[RBW] Rivendell Bicycle Owners Bunch on facebook

[CycloFiend]

Hey all - 

As a bit of an offshoot of this list, I had pulled together a Facebook Group
- 
http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=127003115064

Thought it might help for folks trying to connect on rides and such.

Have no idea if anyone is particularly interested in a FB vector, but
thought I'd float it out and see where the stream takes it.

- Jim

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes

Send In Your Photos! - Here's how: http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines


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[RBW] Re: Atlantis with a suspension fork

[clayton]

On Jan 27, 12:03 pm, Timothy Whalen  wrote:
> Clayton,
>
> I've thought about doing the same thing to my Atlantis. Where are you
> finding a White Bros. shock with 1" steerer?
> Thanks,
> Tim
>
Hi Tim
Look on their webpage, they sell them last time I looked.The fork
would be too long for an Atlantis though, it has too much travel.
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[RBW] Re: Atlantis with Quadra...

[clayton]

I was kind of shocked when I got the fork and found that the
elastomers felt fresh. It had been sitting around forever. Back in the
day, in the 80's, I worked for YETI cycles and they hooked me up with
a bike with a Manitou elastomer fork. The elastomers went bad within
two years and I replaced them with Speed Springs. I'll run the
elastomers for now in my Quadra. I have found that the effects on the
handling are minimal. Back in the day, all the mountain bikes were
designed around a ridgid fork and adding a short travel aftermarket
fork was the norm.
Blue and Green clash? I need to update my wardrobe.
Boing boing to all...
Clayton

On Jan 27, 9:45 pm, Atlantean 
wrote:
> David, something tells me you are right! But you know, it doesn't look
> bad on there at all. Some say suspension forks don't go with lugged
> frames, but that's about like that nun telling us in 3rd grade that
> "Blue and green clash. They are screaming at one another!" at which
> point she wadded up some devastated little girl's art paper and threw
> it in the trash. But *ahem* I digress. Sorry. Are fresh elastomers
> available for those old forks? I thought they got hard with age.
> Anyway, as tall as a stock Atlantis fork is, I doubt that fork changed
> the handling much. Something with more than 1.5" of travel of course
> would.
>
> Coils & oil for me. But my Atlantis is still unsprung.
>
> On Jan 27, 9:45 pm, David Estes  wrote:
>
>
>
> > So is it just me, or do I see the subject of a future Bike Snob/RTMS posting
> > here?
>
> > On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 7:59 AM, Shaun Meehan wrote:
>
> > > Pretty eclectic set-up. I like it. If that Quadra is doing the job for you
> > > and you're not wishing for smoother, better damped, more adjustable
> > > (etc.) suspension travel, you might just want to consider keeping it. It
> > > looks decent and (from my experience) when you get into the higher end 
> > > forks
> > > with oil cartridges, air springs, etc., you're talking about considerably
> > > more maintenance. I had a Quadra years ago and you never have to do a 
> > > thing
> > > to it other than clean the seals and lube the stanchions once in a great
> > > while.
>
> > > Shaun Meehan

Thanks Shaun, I am going to stop looking and keep the Quadra. Now I
will hunt for Speed Springs. It is cold here, and the elastomers
really harden up when the temperature gets down into the single
digits.

Boing boing.

Clayton

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis with a suspension fork

[Timothy Whalen]

Thanks!  After Jim's words on how it could change handling etc. I am
thinking it may be just too much of a leap into the unknown.
Tim

On Wed, Jan 28, 2009 at 6:45 AM, clayton  wrote:

>
>
>
> On Jan 27, 12:03 pm, Timothy Whalen  wrote:
> > Clayton,
> >
> > I've thought about doing the same thing to my Atlantis. Where are you
> > finding a White Bros. shock with 1" steerer?
> > Thanks,
> > Tim
> >
> Hi Tim
> Look on their webpage, they sell them last time I looked.The fork
> would be too long for an Atlantis though, it has too much travel.
>  >
>

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[RBW] Re: Older Riv Road dating

[Tim McNamara]

On Jan 27, 2009, at 10:55 PM, JL wrote:

>
> There is a handy link through Waterford that details the dating for
> Waterford built bicycles.  - AFAIK Riv's, Herons, etc included.
> I posted the serial number from my '96 road standard backwards the
> other day.  I re-read it and it is D96059, or the #59 frame built in
> April 1996.
>
> Check it out. Maybe it will help with the EJ date code.
>
> http://www.waterfordbikes.com/2005/data/culture/paramount/sn/over.php

That's consistent for me- J96077 (September 1996, frame #77) and the  
frame arrived at my house in early October 1996.  I'd wonder if the  
"EJ" date code on the OP's frame is some kind of artifact and that it  
shouldn't be an E (May) or a J (September).

Although it's all just idle curiosity.  We've gotten used to the  
"model year" being important through incessant advertising for cars  
touting the latest and greatest, hoping to make you feel your old car  
is somehow obsolete and in need of replacement.  And for getting  
replacement parts, model year is important in cars, computers, etc.   
But for bikes it's no big deal thanks to standardization of threading  
and fittings.  I've run 1979 Nuovo Record derailleurs and 1999 Chorus  
derailleurs on my Ritchey and both worked fine; now it's wearing  
mid-80s Superbes.  That bike has had 7, 8 and 9 speed wheels at  
various times.  Ergo, NR and Sun Tour shifters.  Ritchey and Veloce  
BBs.  Etc.  That's what's great about bikes (or one of the things  
that is great about bikes).

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[RBW] Re: Older Riv Road dating

[periwinklekog]

On Jan 27, 6:43 pm, David Estes  wrote:
> JS=Joe Stark, no matter what the year was (I think).

Do the Match-built frames include an "M" in their number? I assume so
because it would make sense; my All-Rounder number include AR, a
number and M.
Beth
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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood IRD hubs???

[periwinklekog]

Nope. No difference, though the updated version of the IRD freewheels
seems to work just fine. They fit all english-threaded freewheel hubs.
Beth

On Jan 27, 10:36 pm, Bill Rhea  wrote:
> I was confused about that myself, but it looks like they have updated
> their website...
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[RBW] Re: Older Riv Road dating

[David Estes]

Yes, I believe so.  Who was the match builder and what happened to him?

DE

On Wed, Jan 28, 2009 at 7:36 AM,  wrote:

>
> On Jan 27, 6:43 pm, David Estes  wrote:
> > JS=Joe Stark, no matter what the year was (I think).
>
> Do the Match-built frames include an "M" in their number? I assume so
> because it would make sense; my All-Rounder number include AR, a
> number and M.
> Beth
> >
>


-- 
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

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[RBW] Re: Older Riv Road dating

[Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery]

Curt Goodrich built Rivendells for Match.

On Jan 28, 10:07 am, David Estes  wrote:
> Yes, I believe so.  Who was the match builder and what happened to him?
>
> DE
>
> On Wed, Jan 28, 2009 at 7:36 AM,  wrote:
>
> > On Jan 27, 6:43 pm, David Estes  wrote:
> > > JS=Joe Stark, no matter what the year was (I think).
>
> > Do the Match-built frames include an "M" in their number? I assume so
> > because it would make sense; my All-Rounder number include AR, a
> > number and M.
> > Beth
>
> --
> Cheers,
> David
> Redlands, CA
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[RBW] Re: QB gear changes

[usuk2007]

I have 40/32 crank and 16/18 and 22 freewheels on my QB. 90%
of the time I'm in 40/16. 32/22 is for tough hills. I rarely use the
other
combos.

I'll be credit card touring through England on it in late spring so I
might use more of the gears then,

http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/England2009
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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Bicycle Owners Bunch on facebook

[Rick]

Thanks, I will join the FB group.  As my bleriot is new to me, I am
new to FB, so at least something will be up on my profile.

Rick.

On Jan 28, 3:48 am, CycloFiend  wrote:
> Hey all -
>
> As a bit of an offshoot of this list, I had pulled together a Facebook Group
> -http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=127003115064
>
> Thought it might help for folks trying to connect on rides and such.
>
> Have no idea if anyone is particularly interested in a FB vector, but
> thought I'd float it out and see where the stream takes it.
>
> - Jim
>
> --
> Jim Edgar
> cyclofi...@earthlink.net
>
> Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
> Current Classics - Cross Bikes
> Singlespeed - Working Bikes
>
> Send In Your Photos! - Here's how:http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines
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[RBW] Re: Wiring advice

[Glenn Ammons]

On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 7:54 PM, John Ferguson  wrote:

> More difficult is wiring the taillight. Originally I had considered a
> battery-operated taillight, but I found a great Luxor hammered-
> aluminum headlight that, with a little cleaning and a few minor
> modifications, works great. Perhaps down the seat-tube, through a
> small hole in the fender, and then some sort of glue inside the
> fender? This still leaves the problem of how to attach the wiring to
> the downtube.

That's similar to how I routed the taillight wire on my Velo Orange;
the wire (Schmidt coaxial) runs from the fender-mounted headlight into
the front fender's rolled edge, out of the front fender and through a
hole into the downtube, out of the downtube and around the bottom
bracket into the rear fender's rolled edge, and finally out of the
fender to the fender-mounted taillight.  To make it easy to
disassemble the bike for travel, I put power connectors in the line
between front fender and downtube and between downtube and rear
fender.

This was all incredibly labor-intensive but I felt like lavishing
loving care on this bike.  The practical way, with no disadvantages
other than maybe aesthetics, would have been to run a continuous wire
from the headlight along a fender stay to a fork dropout, up a fork
leg to the downtube, down the outside of the downtube to the bottom
bracket, along a chainstay to the rear dropout, and finally along a
fender stay to the taillight, with the wire held in place by zip
ties or tape.

--glenn
West Chester, PA, USA

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[RBW] Re: Wiring advice

[mark]

Sorry, should have said "down tube" instead of "seat tube" in my
wiring description.
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[RBW] Re: QB gear changes

[reynoldslugs]

My gearing set up may set a record for biggest wienie.  What can I
say, I'm 100kg and ride some steep hills.

"stock" chainrings - 32/40.  Flip flop rear hub = 17 fixed gear cog,
and on the other side (let me introduce you to my leetle fren), a
White Industries 23 tooth single cog freewheel.

The combo is very, very handy for Sonoma County rides. I typically due
just one gear change, from the high fixed gear to the LOW freewheel.
40/17 fixed down Hiway 12, then into the 32/23 to ride CX in Annadell
park, or climb Los Alamos Rd.  The QB is a very competent, fun CX
bike.  I ride steep, rocky singletrack comfortably - lots of other
riders out there on dual suspension on these trails.



On Jan 28, 8:27 am, usuk2007  wrote:
> I have 40/32 crank and 16/18 and 22 freewheels on my QB. 90%
> of the time I'm in 40/16. 32/22 is for tough hills. I rarely use the
> other
> combos.
>
> I'll be credit card touring through England on it in late spring so I
> might use more of the gears then,
>
> http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/England2009

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[RBW] Re: QB gear changes

[Bill Connell]

> On Jan 27, 3:30 pm, "colin p. cummings" 
> wrote:
>> As a survey of sorts, how many QB owners out there do much gear
>> changing on a regular or semi-regular basis?  I just bought a used QB
>> frame and am wondering if a 4-gear configuration would be worth it.  I
>> live in a pretty flat place (TX panhandle) and can only imagine
>> changing gears to climb out of a canyon...


I'm not a QB owner, but i had a bike set up with a 3-cog/SS setup ala
Lon Haldeman for over a year, so i thought about the gear changing
thing quite a bit. The bike was set up with a 42t ring, and 16-18-20t
cogs in the rear. It was a Surly Crosscheck, and the dropouts handled
that spread with no problem, even the brake adjustment was fine.

Anyway, i probably changed gears less than a half-dozen times over the
year: once from the 20 to the 16 in the spring, then to the 18 for
most of the summer when i wanted to spin more. A couple of times for
trailer hauling, then maybe once again for cyclocross season. I never
changed mid-ride, just changed when the intended conditions or usage
seemed to warrant it. That bike now has a standard flip/flop wheel;
both sides same cog side, just the choice to coast or not now.

-- 
Bill Connell
St. Paul, MN

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell vs. Bridgestone sizing

[Brewster Fong]

On Jan 27, 7:29 pm, "Bill M."  wrote:
> SOMA sells silver, 26 mm clamp stems in 17 and 40 degree slopes,
> though relatively few sizes are in stock at the moment.  

My LBS carries that stem. Its not really silver. More like a silver-
white paint and its definitely not polished like the Nitto. Here's a
small pic:

http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-3773699254952_2032_8289898

Not a very pretty stem.

>The 17 degree  VO stems aren't due for a month or two.
>
Thanks! Good to know. Chris K at VO usually has good stuff.
>

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[RBW] Re: Wiring advice

[John Ferguson]

I'm trying very hard to picture how you've done this--do you have any
pictures?

John

On Jan 28, 12:51 pm, Glenn Ammons  wrote:
> On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 7:54 PM, John Ferguson  wrote:
> > More difficult is wiring the taillight. Originally I had considered a
> > battery-operated taillight, but I found a great Luxor hammered-
> > aluminum headlight that, with a little cleaning and a few minor
> > modifications, works great. Perhaps down the seat-tube, through a
> > small hole in the fender, and then some sort of glue inside the
> > fender? This still leaves the problem of how to attach the wiring to
> > the downtube.
>
> That's similar to how I routed the taillight wire on my Velo Orange;
> the wire (Schmidt coaxial) runs from the fender-mounted headlight into
> the front fender's rolled edge, out of the front fender and through a
> hole into the downtube, out of the downtube and around the bottom
> bracket into the rear fender's rolled edge, and finally out of the
> fender to the fender-mounted taillight.  To make it easy to
> disassemble the bike for travel, I put power connectors in the line
> between front fender and downtube and between downtube and rear
> fender.
>
> This was all incredibly labor-intensive but I felt like lavishing
> loving care on this bike.  The practical way, with no disadvantages
> other than maybe aesthetics, would have been to run a continuous wire
> from the headlight along a fender stay to a fork dropout, up a fork
> leg to the downtube, down the outside of the downtube to the bottom
> bracket, along a chainstay to the rear dropout, and finally along a
> fender stay to the taillight, with the wire held in place by zip
> ties or tape.
>
> --glenn
> West Chester, PA, USA
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[RBW] Re: Wiring advice

[Doug Van Cleve]

Glen,

Did you drill the frame or did it come ready to run internal wiring?  I ask
because I have a similar frame that is going to get a fender mounted
taillight, but it isn't drilled or anything.  I'm not sure I have the
stomach for drilling holes in a new frame, but I'm curious...

Thanks, Doug


On Wed, Jan 28, 2009 at 10:51 AM, Glenn Ammons wrote:

>
> On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 7:54 PM, John Ferguson  wrote:
>
> > More difficult is wiring the taillight. Originally I had considered a
> > battery-operated taillight, but I found a great Luxor hammered-
> > aluminum headlight that, with a little cleaning and a few minor
> > modifications, works great. Perhaps down the seat-tube, through a
> > small hole in the fender, and then some sort of glue inside the
> > fender? This still leaves the problem of how to attach the wiring to
> > the downtube.
>
> That's similar to how I routed the taillight wire on my Velo Orange;
> the wire (Schmidt coaxial) runs from the fender-mounted headlight into
> the front fender's rolled edge, out of the front fender and through a
> hole into the downtube, out of the downtube and around the bottom
> bracket into the rear fender's rolled edge, and finally out of the
> fender to the fender-mounted taillight.  To make it easy to
> disassemble the bike for travel, I put power connectors in the line
> between front fender and downtube and between downtube and rear
> fender.
>
> This was all incredibly labor-intensive but I felt like lavishing
> loving care on this bike.  The practical way, with no disadvantages
> other than maybe aesthetics, would have been to run a continuous wire
> from the headlight along a fender stay to a fork dropout, up a fork
> leg to the downtube, down the outside of the downtube to the bottom
> bracket, along a chainstay to the rear dropout, and finally along a
> fender stay to the taillight, with the wire held in place by zip
> ties or tape.
>
> --glenn
> West Chester, PA, USA

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[RBW] Re: Wiring advice

[Invisible]

This is why I use two battery-powered taillights. The chances of both
of them dying on the same ride are minimal. Two different flashing
patterns might also get noticed better than one.

-Wesley

On Jan 27, 6:24 pm, mark  wrote:
> I thought the day of the wired taillight was over until I found myself
> a few miles from home on a busy highway with half dead batteries in my
> taillight. Not a nice feeling at all. My winter commute bike has a
> battery powered taillight because I take the lights, fenders and
> studded tires off for summer use, but the tourer has a wired taillight
> running off the SON and I like it a lot better. I do use a Super Flash
> in blink mode on both bikes to augment the non-flashing taillight, but
> it's reassuring to have one light that always works when the bike is
> moving.
>
> The winter bike and the tourer have the headlight at the fork crown
> and the wire wrapped around the fork leg from the hub to the light,
> with zip ties at the ends to keep everything tidy. For the taillight
> on the tourer, the wire runs under the seat tube with the computer
> speed and cadence wires, under the BB shell, wrapped around the chain
> stay a few times on its way to the rear dropout, up the leg of the
> rear rack and to the light. If you're going to carry panniers it might
> not hurt to wrap the wires in electrical tape where it follows the leg
> of the rack. I use zip ties at crucial points to keep the wires tidy.
>
> If you locate the wires carefully under the seat tube and BB shell
> they really aren't that obtrusive, and if you don't like the look of
> zip ties I suppose you could glue the wires in place or use clear
> plastic packing tape. If you really wanted to be fastidious I suppose
> you could route the taillight wire under the chainstay protector, but
> I'm just not that fussy.
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[RBW] Photos of wiring

[Paul Cooley]

I just took and posted a few photos of my wiring.  The wiring photos  
are at the end of the photo set.  Sure, there are probably neater ways  
to route the wire, but this way works fine for me and will give you an  
idea of what this routing looks like.

By the way, I like having the wired taillight.  I'm not that good at  
worrying about batteries, and the long life of batteries with LED's  
makes it even worse.  Since I wouldn't have to recharge them every  
day, I would pretty much forget about them until they ran out some  
dark night.

Paul B. Cooley
Santa Fe, NM
http://carfreefamily.blogspot.com


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[RBW] Re: Wiring advice

[Eric]

Two words: Spare batteries

I replace batteries with freshly charged ones when my taillights start  
looking dim or flashing slowly.   On long brevets or similar  
situations, I carry a set of spares with me.

--Eric Norris
Sent from my iPhone 3G

On Jan 28, 2009, at 12:34 PM, Invisible  wrote:

>
> This is why I use two battery-powered taillights. The chances of both
> of them dying on the same ride are minimal. Two different flashing
> patterns might also get noticed better than one.
>
> -Wesley
>
> On Jan 27, 6:24 pm, mark  wrote:
>> I thought the day of the wired taillight was over until I found  
>> myself
>> a few miles from home on a busy highway with half dead batteries in  
>> my
>> taillight. Not a nice feeling at all. My winter commute bike has a
>> battery powered taillight because I take the lights, fenders and
>> studded tires off for summer use, but the tourer has a wired  
>> taillight
>> running off the SON and I like it a lot better. I do use a Super  
>> Flash
>> in blink mode on both bikes to augment the non-flashing taillight,  
>> but
>> it's reassuring to have one light that always works when the bike is
>> moving.
>>
>> The winter bike and the tourer have the headlight at the fork crown
>> and the wire wrapped around the fork leg from the hub to the light,
>> with zip ties at the ends to keep everything tidy. For the taillight
>> on the tourer, the wire runs under the seat tube with the computer
>> speed and cadence wires, under the BB shell, wrapped around the chain
>> stay a few times on its way to the rear dropout, up the leg of the
>> rear rack and to the light. If you're going to carry panniers it  
>> might
>> not hurt to wrap the wires in electrical tape where it follows the  
>> leg
>> of the rack. I use zip ties at crucial points to keep the wires tidy.
>>
>> If you locate the wires carefully under the seat tube and BB shell
>> they really aren't that obtrusive, and if you don't like the look of
>> zip ties I suppose you could glue the wires in place or use clear
>> plastic packing tape. If you really wanted to be fastidious I suppose
>> you could route the taillight wire under the chainstay protector, but
>> I'm just not that fussy.
> >

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[RBW] Parts FS and a question for cyclofiend (or someone who knows)

[colin p. cummings]

First what's for sale:

46cm Nitto Noodles.$45 shipped
Nitto big back rack (57cm + bikes).$110 shipped
Carradice grocery panniers$215 pair, $115 apiece

And the question: what kind of bars are on Phillip Williamson's QB on
cyclofiend.com?  It says WTB drop bars, but I don't know if WTB is an
internet acronym or a brand.

Cheers,

Colin Cummings
Amarillo, TX
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[RBW] Ooops, the link for photos of my wiring

[Paul Cooley]

I forgot to paste in the link:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/44745...@n00/sets/72157611786912729/

Paul B. Cooley
Santa Fe, NM
http://carfreefamily.blogspot.com


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[RBW] Re: Parts FS and a question for cyclofiend (or someone who knows)

[Kenneth Stagg]

On Wed, Jan 28, 2009 at 4:54 PM, colin p. cummings
 wrote:
>
> First what's for sale:
>
> 46cm Nitto Noodles.$45 shipped
> Nitto big back rack (57cm + bikes).$110 shipped
> Carradice grocery panniers$215 pair, $115 apiece
>
> And the question: what kind of bars are on Phillip Williamson's QB on
> cyclofiend.com?  It says WTB drop bars, but I don't know if WTB is an
> internet acronym or a brand.

I'm pretty sure in this case it's the brand.
http://www.wtb.com/usa/

-Ken

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[RBW] Re: Parts FS and a question for cyclofiend (or someone who knows)

[Seth Vidal]

On Wed, Jan 28, 2009 at 5:54 PM, colin p. cummings
 wrote:
>
> First what's for sale:
>
> 46cm Nitto Noodles.$45 shipped
> Nitto big back rack (57cm + bikes).$110 shipped
> Carradice grocery panniers$215 pair, $115 apiece


Are all of these new or used?
thanks
-sv

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[RBW] Re: Parts FS and a question for cyclofiend (or someone who knows)

[CycloFiend]

on 1/28/09 2:54 PM, colin p. cummings at colinthehip...@gmail.com wrote:

> 
> First what's for sale:
> 
> 46cm Nitto Noodles.$45 shipped
> Nitto big back rack (57cm + bikes).$110 shipped
> Carradice grocery panniers$215 pair, $115 apiece
> 
> And the question: what kind of bars are on Phillip Williamson's QB on
> cyclofiend.com?  It says WTB drop bars, but I don't know if WTB is an
> internet acronym or a brand.

WTB is Wilderness Trail Bikes, a component company which was originally
formed by Charlie Cunningham, Steve Potts and Mark Slate.

Just noticed they have a wikipedia entry -
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wilderness_Trail_Bikes

and can be found on the web at wtb.com

- J "And, they are having a MCBC "Meet and Greet" bicycle advocacy
open-house tomorrow night in their Mill Valley office...which conflicts for
me."

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes

Send In Your Photos! - Here's how: http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines

"There were messengers who named their bikes, but Chevette never would have
done that, and somehow because she did think about it like it was something
alive."

William Gibson - "Virtual Light"



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[RBW] Re: Parts FS and a question for cyclofiend (or someone who knows)

[Ray Shine]

It's a brand.

Ray

--- On Wed, 1/28/09, colin p. cummings  wrote:
From: colin p. cummings 
Subject: [RBW] Parts FS and a question for cyclofiend (or someone who knows)
To: "RBW Owners Bunch" 
Date: Wednesday, January 28, 2009, 2:54 PM

First what's for sale:

46cm Nitto Noodles.$45 shipped
Nitto big back rack (57cm + bikes).$110 shipped
Carradice grocery panniers$215 pair, $115 apiece

And the question: what kind of bars are on Phillip Williamson's QB on
cyclofiend.com?  It says WTB drop bars, but I don't know if WTB is an
internet acronym or a brand.

Cheers,

Colin Cummings
Amarillo, TX


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[RBW] Re: Parts FS and a question for cyclofiend (or someone who knows)

[rcnute]

Colin, I'll take the Noodles.

Ryan
rcn...@hotmail.com

On Jan 28, 2:54 pm, "colin p. cummings" 
wrote:
> First what's for sale:
>
> 46cm Nitto Noodles.$45 shipped
> Nitto big back rack (57cm + bikes).$110 shipped
> Carradice grocery panniers$215 pair, $115 apiece
>
> And the question: what kind of bars are on Phillip Williamson's QB on
> cyclofiend.com?  It says WTB drop bars, but I don't know if WTB is an
> internet acronym or a brand.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Colin Cummings
> Amarillo, TX
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[RBW] Re: Older Riv Road dating

[David Estes]

OK, thanks.  Thought it was someone in the Riven-verse.  Things seem to have
turned out ok for him!

On Wed, Jan 28, 2009 at 8:22 AM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery <
thill@gmail.com> wrote:

>
> Curt Goodrich built Rivendells for Match.
>
> On Jan 28, 10:07 am, David Estes  wrote:
> > Yes, I believe so.  Who was the match builder and what happened to him?
> >
> > DE
> >
> > On Wed, Jan 28, 2009 at 7:36 AM,  wrote:
> >
> > > On Jan 27, 6:43 pm, David Estes  wrote:
> > > > JS=Joe Stark, no matter what the year was (I think).
> >
> > > Do the Match-built frames include an "M" in their number? I assume so
> > > because it would make sense; my All-Rounder number include AR, a
> > > number and M.
> > > Beth
> >
> > --
> > Cheers,
> > David
> > Redlands, CA
> >
>


-- 
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

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[RBW] Re: Parts FS and a question for cyclofiend (or someone who knows)

[colin p. cummings]

Noodles and rack are sold...

Cheers,

Colin Cummings
Amarillo, TX

On Jan 28, 5:51 pm, rcnute  wrote:
> Colin, I'll take the Noodles.
>
> Ryan
> rcn...@hotmail.com
>
> On Jan 28, 2:54 pm, "colin p. cummings" 
> wrote:
>
> > First what's for sale:
>
> > 46cm Nitto Noodles.$45 shipped
> > Nitto big back rack (57cm + bikes).$110 shipped
> > Carradice grocery panniers$215 pair, $115 apiece
>
> > And the question: what kind of bars are on Phillip Williamson's QB on
> > cyclofiend.com?  It says WTB drop bars, but I don't know if WTB is an
> > internet acronym or a brand.
>
> > Cheers,
>
> > Colin Cummings
> > Amarillo, TX
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[RBW] Re: Parts FS and a question for cyclofiend (or someone who knows)

[Jeremy Till]

Warning: Dirt-Drop geek out to follow.

As others have noted those are the Wilderness Trail Bikes Dirt Drop
bars, widely regarded as the archetypal form of the flared-out drop
bars popular on  mountain bikes during the 1980's and early 1990's.
Nitto also made such bars, although theirs didn't have as much flare.
The Nitto bars came stock on some of Grant's earlier and more
idiosyncratic mountain bike designs (namely the 1987 MB-1) and up
until a few years ago were available through the Riv site.

Unfortunately, the original WTB and Nitto bars are no longer
available.  The closest bars to them currently are the On-One (UK *)
Midge Bars and the Origin 8 "Gary" Bars.   Both of these sport smooth,
classic curves and large amounts of flare that make them optimal for
riding in the drops as the primary hand position.  These type of bars,
lead by the Midge, have seen a resurgence in recent years among
mountain bikers; they are naturally suited to "29'er" type bikes with
cockpits that are generally taller than 26" wheeled bikes (their
suitability for high cockpits makes them also good for "riv" fitted
bikes).  WTB, seeing the popularity of the Midge and Gary, have
brought out their own version of a flared drop bar, but it sports a
deep drop, not much flare (when compared to the Midge) and a segmented
"ergonomic" drop section.  It has not gotten the glowing reviews that
the midge has.  So, if you want a bar like the one on Philip W's QB,
check out the Midge and Gary.

*Unfortunately, On-One doesn't currently have a U.S. distributor for
their bars.  I've heard you can order directly from On-One in Britain
and pay a few extra $ in shpping.

Sorry for the long geek-out...midge bars are probably my favorite bars
for all-around riding, and I use them on the bike i do most of my long
rides with.


On Jan 28, 2:54 pm, "colin p. cummings" 
wrote:
> First what's for sale:
>
> 46cm Nitto Noodles.$45 shipped
> Nitto big back rack (57cm + bikes).$110 shipped
> Carradice grocery panniers$215 pair, $115 apiece
>
> And the question: what kind of bars are on Phillip Williamson's QB on
> cyclofiend.com?  It says WTB drop bars, but I don't know if WTB is an
> internet acronym or a brand.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Colin Cummings
> Amarillo, TX
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[RBW] Re: Wiring advice

[Glenn Ammons]

On Wed, Jan 28, 2009 at 2:16 PM, Doug Van Cleve  wrote:
> Glen,
>
> Did you drill the frame or did it come ready to run internal wiring?  I ask
> because I have a similar frame that is going to get a fender mounted
> taillight, but it isn't drilled or anything.  I'm not sure I have the
> stomach for drilling holes in a new frame, but I'm curious...

Johnny Coast, who built the frame, drilled it.  I wouldn't have had
the guts to drill it myself, either.

--glenn
West Chester, PA, USA

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[RBW] Re: Parts FS and a question for cyclofiend (or someone who knows)

[David Estes]

FYI, you are not able to run/rub/rock bar end sifters on Gary bars
w/out consumer
based modification 
...



> As others have noted those are the Wilderness Trail Bikes Dirt Drop
> bars, widely regarded as the archetypal form of the flared-out drop
> bars popular on  mountain bikes during the 1980's and early 1990's.
> Nitto also made such bars, although theirs didn't have as much flare.
> The Nitto bars came stock on some of Grant's earlier and more
> idiosyncratic mountain bike designs (namely the 1987 MB-1) and up
> until a few years ago were available through the Riv site.
>
> Unfortunately, the original WTB and Nitto bars are no longer
> available.  The closest bars to them currently are the On-One (UK *)
> Midge Bars and the Origin 8 "Gary" Bars.   Both of these sport smooth,
> classic curves and large amounts of flare that make them optimal for
> riding in the drops as the primary hand position.  These type of bars,
> lead by the Midge, have seen a resurgence in recent years among
> mountain bikers; they are naturally suited to "29'er" type bikes with
> cockpits that are generally taller than 26" wheeled bikes (their
> suitability for high cockpits makes them also good for "riv" fitted
> bikes).  WTB, seeing the popularity of the Midge and Gary, have
> brought out their own version of a flared drop bar, but it sports a
> deep drop, not much flare (when compared to the Midge) and a segmented
> "ergonomic" drop section.  It has not gotten the glowing reviews that
> the midge has.  So, if you want a bar like the one on Philip W's QB,
> check out the Midge and Gary.
>
> *Unfortunately, On-One doesn't currently have a U.S. distributor for
> their bars.  I've heard you can order directly from On-One in Britain
> and pay a few extra $ in shpping.
>
> Sorry for the long geek-out...midge bars are probably my favorite bars
> for all-around riding, and I use them on the bike i do most of my long
> rides with.
>
>
> On Jan 28, 2:54 pm, "colin p. cummings" 
> wrote:
> > First what's for sale:
> >
> > 46cm Nitto Noodles.$45 shipped
> > Nitto big back rack (57cm + bikes).$110 shipped
> > Carradice grocery panniers$215 pair, $115 apiece
> >
> > And the question: what kind of bars are on Phillip Williamson's QB on
> > cyclofiend.com?  It says WTB drop bars, but I don't know if WTB is an
> > internet acronym or a brand.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Colin Cummings
> > Amarillo, TX
> >
>


-- 
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

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[RBW] Re: Wiring advice

[Glenn Ammons]

On Wed, Jan 28, 2009 at 1:58 PM, John Ferguson  wrote:
>
> I'm trying very hard to picture how you've done this--do you have any
> pictures?

They don't show everything I described, but there are some photos
here:

http://picasaweb.google.com/glenn.ammons/VeloOrangeCyclotouriste#

These photos were taken before Johnny Coast (the framebuilder) drilled
the holes for running the wire inside the downtube.  The bike also has
an eDelux now (great light!) and I replaced the ugly and hard-to-work
red connectors with coaxial power connectors (EIAJ-2 connectors, if I
recall correctly):

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coaxial_DC_Power_Connectors#EIAJ_standards

I spent a lot of time on the wiring, most of which was down to extreme
fastidiousness.  I don't regret it but, if there's a next bike, it'll
get the single-wire, zip-tie treatment.

--glenn
West Chester, PA, USA

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[RBW] Re: Older Riv Road dating

[Tim McNamara]

This has been only part of the story.  When Rivendell opened up, they  
had an agreement with Waterford to build their frames.  Initially the  
frames were not customs, they were made in  a range of sizes.   
Rivendell had a guy named Gary Boulanger who worked at Waterford  
doing frame prep, packing, etc. to handle the Riv frames.  The custom  
thing slowly crept in, Grant's ideas kept developing, sales  
increased, etc. and eventually Rivendell and Waterford parted ways  
amicably.

(IIRC the Heron line was developed before that happened and were  
still built by Waterford for a while after the Riv frames were no  
longer made there.  Heron was a three-way joint venture between Riv,  
Waterford and another guy whose name I have forgotten.  There were  
too many people for this to be profitable, though, and Riv pulled  
out.  Eventually the Heron product line was sold to Todd at Tullio's  
Cyclery in Illinois; Todd got out of the bike business a year or two  
back.)

Rivendell hired Joe Starck to build frames; he had been a builder for  
Masi and other places (maybe Waterford, too).  I don't remember if  
painting was subbed out to Joe Bell right away, since Joe Starck  
didn't paint AFAIK.  As the waiting list expanded, part of the  
Rivendell line (All-Rounders and maybe some other frames) were subbed  
out to Match Cycles, which was owned by Tim Match.  Curt Goodrich  
worked for Match and built quite a few of the frames made there.   
When Match went away, Curt moved back to Minneapolis came on board  
with Rivendell as their second frame builder.  For a period of time,  
both Curt and Joe built Rivendells.  Joe stopped, Curt went on.  The  
waiting list grew and Curt also developed his own frame business.   
Oddly enough I can't remember who's been building customs since Curt  
stopped, I guess I haven't been paying enough attention.

Grant has periodically looked for ways to produce lower-cost frames  
than the full customs.  Those have their own histories.  In terms of  
geometry, I think that few people need a custom frame.  Human  
proportions tend to vary pretty consistently, and most of the  
variations can be easily accommodated with the various adjustments  
that are possible.  It's the details- braze-ons, brake reach, tire  
clearance, etc.- that really determine the utility of a frame for  
specific needs.

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[RBW] shifter opinions

[chris love]

Hi all. I'm deciding which shifters to put on my new ride (silver bar
ends - friction only i think - or shimano) and curious who swears by
which. Any opinions?

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[RBW] Re: Older Riv Road dating

[David Estes]

Nice recap!  A lovely Winter's Read :-)

There were also several "anonymous" builders that came in to play either
before or after the match (small-case) bikes.  Richard Sachs built a couple
for sure (friend has a "RS" frame!).

Mark Nobilette starting building frames to help Curt manage the load.  He
built up a lot of the Protovelos.  Now Mark is the only custom frame builder
that I'm aware of.  He also builds under his own
name,
and either co-owns or works for the current owners of the Rene
Herseline.

I wish them all the best!

On Wed, Jan 28, 2009 at 7:54 PM, Tim McNamara  wrote:

>
> This has been only part of the story.  When Rivendell opened up, they
> had an agreement with Waterford to build their frames.  Initially the
> frames were not customs, they were made in  a range of sizes.
> Rivendell had a guy named Gary Boulanger who worked at Waterford
> doing frame prep, packing, etc. to handle the Riv frames.  The custom
> thing slowly crept in, Grant's ideas kept developing, sales
> increased, etc. and eventually Rivendell and Waterford parted ways
> amicably.
>
> (IIRC the Heron line was developed before that happened and were
> still built by Waterford for a while after the Riv frames were no
> longer made there.  Heron was a three-way joint venture between Riv,
> Waterford and another guy whose name I have forgotten.  There were
> too many people for this to be profitable, though, and Riv pulled
> out.  Eventually the Heron product line was sold to Todd at Tullio's
> Cyclery in Illinois; Todd got out of the bike business a year or two
> back.)
>
> Rivendell hired Joe Starck to build frames; he had been a builder for
> Masi and other places (maybe Waterford, too).  I don't remember if
> painting was subbed out to Joe Bell right away, since Joe Starck
> didn't paint AFAIK.  As the waiting list expanded, part of the
> Rivendell line (All-Rounders and maybe some other frames) were subbed
> out to Match Cycles, which was owned by Tim Match.  Curt Goodrich
> worked for Match and built quite a few of the frames made there.
> When Match went away, Curt moved back to Minneapolis came on board
> with Rivendell as their second frame builder.  For a period of time,
> both Curt and Joe built Rivendells.  Joe stopped, Curt went on.  The
> waiting list grew and Curt also developed his own frame business.
> Oddly enough I can't remember who's been building customs since Curt
> stopped, I guess I haven't been paying enough attention.
>
> Grant has periodically looked for ways to produce lower-cost frames
> than the full customs.  Those have their own histories.  In terms of
> geometry, I think that few people need a custom frame.  Human
> proportions tend to vary pretty consistently, and most of the
> variations can be easily accommodated with the various adjustments
> that are possible.  It's the details- braze-ons, brake reach, tire
> clearance, etc.- that really determine the utility of a frame for
> specific needs.
>
> >
>


-- 
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

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[RBW] Re: shifter opinions

[Mike]

I've used both. I really like the Silvers. I like that they're longer
and the action on them is great.

--mike

On Jan 28, 4:42 pm, chris love  wrote:
> Hi all. I'm deciding which shifters to put on my new ride (silver bar
> ends - friction only i think - or shimano) and curious who swears by
> which. Any opinions?
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[RBW] Re: shifter opinions

[David Estes]

How many gears?  I don't like friction with nine speed or higher
drivetrains

On Wed, Jan 28, 2009 at 4:42 PM, chris love  wrote:

>
> Hi all. I'm deciding which shifters to put on my new ride (silver bar
> ends - friction only i think - or shimano) and curious who swears by
> which. Any opinions?
>
> >
>


-- 
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

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[RBW] Re: shifter opinions

[Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery]

I think the silver and shimano shifters are the same length - it's an
optical illusion.

I like Shimano because the little rubbery cover over the lever feels
good in-hand and is less pointy when I jam my leg into it when I hop
off the saddle carelessly. Also, the indexed option is handy. Silvers
look nicer, though.


On Jan 28, 10:43 pm, Mike  wrote:
> I've used both. I really like the Silvers. I like that they're longer
> and the action on them is great.
>
> --mike
>
> On Jan 28, 4:42 pm, chris love  wrote:
>
> > Hi all. I'm deciding which shifters to put on my new ride (silver bar
> > ends - friction only i think - or shimano) and curious who swears by
> > which. Any opinions?
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[RBW] Re: shifter opinions

[rcnute]

I prefer Silvers.  I think it's easier to find the gear with them.

On Jan 28, 4:42 pm, chris love  wrote:
> Hi all. I'm deciding which shifters to put on my new ride (silver bar
> ends - friction only i think - or shimano) and curious who swears by
> which. Any opinions?
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[RBW] Re: shifter opinions

[chris love]

> How many gears?  I don't like friction with nine speed or higher
> drivetrains

I'm running an 8 speed (12-28)...

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[RBW] Re: shifter opinions

[CycloFiend]

on 1/28/09 4:42 PM, chris love at melvinl...@gmail.com wrote:

> 
> Hi all. I'm deciding which shifters to put on my new ride (silver bar
> ends - friction only i think - or shimano) and curious who swears by
> which. Any opinions?

Silvers.  

Then if you want to go to a downtube setup down the road, you're all ready
to do so.

Plus the Silvers are smth.

And Narrower.  (Unless that's another optical conclusion...)


- J

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
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"That which is overdesigned, too highly specific, anticipates outcome; the
anticipation of outcome guarantees, if not failure, the absence of grace."

William Gibson - "All Tomorrow's Parties"



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