Re: Stus-List Batteries

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The Battery Council International (BCI) group number is a specification for the 
physical dimensions, terminal type, voltage, and terminal placement of a 
battery. All BCI 31 batteries will be close to the same size, will have the 
same terminals, and the same voltage. Capacity construction and chemistry are 
up to the manufacturer.

A 31 and a 27 are slightly different size. IIRC the footprint of a 31 is only 
slightly longer than the footprint of a 27, but the 31 is substantially taller.

Any retailer who sells batteries will have a BCI manual, since it contains the 
list of what battery size goes into each car, truck, motorcycle, RV, tractor, 
etc. model.

A31 is generally a diesel starting battery, higher in capacity than a 27 
starting battery, intended for installation in over the road trucks. Think of 
it as a smaller alternative to a 4D or 8D. Big truck diesels need starting 
current in the range of 900-1100 amps. You would commonly find 2 or more in the 
battery box of a truck.

My 36hp Westerbeake diesel needs 175 amps starting current. Total amp hour 
capacity means more time on the hook so capacity is more important to me than 
starting current, so all my batteries are deep cycle. Because of certain 
factors in battery construction, more cranking amps generally means less amp 
hour capacity, and vice versa.

Since my battery compartment is not tall enough for a bank of 6 volt golf cart 
batteries (which have a lot more capacity than any 12 volt automotive type) or 
a deep cycle version of a 31 (which I think is actually a group 29, but I may 
not remember correctly) I use group 27 deep cycle batteries with 120 Ah 
capacity for the boat - 4 for the house bank and 1 for starting. The 27 deep 
cycles I use give about 400 cold cranking amps, which is way more than needed 
to start the engine. I also have a smaller group 24 deep cycle ( 84AH ) under 
the v berth dedicated to the anchor windlass and Lectra-San.

Think about what your requirements are, and your priorities for the batteries. 
Measure the space you have available. Then go to Auto Zone, Walmart, or 
Canadian Tire to see what will fit in the BCI manual they should have posted 
near the battery rack.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On May 1, 2014, at 17:28, wwadjo...@aol.com via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Can someone with knowledge explain difference between group 27 and 31 
> batteries.  Will 31s fit in same box as 27s?  
> Thanks.  Need to replace house this year.   
> Bill Walker
> C n C 36
> 
> Sent from my HTC
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List List

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

That is "Borg Collective Vessel 34J51"... Though wouldn't all Borg Collective 
ships operate as one entity?

Right generation, wrong quadrant.

Right, Edd?

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On May 2, 2014, at 13:57, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> 
> We are the "listers".  You will be assimilated.  Resistance is futile.
> 
> 7 of 9
> Bejorian Vessel 34J51
> 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List List

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Now you have me wondering whatever happened to Perses 
Kimbata.

Interesting theory. Wonder if you could do a script treatment about getting 
Kirk and Piccard together again to go back in time to eliminate the Borg, and 
then sell the script for enough money to buy a 60 foot C&C?

See, the discussion IS C&C related.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On May 2, 2014, at 18:25, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Rick,
> 
> That's right. 
> 
> But for me, it's wrong generation, wrong quadrant. I'm a Kirk-era fan. Those 
> Borg things belong in the 24th Century. 
> 
> That is, unless you think (like some do) that the Borg were created when Will 
> Decker merged with V'Ger at the end of the first movie.
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> NCC-1701-B
> C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ---
> 914.332.4400  | Office
> 914.332.1671  | Fax
> 914.774.9767  | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone 5
> 
> On May 2, 2014, at 5:02 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> That is "Borg Collective Vessel 34J51"... Though wouldn't all Borg Collective 
> ships operate as one entity?
> 
> Right generation, wrong quadrant.
> 
> Right, Edd?
> 
> Rick Brass
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On May 2, 2014, at 13:57, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> We are the "listers".  You will be assimilated.  Resistance is futile.
>> 
>> 7 of 9
>> Bejorian Vessel 34J51
>> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Charging with engine, was mixed batteries

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Typical voltage regulator on an automotive alternator will provide 13.6 to 13.8 
volts when the engine is running. As the batteries get charged up, which 
happens pretty quickly for a starting battery, the internal resistance of the 
battery will increase and the voltage will drop below 13.5.

The voltage pretty well matches what is needed for a flooded battery. If you 
have a gel battery the mismatch is less  critical because the battery is 
usually charged above 95% or so - unlike the batteries on a boat that get 
deeply discharged.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On May 6, 2014, at 11:54, via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> At the risk of beating a dead horse (battery), I have one more question for 
> the list.
>  
> When the average sailboat engine is running, what is the likely charging 
> voltage to the battery or batteries?
>  
> Unless one has an alternator output controller which matches the recommended 
> voltages for the batteries being
> charged, it seems that they would be charged with whatever voltage the 
> alternator supplies.
>  
> If this is the case, and if one rarely charges the battery(s) at the dock, it 
> seems a little pointless to
> fret over what the voltage profile the battery charger provides, since the 
> batteries are likely charged mostly
> when the engine is running without such a controller.
>  
>  
>  
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
>  
> cenel...@aol.com
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Many years ago, a salty old retired USCG chief taught me the rule of thumb that 
you should have one pound of anchor and one foot of chain for every foot of 
boat length.

I decided this current discussion would be a good time to double check that 
rule of thumb.

I was pleased to find that Boat/US mAkes the same recommendation. Fortress 
anchor calls for less weight in their aluminum anchors, and a relatively short 
length of chain to help in setting the light anchor. But for steel anchors and 
a 30 knot wind, Fortress also says the pound/foot/foot system is recommended.

Mark, I have to agree that 5/8 anchor rode is more than you need.

I also use 1/4 HT chain and 1/2" 3-strand for the anchor rode on my 38. I do 
have 65' of chain in each rode and oversized anchors, because once the anchor 
is down I want it to stay down.

According to what I found this morning, the load on a typical sailboat at 
anchor in various wind strengths is:

@15kt.   @30kt.  @42kt.   @50kt
30'.175#.700#. 1400#.   2800#
35'. 225.   900.  1800. 3600
40'. 300.   1200. 2400.4800


Max working load of New England Ropes 3-strand is 1/3 of break strength (I 
prefer to use 25% in sizing the line myself). Break strength for various sizes 
are:
3/8.4400 #
1/2.7800
9/16.   9400
5/8. 12,200

So 1/2" rode should be adequate for a 30' boat in almost 50 kts, a 35' boat in 
42+, or a 40' boat in well over 30 knots. I will almost always deploy a second 
anchor if the winds will be 30+.

As far as what chain to use, the working load for various size chain is:
Proof coil.  HT (G4).  BBB
1/4.1300. 2600
5/16.   1800. 3900.3800
3/8. 2650.  5400
So one could use big chain to increase catenary and help the anchor stay set, 
but 1/4HT is strong enough for up to a 40' boat in any reasonable conditions.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On May 12, 2014, at 23:42, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Considering I use 1/4" HT chain and 1/2" nylon for Shift, I have to agree. 
> 3/8" nylon would be appropriate to give enough stretch with strength. 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
> 
>> On 12 May 2014 17:59, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:
>> Mark,
>> Sounds like you are building a hurricane proof anchoring system?   5/8" 
>> nylon is hard to get onto cleats smaller than 10".   Just sayin.
>> 
>> Following Chapman's, I tried 5/8" docklines and found I could never get them 
>> over my 6" and even 8" cleats.  I use 1/2" nylon three strand twisted for 
>> lunch hook and 1/2" stretchy double braid for tougher situations.  36' and 
>> 11000#.   Gave more than 200' of 5/8" nylon docklines to my brother-in-law 
>> for his clamboats.
>> 
>> If you are committed to your present system, you should check out Wichard 
>> for amazingly strong schackles in small sizes.  Their SS is the strongest.
>> 
>> Chuck
>> Resolute
>> 1990 C&C 34R
>> Atlantic City, NJ
>> 
>> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
>> To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
>> Sent: Monday, May 12, 2014 1:52:33 PM
>> Subject: Stus-List Shackles and chain
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Needed to replace the chain and shackles on my anchor - the existing 
>> shackles needed to be cut off with a cut-off blade (totally corroded).
>> 
>> Bought 16' of 5/16 galv chain to add to connect the 27lb Kingston plow 
>> anchor and the ~250ft of 5/8" rode.
>> But I was surprised to find that I couldn't fit the U of a 3/8" shackle 
>> (or even a 5/16") through the 5/16 chain.  Everything I read said I 
>> should bump up the shackle one size from the chain to maintain working 
>> strength - but given I couldn't fit the ends of the U through the chain 
>> links I had to use 2 shackles on the anchor --- one with the pin through 
>> the anchor and a second shackle reversed with the pin through the chain 
>> link.
>> 
>> Is that normal?  I tried chain a 2 different locations with same results
>> 
>> Mark
>> 
>> -- 
>> 
>> 
>> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>>- George Santayana
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted system

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The soot builds up partly because the engine is running too cool.

Operating temp should be at least 165 to 180 F.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On May 21, 2014, at 23:43, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Why change?  Just let the engine run cooler.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> 1989 C&C 37+
> S/V Sea Hawk
> Solomons, MD
> 
>> On May 21, 2014 2:07 PM, "PME via CnC-List"  wrote:
>> Hi,
>> 
>> I am converting Yanmar 3QM30 raw water cooling system into a fresh water 
>> cooling system with a Sen-Dure heat exchanger.  The current thermostat is 
>> Yanmar part number 105582-49200.The fresh water thermostat listed for 
>> the 3QM30F looks like a completely different size thermostat.Does anyone 
>> know the Yanmar part number for a fresh water (i.e. higher temperature) 
>> thermostat which will fit a raw water 3QM30 system?
>> 
>> Thanks for any help.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -
>> Paul E.
>> 1981 C&C Landfall 38
>> S/V Johanna Rose
>> Carrabelle, FL
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fw: What is it for? ???

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I used to have a Newport of similar vintage to the 26. It was a C&C design and 
also had a small locker on the aft end of the starboard cockpit seat, sand 
drained into the bilge. On the Newport this was intended as a cooler for 
beverages and snacks in the cockpit. The drain into the bilge was probably 
intended to keep ice, etc. from getting contaminated with seawater when sailing.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On May 23, 2014, at 21:00, via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> sam :-)
> From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com
> Sent: Friday, May 23, 2014 6:58 PM
> To: ec.turtl...@gmail.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List What is it for? ???
> 
> My 26 has this area draining outside the boat, just above the waterline 
> through a ball valve. 
> I haven't done anything with mine as I just daysail.
> Might be a good place to store propane if you overnight on the boat.
> 
> sam :-)
> C&C 26 Liquorice 
> Ghost Lake Alberta 
> 
> From: Eric Cahn via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, May 23, 2014 1:33 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Reply To: Eric Cahn
> Subject: Stus-List What is it for? ???
> 
> I have a box under starboard cockpit bench that catches rain from whole seat 
> and has a drain open to bilge. I am changing its drain to out the bilge pump 
> outlet below it, as I have removed my bilge loop and am now pumping out near 
> gunwhale.
> 
> What was it designed to do? What have others done to best utilize this   
> currently annoying thing?
> 
> Eric Cahn
> S/V Lattitudes
> C&C 26
> Washington, NC
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List First sail

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Or those of us who have engines with stop solenoid so instead of cables.

Sent from my iPad

> On May 26, 2014, at 13:31, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I would venture to ask all who never tried starting the engine with the stop 
> cable pulled out to raise hands. I am afraid that the list of those who 
> haven’t would be short and include mostly people with Atomics (;-)
>  
> Marek
>  
> From: Chuck S via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, May 26, 2014 12:35 PM
> To: Danny Haughey ; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
> Subject: Re: Stus-List First sail
>  
> Hey Danny,
> Quite an exciting trip.  Farley Mowat wrote that the adventure starts when 
> everything goes wrong.  Don't be too hard on yourself.  It was a learning 
> experience and success in the end without outside assistance earns you some 
> credit. The more you use the boat, the more you develop good habits that 
> provide less adventure and more fun.  
>  
> When I first got my boat I had some similar panic situations you can learn 
> from:
>  
> 1)  Left the dock without warming up the engine and had to restart it several 
> times manuvering through the marina.  Now I start the engine a good 10 min 
> while I single up lines and remove the sail cover and prepare halyards etc.  
> I don't leave the slip or the mooring until it's running smooth and pumping 
> normal.
>  
> 2)  Tried to restart the engine with the kill cable pulled out.  It is 
> located behind the helm and a few times after sailing I would forget to push 
> it in.  The engine would turn over but with no fuel, would not start.  My 
> wife never lets me forget that.  Now I developed a habit and push it in, 
> after stopping the  engine.   And I check that before starting too.   So many 
> little things.
>  
> 3) Pulled the genoa sheet to unfurl the genoa and the furling line jams,  
> either a hockle in the block or a snag somewhere.  Now I flake the furling 
> line tail in figure eights, inside a sheet bag and it runs free.  
>  
> There are so many things to remember, you need a written checklist.  After 
> running the boat many times you will develop a habit, like charging the cell 
> phone, the handheld VHF, the handheld GPS, the  night before a trip.  Another 
> tip I can share:  Clean and Lubricate everything so it works well and it will 
> save you a lot of heartache and panic situations.  
>  
> Let us know how the second sailing goes. 
>  
>  
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
>  
> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
> To: paradigmat...@gmail.com, "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
> 
> Sent: Monday, May 26, 2014 10:40:18 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List First sail
>  
> Thanks for the recount mark.  I bet that was a VERY long 30 minutes!
>  
> That's why it's called a shakedown cruise!  Glad you sorted it all out!
>  
> I cringed a little when you said you poured spring water into the cooling 
> system.  I just remember what trap water used to do to my first car.  The 
> coolant was always rust red.  I try to keep a gallon of distilled water & 
> coolant mix on board after all the leaks I had after installing the fresh 
> water system and all the crap SS house clamps failing...  I know that "smoke" 
> from below scenario quite well! 
>  
> I can totally see you doing doughnuts to roll the head sail!  Awesome!
>  
>  
> From my Android phone 
>  
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> Date: 05/26/2014 1:07 AM (GMT-05:00) 
> To: M Bod ,1 CnC List  
> Subject: Re: Stus-List First sail 
> 
>  
> Either leave the engine seacock open, or hang the ignition key off the 
> seacock handle. Me, I'm useless and we have a Yanmar, so I can start the 
> engine with pretty much anything I have in my pocket including lint. I leave 
> the seacock open. I know this makes me a bad person and I can live with that. 
>  
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>  
>  
>> On 25 May 2014 20:13, M Bod via CnC-List  wrote:
>> 
>> OK. Boat got off the dock today. After a bunch of engine work, new hoses and 
>> new fuel tank (all installed by mechanic) everything is supposed to be 
>> working smoothly.
>> 
>> Well. Getting off the dock was not so smooth. Couldn't sort out why roller 
>> furler was jamming for a bit.
>> Finally sorted the issue, started the engine, made sure all looked good 
>> (exhaust a little louder than I expected, but not bad).
>> 
>> Off we went (had a friend along to assist moving the boat from the marina to 
>> a nearby cove where it can stay an extra week).
>> 
>> 10 min out I see some smoke riding through the companion way. Throttle down. 
>> Full off engine cowling. Coolant everywhere! Must have a leak.
>> 
>> We turn around to limp back to the dock. I'm looking at the mess with the 
>> coolant boiling over when I realize (OK remember mechanic warned me) the 
>> seacock for the engine is CLOSED!!!
>> 
>> Opened the seacock.  Everything cooled off. We had burned off much of our 
>> coolant - so I poured ina

Re: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I have an M35B in Imzadi. Max RPM is 3000 for that engine. IIRC the max torque 
is between 2400 and 2600 RPM - which is consistent with the rule of thumb that 
max torque is at about 80% of max RPM.

Your engine will thank you if you use it regularly and with significant load. 
Idling for extended periods to charge batteries, it running for long periods at 
low RPMs is not good for it. But 2300 is pretty close to 2400-2500, so you are 
probably not doing significant harm. Just don't be afraid of going to 2500.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On May 27, 2014, at 12:16, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
>   Curious to know what you set as your own personal Max RPMs on your 
> diesel engine?  The Enterprise has an Universal M35. 
> 
>   I used to stay around 2300, but people tell me diesels like to be 
> worked and I could go higher. My mechanic said don’t be afraid to go 2500 or 
> more, but I wonder if he’s just looking for more repair income :-)
> 
>   How much do you push your engine? 
> 
> 
>   All the best,
> 
>   Edd
> 
> 
>   Edd M. Schillay
>   Starship Enterprise
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>   City Island, NY 
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 2GM20F Yanmar Shift cable?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Or go to your reputable auto parts store with the old cable. A Teledyne cable 
is a Teledyne cable. And probably less at the auto parts store than at a boat 
supplier - and more likely to be in stock instead of a special order.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On May 27, 2014, at 12:09, Rich Knowles via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Curtis, dig the old cable out and go to your marine supplier with the old one 
> to make sure you have the right ends and length. 
> 
> Rich
> 
>> On May 27, 2014, at 12:44, Curtis via CnC-List  wrote:
>> 
>> I have a C&C30 MK1 with a throttle on the right and a shift on my left on 
>> the Edison pedestal. straight up and down motion on them both.
>> Any Idea what cable I would use to replace the shift cable? 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> thanks Curtis
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> "All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty 
>> recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the 
>> dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with 
>> open eyes, to make it possible."
>> 
>> T. E. Lawrence
>> 
>> . 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Cruising

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Mike;
 
If you travel the ICW on your trip south, get in touch with me when you get to North Carolina. I'd be happy to play host for an evening, and would love to compare boat mods made to adapt our racer/cruisers for liveaboard cruising.
 
Rick Brass
Imzadi
C&C 38 mk1
Washingon, NC
252-946-2244

-Original Message- From: Persuasion via CnC-List Sent: May 29, 2014 9:56 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Cruising 


Hi Stu
 
Just wanted to let the list know that this coming Sunday we (the Admiral and I) are leaving on an extended cruise.  We will be sailing down the St. Lawrence to spend the summer in the Maritimes (our home turf) then late summer early fall we’ll head south with our final destination in the Bahamas in early 2015.  In any one wishes to follow our blog they can access it here.  Also, track our progress here.  If anyone spots me along the way come over for a visit.
 
I would also like to thank you for your efforts and all of the support I have received from the list.
 
Would you please un-subscribe me for now.
 
Thanks
MikeS/V PersuasionC&C 37 Keel/CBLong Sault (soon to be ???)



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Strange HIN, can anyone clarify

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

A friend is looking at a 1974 30-1 in Beaufort, NC. The seller gave us a copy 
of a recent survey of the boat.

On the survey the hull number is listed as "300116" which is probably taken 
from the metal plate in the cockpit. Model 30. Hull #116. Makes sense.

But the HIN shown for the boat is MDZ45139G473, which seems all wrong. For one 
thing, the date would make this a 73 model not a 74. And MDZ is the 
manufacturer code for a home made boat built in Maryland.

Can anyone help me clarify what appears to be an error or typo in the survey? 
Does anyone her have a HIN like this.?

Rick brass

Sent from my iPad

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Allied built a knock off of the Cape Dory 25. One came through the city docks 
where I work about a week ago, with a young couple moving it to their new home. 
When I asked if it was a Cape Dory, they told me it was an Allied, licensed 
from the Cape Dory 25 design.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 2, 2014, at 18:23, Bill Bina via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The issue with the Bluenose is that it is only maybe 16 feet long and this 
> boat is obviously much bigger. The cape dory I linked has the same port 
> configuration, but I agree that the stern is wrong. There were a ton of "me 
> too" boats in that era, so this could even be from some company that built 
> 10-20 boats and folded. 25 to 20 feet seems the right size range. The roue 20 
> lacks the wood coamings, and has slotted metal toerails. To me it seems like 
> just another of the "me too" boats with lines approximately borrowed from CD. 
> This boat has many CD inspired visual clues. The little triangular second set 
> of spreaders looks familiar. Another guess of mine that is probably wrong, 
> but might jog someone else's memory is that it looks similar but not 
> identical to a Sea Sprite.
> 
> http://www.boatersresources.com/bfs_detail.php?adid=99781
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
>> On 6/2/2014 4:51 PM, dwight wrote:
>> The stern of the cape dorey is quite different and not as sleek as the lttle 
>> Bluenose or the Roue 20, which is another possibility but the Roue 20 is 30 
>> feet long
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina 
>> - gmail via CnC-List
>> Sent: June 2, 2014 3:18 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?
>>  
>> http://www.sailingtexas.com/scapedory25100.html
>> 
>> 
>> Bill Bina
>>> On 6/2/2014 1:08 PM, David Jacobs via CnC-List wrote:
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Richard;
 
This is a subject that gets covered often on the list. You will find a wealth of instructions on the DIY section of the Photo Album, or in the list archives.
 
But first, you will need to identify which version of portlights (the name for non-opening cbin windos) you have. Early boats came with an aluminum frame mounted to the cabin side, with a polycarbonate window pane mounted with a seal inside the window and a spline outside and holding the window into the frame. This version was common until the late 70s - say 79 or so. 
 
Later boats had the portlights bonded to the outside of the cabin sides with a material called Plexus.
 
I have the aluminum frames on both of my boats. New lenses can be nade by any glass shop that repairs storm doors - the 1/4" smoked gray panes for my boats cost about $10 each. The inner seal can be bought at LOWES, a 20-25 foot roll of EPDM seal costs about $15 or so. I have part of a roll left over but it is in the storage shed. Someone on the list can give you a part number to purchase. The outer spline can be gotten from the glas shop, or bought on Ebay pretty cheaply. IIRC I paid about 40 cents a foot for the last I bought.
 
If you have the glued in windows, several listers have alternate suggestions for gluingnew panes to the cabin top. Keep in mind that the portlight becomes part of the structure of the boat and is subject to a lot of flexing and high loads, so you want to do the repair with that in mind. 
 
If you tell us which style of portlight you have, we can provide more information to you.
 
Rick Brass
Washington, NC.  
 

-Original Message- From: Richard Jorgensen via CnC-List Sent: Jun 2, 2014 10:25 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1 



Both cabin windows on my C&C30 are leaking and need replacement.  Does anyone have any experience, advice or suggestions?
Thanks,
Rick Jorgensen



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Mike and Richard

Mike makes a good point that I neglected to mention. Based on my experience 
with the aluminum framed port lights, there is little likelihood of the leak 
being between the frame and the cabin side. So don't disturb the window frame 
unless you absolutely need to.

I've had my 1975 25mk1 for 20 years this month, and my 1976 38mk1 for 11 years 
last month. Never had a leak around the frame - C&C built the boats well and 
the butyl sealant is still doing its job.

The lexan/plexiglas lenses get crazed after 10-15 years in the sun. I initially 
tried to polish the lenses on the 25 in about 1999, discovered it to be a time 
consuming PITA, and ended up replacing them. Took an old lens to a glass shop 
that happens to repair storm doors and they used the old lens as a pattern for 
new ones. And since a glass shop guess a lot of polycarbonate for door repairs, 
new panes are pretty cheap.

As someone already pointed out, you can get kits for reselling the port lights 
from Southshore or Holland Marine. Convenient but pricy. The EPDM seals from 
Lowes last longer than the foam seals used originally, and I've found I can get 
materials to do all 4 of the port lights on my 28 for the price of 1 kit from 
Southshore. Buy, hey, I'm cheap.

Anyway, reselling the aluminum frame port lights is cheap and easy maintenance.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 3, 2014, at 8:35, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> 
> Rick
>  
> One thing to add to what you have been told.
>  
> Check to see that the leaks are from between the aluminum frame and the 
> window pane rather than from between the aluminum frame and the boat.  I 
> suspect this is in fact the case and if so DO NOT remove the aluminum frame 
> as there is no need.
>  
> Mike
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard 
> Jorgensen via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2014 9:06 AM
> To: 'Rick Brass'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1
>  
> Hi Rick,
> This is an absolute wealth of information that will save me 
> time, frustration and should lead to a successful repair.  She is a 1973 boat 
> with the aluminum frame so your repair advice and detail is already 
> invaluable.  Additional information would be appreciated, but with what you 
> have already provided makes a new C&C 30 sailor very happy.  I hope someday 
> that I can repay the favor to you or other C&C owners, but will certainly let 
> you know of the outcome after the repair is made.
> Thanks,
> Rick Jorgensen
> Gloucester, MA
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, June 2, 2014 11:35 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1
>  
> Richard;
>  
> This is a subject that gets covered often on the list. You will find a wealth 
> of instructions on the DIY section of the Photo Album, or in the list 
> archives.
>  
> But first, you will need to identify which version of portlights (the name 
> for non-opening cbin windos) you have. Early boats came with an aluminum 
> frame mounted to the cabin side, with a polycarbonate window pane mounted 
> with a seal inside the window and a spline outside and holding the window 
> into the frame. This version was common until the late 70s - say 79 or so.
>  
> Later boats had the portlights bonded to the outside of the cabin sides with 
> a material called Plexus.
>  
> I have the aluminum frames on both of my boats. New lenses can be nade by any 
> glass shop that repairs storm doors - the 1/4" smoked gray panes for my boats 
> cost about $10 each. The inner seal can be bought at LOWES, a 20-25 foot roll 
> of EPDM seal costs about $15 or so. I have part of a roll left over but it is 
> in the storage shed. Someone on the list can give you a part number to 
> purchase. The outer spline can be gotten from the glas shop, or bought on 
> Ebay pretty cheaply. IIRC I paid about 40 cents a foot for the last I bought.
>  
> If you have the glued in windows, several listers have alternate suggestions 
> for gluingnew panes to the cabin top. Keep in mind that the portlight becomes 
> part of the structure of the boat and is subject to a lot of flexing and high 
> loads, so you want to do the repair with that in mind.
>  
> If you tell us which style of portlight you have, we can provide more 
> information to you.
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC.  
>  
>  
> -Original Message- 
> From: Richard Jorgensen via CnC-List 
> Sent: Jun 2, 2014 10:25 PM 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject:

Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Richard,

Just to add a bit to what Dennis has written (and thanks Denis for providing 
the seal part numbers, it saves me a trip to the storage shed and from digging 
through my spares):

I use a tongue depresser as a push stick, bought a package at Walgreens a few 
years ago for mixing epoxy and find them very useful for various boat projects. 
I suppose a Popsicle stick would also work.

When installing the spline (outer seal). Be careful not to stretch it. It tends 
to shrink as it ages, and can pull out of the corners of the frame over time. I 
cut the spline a couple of inches longer than it needs to be and try to push 
the spline into the groove in the frame so it is slightly compressed. When I 
get back to the top of the frame, I use a razor blade to cut the spline to 
length and make a tight joint.

Rick Brass

> 
Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 3, 2014, at 9:29, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> 
> Like others have said, easy job.  Here's the step by step.
> 
> Cut new lenses from smoked Lexan (polycarbonate) using old lenses as template
> 
> Mix a bowl of soapy water and make a "push" stick.  A cut off piece of yard 
> stick or similar will work.
> 
> Clean the old gasket off the aluminum frame completely.
> 
> Install the new EPDM gasket from Lowes or Home Depot (Frost King D gasket 
> V25BK or MD Building Products #1025) with joint at top
> 
> Place lens.  
> 
> Wet spline with soapy water and start spline at top center.  Work it around 
> frame using soapy water and push stick,
> 
> Pop a beer.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
>> 
> 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I'm not sure the temperature extremes are radically different between St Louis 
and eastern Pennsylvania, where my 25 lived after I bought her, or Boston, 
where the 38 lived before I bought her. On both boats, a single strip of spline 
is all that is needed and has stayed in the corners with no problem.

It is in the technique for putting in the spline.

As I suggested in an earlier post, start installing the spline at the top 
center of the frame (actually Dennis said that). As you insert the spline with 
your push stick, also push back in the direction of the joint, which will 
compress the spline slightly as it goes into the groove. Compressing the spline 
as it is installed, as opposed to the stretching which is more natural when you 
just push it into place, will keep it in the corners of the window. At least 
until it gets old, hard, and cracked from exposure, and it's time to replace it 
anyway when that occurs.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 5, 2014, at 16:31, "Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> Rick,
> I did the repair just like the list suggested; I have the Al frames.
> However, I tried to have just one cut in the spline that holds the lens in 
> place.  In other words, a single piece.  Unfortunately, in the temp range we 
> get here in STL, the expansion/contraction tends to pull the spline from the 
> corners.
> It hasn't leaked, but I spend time pushing it back in place.
> If/when I do it again, I'll add more cuts (pieces) and cut wedges out of the 
> spline at the corners to allow them to seat better.
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C&C 30-1
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Distance to maneuver to exit and enter slip

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

FWIW, All of our docks have fingers that are 35 long by approximately 16 wide. 
There is a 60 foot fairway between each set of docks. That is 171% of nominal 
boat length. We have put sailboats as long as 38 into the 35 foot slips (about 
160%) with little or no problems.

Trawlers and single engine power boats are less maneuverable that most 
sailboats, so have more problems using slips down the fairway.

Small runabout powerboats are worse yet, but principally because the drivers 
only seem to know two power settings - neutral or Full throttle.

Surprisingly, the worst case is a Magregor 26 with a 50 hp motor, who can't get 
into his slip no way unless he puts the daggerboard down all the way. Without 
the board down, when you turn the engine off center the boat just slips 
sideways like a flat bottomed dinghy instead of turning. We generally have the 
skipper come up the fairway and throw us a line, then we pull him into his slip 
by hand.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 5, 2014, at 16:54, Don Siddall via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> How much turning space should a boat have to be able to safely exit and enter 
> a slip, if the slip is at right angles to the channel?
> 
> Presently our club is wrestling with the issue of the length of boat that 
> should be in the slip given the amount of room available to back out, then 
> straighten out and go down the channel between the docks.
> 
> The Parks Canada's guideline for their docking design is that there must be 
> 175% of the boat length to allow a skipper to exit and enter a slip.
> 
> We all know that C&Cs need less than most boats. Any idea what the specs are 
> for C&C's?
> 
> I'd appreciate hearing if there are any guidelines that your club uses for 
> all keelboats.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Don
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast - now compass oil

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Call Ritchie or go on line to find a repair center near you. They will have 
compass oil.

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 5, 2014, at 13:49, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Whale oil will also work. :-) 
> 
> Bill Bina
>> On 6/5/2014 1:41 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
>> West Marine does sell it .. in the States, but not in Canada. I called the 
>> local chandleries and no one can get it. So I think I have to stick to light 
>> mineral oil. Where does one find light mineral oil?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Just a reminder before we all send Ed off to but a moisture meter and dismount 
the rudder to take it home to dry out.

The rudder is a transom hung one on a 24, and probably made like the rudder on 
a comparable vintage 25. Which means it is hollow below the waterline and has a 
hole at the top and bottom so it can fill with water for neutral buoyancy and 
drain when the boat is hauled.

Water intrusion isn't likely to be a problem with this design. Damage to the 
rudder is more likely from an owner letting it slam over against the stops when 
backing (over the years I've seen probably 6 or 8 transom hung rudders with 
cracks or damaged push/pull cable steering gear from this) or from a grounding 
that damages the fiberglass skins.

Rick Brass
25 mk1 la Belle Aurora
Owned her for 20 years this month

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 6, 2014, at 9:31, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The pinless moisture meters can be pricey ($~250).  Check with a local 
> surveyor, they usually have meters.   See if they'll inspect just the rudder. 
>  I wouldn't drill holes before I was absolutely sure there was water in there.
> 
> There were little or no indications of water in mine but when the fiberglass 
> guy removed one side of the fiberglass shell, he was able to pour water out.  
> The foam was completely saturated which prevented any outward sloshing sound.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
>> On Jun 6, 2014 8:47 AM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" 
>>  wrote:
>> I don’t remember. But I did not use any special (i.e. especially long drill 
>> bits). And I did not drill more than probably 1/8 diameter. I am guessing 
>> here, but I would imagine an inch (?).
>>  
>> Marek
>>  
>> From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List
>> Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2014 1:50 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question
>>  
>> I’ll try it this weekend. How far did you drill in? The boat’s still on the 
>> hard, about to finally get its new name, Banshee, painted on.
>> I bought it with the name Jack Rabbit, which also included a cartoony vinyl 
>> decal of a bunny, very silly.
>> Ed
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> From: Marek Dziedzic 
>> Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2014 13:44:23 -0400
>> To: Ed Dooley , 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question
>> 
>> there was water in mine, when I bought it. I drained it through a little 
>> hole at the bottom. Btw. I never glassed the hole; instead I used some gunk 
>> (silicon, butyl etc.; whatever was around) to plug it. You can probably do 
>> it with some chewing gum.
>>  
>> The good news is that you can easily lift the rudder of its hinges and do 
>> the inspection when the boat is in the water.
>>  
>> Marek
>> 
>> From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
>> Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2014 12:09 PM
>> To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question
>>  
>> Thanks for the advice guys. I came across a C&C 24 rudder failure problem in 
>> the Wooden Boat forums (see below). According to the guy whose rudder 
>> snapped, it’s 2 mahogany planks wrapped in fiberglass mat. That makes the 
>> drilling a hole idea seem a little unnecessary, unless I do it to see if the 
>> mahogany is rotting, not to expect water to pour out. Maybe later C&Cs used 
>> a foam core. Thanks for the tip on the pinless moisture meters, I have an 
>> old lignomat pin type.
>> Ed
>> 
>> “In heavy winds last Sunday (7/22) my rudder snapped at the water line -  
>> the broken off part disappeared as my C&C 24 was blown in circles until I 
>> got the sails down.   A replacement was quoted at $2900.  The construction 
>> was fiberglass mats over two sandwiched mahogany planks.  I am looking for 
>> advice on rebuilding it.  Would marine grade plywood  be stronger?  I 
>> thought I would cut the general shape out of mahogany or plywood sandwiched 
>> together and then over lay it with fiberglass mats.  Any suggestions?”
>> 
>> 
>> From: Ken Heaton 
>> Reply-To: 
>> Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2014 09:21:17 -0300
>> To: Ed Dooley , cnc-list 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question
>> 
>> No gouging.  You use a Pinless Moisture Meter like this:
>> 
>> http://answers.canadiantire.ca/answers/9045/product/0574572P/mastercraft-mastercraft-pinless-moisture-detector-questions-answers/questions.htm
>> 
>> Or these: http://www.electrophysics.on.ca/e_index.htm
>> 
>> You don't use the meter for an absolute value, instead you use the meter to 
>> compare an area you know is dry to one that is questionable.
>> 
>> I don't know anything about the construction of the rudder on the 24 but 
>> I'll assume it is a fibreglass shell with a foam core and a structural web 
>> inside welded to the rudder shaft.
>> 
>> Me, I'd drill a 1/8"hole straight up through the bottom edge of the rudder, 
>> using a long bit so you can get several inches up into the foam core and see 
>> if water comes out.  If there is water and it comes out clear you shouldn't

Re: Stus-List Annapolis > Bermuda race

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

BTW, I'm pretty sure Jake Broderson and Fred Street are crewing on  The Office

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 8, 2014, at 20:43, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> 
> Everybody watching?  
> 
> http://www.bermudaoceanrace.com/race-overview/2014tracker
> 
> C&C listers are Joel Aronson, "The Office" and Steve Sharkey, "Impromtu".
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Annapolis > Bermuda race

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

It seems to have been a pretty slow race so far. We are having winds from a 
high pressure system that passed north of the fleet as they came down the bay. 
The fleet is about 100-150 NM into the ocean now, and most of the boats in PHRF 
3 (which includes Impromptu and The Office) are heading east into 5-10 kt 
southeasterly winds at 4 to 5 knots.

The high is forecast to drift southeast through Thursday, with winds increasing 
to 15 southerly. Joel is positioned at the right side of the fleet, south of 
the rhumb line, so he may be able to get most advantage from the wind as it 
strengthens and veers.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 8, 2014, at 20:43, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> 
> Everybody watching?  
> 
> http://www.bermudaoceanrace.com/race-overview/2014tracker
> 
> C&C listers are Joel Aronson, "The Office" and Steve Sharkey, "Impromtu".
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C 38 mk1 vs mk2

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Sorry for the late post, but I've just gotten back from the C&C owners 
gathering in Bermuda.

As James has said, the exact break is a mystery as deep as the whereabouts of 
Hoffa's body or Jimmy Buffets shaker of salt. The preponderance of opinion 
seems to be that the change from mk1 to mk2 happened with hulls beginning in 
September, 1976, and occurred somewhere around hull number 90.

I have been aboard 5 different 38s over the years, and they all look the same 
to me. I was once told by a local surveyor who used to work at the Rhode Island 
plant that the differences were changes made in the shape below the waterline 
to improve the IOR rating. I've heard the same from other sources, but none 
definitive. PHRF makes no distinction between the models.

My boat is hull 47, and was laid down in January '76 and shipped to the buyer 
in late April that year. Nothing in my paperwork or the build file refers to 
the boat as a Mk1, which is logical since it was built before the commonly 
accepted start of the mk2. The first reference to it as a mk1 was in some 
paperwork from the PO who bought the boat in the 80s.

The beam is over 12 feet (I've measured) at the toe rails. The commonly listed 
beam for the mk2 is something like 12'3", and since the hull has a pronounced 
tumblehome that is believable. I have an old IOR measurement certificate for my 
boat dated in 1978 which lists the beam as "12.6" but who knows how accurate 
that number is or exactly how it should be interpreted.

As James said, the precursor for the 38 was a one-tonner. I've been told that 
only a few - maybe 3 or 4 - were built. The paperwork I got with my boat 
includes a copy of an article published in a Canadian sailing magazine in 
November 1974 that discusses some changes made to improve the IOR rating and 
performance of a successful C&C 38 foot racing boat. The article lists the beam 
as 11'5". My theory is that the original race boats were 11'5" and the 
production hulls were all over 12', and that the specs for the race boats are 
the source for spec sheets that show the narrower dimension for the Mk1.

Steve, you are right that it is a lot of boat for the money, and one of the 
prettiest girls in the harbor.

Rick Brass
Imzadi
C&C 38 mk1
Washington, NC

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 17, 2014, at 20:06, jtsails via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Steve, the break between the Mk1 and Mk2 is a total mystery to me. I own Hull 
> #100 which was built in 1976 while Rick Brass has hull #47 built sometime in 
> 1975? All evidence indicates that my boat is a Mk2 while Rick's is a Mk1. I 
> have been on both boats and I'll be darned if I can find any difference and 
> in my opinion there is no difference. My guess is that C&C didn't like the 
> measurement certificate for the early boats and decided to call the next 
> years boat a Mk2 to get the boat remeasured (just a stab in the dark guess 
> though). Keep in mind that the 38 was designed as a large 1 tonner and the 
> Mk1 was rated slightly above the cut off. I have also noticed that the 
> brochures on the the website do not make any distinction in the different 
> years. Various sources list different dimensions for the beam measurement, 
> and again I can't spot it between the two boats. I suspect that is due to 
> measuring the beam on deck (narrower) versus the overall beam (wider). Some 
> of the sources list the Mk1 as being 6" narrower but that is about the amount 
> of tumblehome in the sides. PHRF also rates them the same.
> James
> S/V Delaney
> 1976 C&C 38
> Oriental, NC
> - Original Message -
> From: Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2014 8:46 AM
> Subject: Stus-List C&C 38 mk1 vs mk2
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I can't seem to find what the cut-off date was for the 38 between the mk1 and 
> the mk2. Any ideas? I'm not buying a new boat anytime soon but you know, 
> window shopping and maintaining a short list. Sailboatdata lists the MK2 as 
> having IOR specific changes over the MK1, not sure what that means though? 
> The MK3 is a totally different boat. The 38 has really grown on me and I 
> think it's a really pretty boat. I've read that at least one or two have 
> circumnavigated and they are a lot of boat for the money. Just looking for 
> more info.
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___
This Li

Re: Stus-List Launch

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Richard,

All boats with right hand prop rotation tend to veer to port when under power. 
It is generally more noticeable at lower speeds, but is present all the time. 
It is called torque steer and is the forward motion version of prop walk.

On my 38 it needs 4 or 5 degrees of starboard rudder at cruising speed. When 
hand steering, if I get distracted the boat will head left on its own. George, 
the autopilot, does a lot better job of dealing with it than I do.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 21, 2014, at 14:57, "Richard N. Bush via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am pleased to report that the boat has been launched and that the launch 
> went smoothly; the engine (Yanmar 3HM) fired right up and has plenty of power 
> in reverse, (2 blade fixed prop); the only thing I wasn't ready for was, when 
> under power, there is a steady pull to port, like when a car is out of 
> alignment;is this a normal thing or should I be looking for some 
> adjustment?
>  
> Tomorrow we hoist the sails!  It is reaay nice to be back on the water, 
> 93 degrees and all!
>  
> Richard
> 1985 37 CB Ohio River Mile 600
> 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List getting seasick

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Personally, I have always been convinced that the statement in the ads is a 
really smart and subtle promotional message and not a serious health warning. 
Put there to impress us with the results we might get.

But I vote that we don't add comments on the effectiveness of ED meds to 
foredeck cows and British sports cars as topics for the list.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 24, 2014, at 21:16, Sam Salter via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> ‎If I had an erection lasting more than 4 hours I'd call the Guinness Book of 
> Records first! 
> 
> sam :-)
>   Original Message  
> From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2014 6:47 PM
> To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Reply To: Jake Brodersen
> Subject: Re: Stus-List getting seasick
> 
> Wal,
> 
> Some side effects can be severe. For erections lasting more than four
> hours, you should see a doctor. I carried some Stugeron to Bermuda, but
> thankfully didn't need it.
> 
> Jake
> 
> Jake Brodersen
> "Midnight Mistress"
> C&C 35 Mk-III
> Hampton Va
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Wally
> Bryant via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2014 9:24 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List getting seasick
> 
> Stugeron (cinnarizine) gets my vote. No more than 15mg, and no side effects.
> I don't use it much, and the stuff I have on board is six years old. You
> can't get it in the US, but I ordered it mail order through Canada. In
> Mexico they only have 75mg tablets, so one has to cut them into quarters,
> because too strong a dose will have side effects.
> 
> Wal
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Tacking the genoa

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

David,

I think that there is a problem with the traveler. I replaced my old bridge 
deck mounted Schaefer traveler that came on the boat with a Garhauer. I can 
adjust the traveler from behind the helm using one hand in 15-20 knots. The 
Garhauer has a 6:1 purchase on a ball bearing car.

FWIW, the Garhauer traveler was a bargain. Guido made an extra tall track to 
raise the car in the trough in my bridge deck and drilled the track to match 
the bolt holes in the old track. He also made special brackets for the turning 
blocks so I can trim from the helm. Customized at no extra cost, and under $300 
for a 38 foot boat.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 25, 2014, at 10:13, David Knecht via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>   When it is blowing over 10, it is really hard to pull the traveller up each 
> time.  Do people expect to do this?  Would you do it before the tack when it 
> is easier or after?  I find it really hard to pull the traveller up when it 
> is blowing over 10.  Is it expected that you might need to use a winch?
> Thanks- Dave
> 
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Aluminum coating

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I reprinted my pedestal circa 208 or 2009 when I was replacing the idler 
sheaves that are mounted on the plate below the cockpit sole. I did it off the 
boat and my pedestal is white (so less heat to impact the paint) but I have 
been pleased with the result and no current indication of decay in the finish.

Since I had to remove the idler plate and all the wiring and cables, I took the 
pedestal home to work on it in the shop. Sanded the old surface with something 
like 120 grit to remove the loose powder coat and give some tooth for the 
paint. Primed with Rustoleum primer (think it was zinc chromate) and painted 3 
or 4 coats of off white Rustoleum satin finish paint (2 cans worth IIRC).

Now that I have said I'm pleased and the paint is lasting well, I expect to go 
to the boat and find it suddenly and unexpectedly flaking off. Oh well, just 
another project to add to the list. It is a boat, after all.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 29, 2014, at 22:47, Brad Crawford via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Do you think it would work well on a black pedestal?  Mine has been eroding 
> away in a few spots over the years.  Might be best to remove the pedestal and 
> have the whole thing powder coated, but maybe the zinc chromate primer and 
> black paint might get me by for a few year?  What do you think?  Anyone have 
> any luck with painting over the cancer while still on the boat?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Brad
> CnC 36
> "Dora Pearl"
> Seattle
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Jun 29, 2014, at 3:45 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Tom,
>> 
>> I've used zinc chromate primer and black spray paint.  It has held up well.
>> The primer has a tenacious hold, while the black spray paint may need a
>> touch up after a couple of years.  Overall, I'd say it works well.
>> 
>> Jake
>> 
>> 
>> Jake Brodersen
>> "Midnight Mistress"
>> C&C 35 Mk-III
>> Hampton Va
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
>> Buscaglia via CnC-List
>> Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2014 12:27 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List Aluminum coating
>> 
>> The black coating on the stanchion bases along the rail on Alera have flaked
>> off in a few spots.  I bet someone here has dealt with this issue...
>> 
>> Tom Buscaglia
>> S/V Arera 
>> 1990 C&C 37+/40
>> Vashon WA
>> P 206.463.9200
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Or you could do what I did. The 6'1" draft of my 38 was impractical for the 
Carolina Sounds, the ICW, and the Bahamas. So I called Mars Metals (who cast 
the original keels for most of our boats) and had them make me a torpedo bulb 
to replace the bottom 10" of keel.

For about $4k installed, I now have the draft of a J30 and can still point to 
under 30 degrees apparent.

Plus PHRF gave me 3 seconds because of the presumed loss of performance.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 11, 2014, at 9:29, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Steve,
> 
> As much as I love my 35/3, the 40 is a lot more boat for less money!  I would 
> not let another 6 inches of draft stop me unless I planned to cruise the 
> Bahamas.
> 
> Joel
> 
> 
>> On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 8:19 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> There was another 40 in CT that was asking 29k recently. Same tall rig and 
>> deep draft. It's gone. There are lots of these.
>> 
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Thu, Jul 10, 2014 at 6:02 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> I sometimes pick up donated boats for the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum. 
>>> Another volunteer and I just sailed an early '80's O'Day 30 across the Bay 
>>> for the program. He was interested, because it has a centerboard and his 
>>> mooring is in rather slim water.
>>>  
>>> His thoughts were: Old gear, old upholstery, only two self tailing winches, 
>>> not four.. old instruments, etc. the boat was attractive and will go 
>>> for low dollars. He was counting up the dollars to make it perfect and 
>>> decided he wanted a boat with fewer issues to deal with.
>>>  
>>> I think these boats sit around for a long time because there are few folks 
>>> like many on this list who are knowledgeable enough to look through the 
>>> small faults and make an offer. My friend is skilled, but still wanted the 
>>> 'perfect' boat with few issues for low money. Maybe he didn't want to have 
>>> another project?
>>>  
>>> On the first one, the hailing port is interesting, as the boat is now in 
>>> Maryland. The engine is small and has a lot of hours (almost 2000?), no 
>>> self tailing winches, old (really) Moor instruments (if it breaks, buy new).
>>>  
>>> The other one looks better, is a lot more money for an old boat - and seven 
>>> feet is a non-starter around here.
>>>  
>>> Gary
>>> still happy with the 30-1
>>> - Original Message -
>>> From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2014 4:55 PM
>>> Subject: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats?
>>> 
>>> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1974/C%26C-MK-II-2367894/Cambridge/MD/United-States
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> This looks like a nice MK II and has been for sale for a long time.
>>> My guess is the sticking point is the engine. It has a Westebeke 4-60 
>>> engine, which is a 15 HP diesel derived from a 984 cc MG Midget engine. I 
>>> had an MG Midget and all I have to say to that is Yikes! It may run fine, 
>>> but AFAIK parts are nonexistent for it, so when it breaks it is dead 
>>> forever. Also 15 HP is not exactly overpowered for a 35 foot boat.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1979/C%26C-40-2647391/Branford/CT/United-States
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> The boat sounds and looks decent in the ad. Only things I can see is 
>>> apparently there is no canvas and the 7 foot draft. That boat would be 
>>> trapped in my slip except at high tide.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Joe Della Barba
>>> 
>>> Coquina
>>> 
>>> C&C 35 MK I
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>>> page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>>> page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferen

Re: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats? (now: Keel draft...)

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

A few months ago I spoke with some cruisers headed north after a winter in the 
Bahamas ( not their first trip, either) in a Director 65 drawing 6'6".

I asked them about access because of the deep draft.

Theory old me that 20-25% of the destination/anchorages were not a problem, 
40-50 % could usually be accessed at high tide with a deeper anchorage spot 
available, and the remainder were just not access able.

Do you pick where and when you go, get good at interpreting tide tables, and 
take some longer dinghy rides if you have a deeper draft boat.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 11, 2014, at 10:17, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Draft and draft limitations are interesting markers for some. To me there is 
> no right or wrong, just comfort level. Or slip depth…
> 
> We have acquaintances in the Annapolis area who regularly cruised the Bahamas 
> with one of the original C&C 40’s with it’s deep draft. They had no problems 
> and when they decided to sell the 40 and move up, they bought a Swan 47. ~7.5 
> feet of draft. They still spend their winters in the Bahamas having a good 
> time.
> 
> I come at it from the other end of the spectrum. I’ll take as much keel as I 
> can reasonable get away with. The 37 has 6’ 8” and I’ve never had a problem 
> with it (oh yes, I have run aground many times.  ;-)  ) on the Bay and plan 
> on using it in the Bahamas. I just enjoy the sailing characteristics of and 
> am comfortable with lots of keel underneath me.
> 
> I’m also lucky that even in conditions that blow the water out of the Bay so 
> much that the fish are flopping around, that my boat is still floating.
> 
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit
> 
>> On Jul 11, 2014, at 9:40 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 7 foot draft would make the boat totally useless to me. 6 feet would be 
>> marginal at best.
>> I knew someone with a deep draft 40 and they chain-sawed the bottom of the 
>> keel off and bolted on a bulb from Mars Metal to bring the weight back to 
>> spec. At least back then the cost of doing this was well made up by the 
>> increased value of the boat for the Chesapeake and Mars would give you some 
>> credit if you sent them the lead you removed.
>>  
>> Joe Della Barba
>> j...@dellabarba.com
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel 
>> Aronson via CnC-List
>> Sent: Friday, July 11, 2014 9:30 AM
>> To: Stevan Plavsa; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats?
>>  
>> Steve,
>>  
>> As much as I love my 35/3, the 40 is a lot more boat for less money!  I 
>> would not let another 6 inches of draft stop me unless I planned to cruise 
>> the Bahamas.
>>  
>> Joel
>>  
>> 
>> On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 8:19 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> There was another 40 in CT that was asking 29k recently. Same tall rig and 
>> deep draft. It's gone. There are lots of these.
>>  
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
>>  
>>  
>> 
>> On Thu, Jul 10, 2014 at 6:02 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I sometimes pick up donated boats for the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum. 
>> Another volunteer and I just sailed an early '80's O'Day 30 across the Bay 
>> for the program. He was interested, because it has a centerboard and his 
>> mooring is in rather slim water.
>>  
>> His thoughts were: Old gear, old upholstery, only two self tailing winches, 
>> not four.. old instruments, etc. the boat was attractive and will go for 
>> low dollars. He was counting up the dollars to make it perfect and decided 
>> he wanted a boat with fewer issues to deal with.
>>  
>> I think these boats sit around for a long time because there are few folks 
>> like many on this list who are knowledgeable enough to look through the 
>> small faults and make an offer. My friend is skilled, but still wanted the 
>> 'perfect' boat with few issues for low money. Maybe he didn't want to have 
>> another project?
>>  
>> On the first one, the hailing port is interesting, as the boat is now in 
>> Maryland. The engine is small and has a lot of hours (almost 2000?), no self 
>> tailing winches, old (really) Moor instruments (if it breaks, buy new).
>>  
>> The other one looks better, is a lot more money for an old boat - and seven 
>> feet is a non-starter around here.
>>  
>> Gary
>> still happy with the 30-1
>> - Original Message -
>> From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2014 4:55 PM
>> Subject: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats?
>>  
>> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1974/C%26C-MK-II-2367894/Cambridge/MD/United-States
>>  
>> This looks like a nice MK II and has been for sale for a long time.
>> My guess is the sticking point is the engine. It has a Westebeke 4-60 
>> engine, which is a 15 HP diesel derived from a 984 cc MG Midget engine. I 
>> had an MG Midget and all I have to say to th

Re: Stus-List Genoa/Jib Sheet diameter on a 30-1, 7/16 or 1/2"?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The genoa sheets for my 38 are 7/16ths. I use a "fuzzy" double braid that I 
bought from Cajun Rope in Canada. Strength somewhere between StaSet and 
StaSetX, but a really soft hand that is nice on the hands. 

On my 25 I use 3/8ths line of the same material. 5/16ths line is just too small 
to be comfortable.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 16, 2014, at 11:56, Nate Flesness via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replacing the 135% furling genoa sheets on a 30-1 used only for cruising. 
> Have had 1/2". The admiral likes the solid red and green colors available for 
> Samson Trophy Braid but for some reason they only offer those color options 
> up to 7/16". At 1/2" they switch to flecked white. Any experience with the 
> 7/16" trophy braid re soft on not so young hands?
> 
> Nate
> "Sarah Jean"
> 1980 30-1
> Siskiwit Bay Marina
> Lake Superior
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Set up of shower in Cockpit

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Question 1 is whether your engine is raw water cooled or fresh water cooled. 
Raw water cooling means water from outside the boat is clumped through the 
engine block for cooling, then mixed with the exhaust to cool that, then 
expelled back into the lake. If your engine is raw water cooled, the thermostat 
is probably 160-165 degrees so it may be too hot for your project, and 
diverting cooling water away from the exhaust may cause the hoses to melt.

If your engine is fresh water cooled, there is antifreeze in the engine, which 
is probably routed to the heating coil on your hot water heater and then to a 
heat exchanger (which is sort of like a water-to-water version of the radiator 
in your car) where it is cooled by contact with water drawn in from outside the 
boat. After taking the heat from the engine coolant the outside water is mixed 
with exhaust gasses to cool them and then expelled overboard. The raw water out 
of the heat exchanger is probably 110-120 degrees, but you would not want to 
overheat the exhaust.

Your best bet would be to purchase a cockpit shower kit with a mixing valve and 
then plumb it to draw cool water from your water tank and hot water from the 
water heater. Your problem the would be how much fresh water your tanks can 
hold and how long a shower you intend to take.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 21, 2014, at 10:14, George Cone via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I wanted to run a thought by the list to see if my thoughts to install a 
> small handheld shower in the back of the cockpit for rinse of and showering 
> at the area of the wheel are feasible. My positive reasons for this is extra 
> room and ease of draining and overall cleaning. I am considering connecting 
> to the input hot water line before it enters the water heater coming from the 
> engine. The boat is on fresh water , hence I would have unlimited volume of 
> water available, I assume the water would be pure and clean even though it 
> has gone through the engine cooling (heating) system, I also assume the 
> temperature of the water to only be in the 110 degree level at best, and 
> there is a recirculating pump (that normally recirculates the water from the 
> engine through the heat exchanger) that can power the water to the shower 
> wand.  So where is my thinking flawed?
>  
> Thanks,
> George Cone
> C&C 40
> Vermont
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List FULLER BRUSH PORT FREE TO A GOOD HOME

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

A few months ago there was a discussion about the Fuller Brush ports on many of 
our boats. I've finally gotten around to replacing the 5x12 opening port in the 
head of my 38 with a new Beckson port that has drain spouts, designed for 
installation in sloped sides of the cabin. Hopefully that will end the splash 
collected rainwater into the head each time I open the port.

The old Fuller Brush port is available to anyone who needs it for parts. The 
opening lens is crazed after 38 years of UV exposure. But the frame , seal, and 
trim ring are Ok. Screen is missing. I didn't mind the crazed lens so much 
because it was sort of like a translucent shower door and made a little privacy 
when tied alongside a dock in a Marina.

Contact me off list and I can mail the old port to you.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Joker valve war / Head reliability

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I'm surprised at the need to rebuild two or three times per year. The head ate 
in my 38 has just been rebuilt for the second time in the 11 years I've owned 
her.

This rebuild was because the piston seal was worn, and the pump would loose 
prime and operate slowly. When I installed the new service kit ( which was 
close to $85) I found out that the pump housing was leaking because of a couple 
of cracks in the lands where the screws go to hold the pump pieces together - 
so there was not sufficient force to make a good seal. 

I installed a new complete pump assembly from the boat spares ( I had picked 
one up from some former cruisers at a nautical yard sail ), but when I went to 
order a new pump housing for spares I found it to be NLA, and the complete 
valve is almost $200. That's more that a new Raritan head.

So I guess I'll get another 4 or 5 years out of the current valve and one 
rebuild kit I have on the boat. And the I will plan on installing a new head.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 31, 2014, at 11:35, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Rebuilding heads seems to be a popular activity at this time of year; I 
> replaced all valves in my Headmate head last weekend.  It's not a bad job, 
> but I always remember why I bought the stubby Phillips #2 screwdriver when I 
> do it.  The previous weekend I dumped four gallons of vinegar into the system 
> to clear scale off.  It worked for the joker valve, but I was still having 
> issues with the pump losing prime and not drying easily without holding the 
> valve leaver down.  Once apart, it was pretty obvious why - the metal backing 
> washer from one of the inlet valve had corroded off the rubber piece, and 
> while I was there I just changed all the parts that were in the service kit.
> 
> Joker valves seem to be common across head designs, and a necessary evil, but 
> I am fed up with having to rebuild the pump on the Headmate once or twice a 
> year, so am planning to replace it this winter.  Can anyone share experiences 
> with their heads (ours gets very light use, strictly no solids)?  I am 
> considering the Jabsco Twist n Lock or the Raritan PHC.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tim
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Jul 30, 2014 at 10:23 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I finally swapped out the joker valve in Touche's head because it was 
>> leaking back.  Didn't leak much.  Just some of the water between the bowl 
>> and the anti-siphon loop.   
>> 
>> As usual, it had become scaled up.  I threw the old one in some vinegar and 
>> most of the scale dissolved but the rubber was so distorted it was dumpster 
>> material.
>> 
>> I coated the new joker valve with TefGel hoping to get more life out of it.  
>> I think Peggy Hall, the head mistress recommends Super Lube for heads.  
>> 
>> Also, I read that throwing some vinegar in the head routinely minimizes 
>> scale build up.
>> 
>> This really isn't a big thing for me.  I get the valves wholesale for under 
>> $10 and changing one is only a 10 minute job.  But I'd sure like to skip it 
>> altogether.
>> 
>> Any other tricks?
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Proper Process for Head Pump Out + reducing head odors

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Sent from my iPad

> Pumping free ash water through the head wil help clear the joker valve and 
> any effluent in the hose to the tank. But the flow from the head comes into 
> the tank at the top.

Any sludge left in the tank after the pump out will be in the bottom inch or so 
of the tank, which never gets completely emptied during a pump out. If the boat 
sits for a while after the pump out, the water will evaporate and leave a thick 
sludge.

Fresh water squirted into the tank from a dock hose through the pump out hose 
will enter at the bottom of the tank, is under a bit of pressure, and the flow 
rate is much higher. It should do a better job OD stirring up the sludge, 
though it will not clear the joker valve and lines.

A few gallons squirted in should help remove the sludge, then pump the tank a 
second time. This will help minimize the sludge.

Another good idea, if you boat has been sitting a while with an empty tank, is 
to put 4 or 5 gallons of dockside water in through the pump out fitting and go 
for a day sail. That should stir up the sludge. Then add more water and pump 
out at the end of your day sail.

Or you could install an Lectra-San, and you might never need to pump out again.

Rick Brass
Part time dock master and pump out operator, among other things


> 
>> On Jul 31, 2014, at 9:06 PM, Indigo via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> The pump out boat operator in Edgartown MA advised partly refilling the 
>> holding tank by pumping in fresh water via the head and then pumping out. 
>> Said this stirs up any solids lying at the bottom of the tank.  Better than 
>> refilling the tank with fresh water via the deck fitting - which I had been 
>> doing. 
>> 
>> --
>> Jonathan
>> Indigo C&C 35III
>> SOUTHPORT CT
>> 
>>> On Jul 31, 2014, at 19:50, dwight via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Jake
>>> That’s a lot of pumpin
>>>  
>>> Dwight Veinot
>>> C&C 35MKII, Alianna
>>> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>>>  
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jake 
>>> Brodersen via CnC-List
>>> Sent: July 31, 2014 7:31 PM
>>> To: 'Raymond Macklin'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Process for Head Pump Out + reducing head 
>>> odors
>>>  
>>> Ray,
>>>  
>>> After I pump out, I partially fill the holding tank with water and pump it 
>>> out again.  Hopefully this will reduce the amount of material inside the 
>>> tank which might lead to odors.  Others may have more effective procedures.
>>>  
>>> Jake
>>>  
>>> Jake Brodersen
>>> “Midnight Mistress”
>>> C&C 35 Mk-III
>>> Hampton VA
>>>  
>>>  
>>>  
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Raymond 
>>> Macklin via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 12:52 PM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Subject: Stus-List Proper Process for Head Pump Out
>>>  
>>> Is there is a recognized process to pump out the head to avoid lingering 
>>> odors.  I have heard people will run a hose at the same time as they are 
>>> pumping it out.  Anything that can help would be greatly appreciated.
>>> 
>>> Ray
>>> LakeHouse
>>> Libertyville, IL
>>> No virus found in this message.
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>> Version: 2014.0.4716 / Virus Database: 3986/7932 - Release Date: 07/27/14
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>>> page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Replacing the Head -- Jabsco Lite Flush?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

$701Us plus freight seems expensive, given the West Marine has the same head in 
their catalog for $579.

The complete Jabsco electric head you have, for comparison, it $449 at WM.

I notice from the specs that the head you have draws 16 amps. The Jabsco Lite 
draws 25. The controlled water usage implies some sort of timer on the motor, 
which may be an additional source of maintenance needs. Parts should be 
available since WM sells the head.

My experience with the Jabsco electric head on my 25 was that the motor had to 
be replaced after about 12 years, when it failed because of a leaky seal 
between motor and pump. YMMV.

You might want to look at the Jabsco Quiet Flush in the WM catalog. $10 more 
than the Lite and only draws 10 amps.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 1, 2014, at 12:04, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
>   Not to bring up a s#*tty subject, but has anyone tried replacing their 
> head with a Jabsco Lite Flush? 
> http://www.jabscoshop.com/marine/marine-toilets/toilets/electric-toilets/58500-1012-lite-flush-12v-with-panel.htm
>  
> 
>   I’d love to know what you think (positives and negatives)
> 
>   I currently have a Jabsco manual with an electric conversion on it, 
> which is terribly noisy and uses a lot of juice each time it flushes. And, 
> I’ve heard the electric pump wears out every few years. This one, they say, 
> is MUCH quieter and, best of all, fits the same footprint as the manual 
> heads. 
> 
> 
>   All the best,
> 
>   Edd
> 
> 
>   Edd M. Schillay
>   Starship Enterprise
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>   City Island, NY 
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Note to self: Don't get work done on the boat in Chesapeake Bay.

Re $5k for cushions, I just had all the cushions done on my 38. Two v berth 
cushions plus the filler, two settee cushions plus four seat backs and four arm 
cushions, quarter berth cushion, and assorted bolster cushions and pillows for 
lounging, reading, and propping up in the v berth. Bought the new foam, 
batting, upholstery fabric, etc myself at a store in New Bern that specialized 
in upholstery stuff. It is all synthetic material to resist mildew, and came 
with some sort of scotch guard coating. Total about $1100.

Took it all to a local upholstery shop (one that doesn't specialize in boats. 
Cost to have cushions done was a bit over $1400.

I got a quote last year on painting the hull only. $100 a foot, $150 a foot 
using Algrip. Haul and remove the rig so the boat can be put in the paint shed 
about $600 additional.

Joe, sounds like you might need to plan a vacation in North Carolina.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 1, 2014, at 10:31, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> You must be *extraordinarily* good at doing work on the cheap. My boat could 
> really use new sails, topside paint, and new cushions. The cost of that 
> exceeds the market value of the boat. I did rewire my boat and that cost a 
> good chunk of your proverbial $4K doing all the work myself. I have been 
> quoted around $10K to paint the boat and over $5K to do interior cushions. I 
> am not trying to be a Richard Cranium – I love the fact an old C&C has found 
> a loving home – but I don’t see the finances working the way you think. I 
> have seen again and again that once you start taking things apart you find 
> more and more things to work on. Good luck – I am anxious to hear how you get 
> topsides and interior done so far under the going rate because I need it too. 
> I am pretty good at A4 scrounging if you need advice with that.
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
> C&C 35 MK I
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt 
> Stratton via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, August 01, 2014 9:32 AM
> To: 'Petar Horvatic'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List big $$$ used C&C
>  
> Respectfully, that all depends on what you paid for the boat. I am happily 
> renewing my 1974 33 foot 3/4ton without breaking the bank and I am virtually 
> certain the value of the boat will increase beyond the money I am spending. 
> Like anything, if you buy right and have some talent you have opportunity to 
> invest a bit without worrying about losing your hard earned $$. I paid almost 
> nothing for a complete and solid yet neglected hull with a very nice rig. 
> Replacing all the windows and hatch lenses with polycarbonate cost less than 
> $600. Renewing the interior will cost me some stripping supplies, varnish and 
> paint. The cushion covers will be the biggest expense. Next year the hull and 
> deck will get a new paint job. I will also completely re-wire both AC and DC 
> systems. When I am done it will be very pretty and comfortable I will be into 
> it for about $4k total, including the purchase of the boat….. (I do the bulk 
> of the work myself) I am not including the normal cost of owning and using a 
> boat.
>  
> Now if I start doing things like a new diesel, radar, etc, it would quickly 
> become a losing proposition but I like the A-4. I am on the lookout for a 
> used radar/chartplotter in case anyone comes across something tempting..  
>  
> Peter, we will with any luck be in Newport sometime later this month for a 
> well-earned weekend on the hook. I’ll keep an eye out for the Sundowner.
>  
> Ship
> C&C 33 3/4ton
> Portsmouth, RI
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar 
> Horvatic via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, August 01, 2014 9:06 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; 'Ebay'
> Subject: Re: Stus-List big $$$ used C&C
>  
> You never get back  the money you put upgrading a used sailboat.  That will 
> never sell at that price.  It’s a balsa cored production sailboat.  Not a 
> Hinckley or Alden.  On the other hand, note to myself don’t look for used 
> sailboats in the Bay area. 
>  
> Petar Horvatic
> Sundowner
> 76 C&C 38MkII
> Newport, RI
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 11:54 PM
> To: Ebay; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
> Subject: Re: Stus-List big $$$ used C&C
>  
> Wow!  A fully tweaked C&C 43.  Beautiful lines.  Sweet sheerline and love how 
> the cabintop blends into the foredeck.  Great upgrades.  First class job, but 
> I don't think they'll get half of what they are asking.There are so many 
> other choices on the market for less than $175K.
>  
>  
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>  
> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
> To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
> Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 9:46:36 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List big

Re: Stus-List 3/4 ton rehab

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Practical Sailor did a review of topside paints a few years ago. Considered 
shine, ease of application, durability, UV resistance over a couple of years.

Two part paints like Algrip were rated best, but the Rustoleum Marine paints 
matched the performance of the best one part marine finished like Brightside, 
and only cost 1/4 as much. It was by far the best buy recommendation in the 
test.

I sprayed my Tanzer 16 sailing dinghy with Rustoleum marine enamel bought at 
Lowes. Primer inside and out, two different colors for hull and inside, and the 
non-skid addative for inside the hull (Rustoleum supplies that too) cost about 
$40 total. And I am totally happy with the result and the durability.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 1, 2014, at 11:08, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
>  I found out Rust-Oleum (yes those guys) make marine paint at something like 
> ½-1/4 the price of the “marine” brands that apparently works well when 
> brushed on. I am going to try it on a cockpit hatch and see how it goes. 
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
> C&C 35 MK I
> 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Replacing Rub Rail - Landfall 35

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

My rub rail was damaged in a collision some years ago. It is an integral part 
of the hull to deck seal, and riveted to the flange of the hull. So removing or 
replacing it involved lifting the entire deck off the hull by about 6" to get 
space to remove the rivets. Plus all the wiring connections and hose fittings 
would need to be undone/redone in the process.

Instead we removed the rubber outboard of the top sides with a Sawzall and 
installed a 1" x 4" rub rail made of Starboard-like material and capped with a 
stainless half oval. Now I have a substantial rub rail that is actually wider 
than the tumblehome of the hull. Cost about $6k IIRC, but paid by the other 
guys insurance and less than half the quote to replace the rub rail.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 5, 2014, at 20:55, JAMES LEMESURIER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>  
>  
> Thanks for your comment Mr. Bryant. I think you are correct about the 
> rub-rail being part of the deck-hull joint.  But I wonder if there is a 
> cosmetic solution - ie. installing a concave replacement over the existing 
> one.  Has anyone tried anything like this?
>  
> James LeMesurier
> Landfall 35 - SISU
> Saint John, NB Canada
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Alcohol stove

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Denatured alcohol is all I've ever used in the stove on the 38 or the Origo 
stove on the 25. About once a year I go to Lowes and buy a gallon can.

And one of these days I'll finally get around to installing the new propane 
stove I bought for the 38 a couple of years ago. I'm told it is easier to find 
propane than denatured alcohol when you are in the Bahamas or the Caribbean.

Rick Brass


Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 11, 2014, at 10:36, Burt Stratton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> This my first go-around with alcohol stoves. Seems to work very nicely. 
> Cleaned it up filled it and brewed a big pot of coffee in no time. Is there 
> any reason not to use plain old denatured alcohol instead of stove cooking 
> fuel?
>  
> Skip
>  
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Petar;

 

If I recall correctly, it is about 3/8” – perhaps ½”

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of phorvati . 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, September 26, 2015 8:01 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Cc: phorvati . 
Subject: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

 

Does anyone know what the thickness of balsa core is along the geona track 
section of deck on 1976 C&C 38 Mk2

Petar

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Bow Thrusters

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Is it called a Yacht Thruster? I was talking to a cruiser on my docks who had 
installed one on his Crealock 37. He seemed pleased. I thought it sort of 
pricey, but I suppose it is still a lot less expensive then a tube across the 
hull under the v berth. He didn’t say anything about a speed penalty, but then 
he is a cruiser and the boat is a Pacific Seacraft 37.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2015 9:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: Stus-List Bow Thrusters

 

Listers,

 

Was at the Norwalk Boat Show yesterday and there was a bow thruster company 
there which had a product that looked interesting. It was a bow thruster "pod" 
that mounts under the hull (as opposed to a tunnel thruster that goes through 
the hull). 

 

Easier install, can run 5 minutes nonstop without overheating, wireless 
control, etc. 

 

Is anyone using one of these types? Any disadvantages? I guess my biggest 
concern is the drag factor -- will it cost me a half knot or more? 

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

---

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

NCC-1701-B

C&C 37+ | City Island, NY

www.StarshipSailing.com  

---

914.332.4400  | Office

914.774.9767  | Mobile

---

Sent via iPhone 6

iPhone. iTypos. iApologize

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Rigid vang

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

If you are unable to get proper luff tension when raising the main, and you
suspect the cause may be the tension on the leach of the sail, then the
problem is most likely that you have not loosened the mainsheet (or vang if
you have one) sufficiently before raising the sail. The weight of the boom
shouldn't be a problem.

 

As Dennis pointed out, the topping lift causes a lot of wear on the leach of
the main. And as Lee pointed out, it's major effect when sailing is to
negate any adjustments you do make to the mainsheet and vang, and to screw
up tacks in light air. On my 25 (where the end of the boom is only about 2
feet ahead of the backstay) the topping lift spent probably a third of its
life wrapped around the backstay and giving me fits. I was really glad to
get rid of the verdamte thing.

 

Josh said the topping lift might be useful to let the main twist off when
slightly overcanvassed. You can accomplish the same thing by slightly
loosening the mainsheet or the vang (if you have one); the pressure of the
wind will  increase the twist. Conversely, if you want to flatten the leach
while not hard on the wind, tightening the mainsheet will pull in on the
boom while it pulls down on the leach - which may not be optimal. The vang
will control the leach tension independent of boom position, so you can use
sheet and traveler to adjust the position of the boom.

 

When reefing, releasing the rigid vang will raise the end of the boom ( and
you won't need to stand on the cabin top or side of the cockpit to do the
adjustment). And when you are done setting the reef, a pull on the vang will
tighten up the leach and adjust the twist of the sail.

 

I have Garhauer rigid vangs on both my boats, and no topping lifts. Main
halyard gets attached to the end of the boom and snugged against the vang
when the sail is down to stop halyard slap and to keep the boom from rocking
side to side. I am a very happy camper.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark
Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2015 10:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid vang

 


Realized that I made an error - I was not referring to the leach, I actually
meant the luff (sorry - my nautical terms are not.
Sail is hard to hoist fully to get the luff tight.  Maybe if I raised the
boom with the topping lift it would be easier to fully hoist -- which would
then mean I would need to go back and loosen the topping lift every time.
I'll have to play with it a bit.
Same I guess when I reef - raising the boom with the topping lift would make
it easier to snug down the reef point.  The rigid vang would save the extra
step.

Thanks for all the info.  I'm tempted to go with the Garhauer rigid vang,
get rid of my topping lift completely - but I'll need to decide if that
makes it to the top of my list or not.

Mark




 
 
There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2015-09-29 7:38 PM, Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List wrote:

I have a Garhauer ridgid vang as well.  Love it to death.  I eliminated my
topping lift all together with it.  When I'm at the
dock, I take the main halyard off and attach it to where the topping lift
used to be to snug up.  Keeps halyard from slapping the
mast and keeps the rigid vang from making spring noises as the boat bounces
a bit.

If you keep your topping lift, you need the ability to slack it off quite a
bit so your mainsheet can pull down as much as the 
sail will allow...

-- 
Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax

   




-Original Message- From: Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2015 5:33 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   
Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar 
Subject: Stus-List Rigid vang 


Thinking about projects for the boat. 
I definitely need a new main sheet system - and expect I'll go with 
Marek's Garhauer suggestion.  But that then raises the idea of a rigid 
boom vang - If I'm going to buy one in the near future it's better to 
combine shipping. 
I'm not racing, and rarely use the existing vang (except for downwind to 
hold down the boom).  Currently boat is set up with a topping lift 
(which need to be replaced due to wear) 

I never adjust my topping lift - I have it set so it's slack when the 
sail is fully hoisted, and then when the sail is dropped it comes taut a 
few inches lower (maybe that's why I have a hard time getting the leach 
tight - easier if if I tightened up the topping lift before hoisting?). 

Any thoughts?  I've never used a rigid vang.  People happy with them? 
Given I don't adjust the topping lift I'm not seeing a big time savings 
- but maybe I should be adjusting it more? 

Mark 



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. 
  - George Santayana 


_

Re: Stus-List IPad Question...

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I have an IPad 3 which was a gift. It has cellular capability (so it has a 
built in GPS), but has never been connected to cellular service. The GPS 
function operates perfectly below decks and everywhere else. I have never had a 
problem receiving GPS data, even inside my house which has a metal roof. I 
can’t say the same for the handheld GPSs (multiple) that I carry on the boat as 
backups for the ditch bag.

 

I have SKIPPER on the IPad for a navigation app. (Selected that one because of 
a desire for Bermuda charts when I was loading the IPad, and Bermuda region is 
included as part of North America so there was no cost.) Skipper uses NOAA 
charts, and the app checks for NOAA updates to the charts that have been 
downloaded to the tablet each time the app is turned on while connected to 
WiFi. On the last two deliveries I made, I found that my charts were more up to 
date than the charts on the boat’s chartplotter. Plus I run the Active Captain 
Companion on the IPad, which gives warnings about hazards to navigation that 
are within a specified angle and distance from the boat’s heading. One of the 
Raymarine plotters on a boat offered this feature, but the charts were out of 
date. The tablet was more accurate.

 

If you are getting your AIS information off the net, you should be aware of a 
couple of things: The information is not current, not all AIS information is 
included, and the AIS repeaters on the Internet have the capability of being 
hacked. 

 

I seem to recall that a number of manufacturers are making instruments and 
radios that can be connected to tablets and phones by using Bluetooth. Why not 
just use the Bluetooth connection instead of building a WiFi network on the 
boat?

 

My IPad was a gift, so it cost me nothing. I agree with Dennis. A WATERPROOF 
and shock resistant Galaxy tablet is a bit more than $250, but still less than 
half the cost of an IPad. Plus the software is generally less expensive. I have 
more invested in the Otter Box and LifePruf cases for my IPad than a galaxy 
tablet would have cost me.

 

But the discussion started with David’s question about using an old IPad for a 
plotter. If the IPad had cellular capability (so it has a GPS) go for it. You 
will spend something up to $50 (and maybe less) on chart plotter software and 
charts, and most of the other navigation apps you will want like Active Captain 
and Drag Queen are free. If no built in GPS, put your music on the IPad and buy 
a Galaxy tablet with cellular capability.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jerome 
Tauber via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 02, 2015 11:27 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jerome Tauber 
Subject: Re: Stus-List IPad Question...

 

GPS built into phones and pads is limited and depends on cellular service being 
available.  Moreover, reception below decks is poor to non-existent.   Also, 
with wifi you can transmit AIS and any other NMEA info such as wind speed, 
depth, and even radar.It's a different ballgame entirely.   You can even 
receive on multiple Pads and from anywhere on the boat.   Your Ipad or Android 
becomes a complete navigation system using an app such as INavx and is 
available anywhere on the boat.  Of course, you must have nmea sensors to plug 
into the wifi router.   Jerry J&J 

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Sent: Fri, Oct 2, 2015 11:17 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List IPad Question...

or you can buy a 10" Samsung Galaxy Tab with GPS for $250.  Add Navionics for 
$10.  Poof!  Chartplotter.

Dennis C.

 

On Fri, Oct 2, 2015 at 10:08 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I have been looking into this and there is an excellent solution.   You can 
plug your onboard GPS into a wifi transmitter and receive the signal anywhere 
on your boat on your Ipad.   This is compatible with INavx and other software.  
 You can also transmit AIS if you have an AIS receiver and receive it on the 
Ipad (or any Android device) through INavx or other software.   This is the 
future of onboard navigation.   Here are some transmitters though there are 
many others.   Jerry - J&J


 




 

 


 



 


 

 


 

 Digital Yacht NavLink NMEA 200 Wireless Data Server 


by  

Re: Stus-List IPad Question...

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The IPad needs to have cellular capability, which means it has an on board GPS. 
That does not mean that you need a cellular contract, nor that you need to even 
enable the cellular connection under the GENERAL section of the SETTINGS 
screen. Mine has always been turned off, yet the GPS works just fine. 

 

Rick Brass

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 02, 2015 11:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List IPad Question...

 

Joe,

 

That's right, but iPads need to be cellular enabled to get GPS info because 
they use the cellular antenna.  WiFi only does not do the job.

 

Joel

 

On Fri, Oct 2, 2015 at 11:28 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

My iPhone does not need cell service for the GPS to work.

Joe

Coquina

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
 ] On Behalf Of Jerome Tauber via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 02, 2015 11:27 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Jerome Tauber


Subject: Re: Stus-List IPad Question...

 

GPS built into phones and pads is limited and depends on cellular service being 
available.  Moreover, reception below decks is poor to non-existent.   Also, 
with wifi you can transmit AIS and any other NMEA info such as wind speed, 
depth, and even radar.It's a different ballgame entirely.   You can even 
receive on multiple Pads and from anywhere on the boat.   Your Ipad or Android 
becomes a complete navigation system using an app such as INavx and is 
available anywhere on the boat.  Of course, you must have nmea sensors to plug 
into the wifi router.   Jerry J&J 

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com> >
Sent: Fri, Oct 2, 2015 11:17 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List IPad Question...

or you can buy a 10" Samsung Galaxy Tab with GPS for $250.  Add Navionics for 
$10.  Poof!  Chartplotter.

Dennis C.

 

On Fri, Oct 2, 2015 at 10:08 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I have been looking into this and there is an excellent solution.   You can 
plug your onboard GPS into a wifi transmitter and receive the signal anywhere 
on your boat on your Ipad.   This is compatible with INavx and other software.  
 You can also transmit AIS if you have an AIS receiver and receive it on the 
Ipad (or any Android device) through INavx or other software.   This is the 
future of onboard navigation.   Here are some transmitters though there are 
many others.   Jerry - J&J


 

 


 

 


 



 


 

 


 

 Digital Yacht NavLink NMEA 200 Wireless Data Server 


by  

 Digital Yacht 


 


List Price: $833.92 


Price: $495.77 


You Save: $338.15 (41%) 


Ships from and sold by  

 OJ Commerce. 

 

 

 

 

 


 


 


 

 


 


 

Re: Stus-List IPad Question...

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Office Depot has a Lenovo 10" android tablet at a regular price of about
$115. The 7" is about $89. Look for a sale, Christmas is coming.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 02, 2015 12:04 PM
To: CNC CNC 
Cc: David 
Subject: Re: Stus-List IPad Question...

 

Now that is a viable solution... Does one obtain a "vanilla" Android tablet
from E-Bay or ?

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



  _  

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2015 11:34:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List IPad Question...
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: gc...@alpinesy.com

Or you can get a vanilla android tablet for $80- $100 that has built in GPS
and do the same thing and not worry if it gets wet.

Thanks,

George

C&C 40

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 02, 2015 11:18 AM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List IPad Question...

 

or you can buy a 10" Samsung Galaxy Tab with GPS for $250.  Add Navionics
for $10.  Poof!  Chartplotter.

Dennis C.

 

On Fri, Oct 2, 2015 at 10:08 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I have been looking into this and there is an excellent solution.   You can
plug your onboard GPS into a wifi transmitter and receive the signal
anywhere on your boat on your Ipad.   This is compatible with INavx and
other software.   You can also transmit AIS if you have an AIS receiver and
receive it on the Ipad (or any Android device) through INavx or other
software.   This is the future of onboard navigation.   Here are some
transmitters though there are many others.   Jerry - J&J


 

 


 

 


 



 


 
 


 
 Digital Yacht NavLink NMEA 200 Wireless Data Server 


by
 Digital Yacht 


 


List Price: $833.92 


Price: $495.77 


You Save: $338.15 (41%) 


Ships from and sold by
 OJ Commerce. 

 
 

 

 
 


 


 


 

 


 


 
 


 
 Digital Yacht NMEA to Wireless Wi-Fi Adapter - 4800
Baud 


by
 Digital Yacht 


 


List Price: $458.92 


Price: $280.37 


You Save: $178.55 (39%) 


Ships from and sold by

Re: Stus-List IPad Question...

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

My IPad has worked between the east coast and Bermuda. GPS no problem. The real 
problem is keeping the battery charged.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jerome 
Tauber via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 02, 2015 6:04 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jerome Tauber 
Subject: Re: Stus-List IPad Question...

 

It works well below deck when you are in cell range.  How does it work below 
deck with just a GPS signal offshore?  I don't want to belabor the point.  Jerry

Sent from my iPhone


On Oct 2, 2015, at 4:36 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi Jerome
I must disagree with that statement.  My sony tablet with built in GPS works 
perfectly below decks, it is what I use for anchor watch.



Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-02 12:42 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List wrote:

Joe - that is a common misunderstanding.  While the Iphone does not need cell 
service for positioning it actually does use cell tower triangulation for 
position and is not very accurate or fast without it.   Moreover, if you are 
below deck you will not get an adequate GPS signal.  This is from the internet.


MotionX-GPS


Does MotionX-GPS require a cellular network?


The iPhone 5, 4S, 4, 3GS and 3G use an A-GPS (Assisted-GPS) chipset which uses 
cell tower triangulation to speed up GPS signal acquisition. Cellular coverage 
is not needed to acquire a signal, however the signal acquisition will be much 
quicker if you have data coverage. 

Without data services, it can take 15 minutes or longer to acquire a signal. 
This is simply because it takes longer to determine which satellites to use out 
of the 31 available around the world. With data services, it typically takes 
under a minute, but it can take up to 5 minutes. 

 


How the iPhone knows where you are 


By Glenn Fleishman  , Macworld

iPhone users' experience with GPS is so quick, so instant-on, that Apple's 
Wednesday response about location tracking on iOS 

  might almost seem baffling:

Calculating a phone’s location using just GPS satellite data can take up to 
several minutes. iPhone can reduce this time to just a few seconds by using 
Wi-Fi hotspot and cell tower data to quickly find GPS satellites.

Several minutes? Doesn't my iPhone take just seconds to figure out where I am?

Well, yes… but only when it engages in a set of tricks to avoid a lengthy 
process that was de rigueur when GPS receivers first appeared. In simplifying 
matters, Apple’s not being entirely accurate about how this all works and what 
it's doing. So let me explain where Wi-Fi and cell phone towers fit into the 
equation.


12.5 minutes to locate


Early GPS receivers took 12.5 minutes from a cold start to obtain a lock; later 
locks in the same region could still take minutes. If you turned a GPS receiver 
off for a few weeks or moved it more than a few hundred miles, a cold start 
might be required again.

GPS relies on two factors to create a set of accurate coordinates for where 
you’re standing: time and space. GPS satellites broadcast precise time signals 
using a built-in atomic clock along with their current location. They also 
broadcast the location of all other satellites in the sky, called the almanac.

Every 30 seconds, a GPS satellite broadcasts a time stamp, its current location 
and some less precise location information for other GPS satellites. It takes 
25 of these broadcasts (thus, 12.5 minutes) to obtain the full list of 
satellite locations. This information has to be decoded for a receiver to then 
properly interpret signals from the satellites that are within range.

If you know the position of four satellites and the time at which each sent 
their position information, you—or, rather, your GPS receiver—can calculate to 
within 10 meters the latitude, longitude, and elevation of your current 
location along with the exact current time. With three satellites, you lose 
elevation, but a device can still track movement fairly accurately. Standalone 
GPS receivers can lock in simultaneously on multiple satellites, and track more 
than four. Other techniques can improve accuracy, too.

But, heck, I don’t have 12.5 minutes. I’m a busy man! Give me that location 
faster!


Giving GPS an assist


So GPS chip and gear makers came up with a host of ways to shorten the wait, 
called Assisted GPS (AGPS). Instead of relying on live downloads of position 
data from satellites, future locations can be estimated accurately enough to 
figure out rough satellite positions, and get a fix at which point even more 
up-to-date information is retrieved. These estimates can be downloaded via a 
network connection in seconds or even calculated right on a device.

The current time can also be used as a clue. With a precise current time,

Re: Stus-List Rigid vang

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

A Boomkicker from Defender is something like $228 or $275, depending on
whether you get the 45" or 53" length. One if or boats up to 30' and the
other is for 30' to 34' or some such. It comes with the brackets you mount
on mast and boom to attach the ends. It only lifts the boom so you still
need a soft vang - one strong enough to overcome the force generated by the
boomkicker in addition to the force needed to tension the sail.

 

>From Garhauer, the 12:1 rigid vang I have on my 25 is $275. The 18:1 on my
38 is $435. And the RV6 aluminum vang is priced in between those. Brackets
for mast and boom custom made for your boat are included.

 

You already have a soft vang. The old one on my 38 was a 4:1 that I have
repurposed for use as a preventer. The higher mechanical advantage of the
12:1 or 18:1 has a benefit when flattening the leach of the sail upwind in
high winds. And of course the vang controls the height of the boom, so the
mainsheet and traveler can be used to change the angle of attack of the sail
without changing the sail shape.

 

The first advantage of either the rigid vang or boomkicker is to support the
boom and eliminate the topping lift. Which means eliminating the hang-ups,
adjustments and chafe of a topping lift. 

 

The second advantage is that easing the vang in heavy air or downwind raises
the boom and opens the leach of the sail to spill wind, or to give you a
fuller sail shape when running. You can accomplish the same thing by easing
the soft vang and raising the topping lift. But that isn't always convenient
(or possible) when reaching or running unless you have rigged the topping
lift to be adjusted from the cockpit.

 

I have a slight prejudice against the boomkicker because I have seen two
instances when the upper end of the fiberglass rod became detached from the
bracket on the boom. That may have been an incorrect installation, or pilot
error. One skipper told me they let the boom get too high during a gybe and
the rod just came out of the bracket - but I suspect there may have been
more to the story.  Anyway, with the boomkicker not connected, the boom and
mainsail comes down into the cockpit when you lower the sail which is
neither convenient nor particularly safe.

 

I think Gary reported in an earlier post that he has experienced problems
with a boomkicker on a J boat on which he races. Perhaps he will refresh our
memories?

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of allen via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 05, 2015 11:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: allen 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid vang

 

I already have a multi part soft vang.  What's the cost and performance
benefits of going to a boom kicker vs a solid vang?

 

Allen Miles

Septima C&C 30-2

Hampton, VA

 

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  

Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2015 9:22 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  

Cc: Rick Brass <mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net>  

Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid vang

 

If you are unable to get proper luff tension when raising the main, and you
suspect the cause may be the tension on the leach of the sail, then the
problem is most likely that you have not loosened the mainsheet (or vang if
you have one) sufficiently before raising the sail. The weight of the boom
shouldn't be a problem.

 

As Dennis pointed out, the topping lift causes a lot of wear on the leach of
the main. And as Lee pointed out, it's major effect when sailing is to
negate any adjustments you do make to the mainsheet and vang, and to screw
up tacks in light air. On my 25 (where the end of the boom is only about 2
feet ahead of the backstay) the topping lift spent probably a third of its
life wrapped around the backstay and giving me fits. I was really glad to
get rid of the verdamte thing.

 

Josh said the topping lift might be useful to let the main twist off when
slightly overcanvassed. You can accomplish the same thing by slightly
loosening the mainsheet or the vang (if you have one); the pressure of the
wind will  increase the twist. Conversely, if you want to flatten the leach
while not hard on the wind, tightening the mainsheet will pull in on the
boom while it pulls down on the leach - which may not be optimal. The vang
will control the leach tension independent of boom position, so you can use
sheet and traveler to adjust the position of the boom.

 

When reefing, releasing the rigid vang will raise the end of the boom ( and
you won't need to stand on the cabin top or side of the cockpit to do the
adjustment). And when you are done setting the reef, a pull on the vang will
tighten up the leach and adjust the twist of the sail.

 

I have Garhauer rigid vangs on both my boats, and no topping lifts. Main
halyard gets attached to the end of the boom and snugged against the vang
when the sail is down to st

Stus-List Photo album ads & other stuff

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Stu, I'd appreciate contacting Mark Janda as well. James' message prompted
me to look at the Photo Album ads for the first time in a while, and I see a
couple of items for my 38 that I could probably use. I tore up my RF 140 a
couple of weeks ago, and I see that he has two for sale. Plus I see a
propane locker, which it what I need to make the switch from the alcohol
stove on my boat to propane.

 

Fred, the ads say he is parting out a 38 in the Bayfield area. Any chance
you know him and can get him to contact James and me?

 

BTW, Stu: My password to the Photo Album site got lost in a hard drive crash
some months ago. When I tried the link for a lost password on the login
screen for the classifieds this morning, I got an error message. Is that
part of the problem you are addressing?

 

And BTW, everyone: A friend with a 38 Landfall wants to convert the CNG
installation installed by the PO to LP. I seem to recall that some time ago
one of the listers had an LP tank enclosure designed for installation under
the seat of a 38LF (which would not fit the space available in my 38-2). If
you are still on the list and have the enclosure, let me know and my friend
will be in touch.

 

And BTW, while I'm thinking of it: While converting to LP is on the project
list (I already have the stove), I am still using the 40 year old Galley
Maid pressurized alcohol stove. One of the burners developed a pinhole leak,
and when I took the burner to a local shop to have the leaking tube brazed,
they managed to close off the tube completely. Can anyone point me to a
source for burners and parts for these old stoves? Or has anyone got a
Galley Maid alcohol stove out in the garage that they would like to sell? 

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Photo album ads & other stuff

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Thanks, Pete.

 

The USCG documentation database shows Red Hawk as a 1978, hull number 153. But 
the documentation is expired so there is no address information except the 
owner’s name.

 

Rick

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Pete 
Shelquist via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2015 10:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Pete Shelquist 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Photo album ads & other stuff

 

Mark Janda is in Bayfield WI.  He has a C&C38 named Red Hawk located at Port 
Superior.

 

I know him well and will get him in contact with James and Rick.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2015 9:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List Photo album ads & other stuff

 

Rick — is that Bayfield, Wisconsin, or Bayfield, Ontario?  I’m not familiar 
with Mark, but I can check around this weekend.

 

Haulout tomorrow…   :^(


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 

On Oct 8, 2015, at 9:10 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Stu, I’d appreciate contacting Mark Janda as well. James’ message prompted me 
to look at the Photo Album ads for the first time in a while, and I see a 
couple of items for my 38 that I could probably use. I tore up my RF 140 a 
couple of weeks ago, and I see that he has two for sale. Plus I see a propane 
locker, which it what I need to make the switch from the alcohol stove on my 
boat to propane.

 

Fred, the ads say he is parting out a 38 in the Bayfield area. Any chance you 
know him and can get him to contact James and me?

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

>From all the comments over the past few years I know that David's comment is
true. But I have always wondered "WHY?". What changed to make the rudder
position sensor essential?

 

Over the years I've had an Autohelm tillerpilot (800 I think) on a 27 and a
Raymarine 1000 tillerpilot on my 25 with tiller steering. A Raymarine 3000
belt driven wheel pilot. And there is a Navico 5000 wheel pilot on my 38
(I'm sure it isn't older than dirt, but it is almost older than plastic).
None of these has a wheel sensor - relying only on heading information from
the fluxgate compass built into them to steer the boat. All of them worked
well. 

 

The Navico took a bit of adjustment to the settings to optimize performance
(I suspect the PO had never set it up since the wheel lock to lock setting
was the default and not the proper number for the boat), but once set up the
wheelpilot will steer the boat for miles and miles without a variance from
the desired heading of over a degree or two.

 

So what has changed with the newer autopilots to make the rudder position
sensor so important?

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, October 10, 2015 6:52 PM
To: CNC CNC 
Cc: David 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations

 

Without the rudder position indicator the auto pilot is flying blind.  It
does not have a key component that allows them to do their job well.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



  _  

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2015 19:33:10 -0700
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
CC: svpegasu...@gmail.com  

I had to get auto pilot because my cat refuses to take the helm. So I got
the Raymarine X10 with linear drive and a St70 control head. Thinking I
should add a rudder transducer... am thinking this will lessen the constant
adjustments from the pilot. What is your opinion Fred? 

 

Doug Mountjoy

svPegasus

LF38 

just west of Ballard, WA. 

 


___ Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com   To change your list
preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Roller Reefing Boom

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

La Belle Aurore, 25 mk1 hull number 225, still has the roller furling boom – 
and I even still have the crank that came with the boat for furling. Like 
Touche, the roller boom is disabled by the Garhauer Vang. Bell has end boom 
sheeting with the traveler on the transom. And though I have done away with the 
topping lift, I still use the little rotating plate on the end of the boom as 
the attachment point for the mainsheet block.

 

I don’t really think this was the pinnacle of sailboat technology. But if it 
works, why change it.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2015 8:19 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ken Heaton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller Reefing Boom

 

I still occasionally sail on a C&C 35 Mk.1 that still has the roller furling 
main and the screw type outhaul.  It still has the pin stop traveler too.  The 
owner has has had her since 1980 or so.

 

He is always trying to convince us "this is the pinnacle of sailboat 
technology, why change anything?"

 

It works for him.

 

Ken H.

 

On 11 October 2015 at 21:03, Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Touche' still has the original roller boom.  It can't roll anymore because of 
the rigid boom vang.

I've replaced the old screw type outhaul with a car and 4:1 purchase.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Oct 11, 2015 4:44 PM, "schiller via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

So, Corsair is out for the season and I brought home the Spinnaker Pole and the 
Boom to clean up for the winter and it got me wondering how many still have the 
original roller reefing boom?  I have used the roller reefing feature once with 
the old main (no slab reefing).  We now have a North Main that has two reef 
points.  We don't reef all that often.  We just don't go out that often in 15+ 
TWS.

Once I got the end fitting off I figured out why the outhaul was always such a 
tough adjustment.  The outhaul sheave has a half inch ID and the pin is 5/16.  
There was no bushing in the sheave.  I think that I'll just order a new sheave 
from Rig Rite.

I am having the mast stepped this winter so that I can give it a good look over 
this winter.  I am going to replace all of the bulbs with LEDs and finally fix 
my spreader lights (they came disconnected a few years ago and I just haven't 
wanted to go up the mast that bad to reconnect them.

We are doing all of this work because we are finally leaving South Haven and 
taking the boat north to White Lake (Michigan).  It is a difficult decision.  
We have been in South Haven (short one year that we didn't even go in the water 
and one year in Saugatuck/Douglas due to low water levels in South Haven) since 
we came up to Michigan with our South Coast 23 in 1992.  We find that there is 
no social life for the old sailors in South Haven.  We are hoping to find a 
little more activity in Whitehall and we will join White Lake Yacht Club to 
help.  The up side to moving up the lake is that the cost is less (we can pay 
for the slip and the WLYC dues for less than slip in SH) and we can sail White 
Lake when the big lake is not hospitable.  We already know more people on White 
Lake than we do in South Haven. 

We are also replacing the 45 year old cushions since we will be spending more 
weekends on the boat.  Whitehall is a 2 hour drive, South Haven was a twenty 
minute drive.

This is a pretty big move for us but we are excited to maybe get more usage out 
of the boat.  Wish us luck.

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C&C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
on the hard in South Haven fo probably the last time



 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com  
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com  
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List VC17

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Graham is correct. The Interprotect literature indicates you should apply
the first coat of bottom paint before the Interprotect fully cures so that
it bonds with the Interprotect and acts as a primer. You touch the partially
cured material with a knuckle. When it is cured enough that you leave a
knuckle print but it does not stick to your skin, then you apply the first
coat. If I recall, it took about 45 minutes to cure sufficiently.

 

Basically, very little will stick to cured Interprotect except Interprotect.

 

Since I use Petit ablative paint, I put on a primer coat of hard Trinidad
Pro. After it was cured/dry, I painted with the final bottom paint. No
problems in the last 6 or 7 years.

 

I can't really say why the 6" or so along the waterline sluffs off, but that
is what happened on Imzadi before I put on the Interprotect. I've been told
is is because of the wave action causing erosion of the paint, but I've also
been told that the UV is a contributing factor.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham
Collins via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 11:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Graham Collins 
Subject: Re: Stus-List VC17

 

First coat of bottom paint has to go onto Interprotect 2000 while the
interprotect is still tacky, if I'm recalling correctly.  I've overcoated
Interprotect with Micron CSX this way and had good results.



Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-12 10:57 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:

Brent,

That's weird.  I'm taking a quess.  Maybe there was some sanding dust on the
hull after sanding?  Did you wipe the bottom with rags dipped in a solvent,
before painting?  Is it peeled off or worn off.  Got any pictures?

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 


  _  


From: "Brent Driedger via CnC-List"  

To: "C&C List"   
Cc: "Brent Driedger"  

Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:25:06 AM
Subject: Stus-List VC17

 

Hi everyone and to my fellow Canadians, happy Thanksgiving. 
I pulled Wild Rover out of the lake last weekend and found not to my
surprise that once again I have lost the majority of the VC17 I painted onto
the hull within 6 inches of the waterline. 
I originally brought the hull back to bare gel coat with a random orbital
sander and sealed with 6 coats of Interprotect 2000. This was sanded flat
and roughed up prior to the VC application. The Vc goes on as per the
instructions but every year I loose that 6" or so. More where the water is
turbulent. It's frustrating watching others pull boats with intact bottom
paint, even those who clean their hulls every couple of weeks. 
Any idea what I'm doing wrong? This is all the more important as the zebra
mussel infestation in Lake Winnipeg requires a good paint job. There were
about a thousand of them on the little keel in front of my rudder which like
the top 6" had lost its VC17 from the lower horizontal surface. 

 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

 

Sent from my iPhone
___

 

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com  
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

 

 






___
 
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com  
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

All diesel is made to the same set of standards. The red stuff just has a
dye  in it to indicate that the highway fuel tax has not been paid.

 

When your engine was built, diesel fuel had 5000 parts per million of
Sulphur content. The Sulphur was a significant factor in lubricating the
injection pump, injectors, etc.

 

In the mid to late 90s, in anticipation of the Tier 2 emissions standards,
Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content was reduced to 500 PPM,
and lubricity additives were incorporated in the fuel.

 

In the middle of the last decade, in anticipation of Tier 3 emission
standards, Ultra Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content on
current fuel is 15 PPM. A new Tier 3 engine is designed to run on ULS fuel,
just like a new gas engine is designed for ethanol.

 

Yanmar, Cummins, and Perkins (the 3 brands of diesels I used to teach
technicians about) all recommend that you add a lubricity additive to your
fuel if your engine was built before Tier 3 and ULS diesel became the norm.
For our size engines that means about 2010 (1 year later in Canada). The
service bulletins from Yanmar and Cummins (which I unfortunately lost when
the laptop's hard drive went up in smoke) both specifically recommend the
additive from Stanadyne.

 

Even though my Universal M35B is a Tier 3 version, I still add Standyne
lubricity additive (although I do occasional use a product from Lucas). It
can't hurt.

 

I also put BioBor JR in the fuel as an algaecide and try to keep my tank
full during winter storage. As Josh said, the nasties live in the water in
the tank and eat the diesel (don't get me started on bio-diesel). An
algaecide and reducing the chances of condensation in the tank are good
policy for avoiding fuel filter problems.

 

I've used about 2 tanks of fuel this year, so I'm not concerned with the
duel degrading in storage like you get with ethanol stored in a boat. Diesel
can generally be stored for about two years without significant degradation.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard
N. Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard N. Bush 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

 

With apologies for re-raising a previously discussed topic; my boat is a
1985 37 with the original Yanmar 3HMF 27 hp; I went for my annual diesel
fill up and the pumps were out of order; so I had to get diesel from a
street gas station; although the cost was almost a dollar per gallon
cheaper, I noted that it was the "green" color rather than the "red" color;
so my question is do I need to put some type of sulpher additive or
something along those lines into this fuel? I did motor with it for an
extended time on Sunday with no adverse effects; in addition to this
question, what should I use for the upcoming winter layup? many thanks 

 

Richard

1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River Mi. 584;


Richard N. Bush  
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com   To
change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of
page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I suspect most old car guys are familiar with Seafoam. Though I can't recall 
exactly what is in it. I've always used it as an additive for gasoline engines 
- boat fuel, mower fuel, oil mix for power tools and the outboard. I think of 
it as a better alternative to Stabil.

Can't say as I've ever thought about it as Diesel additive, or added it to 
engine oil. Might be a good thing to check out.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 13, 2015, at 20:43, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Hi Rick,
> A friend who works on cars and has a 32 foot sailboat for 25 years that looks 
> better than new, suggested I use SeaFoam in both fuel and engine oil.  It's 
> inexpensive and seems to make starting much easier, so I've been using that 
> for the last 8 years.  I use Bio-Flo Jr when I top off the tank for winter.  
> Any thoughts on SeaFoam?
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: "Rick Brass" 
> Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 8:52:03 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?
> 
> All diesel is made to the same set of standards. The red stuff just has a dye 
>  in it to indicate that the highway fuel tax has not been paid.
>  
> When your engine was built, diesel fuel had 5000 parts per million of Sulphur 
> content. The Sulphur was a significant factor in lubricating the injection 
> pump, injectors, etc.
>  
> In the mid to late 90s, in anticipation of the Tier 2 emissions standards, 
> Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content was reduced to 500 PPM, 
> and lubricity additives were incorporated in the fuel.
>  
> In the middle of the last decade, in anticipation of Tier 3 emission 
> standards, Ultra Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content on 
> current fuel is 15 PPM. A new Tier 3 engine is designed to run on ULS fuel, 
> just like a new gas engine is designed for ethanol.
>  
> Yanmar, Cummins, and Perkins (the 3 brands of diesels I used to teach 
> technicians about) all recommend that you add a lubricity additive to your 
> fuel if your engine was built before Tier 3 and ULS diesel became the norm. 
> For our size engines that means about 2010 (1 year later in Canada). The 
> service bulletins from Yanmar and Cummins (which I unfortunately lost when 
> the laptop’s hard drive went up in smoke) both specifically recommend the 
> additive from Stanadyne.
>  
> Even though my Universal M35B is a Tier 3 version, I still add Standyne 
> lubricity additive (although I do occasional use a product from Lucas). It 
> can’t hurt.
>  
> I also put BioBor JR in the fuel as an algaecide and try to keep my tank full 
> during winter storage. As Josh said, the nasties live in the water in the 
> tank and eat the diesel (don’t get me started on bio-diesel). An algaecide 
> and reducing the chances of condensation in the tank are good policy for 
> avoiding fuel filter problems.
>  
> I’ve used about 2 tanks of fuel this year, so I’m not concerned with the duel 
> degrading in storage like you get with ethanol stored in a boat. Diesel can 
> generally be stored for about two years without significant degradation.
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
> Bush via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:39 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Richard N. Bush 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?
>  
> With apologies for re-raising a previously discussed topic; my boat is a 1985 
> 37 with the original Yanmar 3HMF 27 hp; I went for my annual diesel fill up 
> and the pumps were out of order; so I had to get diesel from a street gas 
> station; although the cost was almost a dollar per gallon cheaper, I noted 
> that it was the "green" color rather than the "red" color; so my question is 
> do I need to put some type of sulpher additive or something along those lines 
> into this fuel? I did motor with it for an extended time on Sunday with no 
> adverse effects; in addition to this question, what should I use for the 
> upcoming winter layup? many thanks
>  
> Richard
> 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River Mi. 584;
> 
> 
> Richard N. Bush  
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
>  
>  
> Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, 
> including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: 
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.co

Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives? Mixing?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Ditto.

 

Biobor is an algaecide (though it may have other things in it?). Stanadyne is a 
lubricant. Have used both for perhaps 10 years.

 

Rick Brass

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jake 
Brodersen via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 6:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jake Brodersen 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives? Mixing?

 

Richard,

 

I use Stanadyne Performance Formula and Bio-bor.  They have separate functions. 
 I follow the label instructions on each.  No ill effects in 15 years of use.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 08:04
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard N. Bush
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives? Mixing?

 

OK upon reading  the several responses; if Stanadyne is the manufacturers 
recommendation, and others like Seafoam or Biobor; my question is; are these 
products mutually exclusive? Or can they be mixed together? Should one red over 
the other? Thanks...

 

Richard

1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584

 


Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Welcome the Newbie!

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

James is correct. Back in 2004 I reduced my draft from 6’1” to 5’3” using a 
Mars Metals torpedo bulb. My goal was to have a boat suitable to our shallow NC 
sounds, and for eventual cruising in the Bahamas and Keys.

 

I had to tell Mars how short we were making the keel, and how much the lead 
removed weighed. IIRC, we removed 800 pounds and they sent back a bulb weighing 
1150 to retain the proper righting moment. Cost of the bulb was a bit over 
$3200 including shipping. But as James said, lead was relatively cheap back 
then, and the bulb was shipped to North Carolina on the back of a truckload of 
keels going to Benneteau in South Carolina. All up, with labor to cut off the 
keel (using a rented chain saw, but a Sawzall would have worked too), drill the 
½” holes through the keel that hold the bulb to the keel, and assemble and fair 
the bulb (I painted it myself as part of a bottom job)$3800. I wouldn’t be 
surprised that it might be twice that now.

 

The cut off lead has considerable value now, which can offset some of the 
expense. Back then I couldn’t get a scrap yard to pick up the 800 pound chunk, 
and had no way to get it 50 miles to the recycler, so I donated it to someone 
who recast it for ballast in a wooden boat he was building. These days getting 
the lead picked up is not a problem.

 

Mars made most of the keels for our boats, so it probably won’t be necessary to 
send a tracing of the keel profile to Mars. But they can walk you through the 
process and tell you what it would cost.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of jtsails via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2015 12:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: jtsails 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Welcome the Newbie!

 

Brian and David,

The best person to answer your question is probably Rick Brass. He has done 
this project on his 38. I looked into it for my 38 also, so I can get you 
pointed in the right direction. My keel (and most probably yours too) was 
originally cast by Mars Metals. They can and do cast bolt on bulbs for just 
this type of project. You tell them how much you want to reduce the draft and 
they will design and cast a bulb for you. Rick reduced his draft from 6’1” to 
5’3”. I don’t remember the exact numbers on how much weight he took off or 
added back, but the bulb is designed to retain the original stability and 
stiffness. Rick is very pleased with the result. I decided against doing it 
primarily because of the cost, lead is expensive these days! You can get more 
info from the Mars Metals website.

James

Delaney

1976 C&C 38

Oriental, NC

 

From: Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List   

Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2015 11:54 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Stevan Plavsa   

Subject: Re: Stus-List Welcome the Newbie!

 

Hi Brian, welcome to the list! 

I've got a 1980 32, hull #59. Great boat but I don't know anything about 
reducing draft. I've done loads of other stuff to her though so if you ever 
have any questions, post them to the list, I lurk all the time. Mine is A4 
powered.

 

Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto

 

 

On Sat, Oct 17, 2015 at 9:43 AM, David via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

CnCer's,

 

My good buddy Brian owns a 1980 32.   He is an old friend, a great guy and 
keeps her (the boat) on the west coast of Florida.   

 

I thought some of you could answer his question about keel surgery...chopping 
off lead and recasting as a bulb to reduce his draft. Resources and DIY 
suggestions are welcome.  

 

Thanks in advance.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

 

 Original message 

From: Brian Beaudry 

Date:10/16/2015 3:08 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: David Risch 

Subject: Get me on the list 

 

briangbeau...@gmail.com  



-- 

Brian G. Beaudry


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com  
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



 

  _  

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com  
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Three years is about the experience I had when I still used Micron for
bottom paint.

Tip for you paint job in the spring: As a first coat paint the forward third
of the hull, the forward half of the keel, and the forward half of the
rudder with a contrasting color of paint. I use blue as a first coat under
my red bottom paint. The contrasting paint is your "signal coat". Then paint
the other costs with your preferred color. When the paint is sluffed off to
the point that the signal coat is visible, it is time to repaint the bottom.

I'm surprised that the base of the barnacles didn't get removed by pressure
washing. But then you paint had exceeded its life and the copper was
probably completely leached out of the paint.

Try taking a 1 1/2 or 2' wide wood chisel to the base disc of the barnacles.
Lay the edge of the chisel along the edge of the disc with the chisel almost
flush with the paint surface, and give the chisel a thump with your hand.
The disc should just pop off. That's has worked for me since I was shown the
trick by a yard mechanic several years ago.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 3:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint

For the past 4 sailing seasons, I have used Micron 66the first 3
seasons/haulouts, the bottom was void of any marine growth, and no
slime.didn't even need a pressure wash.

This haulout (season #4), the bottom was infested with barnaclesnot a
few scattered around, a significant number all overI wet sanded, which
removed the most of the little critters (and a lot of the 66) but there are
still traces of the 'little critters'.  Not sure if I will sand them out
completely or simply paint over them next Spring.

Anybody have this problem and how did you finally deal with it?

On a further antifouling paint story, years back in the Binnacle, a fellow
sailor/racer approached the shelves of antifouling paintshe stops and
pulls out a brass 'fishing scale'..I watch..he puts a gallon of a
brand on the scale, then another, and another, etc.  He 
chooses a gallon.   Naturally, I had to go over and ask what he was 
doing "weighing the amount of copper in each paint Bob.this gallon
weighs the most and that's the one I am putting on 'Apocalypse', his 40 ft,
home made in his back yard, race machine.

Maybe that's how I will choose my next gallon of antifouling paint!

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint -> devolving the basal plates

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

A spray bottle of muriatic acid does the same thing. Use a cheap spray bottle 
because you will only get to use it one time.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dreuge via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 7:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dreuge 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint -> devolving the basal plates

 

Robert,

 

The barnacle remains are called basal plates. If you are concerned about 
over sanding

than take a look at Barnacle Buster.  You spray it on, let it devolve the basal 
plates, and wash it off.

This stuff is great, but you need to keep it wet.

 

Here are two links providing info.   The first one is a write up in Practical 
Sailor on using Barnacle Buster in a "Barnacle Remover Test “.  The second info 
link, is a brochure. 

 

http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/33_5/chandlery/5439-1.html

 

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/pdfs/Trac_Ecological/TDS_Barnacle_Buster_2011.pdf
 

 

 

-
Paul E.

1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

 

On Oct 22, 2015, at 6:41 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
  wrote:

 


Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:11:01 -0300
From: robert <  robertabb...@eastlink.ca>
To:   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint
Message-ID: <  
562934c5.7040...@eastlink.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

For the past 4 sailing seasons, I have used Micron 66the first 3 
seasons/haulouts, the bottom was void of any marine growth, and no 
slime.didn't even need a pressure wash.

This haulout (season #4), the bottom was infested with barnaclesnot 
a few scattered around, a significant number all overI wet sanded, 
which removed the most of the little critters (and a lot of the 66) but 
there are still traces of the 'little critters'.  Not sure if I will 
sand them out completely or simply paint over them next Spring.

Anybody have this problem and how did you finally deal with it?

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Vinyl letters - experiences?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I bought the decals on Belle at an Atlantic City Boat Show (back when they 
still had them) from a company that specialized in  lettering for boats. Not 
Boat/US. That was back in about 95 or 96 and the letting is still in great 
shape with no noticeable fading.

 

Had to replace one set of decals on Imzadi when I had some paint touch up done 
in 2009. Used a national quickie sign folks. There are already parts of the 
decal sluffing off and brittle from the UV. There must be a difference in the 
materials used.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 12:24 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Vinyl letters - experiences?

 

Speaking of vinyl letters, I believe there is a difference in quality and 
service life of vinyl letters depending on suppliers.  

The first decal I had on Touche' looked good for over ten years.  I removed it 
to repaint the topsides.  I have also had several iterations of the Touche' 
logo on the side windows of my SUV's.  

The first set of decals was made by a local sign company.  This company does 
the local police and sheriff's vehicles.  The last few I had made at one of the 
nationwide quickie sign companies.

IMO, the decal made by the local company seemed to last longer. 

I'm considering using BoatUS or going back to the local sign company for the 
next set of decals. I have the logo digitally in several common formats so I 
can deal with most suppliers.

Anybody got any light to shed on this subject?

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I used Micron  in Delaware Bay, Chesapeake Bay, and the Sounds of eastern
North Carolina. Water here is brackish to salt, depending on proximity to
the ocean. Current water temp is about the same as our air temp - somewhere
in the 70s. Up to the low 80s in mid to late summer.

I switched to Petit ACP60 (now called Ultra, I think) when I bought Imzadi
about 12 years ago, based on local recommendations. There seems to be a lot
of Trinidad, Trinidad Pro, and Ultra used around here by us non-racers. I
usually get 4 years (we don't haul in the winter, we sail in cooler weather)
out of a bottom job.

Rick

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Rohwer via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 10:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Rohwer 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint

Wow, 3 years for bottom paint is pretty darn good! Are you in really cold or
brackish environment?
I have a neighbor in my marina that is going to be in the Smithsonian if he
can keep the garden growing under his vintage Columbia sloop!  He did get a
nice 25 hp Merc installed on the back since I saw it last. He somehow turned
it around in the slip! I thought it was attached to the bottom!
Rick
Paige's 37+

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 22, 2015, at 7:17 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List
 wrote:
> 
> Three years is about the experience I had when I still used Micron for 
> bottom paint.
> 
> Tip for you paint job in the spring: As a first coat paint the forward 
> third of the hull, the forward half of the keel, and the forward half 
> of the rudder with a contrasting color of paint. I use blue as a first 
> coat under my red bottom paint. The contrasting paint is your "signal 
> coat". Then paint the other costs with your preferred color. When the 
> paint is sluffed off to the point that the signal coat is visible, it is
time to repaint the bottom.
> 
> I'm surprised that the base of the barnacles didn't get removed by 
> pressure washing. But then you paint had exceeded its life and the 
> copper was probably completely leached out of the paint.
> 
> Try taking a 1 1/2 or 2' wide wood chisel to the base disc of the
barnacles.
> Lay the edge of the chisel along the edge of the disc with the chisel 
> almost flush with the paint surface, and give the chisel a thump with your
hand.
> The disc should just pop off. That's has worked for me since I was 
> shown the trick by a yard mechanic several years ago.
> 
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> robert via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 3:11 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: robert 
> Subject: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint
> 
> For the past 4 sailing seasons, I have used Micron 66the first 3 
> seasons/haulouts, the bottom was void of any marine growth, and no 
> slime.didn't even need a pressure wash.
> 
> This haulout (season #4), the bottom was infested with 
> barnaclesnot a few scattered around, a significant number all 
> overI wet sanded, which removed the most of the little critters 
> (and a lot of the 66) but there are still traces of the 'little 
> critters'.  Not sure if I will sand them out completely or simply paint
over them next Spring.
> 
> Anybody have this problem and how did you finally deal with it?
> 
> On a further antifouling paint story, years back in the Binnacle, a 
> fellow sailor/racer approached the shelves of antifouling paintshe 
> stops and pulls out a brass 'fishing scale'..I watch..he puts 
> a gallon of a brand on the scale, then another, and another, etc.  He
> chooses a gallon.   Naturally, I had to go over and ask what he was 
> doing "weighing the amount of copper in each paint Bob.this gallon 
> weighs the most and that's the one I am putting on 'Apocalypse', his 
> 40 ft, home made in his back yard, race machine.
> 
> Maybe that's how I will choose my next gallon of antifouling paint!
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.

Re: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint -> devolving the basal plates

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I don’t suppose there would be, so long as you flush with water. You might also 
look up the MMSI for Barnacle Buster and see what the active ingredient is. 
Might just be dilute acid.

 

What I did on my prop and shaft in 2009 was something that was recommended to 
me by one of the local fishermen. He told me it is typical for them to use a 2 
part product from Imterlux (the name of which I can’t recall) that etches the 
metal and puts down a primer coat, and then paint the prop and shaft with black 
Trinidad Pro. When I hauled in 2011, and again during a short haul in May of 
this year, I had no barnacles on my prop or shaft. Not a heck of a lot of black 
paint left, but that is easy to fix.

 

What I will be using next is called Pro Gold (very similar but less expensive 
than Prop Speed). Seems to be the go-to product among the local fishermen. Used 
it on a 29-2 back in the spring, but 6 months is too short a time to tell if it 
works better than what I was using.

 

Rick 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 23, 2015 6:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Indigo 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint -> devolving the basal plates

 

Any harm in using muriatic acid on my bronze prop or s/s shaft? That's where I 
find most basal plates. 

--

Jonathan

Indigo C&C 35III

SOUTHPORT CT


On Oct 22, 2015, at 22:20, Rick Brass via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

A spray bottle of muriatic acid does the same thing. Use a cheap spray bottle 
because you will only get to use it one time.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dreuge via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 7:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Dreuge mailto:dre...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint -> devolving the basal plates

 

Robert,

 

The barnacle remains are called basal plates. If you are concerned about 
over sanding

than take a look at Barnacle Buster.  You spray it on, let it devolve the basal 
plates, and wash it off.

This stuff is great, but you need to keep it wet.

 

Here are two links providing info.   The first one is a write up in Practical 
Sailor on using Barnacle Buster in a "Barnacle Remover Test “.  The second info 
link, is a brochure. 

 

http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/33_5/chandlery/5439-1.html

 

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/pdfs/Trac_Ecological/TDS_Barnacle_Buster_2011.pdf
 

 

 

-
Paul E.

1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

 

On Oct 22, 2015, at 6:41 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com>  wrote:

 


Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:11:01 -0300
From: robert < <mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca> robertabb...@eastlink.ca>
To:  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint
Message-ID: < <mailto:562934c5.7040...@eastlink.ca> 
562934c5.7040...@eastlink.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

For the past 4 sailing seasons, I have used Micron 66the first 3 
seasons/haulouts, the bottom was void of any marine growth, and no 
slime.didn't even need a pressure wash.

This haulout (season #4), the bottom was infested with barnaclesnot 
a few scattered around, a significant number all overI wet sanded, 
which removed the most of the little critters (and a lot of the 66) but 
there are still traces of the 'little critters'.  Not sure if I will 
sand them out completely or simply paint over them next Spring.

Anybody have this problem and how did you finally deal with it?

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 1980 C&C 32 Innisfree - Wilmington, DE

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

As I recall from prior posts on the list, and from reading the explanation
of HINs on the USCG website, there are at least three different schemes for
hull ID numbers that have been used over the years. I believe that the
explanation that Chuck included below is for the current scheme. 

 

On my old 38II, the last four characters are 0176, meaning the hell was laid
down (certified?) in January 1976, making the boat a 1976 model. The
presumption was that boat model years were like car model years - starting
in September - so 0975 would be a 76 model and 0976 would be a 77.

 

But the September model year start would not meet the needs of manufacturers
with longer build lead times, so a Model year format was started. M81D would
be model year 81, with build started in month D. I would need to look it up
again, but I think A was August, B September, etc. under this format.

 

Again, build schedules longer than 12 months would be a problem for the
system above. For example, Pacific Seacraft is about to launch the first 62
footer, which was first laid down in the spring of 2013, with a planned
launch date of June 2014. (Thumper commented that the customer doesn't
understand the "semi" part of semi-custom.)  So the system was changed
again. I suspect the last 4 characters of the HIN for the new Seacraft 62
will be something like D315 or even D316.

 

Here is a website with a pretty complete explanation:
http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.htm 

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, November 01, 2015 8:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1980 C&C 32 Innisfree - Wilmington, DE

 

Chuck:

Character 9 refers to the month..andcharacter 10 the year the boat
was certified.

In both of our HIN's, character 9 is 'M'but I can't find any 'M' in
the "letters that correspond to the following months"

So I ask again, what do the 'K' and 'D' stand for.it says below "The
eleventh and twelfth characters refer to the model year".

Any other C&C 32 owners with the 12th character a 'K'?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-11-01 8:13 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:

I think the K means the hull was molded in November.  

 

Found the HIN explained on the web:

 

  

The first 3 characters are what are referred to as the MIC or Manufacturers
Index Code.  There are several sites on the internet that can help you
decode the MIC of your HIN.  One such site is through the US Coast Guards
website  . Another option that
might be a bit easier to use is Boat History Report

which hosts a free HIN validator to verify you have the correct HIN to begin
with. 

 

The following 5 digits vary according the manufacturer but are meant to be
used as a serial number for that boat.  It may contain specifics such as the
length or material of the boat or it may just be a sequential number.
Manufacturers are able to use any series of numbers and letters except O, I
and Q because they are easily mistaken.  

 

The last 4 characters of the HIN represent the certification year and model
of the watercraft.  Character 9 refers to the month and character 10- the
year, the boat was certified. Certification means when the boat was stated
to be in compliance with all laws and regulations regarding safe boat
building.  The letters correspond to the following months: A- January, B-
February, C- March, D- April, E- May, F- June, G- July, H- August, I-
September, J- October, K- November, L- December.  The year is dictated using
the last number of the year- for example, March of 1982 would be written as
C2.  The eleventh and twelfth characters refer to the model year.  In the
example above, the boat was certified in March of 1993 with a model year of
1993.

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 


  _  


From: "robert via CnC-List"  

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: "robert"   
Sent: Sunday, November 1, 2015 4:59:59 PM
Subject: Stus-List 1980 C&C 32 Innisfree - Wilmington, DE

 

Bill:

 

No, I don't know anything about this boat.But I am curious about the 
"K" in the HIN.

 

I thought there were four (4) C&C 32 models, A,B,C, and D...mine is 
HIN   ZCC32277M84D...have never heard of a "K".

 

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

 

 






___
 
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com  
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 

 

___

Email address

Re: Stus-List 1980 C&C 32 Innisfree NOW HIN codes

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The “M” actually does mean something – that the manufacturer is using the MODEL 
Year format that was optional prior to August 1, 1984.

 

Why August 1st? Because any boat started after August 1st is by definition a 
boat of the following MODEL Year. 

 

If you look at the date codes listed under the illustration of the two number 
schemes used prior to August 84  in the material at 
http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.htm , you will see that the month 
code starts with A = August. This is different than is HINs after August 1984 
(which show both the month of certification and the model year); in the newer 
scheme A=January.

 

In your message below, the interpretation of the HIN ending in M80K is 
essentially correct. It signifies a 1980 model (M80) which was certified – 
start of the construction process, whatever event triggered it – s in month K. 
Since MODEL Year 1980 boats were made from August (A) 1979 to July (L) 1980, 
the start of production was June, 1980.

 

For the boat with HIN ending in M84D, the boat is a 1984 model (M84) and start 
of production was in month D. Month D = November, so for a 1984 model boat the 
certification was in November of 1983.

 

After August 1, 1984 (the nominal start of production for the 1985 models), the 
first 32 built would have had the date code of H4 (for certification in August 
1984, remember that A = January in the newer scheme) followed by 85 (the model 
year of the boat).  So the date code would be H485. All in all, the newer 
format is a lot less confusing and clearly defines both the date of 
certification and the model year.

 

And it also, as I said in an earlier post, accommodates builders with a long 
production cycle like Pacific Seacraft – where a boat started in 2013 will not 
get completed and launched until late in 2015.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 02, 2015 2:54 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ken Heaton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1980 C&C 32 Innisfree - Wilmington, DE

 

To add to that, before August 1, 1984 there were two different formats 
permitted for a Hull Identification Number (HIN).  These two formats differ 
only in the last four (4) digits.  Either you have 4 numerical values, the 
first two being month and the second two year OR the last 4 digits are letter, 
number, number, letter.  If your HIN is the second allowed format the first 
digit of the last group of 4 digits is always an M (which doesn't mean 
anything), followed by 2 digits which are numbers showing the year the 
construction papers were started, followed by a letter which is the month of 
manufacture.

 

...so for HIN ZCC32053M80K

 

ZCC = C&C Yachts

 

32 = 32' LOA

 

053 is the Serial number of your hull, so hull no. 53 of the C&C 32

 

M = nothing, just a place holder

 

80 = 1980, the year the construction of your hull was started

 

K = June, the month the construction of your hull was started

 

...and for HIN   ZCC32277M84D

 

ZCC = C&C Yachts

 

32 = 32' LOA

 

277 is the Serial number of your hull, so hull no. 277 of the C&C 32

 

M = nothing, just a place holder

 

84 = 1984, the year the construction of your hull was started

 

D = April, the month the construction of your hull was started (or at least the 
date the build paperwork was generated)

 

If they had started construction of your boat after August 1984 your HIN would 
have followed the new (different) format.

 

http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.htm

 

Does that help?

 

Ken H.

SV Salazar - C&C 37 XL

Cape Breton Island, NS

 

 

On 1 November 2015 at 21:20, robert via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Chuck:

Character 9 refers to the month..andcharacter 10 the year the boat was 
certified.

In both of our HIN's, character 9 is 'M'but I can't find any 'M' in the 
"letters that correspond to the following months"

So I ask again, what do the 'K' and 'D' stand for.it says below "The 
eleventh and twelfth characters refer to the model year".

Any other C&C 32 owners with the 12th character a 'K'?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-11-01 8:13 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:

I think the K means the hull was molded in November.  

 

Found the HIN explained on the web:

 

  

The first 3 characters are what are referred to as the MIC or Manufacturers 
Index Code.  There are several sites on the internet that can help you decode 
the MIC of your HIN.  One such site is through the US Coast Guards website 
 . Another option that might be a 
bit easier to use is Boat History Report 
  which 
hosts a free HIN validator to verify you have the correct HIN to begin with. 

 

The following 5 digits vary according the manufacturer but are 

Re: Stus-List Keel attachment issues on a C&C 25

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

>From the pictures you sent, it appears that the fiberglass layup is virtually 
>identical to the layup in my early 1975 model. I have the same raised area of 
>fiberglass under one of the keel bolts, and also the same strip if roving 
>athwart the bilge and extending up under the cockpit sole.

 

I am interested in the irregular hole in the sole that you show in photo #1. My 
bilge is accessed through a long rectangular opening in the sole, and the edges 
of the sole are recessed to take a rectangular teak board. So all of my keel 
bolts are accessible through the same rectangular opening.

 

When I bought Belle in May, 1994 she had a C&C smile – though I did not know 
what that was at the time. On someone’s recommendation I opened up the crack, 
laid in sealant (maybe 5200?), faired over the sealant, and finished painting 
the bottom. When I hauled out that October, the smile was back.

 

Belle also has rust in the bilge. My keel nuts were stainless, but there were 
what was left of galvanized washers under the nuts. I can’t quite determine if 
your keel nuts are stainless or galvanized – but the keel bolts and nuts on 
Belle were obviously clean stainless and still pretty shiny as I recall.

 

Anyway, over the first winter I discovered a precursor to this list and learned 
about the C&C smile and proper keel bolt torque. I had some new stainless 
backing plates made from stainless (3/16” or ¼” thick) and before the spring 
launch I replaced all the rusted backing plates with stainless (one bolt at a 
time) and properly torqued the keel bolts. Then re-faired the smile and applied 
bottom paint. I re-torqued the bolts during a haul out in about 2003 or 2004 
(they did not seem to have loosened any in the intervening 8 or 9 years). When 
Belle was last hauled a couple of years ago, there was still no evidence of a 
smile.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ahmet via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2015 2:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ahmet 
Subject: Stus-List Keel attachment issues on a C&C 25

 

Hi everybody,

Last August I bought a 1973 C&C 25 "Tabasco" for fun sailing, since I realized 
that may Irwin 43 "Waterdancer" is a great liveaboard for us, but really not a 
daysailor :)

 

I love the way Tabasco sails, very easy to handle and fast boat. 

 

Being a 43 year old boat, obviously she is an old girl, so here is what I am 
dealing with: 

 

There was excessive rust (Picture 1) 
  in the bilge.  After cleaning it 
up I discovered that there were multiple washers, or a washer and a backing 
plate under the keel nuts. I said "were" because although the 1.5 inch nut with 
and the 3 inch washer is in great shape,whatever once was under the washer is 
almost totally rusted off. In some areas 1/3 or more of the washer is up in 
air, no contact with the bottom of the bilge. (Picture 2) 
   and what is left, I am afraid, 
is ready to crumble away. The bilge was full of crumbled rusted metal pieces.

 

Also there was a very sloppy work in the area where the bilge sump is, such 
that you can actually see the treads of the keel bolt under the washer. 
(Picture 3)  . The washer is 
halfway in the air and not totally aligned with the keelbolt. This one is the 
part that concerns me the most. 

Also on that picture you can see parts of the mat having cured in odd shapes, 
in front of the bolt.

 

Perhaps someone at one time has done reinforcing, because I see a substantial 
layer (almost 1/2 in) additional layer of mat about 10 inches wide laid up 
across the bilge on the keelbolt areas.  (Picture 4) 
 

 

Interestingly, there is no water intrusion into the bilge, and no C&C smile. I 
suspect it has been this way for years. 

 

I would like to remove the keelbolts, one at a time, get rid of the rusty part, 
fair out the bottom of the bilge and install new washers.

 

Unfortunately the boat is in the water for wet winter storage.  My question is, 
should I wait until I haul out next spring to do the bottom paint to do this 
job, or should I do it now. I have more time over the winter than I will have 
next spring.

 

Also, I see no trace of any 5200 or similar under the washers. Although I have 
no leaks, I will add that. 

 

 

My questions are:, 

*Is it possible that this sloppy work was done at the factory, 
considering that this is a 1973 model ?

*Did anybody else have similar issues, if so, any words of wisdom ? :)  

*Could I safely do this in the water ?

*Any suggestions, besides using mat and epoxy to build up the area 
around the exposed bolt in  (Picture 3) 
 . 

 

Many thanks in advance

 

Ahmet

Winthrop Y

Re: Stus-List C&C 25 MkI

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

You are right, the brochures on the Photo Album are for the Mk2.

 

AFIK, there were 3 models: The Redline 25 originated in the late 60s. The 25 
(mk1, though it would not have been called that) which started in 1973. And the 
25 mk2 first built in 1980.

 

The Mk1 and Mk2 both have a swept back keel, but the one on the Mk2 is 6” 
deeper and a bit less swept back. The Mk1 does have the cabin trunk sweeping 
smoothly into the foredeck like the 33-1 and the 38, while the Mk2 has a break 
in the cabin trunk much like the 24s and the 26. The mk2 also has an anchor 
locker. The Mk2 has a bridge deck, while the Mk1 has a companionway that 
extends almost to the cockpit sole. In a Mk1, there is a lazarette at the aft 
end of the cockpit. The interior arrangement is pretty similar, except in the 
area of the galley. The Mk2 has the glued-in portlights of the 80s boats, while 
my Mk1 has aluminum frames (thank goodness).

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2015 10:31 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Cc: Chuck S 
Subject: Stus-List C&C 25 MkI

 

Hi Rick,

I'm curious about the 25 model.  I looked thru the brochures on the 
cncphotoalbum.com site and did not find the MkI '73 or '75 C&C 25 listed.  The 
brochures appear to be 80's vintage.  I think our local yard has MkI 25?  It 
has a cabin top that fairs into the foredeck, no bump, and a very swept back 
keel.

 

Anybody have the brochure for this model?

  

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 

  _____  

From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: "Rick Brass" mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net> >
Sent: Saturday, November 7, 2015 9:44:50 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel attachment issues on a C&C 25

 

>From the pictures you sent, it appears that the fiberglass layup is virtually 
>identical to the layup in my early 1975 model. I have the same raised area of 
>fiberglass under one of the keel bolts, and also the same strip if roving 
>athwart the bilge and extending up under the cockpit sole.

 

I am interested in the irregular hole in the sole that you show in photo #1. My 
bilge is accessed through a long rectangular opening in the sole, and the edges 
of the sole are recessed to take a rectangular teak board. So all of my keel 
bolts are accessible through the same rectangular opening.

 

When I bought Belle in May, 1994 she had a C&C smile – though I did not know 
what that was at the time. On someone’s recommendation I opened up the crack, 
laid in sealant (maybe 5200?), faired over the sealant, and finished painting 
the bottom. When I hauled out that October, the smile was back.

 

Belle also has rust in the bilge. My keel nuts were stainless, but there were 
what was left of galvanized washers under the nuts. I can’t quite determine if 
your keel nuts are stainless or galvanized – but the keel bolts and nuts on 
Belle were obviously clean stainless and still pretty shiny as I recall.

 

Anyway, over the first winter I discovered a precursor to this list and learned 
about the C&C smile and proper keel bolt torque. I had some new stainless 
backing plates made from stainless (3/16” or ¼” thick) and before the spring 
launch I replaced all the rusted backing plates with stainless (one bolt at a 
time) and properly torqued the keel bolts. Then re-faired the smile and applied 
bottom paint. I re-torqued the bolts during a haul out in about 2003 or 2004 
(they did not seem to have loosened any in the intervening 8 or 9 years). When 
Belle was last hauled a couple of years ago, there was still no evidence of a 
smile.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Shift / throttle cables

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Take your cables to the local NAPA or other auto parts store. They will match 
the length and the cable ends to the proper Teledyne – Morse cables for your 
installation. They are pretty inexpensive, I think I paid about $40-45 for the 
replacement cables for my 38 (one of which was the old fat cable with an 
extended length that was used on the Paragon transmission for the OEM A4 engine 
that had been replaced back in 2000).

 

The little J shaped clamp that compressed the cable sheath is still the best 
way to overcome the throttle return spring.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John and 
Maryann Read via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2015 9:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John and Maryann Read 
Subject: Stus-List Shift / throttle cables

 

Have removed the shift and throttle cables as they were stiff and had excessive 
resistance.  Not surprising as they are OEM and 33 years old.  Any thoughts on 
suitable replacement and where to purchase??

 

On a related note, our Yanmar 3GM throttle has a built in internal spring that 
applies increasing resistance as the throttle is opened more.  The OEM fix was 
to put an adjustable crimp in the cable but that seems less than ideal.  Any 
thoughts as to how to offset the internal spring??

 

Many thanks for your thoughts

 

John & Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

  _  


  

This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. 
www.avast.com   

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C 25 headsail size

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

My #1 is a 155 made of Pentax and Kevlar, and I fly it up to about 15 or 17 
apparent. My next step down is a 110 Lapper with a short hoist and about a 2’ 
pendant at the head of the sail. I bought a 65% storm jib when I first bought 
the boat, thinking I would need it. I guess I’ve flown it about twice in the 
past 21 years. I also have a dacron 150 that came with the boat, which I use 
for recreational sailing and cruises to save wear and tear on the Kevlar 
headsail.

 

The boat is pretty stiff, and performs best at about 20 degrees of heel. If you 
get it so far over that the rail is threatening to go in the water, that’s slow.

 

The boats of that era came with a 160 or 170 as the #1, and are designed to be 
driven by the headsail. Reef or luff the mainsail before doing a headsail 
change in order to keep her from heeling too much.

 

I added a Garhauer line adjustable genoa track years ago, and find it to be 
invaluable.

 

I also upgraded from the original winches (Barient 18s IIRC) to a pair of 
Barient 22 2speeds. The bigger winches make handling the larger headsail much 
easier.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ahmet via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2015 12:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ahmet 
Subject: Stus-List C&C 25 headsail size

 

Next year I will race Tabasco a bit. I have 2 headsails, one seems to be a 105, 
the other a 130.

I like the 105, because it is easy to tack, and strong enough to have an 
enjoyable sail if I am lazy and it is blowing over 10.

The sail in Sailboatdata looks like a pretty big sail, like a 150.

 

What is the largest reasonable headsail you guys on the 25 use, without having 
to deal with excessive tenderness ?

Thank You

Ahmet

S/V Tabasco

1973 C&C 25Boston, MA

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I have a 75 model boat that I’ve owned for 21 years, and a 76 model that I’ve 
owned for 12. Between them they have 6 aluminum frame windows. None of the 
frames have ever been rebidded, and none of them leak.

 

Back in the mid-90s when I replaced the first pair of portlight lenses on my 
25, someone on the precursers to this list told me how to do it. And 
instruction #1 was DON’T MESS WITH THE ALUMINUM FRAMES.

 

I realize that can’t always be an absolute, but from my experience, it is very 
good advice.

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bobmor99 . 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2015 8:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bobmor99 . 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

 

A very important distinction (made before by others) when talking about 
rebedding windows/ports/port lights is whether the window is the old style, 
i.e. aluminium frame attached to the cabintop and a lens attached to the frame 
or, the newer style which is a lens glued directly to the the outside of the 
cabintop,

This distinction eluded me for quite awhile when reading threads about 
rebedding windows/ports/port lights. 

I have the old style windows and am very happy using butyl to seal the frames 
to the outside of the cabintop (along with the screws that attach the frame to 
the cabintop). (Here, there's a difference between attaching and sealing.)

The newer windows/ports/port lights rely on a very strong adhesive to both 
attach and seal the lens to the outside of the cabintop. 

Hope this helps,

Bob M

Ox 33-1

Jax, FL

 

On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 6:01 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

A lot of people paraise using Butyl tape for attaching windows.

I have not done it, but I can see the results on my C&C Hull/Deck joint, and it 
looks pretty good

Ahmet

 

 

 

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I  rebuilt an A&H hatch with 295UV. It certainly was persnickety about the 
cleaning, the primer, and the timing. But I don’t recall it as being 
particularly messy to apply or to clean up. And it has certainly never leaked.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2015 10:57 AM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

 

Sikaflex 295 UV is rated at 160 psi.  60% stronger than the highest rated VHB 
tape.  I bet its a bit messier too... 

Josh Muckley 

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Contacting Mark Janda?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

A few weeks ago, about 4 listers were trying to contact Mark Janda about
some items for a 38 mk2 that he had listed on the Photo Album classifieds.
Someone on the list knew Mark and offered to pass along our names. Stu also
fixed the contact information on the classified ads. A week ago I emailed
Mark about the items I was interested in buying. So far, no response.

 

Has anyone heard anything from Mark Janda recently?

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Lewmar Ocean Hatch Seals

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I spent 3 ½ trying hours today attempting to replace the hatch seal on the
Lewmar Ocean 60 foredeck hatch on Kathy Sisk’s 29-2. She bought the Lewmar
hatch seal kits for both the 60 series foredeck hatch and the 20 series on
the cabin top. We started with the foredeck hatch because that one has been
leaking.

 

The Lewmar instructions indicate you should insert the little flap on the
inside edge of the seal into the slot between the hatch frame and the lens,
and then stretch the seal so the lip on the outside edge of the seal engages
around the outside edge of the hatch frame. Easy enough to do on the
straight sides of the frame, but virtually impossible to do on the corners.
I finally gave up - with only 1 corner engaged - before I either ruined the
seal or went completely postal on Kathy for getting me involved in this
project. There must be either a secret or a special tool needed to simplify
the job.

 

I’ve been looking online, and one source for seals tells you that you must
remove the lens to replace the seal if you use the Lewmar seals.

 

HELP! There are enough of you on the list that have Lewmar Ocean Hatches or
29-2s. Somebody must know the secret of replacing these hatch seals. 

 

Please, guys, what is it?

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Video of C&C 30 racing in Annapolis

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The attached video was included in a post from a sailing TV website this
morning. I have to say I'm impressed to see so many C&C 30s on the line, and
the performance of the boats is impressive. Certainly not "us father's" C&C.
And pretty athletic for this fat old man. But impressive none the less.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FxUDhhQQVo

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Batteries in the cabin. Was Re: Changing weight distribution in Landfall 38

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

And since the biggest batteries you could fit into the bilge of a 25 would be D 
cells, I think the Irwin 43 is the correct assumption.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 20, 2015 9:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Batteries in the cabin. Was Re: Changing weight 
distribution in Landfall 38

 

Bob — I think you missed the boat reference underneath the C&C25:  Irwin 43 
“Waterdancer”.  I imagine that’s where the batteries live…  and the dogs…   :^)


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On Nov 20, 2015, at 7:54 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

The symptoms are (1) an unexplainable urge to find warm weather, (2) an urge to 
get off the boat when it snows, and (3) cold feet in the winter.  (Just kidding)

 

Life is full of dangers--the biggest one on the highway.

 

How did you manage to fit 5 group 27s under your cabin sole in a C&C 27?  Are 
you crazy living aboard avC&C 27 in the winter in Boston?  I can understand the 
need for 2 dogs--hope they are big ones!

 

Bob

Bob Boyer

S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD

1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230

email: dainyr...@icloud.com   

blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com  

 

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame


On Nov 19, 2015, at 11:30 PM, Sailnomad via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Ok, now I am worried
I have 5 group 27 wet cell batteries under my cabin sole. They are not wented. 
And I live aboard full time with wife and 2 dogs. Am I living dangerously ? I 
never smelled anything. What are the symptoms ?
Ahmet
C&C 25 "Tabasco"
Irwin 43 "Waterdancer"
Boston, MA

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Update: Re: Keel attachment issues on a C&C 25

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Damn. Wish I’d thought about McMaster-Carr when I did my boat 20-some years
ago. I paid more than $5 a plate way back then.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2015 10:30 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Update: Re: Keel attachment issues on a C&C 25

 

<<) please feel free to scold me :)>>

 

OK, with that license,  Ahmet, for chrissakes, quit pussyfooting around and
just buy the right washer for the job!


91122A140  

Just get some of these washers that McMaster has kindly put in stock for
you, and be done with it.

I am assuming those are 1 inch bolts, if not, they have other sizes, such as
¾”  91122A130  

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PA

 

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Update: Re: Keel attachment issues on a C&C 25

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Ahmet;

 

As I said before, I replaced the original steel backing plates (if I recall, 
they were more like steel fender washers) on my 25 when she was a bit over 20 
years old. I had some square backing plates made out of 3/16” or ¼” stainless. 
About 3 or 4 inches square and with the proper sized holes drilled in the 
middle.  A local machine shop could probably knock out the 5 or 6 plates you 
will need in not much more than an hour – or you might get a friend with a 
suitable shop in his garage to do it for the price of a 12 pack. I think I put 
a bead of 4200 under each plate when I torqued them down, but I suspect that 
was actually overkill. 

 

Were I to do the same job today, I would go to Fastenall, or another industrial 
hardware supplier, and buy a stack of stainless fender washers of the 
appropriate sizes and just put two washers under each nut and retorque the nuts.

 

Proper torque on the nut is very important. I think I borrowed or rented a 
torque wrench and a torque multiplier from a local NAPA store when I did my 
project. The photo album has a listing of the proper torque values.

 

If you had no leakage when you removed the nut, the sealant between the top of 
the keel and the keel stub is still doing its job after 40-some years. Proper 
torque on the keel boats will keep it so. Sealant on the inside of the joint is 
probably not going to keep any leakage out. But sealant between the washers and 
the bolt in the presence of water in the bilge is a potential recipe for 
crevice corrosion that will weaken the bolt.

 

If your boat is like mine, that may not be a concern. Belle is a very dry boat. 
Every 6 months or so I clean out the bilge – usually with a sponge. I don’t 
recall having accumulated more than an inch of water in the bilge since I 
refinished and rebidded the handrails and added some butyl around the chain 
plates a decade or more ago.

 

I would personally be a bit leery of using the G10 as a backing material. You 
have a lot of compression under the nuts, but you also might have shock loading 
if you ever run aground, and a fair bit of torsional loading as the boat heels 
and moves in the waves while sailing. I think stainless would be a stronger and 
more conservative choice.

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ahmet via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2015 2:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ahmet 
Subject: Stus-List Update: Re: Keel attachment issues on a C&C 25

 

A few weeks ago I started a thread about the rust on my keel bolt washers 
 .

 

Today, I bit the bullet and removed one keelbolt with the boat in the water 
with a 3 ft breaker bar extended with a pipe. The nut seemed to still have the 
right torque, and came out once I applied the force in the right direction :)

 

I was able to peel off the corroded washer/backing plate with a screwdriver and 
a hammer.

 

The bolt threads were clean (pic 5) 
  . So was the nut l (pic 9) 
  . It was all stainless steel.

I did not get a chance to test the magnetism. I will do tomorrow.

 

At no point was a hint of water seepage.

 

Whatever was left as the rusted plate under the washer is in this picture 
 . It looks like an iron backing 
plate  . It is very magnetic.

 

All I had was galvanized washers. So I put the good stainless steel washer to 
the bottom added 2 galvanized washers and a galvanized lock washer and 
tightened  the nut back to approx, 200 lbs-ft 
 . 

 

Probably useless, but I put some boat-life under the stainless washer which 
probably got totally squeezed out. In the picture 
  you can not see the stainless 
washer because it is thinner and hidden behind the silicon.

 

There is a slight bulge at the base of the keel bolt. 

 

Repair plan:

I am planning to use:

* Marine-Tex just  to flatten out the bilge area, probably max 1/4 
inches in the deepest areas,  

* use  a layer of 3m 4200 

* a  4 by 4 by 1 inch G-10 board as a backing plate 

* followed with triple 316 stainless washers.

 

Does it look like overkill ? Should I just use 1/2 inch thick G-10 boards ?

 

I will keep an eye on the galvanized washers. I am not very comfortable mixing 
galvanized with stainless.

 

Now that I have sort of an idea what is under the nuts, I will complete the job 
for the other washers when I pull the rest of the nuts out while on the dry 
next spring.

 

If someone sees something wrong in all these (besides removing the nut while in 
the water, which seems to be a very contested subject  ) please feel free to 
scold m

Re: Stus-List Vacation II St Martin

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

While on vacation in Key West a few years ago, I had the chance for a 
conversation over a couple of beers with the skipper of the former Stars and 
Stripes that sailed/sails out of Key West. He told me the Coast Guard made them 
take a significant amount off the mast – something like 17 feet! – before they 
could carry passengers.  But I still think sailing on a 12 meter would be a 
hoot.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2015 9:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Vacation II St Martin

 

The Americas Cup Challenge Excursion is still there. Did it a few years ago. If 
you know anything about racing and are paying attention, it’s more than a 
little disappointing. The skippers will purposely mis-steer, mis-trim and go to 
the song gate marks in order to ensure it’s a close finish. They’ve also 
modified the boats tremendously.


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 








 






 

On Nov 25, 2015, at 8:57 AM, William Walker via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Its been many years ago but Stars and Stripes and Canada were there and doing 
daysails.  At time, had two crew plus the tourists on board.  Did a little race 
around bouys.  If you had sailing experience they let you work.  I was main 
sail trimmer.  Others grinders, etc.  One beer wench.  Best 60 bucks I spent 
entire trip.  Don't know if still there.
Bill Walker
CnC 36

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

 

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Tide prediction app for my IPad?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Through luck or skill, we managed to bring the 72' schooner I was on over
the weekend into the yard within 10 minutes after high tide - which was
pretty much what was intended, based on the presumption that high tide would
mean something close to slack water. Unfortunately, on arrival I found we
still had about 1.5 knots of flood current running, and it was across the
entrance to the haul slip we were headed for and pushing us away from the
dock where we were supposed to tie up.

 

I'm sure the combination of spring lines, prop walk, and current pushing the
bow around the corner was entertaining and instructive to the spectators in
the marina. But I'd just as soon avoid a repeat, and I now  recognize how
deficient the current information is in the navigation app I use on my IPad.
Weather and tide information is great, but I need a current prediction app
to supplement what I have on the device.

 

So what do you guys use and what would you recommend?

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Bad Build

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The keel bolt under the mast isn’t “wrong”, it’s just darned inconvenient every 
decade or so. ;-)

 

You have good design and optimum placement for the keel bolt, and good design 
and optimum placement for the mast. At least by the design standards of the 
period. It just happens the placement overlaps.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2015 7:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Godwin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bad Build

 

"They can do no wrong ;)”

 

You mean like placing the forward keelboat directly underneath the mast of my 
37’ ? ;-)

 

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List glue for hatch gasket

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

3M Weather-strip Adhesive 8011 is probably what is holding the neoprene seals 
around the doors in your car. Any good auto store that caters to body shops 
should have it.

 

Another alternative is 3M Emblem and Trim Adhesive 3601, which you can buy at 
Walmart or just about any  auto parts store. This is commonly used to glue the 
vinyl side moldings on cars, and is really tenacious and impervious to weather. 
Plus it is clear if you happen to get some where it is not supposed to be.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2015 4:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List glue for hatch gasket

 

Sorry, I know this has probably been answered before, but I need to re-glue 
hatch gasket.  Is Epoxy  glue ok?  

 

Joel



-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List glue for hatch gasket

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

8002 is pretty commonly referred to among automotive body repair techs as 
“gorilla snot”. It is a very good contact adhesive, and widely used for putting 
trim like rub strips and door guards back on after repairs. It seems to last 
almost forever. It should work nicely.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2015 11:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List glue for hatch gasket

 

My local AutoZone had 3M yellow super weatherstrip and gasket adhesive number 
8002. Looks like yellow contact cement. Hopefully it will do the job.

Joel 

On Sunday, December 6, 2015, Rick Brass via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

3M Weather-strip Adhesive 8011 is probably what is holding the neoprene seals 
around the doors in your car. Any good auto store that caters to body shops 
should have it.

 

Another alternative is 3M Emblem and Trim Adhesive 3601, which you can buy at 
Walmart or just about any  auto parts store. This is commonly used to glue the 
vinyl side moldings on cars, and is really tenacious and impervious to weather. 
Plus it is clear if you happen to get some where it is not supposed to be.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
 ] On Behalf Of 
Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2015 4:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 
Cc: Joel Aronson  >
Subject: Stus-List glue for hatch gasket

 

Sorry, I know this has probably been answered before, but I need to re-glue 
hatch gasket.  Is Epoxy  glue ok?  

 

Joel



-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551



-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

My friend’s 1983 LF38 has a rather large removable rectangular panel in the 
area you are talking about (which provides pretty fair access to the right side 
of the engine, transmission, and v drive, as I know from personal experience). 
There are stainless tabs on the edge of the panel that keep the surface flush 
with the quarter berth side of the bulkhead, and the quarter berth cushion 
holds the panel in place.

 

Maybe the area of rot is an opportunity to increase the engine compartment 
access.

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 07, 2015 6:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?

 

Patrick — from what I can see in your photos, I wouldn’t be surprised if the 
battery (or a previous one) had something to do with the rot.  The 
discoloration and deterioration of the wood could have come from acid leak or 
outgassing of hydrogen sulfide from a battery being overcharged.

 

Your best bet, if you have enough access, would be to cut back a rectangular 
section of the plywood until you reach “good” wood, then put in a patch out of 
new marine plywood and get a layer of glass over everything.  That should keep 
the battery issue in check in the future.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On Dec 7, 2015, at 3:00 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

So I'm doing a lot of projects lately, and was majorly bummed out to find the 
wall between the engine compartment and the lower foot of the port aft 
quarterberth has some significant rot. Frustrated because lately it feels like 
every project I fix, I find a new one. And this will be a big one. 

 

Please see pictures here: 
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NNVBhbXpEZnhkUE0 

 &usp=sharing

 

As they say, pictures are worth a thousand words. It's a 2-3 foot section of 
the port engine compartment wall, abutting the storage compartments under the 
port quarterberth.

 

One thing I'm perplexed on is - how did this happen? There are no leaks 
dripping onto this area as far as I can tell. The cockpit is above this and it 
doesn't have any major penetrations on this side. And the top of the bulkhead 
is solid. Normally when wood rots I expect it to start from the top, where the 
leak is. 

 

The only clue I have is this bulkhead had two cuts / gaps in the bottom 
(probably to run wires through) and that's where the rot seems to have spread 
out from. So maybe the moisture got in through the exposed grain at the cut?  
There is high humidity in the engine compartment due to inevitable moisture in 
there. But also the rot is right behind the batteries (house #1 + starter), 
which I find suspicious. Is it possible the gel cells outgassing actually 
caused the damage somehow? 

 

>From the pictures do you think this might be "dry rot"? (a particularly evil 
>kind of rot which apparently spreads by fungus even without an active water 
>leak anymore)

 

If it's spreading I want to cut out the bad portion of the bulkhead and glass 
in new wood asap. If it's not spreading I can put it off, or even ignore it 
since it's not structural. I could even just paint over it with new waterproof 
marine paint?   If I have to cut it out, access will be tough - it's in the 
engine space, I'll have to remove the batteries, some wiring, and probably the 
exhaust lift riser, and the panel that covers the aft quarterberth storage 
compartments. 

 

The other thing is I can't even tell what kind of wood this was originally. It 
doesn't seem as strong as marine plywood or the wood used in other bulkheads. 
The bad wood seems sort of grey / bluish colored - I'm not sure if that's from 
the flaked off white paint or what. 

 

The other option is trying Git Rot injected into holes drilled into it. 
http://www.boatlife.com/git-rot/

 

At this point mainly wondering if any of you have experience with this issue, 
particularly in this area (non-structural, between engine compartment and aft 
qtrberth storage compartments) or how something like this can happen (rotting 
from the bottom up rather than top down)?

 

-Patrick

1984 C&C LF38

Seattle, WA

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I understand the location now, it’s the partition that separated the battery 
“shelf” from the storage area under the quarter berth. Right?

 

I think I’d agree with others who have suggested the problem is likely to be 
battery fumes and not water penetration. Air circulation outboard of the 
batteries is probably problematic. All batteries outgas (yes, even AGMs) to 
some degree when charging. Some batteries outgas a lot when overcharged. And 
given the age of a LF38 you are probably looking at an artifact that dates from 
the era of lead acid batteries and ferro-resonant chargers that would 
frequently boil all the water out of a battery over the summer.

 

The rotted panel seems to have three purposes:

1)  Keep engine heat, fumes, and noise out of the quarter berth

2)  Keep stuff in the storage area out of the engine space

3)  Support the base panel of the quarter berth

Maybe the easiest and quickest thing to do would be to use a rotozip to cut out 
the rotted areas and then sister an appropriately shaped piece of 3/8” 
starboard to the locker side of the partition to satisfy 1, 2, and 3 ?

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Patrick 
Davin via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2015 10:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Patrick Davin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?

 

@Rick, there is an access panel from the quarterberth, but that panel is 
vertically above the area where the issue is, and it juts out about 8" - in 
other words, the battery cubby is inset / receded under the quarterberth. Hard 
to describe. So to see the wall rot from there I'd have to stick my head into 
the engine space, push my head down and try to bend my neck around the corner 
to get at the wall. I think it will be much easier to go in through the 
below-quarterberth storage, but I'll probably have to remove the quarterberth 
base panel to do that. 

 

Sorry the pictures aren't great, it's a tough area to photograph. I should've 
taken a video with my GoPro. 

 

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Boat tools

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Dennis,

 

I agree with you that nut drivers are essential tools. I find I use the set on 
the boat much more than I use the socket wrenches. I’m going to give myself a 
set with a spring loaded shaft for Christmas, because I am constantly amazed at 
how often the normal nut driver is just a bit too long, or there is something 
just a skoosh in the way of getting a straight lineup on the nut being driven.

 

As I classic C&C owner, I nominate a set of  Roberson screwdrivers (you know, 
the ones with a square bit) as the most valuable tool.

 

And my other Christmas present to myself will be a good quality (likely Makita 
or Bosch) 18 volt drill driver with 2 lithium batteries. Every cansarned time I 
get out the drill on the boat, the NICad batteries are dead. That one is going 
into the garage where a battery can be kept on the charger.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2015 2:54 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Boat tools

 

Time for a discussion on our favorite boat tools  Aside from the usual 
collection of wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers and locking pliers, what do you 
find indispensable for boat work?





 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Boat tools

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Your boat is just too new, Josh. The boats built in Canada in the 70s have 
HUNDREDS of flat head Roberson screws (if they haven’t gotten replaced with 
Phillips oval head screws over the years).

 

Rick

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2015 9:01 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat tools

 

Rick, 

I didn't think anyone cared so I didn't mention that the Klein screwdriver I 
linked also does 2 different sizes of square bits.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002RI5EY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1449613051 

 
&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=klein+tools+10+in+1&dpPl=1&dpID=31M7C8mWD6L&ref=plSrch

Josh

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Pleated Blinds

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I've seen the pleated blinds and the aluminum rails they are mounted on in
an RV parts catalog. I wonder if they come in a standard size that might
fit, and if you can't buy them through an RV dealer/service provider in your
area.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2015 2:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard 
Subject: Stus-List Pleated Blinds

 

Same question here for our 34+ 

Ours have issues where the plastic inside is cracking and the plastic where
snaps mount is getting pretty brittle as well.. 

I'd love to replace them all.  


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA






From: Gary Russell mailto:captnga...@gmail.com> >
To: "C&C List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Pleated Blinds
Message-ID:
 
mailto:cabgkxp+rh9748t0tjjycmvlrxkzwirc-wc8x_mpyx3wxcyu...@mail.gmail.com>
>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

The pleated window blinds / shades in my 37 Plus have seen better days.
Has anyone found appropriate replacements?  Where?

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
1990 C&C 47 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Here's why it is better to sail the gulf-side of FL

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Having worked for a forklift company that made a lot of container handling 
equipment, I can tell you what I recall.

 

5 lost containers per ship is probably not a bad guess at the average. Although 
it is not 5 containers off every ship, it is more the case of 100 containers 
off every 20th ship or 200 off every 40th. Anyhow that represents a really 
small percentage of containers shipped – maybe around 1 container lost is every 
1 or 2 thousand shipped

 

Container do sink – eventually. It depends on what is in them. Containers of 
hardware or machinery goes down in a few hours as the air leaks out (there are 
actually vent holes in newer containers for this purpose). A container of 
tennis balls or Christmas toys like dolls may float almost forever.

 

Better than 95% of container traffic is international – mostly full containers 
from SE Asia (China, for example) to North America or Europe and empties going 
back to be refilled. So most of the traffic is near shore when it approaches a 
deep water port with a container terminal. Places like Boston, Jersey City, 
Baltimore, Savannah, Miami, Long Beach, and Vancouver, and to a certain extent 
Chicago and Toronto.. Shipping between locations inland is far cheaper by rail 
or truck, so the container ports have intermodal hubs to handle transshipping 
the containers to their final destination – like a warehouse or your local 
Walmart store. Miami is a special case because a fair amount of container 
traffic gets transferred to smaller vessels and to barges for delivery to the 
various islands in the Caribbean.

 

Shipping costs are driving a trend to bigger and bigger ships and fewer and 
deeper ports. I recall reading about a plan to launch a series of container 
ships over 100,000 tons – bigger than an aircraft carrier. And there were plans 
to build a MEGA container port on the west coast of Mexico than would reduce 
shipping costs through high cost ports like Long Beach, Vancouver, and New 
Orleans. Homeland Security and others were weighing in on the Mexican plans 
because of concerns about a significant increase in cross border traffic, truck 
traffic on existing roads in the Southwest, etc.

 

Anyway, the risk of hitting a container if you are a coastal cruiser are pretty 
minimal. Unless you are in an area like SE Florida, the Chesapeake, or sail 
well out  into the ocean off the entrance to a deep water port like Long Beach 
or New York. Most of the lost container go into the water during severe storm 
well out at sea.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2015 8:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Here's why it is better to sail the gulf-side of FL

 

My information is certainly dated, but a while back my wife was consulting for 
a shipping (container) line and at that time they claimed that they regularly 
lost about 5 containers on an average Atlantic crossing. Interestingly, they 
were not overtly alarmed about it. I think, fortunately, most of these 
containers eventually sink.

 

Possibly there are some newer regulations that changed it somewhat, but I doubt.

 

Marek

1994 C270 “Legato”

Ottawa, ON

 

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List   

Sent: Wednesday, December 9, 2015 10:06 PM

To: C  &C List 

Cc: Josh Muckley   

Subject: Re: Stus-List Here's why it is better to sail the gulf-side of FL

 

I read an article years ago about semi-submerged containers.  Then can lurk 
just at the surface level and even in full daylight be almost invisible.  A 
collision with one can sink even a large private vessel in only a few minute 
with no warning.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Doyle Stack Pack or Mack Pack?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The Doyle Stack Packs I’ve seen have all had the bottom edge of the sail sewn 
into the bottom seam of the Stack Pack. And a set of sail slugs along the 
bottom of the assembly are in the grove on the top of your boom. I can’t swear 
from experience that this is true for all Doyle Stack Packs, just for the 4 or 
5 with which I have experience. I suppose you could have a shelf foot main 
inside a Stack Pack, but a loose foot sail might be problematic. I adjust the 
outhaul on my loose foot main a lot in response to wind conditions. With the 
clew of the sail sewn into the back of the Stack Pack, you would be tensioning 
or easing the sail cover as well – and I suspect that Sunbrella isn’t as 
responsive to adjustment as the Dacron of the sail.

 

My other quibble is about the height of a Stack Pack. We almost never zip up 
the covers on the 72 foot gaff schooner and the 2 Hunter 37 cutters owned by 
the charter company I sail for – only when we know the boats won’t be used for 
a fair amount of time. It is just too big a PITA to get up high enough to do 
it. Ditto for the Doyle Stack Pack on the Endeavor 35 owned by some friends; 
they have to carry a short ladder to reach up to the head of the sail when it 
is in the Stack Pack.

 

There are other brands of combination lazy-Jack-sail-covers, and different 
arrangements for mounting them.  Or you could make your own.

 

A friend just made his own by converting the sail covers on the 40 foot 
schooner he bought last spring. Zipped out the top seam of the old covers. 
Added a full length zipper, a pocket along the top of each half to hold a 
length of batten stock, and grommets in the cover in which he terminates his 
lazy jack lines. He is very happy with the arrangement and the negligible cost 
of the modifications. He has been trying to convince me to do the same on my 
boat.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2015 9:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Doyle Stack Pack or Mack Pack?

 

Josh

 

The zippers and canvas that is built into the sail

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2015 10:16 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Doyle Stack Pack or Mack Pack?

 

Mike,

I can't see anything that sets the stack pack apart from any other sail pack or 
any reason that the main would need modified.  I looked and looked at the Doyle 
website marketing (videos and text).  The only thing which seems to be "needed" 
is a loose footed mainsail.  Even that might not be mandatory.  

What are you seeing that makes you think otherwise?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Dec 10, 2015 8:55 AM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I was looking at the Doyle Stack Pack information on their web site.  It 
indicates that an existing sail can be converted to a stack pack sail.

 

Persistence came with lazy jacks (since removed but still available for 
reinstallation). Also have an older UK Tape Drive main as well as an almost new 
Quantum main.  This past season we used the older main for deliveries, everyday 
sailing and Wednesday racing and kept the new main for regattas etc …  Had 
noted a friend with aFrers 33 has a Doyle Stack Pack for deliveries and casual 
sailing and it has good enough sail shape for limited racing as well.  Have 
been considering a stack pack main at some time for cruising.

 

Has anyone here converted an existing sail to a stack pack?  Any thoughts on 
feasibility of converting an older UK Tape Drive to stack pack?  Any ideas on 
cost and if at the end of life for that sail the stack pack components can be 
used on another sail?

 

I know that the previous season we found the lazy jacks a pain that were always 
in the way and that last season with just two of us flaking the main was a 
major PITA esp when entering a narrow channel or looking to anchor.  

 

Thoughts?

 

Mike

Persistence

1987 Frers 33

Halifax, NS

 

Formerly

Nut Case 1987 J27

Full Tilt 2 1979 Hinterhoeller Niagara 26

Monkey Bear 1974 Paceship P23

Full Tilt 1970s McVay Minuette

Blue Horizon No. 1 1981 C&C 36 (family boat)

High Hopes 1979 Spirit 28 (family boat)

 


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com  
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Doyle Stack Pack or Mack Pack? - Now Dutchman

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I guess I need a bit of education from the list.

 

The boats that I have been on that have a Dutchman flaking system (which is 
only 1 or 2) have all had the top of the vertical (monofilament?) lines that 
the sail slides down attached to the topping lift.  I thought this was the 
norm. Dwight’s post implies that this isn’t true.

 

I’d considered putting a Dutchman system on Imzadi since I’m now mostly a 
cruiser, and dousing seems easy and slick without the hassles you end up with 
when you have lazy jacks and sail battens. I view the downsides of the Dutchman 
system to be the additional cost of making the sail, the fact that you need a 
topping lift (which is a PITA and seems to be tangled in the backstay every 
time you tack in light air), and you have a main with reduced roach (maybe that 
should be “you can’t maximize the roach”) because of the need for the leech to 
be under the topping lift.

 

Just what IS the normal arrangement for a Dutchman?

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight 
veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 11, 2015 8:32 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Doyle Stack Pack or Mack Pack?

 

Mike

The main sail that was on Alianna when I purchased was fitted with a Dutchman 
flaking system.  It worked OK but occasionally it would get caught up in the 
topping lift at the head of the sail 




Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

d.ve...@bellaliant.net  

 

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Cost to recover cushions - ouch

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I don’t know about the Annapolis area, but here in Eastern North Carolina that 
price would be obscene.

 

I’ve completely redone the upholstery in my 38 in the past year. Total cost 
about $1600 for the following:

 

2 v berth cushions – new 6” foam and medium brown Ultrasuede, Pfeifertex mesh 
on back

Quarter berth cushion – ditto

2  6 ft settee cushions – new 4” foam and medium brown Ultrasuede, both sides 
so they are reversible

8 box cushions for settee backs and arms – new 3” foam and nautical pattern 
upholstery material and Pfeifertex on the backs

Used some of the leftover 6” foam to make 2 bolsters to lean against when 
reading in the v berth – used leftover Ultrasuede

6 throw cushion covers made of fawn colored Ultrasuede – think of a #10 
envelope big enough to hold a pillow and with a button to hold the flap closed. 
Picked the idea up from a cruiser and use the pillows to store bed linen when 
not on the various berths.

A comforter and 2 pillow shams for the v berth in a nautical upholstery cloth 
that was originally intended for the seat backs. (I didn’t ask before buying 
what I thought was enough material to do the 8 cushions. How was I supposed to 
know to allow extra for the pattern match? Sailrite probably has a video on how 
to do it correctly. So the upholstery shop suggested making a pie shaped v 
berth throw/comforter and not letting the material go to waste.)

 

As you can tell, the sewing was done by a local shop that does upholstery and 
interior decorating. The labor was probably well under half what a boat canvas 
shop would charge. Furniture upholsterers don’t seem to care if you supply your 
own materials.

 

Bought the foam, fabric, Pfeifertex mesh, batting, and piping for the edges 
from a fabric discount store in New Bern. The stuff was also available on line 
from the same company. 

 

Another avenue you might try is to ask around among friends who are liveaboard 
cruisers. I have found that a surprising number of them have Sailrite sewing 
machines and regularly do upholstery and canvas work to feed the cruising kitty.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2015 3:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List Cost to recover cushions - ouch

 

All,

 

Just got a quote to have the cushions in the main salon - U shaped dinette and 
straight berth with back cushions- recovered in Sunbrella.​  Estimate was at 
least $2200 depending on fabric/extras.  Is that a reasonable price?  Is there 
any good way to DIY if you don't sew?


 

 

Joel 

35/3

Annapolis
301 541 8551

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 30-1 keel depth

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I don’t know, Chuck.

 

Back when I shortened the keel and added a torpedo bulb to Imzadi in 2003, we 
measured the draft as 5’3”, before she was launched. The bulb was something 
like 350 pounds more than the weight of led removed when we cut off the keel, 
so the floating draft might be a skoosh more than 5’3”.

 

About 2011 I raised the waterline by 3” and I still get crud growing along the 
edge of the bottom paint. Measured between 5’6” and 5’7” during a short haul to 
clean the bottom last summer. Which means I’ve added something like 4300 pounds 
of cruising crap like anchors, chain rode, radar, batteries, windlass, 
cabinets, etc.

 

Maybe it’s a good thing I only enter in party class or cruiser class on those 
occasions when I race her.

 

Wonder if I could get a PHRF adjustment because of the extra weight and wetted 
surface?

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2015 11:08 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Cc: Chuck S 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 keel depth

 

Hi Andrew,

I use the following method to measure draft in the boatyard.  I use a tape 
measure or folding rule and a laser level.

I use the watermark waterline on the boat's bottom paint.  I set a 2 x 4 
against the side of the boat.  Then use a laser level or a string level, to 
bring the bottom of the keel out to mark the board, and the waterline to mark 
the board, and you measure the difference to get the real draft.  

 

I found many of the designer stats were bogus.  I measured three 4' 10" draft 
boats that actually draw 5' 3" or more.   A 5" difference would suggest 5000# 
of gear aboard.   More likely the stats posted were scewed to sell more boats.

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 

  _  

From: "andrew rothweiler via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: "andrew rothweiler" mailto:andy...@att.net> >
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2015 6:49:07 PM
Subject: Stus-List 30-1 keel depth

 

Thank you to all for the great responses.  I went back to Sailboatdata and 
there it was, the very last line at the bottom of the page, shoal keel 4 ft 2.  
The owner says he thinks it's the deep keel, but doesn't think it's as deep as 
5 ft.  Not sure where 4 ft 7 comes from.

 

What is the proper way to measure keel depth?  Is it waterline to bottom of 
keel?

 

Thanks again.


___

 

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com  
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

 

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

My 38 was originally built with an A4. There are 2 4” cowl vents on the 
transom, with 4” ventilation hose routed into the engine space. There are 2 
blowers similar to the ones that Marek identified in his post mounted under the 
cockpit sole; one of these is routed to push fresh air into the engine space, 
the other to extract air. The inlet hose was terminated above the engine and 
fuel tank. The outlet hose was routed to the bottom of the engine space and 
just aft of the engine. Both blowers are wired to the same switch on the 
breaker panel, so they work at the same time to move air.

 

I now have a diesel, and a refrigeration compressor/condenser mounted on the 
forward bulkhead of the cockpit locker to starboard of the engine. In order to 
maximize airflow to the condenser (while still circulating air in the engine 
space), I have rerouted the inlet hose (cool air?) to near the bottom of the 
condenser, and the outlet hose under the side deck above the condenser. One of 
these days I may wire the blowers so they go on and off with the refrigeration 
compressor, but for the time being they are still on the same switch on the 
panel and must be manually activated.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2015 1:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle 
Subject: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

 

Hey all, 

I'm looking for input on a good blower installation on my 1976 C&C 30 mki.  I'm 
almost through rewiring my entire boat and I'm up to replacing the blower.  I 
removed the the old unit because the fan motor was dead.  Judging by the look 
of it, it may have been original.  

The flexible hoses were connected to nothing, so I'm not exactly sure how it 
was originally hooked up.  Although I surmise it exhausted through one of the 
two dorade vents on the transom.  I assume the other dorade vent is used to 
just allow outside air into the engeine compartment - since there is nothing 
hooked up to that. 

I'm curious what the original blower/air inlet setup was on a 30 mki, and I'm 
I'm looking for the safest and most effective way to clear my engine 
compartment of gasoline fumes.  

Also, if anyone has opinions on the proper size (in CFM) of the blower(s) and 
the proper diameter of the flexible tubing I'd love to hear it.

 

Thanks!

 

On Wed, Dec 23, 2015 at 12:00 PM, mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
cnc-list@cnc-list.com  

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com  

You can reach the person managing the list at
cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com  

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Anchor locker lid attachment (Robert Boyer)


--

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2015 10:11:11 -0500
From: Robert Boyer mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com> >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: "svpegasu...@gmail.com  " 
mailto:svpegasu...@gmail.com> >, jda...@gmail.com 
 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment
Message-ID: <4d4285ee-cf88-4390-aeb3-c712347f9...@icloud.com 
 >
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

My anchor locker lid on my LF38 is cored and it uses piano hinges.  So, in 1983 
that was the standard in the Rhode Island plant.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com  
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com  

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

> On Dec 23, 2015, at 12:20 AM, svpegasu...@gmail.com 
>   via CnC-List   > wrote:
>
> Patrick, I redid my anchor locker hatch and don't remember any coring. Except 
> on the hatch its self. I cut the hatch in half when I installed my windlass. 
> I have 2 strap hinges on each half, with each one opening outboard.
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> svPegasus
> LF38
> just west of Ballard, WA.
>
>
> -- Original message--
> From: Patrick Davin via CnC-List
> Date: Tue, Dec 22, 2015 10:54
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  ;
> Cc: Patrick Davin;
> Subject:Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment
>
> Next up on my winter project list: reinforcing the anchor locker lid 
> attachment.
>
> C&C

Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOW FUEL CHARACTERISTICS

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The geek in me just has to jump in here with some technical information. So 
here goes:

 

Yes, Rick, vaporized diesel will blow up like vaporized gasoline.

 

And Yes, Patrick, diesel does not vaporize easily. And is a lot less likely to 
support a flame than Gasoline as well.

 

The flash point (lowest temperature at which a liquid starts to evaporate) of 
Gasoline is -45 to -50 degrees F (-60 C, I think). The flash point of #2 diesel 
is 126 F (52 C). Biodiesel, BTW, is about 225 F so if you use B10 or B15 in 
your boat the flash point of the fuel would be higher.

 

The ignition concentration of a fuel vapor is the percent of fuel vs air that 
will support ignition. Too low a concentration or too high a concentration and 
you get no fire. That is why (if you are very lucky and not too bright, you can 
throw a lit match into a bowl of gasoline and nothing happens. For gasoline the 
range is 1.4% to 7.6%.  Diesel is pretty similar at 0.6% to 7.5%.

 

The ignition point (temperature at which it will start burning) of gas and 
diesel are also very similar. Gas is 475 F, and diesel is 494 F.

 

But gasoline is much more volatile, and at much lower temperatures. So you are 
likely to find gasoline vapor vs. diesel vapor.  Any fuel leak at above -45 F 
will result in gasoline vapor. A diesel leak will just make a  puddle unless 
the temperature is above 126 F. Yes, it would be a smelly puddle, but your nose 
can sense vapor concentrations far below the concentration that would support 
ignition.

 

Since the density of the gasoline vapor is about 2.0 (air is by definition 1.0) 
at standard temperature and pressure (70 F and sea level), the combustible 
vapor sinks to the bottom of your bilge. Diesel vapor would do the same thing, 
except a measurable concentration of diesel vapor could not exist at STP. Even 
high pressure diesel forced out of a pinhole leak in one of your injector lines 
is more likely to result in a smelly mist (too high a concentration to support 
ignition) than in a combustible fuel vapor.

 

The flash point indicates when a liquid starts to evaporate. But there is 
another specification called the fire point that is probably a better 
illustration of the relative risk from gasoline vs. diesel. The fire point is 
the temperature at which a liquid fuel will generate a vapor concentration high 
enough to support a flame for 5 seconds – which is enough time to cause 
significant evaporation of the liquid and start a real  fire (as opposed to a 
momentary flash). Liquid gasoline has a fire point of 30 F (-1 C), while liquid 
diesel is 154 F (68 C).

 

So unless you are boating in some really ridiculous heat, you are unlikely to 
get a fire from diesel fuel. Lots of smell – which may make a blower to 
ventilate the engine spaces very desirable – but a fire is not a high 
probablility event.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Patrick 
Davin via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2015 10:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Patrick Davin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

 

Diesel doesn't vaporize easily, unlike gasoline. That's one of its big 
advantages on boats, that it's non-volatile. It's good practice to shut down 
the engine at the fuel dock anyway, but they're probably asking that more as a 
general policy due to the gasoline boats they fill (or in case some gasoline 
vapors wafted over to your boat). 

 

The flash point (vaporization temp) of diesel is 126 F: 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flash_point#Examples

 

There's a good writeup on engine blowers here: 
http://www.unitedmarine.net/blog/index.php/2013/01/30/who-needs-engine-room-blowers/

 

On Mon, Dec 28, 2015 at 6:09 AM, mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

-- Forwarded message --
From: Rick Rohwer mailto:rickroh...@gmail.com> >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: 
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2015 22:16:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

I am pretty sure vaporized diesel will blow up like gasoline vapor.  I know 
vaporized cooking fat will.  Don’t most of the fuel docks ask you to shut down 
the engine and run the fan while fueling? 

 

I had never thought of it as an air supply for the engine.  

 

Rick

Paikea 37+

Poulsbo, WA

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOW FUEL CHARACTERISTICS

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

You’re right, Joe. 

 

That isn’t an example of an explosive vapor ignited by a spark, but rather a 
liquid mist being heated above the 494 F ignition point of the liquid. And 
that’s not a situation that a blower would help avoid.

 

Rick

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 2:11 PM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOW FUEL 
CHARACTERISTICS

 

The typical diesel fire scenario is a high pressure fuel leak spraying on a red 
hot exhaust or turbo component.

 

Joe

Coquina

 

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Stus List - Raymarine Combo on sale again

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I agree that it is a “what’s important to you” issue, but for me the weight 
aloft isn’t a real concern. The antenna weighs 10-15 pounds and up near the 
second spreader would be 35 feet off the deck. I don’t see that as all that 
significant because I don’t race any more.

 

For me the tradeoff is maximum range (having the antenna high gets you out over 
the horizon so you can get 16, 24, or more miles of range) vs the ability to 
see things close by (like channel markers less than ¼ mile away) when entering 
a harbor or negotiating a fog bank. The high mounted antenna looks over the top 
of the smaller targets that are close in. The low mount antenna sees the close 
in targets better, but at the expense of limiting the range at which you see 
shorter targets like small boats or low lying shores.

 

I have a 16 mile radar, with the antenna mounted on a pole supported by a radar 
arch, and the antenna is about 14 feet above the water. From that height the 
horizon is only about 4.5 NM, and I can see a medium sized fishing boat at 
about 7 or 8 miles. A freighter is taller so I can pick it up farther away.  
But more important for me, I can see channel markers inside of ¼ mile away.

 

If the antenna were 30 or 35 feet above the water, I’d probably pick up the 
fishing boat at near 16 miles, but the radar beam would just pass over the top 
of the channel markers and not return an echo.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 2:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus List - Raymarine Combo on sale again

 

Mike,

 

As I understand it, that’s one of those “what’s more important to you” choices. 
The radar will “see” more at the top of the mast, but having that much weight 
aloft will affect sailing performance. 

 

Personally, I’d go with the stern pole. That way, if you need to fix anything, 
it doesn’t involve a mast climb. 

 

Going to the NY show as well on the Sunday. Hope to run into you and other 
C&C’ers. 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  

 






 






 

On Dec 29, 2015, at 2:23 PM, Headgorilla via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Thanks for discussing the Raymarine equipment, I am going into the NY boat show 
next week to see my electronics people and probably but a package due to all 
the rebates and discounts they offer, so I appreciate your experience on this 
subjectI am listening.

 

One Question: where the best spot to mount the Radar antenna, on the Mast? or 
off a pole on the stern?

 

Mike Dolan

1979 34' C&C "Skywalker"

Southold, NY

 

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Automatic bilge pump switch help

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I have a 1250 GPH Johnson cartridge pump on Imzadi, similar to these: 
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/johnson-pump--automatic-submersible-bilge-pumps--P011006897
 . Johnson also makes the West Marine pumps available in my local store.

 

All of these come with a check valve that is a small rubber cone similar to the 
joker valve in your head. It installs in the threaded “hose fitting” that is 
used to connect the hose to the pump, or it can be left out and an o-ring 
included with the pump can be used to seal the “hose fitting”. The float switch 
turns on when the water is 2” deep, and turns off at ¾”- the downside being 
that there is normally a bit of water in the bottom of the bilge. My biggest 
reason for buying this particular pump was the removable pump cartridge motor. 
You simply lift the plastic retainer ion the outside of the pump body and take 
the motor and impeller out. Makes cleaning gunk out of the pump (and replacing 
the motor) really easy. And changing the pump in the small bilge area of my 38 
can be a real b*_^#h.

 

The switch comes attached to the base of the pump, but can be removed and 
located separately. That is what I had to do because of the limited area in my 
bilge. Upside is the switch is a shade lower than the pump, so the standing 
water in the bilge is more like 3/8” to ½”.

 

>From the initial installation in 2009-2010 until I replaced the pump motor 
>last summer, I had ignored the conventional wisdom and had the check valve 
>installed. Never had a problem except the occasional need to clean the dog 
>hair and other gunk that migrates into the bilge over time. (Which problem was 
>identified when the pump ran longer than 10 or 15 seconds to clear out the 
>bilge.)

 

But conventional wisdom must have some basis – so last summer I took the check 
valve out. Like Dennis’s, my pump spurts for a few seconds and stops. But then 
the water in 10 or 15 feet of ¾” hose starts to drain back into the bilge. 
After a couple of minutes, the pump spurts and stops. Repeat cycle. The bilge 
is normally pretty dry, so my temporary solution this fall was to just turn the 
pump off and about once every week or two to turn the switch to automatic, let 
the pump do its thing for one cycle, and live with the water in the bilge.

 

This conversation has reminded me that it is time, while I’m doing other 
projects on the boat this winter, to put the check valve back into the hose.

 

Oh, and BTW, a diaphragm pump by definition has a flapper (check) valve on the 
outlet side of the pump plus one in the inlet.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2016 7:28 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Automatic bilge pump switch help

 

Despite the "conventional wisdom" against check valves in bilge discharges, 
I've had one in Touche' for a decade and a half with no issues whatsoever.  

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Source for Sturgeron?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I was self-insured for a couple of years and bought all the ethical meds for my 
girlfriend and myself at Canada Drugs Online. 
https://www.canadadrugsonline.com/sitemap.aspx I always found them to be very 
service oriented and easy to work with.

 

She took Effexor, at a cost of just under $300 a month at the local Walgreens. 
Canada Drug online was about $165 per month, and the drug they sent us was 
manufactured in New Jersey by the same company as the pills from Walgreens. 
Turns out the generic, available in Canada at $80 per month but not available 
in the US, was also made by the same drug company as the name brand drug.

 

I take two kinds of insulin – Novalog and Levemir. Canada Drug Online was about 
$300 per month for either. Now I am on Medicare, and the retail price is just 
over $800 per month for one of the drugs and almost $950 for the other. Which 
is the Medicare approved price.

 

Canadian mail order pharmacies are regulated by the Canadian government, just 
like the FDA regulates the mail order pharmacy I use for my Medicare drug 
company. Except in Canada both the drug and the price must get approval, and 
pricing considers a “reasonable” return on investment.

 

I’ll get off my soap box. And to keep this sailing related, I hadn’t thought 
about getting Sturgeon from Canada Drugs Online, but I’m glad you gave me the 
idea. I need to replace the old scopolamine in my med kit and supplement the 
Bonine that is in there now.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2016 2:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List Source for Sturgeron?

 

Has anyone in the US found a legit on-line pharmacy?  I don't want to buy salt 
tablets - or worse - from a random online pharmacy.

 

I already have scopalamine patches, foam ear plugs (they work!), zofran, 
phernergan suppositories and ginger gum in the kit.  Might as well complete it!


 

-- 

Joel 

35/3

The Office

Annapolis
301 541 8551

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Standard Horizon GX2200

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

$260 net is a very attractive price. I have a GX2100 with AIS, but GPS is not 
built in. Mine is connected to the plotter at my helm, with the plotter feeding 
the GPS data and displaying the AIS information. I like the system very well 
(though the repeated AIS warnings when you are in certain parts of the ICW or 
in a crowded harbor like Norfolk or Charleston can be a PITA). The display on 
the radio itself is pretty small and hard to read. But display on the larger 
chart plotter screen is very good.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bobmor99 . 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2016 6:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bobmor99 . 
Subject: Stus-List Standard Horizon GX2200

 

Currently I just day-sail with minimal electronics (VHF, GPS, and cellphone - 
all hand-held) but am looking to do some coastal cruising (US Southeast) within 
the next year. I am looking at the GX2200 as a nice addition.

The GPS Store has it for $300 plus a $40 mail in rebate.
 
http://www.thegpsstore.com/Standard-Horizon-GX2200-Matrix-AIS-with-GPS-P3968.aspx

Thoughts and opinions appreciated as always.


--Bob Moriarty

Ox 1976 33-1

Jax, FL

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List What's a Loud Hailer?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Colregs rule 2 makes yelling “Hey you, get outta the way” a waste of breath. I 
suppose yelling at another racer (Starboard! Idiot!) or the occasional race 
committee might be a satisfying addition to a red flag. But I never really felt 
the need for a loudhailer.

 

And if I am in a literal fog (as opposed to the mental ones that seem to plague 
me with increasing frequency as I get older), I have a proper ships bell for 
making sound signals.

 

But I have to admit the automated sound signals built into the SH radio did 
motivate me to buy a speaker for the boat. Tell the radio what size your boat 
is and what the situation is (fog, aground) and the radio generates the proper 
sound signal at the proper interval. Cool.  Mine horn is the SH 240 series, 
rather than the 310. Haven’t gotten around to actually installing it on the 
radar pole and getting it wired in yet. Darn, another winter project for the 
list.

 

The 310 looks more like a remote speaker in the cockpit so you can monitor a 
radio down below. My GX2100 is in the cockpit, and I have never found the need 
for an additional speaker (unlike a couple of the Raymarine radios I have had 
in the past).

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bobmor99 . 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2016 7:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bobmor99 . 
Subject: Stus-List What's a Loud Hailer?

 

Sort of a companion thread to my GX2200 post. Is a loud hailer used to audibly 
state one's position - or else, maybe to shout, "Hey you, get outta the way!". 
Is an additional speaker needed, e.g. 
http://www.thegpsstore.com/Standard-Horizon-MLS-310-External-Speaker-Black-P3035.aspx
Never been in the fog (on the water).


Thanks in advance,


--Bob Moriarty

Ox 1976 33-1

Jax, FL

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List VHF / AIS

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I hear what you are saying, Fred. And I have to agree.

 

Imzadi has a fixed mount VHF at the helm and also a separate fixed mount at the 
nav station. Each is connected to a GPS (the one at the helm is the Garmin 
chartplotter), and each has a dedicated antenna.

 

While I like the redundancy, the real reasons I have 2 fixed mount VHFs are: 

1) a handheld only has a range of a couple of miles on a good day, and 

2) around 50 years of boating experience has led me to the conviction that a 
handheld radio is a holder for dead batteries.

 

For not much more than the cost of the $139 RAM mike you could install a fairly 
good SH VHF radio and a dedicated antenna. And neither would ever fall 
overboard.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 08, 2016 12:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List VHF / AIS

 

First, has anyone ever lost overboard something that wasn’t firmly attached to 
the boat?  And secondly, has anyone gone to use a piece of rechargeable 
battery-powered electronics, only to find that the battery was dead?  Neither 
of these scenarios apply to a hard-wired remote mic like the S-H or the Icom.

 

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Was Jib sheet - now buying sheets and halyards

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Joel makes a good point.

 

The genoa sheets on my 38 are 7/16”. One set are StaSet, the other are a fuzzy 
braid Dacron from Cajun Trading. My headsail is almost as much sail area as 
your whole rig. So 7/16ths is bigger than you need. 3/8” StaSet or equivalent 
would be better, and less expensive. Remember that you want a bit of stretch in 
your sheets to ease the shock of sudden gusts. You might also want to think 
about a synthetic line that floats. I think Yale makes a floating single braid 
that is made of Dacron and synthetic like Dyneema called PHD Cruiser that might 
be appropriate. 

 

Your traveler leads are 4X length of the track plus 4 or 5 feet for a tail so 
it can be adjusted. So 25-26 feet is probably about right. As Joel points out, 
5/16ths will be easier on your hands and easier to grip. Since your traveler 
line, at 4:1, will only have a couple hundred pounds of tension at most, an 
inexpensive Yachtbraid will be fine.

 

Regarding the length of the sheets: 1.5 x LOA is a pretty good rule. One of my 
sets is that length, and frankly I wish it was 5’ longer so there would be some 
extra length for tailing. You LOA is 29.6’, so 44 or 45 feet is the recommended 
length.

 

Let’s calculate what you need and see if you BF is right. Your J is almost 13’, 
so the clew of your 155 is about 6 ½’ behind the mast.

You need 6.5’ to get forward to the mast,

6’ to get around the mast and shroud (remember it is the lazy sheet so you want 
some slack)

About 18’ gets you to the turning block  

Another 4’ to get up to the winch and take a couple of wraps

And another 8 feet or so as a cushion and to leave some length for tailing.

Total length, which is pretty much a minimum, is about 42.5’

 

So your BF is sorta right.

 

But get 45’ – or maybe even 50’ for the reasons previously listed by Dennis and 
others on the list.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2016 9:04 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Was Jib sheet - now buying sheets and halyards

 

Id use 3/8 for the sheets. If you have self trailers make sure you have the 
right diameter line for the winches. 5/16 might be easier on the hands for the 
traveler. 

 

Joel

On Sunday, January 10, 2016, Sophia Weber via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

What is the best length to get? I've read the 1.5x LOA rule, but my boyfriend 
is arguing that is too long. Looking to get new jib sheets (7/16"?)‎ and also a 
line for my new Harken windward sheeting traveler system for which I have a 
1.5m track and want to do a 4:1 purchase (1/4"? - 26 ft?)

Sophia
1978 C&C29 MK1
NYC Toronto

  Original Message  
From: Dennis C.‎
Sent: Thursday, January 7, 2016 14:02‎
To: CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List Was Jib sheet - now buying sheets and halyards

I really don't get why owners don't buy extra length when getting new
sheets and halyards. The extra line in a cockpit isn't usually a big deal
if you have sheet bags.

Just like Joel says, you can cut some off the sheet to move the wear
points.

When I bought my latest set of jib sheets, I bought extra length and had
eyes put on each end. I use soft shackles so I need eyes. I can end for
end it if it is damaged near an end.

I had bought extra length on a spin halyard. When it got damaged near the
shackle end, I pulled it, cut off the damaged portion, put an eye in the
other end and re-used it. Saved me $100 bucks for a new halyard.

You can put an eye splice in a line as long as it hasn't been loaded. Once
it's loaded, it is difficult to make the eye.

Generally, you can't put eyes on both ends of a halyard because the eye
often won't pass through the masthead sheaves.

IMHO, spending an extra 10% on a sheet or halyard is good insurance against
having to replace it entirely.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




On Thu, Jan 7, 2016 at 10:38 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com  > wrote:

> I use 7/16 Sta-Set on my 35/3. These is some stretch when close hauled,
> but a click or two on the winch once the sail is loaded takes care of it.
>
> Most of the wear comes from where the line goes around the winch when
> close hauled. With separate sheets you can reverse the sheets when they
> wear. Buy them 5 feet longer and you can cut off a couple feet and extend
> the life even more.
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
>

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com  
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com