Josh,

My bearing is longer than the strut (work done by a credible yard). That was in 
2016. I’ve had zero issues (I routinely check for play). 


/John

> On Jul 9, 2020, at 12:08 AM, Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> Well it seems that maybe the previous owner has replaced the shaft with a 
> larger size.  A few other 37+ owners have stated that their shafts are 
> 1-1/8th whereas mine is 1-1/4.  The original shaft would have come with a 
> strut which would accommodate a bearing OD of 1-5/8 inch (1-1/8 x 1-5/8 x 
> 4-1/2).  The smallest bearing OD for my larger 1-1/4 shaft is 1-3/4 (1-1/4 x 
> 1-3/4 x 5).  It appears that the PO must have run into a similar problem with 
> this combination of original strut and larger shaft and must have had the 
> bearing turned down to 1-5/8 OD.
> 
> Now for my next question.  After the machinist turned the bearing, he failed 
> to cut it to a length of 4-1/2.   The result is a bearing which is 1/2 inch 
> too long for the strut.  I can split the difference and leave 1/4 inch 
> sticking out on either side of the strut.  Or some other fraction forward and 
> aft.  Currently I have about 1/8th forward and 3/8th aft.  I'm not sure if 
> this is good, bad, or indifferent and I'd like to get everyone's thoughts.  
> Cut it off?  Leave it?  Move it flush on one side or the other?
> 
> Thanks,
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
>> On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 16:03 Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> wrote:
>> OK folks, 
>> 
>> I thought I was doing things the right way and incorporating all of the 
>> years of collective wisdom.  Wrong!  I'm doing a drive train rebuild and 
>> with the shaft out it only made sense to replace the strut bearing as well.  
>> It didn't seem to need it but doing it with the shaft out seemed a lot 
>> easier than with it in and I know for a fact that the bearing is at least 8 
>> years old and probably twice that.  I know I have a 1-1/4 shaft and the 
>> bearing is pretty thin walled so looking online at the availability of 
>> bearings it seemed that the only real option was a 1-1/4 x 1-1/2 x 5 inch 
>> bearing.  That's 1-1/4 ID and 1-1/2 OD.  Basically 1/8 total wall thickness 
>> (about 1/16th bronze and 1/16th rubber) Well I took it to the boat before 
>> destroying the old bearing and sure enough it looks like the right size.  
>> Seems like it will fit just right.  I went ahead and destroyed the old 
>> bearing getting it out.  Compared the now destroyed bearing to the new one 
>> and again no indication of any incorrect size.  Today I brought the new 
>> bearing (fresh from the freezer) to the boat and much to my dismay it 
>> slipped right into the strut with no resistance and probably 1/16th of play 
>> all the way around.  If I had to guess, I would think that it is instead a 
>> 1-5/8ths strut not 1-1/2.  Ugh!  So I looked online and sure enough the only 
>> next closest size is 1-3/4.  That means 1/4 inch wall thickness (1/8th inch 
>> metal, 1/8th rubber). 
>> 
>> This is when I recalled someone else on the list having a similar problem a 
>> few years ago.  I searched the archives and was unable to find the old post. 
>>  I've been to buck algonquin and a few other sites and Google searches only 
>> to find that the bearings jump from 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 with nothing in between.  
>> I'm headed back to the boat with a set of calipers but unless it turns out 
>> to be a 1-3/4 and my eyes are simply due for calibration, I'm afraid I'm 
>> running out of options.  I know that the bearings can be turned down but 
>> that seems costly and unnecessary.  I'd like a better idea.
>> 
>> 
>> All the best, 
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD 
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