Stus-List Zebra muscles

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Good day everyone. 
Well they're here now and our government is already planning aggressive 
treatments as zebra muscles have been found in our harbour. The treatment will 
shut down 4 of our commercial harbours on Lake Winnipeg, knock out our fishing 
fleets for most of May and June and offset our recreational schedule. This 
prescription calls for liquid potash to be pumped into the harbours. 
This seems like a scary alternative as potash is the 3rd major crop nutrient 
after nitrogen and phosphorus and Lake Winnipeg already has a giant blue green 
algae problem thanks to field runoff etc.  It sounds like they are only going 
to be postponing the inevitable and causing additional problems along the way. 
For the sailors living on the Great Lakes and have been dealing with zebra 
muscles for years, what sort of personal impact have you had with your 
sailboats cooling systems, sanitary systems etc. Also what local treatments 
have you seen?  

Thanks
Brent Driedger
27-5
s/v Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg

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Re: Stus-List Original Invoice Prices

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

My original bill of sale was in the build file I bought from Southshore. On 
March 9, 1984 an order to C&C from DK yachts in Winnipeg for a White 27-5 with 
Bering blue stripes. The timing would have made it a boat show order. The 
"basic boat" was $28,950 plus $8,255 in optional equipment. Total, $37,205
There's hand writing on the contract showing $30,441. Dealer discounts perhaps. 
The list shows all the equipment with the biggest cost going to the little 
Yanmar at $4900. That's a lot of 1984 money!
The boat was shipped to Winnipeg on June 28,  1984. 
The most interesting notes is from one of the shop guys in hand writing.  It 
says that loops glassed to the hull used for mould extraction are causing 
spider cracks. A solution to relocate the loops was made.  As mine was hull #15 
I guess they were still tweaking production. 
The quality control pages make up a large part of the document. Very detailed.  

Brent Driedger
27-5
Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg. 


Sent from my iPhone

> On May 15, 2014, at 9:09 AM, Ron's Hardwood via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I would like to hear from some of the owners of the older C&C boats to find 
> out the original invoice prices of their boats. I think that it will be very 
> interesting for us to go back in time and compare the original prices to 
> today’s current value to see the actual depreciation over a long period of 
> time.
>  
> I just received my third survey on Alchemist, a 1986 C&C 29 Mk 2. 14 years 
> ago it was valued at $40,000.00, 6 years ago $24,000.00 and today $18,000.00. 
> The interesting thing is that I put in about $15,000.00 over the last few 
> years in new sails, feathering propeller, instruments, rebuilt engine and 
> transmission, and other incidentals.  
>  
> My cost per sail is actually quite reasonable. If I take into consideration 
> my annual club costs, repairs & maintenance, insurance, replacement of racing 
> sails, fuel, depreciation,  etc. divided by the number of sails a year (about 
> 65 times) my costs are about $100.00 per sail. There are many boats on the 
> lake that only leave the dock a few times a year with costs that are similar 
> to mine so their cost per sail is significantly higher.
>  
> Ron Ander
> E.Y.C.
> Toronto
>  
> 
> 
> __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature 
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Re: Stus-List Luxury yacht sinks on launch

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Keel fell off!  Oh it never gets old. 

Brent Driedger
27-5

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 22, 2014, at 10:16 AM, William Hall via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Somebody must've flushed really hard??
> 
> 
>> On Thu, May 22, 2014 at 9:05 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Got love this one:  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Notice anything strange about the picture they used for the story?
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
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> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> William D. Hall, Ph.D.
> 203 653 2886 (o)
> 617 620 9078 (c)
> wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Stus-List swan

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

This is a little off topic but somehow we can make this C&C related. Why do 
Nautor Swan sailboats cost so much money?  I understand they're very well built 
boats however a 35-year-old Swan still costs over 20 times more than a C&C of 
comparable size. Blisters and all!

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg
( will never afford a swan)

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Re: Stus-List butyl cleanup?

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Butyl cleans up easiest when it's cold. Get it early in the morning or go 
offshore for a while. Long Olfa knife blades and patience. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 1, 2014, at 3:18 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Planning on cleaning and painting the storage areas on our 30-1. The 
> wonderfully immortal butyl hull/deck sealant has dripped and drooped in many 
> places. Any tips on the best cleanup strategy?
> 
> (PS. It was gusting 30-35 knots and 86F in the marina Sunday, but half a mile 
> out our neighbors reported 40 degrees F and that their winter parkas were not 
> enough so they came back in)
> 
> Nate
> "Sarah Jean"
> 1980 30-1
> Siskiwit Bay Marina
> Lake Superior
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Re: Stus-List 1967 C&C 41' Yawl?

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

She is lovely. 
C&C meets S&S. Very classy boat. But if ones in the market for this age and 
style it's hard to pass up on an Alberg. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 3, 2014, at 2:13 PM, mjgovo--- via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> This one was discussed in about a year ago when it first came up for sale.
> 
> 
> Sent from XFINITY Connect Mobile App
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> 
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com,ronkaye...@gmail.com
> Cc: 
> Sent: 2014-07-01 11:26:03 GMT
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1967 C&C 41' Yawl?
> 
> Ron,
> 
> She does look nice, but you are talking about a 47 year old yawl.  There is a 
> pretty small pool of buyers out there for that boat.
> 
> I'm surprised to see 286 C&C's listed on Yachtworld.  Would have guessed way 
> lower.
> 
> Joel
> 
> 
>> On Tue, Jul 1, 2014 at 11:16 AM, Ron Kaye via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> If this was discussed I somehow missed it. 1967 C&C Yawl for 35k.
>> Looks beautiful but they seem to be having difficulty selling.
>> What's wrong with this picture?
>> 
>> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/category/type/C&C/41+Yawl
>> 
>> 
>> Ron
>> 
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> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Talk some sense into me please!

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Consider your slip fees. They go up as the size increases. 
Every time I prep the bottom of my boat I'm thankful it's only 27 feet. 
Anti-fouling paint is pricy and you'll more than double the amount needed and 
4x the time involved. Substantial upgrades on a 30 vs a 42 are easier. Consider 
replacing #21 2 speed Barient winches with self trailers for $700 each vs $2000 
a piece for the ones for the landfall. Beautiful boat but really make sure you 
can afford all aspects before jumping in, otherwise you will despise it and 
never achieve that special love affair we all share. 
I can't say with any first hand knowledge but I would think riding out a storm 
on the 42 would be a lot more comfortable than a 30 but as others have said if 
you are learning how to sail, the smaller boat will make you a better sailor. A 
well set up 30 can be singlehanded even with a spinnaker but I'm not sure if 
anyone does any solo kite flying on a LF 42
Whatever you decide you're sailing and that's what counts. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Stormy Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 7, 2014, at 9:22 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Ryan,
> Keep the 30 to learn and daysail and race.  Buy the 42 to cruise with a gang 
> or live aboard.  You're young.  You can handle both.  "Easy payments."   
> 
> 2nd tip:  Marry rich.
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
> To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
> Sent: Friday, July 4, 2014 1:59:48 PM
> Subject: Stus-List Talk some sense into me please!
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I am a new owner of a 1973 C&C 30 Mk1. I have fallen in a love with the brand 
> of C&C and am really enjoying sailing even though I have only owned the boat 
> a couple months.
> 
> I am a single 31 year old guy, but I have been thinking a 35-45 footer may 
> have been a better move. There was a 1980 42' foot Landfall sent to me for 
> about the same about of money that I have into my 30 footer!
> 
> What is every one's thoughts and advice? I am trying to temper my 
> impulsiveness and just learn on and enjoy my 30' to make sure its a 
> sport/lifestyle/hobby for me but dangling the Landfall in front of me for 
> such a great price is tempting!!!
> 
> Warm Regards,
> 
> 
> Ryan S. Beckett
> Partner & Co-Founder
> 561.301.6337 mobile
>  
> 
> 
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Stus-List Tiller

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

The tiller on my 27-V is on its last legsI'm going to replace it this 
winter and want to know the best place to order a new one from. It's design 
splits toward the aft end to hug the rudder and I don't see anything like it on 
stock shops. So custom is going to be the order of the day. How about 
composite?  No more maintenance. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

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Re: Stus-List Tiller

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Hi Bill this is likely the route I will go. One of my crew is a fine woodwork 
carpenter. I've approached him already. 
I cant do anything with the old one. It was rough 6 years ago when I bought the 
boat, so much so th PO Had an aluminum reinforcement made for it, kind of a 
frame that takes the majority of the load from the weakest area of the tiller. 
Even though the ends have rotted, this bracket has allowed me to run it further 
than. I'm comfortable with. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 9, 2014, at 5:09 AM, Bill Bina via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> When mine got damaged by being twisted with great force, I did quite a bit of 
> asking around at places that advertise that they can make replacements for 
> any tiller. None would do it. So I did it myself. Bought some teak and sliced 
> it into 3/8" thick strips. Built a jig to form the shape and laminated the 4 
> strips clamped in the jig using West System 205 resin, a little 405 filler 
> powder, and the SLOW 206 hardener. For gluing wood, you want the epoxy to 
> cure slowly so it has a chance to really seep into the wood grain. Lots of 
> clamps! The spacer at the back end is just some strips glued up into a block. 
> The only design change I made was to extend the grip end by 4 inches. The 
> reason for that was because the hiking stick on the original was mounted 
> about an inch from the end, and I could not fit my hand in front of it. I 
> also filled in the narrowest part of the split with thickened epoxy as I 
> always found that narrow pointy gap a problem when refinishing. I think I 
> have some pictures
  of the process. I'll look tonight and see if I can find them. I did consider 
making it from aluminum, but that tiller is one of the few pieces of teak on 
the boat, and it matters to the overall look of the boat.
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
> 
>> On 7/9/2014 1:10 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List wrote:
>> The tiller on my 27-V is on its last legsI'm going to replace it this 
>> winter and want to know the best place to order a new one from. It's design 
>> splits toward the aft end to hug the rudder and I don't see anything like it 
>> on stock shops. So custom is going to be the order of the day. How about 
>> composite?  No more maintenance.
>> 
>> Brent Driedger
>> 27-5
>> Lake Winnipeg.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
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>> 
>> .
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Tiller

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Yes there are less than perfect options available. I really like the look of 
the original unit. C&C cut every corner on cost with the MkV (compared to 
previous mks) but somehow spent money on this really slick tiller. I'd prefer 
it look original when I'm done. 
I looked at the website last night. Good to know they can build me a rudder if 
I destroy mine. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 9, 2014, at 9:03 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> It was several years ago (2006?) when I looked for someone to custom build 
> this unusual tiller, and I believe ruddercraft was one of the places that 
> either said they couldn't do it, or lost my email address after I sent them a 
> photo of what it was I needed. 
> 
> Obviously, you could replace the tiller with a more conventinal one of the 
> correct width, using conventional metal sideplates to attach it to the 
> rudder, but that all wood wishbone tiller is a styling hallmark of the 27-5. 
> The custom builders that did respond all said that they could make one of the 
> right dimensions with metal sideplates that would "work". 
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
> 
>> On 7/9/2014 9:43 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List wrote:
>> Rudder craft can custom make one though not cheap.  
>> http://www.ruddercraft.com/catalog/index.php.  Jerry. C&C 27v.  
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
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Re: Stus-List bonding strap question

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

What is the reason for not using braid. Wild Rover has fat-assed welding cables 
routing from the chainplates to the keel with the pre-requisite tongue in cheek 
90 degree bends from the factory. I kid of course, they are  long radius bends.

Brent D
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

On Jul 13, 2014, at 10:40 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Welcome to the C&C BDSM List . . . 
> 
> 
>   All the best,
> 
>   Edd
> 
> 
>   Edd M. Schillay
>   Starship Enterprise
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>   City Island, NY 
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> On Jul 13, 2014, at 11:25 AM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Leather works well for bondage. 
> 
> Rich
> 
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Re: Stus-List Shallows and deep draft

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

We have a Laser 28 in our harbour. She's gotta be the fastest well equipped 
cruising 28 foot boat ever!
Good luck to your son. 

Brent D
27-5

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 14, 2014, at 8:41 AM, Chris Price via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Chuck, many of the anchorages we visit will accommodate 6'3". While you may 
> not be able to go all the way into Swan Creek, you can certainly enter and 
> pick up a mooring at Swan Creek Marina. Corsica is great and Reed Creek next 
> door is challenging whether you draw 5'3" or 6'3". We overnighted in Harris 
> Creek last Sunday off the Choptank, but you'd need to sail around Blackwalnut 
> Point since Knapp's Narrows has shoaled.Our depth sounder is still not 
> working under power, despite trying Bill Bina's suggestion of turning on 
> incandescent lights, so any mooring is a challenge for us! I guess I'm just 
> saying don't totally exclude the Easter Shore.
> 
> By the way, just got back yesterday from picking up a nice Laser 28 from Des 
> Moines, IA with my son. He's taking it to Somers Point today to sail in 
> Atlantic City Race Week. He should do well, but it means one less J24 to race.
> 
> Chris Price
> Pradel
> 35 Mk I
> 
> 
> From: "Chuck S via CnC-List" 
> To: "Joe Della Barba" , "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
> 
> Sent: Friday, July 11, 2014 6:20:09 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Shallows and deep draft
> 
> Gotta visit Corsica River one of these weekends.
> My crew seems more focused on anchoring out, swims, kayaking, and sightseeing 
> close to Broad Creek.
> We will explore more as we get used to this new to us way of cruising.
> 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
> To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
> Sent: Friday, July 11, 2014 5:41:10 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Shallows and deep draft
> 
> Coquina was not purchased because we needed the shallow draft, she was 
> purchased because the previous owners moved to Barnaget Bay and had only 
> about 4 feet at their dock. They bought a centerboard C&C, a Corvette IIRC. 
> Coquina spent 12 years on the Magothy and then another 12 on the Severn 
> before coming to the Shore. Your boat would be able to use our marina about 
> 2/3s of the time this year. I think anything except right at low tide would 
> work. Some years when the dredging is late we cannot get out at normal low 
> tide. This year it has to be a NorthWester to be too shallow. This year I can 
> use Kent Narrows again. Last year anything over 4 feet was very risky.
> OTOH 9 feet would be fine at my mooring, but that is a half hour drive 
> upstream and then 12 miles back downstream to get back out.
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> j...@dellabarba.com
> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
> From: Chuck S [mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net] 
> Sent: Friday, July 11, 2014 4:11 PM
> To: j...@dellabarba.com; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
> Subject: Re: Shallows and deep draft
>  
> I agree Joe. 
> That's why Magothy is heaven for my me and our 6'3" draft, most places 12 to 
> 18 ft and from my perspective, my boat is fine, your side of the bay is too 
> shallow for us.  Can't change that.  I respect your choice but prefer mine 
> for me and not trying to convince anyone to change theirs.  It's good they 
> make different flavors.  
>  
>  
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>  
> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
> To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
> Sent: Friday, July 11, 2014 11:02:19 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats?
>  
> None of those boats could get close to my slip nor go many of the places I 
> go. They would be aground in my slip, aground in the marina channel, aground 
> in Swan Creek, aground in Kent Narrows, aground in Fog Cove, aground in 
> Knapps Narrows, etc….
> Joe Della Barba
> j...@dellabarba.com
>  
> Coquina
> C&C 35 MK I
>  
>  
> From: Chuck S [mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net] 
> Sent: Friday, July 11, 2014 10:39 AM
> To: j...@dellabarba.com; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
> Subject: Re: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats?
>  
> FWIW, I notice deeper water exists on the Western Shore of the Chesapeake, 
> while shallower waters are on the Eastern Shore.  A keel a foot deeper can 
> lighten a 35ft boat by 1000 pounds which plays a bigger role in lighter 
> winds, when racing.  Light displacement is not so important where it's windy 
> or if you're motoring to gunkhole destinations more than sailing. 
>  
> A deep fin protects the rudder, is shorter and thinner, and when you run 
> aground, you slimply motor back out or spin her off.  The old Navy Luders 
> Yawls drew 8ft.  The newer Navy 44 by Pedrick draw 7.25'.  There are a few 
> TP52s at Bert Jabin's yard that draw 10 or 12ft.  Just sayin.   
>  
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>  
> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
> To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
> Sent: Friday, July 11, 2014 9:40:49 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats?
>

Re: Stus-List Barient 19 winch.

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Stick something long and skinny in the handle hole and push down as you pull up 
on the winch body. If my 18s are the same this will work for you. 

Brent D
27-5
Lake Winnipeg 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 17, 2014, at 2:43 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> How do I get the top off?
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Joker valve war!

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I just replaced mine last night. Ridiculously easy job. Cleaned the tank out, 
pumped lots of fresh water through and took it apart. I only lost about a litre 
of water onto the head floor. 
I was getting tired of coming back from a sail and having to swab the head!

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg
(Where's the wind?!?!!)

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 31, 2014, at 8:31 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I 'repaired' mine with Head Lube. Good stuff.
>  
> Gary
> - Original Message -
> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
> To: CnClist
> Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2014 10:23 PM
> Subject: Stus-List Joker valve war!
> 
> I finally swapped out the joker valve in Touche's head because it was leaking 
> back.  Didn't leak much.  Just some of the water between the bowl and the 
> anti-siphon loop.   
> 
> As usual, it had become scaled up.  I threw the old one in some vinegar and 
> most of the scale dissolved but the rubber was so distorted it was dumpster 
> material.
> 
> I coated the new joker valve with TefGel hoping to get more life out of it.  
> I think Peggy Hall, the head mistress recommends Super Lube for heads.  
> 
> Also, I read that throwing some vinegar in the head routinely minimizes scale 
> build up.
> 
> This really isn't a big thing for me.  I get the valves wholesale for under 
> $10 and changing one is only a 10 minute job.  But I'd sure like to skip it 
> altogether.
> 
> Any other tricks?
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List eBay Scores!

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Do your Barient 22s need a new home? That's a nice primary size for my boat. 

Brent
27-5
Wild Rover

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 3, 2014, at 8:25 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> thats quite a score!!!
> congrats!
> 
> 
> -- Original Message --
> From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
> To: CnClist 
> Subject: Stus-List eBay Scores!
> Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2014 19:42:52 -0500
> 
> Touche' had anodized alloy primaries (Barlow 28's), secondaries (Barlow 26's) 
> and cabin top winches (Barient 22's).  The bases for the secondaries are 
> losing some of the anodizing.  The alloy primaries had lost some teeth on the 
> inside of the drum but had been repaired.
> 
> Last year I replaced Touche's alloy Barlow 28 primaries with a pair of chrome 
> bronze Barlow 28's.  Found them on Craigslist in Seattle by using claz.org.  
> Thanks to Martin D. for helping get them to me.
> Well, the shiny chrome 28's made the other winches look kinda bad.  Been 
> looking for more chrome winches.  2 weekends ago I was probing eBay and 
> scored a pair of chrome bronze Barlow 26's.  A day later I scored a pair of 
> stainless Barient 22's.
> So now Touche' will have all chrome or stainless winches.  All for under 
> $1100.  Just have to be patient and keep searching.
> 
> Should make the boat look much nicer.  Sweet!  :)
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Re-Bedding / Filling & Drilling w_Epoxy

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I re bedded the majority of my deck hardware with butyl tape 5 years ago and 
I'm very pleased with the results. I drilled and filled as required and used 
the thinnest butyl I could find. So far no problems other than a slight 
tightening of the hardware over time.  This is not a maintenance ending 
procedure, the parts will have to be pulled eventually and reseated once all 
the butyl squishes out but at least the core will be preserved thanks to the 
epoxy fill. Water leaks will be just that. Water leaks. Just a nuisance and not 
an issue. 

Brent D
27-5
s/v Wild Rover
Aka Feral Dog

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 8, 2014, at 10:41 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Happy weekend all,
> 
>  
> 
> I am going to start re-bedding some hardware on our boat. I’m going with 
> butyl tape, but wanted to see what folks were using for “filling and 
> drilling” holes in the deck/core with epoxy, etc. Is Git Rot appropriate for 
> this job? I am looking for something easy to work with for when I have a 
> spare hour or two, i.e. less mixing/disposing cleanup the better.
> 
>  
> 
> Send suggestions and / or links to YouTube videos or other “How To” sites.
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Kevin
> 
> 30-2
> 
> PDX 
> 
> 
> 
> Kevin Driscoll
> Portland,  Oregon
> 503  //  875  //  3493
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Re: Stus-List Read it and Weep

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Holy crap Wal, it cost $20,000 +- to re power your boat? Wow!
That's a more than a few boat units!!

Brent D
C&C 27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 


Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 6, 2014, at 2:32 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I hear ya Wal  LOL. 
> 
> My boat was a pretty far cry from being neglected as well.  
> 
> The cabin's teak had just been re-oiled, Galley sink had a brand new shiny 
> faucet, cushions had just been cleaned and in very good nick, sails appeared 
> in decent shape etc, etc, etc. 
> 
> We all looked at the boat and all exclaimed OMG it's gorgeous.. I had it 
> pre-purchase inspected and surveyed both..
> 
> My list is not near as long as yours although it's only over 12 months.. So 
> far.   But what I shared is actually a fraction of what I've spent on the 
> boat in the past year.  That was just a "For Instance" as a warning.  
> 
> Those boats are demanding mistresses my friends, demanding mistresses: Very 
> pretty, ego stroking, entertaining, exciting, DEMANDING.  
> 
> Regards, 
> 
> -Francois
> 1990 34+  "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, Georgia. 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Read it and weep:   or read it
> and laugh.  Or laugh and weep.  Or drink tequila and don't worry about it...
> 
> The amazing thing is that I did most of the work myself, and very little of
> it was cosmetic.  That was intentional.  The boat is structurally sound
> enough to survive anything that *I'm* structurally sound enough to survive,
> but if thieves are cruising by in a panga trying to decide which boat to
> break into, they'll probably choose somebody else.
> 
> BTW, the boat that started this thread is not a neglected boat in any book.
> 
> Wal
> 
> you wrote:
> > Fair warning:  You'll spend far more then you think refurbishing a 
> > neglected boat, even buying used stuff,  being creative with eBay, and 
> > working on it yourself .
> 
> 
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Stus-List VC17

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Hi everyone and to my fellow Canadians, happy Thanksgiving. 
I pulled Wild Rover out of the lake last weekend and found not to my surprise 
that once again I have lost the majority of the VC17 I painted onto the hull 
within 6 inches of the waterline. 
I originally brought the hull back to bare gel coat with a random orbital 
sander and sealed with 6 coats of Interprotect 2000. This was sanded flat and 
roughed up prior to the VC application. The Vc goes on as per the instructions 
but every year I loose that 6" or so. More where the water is turbulent. It's 
frustrating watching others pull boats with intact bottom paint, even those who 
clean their hulls every couple of weeks. 
Any idea what I'm doing wrong? This is all the more important as the zebra 
mussel infestation in Lake Winnipeg requires a good paint job. There were about 
a thousand of them on the little keel in front of my rudder which like the top 
6" had lost its VC17 from the lower horizontal surface. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List VC17

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Yeah it is weird. The paint under the hull sticks fine. It resists 4000 psi 
from the pressure washer. I thought dust might be the problem too but I fooled 
that guess by spraying the hull with fresh water a day before I painted it. Air 
temperature was good, humidity was fine. It's a mystery. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 12, 2015, at 8:57 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Brent,
> That's weird.  I'm taking a quess.  Maybe there was some sanding dust on the 
> hull after sanding?  Did you wipe the bottom with rags dipped in a solvent, 
> before painting?  Is it peeled off or worn off.  Got any pictures?
> 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> From: "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" 
> To: "C&C List" 
> Cc: "Brent Driedger" 
> Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:25:06 AM
> Subject: Stus-List VC17
> 
> Hi everyone and to my fellow Canadians, happy Thanksgiving. 
> I pulled Wild Rover out of the lake last weekend and found not to my surprise 
> that once again I have lost the majority of the VC17 I painted onto the hull 
> within 6 inches of the waterline. 
> I originally brought the hull back to bare gel coat with a random orbital 
> sander and sealed with 6 coats of Interprotect 2000. This was sanded flat and 
> roughed up prior to the VC application. The Vc goes on as per the 
> instructions but every year I loose that 6" or so. More where the water is 
> turbulent. It's frustrating watching others pull boats with intact bottom 
> paint, even those who clean their hulls every couple of weeks. 
> Any idea what I'm doing wrong? This is all the more important as the zebra 
> mussel infestation in Lake Winnipeg requires a good paint job. There were 
> about a thousand of them on the little keel in front of my rudder which like 
> the top 6" had lost its VC17 from the lower horizontal surface. 
> 
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List VC17

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Thanks everyone. Next season I will try the solvent wash trick. I think I still 
have a can from my initial hull rebuild 7 years ago. I'll see if it has a shelf 
life. 
Otherwise I could just accept that my boat is so fast, paint just won't stay 
put!

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 12, 2015, at 7:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> FWIW, Didn't have any problem getting bottom paint to stick to my 
> Interprotect.   I scuffed the Interprotect w 80 grit to provide tooth as on 
> the instructions.  No problems after 8 years.  No problem getting paint to 
> stick to later interprotect paint when I changed the depth and speed sensor 
> thruhulls and Interprotected the fairing job before bottom painting.  I did 
> wipe the Interprotect w a solvent after scuffing w 80 grit.  I think they 
> recommended 216.  
> 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: "Rick Brass" 
> Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 8:27:46 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List VC17
> 
> Graham is correct. The Interprotect literature indicates you should apply the 
> first coat of bottom paint before the Interprotect fully cures so that it 
> bonds with the Interprotect and acts as a primer. You touch the partially 
> cured material with a knuckle. When it is cured enough that you leave a 
> knuckle print but it does not stick to your skin, then you apply the first 
> coat. If I recall, it took about 45 minutes to cure sufficiently.
>  
> Basically, very little will stick to cured Interprotect except Interprotect.
>  
> Since I use Petit ablative paint, I put on a primer coat of hard Trinidad 
> Pro. After it was cured/dry, I painted with the final bottom paint. No 
> problems in the last 6 or 7 years.
>  
> I can’t really say why the 6” or so along the waterline sluffs off, but that 
> is what happened on Imzadi before I put on the Interprotect. I’ve been told 
> is is because of the wave action causing erosion of the paint, but I’ve also 
> been told that the UV is a contributing factor.
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham 
> Collins via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 11:43 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Graham Collins 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List VC17
>  
> First coat of bottom paint has to go onto Interprotect 2000 while the 
> interprotect is still tacky, if I'm recalling correctly.  I've overcoated 
> Interprotect with Micron CSX this way and had good results.
> 
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
> On 2015-10-12 10:57 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:
> Brent,
> That's weird.  I'm taking a quess.  Maybe there was some sanding dust on the 
> hull after sanding?  Did you wipe the bottom with rags dipped in a solvent, 
> before painting?  Is it peeled off or worn off.  Got any pictures?
>  
>  
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>  
> From: "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" 
> To: "C&C List" 
> Cc: "Brent Driedger" 
> Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:25:06 AM
> Subject: Stus-List VC17
>  
> Hi everyone and to my fellow Canadians, happy Thanksgiving. 
> I pulled Wild Rover out of the lake last weekend and found not to my surprise 
> that once again I have lost the majority of the VC17 I painted onto the hull 
> within 6 inches of the waterline. 
> I originally brought the hull back to bare gel coat with a random orbital 
> sander and sealed with 6 coats of Interprotect 2000. This was sanded flat and 
> roughed up prior to the VC application. The Vc goes on as per the 
> instructions but every year I loose that 6" or so. More where the water is 
> turbulent. It's frustrating watching others pull boats with intact bottom 
> paint, even those who clean their hulls every couple of weeks. 
> Any idea what I'm doing wrong? This is all the more important as the zebra 
> mussel infestation in Lake Winnipeg requires a good paint job. There were 
> about a thousand of them on the little keel in front of my rudder which like 
> the top 6" had lost its VC17 from the lower horizontal surface.
>  
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg.
>  
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>  
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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>  
>  
> 
> 
> 
> __

Re: Stus-List Keel repair

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

That's a bummer.  
Have you inspected the hull in front of the keel and in back? Tremendous forces 
during a grounding can fracture the hull in ways which may barely be visible 
but can cause delimitation etc. If the impact was enough to distort the lead it 
may be well within your interests to have hull inspected carefully.  There are 
people that can do scans of the laminate.  In my opinion this is more important 
than the distorted lead which superficial and not structural.  

Best of luck, the 34+ is my favourite. 

Cheers

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 19, 2015, at 9:12 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Aries is now finally out of the water and I had a chance to survey the damage 
> to the keel from my encounter with Melton Ledge last summer.  I actually 
> received a special award from the Race Committee for going up on the ledge 
> during a race and needing to be towed off.  In my defense, the marker buoy 
> was 100 yards from where it was supposed to be and the Coast Guard 
> repositioned it after I alerted them to the problem.  
> The front edge of the keel is well smashed in over about a 6 inch area where 
> it looks like the lead is actually missing.  I had presumed I would pound it 
> back into shape and then smooth, but that does not look possible now that I 
> see it.  The guy who helps out in the yard suggested using Marine Tex epoxy 
> putty to fill in the missing volume and then smooth (angle grinder?)  I am 
> hoping that the experts on this list can give me some guidance as to how to 
> tackle the repair.  Thanks- Dave
> 
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Old C&C factories on Google Street View

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I showed the Niagara picture to my boat and it cried. 

Brent D
27-5
Built in Niagara on the lake. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 1, 2016, at 8:23 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Or open a ski area!
> From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List
> Sent: ‎2016-‎02-‎01 7:35 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Bill Coleman
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Old C&C factories on Google Street View
> 
> The saying goes,
>  
> “ If you want to make a small fortune, take a large fortune and start a boat 
> Shop.”
>  
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39 Erie, PA
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, February 01, 2016 7:24 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Ryan Doyle
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Old C&C factories on Google Street View
>  
> Chuck,
>  
> I certainly wasn't implying a relationship between the condition of a 
> shuttered factory and our boats.  Hope it didn't come across that way.  
>  
> Just interesting to see the place where they came from.  And you're certainly 
> right - the boat building business seems a tough business indeed..
> 
> On Feb 1, 2016, at 18:51, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Ryan,
> The exterior of a boat building facility is rarely indicative of the quality 
> of the work that goes on inside.  Many Florida boat building facilities don’t 
> even have walls on the exteriors of the buildings (partially due to the heat, 
> but I think they feel that every time a hurricane comes through, they’re 
> going to lose the building so why bother with walls…).  It is also hard to 
> keep a facility looking “pretty” if you have to store hull and deck molds 
> outside and do wet layup of fiberglass indoors…
>  
> The boat building industry has suffered greatly during the upswings and 
> downturns of our economic climate over the past 50 years, from the booms of 
> the dawning of the fiberglass era, to the luxury tax disaster of the 1980’s 
> and the Great Recession of the last decade.  The number of domestic North 
> American boat manufacturers has been cut by 75% since 1980, both in the US 
> and Canada.  If you want a good insight on the industry as a whole, not just 
> sailboat OEMs but boat builders successful and not so successful, read Heart 
> of Glass by Daniel Spurr.   Dan has done quite a bit of research, especially 
> on C&C Yachts rise and fall, and he presents a good bit of information on how 
> boatbuilding in North America developed into the iconic industry of today. 
>  
> It is very rough to get the right mix of design innovation, management and 
> financial skills, brand and customer loyalty, and a well-trained skilled 
> workforce all at the same time and keep the team together long enough to 
> withstand the ups and downs of the world economic issues.  I’m always amused 
> when a person tells me that sailboat builders will have a good year when oil 
> and gas prices go up.  Little do they know that the same oil is  used to make 
>  the resins holding the boats together and the Dacron that goes into building 
> the sails and ropes.  When the price of oil goes up, EVERYTHING costs more 
> and only the very wealthy can afford luxury goods such as new sailing and 
> motor yachts. 
>  
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Half Magic
> 1975 25 Mk1
>  
> S/V Orion (for now)
> 1983 35 Landfall
> Padanaram, MA
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, February 1, 2016 2:45 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Ryan Doyle 
> Subject: Stus-List Old C&C factories on Google Street View
>  
> Hey everyone,
> 
> Just figured I'd share these.  I was doing a bit of research into my boat's 
> history and did a Google Street view search for the site of the old 
> Niagara-On-The-Lake C&C factory where many of our boats were built.  This 
> appears to be it.  A little sad looking these days.  The official address was 
> 526 Regent Street, Niagara-On-The-Lake, ON. 
> 
> https://www.google.com/maps/@43.2477103,-79.0798583,3a,75y,46.89h,80.32t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1sWXyUsyI08paWB6abrM7vTQ!2e0!6s%2F%2Fgeo1.ggpht.com%2Fcbk%3Fpanoid%3DWXyUsyI08paWB6abrM7vTQ%26output%3Dthumbnail%26cb_client%3Dmaps_sv.tactile.gps%26thumb%3D2%26w%3D203%26h%3D100%26yaw%3D69.186577%26pitch%3D0!7i13312!8i6656!6m1!1e1
>  
> 
> And this appears to be the Rhode Island plant where some of the later C&C's 
> were built.
> 
> https://www.google.com/maps/@41.5370326,-71.2796595,3a,37.5y,238.05h,82.17t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sQtO33RcgRe2XAgGkFTZWzA!2e0!7i13312!8i6656
> 
>  
>  
> Ryan
> S/V Nobody's Bargain
> 1976 C&C 30 MK I
> Hull #377
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> To change your li

Stus-List Lightning

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Good evening.  Last summer my neighbour's Aloha 27 took a lightning strike to 
the masthead which fried the VHF antenna (and VHF), cooked the antenna wire 
quick connect but caused no other visible damage.   Small strike perhaps. 
Luckily I suffered no damage from the strike 8 feet away. 
Has any of you been struck before? What was the damage and what if any 
protection was in place.  Typical  of C&C Wild Rover has a couple of fat 
welding cables running from chainplate to keel bolt but as I understand it, all 
lightning protection is theoretical at best.  

Cheers
Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List now cored hulls

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Not directly C&C but prior to my 27-5 I owned a Kirby designed DS-22. The 
transom was cored, rotted and during the replacement process I determined the 
reason to be from stainless screws which had gone through the aluminum cap rail 
down through the core. After 25 or so years the seal had failed on the screws 
and allowed water to run down and get trapped in the core. Next came carpenter 
ants!  I replaced the core from the inside with marine plywood and learned a 
lot about boat construction and fibreglass repair. 
This same boat had some vertical gelcoat cracks at the stress points of the 
hull near the bulkhead. If this had been a cored hull I wonder if those cracks 
would have gone deep enough to cause wet core. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 25, 2016, at 8:53 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I know someone that had to do some core repairs on a C&C 40. The boat had sat 
> on the hard for years with water in the bilge and the freeze-thaw cycles had 
> cracked the hull from the inside.
> 
> He said it wasn’t a lot of money, just a lot of PITA work under the boat 
> grinding and laminating. Now if you had to pay someone by the hour……OUCH!
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Stus-List Composite project (not C&C related directly)

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Good day folks. 
Last year I was gifted a tired Bombardier Invitation 3.8. With a little TLC 
I'll get her sailing agains but the boat came without a daggerboard. I'm going 
to make a composite one. Two questions. I've scoured the Internet for a design 
detail of the board but have come up with nothing. Does anyone have any links 
they know of or information that could be helpful?   Second, for the composite 
masters, what would be the best core choice and layup for this project? Will 
fibreglass be fine or should I go with Kevlar?  
Thanks. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg.  

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Composite project (not C&C related directly)

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Thanks. If I don't have any info on it by May Id be very happy to get it from 
you then. I was considering plywood too. My old Bonito daggerboard is ply and 
it works well. I was thinking the invitation might have a more built up foil 
shape like a Laser which may be a little harder to make from plywood. 

Brent

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 11, 2015, at 11:34 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bent,
> 
> I have a boat like this, as well. I have it at the cottage, so I cannot take 
> any measurements at this time. It won't happen until some time in May (if you 
> are still interested).
> 
> I found a manual here: http://www.iei.liu.se/flumes/bjorn/triss_racer?l=en 
> (it is big and the connection is not the fastest, but you can get it form 
> there).
> 
> The daggerboard that I have is a reasonably simple thing. the top is shaped 
> to fit into the opening; the bottom is wing shaped (tapered at the leading 
> and the trailing edge) and the front and the back are parallel. Personally, I 
> would make it of wood (and use good varnish on top). That thing has to be 
> reasonably strong, as you will want to step on it, when righting the boat.
> 
> If you are willing to wait for the measurements, let me know; I will take 
> some pictures and dimensions, when I get there.
> 
> Marek
> 
> -Original Message- From: Brent Driedger via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 12:02 PM
> To: C&C List Canada
> Subject: Stus-List Composite project (not C&C related directly)
> 
> Good day folks.
> Last year I was gifted a tired Bombardier Invitation 3.8. With a little TLC 
> I'll get her sailing agains but the boat came without a daggerboard. I'm 
> going to make a composite one. Two questions. I've scoured the Internet for a 
> design detail of the board but have come up with nothing. Does anyone have 
> any links they know of or information that could be helpful?   Second, for 
> the composite masters, what would be the best core choice and layup for this 
> project? Will fibreglass be fine or should I go with Kevlar?
> Thanks.
> 
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Composite project (not C&C related directly)

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Thanks for the mighty suggestions. I think I'll take the simple route and use 
plywood but I will look into some of those glass options as the floor of the 
cockpit needs to be rebuilt. 
The weather is warming up here almost to the point fast epoxy will setup!  I'm 
looking forward to sailing this little boat on the Red River near my house to 
get my after work sailing fix

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg (5 feet of ice)

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 11, 2015, at 7:11 PM, Ron Casciato  wrote:
> 
> Brent:
> 
> Check the website for Composite Soplutions, Inc. in Hingham MA.  Jeff Kent
> is a "composite master" and would have lots of ssugestions or even maybe has
> a pert that might work.
> 
> http://csi-composites.com  
> 
> Tell him I sent you.
> 
> Ron Casciato
> Impromptu
> C&C 38MKIIC'77
> 
> -Original Message-----
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brent
> Driedger via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 12:03 PM
> To: C&C List Canada
> Subject: Stus-List Composite project (not C&C related directly)
> 
> Good day folks. 
> Last year I was gifted a tired Bombardier Invitation 3.8. With a little TLC
> I'll get her sailing agains but the boat came without a daggerboard. I'm
> going to make a composite one. Two questions. I've scoured the Internet for
> a design detail of the board but have come up with nothing. Does anyone have
> any links they know of or information that could be helpful?   Second, for
> the composite masters, what would be the best core choice and layup for this
> project? Will fibreglass be fine or should I go with Kevlar?  
> Thanks. 
> 
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg.  
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List List or forum

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Bob, I agree with your comments. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 13, 2015, at 7:43 PM, Bob Hickson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My 5 cents worth … it is contrary to the comments that I am seeing.
>  
> I would like to see a change to a forum if it can be done.
>  
> The vast majority of the items on the list are personal comments that are 
> only indirectly C&C related.
> A searchable forum would be far more useful in terms of sharing useful 
> information.
>  
> If some members want a Facebook type “list” why not form a CLOSED C&C 
> Facebook group (this is type of Facebook is open only by invitation).
> The C&C 29 Association has a closed Facebook group (this is the only reason 
> that I have a Facebook account)
>  
> Fair Winds,
>  
> Bob Hickson, P. Eng.
> Frenchman’s Bay Yacht Club,
> C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,
> 416-919-2297
> bobhick...@rogers.com
>  
>  
>  
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Deck hardware for mooring

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Dang, act of God clause...

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 14, 2015, at 5:08 PM, robert via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> And remember, no matter where our boats are in a hurricane, they are always 
> in God's handsthat's why we have insurance.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 -84
> Halifax, N.S.

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Re: Stus-List Freezing cockpit drains solved

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

C&C must have bought miles of that stuff. Every line in my boat was done that 
way. Sanitary, drains, vents exhaust pipe. And it all cracked. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 


Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 15, 2015, at 9:25 AM, John McKay via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I experience the same thing, the cockpit had about 5 inches of water in it 
> during a thaw earlier this winter.
> 
> Another project to put on the list for the new Mark II.
> 
> john from Enterprise.
> 
> 
> 
> On Sunday, March 15, 2015 10:19 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> A couple of weeks ago I posted that the cockpit drains on my 33 mkii were 
> frozen and the hoses had popped off. Upon investigation, I found that there 
> was a low spot in the criss-crossed drains. I am not sure whether they were 
> originally installed with a low spot or they just sagged over the years. In 
> any event, I removed the old hoses which were "type B fuel lines" reinforced 
> with steel wire. (had to cut them off with recip saw) and installed 
> sanitation type hoses double clamped with no low spots. So far, so good, they 
> always allow the water to drain off, no ice.
>  
> Mike Amirault
> C&C33 mkii "lovely Cruise"
> St Margarets Bay, N.S.
> 
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Re: Stus-List Awl grip deck and re-bed toe rail of 35MkI

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I redid my toerails on my MK-5 when I bought her. Yes the rail darn near 
knocked me off my ladder when the last bolt came out. It's easy to push 
straight, I just was not expecting it. 1/8 butyl and a helper but it's an easy 
job on the MK-5 with the outward facing flange. Yours will require a tunnel rat 
to hold back the nuts. 
when you bolt back up, only turn the nuts, not the bolts. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 17, 2015, at 3:41 PM, Glen Eddie via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
>  
> 
> I am planning to keep Freya IV out of the water this summer to redo the toe 
> rail and get rid of the wet core on the deck.   I understand this is a big 
> project and I have professional help on core repair and the awl grip job to 
> get it done.  That said, I would greatly appreciate assistance on re-bedding 
> the toe rail and any issues that anyone has come across in prepping the deck 
> for priming/painting.  I have given myself until next May to get everything 
> done, although I want the toe rail re-bedded and the deck painted by this 
> fall at the latest.  I have other projects to complete over the 
> winter-and no I will not be replacing the Atomic 4.
> 
>  
> 
> I love my 35 mk I. Hopefully this will bring her to showroom condition.   
> Thanks in advance.
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Re: Stus-List Discontinuation of significant antifouling chemical

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I thought so. That explains why VC17 is like plant food in Lake Winnipeg. I 
have to de-slime the bottom 3 times per season. At least the boat looks really 
pretty going in each spring!

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 18, 2015, at 11:15 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Bottom paints with irgarol have never been available in Canada, so I don't 
> have too many cares there. I want TBT back!
> 
> (just joking, environmentalists)
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC

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Re: Stus-List firends from list

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Comments like that make me appreciate the list. You cannot get that on a forum. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 18, 2015, at 8:05 AM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> +1 on Dennis being one cool dude :-)
> 
> 
>> On Mar 16, 2015, at 8:42 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Good point, Mike
>> 
>> For instance, I found a pair of winches on Craigslist on the other end of 
>> the country.  The seller was reluctant to ship them to me.  A very kind 
>> lister was instrumental in obtaining them and shipping them to me.  I think 
>> the more personal nature of the email format helps that process.
>> 
>> I also have met listers in my travels and asked listers for local 
>> information.  I'm not sure I'd be as comfortable on a personal basis with 
>> members of a forum.
>> 
>> As always, listers are welcome to contact me when they are in the south 
>> Louisiana area.
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List antifouling

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

May have to investigate home brew additives.  (Or not wink wink)

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 20, 2015, at 3:38 AM, Chuck S  wrote:
> 
> Hi Brent,
> 
> Had similar experience w VC-Offshore in salt water.  Used it for 4 years.  
> Very slippery and required if you want to sail to PHRF rating.  Miss one tack 
> and throw that away.  I think a grey auto primer would work as well.  Had to 
> scrub the bottom before each race (mfr design criteria) and minimum every two 
> weeks or the buildup would require major efforts to remove. Micron 66 worked 
> so much better, I tell everyone about it.   Almost zero buildup without 
> diving/scrubbing.  
> 
> But of course Interlux does not recommend Micron 66 for brackish water, where 
> I keep the boat now?   Gotta find a new paint for racing Chesapeake Bay, so 
> I'm watching the list comments.
> 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> From: "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" 
> To: "Jim Watts" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2015 12:59:41 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Discontinuation of significant antifouling chemical
> 
> I thought so. That explains why VC17 is like plant food in Lake Winnipeg. I 
> have to de-slime the bottom 3 times per season. At least the boat looks 
> really pretty going in each spring!
> 
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
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Re: Stus-List halyard stoppers

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I believe most of the stoppers installed in that vintage were Easy Locks. They 
are OK. Years of sunshine have likely weakened the levers. That mixed with the 
irritating operational requirement of never stopping a static line (I has to be 
moving through the stopper as its closing or it jams so hard you sometimes 
break the aging levers while trying to open it) I would seriously recommend 
changing out to newer technology. 
It's been on my to do list for 5 years. 3 broken levers later i'm running out 
of spares so I better do this soon. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 


Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 21, 2015, at 8:42 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Replacing the original 7/16 halyards on our 1985 C&C 33 MKII. Got a GOOD 
> price on some 3/8 Warpspeed from W.M. Does anyone know what brand/size of 
> halyard clutches  C&C used in '85? There is a set of double Schaefer clutches 
> mounted outboard of the original triples, either side of the companionway, 
> pictures I have aren't good enough to identify them and the boat is 3 hrs 
> from here.
> Thanks
> Brad
> Sarnia ON
> 1985 C&C 33 "Pulse"
> 
> Sent, miraculously through cyberspace, 
> from my iPad!
> 
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Re: Stus-List Halyard stoppers-Brent Driedger

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

That's awesome Brad! Actually you're  not far off. I deny letting crew wear 
anything more than standard repellant. The Bens 100 and oily Muskol have enough 
deet in them to destroy any plastic it touches!!  

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 22, 2015, at 5:06 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hey Brent, 
> There must be something else wrong with the plastic in your stopper levers, 
> it never gets that hot in Manitoba! Oh wait, I know what it is, overspray 
> from the mosquito repellant you need to wear all summer must be breaking down 
> the plastic. 
> Brad (former Manitobean)
> 1985 C&C 33 "Pulse"
> Sarnia ON 
> 
> Sent, miraculously through cyberspace, 
> from my iPad!
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Re: Stus-List Any hope for this battery?

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Those new Motomaster commercials showing AGM batteries surviving cold, 
splitting, etc are missing one thing, the ever present flat frozen. 
By the way Edd, that was awesome!

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg (still frozen) 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 1, 2015, at 9:24 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Steve,
> 
> IMHO — http://i0.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/list/000/715/142/f6c.jpg 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Apr 1, 2015, at 10:19 AM, OldSteveH via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> In October when DG came out of the water, after winterizing I carelessly
>> left the 12v power on - my cranking battery - a 1 year old Motomaster Marine
>> AGM, group 24, 75 ah.
>> When I came back a few weeks later it was flat. I took it out of the boat
>> and brought it home. It would not take a charge.
>> Over the winter I tried now and again with no luck but as of a few days ago
>> it is now charging on both the charger auto positon and at 10 amps (this
>> portable charger is for deep cycle batteries)
>> Previously the charger would show error.  However the battery gets hot. Not
>> being versed in batteries can anyone advise if it can be resuscitated? 
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Steve Hood
>> S/V Diamond Girl
>> C&C 34
>> Lions Head ON
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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Re: Stus-List 34+ in Ohio

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

That seems like a pretty good price for a fresh water boat. Is she hiding some 
dirty secrets?  The 34+ is among my very favourite models. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 5, 2015, at 7:05 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I ran into this and thought is np might be of interest to the list.  Seems 
> like an attractive price.
> 
> http://sbo.sailboatowners.com/index.php?option=com_adsmanager&Itemid=283&page=showad&adid=16526
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera 
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> 
> 
>> On Apr 5, 2015, at 9:00 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> 
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>> 
>> Today's Topics:
>> 
>>  1. Re:  Problem with 2 new fuel gauges...long story (Don Newman)
>>  2. Re:  Problem with 2 new fuel gauges...long story (Robert Boyer)
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2015 09:19:42 -0400
>> From: Don Newman 
>> To: Robert Boyer ,"cnc-list@cnc-list.com"

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Re: Stus-List Crew duties during a race

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Cat has trouble opening the bottle for post race dark and stormys 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 22, 2015, at 11:33 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Perhaps the cat was not trying to tie you up securely. She might have been 
> just playing with you. :)
> 
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> 
> At 09:14 PM 22/04/2015, you wrote:
>> Cats also tie terrible knots. Never trust a cat to tie you up securely. 
>> 
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C&C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>> 
>> On 22 April 2015 at 19:10, svpegasu...@gmail.com  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Being a live aboard, my crew (aka cat Dinghy) gets locked in the brig 
>> (v-berth), he can tell when I am thinking of leaving the dock. It's terrible 
>> being out smarted by a cat.  Once under way, he likes to sit on cushion 
>> layed over clutches, makes it tough to adjust the main, all the while giving 
>> me the finger, (mentally), for making him go sailing. When arriving back at 
>> slip first one off is supposed to take a line. Yeah he doesn't do that 
>> either. 
>> 
>> 
>> Doug Mountjoy
>> 
>> svPegasus
>> 
>> LF38 
>> 
>> just west of Ballard, WA.
>> 
>> -- Original message--
>> 
>> From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
>> 
>> Date: Wed, Apr 22, 2015 17:57
>> 
>> To: Martin DeYoung;cnc-list@cnc-list.com ;
>> 
>> Subject:Re: Stus-List Crew duties during a race
>> Before the Great Refit, often when my wife and I went out for an afternoon 
>> sail it went like this:
>> 
>> Me: “Honey, could you just take in on the mainsheet a bit?”
>> 
>> Wife, putting down her knitting and cranking: “Is that enough?”
>> 
>> “Yes. Thanks”
>> 
>> Wife goes back to knitting.
>> 
>> “Honey, could ease the traveler down a bit?”
>> 
>> Wife: “Okay… Is that enough?”
>> 
>> >
>> Me: “Yes. Thanks.”
>> 
>> Me in a few seconds: “Could you bring the traveler up a bit?” (after 
>> cranking in on the jib”
>> 
>> Wife: “Your racing again, aren’t you?”
>> 
>> Me: “Well, there’s a boat on the horizon and I think he’s pointing 
>> higher than us.”
>> 
>> Wife: “Really…?”
>> 
>> Me: “Just pull it up a little bit, okay?”
>> 
>> Wife goes back to knitting…
>> 
>> AKA: Competition Cruisinng.
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit
>> 
 On Apr 22, 2015, at 8:28 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 
 Me: Having too much fun to really quite grasp that no one else is.
>>> 
>>> This is why I often sail singlehanded.  Wife, son, and dog got tired of my 
>>> general yahoo approach to sailing even on a cruise.
>>> 
>>> Martin DeYoung
>>> Calypso
>>> 1971 C&C 43
>>> Seattle
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
>>> Frame via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2015 4:43 PM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Crew duties during a race
>>> 
>>> 
>>> My crew:
>>> 
>>> Spouse: Hanging on tightly convinced we're going to capsize when we heel.
>>> 
>>> Daughter: Total lack of situational awareness, particularly noticeable when 
>>> on the foredeck, we're coming about and the jib and lines proceed to 
>>> mummify her.
>>> 
>>> Son: Panic-frozen in place, terrified of the body-hugging apparatus called 
>>> a PFD.
>>> 
>>> Me: Having too much fun to really quite grasp that no one else is.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Andrew
>>> C&C 24
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
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Re: Stus-List Did you see the Dauphin island race disaster?

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

The storms never look as bad on video they do in reality. Unless one has been 
in a 60 knot storm seeing the spume on the horizon coming,  it will not garnish 
the respect that storm deserves. 
I've been in such a prairie thunderstorm on Lake Winnipeg but the sustained 
winds were only 10 minutes. It was during a race and fortunately nobody 
suffered any real damage. We drifted one mile under bare poles. It changed the 
way I sail when heavy weather is approaching. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg (one week till splash)

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 11, 2015, at 3:56 PM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The coated (rust showing in numerous places) lifelines on the boat in this 
> video are unsafe to say the least.
> 
> Jack Fitzgerald
> C&C 39TM
> HONEY
> Savannah
> 
> 
>> On Mon, May 11, 2015 at 4:36 PM, Charlie Normand via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> PFDs ? 
>> 
>> Horrible tragedy
>> 
>>> On Monday, May 11, 2015, Tracy Hirsh via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> We had our C&C out on the bay for DI Race. We had already finished the race 
>>> and were headed back to Fairhope, just south of Middle Bay Light, when the 
>>> storm hit. It was a tremendous. It struck quickly and winds were sustained 
>>> 36-58+ knots for about 30 minutes. Naturally we had all our sails up and 
>>> getting them down was a challenge but we did with minimal damage. I felt 
>>> very confident that the boat would hold up just fine to the conditions, it 
>>> was my crew I was most worried about! All came through just fine. 
>>> 
>>> Here is a video that one of the participants put together if anyone is 
>>> interested.
>>> 
>>> 57th Annual Dauphin Island Race
>>> 
>>> Tracy Hirsh
>>> Ogopogo
>>> 1989 C&C 37+
>>> Fairhope AL
>>> 
>>> 
 On Tue, May 5, 2015 at 9:42 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 I hope none of our C&C buddies got caught in the mess. 2 confirmed 
 fatalities. It's a long running race across Mobile bay to Dauphin Island.  
 An afternoon thunderstorm freakishly turned into a full-on tropical 
 depression with reported gusts up to 70 mph.  
 
 Our thoughts are with the families.
 
 -Francois Rivard
 1990 34+ "Take Five"
 Lake Lanier, GA
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Salvage landfall 38 on ebay, Boston MA

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Too bad it would cost me $6000 to get it home. 

Brent D
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 12, 2015, at 10:47 PM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I was all set until I read that there is no trailer.
> 
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Nanaimo, BC
> INDIGO LF38
> Almost sold in Halifax, NS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On May 12, 2015, at 20:43, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Yeah, my wife said, "buy it for parts?"  I wasn't expecting that from her...
> 
> The engine looked to be in pretty good shape from the photos.
> 
> Frederick G Street
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38)
> Bayfield, WI
> 
> 
> 
>> On May 12, 2015, at 9:22 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Yeah, for $63 I think I will pass. Although there might be some good 
>> parts..
>> 
>> Doug Mountjoy
>> svPegasus
>> LF38
>> just west of Ballard, WA.
>> -- Original message--
>> From: Nate Flesness via CnC-List
>> Date: Tue, May 12, 2015 17:48
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
>> Cc: Nate Flesness;
>> Subject:Stus-List Salvage landfall 38 on ebay, Boston MA
>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-C-amp-C-Landfall-Monohull-/221767154206?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276
>> 
>> Last bid I saw was $61. Might be worth it then again
>> 
>> Nate
>> "Sarah Jean"
>> 1980 C&C 30-1
>> headed for the St. Croix River
>> 
>> and
>> "Adagio"
>> 1994 Tartan 31
>> Lake Superior
>> ___
>> 
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Re: Stus-List C&C 29 - $2500

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

It's not a total disaster. The interiors had water sitting in it for a long 
time. There's no mention of a mast. Might as well be free then. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 19, 2015, at 8:09 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> If someone is looking for a project: 1978 C&C 29 - $2500 (CAD)
> 
> I wonder if that light blue is the original gelcoat. Could be a pretty boat 
> again.
> 
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Interesting problem. 
I have a small John Deere tractor with a 23 hp Yanmar engine. When the 
temperature is hovering lower than minus 15c a small amount of antifreeze leeks 
out onto the garage floor.  I've always wondered why. 
There's little change in the overall volume of the cooling system and all 
summer long there's no issue. Maybe a Yanmar thing. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 24, 2015, at 8:24 PM, robert via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> John:
> 
> Thank you both good tips...your first one could be the culprit but your 
> second one could also be the  culprit.the antifreeze (Preston) is approx. 
> 8 years oldI will flush and replace it before Fall layup and see what 
> happens.  As I said earlier, it does not happen after launch and before 
> hauljust during the cold of winter.
> 
> A few years back, one of the engine block antifreeze drain valves came loose 
> during the sailing & motoring season which was noticed when antifreeze 
> entered the bilgea little stress until the loose valve was detected.  
> Some times we get lucky!
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
> 
>> On 2015-05-24 3:33 PM, John Russo via CnC-List wrote:
>> Check to insure your engine block drain valves are tight before winter
>> storage. Second thought is weird but offered anyhow. Is antifreeze fresh?
>> Could there be a blockage somewhere where the antifreeze is diluted and
>> freezes which would expand and force the top stuff out somehow. I said it
>> was a weird thought! I will discuss it with the mechanic at the yard who is
>> pretty sharp and seen most things.
>> 
>> John
>> C&C 32
>> Arpeggio
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
>> via CnC-List
>> Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 11:25 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: robert
>> Subject: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery
>> 
>> After the engine is winterized in the Fall, I place a plastic pan under
>> it.not sure why but I do.  Every Spring, there is approximately a half a
>> cup or 250 ml of antifreeze in the pan.
>> 
>> I have looked everywhere for the source of this antifreeze but I can't find
>> out where it is coming from.  The boat was launched 3 weeks ago, the engine
>> has about 3 hours on it since then, the pan is still under the engine but
>> there is no antifreeze in it.  And the antifreeze does not appear during the
>> sailing season.
>> 
>> I notice every Spring the level of the antifreeze in the 'overflow
>> container' is down a bit and I refill to the 'FULL LEVEL' but that container
>> is not leaking.  It's a mystery!
>> 
>> Anybody experience this and/or have any ideas where this antifreeze could be
>> originating from?
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Good day. 
I'm noticing year after year there is more and more play in my transom hung 
rudder. The 27 MkV has some pretty heavy duty hardware which I believe we're 
made by Schaefer. I'd like to replace them.  My web search is leading me 
nowhere useful. Has anyone replaced theirs and what did you use. 
Cheers

Brent Driedger
27 MkV
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

The setup appears to be metal on metal. I'm not sure there is much space if any 
to squeeze a bushing in there. 

Brent
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 30, 2015, at 8:30 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Delrin would be better, nylon swells when wet. Any vaguely competent 
> machinist should be able to make them.
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
>> On 29 May 2015 at 15:25, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> I would try nylon bushings before replacing.  Had them on my Rhodes 19.  
>> Jerry. 27mkv.   J&J
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> > On May 29, 2015, at 6:18 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>> >  wrote:
>> >
>> > Good day.
>> > I'm noticing year after year there is more and more play in my transom 
>> > hung rudder. The 27 MkV has some pretty heavy duty hardware which I 
>> > believe we're made by Schaefer. I'd like to replace them.  My web search 
>> > is leading me nowhere useful. Has anyone replaced theirs and what did you 
>> > use.
>> > Cheers
>> >
>> > Brent Driedger
>> > 27 MkV
>> > Lake Winnipeg.
>> >
>> > Sent from my iPhone
>> > ___
>> >
>> > Email address:
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>> >
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Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Going to a machine shop is my alternative. I'll check out SSY. Thanks for the 
tip. I'm guessing these were custom made at the time. 

Cheers
Brent

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 31, 2015, at 9:29 PM, Mark G via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Sounds like my '73 25 Mk1 has a similar setup to your 27 Mk 5.  The upper 
> gudgeon casting is a single and the lower gudgeon casting is a double.  On 
> the 25 there is a single hinge rod, half-inch diameter, which passes through 
> both gudgeons.  I had a similar clunk in my rudder whenever I was on the 
> mooring.  I was not able to locate any off-the-shelf replacement gudgeons 
> which were anywhere near as beefy as these originals on my boat.
> I brought the gudgeons, the hinge rod, and the mating parts from the rudder 
> to a machine shop so they understood the issue.  They opened up the already 
> enlarged hole in the gudgeon only slightly, enough to make it round again.  
> Then they turned down the OD of two flanged bronze bushings to achieve the 
> desired fit, and pressed them into the gudgeon.  The ID of the bushings was 
> then bored to match the rod size.  I don't have any concerns with the 
> strength of it.  These pinned joints are strong as long as the clearance 
> between the pin and the journal is minimized.
> I just noticed that South Shore Yachts does sell the single gudgeons, $90 
> each.  They advise you to replace the double gudgeon with two of the singles.
> ___
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Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons / TuffLuff

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

There's no rush. It's an annoyance only. I have a tiller tamer that takes care 
of the nighttime noise. It's those windless Wednesday nights following a gusty 
day where the lake takes a while to settle down. With no pressure against the 
rudder it flops around and bugs me. I've got larger issues that need attention 
before I commit to the Gudgeon project. If I can arrange the parts I'll do it 
next season. I just dropped a boat unit replacing my TuffLuff. 
Now there's a sore spot. Some guy at the Schaffer factory throws my empty Coke 
bottles into a machine, pulls a leaver, squirts out 46 feet of extrusion and 
charges me $400 for the effort. Wow. Now that's a racket!

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 31, 2015, at 10:29 PM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> One old trick for tightening a bushing on a shaft is to centre punch the 
> bushing (gudgeon) around the shaft (pintle) hole. That will spread the metal 
> around the shaft enough to remove minor slop. It’s not the best way to fix a 
> problem but will work for a while until you can do a permanent repair.
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Nanaimo, BC
> INDIGO LF38
> Boatless!

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Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Chuck, I think you're onto something here!  Good find. Thanks. 

Brent D
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 1, 2015, at 10:17 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Rig Rite does have a large selection of gudgeons and pintles.  I like the 
> heavy duty model gudgeon that uses 1/4" stainless plate and a replaceable 
> 1/2" SS clevis pin.  These parts may seem expensive, but nothing close to 
> what I spent on steering cable/chain and an idler plate this year.  Don't 
> skimp on steering.
> 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
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Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I have been dealing with exactly that issue since I bought my boat 7 years ago. 
It hasn't been an issue and as a backup I have a zinc anode on the shaft about 
3/8" from the packing nut just in case it lets loose. I'm sure the keyway is 
wearing out as a result but I haven't noticed any increase in play. It's just 
on my mind as one of those " not quite right" things

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 5, 2015, at 1:16 PM, Brad Crawford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I recently had my transmission out for a rebuild and upon putting it back in 
> and the boat back together discovered that the propeller shaft coupling is a 
> little loose on the shaft, maybe 1/8” of rotational movement on the shaft, 
> like possibly the keyway is worn?.  Have tried tightening the set screws, 
> which secures the coupling but eventually they work loose and again there is 
> movement of the coupling on the shaft.  It’s been recommended that I have the 
> boat hauled,  the coupling removed,  the shaft pulled out and provided the 
> shaft is ok, a new coupling fitted and faced to the shaft, and then 
> reinstalled for a final alignment. 
>  
> My question to the group is has anyone else been running around with a loose 
> coupling and is this something I should be immediately concerned about?
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> Brad Crawford
> CnC 36
> Seattle
>  
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Re: Stus-List C&C30-1 climb to top of mast?

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I'm in the loving the mountain gear approach so I don't have to rely on help. A 
quality ascender, a Grigri, a sits harness, a new line to hoist up the mast on 
two halyards and its upsy-daisy. There's great technique on YouTube to learn. 

Cheers
Brent
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 7, 2015, at 8:21 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Any kind of ladder does not solve the safety issue. You need a halyard (and a 
> person to man it) to keep you from falling. However, any kind of ladder would 
> help the winchperson (there is hardly any load on the halyard). I use a 
> string of climbing aiders (e.g. 
> http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/big-wall-climbing/alpine-aiders-BD390050ALL1.html).
>  With that, even my wife can help me with getting to the top. Just to be safe 
> I use an ascender on a second halyard (always two points protection, when 
> working aloft).
> 
>  
> 
> Marek
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Re: Stus-List A good day

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I have heard that although 5200 is amazingly strong, the chemicals in it attack 
the plexiglass and will eventually cause premature crazing. 
I hope yours buck the trend. Keep us posted. 

Cheers
Brent
C&C 27-5 
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 21, 2015, at 9:25 PM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I used 4000UV to caulk along the top of my 
> glued-and-screwed-on-to-the-outside-of-the-boat windows without frames, and 
> after a couple of years it pulled away from the Plexiglas. Not a lot, but 
> enough to form a small gap that water can flow through. Stayed stuck real 
> good to the gelcoat though, so I am trying to seal the small gap with 
> creeping crack cure.
>  
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> - Original Message -
> From: PME via CnC-List
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: PME
> Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2015 21:11
> Subject: Re: Stus-List A good day
> 
> 
> May your port never leak again, but if a different ports leaks consider not 
> using 5200.  I like 4000UV.
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
> 
>> On Jun 21, 2015, at 7:48 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> 
>> the 5200 that I used to rebed the
>> fixed portlights in my Beckson windows is sound with no leaks after 2
>> weeks, only time with more will tell how this repair holds up over the long
>> run but right now I am happy:
> 
> ___
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Re: Stus-List C&C 35 Mk II for sale

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Well if I lived even one state over I'd drive to your house with a suitcase 
full of cash and it would be done! Alas even at that price hauling a 35 foot 
boat to mid canada would be outrageously expensive. Beautiful boat sir. 

Brent D
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 25, 2015, at 6:23 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Well, my C&C 35 k II is for sale.  Expresso is on Yachtworld.  She is one of 
> the best around.  She has modern electronics (Comnav / Nexus), radar, below 
> deck autopilot, new Ultraleather interior with memory foam, new paint job 
> 2010, carbon fiber main and 142% genoa, etc.  She is priced to sell.  The add 
> on Yachtworld is still being completed but can be seen at

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Re: Stus-List Damage to fibreglas

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I would seal it with West Epoxy and if it's in a structurally important area 
I'd sand out a bevel and add a few layers of glass. It didn't need to be 
pretty.  
Cheers.  

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 5, 2015, at 12:57 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I put a hole in several layers of fibreglas about a foot above the waterline 
> in the side of my boat.  As it may take some time before repairs are made,  
> should I seal the glass to prevent water from getting in the layup?  If so 
> what should I use?
> 
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> Portland, Or
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Re: Stus-List Stus List - 1983 38 Landfall on Ebay

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

There is also the possibility he did a good repair job that can be backed up 
with a survey. And kudos to that. Saving another vintage C&C from the chainsaw 
and scrap yard.  
I'll go with that for the benefit of the dreamers out there. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg
2015 GYC division winner. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 21, 2015, at 4:45 PM, Steve Sharkey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Could be the next reality show – Flip that boat
>  
> Steve Sharkey
> C&C 37

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Re: Stus-List C&C trademark stripe.

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Hi Dave, is that the ex Gimli Harbour Mistress?

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 22, 2015, at 10:23 AM, David Donnelly via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Not sure how many Good Old Boat subcribers are on the list but in the last 
> issue someone had redone the C&C cove strip with a reflective tape. Probably 
> not for every color scheme but I thought it would be very good at night if 
> someone was to shine a light towards the boat. I am considering it since I am 
> in a mooring field and the power boaters on the lake seem to come too close 
> most of the time.
> 
> David Donnelly
> C&C 26 Mistress 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Samsung device
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List  
> Date: 09-22-2015 9:11 AM (GMT-07:00) 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Bill Bina - gmail  
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C trademark stripe. 
> 
> I would highly recommend removing the old tape. Just make sure to measure and 
> mark when it goes with a grease pencil before removing the original. I 
> measured the distance to the underside of the hull/deck joint every couple of 
> feet.  3M has a special stripe removal wheel for about $40 that you spin with 
> a drill and it removes the tape and residue without harming the underlying 
> gelcoat or paint. Ask at a body shop supply and they will fix you right up.
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
>> On 9/22/2015 11:02 AM, David via CnC-List wrote:
>> We are re-doing ours as well.  Can you apply tape over old tape after 
>> cleaning thoroughly?
>> 
>> David F. Risch
>> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>> 
>> 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2015 10:59:05 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C trademark stripe.
>> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> CC: billbinal...@gmail.com
>> 
>> Any place that sells autobody supplies can get you scotchlite tape in any 
>> color and width you like. It lasts about 20-30 years.
>> 
>> http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/ScotchliteNA/Scotchlite/
>> 
>> Bill Bina
>> 
>> On 9/22/2015 10:21 AM, Mitchell's via CnC-List wrote:
>> The paint in my recessed stripes and stars is fading and peeling. Anyone 
>> have success with tape? How long tape will it last in the sun? Where did you 
>> get the tape? 
>> Len Mitchell
>> Crazy Legs
>> 1989 37+
>> 
>> Sent from my mobile device.
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Re: Stus-List Nice sail but dangerous waters in harbor

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

The best I can do is while nearly asleep in the quarterberth at my slip, I 
heard the unmistakable sound of a carp slamming full speed into the rudder. The 
next morning it lay dead in the water near my boat. Big too. 
No alligators in Lake Winnipeg, just sea monsters. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg


Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 15, 2014, at 5:26 PM, schiller via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> So, what exactly is a "moderately sized alligator"?  To me, anything bigger 
> than a pet store size is bigger than a "moderately sized alligator".  We 
> don't have much in Lake Michigan that wants to eat us!
> 
> Neil Schiller
> 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
> (C&C 35, Mark I)
> "Corsair"
> 538243
> 
>> On 8/15/2014 8:42 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>> Finished a couple boat jobs yesterday and decided to go out on the lake for 
>> a late afternoon sail.  Not much breeze but a pleasant sail nonetheless.
>> 
>> After the pleasant uneventful sail, I entered Mandeville Harbor afterwards 
>> (30 20' 50", 90 03' 46").  There was a guy on the seawall fighting a fish.  
>> His buddy waved at me to move to the far side of the entrance to allow him 
>> to play the fish.  As I went by the fish broke the surface.  Wow!  Looked 
>> like a 3-4 footer, species unknown.  Then his line broke.  Too bad.
>> 
>> I continued up the harbor into the narrow bayou and made the sharp right 
>> hand turnHoly Crap!  Here comes one of my marina friends in his Leopard 
>> 38 catamaran with 20+ foot beam.  I eased as far to the edge of the channel 
>> watching that my shrouds didn't hit overhanging branches from a cypress 
>> tree.  We passed with 3 feet between us.
>> 
>> A couple hundred yards later I had to dodge a moderately sized alligator 
>> swimming up the bayou.  
>> 
>> Glad to get Touche' back into the slip.
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>> 
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Stus-List Racing my MkV video

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Sailors seasonal depression is already kicking in and the boat is still in the 
water! I put this together from the stern rail footage of our last race of the 
season.
This year my crew and I returned to white sails as a back to basics year. Our 
goal was achieved with 2nd place for the season in a fleet of  7 boats. Back to 
flying sails next year!
https://vimeo.com/106679764

Brent Driedger
C&C 27 MkV
s/v Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg
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Re: Stus-List Racing my MkV video

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Thanks David. Where is Mistress now?

Brent


Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 20, 2014, at 6:07 PM, David Donnelly via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Nice video Brent. Your crew looks effcient.
> 
> Mistress has few 2nd and 3rd in the flying sails at Gimli in her past. Not 
> racing anymore.
> 
> Say high to Dale for me.
> 
> David Donnelly
> C&C 26 Mistress
> 
> Sent with AquaMail for Android
> http://www.aqua-mail.com
> 
> 
>> On September 20, 2014 11:31:59 AM Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Sailors seasonal depression is already kicking in and the boat is still in 
>> the water! I put this together from the stern rail footage of our last race 
>> of the season.
>> This year my crew and I returned to white sails as a back to basics year. 
>> Our goal was achieved with 2nd place for the season in a fleet of  7 boats. 
>> Back to flying sails next year!
>> https://vimeo.com/106679764
>> 
>> Brent Driedger
>> C&C 27 MkV
>> s/v Wild Rover
>> Lake Winnipeg
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> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Racing my MkV video

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I'll forward the message to Dale. He's been tearing ass in the Sonar class and 
doing very well. I think they won the Mb keelboat championships again this year 
on Lake of the Woods racing against two Antrim 27s, J80 and the T10 just to 
name a few. 

Cheers
Brent
s/v Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg


Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 20, 2014, at 8:45 PM, David Donnelly via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Mistress is now on Lake Wabamun which is about an hour drive west of 
> Edmonton. We are really happy with the boat so far.
> 
> David
> 
> Sent with AquaMail for Android
> http://www.aqua-mail.com
> 
> 
>> On September 20, 2014 7:23:27 PM Brent Driedger  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Thanks David. Where is Mistress now?
>> 
>> Brent
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> > On Sep 20, 2014, at 6:07 PM, David Donnelly via CnC-List 
>> >  wrote:
>> >
>> > Nice video Brent. Your crew looks effcient.
>> >
>> > Mistress has few 2nd and 3rd in the flying sails at Gimli in her past. Not 
>> > racing anymore.
>> >
>> > Say high to Dale for me.
>> >
>> > David Donnelly
>> > C&C 26 Mistress
>> >
>> > Sent with AquaMail for Android
>> > http://www.aqua-mail.com
>> >
>> >
>> >> On September 20, 2014 11:31:59 AM Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>> >>  wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Sailors seasonal depression is already kicking in and the boat is still 
>> >> in the water! I put this together from the stern rail footage of our last 
>> >> race of the season.
>> >> This year my crew and I returned to white sails as a back to basics year. 
>> >> Our goal was achieved with 2nd place for the season in a fleet of  7 
>> >> boats. Back to flying sails next year!
>> >> https://vimeo.com/106679764
>> >>
>> >> Brent Driedger
>> >> C&C 27 MkV
>> >> s/v Wild Rover
>> >> Lake Winnipeg
>> >> ___
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>> >>
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>> >
>> >
>> >
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> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Racing my MkV video

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Great video Edd, I love sailing at night. Nice to see speed bring out the 
laughs. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 20, 2014, at 9:53 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Great video, Brent. 
> 
> We shot something similar on the Enterprise during some night racing. Here's 
> the link: http://youtu.be/2I69h6fwL1E
> 
> Just saw several listers at the C&C Rendezvous in Newport. Great bunch of 
> people. So happy we were able to spend some time with them, even though we 
> came by car. 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> NCC-1701-B
> C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ---
> 914.332.4400  | Office
> 914.774.9767  | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone 5
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
> 
> 
>> On September 20, 2014 11:31:59 AM Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Sailors seasonal depression is already kicking in and the boat is still in 
>> the water! I put this together from the stern rail footage of our last race 
>> of the season.
>> This year my crew and I returned to white sails as a back to basics year. 
>> Our goal was achieved with 2nd place for the season in a fleet of  7 boats. 
>> Back to flying sails next year!
>> https://vimeo.com/106679764
>> 
>> Brent Driedger
>> C&C 27 MkV
>> s/v Wild Rover
>> Lake Winnipeg
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Re: Stus-List Ebola?

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

All tests negative in Canada. When it comes here we're just going to pull its 
jersey over its head and punch it into submission. 
C&C forever

Brent Driedger
27-5 
Lake Winnipeg. 
Ebola free, not zebra muscle. 


Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 16, 2014, at 6:35 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Is everybody up there okay?  I hear there's a pandemicoutbreak of Ebola in 
> the US and Canada.
> 
> Wal
> 
> -- 
> s/v Stella Blue
> www.wbryant.com
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List All is lost.. Disapointing flick

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

It upset me that after the storm he stepped back aboard the 3/4 sunk boat in a 
dead calm and instead of trying to pump out and save her, he stepped into the 
life raft. But to the movies credit this was not a how to movie. This was a 
story of one man and what he did, right or wrong. Nobody ever said he was an 
educated sailor nor was it implied. There are a lot of boneheads and credit 
card captains who venture offshore and haven't the slightest idea how to cope 
when things go sideways.
That being said it's not exactly on my like list of sailing cinema. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 17, 2014, at 7:02 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Movie was 1980s technology.   I thought it was excellent and conveyed the 
> sense of individual courage in a period of desperation and impending doom.  
> The boat was allegorical.  The ending scene was from Michelangelo's Sistine
> Chapel.  Jerry
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 17, 2014, at 7:43 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I totally agree with Chuck.  
>> 
>> This is not a sailing movie, it's full of holes and convenient omissions 
>> like: 
>> 
>> -  No EPIRB, yet had a sophisticated life raft,
>> -  No backup waterproof VHF radio ,main VHF not water proof,  no GPS, no AIS.
>> - Leaves the companion way open in a heavy storm
>> - Aimlessly drifting around
>> - Gets hit by the container  hard enough to make a huge hole yet it was 
>> perfectly calm, still, and his engine is not running. Was there an engine 
>> running on the container? 
>> - Tacks and puts the gaping hole to leeward therefore getting the hole in 
>> the drink, with un-trimmed sails, shouldn't he had kept it to windward and 
>> keep it dry while figuring out what to do? He was while sailing around 
>> aimlessly anyway..
>> - Etc, etc, etc
>> 
>> I guess he gets some credit for conveying all the emotions without saying a 
>> single word the whole movie.. 
>> 
>> -Francois Rivard
>> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
>> Lake Lanier, Georgia
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Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

This is how I'm setting up next year using a Grigri. It makes a great ascender 
/ descender. Check it out. 
http://youtu.be/BkErYrEWOMA

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 16, 2014, at 6:58 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
>   Now that the Enterprise is up for the winter, I’m starting my list of 
> projects -- One of which is some mast work. 
> 
>   Has anyone on the list ever rigged their own mast self-climber, and, if 
> so, what did you use. 
> 
>   There’s an article about it in the latest issue of Practical Sailor, so 
> it’s on my mind.
> 
>   And no, the transporter can’t materialize me at the top of the mast. 
> 
> 
>   All the best,
> 
>   Edd
> 
> 
>   Edd M. Schillay
>   Starship Enterprise
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>   City Island, NY 
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
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Re: Stus-List oldest sail contest

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I'd win this had I kept the storm jib from my prior boat a Vision 6.60 The jib 
came from a 50s vintage Lightning (original sail) and other than torn up batten 
pockets the sail was great. I still have the mainsail in my basement. I sold 
the Vision 6 years ago. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 


Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 23, 2014, at 6:35 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>  
> I am going to take the working jib down to the boat in case we get a honking 
> 25 knot day so I can get a good beat in and it occurred to me that the jib 
> came from C&C when the boat was new in 1973. Does anyone have an older sail 
> than that?
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
> C&C 35 MK I
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Re: Stus-List ice or soda blasting

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I did the hull of my 27 with a random orbital sander six years ago. I came to 
the conclusion that when bad sailors die they go to a boatyard in hell to sand 
hulls for eternity. 
Any price to have someone do a soda job for you is cheap. 
This is possibly the worst job in boat ownership. 

Brent
27v
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 24, 2014, at 10:42 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am looking for opinions on ice or soda blasting to remove multiple layers 
> of bottom paint.
> 
> I am also interested to find out what is the cost per foot being charged.
> 
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C&C 44
> Portland, Or
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Re: Stus-List Overpriced?

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I'll chime in on this as Bowline Yachts was the broker for my boat back when I 
bought it and I know the owner well. At first glance the prices they ask seem 
high and become the frequent talk at the club but with respect to the company's 
owner I'll provide a little insight to explain though not necessarily justify 
the prices.
In central Canada here there is not much option for buying used sailboats. The 
market is not saturated by any means and the stock of quality used boats 
available is thin. This usually means pay what the owner wants or outsource to 
the south and pay for exchange, shipping, border brokerage,  flights to and 
from the location, permits and lots of survey charges. When you total it all up 
the prices end up being fairly close to what Bowline typically charges. Then 
add to that there is the comfort level of knowing the history of the local 
boats, their owners and background. Further to that, our season is short so all 
of these boats are out of water for 7 months of the year. The boats are in 
fresh water the remaining 5 and on Lake of the Woods there's little swell to 
speak of even in storms. The biggest hazard is grounding and unfortunately most 
sailboats there have touched bottom.  The remainder will some day. The rigs 
although 30 plus years old show no corrosion or acid rain pitting. Gene
 rally outside of wet decks or blisters, a 35 year old boat is in 20 year old 
condition if it was decently maintained. 
I agree that $65000 for an 84 32 is very high but the price will appeal to 
those who want a quick painless purchase with background confidence of a 
quality fresh water boat. It may include a slip too which at my harbour is 
impossible to get now. I would expect a fair bit of negotiation will bring it 
closer to reality as well. 
Cheers

Brent Driedger
C&C 27v
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 25, 2014, at 12:11 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> While I think this appears to be a nicely equipped and well maintained boat, 
> I think the owner is overly optimistic with his asking price.  We bought our 
> boat in 2006 for half that price and it was a well maintained, fresh water, 
> one owner boat.
> 
> Sure would like to hear any and all comments on this!
> 
> 
> http://www.bowlineyachts.ca/sailboats/1984candclegacy.html
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 105, Issue 89

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I find the 27 mkV is very easy to surf. Keeping it there is the hard part. 15 
knots of true wind with a swell will do it and is key to racing well. I have 
not managed to make her surf with wind alone and I'm not sure it can without 
blowing something up. Be interesting to hear otherwise. 

Brent 
27v
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 31, 2014, at 11:13 AM, Alan Bergen via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My best surfing experience was 12 knots boat speed, in 42 knots true wind 
> speed, down the Straits of Juan de Fuca ---until my spinnaker exploded.  It 
> was a hell of a ride while it lasted.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> 
> Hi Rob and Hank,
> Did any of the C&C models have a particular strength in surfing (or planing) 
> down wind in 15 to 20 knots true wind speed? Years ago I recall talking to 
> Rob Ball about the importance of prismatic coefficient in surfing performance 
> but I was remiss in not asking what C&C models have the strongest surfing 
> potential. 
> Thank you
> Dave
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List post

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I've found those white caps available at electrical wholesalers. 

Brent
C&C 27-5

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 6, 2014, at 5:25 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Howard,
> 
> West sells the screw covers in white and ivory.  Can't help with the LEDs, 
> but I also need a few.
> 
> Joel
> 
>> On Thursday, November 6, 2014, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Does anyone have a lead on where to get replacements for the little red 
>> lenses on the electrical panel of mid 80's C&C's.  Mine is an 84 35-3 and 
>> about 1/2 of the red caps are AWOL.  I am also trying to track down about 12 
>> of the cream colored caps that go over the screw and clear circular keeper 
>> on the removable ceiling panels . Thanks.
>> Howard Paul, Skipper of Knot Again
>> 
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>> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Custom C&C Race boats (was - boat terms)

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I love hearing about a boat who's name is well known and never changed through 
different owners.  In the 27-5 there is Smoke, the prototype mark 5 which was 
sailed very hard for its first season to see what kind of performance they 
could squeeze out of the design. She's rumoured to be the fastest hull of the 
mark 5's. I was very happy to hear she kept her name when she changed hands a 
few years ago. Cool history 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 10, 2014, at 9:17 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Thanks, Ed
> 
> Always nice to add another tidbit to Touche's history.  One of the joys of 
> owning a piece of local sailing history.
> 
> Last chatted with Gene Walet years ago at a regatta in Biloxi.  Fine Southern 
> gentleman.  He remembered selling Touche' to AJ "Skip" Carpenter in 1971.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Mon, Nov 10, 2014 at 7:23 PM, Edward Levert via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> In the mid 1970's TRUE NORTH came south to Lake Pontchartrain. She was a 
>> custom C&C 37 designed and built to defend the Canada's Cup. Flush deck with 
>> "ant hills," sockets moulded into the deck to accept winch handles. The ant 
>> hills were cross linked so that the leeward winch could be ground from the 
>> windward side. She was brought to the lake by Gene Walet, a former Olympic 
>> sailor and then the local C&C dealer to provide competition to Corrie, C&C 
>> 39 hull # 2 or 3 and Touché. Gene added rather crude extensions to the aft 
>> curvature of the hull extending past the reverse transom for some 
>> undiscernabe rating or performance benefit. A recent Google search pulled up 
>> a report of TN having done well in the Trans Superior race a few years ago. 
>> It would be nice to hear about her current status. Gene replaced TN with 
>> White Pony, one of the early C&C 38's, which was never competitive with the 
>> C&C 39.
>> 
>> Ed
>> C&C 34 Briar Patch
>> New Orleans 
>> 
>>> On Monday, November 10, 2014, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> While we’re on the subject of custom C&C race boats does anyone know 
>>> anything about this one?
>>> 
>>> It looks like a 38 MK I or II hull with a mostly flush deck and racing 
>>> cabin layout.
>>> 
>>> At first I thought it might be the One Tonner but the deck layout in the 
>>> pictures is quite different than in the magazine ad that I have a scan of.
>>> 
>>> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1975/C%26C-38-2744779/Canada#.VGEhiclMpD4
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Rick Taillieu
>>> 
>>> Nemesis
>>> 
>>> '75 C&C 25  #371
>>> 
>>> Shearwater Yacht Club
>>> 
>>> Halifax, NS.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt 
>>> Stratton via CnC-List
>>> Sent: November-10-14 15:12
>>> To: 'Martin DeYoung'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; 'jtsails'
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List boat terms
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Somehow I knew this was an easy one for all you listers. Thanks so much. My 
>>> next stop is IOR ton rating. Had no clue…
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I wonder now how many and for how long C&C made these custom class-racers.  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
>>> DeYoung via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Monday, November 10, 2014 1:55 PM
>>> To: jtsails; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List boat terms
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Burt,
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> James’ answer leading you to search using “IOR ton rating is good advice.  
>>> In short, the term “ton” was based on an IOR rating band that allowed IOR 
>>> boats to race “one design”.  IIRC the popular “ton” classes were: ¼. ½, ¾, 
>>> 1, and 2. Sailing Anarchy has had several recent topics that cover IOR and 
>>> “Ton” racing well.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Calypso would have rated as a 2 tonner. A J-24 sized boat would be close to 
>>> a ¼ tonner.  Today there is a resurgence of ton class racing with ¼ and ½ 
>>> ton regattas being well attended.  Boats that had been neglected for years 
>>> are being resurrected, modernized and raced hard.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Back in the heyday of IOR racing I had the opportunities to race 
>>> extensively on ¾, 1, and 2 ton class boats.  The racing was tight and fun.  
>>> We used bloopers.  In the PNW town of Bellingham a regatta called PITCH 
>>> (Pacific International Ton Championship) was started in the early 80’s.  
>>> The racing was as intense as the partying. Protest meeting often went past 
>>> dinner time.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Martin
>>> 
>>> Calypso
>>> 
>>> 1971 C&C 43
>>> 
>>> Seattle
>>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List C&C 29 for sale in Portsmouth, VA

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I'd jump all over that one if I were closer. At that price I could drag it back 
North of the border and flip it at a profit. I see no water staining inside but 
the rig is likely ready for new standing wires and that mainsail looks very 
tired. Small complaints at that price. 

Brent 
27v
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 14, 2014, at 4:50 PM, Steve Staten via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I only paid $4,400 for my 1976 C&C 26 three years ago. The interior is good. 
> Cushions are clean. The electrical system works. The water jacket on the Vire 
> engine needed welding.  The seller was motivated and put it on eBay. However, 
> the many cracks in the cabin roof causes leaks that are only now being 
> repaired. The toe rail leaks in places too.  
> 
> Steve Staten
> C'est La Vie C&C 26
> Grand Lake
> Langley, OK
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lee 
> Youngblood via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, November 14, 2014 1:39 PM
> To: Rick Brass; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 29 for sale in Portsmouth, VA
> 
> I don't know anything about that boat, but they are killing us with that low 
> price!
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> Is anyone on the list familiar with a 1983 C&C 29, called Arias, 
>> that is in the Portsmouth/Norfolk/Hampton area?
>> 
>> I have a friend who is looking for a boat, as you may recall, and 
>> I've pretty much sold her on buying a C&C between 29 and 35 feet. 
>> Arias is listed on Craigslist right now, and my friend is taken with 
>> what she can see in the photos. I've been asked to find out more 
>> about the boat and arrange a trip to look at her.
>> 
>> I figured someone in the C&C fraternity might be able to give me a 
>> little bit of history about the boat.
>> 
>> http://norfolk.craigslist.org/boa/4756271361.html
>> 
>> Thanks for the help.
>> 
>> Rick Brass
>> Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2
>> la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1
>> Washington, NC
>> 
>> 
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> 
> 
> -- 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List keel bolts

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Keel seepage would concern me particularly in salt water. Not just the 
annoyance factor but the thought of anaerobic corrosion of the stainless keel 
bolts.  If this has been going on for some time I'd be inclined to drop the 
keel, inspect the bolts and do a Wally style re-bed.  It's expensive and I may 
be over thinking this but the peace of mind it would bring while offshore in 45 
knots may be worth it.

Cheers
Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 24, 2014, at 11:12 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Glad your trip was yesterday.
> 
> Forecast today is for 70 km/hr winds with gusts to 100 along the shore.
> Docking would have been interesting to say the least.
> 
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C&C 30-1
> 
> 
> Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2014 15:12:03 + 
> From: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List keel bolts 
> Message-ID: 
> 
> <134239895-1416841932-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1701521359-@b3.c5.bise6.blackberry>
>  
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" 
> 
> I have to agree. I had a small leak in my bilge two summers ago that 
> strangely enough didn't go away by itself and got worse this past summer. The 
> PO had told me about a hard grounding. 
> 
> I got it surveyed this fall after haul-out by a surveyor with lots of C&C 
> experience. Turns out I have hidden grounding damage.  I re-launched on 
> Friday and sailed over to Bristol Marine in Port Credit on Sunday. Will be 
> $$. 
> 
> At least I had a great sail yesterday...I had all Lake Ontario to myself. 
> 
> Mike 
> Atacama CnC 33 
> Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network. 
> Envoy? sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le r?seau de Bell. 
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Re: Stus-List keel bolts

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

My previous owner grounded very hard. When I bought the boat I ground off the 
slathered on repair and found the core resin in front of the stub had 
shattered. Because it was wet and then froze the floor of the head cracked and 
heaved. 
I took the stub back to the first keel bolt and then rebuilt it all. I stared 
with a triangle of 3/4 plywood cut to fit the angle and allowed for 1-1/2" of 
build up. I then began the tedious job of glassing it, built up into gradually 
expanding layers until it was roughly the same size as the original stub. This 
allowed me to bring the glass up the bottom and sidles of the hull to give more 
strength and help with stresses from unforeseen damage. I think I put 9 yards 
of glass on her. 
Faired and finished she's strong, looks like it should and has taken the worst 
Lake Winnipeg can throw at her while racing. Here's a quick video from the 
repair 6 years ago. 
http://youtu.be/kX00wjyGM9M

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg 



Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 26, 2014, at 11:31 AM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bill:
> 
> You will get different advice on this issue, as you have noticed.  
> 
> I am no expert, but:
> 1.  there should not be cracks in the bilge sump between the keel bolts, and 
> 2.  if there are cracks there, and you are quite confident that they are 
> leaking water, get it checked out by a knowledgeable person.
> 
> Years back (1991), a friend bought a 1985 C&C 33 MKII in near new condition.  
> That Spring we were removing the antifouling paint and discovered a hairline 
> crack around the front of the keel on the keel stub, not the keel joint where 
> we experience the C&C smile between the keel stub and the keel.  Question now 
> was, it is just a surface crack?  How deep did it go into the hull?
> 
> Owner hired a guy to address the issue.   He ground out the crack and it 
> almost went through the entire hull before he reached dry material.it was 
> seriously deep  The previous owner had a hard grounding during Chester Race 
> Week and did not tell my friend about it when he sold the boat.  It was a 
> significant crack and we were glad we found it and addressed it before we 
> took the boat to Boston that Summer to do the Marblehead Race.
> 
> Your call, but I would have someone experienced in these matters put my mind 
> at rest.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On 2014/11/26 12:55 PM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List wrote:
>> Thanks for the info, when I am on the hard next I will try this.
>> I am certain is it coming from the small cracks from visual observations. 
>> I wonder if Wally would like to leave the sunny south and make a trip up to 
>> the frozen north for a little hull repair work ;-)
>> Cheers,
>> Bill
>> 
>>> On Nov 26, 2014, at 7:13 AM, dwight veinot  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Bill
>>> 
>>> 1/2 cup per day is not really much water ingress...on my 35MKII water does 
>>> come down the mast when it rains and accumulates under the mast step...it 
>>> can move slowly show into the bilge...are you certain that is not the 
>>> source of the 1/2 cup per day...If you have an issue with water getting in 
>>> from below it should show up when the boat is on the hard...fill the bilge 
>>> with water and it should leak out and maybe let you know   
>>> where the source of the leak is...grind that area out both sides at the 
>>> keel hull joint and dry well...then squeeze in some polyurethane sealant , 
>>> let that cure well...cover with epoxy putty and finally with resin soaked 
>>> chopped strand glass matt...what you describe does not sound that serious 
>>> to me so I don't think you would need to do a major repair...but if you 
>>> have the extra cash separate the keel afrom the hull and do like Wally did 
>>> on his Landfall 38...that job was probably better than when it came from 
>>> the factory
>>> 
>>> Dwight Veinot
>>> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
>>> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>>> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>>> 
>>> 
 On Tue, Nov 25, 2014 at 1:28 PM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 I did shop-vac the bilge and wipe it dry. The water influx was slow - 
 about 1/2 cup per day at most. But that was at the dock, sailing hard the 
 influx might be more, i will check when I go out next. I think there has 
 been some contact between the keel ad something hard in its past life but 
 not too sure how hard and what repairs were done. The cracks are not in 
 the keel structure as it is very strong but in the sump area between the 
 bolts. I doubt the cracks extend directly to the outside hull. The leaks 
 are probably from the C&C smile to the hull-keel interface.
 
 I am bobing about on a 750'x137’ drillship watching a cold front pass by - 
 we are getting 30knt sustained outside, sea’s don’t look too bad from 80’ 
 up - maybe 10-14’. check out: 
 http://www.marinetraffic.com/en/ais/details/ships/shipid:464725/imo:9609392/mmsi:373287000/ves

Stus-List Navigation

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Sorry, this isn't C&C specific but important to our sport. Currently Team 
Vestas Wind is aground and planning to abandon ship. Is there any reason why a 
professionally crewed yacht with the latest and greatest nav equipment and 
shore assistance would come to this? Short of uncharted reefs but that doesn't 
sound to likely. 
I'm curious to know what underwater unknowns you've come across while offshore. 

Cheers
Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg 

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Re: Stus-List Navigation

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

From what I have read, intentional inaccuracies of GPS was a real thing. It was 
called Selective Availability and it was switched off around 2000 by the 
Clinton Admin. This made civilian GPS accurate to 20 meters +- .The 
inaccuracies we see now are the result of atmospheric and electromagnetic which 
distort the timing of the signals from the satellites.  This can be augmented 
by Differential GPS, WAAS and other systems which provide ground based timing 
corrections. 
I'm fine with that much accuracy. 

Cheers 
Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg.  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 6, 2014, at 9:18 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Civilian GPS equipment is intentionally less accurate than military 
> equipment.  Your government doesn't want you to know exactly where you are!
> 
> Joel
> 
>> On Saturday, December 6, 2014, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hope you are having a great, and warm, weekend, Dennis. It is rainy, gray, 
>> and the high was about 60 in NC today. Not a nice day for boating.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> We have all experienced the sort of GPS errors you mentioned at one time or 
>> another. And because we all know that our GPS receiver can calculate out 
>> position to an accuracy of 30 feet or so, we tend to think that the charts 
>> are wrong. But that might not be the whole truth.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I’d bet NOAA had pretty good GPS location numbers on the buoys you “hit”, 
>> and is not far off on the position of the seawall. The 10 to 30 foot 
>> accuracy our GPS reports is based on things like the number and position of 
>> the satellites from which it is getting signals, allowing for things like 
>> the accuracy of its internal clock, inaccuracy in the chart datum, and the 
>> radio waves that carry the time signals from the satellites getting “bent” 
>> by the Earth’s magnetic field. But there is another variable that  the GPS 
>> can’t allow for.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I remember reading, a few years ago, about the GPS system in one of the 
>> science magazines aimed at geeks like me (Probably Scientific American or 
>> Air and Space, but I can’t recall for sure). Seems the GPS system is a good 
>> example of Einstein’s Theory of Relativity. Part of the theory says that 
>> when you go faster, time slows down relative to time measured in a location 
>> that is moving more slowly.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> The GPS satellites are traveling at something like 18000MPH faster than we 
>> are on the Earth’s surface. So the atomic clocks on the satellites “tick” 
>> just a wee bit more slowly than the clock on earth. There is a government 
>> facility outside of Omaha where military personnel are tasked with adjusting 
>> the clocks on the satellites, by a few microseconds or nanoseconds, several 
>> times per day to maintain the accuracy of the time signals relative to the 
>> earthbound time. As I recall, if the clocks were not adjusted for 24 hours, 
>> the calculated position of a spot on Earth would be off by something like 5 
>> miles.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> That’s probably more than you wanted to know. But you can probably chalk up 
>> all those buoys the chartplotter boat ran into to Albert.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Oh, and another bit of Einstein trivia: He issued the original patents for 
>> the recipe for Tolberone Chocolate, and the shape of the candy. Which is not 
>> boating related, unless your Admiral likes really good chocolate.
>> 
>> 
>> Rick Brass
>> 
>> Washington, NC
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
>> via CnC-List
>> Sent: Monday, December 01, 2014 8:48 AM
>> To: Della Barba, Joe; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Navigation
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I was motoring up a harbor looking at a  nice Raymarine system showing the 
>> boat going through a sea wall 200 feet west of our actual position. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Yesterday while motoring in the ICW channel in Santa Rosa Sound near 
>> Navarre, FL, the chartplotter boat took out several of the buoys on the 
>> right side of the channel. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> 
>> Touché 35-1 #83
>> 
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Currently on the hook at
>> 
>> 30 23.054N 86 51.884W
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Cool yacht S&S 48 for sale

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Gorgeous boat. Nice to look at but I'll keep my plastic fantastic. 
The hull looks like an Alberg. "Lost nerve to cross the ocean"? In that?
Too bad. Other than leaky I'll bet it's bomb proof. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 18, 2014, at 3:57 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Have to agree with Joe. 
> My sense is this won't sell for more than $25K with a dead engine. 
> Nice expensive anchor and furler and pretty advanced hull design for 1964 48 
> footer, but the boat was been converted from a Sloop to a Yawl, and the 
> interior compared to more modern boats is closer to a 30 footer.   The longer 
> it waits to sell, the worse the coach roof will look.  All that wood needs 
> varnish every 6 months to look good.  Can't imagine all the leaks.  Glad I 
> don't have all that wood.   The seller states he lost his nerve to cross the 
> Atlantic and is selling, looking for offers.
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> From: "Joe Della Barba via CnC-List" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2014 12:45:52 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Cool yacht for sale
> 
> That is a LOT of money for a boat with wood decks and a dead engine.
> Joe
> Coquina
> 
> 
> On 12/18/14 15:30, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-Sparkman-and-Stephens-48-foot-Yawl-/151519392351?forcerrptr=true&hash=item234742725f&item=151519392351&pt=Sailboats
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> 
> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat > Micron 66

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

VC 17 is the local favorite on the lake I sail on. I've noticed its 
effectiveness is dwindling year to year now as the lake becomes more an more a 
haven to growing blue green algea and now zebra muscles. Luckily the muscles 
haven't found my boat yet. 
Twice to 3 times per season I swim the hull and rag wipe the ooze as grows. If 
I don't it grows really thick and is very hard to get off even with a pressure 
washer. The good thing is the keel is generally not affected by any growth. 
How deep do the salt water critters go on your boats?  Is the bottom of the 
keel affected?
On a further note, there is an area on the lake about 15 miles offshore that 
when conditions are right late in August, holds a thick percentage of the Red 
Rivers outflow complete with lots of pollution and treatment plant outflow. 
Those who sail through it come back to the harbour with a putrid brown bow wave 
stain on the hull that stays until mechanically removed with a buffer!  waxing 
helps but it's awful. 

Happy holidays and merry Christmas

Brent Driedger
27-5
s/v Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 23, 2014, at 3:50 PM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bottom paint effectiveness, like politics, is all local.  I have had Micron 
> 66 for the past 6 years and the bottom has to be cleaned every 2 weeks from 
> mid July through September.  That is considerably better than the VC Offshore 
> I had previously which had to be cleaned every week.  We are club racing 
> weekly and 10+ weekend regattas or races each summer.  
>  
> As a comparison to Doug’s harbor, if the speedo paddle wheel is left in for 4 
> days during that period it is completely fouled with shrimp and slime.  So at 
> the end of every weekend the speedo is pulled. 
>  
> Am in salt water though in a dammed river estuary and when there are heavy 
> rains the ”river” flows over the spillway and the harbor probably gets a 
> little brackish.  Also am certain there is no shortage of fertilizer run off 
> from the lawns of the homes on both shores. 
>  
> Micron 66 seems to be one of the better paints and it certainly is one of the 
> most expensive. 
>  
> Brian
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Douglas 
> Mountjoy via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 2:44 PM
> To: Hoyt, Mike; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat
>  
> I have used Micron 66 and got 4.5 years with out cleaning except for knocking 
> off the big chunks. Now I am using Blue Sea 45% ablative. still no cleaning. 
> Have a diver replace my shaft zincs twice a year, he will also clean the 
> paddle wheels for the knot meters. When the bottom shows signs of being dirty 
> it is time to go cruising.
> 
> Doug Mountjoy
> Pegasus LF38
> Just west of Ballard, WA
>  
> On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 10:02 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Bob showed me his hull last week.  The boat was hauled and not pressure 
> washed this Fall and had not been scrubbed all season.  The bottom of the 
> hull looked about the same as all those that had been pressure washed by the 
> yard.  I am most impressed with the anti fouling characteristics of Micon 66 
> compared to Micron CSC, VC Offshore and other high performance AF paints used 
> in this area.
>  
> The down side is that Micron 66 is not available in Canada.  It contains 
> higher levels of copper than is allowed here.  A pity since this paint would 
> likely reduce hull cleaning costs by over $400 per season for a typical boat 
> that races.
>  
> Mike
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
> Abbott via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 12:43 PM
> To: Bill Bina - gmail; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat
>  
> Several years back, I switched antifouling paint from Micron CSC to Micron 
> 66.. Micron 66 is very effective in controlling algae growth, at least it 
> is in our climatefor all of those that are bottom cleaning every month, 
> maybe Micron 66 would minimize that work.Just a thought. 
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On 2014/12/23 12:35 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List wrote:
> I looked at Dri Diver before making my rig for about $15-$20. In fact, it was 
> my original inspiration. One big difference is that my system can do the 
> keel. I also wondered if the scotch brite pad might be a little too 
> aggressive on my ablative bottom paint. Different strokes I guess! :-) 
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
> On 12/23/2014 11:21 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:
> There's an outfit called Dri-Diver which makes a device like you described. I 
> hope they are still around, because I need a new scrub pad.
>  
> It is about 6 inches wide and 3 feet long. A scotch brite style pad hooks to 
> a plastic (maybe 1/8 inch thick) backing strip which has half a dozen 
> cylinders of floatation hooked to it (crosswise). All is attached to a 
> plastic pipe 

Re: Stus-List C&C 30 one design

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

This from Sailing World: "the C&C Redline 41 is deemed an updated King 40. BOTY 
rules require original tooling, so the 41,although well built, is excused."
Based on the C&C website I was lead to believe this was a new hull.

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 18, 2015, at 3:53 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Redline was a huge disappointment. They should take a chainsaw to the 
> interior and the price tag. 
> 
> Joel
> 
>> On Sunday, January 18, 2015, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> C&C 30 OD
>> 
>> I just shipped 3 of these boats (hull nos: 05, 06 & 08) to USWatercraft's 
>> Japanese dealer. All 3 boats were pre sold. The dealer has 3 more hulls on 
>> order for delivery by the end of May 2015.
>> 
>> There is also a lot of interest from Australia we well.
>> 
>> Jack Fitzgerald
>> HONEY
>> US12788
>> C&C 39 TM
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sun, Jan 18, 2015 at 1:22 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Looking forward to finally seeing one at the Seattle Boat Show next week.  
>>> Hoping they'll have the a Redline 41 though I doubt it.
>>> 
>>> Oh yeah...go Hawks!
>>> 
>>> Tom Buscaglia
>>> S/V Alera
>>> 1990 C&C 37+/40
>>> Vashon WA
>>> P 206.463.9200
>>> 
>>> 
>>> > On Jan 18, 2015, at 9:00 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>>> >
>>> > Message: 2
>>> > Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2015 20:15:30 -0500
>>> > From: Jerome Tauber 
>>> > To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>>> > Subject: Stus-List C&C30 one design at Key West
>>> >
>>> > There will be a C&C 30 one design competing in Key West Race Week 
>>> > starting tomorrow.  Jerry c&C 27 v J&J
>>> > Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
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> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Port light Gaskets Material

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Holland Marine Products is where I got mine last time. Don't forget the butyl 
tape. 

Brent
27-5
Lake winnipeg 



Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 18, 2015, at 7:48 PM, Peter via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> My boat has spent the last few off-seasons on the hard in Mexico. Last time I 
> was there one of the kids knocked one of the windows and it feel off. I 
> realized that all of the ports were in similar shape. The gaskets had 
> basically turned to dust in the Mexican heat.
> 
> I am up in Canada now but heading back down to the boat in a couple of weeks. 
> I boarded up one of the windows and brought the plastic window with me to get 
> it replaced. I measured the others.
> 
> Before I left the boat I read about replacing the gaskets. In the post 
> someone had linked to a supplier that produces the material for the gaskets 
> for the port lights, but I can't seem to find it now.  If anyone could point 
> me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Kind Regards,
> Peter White
> S/V Outrider
> C&C 39
> 
> 
> 
> 
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

She's a pretty boat but seems a little pricey. It's no Swan. But then again 
once we leave the 100k barrier on a 26 year old boat, I'm really out of touch 
with what costs are. 
She looks more suited for entertaining at the harbour then thrashing about in 
the ocean. 

Brent D
C&C 27-v
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 26, 2015, at 6:37 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Did you see the 1989 57 in Seebrook, TX?  
> 
> For only 325K, you get a 57 complete with a bar that includes 3 permanent bar 
> stools. See here:  
> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1989/C%26C-57-2752865/Seabrook/TX/United-States#.VMbb5P54rg4
> 
> When your sailin' yacht is sporting an actual bar with stools you know you're 
> a "Playah"  :-)   It takes the "Ultimate Man Cave" idea to a whole new level. 
>  
> 
> PS, Here's the video from our 1st sail for 2015.  It was honkin' 18-22 steady 
> knots with gusts pushing 29-30.  Sunny, mid 50's, and gorgeous.  We hit 8.4 
> knots with a conservative 2 reefs on the main and the jib furled down to 
> about 110 % 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=daABRxXtcJc
> 
> -Francois
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
> 
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Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I use my Cunningham when I reef to reduce pressure on the double hook thing 
above the gooseneck. 
That being said, I don't think my double hook thing (tack hook) has ever been 
properly installed since I've owned the boat. It's a stainless rod that becomes 
the hinge pin of the gooseneck and has a very small hole through it at the 
bottom where I place a small washer and split pin to hold it in place.  Without 
the Cunningham in place the upward tension on the luff of the main places a lot 
of load on this little pin and I have had one break while reefed after 
forgetting the Cunningham. This resulted in gooseneck separation which killed 
my race as fitting it all back together in 25 knots with a boom kicker is 
nearly impossible without taking everything apart.  
What is the proper configuration of this little double hook thing (tack hook)? 
Is there something better than a split pin for this?

Brent D
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 



Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 26, 2015, at 6:09 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> FWIW,  I agree with Antoine's description of using the Cunningham and 
> Flattening Reef.  
> These tweaks are used similarly on all mainsails, from dinghies to bigger 
> keel boats.  
> 
> 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> From: "Antoine Rose via CnC-List" 
> To: "David Paine" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2015 11:44:33 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Cunningham
> 
> Hi David,
> 
> To answer your question, we need to go back a bit to the origin the 
> cunningham. Well, the main sail is up and properly tensioned, which mean that 
> the halyard point is close to the mast top block to use the full length of 
> your mast. Wind is light, not too much tension is needed on the halyard. As 
> wind increases, more is needed. Eventually, the halyard is fully tensioned 
> but the wind still get a bit stronger, but not enough to reef and, since 
> you're racing you don't want to give any water to that boat just beside 
> yours. As the wind increases, the sail draft moves back, increasing heeling 
> and reducing speed. Tensioning the cunningham does just that, bringing the 
> draft forward for two reasons: it increases the tensioning but also, because 
> the cunningham grommet is slightly aft of the sail, pull forward the main 
> foot.
> 
> Having the grommet has another advantage. If you have a corresponding grommet 
> on the leach side, you can take a six inch reef (sorry, don't how it's called 
> in English, "ris de fond" in French). This very small reef does not reduce 
> substantially the size of the sail but removes much of the draft. A flatter 
> main points higher and reduce heeling.
> 
> Antoine (C&C 30 Cousin)
> 
> Le 2015-01-25 à 18:32, David Paine via CnC-List a écrit :
> 
> > Hi All,
> > 
> > I'm buying a new mainsail and I am going to ask a ridiculous-sounding 
> > question.   Do you have a Cunningham grommet in your mainsail?   I do not 
> > in my current sail but that is because Hood made the sail with a jack line 
> > (or lace line) which serves the purpose.  My new sail definitely won't have 
> > a jack-line.  Some adjust luff tension with the halyard, others use a 
> > separate Cunningham grommet with a many part tackle (or lead the Cunningham 
> > line to a winch) to set the luff tension.  My sailmaker has an opinion but 
> > my question is, which do you use?  The Cunningham is useless when reefed, 
> > of course.
> > 
> > Cheers,
> > 
> > David
> > ___
> > 
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> > 
> 
> 
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Stus-List 34 offshore

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Happy winter everyone. 
I'm just taking a moment to appreciate vintage C&Cs and their ability to make 
dreams come true.  One of my crew purchased a 1984ish 34 CB near Toronto a 
little over a year ago, took it across the lake, through the canals to the ICW, 
wintered in Florida and this season successful began exploring the Bahamas.  
His spot is showing him just outside of Nassau and with his adventurous spirit, 
who knows where he'll end up next. He's sailing more or less solo choosing to 
tag along with someone going that way for safety. 
Anyone else on the list with the CB version do any offshore cruising? I'm 
curious on how they handle a big sea. 

Cheers
Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List 34 offshore

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Now that's a dream Chuck. In the near future anyway. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 28, 2015, at 4:23 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Brent,
> I've always felt offshore capabilities of various boats depended more on the 
> skipper than the boat.  Look at what Slocum took around the world.Now 
> they are crossing ocean with rowboats.  
> 
> I've always been a fan of Finnistere, the S&S 38ft centerboarder that won 
> Newport to Bermuda race several times and also did some long cruises 
> http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=5663
> 
> I should think a C&C 34 CB known to be tender, could still be handled in most 
> conditions, and the shoal draft should be great for the shallows areas.   
> 
> Call me crazy, but I also think your 27 MkV could be trailered to Florida in 
> 1/10th the time and sailed to the islands just fine.  Pick your weather and 
> window and go.
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> From: "Richard N. Bush via CnC-List" 
> To: bren...@highspeedcrow.ca, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2015 8:50:30 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 34 offshore
> 
> Brent, Check out the "Sailing Saralane" blog, they have a C&C 40 with a 
> centerboard and have been cruising for several years now; 
> http://sailingsaralane.blogspot.ca/
>  
> Also the Persuasion Blog, they're from Canada and just made the jump to the 
> Bahama's; http://persuasion37.com/
>  
>  
> I'm sure there's more.
> Richard
> 1985 C&C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596;
>  
> 
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
>  
>  
> -Original Message-
> From: Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
> To: C&C List Canada 
> Sent: Wed, Jan 28, 2015 2:53 am
> Subject: Stus-List 34 offshore
> 
> Happy winter everyone. 
> I'm just taking a moment to appreciate vintage C&Cs and their ability to make 
> dreams come true.  One of my crew purchased a 1984ish 34 CB near Toronto a 
> little over a year ago, took it across the lake, through the canals to the 
> ICW, 
> wintered in Florida and this season successful began exploring the Bahamas.  
> His 
> spot is showing him just outside of Nassau and with his adventurous spirit, 
> who 
> knows where he'll end up next. He's sailing more or less solo choosing to tag 
> along with someone going that way for safety. 
> Anyone else on the list with the CB version do any offshore cruising? I'm 
> curious on how they handle a big sea. 
> 
> Cheers
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
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> of 
> page at:
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> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List 34 offshore

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Thanks for the info guys. I'm not planning anything right now, this is more 
food for thought.  I gotta get the young ones raised first since the Admiral 
will have no part in cruising. This particular boat is not my first choice for 
a crossing of any kind but since my crew member is in the midst of it in just 
such a yacht, I was wondering how it would treat him.  
According to his blog he crossed the Gulf Stream under power at night to get to 
Bimini.  Seems like a waste of a good sailing opportunity to me but then again 
I write this from the warm comfort of my house. 

Brent D
27-5
Lake Winnipeg.   

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 28, 2015, at 5:46 PM, cpt.burt via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hey Andy we are over in Beaufort. We should hook up sometime.  Maybe on the 
> May river?  
> 
> 
> Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S® 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 
> Date:01/28/2015 17:53 (GMT-05:00) 
> To: Andrew Burton , C&CList 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 34 offshore 
> 
> Andy
> 
> If you are in the ICW in Savannah look me up. We live on the water and not 
> far off the ICW. Always happy to put up a fellow C&C owner at our dock for a 
> few days.
> 
> Jack Fitzgerald
> HONEY
> C&C 39 TM
> 
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Jan 28, 2015 at 5:42 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Though I like the idea of trailer ing down to Fla and sailing across, (and 
>> you're right, it would be easy with the 27), I'm looking forward to doing a 
>> little exploring on the way down from the Chesapeake, hopping in and out of 
>> the ditch. I suspect that not having a schedule will make it as much fun as 
>> cruising the Bahamas.
>> 
>> Andy
>> C&C 40
>> Peregrine 
>>  
>> 
>> Andrew Burton
>> 61 W Narragansett
>> Newport, RI 
>> USA02840
>> 
>> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>> +401 965-5260
>> 
>>> On Jan 28, 2015, at 17:23, Chuck S via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi Brent,
>>> I've always felt offshore capabilities of various boats depended more on 
>>> the skipper than the boat.  Look at what Slocum took around the world.
>>> Now they are crossing ocean with rowboats.  
>>> 
>>> I've always been a fan of Finnistere, the S&S 38ft centerboarder that won 
>>> Newport to Bermuda race several times and also did some long cruises 
>>> http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=5663
>>> 
>>> I should think a C&C 34 CB known to be tender, could still be handled in 
>>> most conditions, and the shoal draft should be great for the shallows 
>>> areas.   
>>> 
>>> Call me crazy, but I also think your 27 MkV could be trailered to Florida 
>>> in 1/10th the time and sailed to the islands just fine.  Pick your weather 
>>> and window and go.
>>> 
>>> Chuck
>>> Resolute
>>> 1990 C&C 34R
>>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>>> 
>>> From: "Richard N. Bush via CnC-List" 
>>> To: bren...@highspeedcrow.ca, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2015 8:50:30 AM
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 34 offshore
>>> 
>>> Brent, Check out the "Sailing Saralane" blog, they have a C&C 40 with a 
>>> centerboard and have been cruising for several years now; 
>>> http://sailingsaralane.blogspot.ca/
>>>  
>>> Also the Persuasion Blog, they're from Canada and just made the jump to the 
>>> Bahama's; http://persuasion37.com/
>>>  
>>>  
>>> I'm sure there's more.
>>> Richard
>>> 1985 C&C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596;
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Richard N. Bush
>>> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>>> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
>>> 502-584-7255
>>>  
>>>  
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>>> To: C&C List Canada 
>>> Sent: Wed, Jan 28, 2015 2:53 am
>>> Subject: Stus-List 34 offshore
>>> 
>>> Happy winter everyone. 
>>> I'm just taking a moment to appreciate vintage C&Cs and their ability to 
>>> make 
>>> dreams come true.  One of my crew purchased a 1984ish 34 CB near Toronto a 
>>> little over a year ago, took it across the lake, through the canals to the 
>>> ICW, 
>>> wintered in Florida and this season successful began exploring the Baha

Re: Stus-List 34 offshore

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

From all this conversation I'll add the 35 to my list of possibilities. 
Only 15 years to go! Of course by then larger boats will be easily affordable. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 30, 2015, at 5:19 AM, Mike Brannon via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Richard, If It is like my 36 CB it will be a bit tender but I've learned to 
> reduce sail early and the boat does just fine.   In fact going to wind with 
> less sail has its advantages.
> 
> Sail Safe, 
> 
> Mike
> Virginia Lee, 93295
> 78 C&C36 CB
> Virginia Beach, VA
> 
> Sent from my iPad Mini
> 
> 
>>> 
>>> From: "Richard N. Bush via CnC-List" 
>>> To: bren...@highspeedcrow.ca, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2015 8:50:30 AM
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 34 offshore
>>> 
>>> Brent, Check out the "Sailing Saralane" blog, they have a C&C 40 with a 
>>> centerboard and have been cruising for several years now; 
>>> http://sailingsaralane.blogspot.ca/
>>>  
>>> Also the Persuasion Blog, they're from Canada and just made the jump to the 
>>> Bahama's; http://persuasion37.com/
>>>  
>>>  
>>> I'm sure there's more.
>>> Richard
>>> 1985 C&C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596;
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Richard N. Bush
>>> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>>> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
>>> 502-584-7255
>>>  
>>>  
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>>> To: C&C List Canada 
>>> Sent: Wed, Jan 28, 2015 2:53 am
>>> Subject: Stus-List 34 offshore
>>> 
>>> Happy winter everyone. 
>>> I'm just taking a moment to appreciate vintage C&Cs and their ability to 
>>> make 
>>> dreams come true.  One of my crew purchased a 1984ish 34 CB near Toronto a 
>>> little over a year ago, took it across the lake, through the canals to the 
>>> ICW, 
>>> wintered in Florida and this season successful began exploring the Bahamas. 
>>>  His 
>>> spot is showing him just outside of Nassau and with his adventurous spirit, 
>>> who 
>>> knows where he'll end up next. He's sailing more or less solo choosing to 
>>> tag 
>>> along with someone going that way for safety. 
>>> Anyone else on the list with the CB version do any offshore cruising? I'm 
>>> curious on how they handle a big sea. 
>>> 
>>> Cheers
>>> Brent Driedger
>>> 27-5
>>> Lake Winnipeg. 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of 
>>> page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
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>>> bottom of page at:
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Stus-List Hatch size on mkV

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Good evening. 
Its too cold outside and I'm too lazy to climb under Wild Rover's tarp to 
measure the forehatch. Anyone know the size of it on a 27 MkV?  Im replacing it 
this year.  The glass is translucent, the hardware is all bunged up and after 
last year it leaks like horrendously.  
Inexpensive model suggestions will be appreciated too.  Thanks

Brent Driedger
27-5 #15
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Window Installation - 1985 41

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I went the Plexus route and I was very pleased with the results. The gun was 
air powered making it easy to use and the newer products have a better working 
time than the original stuff. I'm on 4 years and happy. 
This is my second attempt however. In the original job I think I squeezed too 
much goo out and the seal Failed later that year. 
I was excited to try the 3m double sided structural aviation tape but the 
method was untried at the time and I was concerned about the resins attacking 
the acrylic like 5200 will. 
Don't fear the Plexus. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 12, 2015, at 9:49 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> For all the people on the list that have had some success with the Sika 
> option, I’m with Rick: the original Plexus solution still seems to be the 
> best option to me, so long as it’s done carefully and with the correct 
> materials.  This means that you need to use cast, not extruded acrylic for 
> the lights, and it needs to be the proper thickness (3/8” for pretty much all 
> of our boats).  On my first C&C, a 1981 30mkI, the original installation 
> lasted until about 1997 before the windows started to leak; that’s sixteen 
> years.  On my current 1979 Landfall 38, the windows were incorrectly replaced 
> by the former owner before I purchased her in 2005; he used 1/4” cheap 
> acrylic, and it’s split in many places.  When I replace them this year, I 
> will be using a Plexus product and high-quality 3/8” acrylic, along with 
> LifeSeal for the final edging around the cabin sides.
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On Feb 12, 2015, at 9:40 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> My windows were replaced by a local yard about 10-12 years ago before I was 
>> paying attention to this list. There appear to be screws
>> involved whose heads I can see from the outside--probably screwed thru the 
>> windows to the fiberglass in the 'frame'--but I am not sure.
>>  
>> Some of them are beginning to leak again and over the years I have seen some 
>> spitting of the fiberglass on the inside around the windows.
>> I think this was a result of hull stresses while sailing.
>>  
>> I have solved this with thickened epoxy and a pressure clamp to squeeze the 
>> splits together while the epoxy cured.
>>  
>> My question for the list is if I decide the windows should be replaced 
>> again, should I bite the bullet and go with the Plexus/glue
>> route or return to a glued and screwed solution, which the first repair 
>> seems to have been.
>>  
>> Since the factory window installation began leaking early in the boats 
>> history (5-10 years), I am not sure the windows were installed with the
>> best solution originally so returning to a similar fix seems at least 
>> counter-intuitive.
>>  
>> Further, I am less interested in a 'pure, original solution' fix than a 
>> simple fix that works, which the original fix did for ~ 12 years. Since most
>> of the repair cost is likely to be in the labor involved (not the cost of 
>> the windows), any solution will likely cost about the same. 
>>  
>> Charlie Nelson
>> Water Phantom
>> 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> cenel...@aol.com
>>  
>>  
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
>> To: Edd Schillay ; cnc-list 
>> Sent: Thu, Feb 12, 2015 9:22 am
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Window Installation - 1985 41
>> 
>> I have the aluminum frame windows on both my boats, which I consider to be 
>> less stylish but much more practical, so I'm basically just an interested 
>> onlooker to this discussion. But it seems to me a point made several years 
>> ago in a similar thread has been lost here.
>> 
>> The frameless windows were glued into the deck/cabin structure and helped to 
>> stiffen it, which also helps to stiffen the whole boat.
>> 
>> Plexus seems a right PITA to use, but it has lasted the better part of 30 
>> years on our old boats. And the comments about damaging gel oat when 
>> removing old portlights speaks to its tenacity as an adhesive.
>> 
>> Sika 295uv, and the 3M equivalent, are great adhesives and sealers. (And 
>> also a PITA to use. Don't even THINK about not using the primer.)  I used 
>> Sika 295 on my rebuilt hatches, and it is great for car windshields (which 
>> are bedded in rubber so the window does not crack as the car body flexes) 
>> but it remains flexible. And from the previous discussions on the list I've 
>> gotten the impression that the hull and deck flexing leads to leaks in a few 
>> years, and polycarbonate portlights held in by screws tend to get cracks at 
>> the stress points.
>> 
>> As I said, I have no real experience with the glued in portlight solutions 
>> and I'm happy with my simple, cheap, durable, but not stylish aluminum 
>> frames. I just wanted to remind the group about why the frameless portlights 
>> were glued in by C&C in the first place.
>> 
>> Ri

Re: Stus-List Portlight Replacement with VHB Tape & Dow 795

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

This sounds well thought out but I have one thought on this. You say you 
painted the inside of the plexiglass black, the substrate you are now adhering 
to is paint and not the window itself. I'm thinking you may see the window 
separate from the VHB tape and leave the paint behind on the tape as the paint 
is not necessarily a structural bond.  Hopefully the paint is more firmly 
adhered to the glass than the tape will be.  
Also be aware that the solvents in the paint may damage the plastic over time 
and cause crazing around the edges. Just a thought. Hopefully I'm overthinking 
this and wrong. 
Good luck with the project, keep us posted. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg


Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 15, 2015, at 11:06 AM, RPH via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> I have been reading the recent posts about windows and I thought that some 
> might be interested to hear of my experience replacing the portlights on my 
> 1989 30 MKII. Please note that I just started the on-boat part of the project 
> yesterday and the work is not yet complete. 
> 
> In late fall I made tracings of the portlights which I transfered to 1/2 inch 
> ply. The templates were cut using a circular saw with a guide rail system and 
> a router. I then took my templates to a local plastics manufacturer, and they 
> made the portlights from 1/4 inch plexiglass (Bronze 2404). The edges of the 
> portlights are bevelled at 22.5 degrees (if I remember correctly). They 
> turned out to be very good reproductions of the factory portlights. 
> 
> To ready myself for the project, I also purchased 36 yards of 3M VHB 4991 
> Tape 1/2" x 2.3mm,  4 tubes of Dow 795 structural adhesive (I chose white 
> over black), and a can of DEI 010301 Black High-Temperature Silicone Coating 
> exhaust paint. 
> 
> Yesterday, I attended at the boat with a view to replacing only the aft, 
> starboard portlight (because I didn't want to bite off more than I could 
> chew). I knew that the factory portlights were glued on with a methacrylate 
> adhesive and that they would be difficult to remove. I brought my Dremel 
> Multimax (which is like a Fein Multimaster) and tried using a flexible 
> scraper to get between the plexi and the cabin top. This was not effective. 
> In the end, I used several small putty knives which easily removed the 
> portlight. 
> 
> What the putty knives did not remove was the remnants of the methacrylate 
> adhesive. I tried several different techniques to remove the adhesive but 
> ultimately decided that the better course would be to fair the area with 3m 
> Premium Marine Filler. 
> 
> After sanding the fairing compound, I held the new portlight in place while 
> my wife traced the window opening from inside the cabin onto the protective 
> paper film. Then I used an Exacto knife to cut the paper along the tracing 
> and removed the paper surrounding the window opening. Next, I spray painted 
> the inside of the portlight black with the DEI paint so that the tape and Dow 
> 795 will not be visible against the cabin top. 
> 
> I experimented with small pieces of the VHB tape and was surpised to see that 
> it did not seem to stick too well to the cabin top even after the surface was 
> carefully cleaned with alcohol. I decided that the fairing compound should be 
> left to cure overnight and I will try again today. In any event, I have since 
> read that the VHB tape needs time to reach maximum adhesion, and that it will 
> adhere more quickly when the temperature is warmer. I'll bring a heat gun 
> today to warm up the cabin top before applying the portlight. 
> 
> Anyway, if all goes well, the plan is to first affix the VHB tape to the 
> inside of the portlight. Then, with the portlight dry-fitted in place, I will 
> affix a few wooden blocks to the inside of the portlight (through the cabin 
> top window opening) using double sided poster tape. My hope is that I can 
> then remove the protective film from the other side of the VHB tape and then 
> fit the portlight into place like a "key" into a keyhole. After the tape is 
> set, I will then fill the gap around the outside with the Dow 795. 
> 
> That's the plan, anyway. 
> 
> Robert H. 
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Re: Stus-List Window Installation - 1985 41

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Try this link to 3M VHB tapes. 

http://m.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/mAdhesives/Tapes/Products/?rt=ms&resultsPerPage=10&Ntt=VHB&x=0&y=0

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 15, 2015, at 3:40 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Edd,
> 
> I googled "3m fuselage tape" and couldn't cleary identify what product you 
> used.  Could you please enlighten me.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
>> On Feb 8, 2015 8:38 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> We have the frameless windows and did the replacement last Spring. We used 
>> 3M fuselage tape - and although the prep was a lot of work, we are very 
>> pleased with the end result. 
>> 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> ---
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> NCC-1701-B
>> C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
>> www.StarshipSailing.com
>> ---
>> 914.332.4400  | Office
>> 914.774.9767  | Mobile
>> ---
>> Sent via iPhone 6
>> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>> 
>> On Feb 8, 2015, at 8:24 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> That might work; but butyl’s NOT an adhesive, so you would definitely need 
>> the screws/bolts.
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>> 
>>> On Feb 8, 2015, at 7:22 PM, Gary Zuehlke via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Would the butyl tape work on frameless windows that were attached by 
>>> screws?  What about bolts all the way through to some nice wood trim that 
>>> would "clamp" the cabin top sides between the windows and interior trim?
>> 
>> ___
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Stus-List Winch sale

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Hi everyone. Does anyone know when the West Marine annual buy one get one free 
winch sale is. I’m thinking it’s soon. 
Cheers. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
s/v Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

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Stus-List Winch sale

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Good day everyone.
Does anyone know when the annual West Marine buy one get one free winch sale 
usually is? 
I’m looking for 2 speed self tailing. 

Thanks. 

Brent Driedger
s/v Wild Rover
27-5
Lake Winnipeg 

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Winch sale

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Thanks. I was having email issues last night, inbox wasn’t populating and I 
couldn’t tell if my sent items were sent.

Cheers
Brent.  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 26, 2018, at 8:53 AM, Ken Heaton  wrote:
> 
> Also, Alan Bergen replied to your email about 9 hours ago but you obviously 
> didn't receive his reply.


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Re: Stus-List Marine Batteries

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I’ve been using Costco deep cycle 12v batteries since 2002 and I’m really happy 
with them.  My oldest one still in rotation is a 2008 and it’s ready to go into 
season number 10!  

Brent Driedger
s/v Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 5, 2018, at 7:23 PM, Jean-Guy Nadeau via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Just tuned in to this string. 
> Has anyone recommended the Costco batteries? I use 4 x 6-volt golf cart 
> batteries. They are under $140 Cdn and can be replaced at any Costco outlet 
> if you have issues.
> Another good policy someone told me about years ago is to buy all your 
> batteries from the same manufactured batch. Check the date stamp or sticker 
> on the battery to be sure.
> 
> Cheers, J-G 
> Callisto, C&C MkII, 
> Victoria, BC
> __
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Stus-List Structural glass work

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Hi folks.  
I’ve worked with fibreglass for years and have pretty much memorized the West 
epoxy how-to book. I want to learn more about engineering the reinforcements 
and repairs I’m doing.  Can anyone in the know recommend a good text book on 
the subject of marine composites which goes into more depth than your typical 
toilet tank page flipper.  
Thanks. 

Brent Driedger 
s/v Wild Rover
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Fun Sailing Videos

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I too peruse some of these, and during my hour long drive to the club I like to 
catch the 59 North Sailing Podcast. 
For those who haven’t tried this out, It’s hosted by a young guy who owns and 
charters a Swan 48 and along with great offshore ocean sailing dialogue, he 
also has fantastic interviews with famous sailors, designers and other people 
deep in the professional sailing community.  
Give it a go.  

Brent Driedger
s/v Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 25, 2018, at 3:05 PM, James Bibb via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Im with you!
> 
> Janes Bibb 
> C&C 34-36r Darwin’s Folly
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 25, 2018, at 12:03 PM, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Am I the only one who sits up late on week nights sailing vicariously 
>> through others' YouTube  videos? (while usually knocking back a few cold 
>> ones)
>> 
>> My favorites are:
>> S/V Delos - explores cultures of the world aboard a 53' Amel Super Miramu 
>> 2000 with 6 aboard
>> Abandon Comfort - young couple casting off in pursuit of minimalism
>> Another Adventure - Key West minimalist sailor, series is in it's infancy
>> Sailing LaVagabond - couple sailing the world aboard 45' new Otremer 
>> catamaran donated by the manufacturer
>> Sailing Zingaro - minimalist couple DIY fix-it
>> More daily...
>> 
>> Of course we sail every Thursday and at least every other weekend, so 
>> there's that. More cruising soon.
>> 
>> Anyone else?
>> 
>> --
>> Tim Rutherford
>> C&C 36 KCB Chamamé
>> DIYC Tampa, FL
>> ___
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Stus-List Winch sheeting angles

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Happy Saturday folks.  
I recently got my hands on a pair of old Barient 23ST’s for my 27-5.  Yes they 
are a size or so larger than needed but so what, I’m getting tired of grinding 
till I hurt.  
I attached one to the deck and went for a sail to test it out.  The performance 
was stellar but it had a tendency to make a mess unless the sheet was very 
tight. 
I’m thinking there’s an issue with the angle the sheet enters the winch at.  
The 18s these replaced were over an inch closer to the deck and the sheet 
entered right where the drum started.  Now the line enters about 8 degrees 
below that so the first wrap at the bottom tends to double up on itself and 
only self corrects if there’s a lot of pressure.  
Twice I had some ugly over rides starting from the first wrap at the bottom.  
My thoughts are that I will need a beveled base plate to tilt the winch 
slightly towards the lead car to cancel out the angle.  Unfortunately I cannot 
find any suggested entry angle literature on the net.  
Any suggestions are appreciated. 

Cheers. 
Brent Driedger
s/v Wild Rover
27-5 Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List 27 mk5 tuning

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Hi Mark.  
Did you see a copy of the Speed Pac issued in 1984 based on performance 
evaluation of Smoke, hull #1.  There’s great stuff in there.  The biggest item 
is the 27-5 likes lots of mast rake.   

Brent Driedger
27-5
Wild Rover.  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 16, 2018, at 6:08 PM, markbeggs17 via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I've got the info from the c&c 27 association site for mk5 tuning, but was wo 
> during if there is anyone out there with more tuning info.   I'm always 
> looking to get the boat moving a bit faster
> 
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
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Re: Stus-List Winch sheeting angles

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I used my 100 in 7 knots of wind for the test.  My sheets on this sail are old 
7/16” yacht braid (I think) which are not as slippery as my newer softer lines 
on my racing 3DL.  
Since I’ve increased the sheeting angle on the higher drum I really didn’t 
expect what is happening.  But the suggestion that the higher friction is not 
allowing the line to walk up the winch seems to make sense. 
The entry angle on my B18’s was closer to 0 degrees and only presented an issue 
if I had more than 3 wraps pre loaded before tacking.   Our method was two 
wraps until the Genoa crossed the deck and slack was taken up, add the third 
wrap, grind in first gear then trim to final in second gear.  
Possibly this all may just be learning a new technique.  

Thanks. 
Brent Driedger. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 19, 2018, at 10:46 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Brent,
> 
> Don't know what sail you flew for the trial but maybe try a smaller sail with 
> the jib lead/car moved way forward.  That should decrease the angle of entry. 
>  If the problem persists, it may not be the angle of entry.
> 
> Dennis C.


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Re: Stus-List 27 mk5 tuning

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Hi Mark. 
I sail with lots of rake, at least 12 inches. I really see the difference when 
returning to upwind and I’ve forgot to haul in the back stay tensioner.  I have 
found in addition to your comments, crew positions are extremely important in 
both heavy and light air but overall I sill have trouble pointing as well as 
the others. 
Mostly I sail a 155 3DL on a tuff luff and have a newish Dacron main.  I’ve 
never experimented with pre bend since it seems a little scary to me. The 
speedpac warns that the mast will go into compressive bend early so be careful! 
  Yikes.  
I’m not sailing the boat anywhere close to it’s rating but have seen the 
difference dumping about 1500 lbs of gear makes.  

Brent Driedger.  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 19, 2018, at 7:42 PM, markbeggs17  wrote:
> 
> Hi Brent,
> I have looked at the speed pac before.   It's pretty good.
> 
> I'm set up with about 12" of take this year, and I'm pointing pretty good.
> 
> I have a roller furling headsail, but race with a 155% tacked on the deck and 
> run up the furler.   It's ok, I think a tuff luff would be better, but I'm 
> not giving up the furler.   It's not worth it to me.
> 
> I have found that a clean bottom is a big key.  Its suprising how much a bit 
> of sludge slows you down.
> 
> Have you ever tried really emptying everything off the boat to loose weight?  
>  It's such a PITA to store everything, but if it really helps it's one free 
> step you can take.
> 
> How much take do you sail with and are you able to get much prebend in the 
> mast.   I find it's tough to get it to start bending.maybe I'm not 
> putting on enough tension.
> My loose gauge is old and I'm not sure that it registers right..
> 
> Thanks
> Mark


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Re: Stus-List yanmar diesel

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I'm experiencing the same issue with my 1GM10. I'm suspecting an air leak in 
the line. My trouble shooting thus far has only been replacing the fuel filter. 
I'm anxious to hear suggestions too. 

Brent Driedger
s/v Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 5, 2016, at 8:18 PM, Michael Jones via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello experts,
> 
> I wonder if you can help me with any suggestions. I have a C&C34 with a 3GM30 
> F. This motor runs well and smoothly, water circulates, no smoke. Recently it 
> has been taking more and more revolutions to get it started. When it is 
> turning over there does not appear to be anything going on, but when it 
> starts its immediately smooth and normal (no coughing and spluttering).
> 
> This leads me to think that there must be a leak in the fuel system which is 
> allowing the fuel to drain back out of the injectors. The fact that it seems 
> to start with all 3 cylinders suggests that the leak is before the injector 
> pump.
> 
> I cannot see any fuel leaking out at the supply pump or filter, so I'm 
> wondering if anyone can suggest where I should start looking? Or what might 
> cause this and not show fuel leaking or spraying out? I'd like to introduce 
> some method into my troubleshooting!
> 
> Thanks and regards
> 
> Mike Jones
> c&C34 Seanachai
> Oak Bay, Victoria.
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sep 25, 2016, at 6:09 AM, Dave S via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Good morning all.  Several weeks back there was a discussion surrounding 
>> issues with bulging keel castings in colder climates.   Been meaning to post 
>> some photos I took awhile back, here they are:
>> 
>> 
>> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/
>> 
>> 
>> Dave 33-2 Windstar
>> ___
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Re: Stus-List yanmar diesel

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Cold isn't my issue, this has been an ever increasing issue throughout the 
year.  I'm also suspecting fuel that's gone well past its shelf life.  
Replacing the fuel and cleaning the tank is next. It's been 8 years since I did 
it last and aside from topping up the tank in the fall with a gallon or two, I 
really haven't had a good clean fuel cycling.  I've probably only put 20 hours 
of run time on my engine since I got it!  

Brent
s/v Wild Rover
27-5

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 6, 2016, at 4:44 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> How cold is it where you are at?  With no glow plugs it takes more cranking 
> as it gets colder. 
> Joel 
> 
>> On Wednesday, October 5, 2016, Michael Jones via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hello experts,
>> 
>> I wonder if you can help me with any suggestions. I have a C&C34 with a 
>> 3GM30 F. This motor runs well and smoothly, water circulates, no smoke. 
>> Recently it has been taking more and more revolutions to get it started. 
>> When it is turning over there does not appear to be anything going on, but 
>> when it starts its immediately smooth and normal (no coughing and 
>> spluttering).
>> 
>> This leads me to think that there must be a leak in the fuel system which is 
>> allowing the fuel to drain back out of the injectors. The fact that it seems 
>> to start with all 3 cylinders suggests that the leak is before the injector 
>> pump.
>> 
>> I cannot see any fuel leaking out at the supply pump or filter, so I'm 
>> wondering if anyone can suggest where I should start looking? Or what might 
>> cause this and not show fuel leaking or spraying out? I'd like to introduce 
>> some method into my troubleshooting!
>> 
>> Thanks and regards
>> 
>> Mike Jones
>> c&C34 Seanachai
>> Oak Bay, Victoria.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sep 25, 2016, at 6:09 AM, Dave S via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Good morning all.  Several weeks back there was a discussion surrounding 
>>> issues with bulging keel castings in colder climates.   Been meaning to 
>>> post some photos I took awhile back, here they are:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Dave 33-2 Windstar
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
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