Re: Stus-List Cutless/cutlass/strut bearing replacement

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Hi Josh, I was just checking our driveshaft numbers yesterday as I will be 
coming out of the watwe at the end of the month and I want to replace the 
cutlass bearing then.  Our shift measures 1 1/4" as well according to the 
survey, an old worn out folding prop in my garage and a measurement I took 
about 9 months ago.  So. I'm thinking your boat may not be such an anomaly 
after all.  I have no idea what the strut is going to be like.All things being 
equal, I think I would either cut off the excess or align the forard side 
flush, just thinking that the blunter forward edge would be more likely to 
build positive water pressure, thus pushing water into and through the 
bearing.That's just a layman's guess though.Please keep us updated!Bruce 
Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+"Astralis"Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/9/20  12:09 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: C&C List 
 Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Cutless/cutlass/strut bearing replacement Well it seems that maybe 
the previous owner has replaced the shaft with a larger size.  A few other 37+ 
owners have stated that their shafts are 1-1/8th whereas mine is 1-1/4.  The 
original shaft would have come with a strut which would accommodate a bearing 
OD of 1-5/8 inch (1-1/8 x 1-5/8 x 4-1/2).  The smallest bearing OD for my 
larger 1-1/4 shaft is 1-3/4 (1-1/4 x 1-3/4 x 5).  It appears that the PO must 
have run into a similar problem with this combination of original strut and 
larger shaft and must have had the bearing turned down to 1-5/8 OD.Now for my 
next question.  After the machinist turned the bearing, he failed to cut it to 
a length of 4-1/2.   The result is a bearing which is 1/2 inch too long for the 
strut.  I can split the difference and leave 1/4 inch sticking out on either 
side of the strut.  Or some other fraction forward and aft.  Currently I have 
about 1/8th forward and 3/8th aft.  I'm not sure if this is good, bad, or 
indifferent and I'd like to get everyone's thoughts.  Cut it off?  Leave it?  
Move it flush on one side or the other?Thanks,Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 
C&C 37+Solomons, MDOn Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 16:03 Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:OK folks, I thought I was doing things the right 
way and incorporating all of the years of collective wisdom.  Wrong!  I'm doing 
a drive train rebuild and with the shaft out it only made sense to replace the 
strut bearing as well.  It didn't seem to need it but doing it with the shaft 
out seemed a lot easier than with it in and I know for a fact that the bearing 
is at least 8 years old and probably twice that.  I know I have a 1-1/4 shaft 
and the bearing is pretty thin walled so looking online at the availability of 
bearings it seemed that the only real option was a 1-1/4 x 1-1/2 x 5 inch 
bearing.  That's 1-1/4 ID and 1-1/2 OD.  Basically 1/8 total wall thickness 
(about 1/16th bronze and 1/16th rubber) Well I took it to the boat before 
destroying the old bearing and sure enough it looks like the right size.  Seems 
like it will fit just right.  I went ahead and destroyed the old bearing 
getting it out.  Compared the now destroyed bearing to the new one and again no 
indication of any incorrect size.  Today I brought the new bearing (fresh from 
the freezer) to the boat and much to my dismay it slipped right into the strut 
with no resistance and probably 1/16th of play all the way around.  If I had to 
guess, I would think that it is instead a 1-5/8ths strut not 1-1/2.  Ugh!  So I 
looked online and sure enough the only next closest size is 1-3/4.  That means 
1/4 inch wall thickness (1/8th inch metal, 1/8th rubber). This is when I 
recalled someone else on the list having a similar problem a few years ago.  I 
searched the archives and was unable to find the old post.  I've been to buck 
algonquin and a few other sites and Google searches only to find that the 
bearings jump from 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 with nothing in between.  I'm headed back to 
the boat with a set of calipers but unless it turns out to be a 1-3/4 and my 
eyes are simply due for calibration, I'm afraid I'm running out of options.  I 
know that the bearings can be turned down but that seems costly and 
unnecessary.  I'd like a better idea.All the best, Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD 
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Re: Stus-List 37/40 forward sink drain valve

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Interesting solution i had not considered!  I'll look to see if the fiberglass 
under the cabinet is solid.Thanks!Sent from Samsung tablet.
null___

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Re: Stus-List Cutless/cutlass/strut bearing replacement

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,

When I replaced mine I left the excess length on the forward side to add a tiny 
bit more support between the strut and the engine. Probably don't make a 
difference, but a friend of mine who owned a CS36 Merlin told me it could not 
be bad and maybe help to reduce vibrations. On his boat the shaft is very long 
with a fair length without any support. He always add trouble with vibrations 
and even broke the shaft in the Bahamas. Many variables there I agree...

After 5 years I don't see any premature wear to the bearing.

From an amateur sailor. I don't think it really matters, rear or forward. And I 
don't think the extra length hurts anything either.

You should see a noticeable improvement regarding vibrations with your 
drivetrain refit.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33-2
New-Richmond, Qc


Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 9 juil. 2020 à 07:43, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

Hi Josh, I was just checking our driveshaft numbers yesterday as I will be 
coming out of the watwe at the end of the month and I want to replace the 
cutlass bearing then.  Our shift measures 1 1/4" as well according to the 
survey, an old worn out folding prop in my garage and a measurement I took 
about 9 months ago.  So. I'm thinking your boat may not be such an anomaly 
after all.  I have no idea what the strut is going to be like.

All things being equal, I think I would either cut off the excess or align the 
forard side flush, just thinking that the blunter forward edge would be more 
likely to build positive water pressure, thus pushing water into and through 
the bearing.

That's just a layman's guess though.

Please keep us updated!

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+
"Astralis"



Sent from Samsung tablet.


 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 7/9/20 12:09 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: C&C List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cutless/cutlass/strut bearing replacement

Well it seems that maybe the previous owner has replaced the shaft with a 
larger size.  A few other 37+ owners have stated that their shafts are 1-1/8th 
whereas mine is 1-1/4.  The original shaft would have come with a strut which 
would accommodate a bearing OD of 1-5/8 inch (1-1/8 x 1-5/8 x 4-1/2).  The 
smallest bearing OD for my larger 1-1/4 shaft is 1-3/4 (1-1/4 x 1-3/4 x 5).  It 
appears that the PO must have run into a similar problem with this combination 
of original strut and larger shaft and must have had the bearing turned down to 
1-5/8 OD.

Now for my next question.  After the machinist turned the bearing, he failed to 
cut it to a length of 4-1/2.   The result is a bearing which is 1/2 inch too 
long for the strut.  I can split the difference and leave 1/4 inch sticking out 
on either side of the strut.  Or some other fraction forward and aft.  
Currently I have about 1/8th forward and 3/8th aft.  I'm not sure if this is 
good, bad, or indifferent and I'd like to get everyone's thoughts.  Cut it off? 
 Leave it?  Move it flush on one side or the other?

Thanks,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 16:03 Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
OK folks,

I thought I was doing things the right way and incorporating all of the years 
of collective wisdom.  Wrong!  I'm doing a drive train rebuild and with the 
shaft out it only made sense to replace the strut bearing as well.  It didn't 
seem to need it but doing it with the shaft out seemed a lot easier than with 
it in and I know for a fact that the bearing is at least 8 years old and 
probably twice that.  I know I have a 1-1/4 shaft and the bearing is pretty 
thin walled so looking online at the availability of bearings it seemed that 
the only real option was a 1-1/4 x 1-1/2 x 5 inch bearing.  That's 1-1/4 ID and 
1-1/2 OD.  Basically 1/8 total wall thickness (about 1/16th bronze and 1/16th 
rubber) Well I took it to the boat before destroying the old bearing and sure 
enough it looks like the right size.  Seems like it will fit just right.  I 
went ahead and destroyed the old bearing getting it out.  Compared the now 
destroyed bearing to the new one and again no indication of any incorrect size. 
 Today I brought the new bearing (fresh from the freezer) to the boat and much 
to my dismay it slipped right into the strut with no resistance and probably 
1/16th of play all the way around.  If I had to guess, I would think that it is 
instead a 1-5/8ths strut not 1-1/2.  Ugh!  So I looked online and sure enough 
the only next closest size is 1-3/4.  That means 1/4 inch wall thickness (1/8th 
inch metal, 1/8th rubber).

This is when I recalled someone else on the list having a similar problem a few 
years ago.  I searched the archives and was unable to find the old post.  I've 
been to buck algonquin and a few other sites and Google searches only to find 
that the bearings jump f

Stus-List HilleRange stove parts

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Hello C&C members,

If anyone has a HilleRange stove/range on their vessel and is in need of
spare parts please let me know. Everything is now posted on ebay [link
below].  For members on this list you can have them free and only pay
shipping. I carefully took everything apart and had to cut a few things in
order to get it through the doorway. But everything listed is in good shape.

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=324224174947&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=1

Regards
Brian
West Palm Beach,  FL 33412
(954) 892.1128
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List HilleRange stove parts

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 Brian, what did you install as a replacement? Thanks
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584;


Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Brian Davis via CnC-List 
To: C&c Stus List 
Cc: Brian Davis 
Sent: Thu, Jul 9, 2020 9:05 am
Subject: Stus-List HilleRange stove parts

Hello C&C members,
If anyone has a HilleRange stove/range on their vessel and is in need of spare 
parts please let me know. Everything is now posted on ebay [link below].  For 
members on this list you can have them free and only pay shipping. I carefully 
took everything apart and had to cut a few things in order to get it through 
the doorway. But everything listed is in good shape.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=324224174947&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=1

Regards BrianWest Palm Beach,  FL 33412(954) 
892.1128___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List HilleRange stove parts

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

I haven't yet just did demo in the main cabin. I'll probably replace it
in the fall. I saw some nice ones at a reasonable price on defender.com

On Thu, Jul 9, 2020, 9:18 AM Richard Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Brian, what did you install as a replacement? Thanks
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584;
>
>
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Brian Davis via CnC-List 
> To: C&c Stus List 
> Cc: Brian Davis 
> Sent: Thu, Jul 9, 2020 9:05 am
> Subject: Stus-List HilleRange stove parts
>
> Hello C&C members,
>
> If anyone has a HilleRange stove/range on their vessel and is in need of
> spare parts please let me know. Everything is now posted on ebay [link
> below].  For members on this list you can have them free and only pay
> shipping. I carefully took everything apart and had to cut a few things in
> order to get it through the doorway. But everything listed is in good shape.
>
>
> http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=324224174947&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=1
>
> Regards
> Brian
> West Palm Beach,  FL 33412
> (954) 892.1128
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List HilleRange stove parts

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Louisville,  KY?  I grew up in Jeffersontown just east and went to Male
High School downtown.  My dad ran the state for NCR corp back in the day.
Small world.

On Thu, Jul 9, 2020, 9:18 AM Richard Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Brian, what did you install as a replacement? Thanks
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584;
>
>
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Brian Davis via CnC-List 
> To: C&c Stus List 
> Cc: Brian Davis 
> Sent: Thu, Jul 9, 2020 9:05 am
> Subject: Stus-List HilleRange stove parts
>
> Hello C&C members,
>
> If anyone has a HilleRange stove/range on their vessel and is in need of
> spare parts please let me know. Everything is now posted on ebay [link
> below].  For members on this list you can have them free and only pay
> shipping. I carefully took everything apart and had to cut a few things in
> order to get it through the doorway. But everything listed is in good shape.
>
>
> http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=324224174947&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=1
>
> Regards
> Brian
> West Palm Beach,  FL 33412
> (954) 892.1128
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Seized SS Screw

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Graham,

  Phil Washhe has a J120 called Philharmonic about 7 slips to the 
east of mine at the club.  Phil is a retired machinist who has a 
complete machine shop in his basement at home.


I was trying for some time to remove the two seized SS stanchion 
screws/bolts with a Mastercraft Impact Driver. I was even hitting 
the outside one with a 5 lb. mallno luck.


Phil was walking from his boat, stopped, asked what was going on. He 
looked at the Mastercraft tool, said it was a piece of junk...said he 
would bring me one the next day that would do the job with a regular 
hammer..it was his Snap On Impact Driver.he was rightgot 
both the inside and outside seized screws/bolts loose.


He said even though I got the screws/bolts out of the stanchion, I would 
have a hard time separating the stanchion from its base.   So he said 
take the stanchion base/stanchion off the boat and give it to him.


Three days later the repaired unit was waiting for me in my cockpit.  He 
also replaced the two SS screws/bolts, one that holds the stanchion in 
the base and the inside one that holds the base to the toerail.   He 
gave me back the bottom 8 inches of the bent old stanchion where you 
could easy see the corrosion where it was also seized in the base.


Nice to have dock neighbours that have this kind of expertise,

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 7/8/2020 10:24 PM, Graham Collins wrote:


You have a friend who does free machine shop work for you and replaces 
stanchions for nothing?  I'd love to meet this person! :-)


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Seized SS Screw

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Graham,


  Phil Washhe has a J120 called Philharmonic about 7 slips to the 
east of mine at the club.  Phil is a retired machinist who has a 
complete machine shop in his basement at home.


I was trying for some time to remove the two seized SS stanchion 
screws/bolts with a Mastercraft Impact Driver. I was even hitting 
the outside one with a 5 lb. mallno luck.


Phil was walking from his boat, stopped, asked what was going on. He 
looked at the Mastercraft tool, said it was a piece of junk...said he 
would bring me one the next day that would do the job with a regular 
hammer..it was his Snap On Impact Driver.he was rightgot 
both the inside and outside seized screws/bolts loose.


He said even though I got the screws/bolts out of the stanchion, I 
would have a hard time separating the stanchion from its base. So he 
said take the stanchion base/stanchion off the boat and give it to him.


Three days later the repaired unit was waiting for me in my cockpit.  
He also replaced the two SS screws/bolts, one that holds the stanchion 
in the base and the inside one that holds the base to the toerail.   
He gave me back the bottom 8 inches of the bent old stanchion where 
you could easy see the corrosion where it was also seized in the base.


Nice to have dock neighbours that have this kind of expertise,

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 7/8/2020 10:24 PM, Graham Collins wrote:


You have a friend who does free machine shop work for you and 
replaces stanchions for nothing?  I'd love to meet this person! :-)


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11






___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List HilleRange stove parts

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 
 Yup! We sail on the Ohio RiverIf you ever get back this way, look us up, 
we'll go sailing!
Richard
 
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584;
Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Brian Davis via CnC-List 
To: C&c Stus List 
Cc: Brian Davis 
Sent: Thu, Jul 9, 2020 10:05 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List HilleRange stove parts

Louisville,  KY?  I grew up in Jeffersontown just east and went to Male High 
School downtown.  My dad ran the state for NCR corp back in the day. Small 
world.
On Thu, Jul 9, 2020, 9:18 AM Richard Bush via CnC-List  
wrote:

 Brian, what did you install as a replacement? Thanks
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584;


Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Brian Davis via CnC-List 
To: C&c Stus List 
Cc: Brian Davis 
Sent: Thu, Jul 9, 2020 9:05 am
Subject: Stus-List HilleRange stove parts

Hello C&C members,
If anyone has a HilleRange stove/range on their vessel and is in need of spare 
parts please let me know. Everything is now posted on ebay [link below].  For 
members on this list you can have them free and only pay shipping. I carefully 
took everything apart and had to cut a few things in order to get it through 
the doorway. But everything listed is in good shape.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=324224174947&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=1

Regards BrianWest Palm Beach,  FL 33412(954) 
892.1128___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Seized SS Screws

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Graham,

  Phil Washhe has a J120 called Philharmonic about 7 slips to the 
east of mine at the club.  Phil is a retired machinist who has a 
complete machine shop in his basement at home.


I was trying for some time to remove the two seized SS stanchion 
screws/bolts with a Mastercraft Impact Driver. I was even hitting 
the outside one with a 5 lb. mallno luck.


Phil was walking from his boat, stopped, asked what was going on. He 
looked at the Mastercraft tool, said it was a piece of junk...said he 
would bring me one the next day that would do the job with a regular 
hammer..it was his Snap On Impact Driver.he was rightgot 
both the inside and outside seized screws/bolts loose.


He said even though I got the screws/bolts out of the stanchion, I would 
have a hard time separating the stanchion from its base.   So he said 
take the stanchion base/stanchion off the boat and give it to him.


Three days later the repaired unit was waiting for me in my cockpit.  He 
also replaced the two SS screws/bolts, one that holds the stanchion in 
the base and the inside one that holds the base to the toerail.   He 
gave me back the bottom 8 inches of the bent old stanchion where you 
could easy see the corrosion where it was also seized in the base.


Nice to have dock neighbours that have this kind of expertise,

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 7/8/2020 10:24 PM, Graham Collins wrote:


You have a friend who does free machine shop work for you and replaces 
stanchions for nothing?  I'd love to meet this person!


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Seized SS Screws

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Phil is great!

Had to get slot in bottom of emergency tiller modified to fit over rudder post. 
 He said “drop it off at my house”.  Next day and $40 later it was sitting in 
my cockpit and phil had already test fitted it

Another time had an engine issue.  The retaining nut that holds governor 
flyweight assembly in place had come off.  While waiting for replacement part I 
showed the old (bent one) to Phil.  He had it back the next day and we used it 
to test the engine to ensure this was the cause of our issue.  Engine worked 
perfectly.  Plane was to take the end back off the engine to replace with new 
part when it arrived in 2 weeks.  Phil said not to bother since the repaired 
one would outlast the engine.  I still have the new part on a shelf at home ….

Mike

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Robert Abbott via 
CnC-List
Sent: July 9, 2020 11:23 AM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Robert Abbott 
Subject: Stus-List Seized SS Screws

Graham,

  Phil Washhe has a J120 called Philharmonic about 7 slips to the east of 
mine at the club.  Phil is a retired machinist who has a complete machine shop 
in his basement at home.

I was trying for some time to remove the two seized SS stanchion screws/bolts 
with a Mastercraft Impact Driver. I was even hitting the outside one with a 
5 lb. mallno luck.

Phil was walking from his boat, stopped, asked what was going on. He looked at 
the Mastercraft tool, said it was a piece of junk...said he would bring me one 
the next day that would do the job with a regular hammer..it was his Snap 
On Impact Driver.he was rightgot both the inside and outside seized 
screws/bolts loose.

He said even though I got the screws/bolts out of the stanchion, I would have a 
hard time separating the stanchion from its base.   So he said take the 
stanchion base/stanchion off the boat and give it to him.

Three days later the repaired unit was waiting for me in my cockpit.  He also 
replaced the two SS screws/bolts, one that holds the stanchion in the base and 
the inside one that holds the base to the toerail.   He gave me back the bottom 
8 inches of the bent old stanchion where you could easy see the corrosion where 
it was also seized in the base.

Nice to have dock neighbours that have this kind of expertise,

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 7/8/2020 10:24 PM, Graham Collins wrote:


You have a friend who does free machine shop work for you and replaces 
stanchions for nothing?  I'd love to meet this person!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
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Re: Stus-List HilleRange stove parts

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Sounds like a plan!

On Thu, Jul 9, 2020, 10:21 AM Richard Bush  wrote:

>
> Yup! We sail on the Ohio RiverIf you ever get back this way, look us
> up, we'll go sailing!
> Richard
>
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584;
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Brian Davis via CnC-List 
> To: C&c Stus List 
> Cc: Brian Davis 
> Sent: Thu, Jul 9, 2020 10:05 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List HilleRange stove parts
>
> Louisville,  KY?  I grew up in Jeffersontown just east and went to Male
> High School downtown.  My dad ran the state for NCR corp back in the day.
> Small world.
>
> On Thu, Jul 9, 2020, 9:18 AM Richard Bush via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Brian, what did you install as a replacement? Thanks
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584;
>
>
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Brian Davis via CnC-List 
> To: C&c Stus List 
> Cc: Brian Davis 
> Sent: Thu, Jul 9, 2020 9:05 am
> Subject: Stus-List HilleRange stove parts
>
> Hello C&C members,
>
> If anyone has a HilleRange stove/range on their vessel and is in need of
> spare parts please let me know. Everything is now posted on ebay [link
> below].  For members on this list you can have them free and only pay
> shipping. I carefully took everything apart and had to cut a few things in
> order to get it through the doorway. But everything listed is in good shape.
>
>
> http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=324224174947&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=1
>
> Regards
> Brian
> West Palm Beach,  FL 33412
> (954) 892.1128
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Cutless/cutlass/strut bearing replacement

[John Christopher via CnC-List]

Josh,

My bearing is longer than the strut (work done by a credible yard). That was in 
2016. I’ve had zero issues (I routinely check for play). 


/John

> On Jul 9, 2020, at 12:08 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
> 
> 
> Well it seems that maybe the previous owner has replaced the shaft with a 
> larger size.  A few other 37+ owners have stated that their shafts are 
> 1-1/8th whereas mine is 1-1/4.  The original shaft would have come with a 
> strut which would accommodate a bearing OD of 1-5/8 inch (1-1/8 x 1-5/8 x 
> 4-1/2).  The smallest bearing OD for my larger 1-1/4 shaft is 1-3/4 (1-1/4 x 
> 1-3/4 x 5).  It appears that the PO must have run into a similar problem with 
> this combination of original strut and larger shaft and must have had the 
> bearing turned down to 1-5/8 OD.
> 
> Now for my next question.  After the machinist turned the bearing, he failed 
> to cut it to a length of 4-1/2.   The result is a bearing which is 1/2 inch 
> too long for the strut.  I can split the difference and leave 1/4 inch 
> sticking out on either side of the strut.  Or some other fraction forward and 
> aft.  Currently I have about 1/8th forward and 3/8th aft.  I'm not sure if 
> this is good, bad, or indifferent and I'd like to get everyone's thoughts.  
> Cut it off?  Leave it?  Move it flush on one side or the other?
> 
> Thanks,
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
>> On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 16:03 Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> OK folks, 
>> 
>> I thought I was doing things the right way and incorporating all of the 
>> years of collective wisdom.  Wrong!  I'm doing a drive train rebuild and 
>> with the shaft out it only made sense to replace the strut bearing as well.  
>> It didn't seem to need it but doing it with the shaft out seemed a lot 
>> easier than with it in and I know for a fact that the bearing is at least 8 
>> years old and probably twice that.  I know I have a 1-1/4 shaft and the 
>> bearing is pretty thin walled so looking online at the availability of 
>> bearings it seemed that the only real option was a 1-1/4 x 1-1/2 x 5 inch 
>> bearing.  That's 1-1/4 ID and 1-1/2 OD.  Basically 1/8 total wall thickness 
>> (about 1/16th bronze and 1/16th rubber) Well I took it to the boat before 
>> destroying the old bearing and sure enough it looks like the right size.  
>> Seems like it will fit just right.  I went ahead and destroyed the old 
>> bearing getting it out.  Compared the now destroyed bearing to the new one 
>> and again no indication of any incorrect size.  Today I brought the new 
>> bearing (fresh from the freezer) to the boat and much to my dismay it 
>> slipped right into the strut with no resistance and probably 1/16th of play 
>> all the way around.  If I had to guess, I would think that it is instead a 
>> 1-5/8ths strut not 1-1/2.  Ugh!  So I looked online and sure enough the only 
>> next closest size is 1-3/4.  That means 1/4 inch wall thickness (1/8th inch 
>> metal, 1/8th rubber). 
>> 
>> This is when I recalled someone else on the list having a similar problem a 
>> few years ago.  I searched the archives and was unable to find the old post. 
>>  I've been to buck algonquin and a few other sites and Google searches only 
>> to find that the bearings jump from 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 with nothing in between.  
>> I'm headed back to the boat with a set of calipers but unless it turns out 
>> to be a 1-3/4 and my eyes are simply due for calibration, I'm afraid I'm 
>> running out of options.  I know that the bearings can be turned down but 
>> that seems costly and unnecessary.  I'd like a better idea.
>> 
>> 
>> All the best, 
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
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Re: Stus-List HilleRange stove parts

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Thanks Brian.  The right front burner on my HilleRange doesn’t work.  I’ve 
never tried to diagnose it, but I suspect some kind of blockage in its fuel 
line.  I’d pay for shipping on the fuel line and burner assembly for the right 
front burner.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Jul 9, 2020, at 7:05 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hello C&C members,
> 
> If anyone has a HilleRange stove/range on their vessel and is in need of 
> spare parts please let me know. Everything is now posted on ebay [link 
> below].  For members on this list you can have them free and only pay 
> shipping. I carefully took everything apart and had to cut a few things in 
> order to get it through the doorway. But everything listed is in good shape.
> 
> http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=324224174947&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=1
>  
> 
> 
> Regards 
> Brian
> West Palm Beach,  FL 33412
> (954) 892.1128
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Stus-List C&C 37 vs Hurricane Dorian

[NORTHERN LIGHT via CnC-List]

Hey guys,

sorry for the dramatic title, it was not meant to look like clickbait on a YT 
channel :)

But here’s a little story for the C&C community:

I spent the last 4 years prepping my boat, Northern Light for a passage to 
Europe and the Med, and finally last summer I left from Nova Scotia, 
destination, Azores. Just before hitting the Gulf Stream, on a windless day 
while motoring gently at 1500 rpm when my world turned upside down. The cockpit 
floor started shaking and the most horrendous grinding noise coming from under 
the binnacle…I stopped the engine, and went back in my bunk for some thinking. 
What could that have been? I put a Gopro on a boat hook and checked the prop to 
see if I had snagged a fishing line or something. All looked good underneath. I 
opened the engine hatch, all looked ok, I opened the cockpit access hatch and 
looked at the shaft, all was well, the shaft was not overheating. I started the 
engine again and it ran fine. I put it in gear and all sounded normal.

“I must be getting my hallucinations,” I thought. It was about the right time, 
after 3 days offshore, with some degree of sleep deprivation, normal SOP. So I 
proceeded to make some Vietnamese noodles and enjoy the calm day with a Podcast.

Half and hour later, the horror returns. Same noise, metal on metal. Yup, you 
guessed it guys, the tranny went bust, on a calm day, approaching the shipping 
lanes between New York and the English Channel.
But that was only the beginning of the story. Because the wind returned with a 
vengeance hours later and two foils on the furler detached at the top and now 
my 110% North jib got stuck between the two extrusions. When I tried to furl, I 
could only furl the bottom part of the sail, the top key flying like a burgee 
flag.

After sorting out the mess as best I could, I called on my crew Flavio (Italian 
based in Barcelona, long time friend with whom I crossed the Pacific some years 
back) and told him that we now have 2 problems. Back into my bunk for more 
thinking…

I now still had about 1500 miles to the Azores, I had no engine and no headsail 
I could count on. As hard as that decision was, it became clear that I had to 
abort the mission and return to base. Flavio was in agreement with me, so we 
put the tail between our legs and ran back to the motherland.

But wait, we’re not done yet…on the way back a vicious gale caught us over 
something called Emerald Bank. Guess why it called emerald…because the depth 
goes from 4000m to 300m and the waves are green, very green. It wasn’t the 
wind, but the sea state that forced me to heave to for 7 hours. Later on, the 
boys at Shinning Waters Marine told me that’s where the schooners used to break 
in half and disappear during storms in the past century or two.

This shall pass too, I thought, although by the sound of things below, we might 
never see that day.

Finally we did start sailing back under main and a little bit of jib but as we 
came closer to the coast the wind died. We were now going on the rocks at 
Peggy’s Cove. Out goes the dinghy, we inflate it on deck with a swell throwing 
us around, I out the outboard on, more acrobatics, lash the dinghy on the hind 
quarter and my little Tohatsu was now giving us 2.5 knots of steerage. 8 hours 
later we pick up a mooring in St. Margaret’s Bay, unassisted, unaided except 
for large amounts of coffee. Our friends Jim and Sue welcome us in their home, 
we drink beers, eat ribs and wondered what just happened. The goodbye party 
took place just 5 days earlier in the same company. Flavio and I look like two 
racoons who just had an unpleasant turn of events.

Now, you’d think this is enough to make a story end happily ever after, but no 
Sir, we’ve still a ways to go…

It took two months to find another, second hand transmission, and rebuild my 
old one. Now the hurricane season was in full swing, so too late to go to 
Europe. In my vast wisdom, I thought let’s go to the Bras d’Or Lakes, have a 
little fun so we at least get something out of this unlucky summer…unlucky 
being the key word here.

We set out and do a nice overnighter along the coast, being boarded twice by 
the RCMP fast tenders in the process, once in zero visibility with a dense fog 
and drizzle. Seeing a black 26-foot tender with 6 large, commando-dressed 
officers pull alongside in those conditions makes you think you’re once again 
hallucinating.

Anyways, yes, we have a beautiful fortnight of cruising the serene inner sea of 
Cape Breton, when a tropical storm is announced. Can’t remember the name of 
that one, but she had a name for sure. That was ok, no problem, I have a 44-lbs 
Rocna and 300-feet all chain rode, and we were tucked into Maskell’s Harbour, a 
very protected anchorage in the Great Bras d’Or. But then I see on Predictwind 
on my IridiumGo that Hurricane Dorian formed down south and was expected to 
arrive to Nova Scotia within 5 days. Us and our cruising buddies Jim and Sue 
start heading bac

Re: Stus-List C&C 37 vs Hurricane Dorian

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Great Story!

 

Bill Coleman

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of NORTHERN 
LIGHT via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 09, 2020 11:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: NORTHERN LIGHT
Subject: Stus-List C&C 37 vs Hurricane Dorian

 

Hey guys,

 

sorry for the dramatic title, it was not meant to look like clickbait on a YT 
channel :)

 

But here’s a little story for the C&C community:

 

I spent the last 4 years prepping my boat, Northern Light for a passage to 
Europe and the Med, and finally last summer I left from Nova Scotia, 
destination, Azores. Just before hitting the Gulf Stream, on a windless day 
while motoring gently at 1500 rpm when my world turned upside down. The cockpit 
floor started shaking and the most horrendous grinding noise coming from under 
the binnacle…I stopped the engine, and went back in my bunk for some thinking. 
What could that have been? I put a Gopro on a boat hook and checked the prop to 
see if I had snagged a fishing line or something. All looked good underneath. I 
opened the engine hatch, all looked ok, I opened the cockpit access hatch and 
looked at the shaft, all was well, the shaft was not overheating. I started the 
engine again and it ran fine. I put it in gear and all sounded normal.

 

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List C&C 37 vs Hurricane Dorian

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

Nice video.  

 

Those 37s are good looking boats. 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of NORTHERN LIGHT via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 9, 2020 10:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: NORTHERN LIGHT 
Subject: Stus-List C&C 37 vs Hurricane Dorian

 

Hey guys,

 

sorry for the dramatic title, it was not meant to look like clickbait on a YT 
channel :)

 

But here’s a little story for the C&C community:

 

I spent the last 4 years prepping my boat, Northern Light for a passage to 
Europe and the Med, and finally last summer I left from Nova Scotia, 
destination, Azores. Just before hitting the Gulf Stream, on a windless day 
while motoring gently at 1500 rpm when my world turned upside down. The cockpit 
floor started shaking and the most horrendous grinding noise coming from under 
the binnacle…I stopped the engine, and went back in my bunk for some thinking. 
What could that have been? I put a Gopro on a boat hook and checked the prop to 
see if I had snagged a fishing line or something. All looked good underneath. I 
opened the engine hatch, all looked ok, I opened the cockpit access hatch and 
looked at the shaft, all was well, the shaft was not overheating. I started the 
engine again and it ran fine. I put it in gear and all sounded normal.

 

“I must be getting my hallucinations,” I thought. It was about the right time, 
after 3 days offshore, with some degree of sleep deprivation, normal SOP. So I 
proceeded to make some Vietnamese noodles and enjoy the calm day with a Podcast.

 

Half and hour later, the horror returns. Same noise, metal on metal. Yup, you 
guessed it guys, the tranny went bust, on a calm day, approaching the shipping 
lanes between New York and the English Channel.

But that was only the beginning of the story. Because the wind returned with a 
vengeance hours later and two foils on the furler detached at the top and now 
my 110% North jib got stuck between the two extrusions. When I tried to furl, I 
could only furl the bottom part of the sail, the top key flying like a burgee 
flag.

 

After sorting out the mess as best I could, I called on my crew Flavio (Italian 
based in Barcelona, long time friend with whom I crossed the Pacific some years 
back) and told him that we now have 2 problems. Back into my bunk for more 
thinking…

 

I now still had about 1500 miles to the Azores, I had no engine and no headsail 
I could count on. As hard as that decision was, it became clear that I had to 
abort the mission and return to base. Flavio was in agreement with me, so we 
put the tail between our legs and ran back to the motherland.

 

But wait, we’re not done yet…on the way back a vicious gale caught us over 
something called Emerald Bank. Guess why it called emerald…because the depth 
goes from 4000m to 300m and the waves are green, very green. It wasn’t the 
wind, but the sea state that forced me to heave to for 7 hours. Later on, the 
boys at Shinning Waters Marine told me that’s where the schooners used to break 
in half and disappear during storms in the past century or two.

 

This shall pass too, I thought, although by the sound of things below, we might 
never see that day.

 

Finally we did start sailing back under main and a little bit of jib but as we 
came closer to the coast the wind died. We were now going on the rocks at 
Peggy’s Cove. Out goes the dinghy, we inflate it on deck with a swell throwing 
us around, I out the outboard on, more acrobatics, lash the dinghy on the hind 
quarter and my little Tohatsu was now giving us 2.5 knots of steerage. 8 hours 
later we pick up a mooring in St. Margaret’s Bay, unassisted, unaided except 
for large amounts of coffee. Our friends Jim and Sue welcome us in their home, 
we drink beers, eat ribs and wondered what just happened. The goodbye party 
took place just 5 days earlier in the same company. Flavio and I look like two 
racoons who just had an unpleasant turn of events.

 

Now, you’d think this is enough to make a story end happily ever after, but no 
Sir, we’ve still a ways to go…

 

It took two months to find another, second hand transmission, and rebuild my 
old one. Now the hurricane season was in full swing, so too late to go to 
Europe. In my vast wisdom, I thought let’s go to the Bras d’Or Lakes, have a 
little fun so we at least get something out of this unlucky summer…unlucky 
being the key word here.

 

We set out and do a nice overnighter along the coast, being boarded twice by 
the RCMP fast tenders in the process, once in zero visibility with a dense fog 
and drizzle. Seeing a black 26-foot tender with 6 large, commando-dressed 
officers pull alongside in those conditions makes you think you’re once again 
hallucinating.

 

Anyways, yes, we have a beautiful fortnight of cruising the serene inner sea of 
Cape Breton, when a tropical storm is announced. Can’t remember the name of 
that one, but she had a name for sure. That was ok, no problem, I have a 44-

Re: Stus-List C&C 37 vs Hurricane Dorian

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Great story.  Thanks for sharing.

Remind me to never, ever go sailing with you.  :)  LOL

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List C&C 37 vs Hurricane Dorian

[NORTHERN LIGHT via CnC-List]

@ Dennis, LOL, that was just one crazy summer…we had many years of 
trouble-free, happy cruising all over.

Chris
NL

> On Jul 9, 2020, at 13:32, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Great story.  Thanks for sharing.
> 
> Remind me to never, ever go sailing with you.  :)  LOL
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


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Re: Stus-List C&C 37 vs Hurricane Dorian

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Great story with a good ending. Another reason to keep “Ronin” in a shed sans 
keel and mast.  ;-)

Also. Nice boat…

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Jul 9, 2020, at 1:42 PM, NORTHERN LIGHT via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> @ Dennis, LOL, that was just one crazy summer…we had many years of 
> trouble-free, happy cruising all over.
> 
> Chris
> NL

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Re: Stus-List C&C 37 vs Hurricane Dorian

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I dunno, Dennis, this guys a survivor!

Any of the new Beneteau owners around here would have set off their EPRIB and 
abandoned the boat.

 

Beautiful country up there, BTW.

 

Bill Coleman

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 09, 2020 1:33 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37 vs Hurricane Dorian

 

Great story.  Thanks for sharing.

 

Remind me to never, ever go sailing with you.  :)  LOL

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List HilleRange stove parts

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

I replaced my hillerange with a Dickenson Mediterranean.  Found it at a 
secondhand store for 1/2 price, it looked brand new. Doug Mountjoysv Rebecca 
Leah C&C Landfall 39Port Orchard yacht club
 Original message From: Brian Davis via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/9/20  08:04  (GMT-07:00) To: C&c Stus List 
 Cc: Brian Davis  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List HilleRange stove parts I haven't yet just did demo in the main 
cabin. I'll probably replace it in the fall. I saw some nice ones at a 
reasonable price on defender.comOn Thu, Jul 9, 2020, 9:18 AM Richard Bush via 
CnC-List  wrote:

 Brian, what did you install as a replacement? Thanks


 



Richard

 

s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584;








Richard N. Bush Law Offices 


2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 


Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 


502-584-7255


 


 


-Original Message-
From: Brian Davis via CnC-List 
To: C&c Stus List 
Cc: Brian Davis 
Sent: Thu, Jul 9, 2020 9:05 am
Subject: Stus-List HilleRange stove parts



Hello C&C members,



If anyone has a HilleRange stove/range on their vessel and is in need of spare 
parts please let me know. Everything is now posted on ebay [link below].  For 
members on this list you can have them free and only pay shipping. I carefully 
took everything apart and had to cut a few things in order to get it through 
the doorway. But everything listed is in good shape.




http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=324224174947&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=1





Regards 

Brian

West Palm Beach,  FL 33412

(954) 892.1128


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Re: Stus-List Cutless/cutlass/strut bearing replacement

[Joel Delamirande via CnC-List]

Bonjour Bruno
Entre Québécois je voulais dire bonjour

On Thu, Jul 9, 2020 at 8:41 AM Bruno Lachance via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Josh,
>
> When I replaced mine I left the excess length on the forward side to add a
> tiny bit more support between the strut and the engine. Probably don't make
> a difference, but a friend of mine who owned a CS36 Merlin told me it could
> not be bad and maybe help to reduce vibrations. On his boat the shaft is
> very long with a fair length without any support. He always add trouble
> with vibrations and even broke the shaft in the Bahamas. Many variables
> there I agree...
>
> After 5 years I don't see any premature wear to the bearing.
>
> From an amateur sailor. I don't think it really matters, rear or forward.
> And I don't think the extra length hurts anything either.
>
> You should see a noticeable improvement regarding vibrations with your
> drivetrain refit.
>
> Bruno Lachance
> Bécassine, 33-2
> New-Richmond, Qc
>
>
> Envoyé de mon iPad
>
> Le 9 juil. 2020 à 07:43, bwhitmore via CnC-List  a
> écrit :
>
> Hi Josh, I was just checking our driveshaft numbers yesterday as I will be
> coming out of the watwe at the end of the month and I want to replace the
> cutlass bearing then.  Our shift measures 1 1/4" as well according to the
> survey, an old worn out folding prop in my garage and a measurement I took
> about 9 months ago.  So. I'm thinking your boat may not be such an anomaly
> after all.  I have no idea what the strut is going to be like.
>
> All things being equal, I think I would either cut off the excess or align
> the forard side flush, just thinking that the blunter forward edge would be
> more likely to build positive water pressure, thus pushing water into and
> through the bearing.
>
> That's just a layman's guess though.
>
> Please keep us updated!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+
> "Astralis"
>
>
>
> Sent from Samsung tablet.
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> Date: 7/9/20 12:09 AM (GMT-05:00)
> To: C&C List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Cutless/cutlass/strut bearing replacement
>
> Well it seems that maybe the previous owner has replaced the shaft with a
> larger size.  A few other 37+ owners have stated that their shafts are
> 1-1/8th whereas mine is 1-1/4.  The original shaft would have come with a
> strut which would accommodate a bearing OD of 1-5/8 inch (1-1/8 x 1-5/8 x
> 4-1/2).  The smallest bearing OD for my larger 1-1/4 shaft is 1-3/4 (1-1/4
> x 1-3/4 x 5).  It appears that the PO must have run into a similar problem
> with this combination of original strut and larger shaft and must have had
> the bearing turned down to 1-5/8 OD.
>
> Now for my next question.  After the machinist turned the bearing, he
> failed to cut it to a length of 4-1/2.   The result is a bearing which is
> 1/2 inch too long for the strut.  I can split the difference and leave 1/4
> inch sticking out on either side of the strut.  Or some other fraction
> forward and aft.  Currently I have about 1/8th forward and 3/8th aft.  I'm
> not sure if this is good, bad, or indifferent and I'd like to get
> everyone's thoughts.  Cut it off?  Leave it?  Move it flush on one side or
> the other?
>
> Thanks,
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 16:03 Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> OK folks,
>>
>> I thought I was doing things the right way and incorporating all of the
>> years of collective wisdom.  Wrong!  I'm doing a drive train rebuild and
>> with the shaft out it only made sense to replace the strut bearing as
>> well.  It didn't seem to need it but doing it with the shaft out seemed a
>> lot easier than with it in and I know for a fact that the bearing is at
>> least 8 years old and probably twice that.  I know I have a 1-1/4 shaft and
>> the bearing is pretty thin walled so looking online at the availability of
>> bearings it seemed that the only real option was a 1-1/4 x 1-1/2 x 5 inch
>> bearing.  That's 1-1/4 ID and 1-1/2 OD.  Basically 1/8 total wall thickness
>> (about 1/16th bronze and 1/16th rubber) Well I took it to the boat before
>> destroying the old bearing and sure enough it looks like the right size.
>> Seems like it will fit just right.  I went ahead and destroyed the old
>> bearing getting it out.  Compared the now destroyed bearing to the new one
>> and again no indication of any incorrect size.  Today I brought the new
>> bearing (fresh from the freezer) to the boat and much to my dismay it
>> slipped right into the strut with no resistance and probably 1/16th of play
>> all the way around.  If I had to guess, I would think that it is instead a
>> 1-5/8ths strut not 1-1/2.  Ugh!  So I looked online and sure enough the
>> only next closest size is 1-3/4.  That means 1/4 inch wall thickness (1/8th
>> inch metal, 1/8th rubber).
>>
>> This is when I recalled someone else on the list having a similar pr

Re: Stus-List C&C 37 vs Hurricane Dorian

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Wild story, Great drone footage, and beautiful boat, of course I am a bit 
partial as I have the same but an 82

Thanks for sharing

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
www.flirtingwithfire.net


On Jul 9, 2020, at 2:31 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I dunno, Dennis, this guys a survivor!
Any of the new Beneteau owners around here would have set off their EPRIB and 
abandoned the boat.

Beautiful country up there, BTW.

Bill Coleman

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 09, 2020 1:33 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37 vs Hurricane Dorian

Great story.  Thanks for sharing.

Remind me to never, ever go sailing with you.  :)  LOL

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Cutless/cutlass/strut bearing replacement

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,

Don't sweat the small stuff. It doesn't matter a 
wit if the cutlass bearing overhangs the strut by 
an 1/2, 1/4, 1/8 or is flush. Zero, nada.


I would centre the difference for ascetics reason and call it a day.

Interestingly I had this situation on Sweet (in 
the ol' days) and there was no interference in 
the fit. It didn't require thermal difference or 
a press-fit, simply relying on a set screw.
To backup the set screw a simple centre punch to 
raise a dimple fore & aft in the exposed ends can 
keep it from "walking out" of the strut.


Cheers, Russ
Vancouver Island



At 09:08 PM 7/8/2020, you wrote:
Well it seems that maybe the previous owner has 
replaced the shaft with a larger size.  A few 
other 37+ owners have stated that their shafts 
are 1-1/8th whereas mine is 1-1/4.  The 
original shaft would have come with a strut 
which would accommodate a bearing OD of 1-5/8 
inch (1-1/8 x 1-5/8 x 4-1/2).  The smallest 
bearing OD for my larger 1-1/4 shaft is 1-3/4 
(1-1/4 x 1-3/4 x 5).  It appears that the PO 
must have run into a similar problem with this 
combination of original strut and larger shaft 
and must have had the bearing turned down to 1-5/8 OD.


Now for my next question.  After the machinist 
turned the bearing, he failed to cut it to a 
length of 4-1/2.   The result is a bearing 
which is 1/2 inch too long for the strut.  I 
can split the difference and leave 1/4 inch 
sticking out on either side of the strut.  Or 
some other fraction forward and aft.  Currently 
I have about 1/8th forward and 3/8th aft.  I'm 
not sure if this is good, bad, or indifferent 
and I'd like to get everyone's thoughts.  Cut 
it off?  Leave it?  Move it flush on one side or the other?


Thanks,
Josh MuckleyÂ
S/V Sea HawkÂ
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



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