Quickbeam.
>
> I initially ordered a Brooks standard B17, but then changed it to a
> B17 Imperial in black.  No problem, right?  Well, then I discovered
> the Flickriver Hunqapillar pics pool, and realized that black isn't
> the only color that would work for the saddle with this gray and
> kidney bean red framed bike.  I saw pics of other Hunqs that had honey
> and antique brown Brooks saddles on them, and thought they looked
> great.  There's something about the "warmth" of the brown saddles that
> really seems to add character(imho) to the Hunq.  My wife disagrees
> and feels that, on a basically gray framed bike, black is the most
> suitable color.
>
> The B17 Imperial is available in black, honey, and antique brown.  I'd
> be interested to hear your opinions on this.  Thanks, in advance.  I
> look forward to being a part of this RBW Owners group.
>
> -Geoff
>
> --
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> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>
>


-- 
Robert Harrison
rfharri...@gmail.com
statrix.com

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[RBW] Re: FS: Phil Rear Wheel + Many Saddles...

[S.Cutshall]

Bump...

Brooks Swift & Phil rear wheel still available!!

Danke-

-Scott

On Mar 23, 1:17 pm, "S.Cutshall"  wrote:
> Still selling that rearwheeland Brooks...
>
> come on folks snap 'em up so I can buy a Bentley and drive to the
> promise land.
>
> -Scott
>
> On Mar 17, 2:54 pm, "S.Cutshall"  wrote:
>
>
>
> > San Marco Regal is Sold.
> > Brooks Swift &Philrearwheelstill available.
>
> > Thanks-
>
> > -Scott

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[RBW] Re: Yesterday's 300k

[Lynne Fitz]

http://www.orrandonneurs.org/brevets/2011_brevets.html
Eden's Gate 400.  AKA the Covered Bridges ride.

On Mar 28, 11:34 am, Kevin Brightbill  wrote:
> I hadn't seen the Covered Bridges ride... when/where is that one? I
> need to do a few frame fit tweaks, but otherwise I'm definitely
> intending on doing a 400 in the next few weeks!
>
> On Mar 28, 7:51 am, Mike  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Hey Kevin, glad you enjoyed the ride. 3 Capes is a great ride,
> > probably my favorite ORR brevet. Sounds like you enjoyed yourself
> > which is good. The weather was really quite surprising as I expected
> > it to be so much worse. I doubt I'll be at the night 200k as I'm not a
> > big fan of night riding. I think if I was doing PBP I'd in preparation
> > for PBPs night start.
>
> > If you get a chance at some point this summer consider doing the
> > Timothy Lake 200k just as a ride. It won't be run as a brevet but it
> > really is one of the best rides in the area.
>
> >http://www.orrandonneurs.org/rba/2008/Timothy/2008_Timothy_Info.htm
>
> > Will you be at the Covered Bridges 400k?
>
> > --mike

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[RBW] Re: LA area bike chop recommendation?

[Greg]

Check out Coco's Variety on Riverside/Fletcher for an eclectic mix of
bikes/parts.  Whenever I've needed a small part, they've had it.

On Mar 27, 6:11 pm, andrew hill  wrote:
> Yeah, O20 is across from the original Bike Kitchen, too.
> You can go build your own from random steel for cheaps.
>
> Then when you get tired, go next door for awesome ice cream (Scoops).
>
> Or across the street to vegetarian mexican / barbeque (Pure Luck).  It's 
> actually not bad.  
>
> Best,
> Andrew
>
> On Mar 27, 2011, at 5:48 PM, James Valiensi wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > You can ride the subway to this one, which I think is the coolest bike shop 
> > I've ever been to in Los Angeles.
>
> >http://orange20bikes.com/
>
> > James Valiensi, PE
> > Northridge, CA
> > H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796
>
> > On Mar 27, 2011, at 5:05 PM, Victor Bennett wrote:
>
> >> Hi Folks,
> >> I just moved to LA from the Bay Area and am looking for a good bike
> >> shop to patronize. I'm happy with any LA recommendations, I'm in the
> >> Griffith Park/Los Feliz/Silver lake area, but I'll ttake
> >> recommendations anywhere.
>
> >> Thanks!
>
> >> Victor
>
> >> --
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