Stus-List CnC34—Anything to pay attention to?

[Will Gerstmyer via CnC-List]

Looking at a ‘81 34 which, besides the galley, looks like a cotton-shrunk 
version of my old 41. Any issues particularly relevant to survey on this model? 
Thanks, Will

Will Gerstmyer 
978-609-1331
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Anchor Locker Access

[David Morris via CnC-List]

Our 1975 C&C 3

 

 

 

David J. Morris, MBA
President, D.J. Morris & Associates Ltd.
24 St. Paul's Place, Kingston, ON  K7M 7S3

Tel. 613-531-4429
email:   djmor...@djma-ltd.com
Member: Canadian Freelance Guild

Blogging at:  
http://davidmorrisjourneys.wordpress.com/

 



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Anchor Locker Access

[David Morris via CnC-List]

(Apologies, premature send on the previous)

 

At some point in its history, a now-dysfunctional South Pacific VS1000C
windlass was added to our 1975 C&C 30 MK1. The through-deck access to the
anchor locker is via the windlass, hand-cranked, and its through-deck hole,
just big enough for a 5/16" chain to pass, and not big enough to allow
smooth passage of a typical rode connected to the chain. Even the smallest
of thimble on looped rode causes problems. Can anyone tell me what the
original MK1 top-side access to the anchor locker looked like, if in fact
access was even part of the design? Also, does anyone have experience
rebuilding the VS1000C windlass? Ours sounds like an old starter motor when
the Bendix won't engage.   

 

 

David J. Morris, MBA
President, D.J. Morris & Associates Ltd.
24 St. Paul's Place, Kingston, ON  K7M 7S3

Tel. 613-531-4429
email:   djmor...@djma-ltd.com
Member: Canadian Freelance Guild

Blogging at:  
http://davidmorrisjourneys.wordpress.com/

 



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List CnC34—Anything to pay attention to?

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

Get someone who knows how to use a moisture meter to look for core problems 
below the waterline.  My 1978 boat underwent substantial repairs (done by a 
prior owner).  Also look for bulkhead tabbing issues (although easily fixed). I 
also had a persistent water leak from the deck in the galley I could never 
figure out (starboard side on my boat).  Not a huge problem, but over time 
water separated a small area of plywood bulkhead near the floor by the stove.

Overall, a good boat.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Will Gerstmyer via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 7:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Will Gerstmyer 
Subject: Stus-List CnC34—Anything to pay attention to?

Looking at a ‘81 34 which, besides the galley, looks like a cotton-shrunk 
version of my old 41. Any issues particularly relevant to survey on this model? 
Thanks, Will

Will Gerstmyer 
978-609-1331
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: boat painting in Washington NC

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I am getting a bit confused.
“Hull” to me means the waterline and up, not bottom paint. The deck is the 
deck. “Topsides” is generic for anything that isn’t bottom paint.
So is $125/ft. the hull, the deck, or both?
Thanks!


Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Conklin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2020 11:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Conklin 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List boat painting in Washington NC

Rick mentioned topsides, did not see any mention of hull. I would sign up 
tomorow for both @$125/ft ! Do they remove harware to?  or just tape everyting 
off ?
John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
www.flirtingwithfire.net


On Jun 11, 2020, at 11:25 PM, cscheaffer via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Is the price per foot including hull and deck?



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


 Original message 
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 6/11/20 10:24 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List boat painting in Washington NC

Jim already jumped on your question. But, yes, I had the topsides painted in 
2017 by William and Beau (the company name is Washington Yacht Service, but the 
phone number is the one below).  We/they used Alexseal paint (similar to 
Awlgrip but much less expensive). I’d need to check but I think it cost $125 
per foot.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of detroito91 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 5, 2020 1:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: detroito91 mailto:detroit...@aol.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List boat painting in Washington NC

I didn't quote any prices but I believe rick brass did.
The person he was talking about was.  William keener
   919.395.8761
He does all of our work. Give him a  call. Great to work with.
I'll let him know you may be calling.

Jim Schwartz
SEA YA!
38 landfall
Washington nc


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


 Original message 
From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 6/5/20 12:57 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>>
Subject: Stus-List boat painting in Washington NC

Some time ago someone posted the price to get a boat painted in NC that was WAY 
under anything around here.
Does anyone recall the name of the yard that does this?


Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: boat painting in Washington NC

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

FWIW, “hull” to me means from the gunwales down.  Freeboard is the section 
between the gunwales and the waterline.

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 8:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: boat painting in Washington NC

 

I am getting a bit confused.

“Hull” to me means the waterline and up, not bottom paint. The deck is the 
deck. “Topsides” is generic for anything that isn’t bottom paint.

So is $125/ft. the hull, the deck, or both?

Thanks!

 

 

Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I

www.dellabarba.com  

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Conklin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2020 11:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: John Conklin mailto:jconk...@hotmail.com> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List boat painting in Washington NC

 

Rick mentioned topsides, did not see any mention of hull. I would sign up 
tomorow for both @$125/ft ! Do they remove harware to?  or just tape everyting 
off ? 

John Conklin 

S/V Halcyon

www.flirtingwithfire.net 

 

 


On Jun 11, 2020, at 11:25 PM, cscheaffer via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Is the price per foot including hull and deck?

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

 

 Original message 

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 6/11/20 10:24 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Rick Brass mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net> > 

Subject: Re: Stus-List boat painting in Washington NC 

 

Jim already jumped on your question. But, yes, I had the topsides painted in 
2017 by William and Beau (the company name is Washington Yacht Service, but the 
phone number is the one below).  We/they used Alexseal paint (similar to 
Awlgrip but much less expensive). I’d need to check but I think it cost $125 
per foot.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of detroito91 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 5, 2020 1:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: detroito91 mailto:detroit...@aol.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List boat painting in Washington NC

 

I didn't quote any prices but I believe rick brass did.

The person he was talking about was.  William keener 

   919.395.8761

He does all of our work. Give him a  call. Great to work with.

I'll let him know you may be calling.

 

Jim Schwartz 

SEA YA!

38 landfall 

Washington nc 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

 

 Original message 

From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 6/5/20 12:57 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> > 

Subject: Stus-List boat painting in Washington NC 

 

Some time ago someone posted the price to get a boat painted in NC that was WAY 
under anything around here.

Does anyone recall the name of the yard that does this?

 

 

Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I

www.dellabarba.com 

 

 

 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Anchor locker access

[rick bushie via CnC-List]

Anchovy has an oval hawse pipe about 3”x2” with a cap adjacent to the stem 
fitting. No windlass...I wouldn’t think that a windlass would be a factory 
original install on such a small boat.  I do want a windlass, though.

Rick Bushie
Anchovy, 1971 30-1
Tolchester, MD 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List CnC34?Anything to pay attention to?

[Paul Hood via CnC-List]

Great boat.  Had same location of water leak on mine.  Seems after a few
seasons I have it licked.  It appeared to be the companion way sliding lid
cover.  Mast step deterioration and bulkhead to hull "tabbing" (I think
that's what you'd call it down there), maybe as most boats.  Otherwise
nothing out of the ordinary checks.  

What the motor?

Paul Hood
'81 C&C 34 Georgian Bay

From: 

Get someone who knows how to use a moisture meter to look for core problems
below the waterline.  My 1978 boat underwent substantial repairs (done by a
prior owner).  Also look for bulkhead tabbing issues (although easily
fixed). I also had a persistent water leak from the deck in the galley I
could never figure out (starboard side on my boat).  Not a huge problem, but
over time water separated a small area of plywood bulkhead near the floor by
the stove.

Overall, a good boat.

Cc: Will Gerstmyer 
Subject: Stus-List CnC34?Anything to pay attention to?

Looking at a ?81 34 which, besides the galley, looks like a cotton-shrunk
version of my old 41. Any issues particularly relevant to survey on this
model? Thanks, Will

Will Gerstmyer
978-609-1331



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: boat painting in Washington NC

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Topsides is what you call the pat of the boat between the waterline and gunwale.
Andy

Andrew Burton
26 Beacon Hill
Newport, RI 
USA02840

www.burtonsailing.com
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Jun 12, 2020, at 08:33, Matt Wolford via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> FWIW, “hull” to me means from the gunwales down.  Freeboard is the section 
> between the gunwales and the waterline.
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 8:25 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: boat painting in Washington NC
>  
> I am getting a bit confused.
> “Hull” to me means the waterline and up, not bottom paint. The deck is the 
> deck. “Topsides” is generic for anything that isn’t bottom paint.
> So is $125/ft. the hull, the deck, or both?
> Thanks!
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I
> www.dellabarba.com
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John 
> Conklin via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2020 11:49 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: John Conklin 
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List boat painting in Washington NC
>  
> Rick mentioned topsides, did not see any mention of hull. I would sign up 
> tomorow for both @$125/ft ! Do they remove harware to?  or just tape 
> everyting off ? 
> 
> John Conklin
> S/V Halcyon
> www.flirtingwithfire.net
>  
> 
> On Jun 11, 2020, at 11:25 PM, cscheaffer via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Is the price per foot including hull and deck?
>  
>  
>  
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>  
>  
>  Original message 
> From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
> Date: 6/11/20 10:24 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Rick Brass 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List boat painting in Washington NC
>  
> Jim already jumped on your question. But, yes, I had the topsides painted in 
> 2017 by William and Beau (the company name is Washington Yacht Service, but 
> the phone number is the one below).  We/they used Alexseal paint (similar to 
> Awlgrip but much less expensive). I’d need to check but I think it cost $125 
> per foot.
>  
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of detroito91 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, June 5, 2020 1:43 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: detroito91 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List boat painting in Washington NC
>  
> I didn't quote any prices but I believe rick brass did.
> The person he was talking about was.  William keener 
>919.395.8761
> He does all of our work. Give him a  call. Great to work with.
> I'll let him know you may be calling.
>  
> Jim Schwartz 
> SEA YA!
> 38 landfall 
> Washington nc 
>  
>  
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>  
>  
>  Original message 
> From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
> Date: 6/5/20 12:57 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" 
> Subject: Stus-List boat painting in Washington NC
>  
> Some time ago someone posted the price to get a boat painted in NC that was 
> WAY under anything around here.
> Does anyone recall the name of the yard that does this?
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I
> www.dellabarba.com
>  
>  
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

So I’m looking to add a dinghy and motor to the Enterprise to take advantage of 
some of the fantastic anchorages in the area (and yes, the dinghy will be named 
“Galileo”). But II have some limitations — I don’t want to install davits on my 
stern and I have no place at my club to store the dinghy when not being used. 

Question 1: Does anyone have experience with these roll-up inflatables? Any 
recommendations? They appear to be around 50 pounds and fairly easy to inflate 
and repack. I see prices ranging from $300 to $1,000. They look to be very 
workable and I can stow them in the v-berth when not in use. 

Questions 2: When it comes to a motor, I’d like to avoid a gas engine. I hear 
nothing but problems keeping those things running well and I’m no expert 
mechanic like Josh. I’m not sure I’d want to shell out the big bucks for a 
Torqueedo, but I’d like to know if anyone on the list has experience with other 
electrics or propane outboards. I want lightweight and I don’t need speed — 
just something t get me to a beach. 

Thanks all!  

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 











___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: boat painting in Washington NC

[detroito91 via CnC-List]

For best results and answers call william keener.  He'll give you everything. 
919.395.8761JimSent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
 Date: 6/12/20  8:25 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Della Barba, Joe"  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL]   Re:  boat painting in Washington NC 

I am getting a bit confused.
“Hull” to me means the waterline and up, not bottom paint. The deck is the 
deck. “Topsides” is generic for anything that isn’t bottom paint.
So is $125/ft. the hull, the deck, or both?
Thanks!
 
 
Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com
 
 
 


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of John Conklin via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2020 11:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Conklin 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List boat painting in Washington NC


 
Rick mentioned topsides, did not see any mention of hull. I would sign up 
tomorow for both @$125/ft ! Do they remove harware to?  or just tape everyting 
off ? 

John Conklin 

S/V Halcyon


www.flirtingwithfire.net


 






On Jun 11, 2020, at 11:25 PM, cscheaffer via CnC-List  
wrote:




Is the price per foot including hull and deck?


 


 


 



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone



 


 



 Original message 


From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 



Date: 6/11/20 10:24 PM (GMT-05:00)



To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com 


Cc: Rick Brass 



Subject: Re: Stus-List boat painting in Washington NC



 



Jim already jumped on your question. But, yes, I had the topsides painted in 
2017 by William and Beau
 (the company name is Washington Yacht Service, but the phone number is the one 
below).  We/they used Alexseal paint (similar to Awlgrip but
much less expensive). I’d need to check but I think it cost $125 per foot.
 
 
Rick Brass
Washington, NC
 
 
 


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of detroito91 via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 5, 2020 1:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: detroito91 
Subject: Re: Stus-List boat painting in Washington NC


 

I didn't quote any prices but I believe rick brass did.


The person he was talking about was.  William keener 


           919.395.8761


He does all of our work. Give him a  call. Great to work with.


I'll let him know you may be calling.


 


Jim Schwartz 


SEA YA!


38 landfall 


Washington nc 


 


 



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone



 


 



 Original message 


From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 



Date: 6/5/20 12:57 PM (GMT-05:00)



To:
cnc-list@cnc-list.com 


Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" 



Subject: Stus-List boat painting in Washington NC



 



Some time ago someone posted the price to get a boat painted in NC that was WAY 
under anything around
 here.
Does anyone recall the name of the yard that does this?
 
 
Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com
 
 
 






___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I love this website for cheap(ish) inflatables:
https://www.boatstogo.com/
Tons of boats to pick from there.
We used to have a de-flatable inflatable. It was a bit of a nuisance to inflate 
it or put it back in its bag, but it did ride around in the quarter berth when 
we didn’t want to tow it and didn’t require a dinghy rack or space to store it.
I am not a fan of electric dinghy motors myself, but I know some that are.  It 
really depends on how fast and how far you want to go and how long you stay 
out. Recharging a dead dinghy battery is going to take quite some time compared 
to adding a couple quarts of gas. Considering how little fuel a 2 or 3 HP 
dinghy engine uses, a 5 gallon can of 100 octane from the airport will probably 
last you a whole year and there is no ethanol to go bad. I use regular gas for 
mine, but always add SeaFoam and run the gas out EVERY NIGHT when I am done 
using the dinghy. If you just turn off the engine you will have issues.


Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 10:59 AM
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

Listers,

So I’m looking to add a dinghy and motor to the Enterprise to take advantage of 
some of the fantastic anchorages in the area (and yes, the dinghy will be named 
“Galileo”). But II have some limitations — I don’t want to install davits on my 
stern and I have no place at my club to store the dinghy when not being used.

Question 1: Does anyone have experience with these roll-up inflatables? Any 
recommendations? They appear to be around 50 pounds and fairly easy to inflate 
and repack. I see prices ranging from $300 to $1,000. They look to be very 
workable and I can stow them in the v-berth when not in use.

Questions 2: When it comes to a motor, I’d like to avoid a gas engine. I hear 
nothing but problems keeping those things running well and I’m no expert 
mechanic like Josh. I’m not sure I’d want to shell out the big bucks for a 
Torqueedo, but I’d like to know if anyone on the list has experience with other 
electrics or propane outboards. I want lightweight and I don’t need speed — 
just something t get me to a beach.

Thanks all!

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's 
Log












___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

First, make sure whatever inflatable you buy has thermowelded seams.  I
think all of them should be that way now.  Don't buy glued seams.  I had
one of those.  The bottom fell out one day on the way to the beach.
Nothing like zipping along in a bottomless donut with a 7.5 hp motor.

Second, motors are nice but a pain to deal with.  We just row most of the
time now.  The motor is in a storage shed in the backyard.

Third, if I do go back to a motor, weight will be the primary
consideration.  Sure, it's fun to plane in our inflatable with the 7.5 hp
but having to mount and dismount the 80 pound motor with a halyard is a
pain.  I can get to the beach just as well with a 2.5 lightweight motor.
Think about it.  You sailed to the anchorage at 6 knots.  Why do you need
to do 20 knots to get to the beach?
-- 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Edd

In 2014 I saw an 8 ft Pastimo dingy at the chandlery leaning against the wall.  
Looked great and price was right so I bought it.  Folds up deflated like you 
describe and is great for all those reasons.  We run a 2.5 Tohatsu on it and 
that works well.  If you look at this link was I think P220 or P240

Big in a store is much different than big when you are sitting in it.  Is 
essentially a 2 person dingy.  Is in fact about 7.5 feet but with the tubes 
extending past the transom is in fact smaller.  Think a bit about the size you 
need when in it before you buy.  If doing this again I would have purchased one 
2 ft longer with an inflatable keel.

Mike

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: June 12, 2020 12:35 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

First, make sure whatever inflatable you buy has thermowelded seams.  I think 
all of them should be that way now.  Don't buy glued seams.  I had one of 
those.  The bottom fell out one day on the way to the beach.  Nothing like 
zipping along in a bottomless donut with a 7.5 hp motor.

Second, motors are nice but a pain to deal with.  We just row most of the time 
now.  The motor is in a storage shed in the backyard.

Third, if I do go back to a motor, weight will be the primary consideration.  
Sure, it's fun to plane in our inflatable with the 7.5 hp but having to mount 
and dismount the 80 pound motor with a halyard is a pain.  I can get to the 
beach just as well with a 2.5 lightweight motor.  Think about it.  You sailed 
to the anchorage at 6 knots.  Why do you need to do 20 knots to get to the 
beach?
--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I do well towing my hard bottom Caribe inflatable and a Honda 2.3 hp motor.
The Caribe also has oars that separate and stow easily under it’s seat. The
little Honda weighs about 30 pounds so I can handle it with ease. It is air
cooled and very easy on fuel. Don’t think I would want to deflate and
inflate every time and really tethered close off the stern It is no Big
problem when cruising. Caribe makes really good hypalon inflatables that
last well. Mine is now about 10 years old, kept outdoors and inflated all
year long. Very safe inflatable can easily carry 4 adults and put along
nicely.

On Fri, Jun 12, 2020 at 12:00 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> So I’m looking to add a dinghy and motor to the Enterprise to take
> advantage of some of the fantastic anchorages in the area (and yes, the
> dinghy will be named “Galileo”). But II have some limitations — I don’t
> want to install davits on my stern and I have no place at my club to store
> the dinghy when not being used.
>
> Question 1: Does anyone have experience with these roll-up inflatables?
> Any recommendations? They appear to be around 50 pounds and fairly easy to
> inflate and repack. I see prices ranging from $300 to $1,000. They look to
> be very workable and I can stow them in the v-berth when not in use.
>
> Questions 2: When it comes to a motor, I’d like to avoid a gas engine. I
> hear nothing but problems keeping those things running well and I’m no
> expert mechanic like Josh. I’m not sure I’d want to shell out the big bucks
> for a Torqueedo, but I’d like to know if anyone on the list has experience
> with other electrics or propane outboards. I want lightweight and I don’t
> need speed — just something t get me to a beach.
>
> Thanks all!
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Oops.  Forgot the link

https://www.plastimo.com/en/mooring-tenders/tenders/annexes-raid-ii-9197.html

From: Hoyt, Mike
Sent: June 12, 2020 12:47 PM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Subject: RE: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

Hi Edd

In 2014 I saw an 8 ft Pastimo dingy at the chandlery leaning against the wall.  
Looked great and price was right so I bought it.  Folds up deflated like you 
describe and is great for all those reasons.  We run a 2.5 Tohatsu on it and 
that works well.  If you look at this link was I think P220 or P240

Big in a store is much different than big when you are sitting in it.  Is 
essentially a 2 person dingy.  Is in fact about 7.5 feet but with the tubes 
extending past the transom is in fact smaller.  Think a bit about the size you 
need when in it before you buy.  If doing this again I would have purchased one 
2 ft longer with an inflatable keel.

Mike

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: June 12, 2020 12:35 PM
To: CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

First, make sure whatever inflatable you buy has thermowelded seams.  I think 
all of them should be that way now.  Don't buy glued seams.  I had one of 
those.  The bottom fell out one day on the way to the beach.  Nothing like 
zipping along in a bottomless donut with a 7.5 hp motor.

Second, motors are nice but a pain to deal with.  We just row most of the time 
now.  The motor is in a storage shed in the backyard.

Third, if I do go back to a motor, weight will be the primary consideration.  
Sure, it's fun to plane in our inflatable with the 7.5 hp but having to mount 
and dismount the 80 pound motor with a halyard is a pain.  I can get to the 
beach just as well with a 2.5 lightweight motor.  Think about it.  You sailed 
to the anchorage at 6 knots.  Why do you need to do 20 knots to get to the 
beach?
--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 173, Issue 62

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Edd

We used a Zoom by Zodiac 260 Aero Air Floor Inflatable Boat (8-Feet 6-Inch x 
5-Feet) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JRQT10/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tau_bm64Eb6H2HAHW 
On our prior 35 MK1 w a 2hp Honda.  No problems.  https://flic.kr/p/6Lk1KG

That said, I love my Kato davits and having a RIB.  But, we don’t race...cruise 
only.

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660


> On Jun 12, 2020, at 8:20 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2020 10:59:24 -0400
> From: Edd Schillay 
> To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> Subject: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Listers,
> 
> So I?m looking to add a dinghy and motor to the Enterprise to take advantage 
> of some of the fantastic anchorages in the area (and yes, the dinghy will be 
> named ?Galileo?). But II have some limitations ? I don?t want to install 
> davits on my stern and I have no place at my club to store the dinghy when 
> not being used. 
> 
> Question 1: Does anyone have experience with these roll-up inflatables? Any 
> recommendations? They appear to be around 50 pounds and fairly easy to 
> inflate and repack. I see prices ranging from $300 to $1,000. They look to be 
> very workable and I can stow them in the v-berth when not in use. 
> 
> Questions 2: When it comes to a motor, I?d like to avoid a gas engine. I hear 
> nothing but problems keeping those things running well and I?m no expert 
> mechanic like Josh. I?m not sure I?d want to shell out the big bucks for a 
> Torqueedo, but I?d like to know if anyone on the list has experience with 
> other electrics or propane outboards. I want lightweight and I don?t need 
> speed ? just something t get me to a beach. 
> 
> Thanks all!  
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I have a Porta-Bote which I like, but likely will not meet your requirements 
for dinghy.  The boat folds up and stores easily between the shrouds and the 
cabin top, but the seats take up some space.  As to electric motor, I recently 
looked into buying one when I was having trouble with my 2007 Suzuki 2.5.  I 
was about to spend $1600 for a EP Carry 
(https://www.electricpaddle.com/ep-carry-dinghy-electric-outboard-motor.phtml 
) 
when the new Suzuki carburetor I ordered arrived. I had presumed I would try to 
get the Suzuki running as a backup.   It took me all of 15 minutes to install 
along with an inline fuel filter, and the motor started on the second pull and 
has run smoothly ever since.  I note this since it is so rare for a repair to 
be fast, easy and work.  The fact that it was fast is in large part because I 
spent significant time over the winter trying to clean and rebuild the 
carburetor, so I learned how to assemble and disassemble.  They are pretty 
simple devices, once you are familiar with the innards.  The rebuild project 
obviously was a failure, but made the replacement easy.  I read of people doing 
the carb cleanup 5-6 times before getting it right with all those tiny orifices 
so I think the new one was well worth the cost.

That  delays my purchase of an electric.  Were I doing it for the first time, I 
might still buy the EP Carry.  I like the fact that the battery is in a 
separate floating case, so is designed to easily be carried somewhere to charge 
it.  I also liked the long handle so it can be steered from the middle of the 
dinghy.  Have not used it, however.  I agree with Joe that if you don’t have 
access to 110V, charging could be a problem, although they sell a solar panel 
and attachment for charging the EP battery.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



> On Jun 12, 2020, at 11:19 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I love this website for cheap(ish) inflatables:
> https://www.boatstogo.com/ 
> Tons of boats to pick from there.
> We used to have a de-flatable inflatable. It was a bit of a nuisance to 
> inflate it or put it back in its bag, but it did ride around in the quarter 
> berth when we didn’t want to tow it and didn’t require a dinghy rack or space 
> to store it.
> I am not a fan of electric dinghy motors myself, but I know some that are.  
> It really depends on how fast and how far you want to go and how long you 
> stay out. Recharging a dead dinghy battery is going to take quite some time 
> compared to adding a couple quarts of gas. Considering how little fuel a 2 or 
> 3 HP dinghy engine uses, a 5 gallon can of 100 octane from the airport will 
> probably last you a whole year and there is no ethanol to go bad. I use 
> regular gas for mine, but always add SeaFoam and run the gas out EVERY NIGHT 
> when I am done using the dinghy. If you just turn off the engine you will 
> have issues.
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I
> www.dellabarba.com 
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 10:59 AM
> To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List  >
> Cc: Edd Schillay mailto:e...@schillay.com>>
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors
>  
> Listers,
>  
> So I’m looking to add a dinghy and motor to the Enterprise to take advantage 
> of some of the fantastic anchorages in the area (and yes, the dinghy will be 
> named “Galileo”). But II have some limitations — I don’t want to install 
> davits on my stern and I have no place at my club to store the dinghy when 
> not being used. 
>  
> Question 1: Does anyone have experience with these roll-up inflatables? Any 
> recommendations? They appear to be around 50 pounds and fairly easy to 
> inflate and repack. I see prices ranging from $300 to $1,000. They look to be 
> very workable and I can stow them in the v-berth when not in use. 
>  
> Questions 2: When it comes to a motor, I’d like to avoid a gas engine. I hear 
> nothing but problems keeping those things running well and I’m no expert 
> mechanic like Josh. I’m not sure I’d want to shell out the big bucks for a 
> Torqueedo, but I’d like to know if anyone on the list has experience with 
> other electrics or propane outboards. I want lightweight and I don’t need 
> speed — just something t get me to a beach. 
>  
> Thanks all!  
> 
> All the best,
>  
> Edd
>  
>  
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
>  
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 

Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

[Thomas Perison via CnC-List]

Ed - I’ve used my trusty LT-2 for many years. Deflates/inflates easily.  
Haven’t put a motor on yet but is rated for one. 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_iMVAf0lE7W9eSXB5RD7q5iBXdIHRB0v/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TEtPTw3whDq2ggGllKtkHhTs_jQllx8-/view?usp=drivesdk

Tom
Therapy
29-2
SOLOMONS, MD

Sent from my iPhone

> 
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies: rowing

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 Dennis; you said that you row your inflatable..."Second, motors are nice but a 
pain to deal with.  We just row most of the time now." 
Do you use the little plastic oars that come with it or do you have something 
more substantial? Thanks
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596; 
Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Sent: Fri, Jun 12, 2020 11:35 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

First, make sure whatever inflatable you buy has thermowelded seams.  I think 
all of them should be that way now.  Don't buy glued seams.  I had one of 
those.  The bottom fell out one day on the way to the beach.  Nothing like 
zipping along in a bottomless donut with a 7.5 hp motor.
Second, motors are nice but a pain to deal with.  We just row most of the time 
now.  The motor is in a storage shed in the backyard.
Third, if I do go back to a motor, weight will be the primary consideration.  
Sure, it's fun to plane in our inflatable with the 7.5 hp but having to mount 
and dismount the 80 pound motor with a halyard is a pain.  I can get to the 
beach just as well with a 2.5 lightweight motor.  Think about it.  You sailed 
to the anchorage at 6 knots.  Why do you need to do 20 knots to get to the 
beach?-- 
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, 
LA___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

This. Go big or go light, don’t go to the middle.
I had a 2 HP Honda for many years. It wasn’t fast, but it was trivial to pass 
it up and down. I then had a 6 HP Johnson that was too heavy to take on and off 
without gear, but also wasn’t all that fast. I got all the drag of towing a 
dinghy with an engine on and not much reward.
I now have a 15 HP Evinrude that also stays on all year but goes plenty fast. I 
can do a 30 mile round trip by dinghy in an hour, my top speed is around 18-19 
knots.
So back to the original post, get the lightest engine you can find. 2 HP is 
plenty to get a dinghy to hull speed.


Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 11:35 AM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

First, make sure whatever inflatable you buy has thermowelded seams.  I think 
all of them should be that way now.  Don't buy glued seams.  I had one of 
those.  The bottom fell out one day on the way to the beach.  Nothing like 
zipping along in a bottomless donut with a 7.5 hp motor.

Second, motors are nice but a pain to deal with.  We just row most of the time 
now.  The motor is in a storage shed in the backyard.

Third, if I do go back to a motor, weight will be the primary consideration.  
Sure, it's fun to plane in our inflatable with the 7.5 hp but having to mount 
and dismount the 80 pound motor with a halyard is a pain.  I can get to the 
beach just as well with a 2.5 lightweight motor.  Think about it.  You sailed 
to the anchorage at 6 knots.  Why do you need to do 20 knots to get to the 
beach?
--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I have an Avon 340 RIB with 15 HP. It fits in my slip, but Ed does not seem to 
have any place to put a dinghy at his club.
It is a nice boat even as a stand-alone boat, but it is whole different thing 
than rolling up a soft inflatable and putting it below.

Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight 
veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 11:53 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

I do well towing my hard bottom Caribe inflatable and a Honda 2.3 hp motor. The 
Caribe also has oars that separate and stow easily under it’s seat. The little 
Honda weighs about 30 pounds so I can handle it with ease. It is air cooled and 
very easy on fuel. Don’t think I would want to deflate and inflate every time 
and really tethered close off the stern It is no Big problem when cruising. 
Caribe makes really good hypalon inflatables that last well. Mine is now about 
10 years old, kept outdoors and inflated all year long. Very safe inflatable 
can easily carry 4 adults and put along nicely.

On Fri, Jun 12, 2020 at 12:00 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Listers,

So I’m looking to add a dinghy and motor to the Enterprise to take advantage of 
some of the fantastic anchorages in the area (and yes, the dinghy will be named 
“Galileo”). But II have some limitations — I don’t want to install davits on my 
stern and I have no place at my club to store the dinghy when not being used.

Question 1: Does anyone have experience with these roll-up inflatables? Any 
recommendations? They appear to be around 50 pounds and fairly easy to inflate 
and repack. I see prices ranging from $300 to $1,000. They look to be very 
workable and I can stow them in the v-berth when not in use.

Questions 2: When it comes to a motor, I’d like to avoid a gas engine. I hear 
nothing but problems keeping those things running well and I’m no expert 
mechanic like Josh. I’m not sure I’d want to shell out the big bucks for a 
Torqueedo, but I’d like to know if anyone on the list has experience with other 
electrics or propane outboards. I want lightweight and I don’t need speed — 
just something t get me to a beach.

Thanks all!

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's 
Log









___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
--
Sent from Gmail Mobile
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List CnC34—Anything to pay attention to?

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Owned our 82 for 21 seasons.  Absolutely love it.  Original Yanmar 3GM which is 
just the right power (do not recommend a smaller engine)  No major design or 
build issues just issues of being such a tender age :-)  Of course get a 
competent survey of hull rig and all systems.  Our main hatch cover had 
delamination of core as screws around the edge went through the balsa core, 
they leaked and core rotted.  Removed cover, installed solid glass around edges 
for screws, new balsa and glass, reinstalled.  Filled 2 screw holes in deck 
with epoxy reassembled and no more leaks :-)
Sails like a dream.  Very sensitive to trim and weight distribution.  Races 
with the best of them need a crew of 6 or 7.  Easily cruises for 4.  2 can 
easily sail her.  Is designed for light airs but can handle high winds and seas 
well.  The designer Rob Ball has one - need I say more?  Contact off list if 
need anything else.


John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Back stay tension clarification

[Bailey White via CnC-List]

Happy Friday to everyone.  I've enjoyed the discussions this week.

2000 psi on a hydraulic backstay for a large keelboat is not very much and
seems overly conservative to me, particularly with the large headsails that
many of our boats have.

We used to routinely go to 4000 psi on a 33 foot Santa Cruz ULDB routinely
when I raced in San Francisco Bay.  Bigger boats, much more.  North Sails
recommends 4300 psi for a J/35 in 14 knots true as another example.
http://www.j35-fleet7.com/training/training_tuning_NorthSails_guide.pdf

I try to not push too hard on my 1979 C&C 36 but go to 2500 to get the
headstay closer to where I would expect it in heavy air cruising.  I
suspect it would be just right at 4000 but I have not raced this boat in
anger enough to do that.

best,
Bailey White
C&C 36
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I used to sail on a 34 that had the 2 cylinder Yanmar. That thing would shake 
the entire boat. Some had Atomic 4s I think, which are much smoother, but any 
original A4 that is not FWC is living on borrowed time at this point. Actually 
ANY RWC engine from the 80s not in a fresh water lake is.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John and 
Maryann Read via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 1:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John and Maryann Read 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?

Owned our 82 for 21 seasons.  Absolutely love it.  Original Yanmar 3GM which is 
just the right power (do not recommend a smaller engine)  No major design or 
build issues just issues of being such a tender age :-)  Of course get a 
competent survey of hull rig and all systems.  Our main hatch cover had 
delamination of core as screws around the edge went through the balsa core, 
they leaked and core rotted.  Removed cover, installed solid glass around edges 
for screws, new balsa and glass, reinstalled.  Filled 2 screw holes in deck 
with epoxy reassembled and no more leaks :-)
Sails like a dream.  Very sensitive to trim and weight distribution.  Races 
with the best of them need a crew of 6 or 7.  Easily cruises for 4.  2 can 
easily sail her.  Is designed for light airs but can handle high winds and seas 
well.  The designer Rob Ball has one - need I say more?  Contact off list if 
need anything else.


John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Back stay tension clarification

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Possibly different diameter standing rigging.

On Fri, Jun 12, 2020 at 10:45 AM Bailey White via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Happy Friday to everyone.  I've enjoyed the discussions this week.
>
> 2000 psi on a hydraulic backstay for a large keelboat is not very much and
> seems overly conservative to me, particularly with the large headsails that
> many of our boats have.
>
> We used to routinely go to 4000 psi on a 33 foot Santa Cruz ULDB routinely
> when I raced in San Francisco Bay.  Bigger boats, much more.  North Sails
> recommends 4300 psi for a J/35 in 14 knots true as another example.
> http://www.j35-fleet7.com/training/training_tuning_NorthSails_guide.pdf
> 
>
> I try to not push too hard on my 1979 C&C 36 but go to 2500 to get the
> headstay closer to where I would expect it in heavy air cruising.  I
> suspect it would be just right at 4000 but I have not raced this boat in
> anger enough to do that.
>
> best,
> Bailey White
> C&C 36
> Lake Lanier, GA
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!8wG5zMtsYP-3yN4Yj3b-0L3NU7JIA_I28RwVXBknUfqOKTPNgA0dzX9mo5hkdhoJ4CQ$
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Back stay tension clarification

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

If I exceed 2000 psi on Touche's backstay, the hull flex will result in
separation of the aft 6-8 inches of the keel from the hull.  It's only
cosmetic but I will have to re-fair it at the next haul out.

  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Jun 12, 2020 at 12:45 PM Bailey White via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
> 2000 psi on a hydraulic backstay for a large keelboat is not very much and
> seems overly conservative to me, particularly with the large headsails that
> many of our boats have.
>
> We used to routinely go to 4000 psi on a 33 foot Santa Cruz ULDB routinely
> when I raced in San Francisco Bay.  Bigger boats, much more.  North Sails
> recommends 4300 psi for a J/35 in 14 knots true as another example.
> http://www.j35-fleet7.com/training/training_tuning_NorthSails_guide.pdf
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hi Edd,
Here's what I did:
I went with a Portabote because it can easily be driven with a torqeedo, and in 
fact it is our preferred motor as opposed to the 6 hp 4 stroke that came with 
the boat.  The 6 hp motor will drive the boat at 13 kts with both me and my 
wife it it, but as another person mentioned, there's not much need for that 
speed.  It can also be rowed relatively easily, and will carry 3, and even 4 
people in a pinch.  The portabote can be folded and put on the deck of the 
boat.  That said, having it laying on the deck is OK, but not really ideal.  
Everything is a tradeoff.  

In the end, we put Garhauer dinghy davits on Astralis at a cost of about 
$1,800, because we also wanted a place to mount 380 watts of solar power.  I 
can understand that for a racer like you, that idea may be an anathema to you, 
but for us, we can bring the Portabote with us all the time without dragging it 
behind us and we can cruise without worrying about electricity.  

Here's a photo of us under sail with the dinghy on the davits:  Astralis Under 
Sail with Dinghy.jpg

| 
| 
| 
|  |  |

 |

 |
| 
|  | 
Astralis Under Sail with Dinghy.jpg

Shared with Dropbox
 |

 |

 |




Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
 

On Friday, June 12, 2020, 11:00:13 AM EDT, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 Listers,
So I’m looking to add a dinghy and motor to the Enterprise to take advantage of 
some of the fantastic anchorages in the area (and yes, the dinghy will be named 
“Galileo”). But II have some limitations — I don’t want to install davits on my 
stern and I have no place at my club to store the dinghy when not being used. 
Question 1: Does anyone have experience with these roll-up inflatables? Any 
recommendations? They appear to be around 50 pounds and fairly easy to inflate 
and repack. I see prices ranging from $300 to $1,000. They look to be very 
workable and I can stow them in the v-berth when not in use. 
Questions 2: When it comes to a motor, I’d like to avoid a gas engine. I hear 
nothing but problems keeping those things running well and I’m no expert 
mechanic like Josh. I’m not sure I’d want to shell out the big bucks for a 
Torqueedo, but I’d like to know if anyone on the list has experience with other 
electrics or propane outboards. I want lightweight and I don’t need speed — 
just something t get me to a beach. 
Thanks all!  

All the best,
Edd

Edd M. SchillayCaptain of the Starship EnterpriseC&C 37+ | Sail No: 
NCC-1701-BVenice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log





 



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

  ___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

We were talking about boat speeds recently.  I had our 34 banging 12.9 knots
crossing Lake Erie wing and wing (or wing-on-wing as some say).  We stayed
ahead of a Beneteau 42 First the entire way.  I did notice something unusual
going downwind in about 20 knots of breeze with the chute up -- the steering
wheel sort of locked in place.  It was like I engaged the steering brake.
Very strange.  As with a lot C&Cs of similar vintage, the boat becomes a bit
unstable in breezy/wavy conditions with the chute up.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of John and Maryann
Read via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 1:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John and Maryann Read 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?

Owned our 82 for 21 seasons.  Absolutely love it.  Original Yanmar 3GM which
is just the right power (do not recommend a smaller engine)  No major design
or build issues just issues of being such a tender age :-)  Of course get a
competent survey of hull rig and all systems.  Our main hatch cover had
delamination of core as screws around the edge went through the balsa core,
they leaked and core rotted.  Removed cover, installed solid glass around
edges for screws, new balsa and glass, reinstalled.  Filled 2 screw holes in
deck with epoxy reassembled and no more leaks :-) Sails like a dream.  Very
sensitive to trim and weight distribution.  Races with the best of them need
a crew of 6 or 7.  Easily cruises for 4.  2 can easily sail her.  Is
designed for light airs but can handle high winds and seas well.  The
designer Rob Ball has one - need I say more?  Contact off list if need
anything else.


John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Back stay tension clarification

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I think this is getting confusing, some numbers in this discussion are pounds 
per square inch hydraulic pressure, rather than say, 2,000 pounds of hanging  
load.  I would certainly not have wanted to put 4,000# of actual load on my 
39’s backstay.  Imagine a 2’ X 2’ X 7’ concrete pier block hanging on that.

 

Bill Coleman

Erie PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bailey White 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 1:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bailey White
Subject: Re: Stus-List Back stay tension clarification

 

Happy Friday to everyone.  I've enjoyed the discussions this week.

 

2000 psi on a hydraulic backstay for a large keelboat is not very much and 
seems overly conservative to me, particularly with the large headsails that 
many of our boats have.  

 

We used to routinely go to 4000 psi on a 33 foot Santa Cruz ULDB routinely when 
I raced in San Francisco Bay.  Bigger boats, much more.  North Sails recommends 
4300 psi for a J/35 in 14 knots true as another example.  
http://www.j35-fleet7.com/training/training_tuning_NorthSails_guide.pdf

 

I try to not push too hard on my 1979 C&C 36 but go to 2500 to get the headstay 
closer to where I would expect it in heavy air cruising.  I suspect it would be 
just right at 4000 but I have not raced this boat in anger enough to do that.

 

best,

Bailey White 

C&C 36

Lake Lanier, GA

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hi Edd,

We have an inflatable with an aluminium floor.  Ours is a SeaBright 290 -
9' 6" long.  http://www.seabrightmarine.ca/sd290.html  We usually use our
spinnaker pole and topping lift as a crane to lift our inflatable out of
the water to store it on the foredeck.  I hang a block & tackle from the
pole to the dinghy to lift it, the same block and tackle we use for man
overboard recovery, and also use as a preventer.  We put the dinghy on the
foredeck if we think it will be too rough to tow it, or if we will be
sailing for hours.  We put it in the vee berth if we aren't going to use it
for some time, like a few days or more.

This is a link to our boat with the dinghy on the foredeck:
https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/salazar.html

We use a gas powered outboard, but we use gas with NO ETHANOL (easy to get
in Atlantic Canada, just buy premium gas), and I ALWAYS add fuel stabiliser
to the fuel (I do that for all my small engines and they give me no
trouble).  We usually shut the fuel off and run the engine till it quits if
we won't be using it for a few days or more.  We often don't bother with
the outboard and just row, our inflatable rows just fine with two people
and some groceries on board.

Our inflatable was purchased about 11 years ago from a local vendor who has
them made to his specification in China, from high quality european
materials. http://www.seabrightmarine.ca/index.html (prices will look a bit
high as they are in C$).

There are 2 main types of fabric that most inflatable boats out there are
made of. The two materials are PVC, and Hypalon.

Here's a breakdown of the difference between the two materials:


*-- PVC  Vs.
Hypalon
 Fabric - What is the
difference? *

There are 2 main types of fabric that 99% of the inflatable boats on the
planet are made of. They are  PVC, and Hypalon. At SeaBright Marine we
sell both types of boats so you can be sure that we have the boat that is
right for you. As is the case with most things there are Pros and Cons to
both 

PVC
*Pro*--significantly less expensive then Hypalon
*Con*-- won't last as long in the direct sunlight as Hypalon before it
starts to break down (if left unprotected).
*Con*-- does not tolerate gasoline spills as well as Hypalon.
Hypalon
*Pro*-- will last significantly longer than PVC when exposed to prolonged
periods of direct sunlight.
*Pro*-- will tolerate fuel spills better than PVC
*Con*—significantly more expensive then PVC

There is no doubt that PVC fabric won’t last as long as Hypalon fabric if
the boat will be subjected to prolonged periods of direct sunlight and no
measures have been taken to protect the PVC fabric from the sun (i.e. boat
cover or UV spray). After a number of years in direct sunlight the PVC
fabric will become sticky. After that it will become crusty and
discoloured. Finally it will crack and begin to leak.

Here are some things to consider

*1)* This is not a problem unless your boat is going to be outside and
unprotected all summer, every year. If you only use the boat occasionally
such as on weekends or while on vacation then it isn't a factor at all.
Even if you leave your boat outside all the time the issue can be solved by
putting a sun/rain cover on your boat when it isn't in use or by applying a
UV protective spray periodically (such as AeroSpace 303 Protectant). Any
inflatable boat dealer (including us) can sell you a cover that is designed
to fit your boat. If you are willing to take the necessary steps required
to protect your PVC boat then you can take advantage of the significantly
more attractive pricing points that we are able to offer with our PVC boats.

*2)* Keep in mind that the 2 most well known inflatable boats sold in
Canada (for legal reasons we cannot name them here) are PVC boats. Both of
these dealers also offer Hypalon boats but the vast majority of the boats
that they sell are PVC.

*3)* Hypalon inflatable boats are significantly more expensive. On average
a Hypalon inflatable boat will cost you 50 to 75 percent more than a PVC
inflatable boat that is comparable in size and equipment options. However,
if the intended use for your boat will involve long periods of exposure to
sunshine and if you are not inclined to cover or protect the boat when it
isn’t in use then perhaps the added expense associated with a Hypalon boat
will make practical sense for you.

• Please note that as of 2008 all of our PVC boats are being manufactured
with genuine Mehler-Valmex® PVC from Germany. Mehler-Valmex® PVC is widely
regarded in the industry as being the premium quality PVC fabric available
in the marketplace today, and is the PVC fabric of choice for most high
quality inflatable boat companies.

• Please note that as of 2008 all of our Hypalon boats are being
manufactured with genuine Achille

Re: Stus-List Back stay tension clarification

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

I always assumed the reading is psi.  While I am aware that some skippers don’t 
mind bending their boat in half, I tend to max out at 2500, which is where I 
start becoming uncomfortable.

 

There was a local Erie sailor years ago that couldn’t just sail the boats he 
owned – he loved to mess with them.  One of his boats was a Cal 40, which he 
turned into a Cal 39.  In addition to cutting off the back of the boat, he 
installed aluminum ribs so he could crank up the backstay without breaking the 
boat.  Personally, I’d rather lose a race than break my boat.

 

Bill, I don’t know if you remember Masker II (later Buttercup), but Bob Way was 
legendary.  Ah, the good old days.

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 3:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Back stay tension clarification

 

I think this is getting confusing, some numbers in this discussion are pounds 
per square inch hydraulic pressure, rather than say, 2,000 pounds of hanging  
load.  I would certainly not have wanted to put 4,000# of actual load on my 
39’s backstay.  Imagine a 2’ X 2’ X 7’ concrete pier block hanging on that.

 

Bill Coleman

Erie PA

 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies: rowing

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

We use the plastic and aluminium oars that come with our dinghy.  They bolt
onto the oarlocks so don't fall off if you really come onto them.  The
harder the dinghy is pumped up, the easier it is to row.

Ken H.

On Fri, 12 Jun 2020 at 13:03, Richard Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis; you said that you row your inflatable..."Second, motors are nice
> but a pain to deal with.  We just row most of the time now."
> Do you use the little plastic oars that come with it or do you have
> something more substantial? Thanks
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> To: CnClist 
> Cc: Dennis C. 
> Sent: Fri, Jun 12, 2020 11:35 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors
>
> First, make sure whatever inflatable you buy has thermowelded seams.  I
> think all of them should be that way now.  Don't buy glued seams.  I had
> one of those.  The bottom fell out one day on the way to the beach.
> Nothing like zipping along in a bottomless donut with a 7.5 hp motor.
>
> Second, motors are nice but a pain to deal with.  We just row most of the
> time now.  The motor is in a storage shed in the backyard.
>
> Third, if I do go back to a motor, weight will be the primary
> consideration.  Sure, it's fun to plane in our inflatable with the 7.5 hp
> but having to mount and dismount the 80 pound motor with a halyard is a
> pain.  I can get to the beach just as well with a 2.5 lightweight motor.
> Think about it.  You sailed to the anchorage at 6 knots.  Why do you need
> to do 20 knots to get to the beach?
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Back stay tension clarification

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

You remind me of a wonderful boat I used to run, Matt. She was a 52’ hot molded 
mahogany ketch called Stormy. A wonderful beautiful fast yacht, but not 
terribly stiff. We used to say that the last 1000 pounds of backstay was just 
the stern getting closer to the masthead!
Andy
Masquerade

Andrew Burton
26 Beacon Hill
Newport, RI 
USA02840

www.burtonsailing.com
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Jun 12, 2020, at 17:05, Matt Wolford via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I always assumed the reading is psi.  While I am aware that some skippers 
> don’t mind bending their boat in half, I tend to max out at 2500, which is 
> where I start becoming uncomfortable.
>  
> There was a local Erie sailor years ago that couldn’t just sail the boats he 
> owned – he loved to mess with them.  One of his boats was a Cal 40, which he 
> turned into a Cal 39.  In addition to cutting off the back of the boat, he 
> installed aluminum ribs so he could crank up the backstay without breaking 
> the boat.  Personally, I’d rather lose a race than break my boat.
>  
> Bill, I don’t know if you remember Masker II (later Buttercup), but Bob Way 
> was legendary.  Ah, the good old days.
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 3:55 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Bill Coleman 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Back stay tension clarification
>  
> I think this is getting confusing, some numbers in this discussion are pounds 
> per square inch hydraulic pressure, rather than say, 2,000 pounds of hanging  
> load.  I would certainly not have wanted to put 4,000# of actual load on my 
> 39’s backstay.  Imagine a 2’ X 2’ X 7’ concrete pier block hanging on that.
>  
> Bill Coleman
> Erie PA
>  
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?

[Dave via CnC-List]

Surprised at the comment on the yanmar 2gm, I have one in my 33-2 and no such 
complaint.  Perhaps I just don’t know any better.
The 34 was on my shopping list and I looked at several.   Iirc, the balsa core 
extends into or close to the bilge so a damp core in this area is worth 
checking for.Good luck!
Dave


Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 12, 2020, at 2:11 PM, Della Barba, Joe  wrote:
> 
> I used to sail on a 34 that had the 2 cylinder Yanmar. That thing would shake 
> the entire boat. Some had Atomic 4s I think, which are much smoother, but any 
> original A4 that is not FWC is living on borrowed time at this point. 
> Actually ANY RWC engine from the 80s not in a fresh water lake is.
> 
> Joe
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John and 
> Maryann Read via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 1:41 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: John and Maryann Read 
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?
> 
> Owned our 82 for 21 seasons.  Absolutely love it.  Original Yanmar 3GM which 
> is just the right power (do not recommend a smaller engine)  No major design 
> or build issues just issues of being such a tender age :-)  Of course get a 
> competent survey of hull rig and all systems.  Our main hatch cover had 
> delamination of core as screws around the edge went through the balsa core, 
> they leaked and core rotted.  Removed cover, installed solid glass around 
> edges for screws, new balsa and glass, reinstalled.  Filled 2 screw holes in 
> deck with epoxy reassembled and no more leaks :-)
> Sails like a dream.  Very sensitive to trim and weight distribution.  Races 
> with the best of them need a crew of 6 or 7.  Easily cruises for 4.  2 can 
> easily sail her.  Is designed for light airs but can handle high winds and 
> seas well.  The designer Rob Ball has one - need I say more?  Contact off 
> list if need anything else.
> 
> 
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C&C 34
> Noank, CT
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List CnC34—Anything to pay attention to?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

It’s a tender boat by all accounts. If you are sailing in winds usually in
the teens apparent to weather it really does well with a keel shoe. The
interior seems very tight compared to the 35mkii which was i believe was
the model it was built to replace

On Fri, Jun 12, 2020 at 2:36 PM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Owned our 82 for 21 seasons.  Absolutely love it.  Original Yanmar 3GM
> which is just the right power (do not recommend a smaller engine)  No major
> design or build issues just issues of being such a tender age :-)  Of
> course get a competent survey of hull rig and all systems.  Our main hatch
> cover had delamination of core as screws around the edge went through the
> balsa core, they leaked and core rotted.  Removed cover, installed solid
> glass around edges for screws, new balsa and glass, reinstalled.  Filled 2
> screw holes in deck with epoxy reassembled and no more leaks :-)
> Sails like a dream.  Very sensitive to trim and weight distribution.
> Races with the best of them need a crew of 6 or 7.  Easily cruises for 4.
> 2 can easily sail her.  Is designed for light airs but can handle high
> winds and seas well.  The designer Rob Ball has one - need I say more?
> Contact off list if need anything else.
>
>
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C&C 34
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Wing on is difficult at the best of times.  Strong Steady wind and smooth
seas seem never the case together. Rolling seas demand close attention

On Fri, Jun 12, 2020 at 4:07 PM Matt Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We were talking about boat speeds recently.  I had our 34 banging 12.9
> knots
> crossing Lake Erie wing and wing (or wing-on-wing as some say).  We stayed
> ahead of a Beneteau 42 First the entire way.  I did notice something
> unusual
> going downwind in about 20 knots of breeze with the chute up -- the
> steering
> wheel sort of locked in place.  It was like I engaged the steering brake.
> Very strange.  As with a lot C&Cs of similar vintage, the boat becomes a
> bit
> unstable in breezy/wavy conditions with the chute up.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of John and
> Maryann
> Read via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 1:41 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: John and Maryann Read 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?
>
> Owned our 82 for 21 seasons.  Absolutely love it.  Original Yanmar 3GM
> which
> is just the right power (do not recommend a smaller engine)  No major
> design
> or build issues just issues of being such a tender age :-)  Of course get a
> competent survey of hull rig and all systems.  Our main hatch cover had
> delamination of core as screws around the edge went through the balsa core,
> they leaked and core rotted.  Removed cover, installed solid glass around
> edges for screws, new balsa and glass, reinstalled.  Filled 2 screw holes
> in
> deck with epoxy reassembled and no more leaks :-) Sails like a dream.  Very
> sensitive to trim and weight distribution.  Races with the best of them
> need
> a crew of 6 or 7.  Easily cruises for 4.  2 can easily sail her.  Is
> designed for light airs but can handle high winds and seas well.  The
> designer Rob Ball has one - need I say more?  Contact off list if need
> anything else.
>
>
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C&C 34
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies: rowing

[CHRIS PRICE via CnC-List]

 
 
  
   Just finished hauling the inflatable out of the v berth, punped it up with a Ryobi inflator, mounted the engine i preparation to go crabbing in the AM   4 hp four stroke Yamaha. Wife and I will put out 30 traps wherever we sail to. 
   And no, Dennis, I”m not whining about it.!
   
   
  
  
   chris price in the Mafitht River
  
  
   35 mk I Pradel
  
  
   
  
  
   
  
  
   
  
  
   On June 12, 2020 at 5:23 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List  wrote: 

   
   
We use the plastic and aluminium oars that come with our dinghy.  They bolt onto the oarlocks so don't fall off if you really come onto them.  The harder the dinghy is pumped up, the easier it is to row.

 


 Ken H.

   
   
   

 On Fri, 12 Jun 2020 at 13:03, Richard Bush via CnC-List < 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 
 


 
  
   Dennis; you said that you row your inflatable..." 
   Second, motors are nice but a pain to deal with.  We just row most of the time now."  
  
  
   Do you use the little plastic oars that come with it or do you have something more substantial? Thanks 
   
  
  
   
  
  
   
Richard 

   
   
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;  
   
   
Richard N. Bush Law Offices  
   
   
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine  
   
   
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462  
   
   
502-584-7255
   
  
  
   
  
  
   -Original Message- 
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List < 
   cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
To: CnClist < 
   cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Dennis C. < 
   capt...@gmail.com> 
Sent: Fri, Jun 12, 2020 11:35 am 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors 

   
   

 
  First, make sure whatever inflatable you buy has thermowelded seams.  I think all of them should be that way now.  Don't buy glued seams.  I had one of those.  The bottom fell out one day on the way to the beach.  Nothing like zipping along in a bottomless donut with a 7.5 hp motor.
  
   
  
  
   Second, motors are nice but a pain to deal with.  We just row most of the time now.  The motor is in a storage shed in the backyard.
  
  
   
  
  
   Third, if I do go back to a motor, weight will be the primary consideration.  Sure, it's fun to plane in our inflatable with the 7.5 hp but having to mount and dismount the 80 pound motor with a halyard is a pain.  I can get to the beach just as well with a 2.5 lightweight motor.  Think about it.  You sailed to the anchorage at 6 knots.  Why do you need to do 20 knots to get to the beach?
  
 -- 
 
 
  
   Dennis C.
   
Touche' 35-1 #83
   
   
Mandeville, LA
   
  
 

   ___ 

   Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --  
   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

   
  
 ___ 
  
  Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --    
 https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
  
 

   ___ 

   Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

   
  
  
    
   
 


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Ken

This list is gold.

I have just once again learned something. Supreme means no ethanol.  I did not 
know this.  For my small engines I will now follow that rule.  Thanks! This is 
a big help

Mike

Persistence
Halifax, NS
www.Hoytsailing.com

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Ken Heaton via 
CnC-List
Sent: June 12, 2020 5:20 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ken Heaton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

Hi Edd,

We have an inflatable with an aluminium floor.  Ours is a SeaBright 290 - 9' 6" 
long.  http://www.seabrightmarine.ca/sd290.html  We usually use our spinnaker 
pole and topping lift as a crane to lift our inflatable out of the water to 
store it on the foredeck.  I hang a block & tackle from the pole to the dinghy 
to lift it, the same block and tackle we use for man overboard recovery, and 
also use as a preventer.  We put the dinghy on the foredeck if we think it will 
be too rough to tow it, or if we will be sailing for hours.  We put it in the 
vee berth if we aren't going to use it for some time, like a few days or more.

This is a link to our boat with the dinghy on the foredeck: 
https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/salazar.html

We use a gas powered outboard, but we use gas with NO ETHANOL (easy to get in 
Atlantic Canada, just buy premium gas), and I ALWAYS add fuel stabiliser to the 
fuel (I do that for all my small engines and they give me no trouble).  We 
usually shut the fuel off and run the engine till it quits if we won't be using 
it for a few days or more.  We often don't bother with the outboard and just 
row, our inflatable rows just fine with two people and some groceries on board.

Our inflatable was purchased about 11 years ago from a local vendor who has 
them made to his specification in China, from high quality european materials. 
http://www.seabrightmarine.ca/index.html (prices will look a bit high as they 
are in C$).

There are 2 main types of fabric that most inflatable boats out there are made 
of. The two materials are PVC, and Hypalon.

Here's a breakdown of the difference between the two materials:

-- PVC Vs. 
 
Hypalon Fabric - What is the 
difference?

There are 2 main types of fabric that 99% of the inflatable boats on the planet 
are made of. They are  PVC, and Hypalon. At SeaBright Marine we sell both 
types of boats so you can be sure that we have the boat that is right for you. 
As is the case with most things there are Pros and Cons to both 

PVC
Pro--significantly less expensive then Hypalon
Con-- won't last as long in the direct sunlight as Hypalon before it starts to 
break down (if left unprotected).
Con-- does not tolerate gasoline spills as well as Hypalon.
Hypalon
Pro-- will last significantly longer than PVC when exposed to prolonged periods 
of direct sunlight.
Pro-- will tolerate fuel spills better than PVC
Con—significantly more expensive then PVC

There is no doubt that PVC fabric won’t last as long as Hypalon fabric if the 
boat will be subjected to prolonged periods of direct sunlight and no measures 
have been taken to protect the PVC fabric from the sun (i.e. boat cover or UV 
spray). After a number of years in direct sunlight the PVC fabric will become 
sticky. After that it will become crusty and discoloured. Finally it will crack 
and begin to leak.

Here are some things to consider

1) This is not a problem unless your boat is going to be outside and 
unprotected all summer, every year. If you only use the boat occasionally such 
as on weekends or while on vacation then it isn't a factor at all. Even if you 
leave your boat outside all the time the issue can be solved by putting a 
sun/rain cover on your boat when it isn't in use or by applying a UV protective 
spray periodically (such as AeroSpace 303 Protectant). Any inflatable boat 
dealer (including us) can sell you a cover that is designed to fit your boat. 
If you are willing to take the necessary steps required to protect your PVC 
boat then you can take advantage of the significantly more attractive pricing 
points that we are able to offer with our PVC boats.

2) Keep in mind that the 2 most well known inflatable boats sold in Canada (for 
legal reasons we cannot name them here) are PVC boats. Both of these dealers 
also offer Hypalon boats but the vast majority of the boats that they sell are 
PVC.

3) Hypalon inflatable boats are significantly more expensive. On average a 
Hypalon inflatable boat will cost you 50 to 75 percent more than a PVC 
inflatable boat that is comparable in size and equipment options. However, if 
the intended use for your boat will involve long periods of exposure to 
sunshine and if you are not inclined to cover or protect the boat when it isn’t 
in use then perhaps the added expense associated with a Hypalon boat will make 
practica

Re: Stus-List CnC34—Anything to pay attention to?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Dwight

I believe you are right.  When our family bought the C&C 36 in 1981 I was told 
the 36 replaced the 37, the 34 replaced the 35 and I think the 29 replaced the 
30?

That was years ago and the smart guy I always relied on to answer these 
questions is long gone.

Thank god we have Rob Ball …

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Not a C&C
Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of dwight veinot via 
CnC-List
Sent: June 12, 2020 7:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC34—Anything to pay attention to?

It’s a tender boat by all accounts. If you are sailing in winds usually in the 
teens apparent to weather it really does well with a keel shoe. The interior 
seems very tight compared to the 35mkii which was i believe was the model it 
was built to replace

On Fri, Jun 12, 2020 at 2:36 PM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Owned our 82 for 21 seasons.  Absolutely love it.  Original Yanmar 3GM which is 
just the right power (do not recommend a smaller engine)  No major design or 
build issues just issues of being such a tender age :-)  Of course get a 
competent survey of hull rig and all systems.  Our main hatch cover had 
delamination of core as screws around the edge went through the balsa core, 
they leaked and core rotted.  Removed cover, installed solid glass around edges 
for screws, new balsa and glass, reinstalled.  Filled 2 screw holes in deck 
with epoxy reassembled and no more leaks :-)
Sails like a dream.  Very sensitive to trim and weight distribution.  Races 
with the best of them need a crew of 6 or 7.  Easily cruises for 4.  2 can 
easily sail her.  Is designed for light airs but can handle high winds and seas 
well.  The designer Rob Ball has one - need I say more?  Contact off list if 
need anything else.


John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
--
Sent from Gmail Mobile
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Not necessarily.

>From what i know, only Shell and Esso guarantee no ethanol added to their 
>highest grade gasoline. I also think that Costco does not have ethanol in the 
>premium gas but this may depend heaviily on specific location. Others (e.g. 
>Ultramar, PetroCanada, Husky), either don't make this claim or actually 
>achieve the high-octane level by adding ethanol (e.g. Sunoco 94 octane).


 Original message 
From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
Date: 2020-06-12 21:12 (GMT-05:00)
To: "'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'" 
Cc: "Hoyt, Mike" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

Ken

This list is gold.

I have just once again learned something. Supreme means no ethanol.  I did not 
know this.  For my small engines I will now follow that rule.  Thanks! This is 
a big help

Mike

Persistence
Halifax, NS
www.Hoytsailing.com

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Ken Heaton via 
CnC-List
Sent: June 12, 2020 5:20 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ken Heaton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

Hi Edd,

We have an inflatable with an aluminium floor.  Ours is a SeaBright 290 - 9' 6" 
long.  http://www.seabrightmarine.ca/sd290.html  We usually use our spinnaker 
pole and topping lift as a crane to lift our inflatable out of the water to 
store it on the foredeck.  I hang a block & tackle from the pole to the dinghy 
to lift it, the same block and tackle we use for man overboard recovery, and 
also use as a preventer.  We put the dinghy on the foredeck if we think it will 
be too rough to tow it, or if we will be sailing for hours.  We put it in the 
vee berth if we aren't going to use it for some time, like a few days or more.

This is a link to our boat with the dinghy on the foredeck: 
https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/salazar.html

We use a gas powered outboard, but we use gas with NO ETHANOL (easy to get in 
Atlantic Canada, just buy premium gas), and I ALWAYS add fuel stabiliser to the 
fuel (I do that for all my small engines and they give me no trouble).  We 
usually shut the fuel off and run the engine till it quits if we won't be using 
it for a few days or more.  We often don't bother with the outboard and just 
row, our inflatable rows just fine with two people and some groceries on board.

Our inflatable was purchased about 11 years ago from a local vendor who has 
them made to his specification in China, from high quality european materials. 
http://www.seabrightmarine.ca/index.html (prices will look a bit high as they 
are in C$).

There are 2 main types of fabric that most inflatable boats out there are made 
of. The two materials are PVC, and Hypalon.

Here's a breakdown of the difference between the two materials:

-- PVC Vs. 
 
Hypalon Fabric - What is the 
difference?

There are 2 main types of fabric that 99% of the inflatable boats on the planet 
are made of. They are  PVC, and Hypalon. At SeaBright Marine we sell both 
types of boats so you can be sure that we have the boat that is right for you. 
As is the case with most things there are Pros and Cons to both 

PVC
Pro--significantly less expensive then Hypalon
Con-- won't last as long in the direct sunlight as Hypalon before it starts to 
break down (if left unprotected).
Con-- does not tolerate gasoline spills as well as Hypalon.
Hypalon
Pro-- will last significantly longer than PVC when exposed to prolonged periods 
of direct sunlight.
Pro-- will tolerate fuel spills better than PVC
Con—significantly more expensive then PVC

There is no doubt that PVC fabric won’t last as long as Hypalon fabric if the 
boat will be subjected to prolonged periods of direct sunlight and no measures 
have been taken to protect the PVC fabric from the sun (i.e. boat cover or UV 
spray). After a number of years in direct sunlight the PVC fabric will become 
sticky. After that it will become crusty and discoloured. Finally it will crack 
and begin to leak.

Here are some things to consider

1) This is not a problem unless your boat is going to be outside and 
unprotected all summer, every year. If you only use the boat occasionally such 
as on weekends or while on vacation then it isn't a factor at all. Even if you 
leave your boat outside all the time the issue can be solved by putting a 
sun/rain cover on your boat when it isn't in use or by applying a UV protective 
spray periodically (such as AeroSpace 303 Protectant). Any inflatable boat 
dealer (including us) can sell you a cover that is designed to fit your boat. 
If you are willing to take the necessary steps required to protect your PVC 
boat then you can take advantage of the significantly more attractive pricing 
points that we are able to offer with our PVC boats.

2) Keep in mind that the 2 most well known inflatable boats sold in Canada (for 
legal reasons we

Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

[David Risch via CnC-List]

And for you USAers.  Find a local airport for AV gas.  I pay 6 bucks a gallon.  
Well worth it.

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Marek Dziedzic via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 10:03:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

Not necessarily.

>From what i know, only Shell and Esso guarantee no ethanol added to their 
>highest grade gasoline. I also think that Costco does not have ethanol in the 
>premium gas but this may depend heaviily on specific location. Others (e.g. 
>Ultramar, PetroCanada, Husky), either don't make this claim or actually 
>achieve the high-octane level by adding ethanol (e.g. Sunoco 94 octane).


 Original message 
From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
Date: 2020-06-12 21:12 (GMT-05:00)
To: "'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'" 
Cc: "Hoyt, Mike" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors


Ken



This list is gold.



I have just once again learned something. Supreme means no ethanol.  I did not 
know this.  For my small engines I will now follow that rule.  Thanks! This is 
a big help



Mike



Persistence

Halifax, NS

www.Hoytsailing.com



From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Ken Heaton via 
CnC-List
Sent: June 12, 2020 5:20 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ken Heaton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors



Hi Edd,



We have an inflatable with an aluminium floor.  Ours is a SeaBright 290 - 9' 6" 
long.  http://www.seabrightmarine.ca/sd290.html  We usually use our spinnaker 
pole and topping lift as a crane to lift our inflatable out of the water to 
store it on the foredeck.  I hang a block & tackle from the pole to the dinghy 
to lift it, the same block and tackle we use for man overboard recovery, and 
also use as a preventer.  We put the dinghy on the foredeck if we think it will 
be too rough to tow it, or if we will be sailing for hours.  We put it in the 
vee berth if we aren't going to use it for some time, like a few days or more.



This is a link to our boat with the dinghy on the foredeck: 
https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/salazar.html



We use a gas powered outboard, but we use gas with NO ETHANOL (easy to get in 
Atlantic Canada, just buy premium gas), and I ALWAYS add fuel stabiliser to the 
fuel (I do that for all my small engines and they give me no trouble).  We 
usually shut the fuel off and run the engine till it quits if we won't be using 
it for a few days or more.  We often don't bother with the outboard and just 
row, our inflatable rows just fine with two people and some groceries on board.



Our inflatable was purchased about 11 years ago from a local vendor who has 
them made to his specification in China, from high quality european materials. 
http://www.seabrightmarine.ca/index.html (prices will look a bit high as they 
are in C$).



There are 2 main types of fabric that most inflatable boats out there are made 
of. The two materials are PVC, and Hypalon.



Here's a breakdown of the difference between the two materials:

-- PVC Vs. 
 
Hypalon Fabric - What is the 
difference?

There are 2 main types of fabric that 99% of the inflatable boats on the planet 
are made of. They are  PVC, and Hypalon. At SeaBright Marine we sell both 
types of boats so you can be sure that we have the boat that is right for you. 
As is the case with most things there are Pros and Cons to both 

PVC
Pro--significantly less expensive then Hypalon
Con-- won't last as long in the direct sunlight as Hypalon before it starts to 
break down (if left unprotected).
Con-- does not tolerate gasoline spills as well as Hypalon.

Hypalon
Pro-- will last significantly longer than PVC when exposed to prolonged periods 
of direct sunlight.
Pro-- will tolerate fuel spills better than PVC
Con—significantly more expensive then PVC

There is no doubt that PVC fabric won’t last as long as Hypalon fabric if the 
boat will be subjected to prolonged periods of direct sunlight and no measures 
have been taken to protect the PVC fabric from the sun (i.e. boat cover or UV 
spray). After a number of years in direct sunlight the PVC fabric will become 
sticky. After that it will become crusty and discoloured. Finally it will crack 
and begin to leak.

Here are some things to consider

1) This is not a problem unless your boat is going to be outside and 
unprotected all summer, every year. If you only use the boat occasionally such 
as on weekends or while on vacation then it isn't a factor at all. Even if you 
leave your boat outside all the time the issue can be solved by putting a 
sun/rain cover on your boat when it isn't in use or by applying a UV protective 
spray periodically (such as AeroSpace 3

Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I second the Porta-boat and ~2hp outboard.

We've used an inflatable but just because it folds up does not mean that it
is small or light.  Neither is the ports boat but at least I can lash it to
a lifeline station and it is more or less out of the way - though the
benches need stowed too.

The outboard is a mixed bag but when the wind is blowing against you,
paddles suck!

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Fri, Jun 12, 2020, 11:00 Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Listers,
>
> So I’m looking to add a dinghy and motor to the Enterprise to take
> advantage of some of the fantastic anchorages in the area (and yes, the
> dinghy will be named “Galileo”). But II have some limitations — I don’t
> want to install davits on my stern and I have no place at my club to store
> the dinghy when not being used.
>
> Question 1: Does anyone have experience with these roll-up inflatables?
> Any recommendations? They appear to be around 50 pounds and fairly easy to
> inflate and repack. I see prices ranging from $300 to $1,000. They look to
> be very workable and I can stow them in the v-berth when not in use.
>
> Questions 2: When it comes to a motor, I’d like to avoid a gas engine. I
> hear nothing but problems keeping those things running well and I’m no
> expert mechanic like Josh. I’m not sure I’d want to shell out the big bucks
> for a Torqueedo, but I’d like to know if anyone on the list has experience
> with other electrics or propane outboards. I want lightweight and I don’t
> need speed — just something t get me to a beach.
>
> Thanks all!
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray