Josh, My bearing is longer than the strut (work done by a credible yard). That was in 2016. I’ve had zero issues (I routinely check for play).
/John > On Jul 9, 2020, at 12:08 AM, Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> wrote: > > > Well it seems that maybe the previous owner has replaced the shaft with a > larger size. A few other 37+ owners have stated that their shafts are > 1-1/8th whereas mine is 1-1/4. The original shaft would have come with a > strut which would accommodate a bearing OD of 1-5/8 inch (1-1/8 x 1-5/8 x > 4-1/2). The smallest bearing OD for my larger 1-1/4 shaft is 1-3/4 (1-1/4 x > 1-3/4 x 5). It appears that the PO must have run into a similar problem with > this combination of original strut and larger shaft and must have had the > bearing turned down to 1-5/8 OD. > > Now for my next question. After the machinist turned the bearing, he failed > to cut it to a length of 4-1/2. The result is a bearing which is 1/2 inch > too long for the strut. I can split the difference and leave 1/4 inch > sticking out on either side of the strut. Or some other fraction forward and > aft. Currently I have about 1/8th forward and 3/8th aft. I'm not sure if > this is good, bad, or indifferent and I'd like to get everyone's thoughts. > Cut it off? Leave it? Move it flush on one side or the other? > > Thanks, > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > >> On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 16:03 Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> wrote: >> OK folks, >> >> I thought I was doing things the right way and incorporating all of the >> years of collective wisdom. Wrong! I'm doing a drive train rebuild and >> with the shaft out it only made sense to replace the strut bearing as well. >> It didn't seem to need it but doing it with the shaft out seemed a lot >> easier than with it in and I know for a fact that the bearing is at least 8 >> years old and probably twice that. I know I have a 1-1/4 shaft and the >> bearing is pretty thin walled so looking online at the availability of >> bearings it seemed that the only real option was a 1-1/4 x 1-1/2 x 5 inch >> bearing. That's 1-1/4 ID and 1-1/2 OD. Basically 1/8 total wall thickness >> (about 1/16th bronze and 1/16th rubber) Well I took it to the boat before >> destroying the old bearing and sure enough it looks like the right size. >> Seems like it will fit just right. I went ahead and destroyed the old >> bearing getting it out. Compared the now destroyed bearing to the new one >> and again no indication of any incorrect size. Today I brought the new >> bearing (fresh from the freezer) to the boat and much to my dismay it >> slipped right into the strut with no resistance and probably 1/16th of play >> all the way around. If I had to guess, I would think that it is instead a >> 1-5/8ths strut not 1-1/2. Ugh! So I looked online and sure enough the only >> next closest size is 1-3/4. That means 1/4 inch wall thickness (1/8th inch >> metal, 1/8th rubber). >> >> This is when I recalled someone else on the list having a similar problem a >> few years ago. I searched the archives and was unable to find the old post. >> I've been to buck algonquin and a few other sites and Google searches only >> to find that the bearings jump from 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 with nothing in between. >> I'm headed back to the boat with a set of calipers but unless it turns out >> to be a 1-3/4 and my eyes are simply due for calibration, I'm afraid I'm >> running out of options. I know that the bearings can be turned down but >> that seems costly and unnecessary. I'd like a better idea. >> >> >> All the best, >> >> Josh Muckley >> S/V Sea Hawk >> 1989 C&C 37+ >> Solomons, MD >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and >> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>
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