Hi Josh, I was just checking our driveshaft numbers yesterday as I will be coming out of the watwe at the end of the month and I want to replace the cutlass bearing then. Our shift measures 1 1/4" as well according to the survey, an old worn out folding prop in my garage and a measurement I took about 9 months ago. So. I'm thinking your boat may not be such an anomaly after all. I have no idea what the strut is going to be like.All things being equal, I think I would either cut off the excess or align the forard side flush, just thinking that the blunter forward edge would be more likely to build positive water pressure, thus pushing water into and through the bearing.That's just a layman's guess though.Please keep us updated!Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+"Astralis"Sent from Samsung tablet. -------- Original message --------From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 7/9/20 12:09 AM (GMT-05:00) To: C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Cutless/cutlass/strut bearing replacement Well it seems that maybe the previous owner has replaced the shaft with a larger size. A few other 37+ owners have stated that their shafts are 1-1/8th whereas mine is 1-1/4. The original shaft would have come with a strut which would accommodate a bearing OD of 1-5/8 inch (1-1/8 x 1-5/8 x 4-1/2). The smallest bearing OD for my larger 1-1/4 shaft is 1-3/4 (1-1/4 x 1-3/4 x 5). It appears that the PO must have run into a similar problem with this combination of original strut and larger shaft and must have had the bearing turned down to 1-5/8 OD.Now for my next question. After the machinist turned the bearing, he failed to cut it to a length of 4-1/2. The result is a bearing which is 1/2 inch too long for the strut. I can split the difference and leave 1/4 inch sticking out on either side of the strut. Or some other fraction forward and aft. Currently I have about 1/8th forward and 3/8th aft. I'm not sure if this is good, bad, or indifferent and I'd like to get everyone's thoughts. Cut it off? Leave it? Move it flush on one side or the other?Thanks,Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MDOn Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 16:03 Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:OK folks, I thought I was doing things the right way and incorporating all of the years of collective wisdom. Wrong! I'm doing a drive train rebuild and with the shaft out it only made sense to replace the strut bearing as well. It didn't seem to need it but doing it with the shaft out seemed a lot easier than with it in and I know for a fact that the bearing is at least 8 years old and probably twice that. I know I have a 1-1/4 shaft and the bearing is pretty thin walled so looking online at the availability of bearings it seemed that the only real option was a 1-1/4 x 1-1/2 x 5 inch bearing. That's 1-1/4 ID and 1-1/2 OD. Basically 1/8 total wall thickness (about 1/16th bronze and 1/16th rubber) Well I took it to the boat before destroying the old bearing and sure enough it looks like the right size. Seems like it will fit just right. I went ahead and destroyed the old bearing getting it out. Compared the now destroyed bearing to the new one and again no indication of any incorrect size. Today I brought the new bearing (fresh from the freezer) to the boat and much to my dismay it slipped right into the strut with no resistance and probably 1/16th of play all the way around. If I had to guess, I would think that it is instead a 1-5/8ths strut not 1-1/2. Ugh! So I looked online and sure enough the only next closest size is 1-3/4. That means 1/4 inch wall thickness (1/8th inch metal, 1/8th rubber). This is when I recalled someone else on the list having a similar problem a few years ago. I searched the archives and was unable to find the old post. I've been to buck algonquin and a few other sites and Google searches only to find that the bearings jump from 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 with nothing in between. I'm headed back to the boat with a set of calipers but unless it turns out to be a 1-3/4 and my eyes are simply due for calibration, I'm afraid I'm running out of options. I know that the bearings can be turned down but that seems costly and unnecessary. I'd like a better idea.All the best, Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD _______________________________________________
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