Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate

[Gary W. Russell via CnC-List]

Chuck,
 Does your nameplate have an "R" on it?  I can't see any evidence that mine 
had a "+" on it.  I will check the dimensions on the sword.

Thanks,
Gary

Sent from my iPhone. ~~~_/)~~~

> On Jan 6, 2016, at 12:01 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Nice image.  Since you asked, the sword could be longer, and a + should be 
> added
> 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> From: "Gary Russell via CnC-List" 
> To: "C&C List" 
> Cc: "Gary Russell" 
> Sent: Tuesday, January 5, 2016 4:50:20 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate
> 
> I have created a CAD file of the starboard side nameplate.  I welcome your 
> opinions and criticism.  You may see it here:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQRSP2fYIFmR3dFbllPdXZ6aHc/view?usp=sharing
> 
> It's only the starboard side (so far), but all the symbols and characters are 
> individual components, so they can easily be re-arranged.  I need to check a 
> few dimension on the boat before I send it out for fabrication, but it was 
> just too cold here today to bother.
> 
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> '90 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 2:59 PM, Gary Russell  wrote:
>> Hi Josh,
>>  The dimensions I have are 21-3/16"L x 2"H x 1/4"T.  If using acrylic, I 
>> would definitely recommend VHB tape.  It is terrific stuff for acrylic and 
>> gelcoat.
>> 
>> Gary
>> 
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>> 
>>> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 11:58 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> I may have missed the message or dropped the ball last year.  Sorry folks.
>>> 
>>> The one on Ken's boat is aftermarket and is held on with 2 screws, one at 
>>> each end.  The way I imagined one being made and installed was that the 
>>> original plaque would be ground flush and the new metal plate fitted over 
>>> top.  For attachment I felt like welded on studs (in place of screws) that 
>>> went through the hull/deck was most favorable.  I don't know any of the 
>>> engineering hurdles.  To be honest, an automotive body shop would just use 
>>> 3M VHB tape.
>>> 
>>> The pictures should be sufficient to create a scale model.  The height is 
>>> roughly 2.5 inches.  I'll try to get real measurements asap so that the 
>>> scale can be applied to achieve the correct finished size.
>>> 
>>> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yUklxR0VXQUd0WjA/edit
>>> 
>>> Josh
>>> 
 On Jan 4, 2016 11:24 AM, "david via CnC-List"  
 wrote:
 This topic came up last year and I will put forward the same offer.
  
 I own / work at a shop that has CNC machining capability and 3D solid 
 modeling expertise. We work with solid models every day. My engineer is 
 also an enthusiast of 3D printing and last year bought his own printer, 
 although I am not sure of the size of it. It is able to print to different 
 grades and / or quality of acrylic.
  
 I would like to offer to produce a solid model at the least. The beauty of 
 a model is you can see what it looks like prior to building anything. 
 There are lots of manufacturing or production techniques that can be used 
 to make these depending on the material one wants to use. From what I 
 recall the ones with the raised letter (maybe acrylic) were also 
 "recessed" into the cabin. I think the ones on Ken's boat are proud of the 
 surface and maybe were never recessed or this was filled up.
  
 I believe where it left off last time was someone was going to make a 
 sketch or more specifically a "rubbing" of the outline so we had at least 
 the outer dimensions and scale of the logo and star.
  
 David Donnelly
 C&C 26 Mistress
 On January 3, 2016 at 10:36 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 
 Yeah Gary,
 
 The old looking pictures are my boat.  The new ones are Ken Heaton's.  
 This subject has come up at least twice since I've been a member of the 
 list.  This makes the third.  Everyone is pretty convinced that Ken has 
 the best nameplate.  All of the 37+'ers seem up for a bulk order of 
 nameplates.  If you figure out a solution let us know.
 
 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 C&C 37+
 Solomons, MD
 
  
 
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> To change your list preferences, including unsubscri

Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I can't see any evidence on mine of having had a "+" or anything else...  I
think you did a phenomenal job of replicating what was there.  I was just
suggesting that since you're so good then making the name plate match would
be nice.

Josh
On Jan 6, 2016 4:17 AM, "Gary W. Russell via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Chuck,
>  Does your nameplate have an "R" on it?  I can't see any evidence that
> mine had a "+" on it.  I will check the dimensions on the sword.
>
> Thanks,
> Gary
>
> Sent from my iPhone. ~~~_/)~~~
>
> On Jan 6, 2016, at 12:01 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Nice image.  Since you asked, the sword could be longer, and a + should be
> added
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> --
> *From: *"Gary Russell via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"C&C List" 
> *Cc: *"Gary Russell" 
> *Sent: *Tuesday, January 5, 2016 4:50:20 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate
>
> I have created a CAD file of the starboard side nameplate.  I welcome your
> opinions and criticism.  You may see it here:
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQRSP2fYIFmR3dFbllPdXZ6aHc/view?usp=sharing
>
> It's only the starboard side (so far), but all the symbols and characters
> are individual components, so they can easily be re-arranged.  I need to
> check a few dimension on the boat before I send it out for fabrication, but
> it was just too cold here today to bother.
>
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> '90 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 2:59 PM, Gary Russell  wrote:
>
>> Hi Josh,
>>  The dimensions I have are 21-3/16"L x 2"H x 1/4"T.  If using
>> acrylic, I would definitely recommend VHB tape.  It is terrific stuff for
>> acrylic and gelcoat.
>>
>> Gary
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 11:58 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I may have missed the message or dropped the ball last year.  Sorry
>>> folks.
>>>
>>> The one on Ken's boat is aftermarket and is held on with 2 screws, one
>>> at each end.  The way I imagined one being made and installed was that the
>>> original plaque would be ground flush and the new metal plate fitted over
>>> top.  For attachment I felt like welded on studs (in place of screws) that
>>> went through the hull/deck was most favorable.  I don't know any of the
>>> engineering hurdles.  To be honest, an automotive body shop would just use
>>> 3M VHB tape.
>>>
>>> The pictures should be sufficient to create a scale model.  The height
>>> is roughly 2.5 inches.  I'll try to get real measurements asap so that the
>>> scale can be applied to achieve the correct finished size.
>>>
>>> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yUklxR0VXQUd0WjA/edit
>>>
>>> Josh
>>> On Jan 4, 2016 11:24 AM, "david via CnC-List" 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 This topic came up last year and I will put forward the same offer.

 I own / work at a shop that has CNC machining capability and 3D solid
 modeling expertise. We work with solid models every day. My engineer is
 also an enthusiast of 3D printing and last year bought his own printer,
 although I am not sure of the size of it. It is able to print to different
 grades and / or quality of acrylic.

 I would like to offer to produce a solid model at the least. The beauty
 of a model is you can see what it looks like prior to building anything.
 There are lots of manufacturing or production techniques that can be used
 to make these depending on the material one wants to use. From what I
 recall the ones with the raised letter (maybe acrylic) were also "recessed"
 into the cabin. I think the ones on Ken's boat are proud of the surface and
 maybe were never recessed or this was filled up.

 I believe where it left off last time was someone was going to make a
 sketch or more specifically a "rubbing" of the outline so we had at least
 the outer dimensions and scale of the logo and star.

 David Donnelly
 C&C 26 Mistress

 On January 3, 2016 at 10:36 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

 Yeah Gary,

 The old looking pictures are my boat.  The new ones are Ken Heaton's.
 This subject has come up at least twice since I've been a member of the
 list.  This makes the third.  Everyone is pretty convinced that Ken has the
 best nameplate.  All of the 37+'ers seem up for a bulk order of
 nameplates.  If you figure out a solution let us know.

 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 C&C 37+
 Solomons, MD



 ___

 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



>>> ___

Re: Stus-List Engine Room Original Paint

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

If it does have lead in it, there are precautions for sanding it safely. 
The sanding dust will contain lead. You can find out easily if it has 
lead by purchasing a simple lead test kit at any hardware or home 
improvement store. It's basically a pen that you run along the surface 
and then see if the pen tip changes color.


Bill Bina

On 1/5/2016 8:56 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List wrote:

I've been cleaning up the engine room, which has included some sanding
of the original paint in there. Is there any chance that paint has lead
in it?
Thanks in advance,
--Bob Moriarty
Ox 1976 33-1
Jax, FL


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page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Here are a three different versions I've found online over the years.
Sorry about the massive links:

C&C 37+ Elindil -
http://newimages.yachtworld.com/resize/1/75/57/5427557_20151109151236681_1_XLARGE.jpg?f=/1/75/57/5427557_20151109151236681_1_XLARGE.jpg&w=924&h=693&t=1447113684000

C&C 37 XL - La Neige -
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MvsLCQecBrPsIcgKoJy7A0t-THDEsFhLgU3hfw24YlYaptuc5RsmPWMHKSPXqjHNty_r8tLVnE1gBrPFNW2BBQbhvVWr16-IRYjpNolT9o1BYJJoQihd192JgqQlRPwyZyZc8Vh4Mt6sUGh-Bo_SK7bWkFilvVexvJHeNYrTqdBawgl7mZpSZ--HDdve3xyGaVV2qnM0vltbNhvESdvrATXVw8045mk5W7WTs1Uks_Xm8hUXnsncQuwBQ8TjMetaxwbISPB_0VrGt9MVVckHtsbG-hOIHZ-1P-anRcD2wmkkyM011r_JLlfNGMpwz2W6G_5TJ3qBIuesgeWUldpSk67n6t8AGVBd2nGSUweNw4GGSX17LHFG3EiT_--m-OnuMLLObqFFO9KWmoo8Jw4pxQ5KyghKKgE6d4yvuxmeSbUEXdEQkMzfnpJlPtlHdpTaf_epywVr0vreCLVt2A9Cf7ye7uLuGSenM_0JD3A8yN8rAf7frPGIgXsSvnoeIo0_vons4dXmgUEixE9dCxcQrsWteUmpFhl2eFzk1p6o4eiBCRS4ZmTduwMjiMier_FBi6hS=w600-h182-no

C&C 37R - Defiant -
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YEQK8UgNyEDipkKKjg5c6zxxA95JpR79-qHNL-qHDVF25qFY6irOiJ7GqUiM7BAeZwwDIlOYwtX_9an5VVVzK8QSMywPlmP5Rk8iwADatYN8wLRgeSKjhvZTXFk37Ct8BlQYyPbLYGYiruQb5-SPa1ydbbObt-O8bveeQPbSU6Vh7JU7UhHSvFd36uwQwo42Al2XQUBaJtVCw149qYzbNoivSxmB7vuCUcOFnZWNgmcr7wPLJRiW6Z4QQBzFw6_WMsVJnYUEH6UL6gScA_rqZ25CidJKm0Yh1XNXb924KXX-Cigi8XKn04SXgruSi8oq3fqJJm1nzxnys2ZdrwuqjOafvM1kTPi7oJvIBWsAp5OWlHdI4cg2OGm3yoxo49arynY-ijyCEgzscDTVp0yFjdxRjfUaJr5eXSnl4fCtJcL9w5FIslmFks0CVfO1wqX8XD1pJhkxW3H78zuh53UYqA5_vyBGAbBcYimQwBhkLWu_lr8dtCEjWkLRCFsQVzB92TmBZBwVOOh2WA3MWmCAbMvrjz18SUU4Ievd_-NLZdAZl3aJ3aiJ9tVMSqANK33UGIzz=w600-h450-no

Ken H.



On 6 January 2016 at 05:32, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  wrote:

> I can't see any evidence on mine of having had a "+" or anything else...
> I think you did a phenomenal job of replicating what was there.  I was just
> suggesting that since you're so good then making the name plate match would
> be nice.
>
> Josh
> On Jan 6, 2016 4:17 AM, "Gary W. Russell via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Chuck,
>>  Does your nameplate have an "R" on it?  I can't see any evidence
>> that mine had a "+" on it.  I will check the dimensions on the sword.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Gary
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone. ~~~_/)~~~
>>
>> On Jan 6, 2016, at 12:01 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Nice image.  Since you asked, the sword could be longer, and a + should
>> be added
>>
>>
>> Chuck
>> Resolute
>> 1990 C&C 34R
>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>>
>> --
>> *From: *"Gary Russell via CnC-List" 
>> *To: *"C&C List" 
>> *Cc: *"Gary Russell" 
>> *Sent: *Tuesday, January 5, 2016 4:50:20 PM
>> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate
>>
>> I have created a CAD file of the starboard side nameplate.  I welcome
>> your opinions and criticism.  You may see it here:
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQRSP2fYIFmR3dFbllPdXZ6aHc/view?usp=sharing
>>
>> It's only the starboard side (so far), but all the symbols and characters
>> are individual components, so they can easily be re-arranged.  I need to
>> check a few dimension on the boat before I send it out for fabrication, but
>> it was just too cold here today to bother.
>>
>> Gary
>> S/V High Maintenance
>> '90 C&C 37 Plus
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 2:59 PM, Gary Russell 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Josh,
>>>  The dimensions I have are 21-3/16"L x 2"H x 1/4"T.  If using
>>> acrylic, I would definitely recommend VHB tape.  It is terrific stuff for
>>> acrylic and gelcoat.
>>>
>>> Gary
>>>
>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 11:58 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 I may have missed the message or dropped the ball last year.  Sorry
 folks.

 The one on Ken's boat is aftermarket and is held on with 2 screws, one
 at each end.  The way I imagined one being made and installed was that the
 original plaque would be ground flush and the new metal plate fitted over
 top.  For attachment I felt like welded on studs (in place of screws) that
 went through the hull/deck was most favorable.  I don't know any of the
 engineering hurdles.  To be honest, an automotive body shop would just use
 3M VHB tape.

 The pictures should be sufficient to create a scale model.  The height
 is roughly 2.5 inches.  I'll try to get real measurements asap so that the
 scale can be applied to achieve the correct finished size.

 https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yUklxR0VXQUd0WjA/edit

 Josh
 On Jan 4, 2016 11:24 AM, "david via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

> This topic came up last year and I will put forward the same offer.
>
> I own / work at a shop that has CNC machining capability and 3D solid
> modeling expertise. We work with solid models every day. My engineer is
> also an enthusiast of 3D printing and last year bought his own printer,
> although I am not sure of the size of it. It 

Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Chuck,
 I think I have discovered the problem.  The sword on my nameplates has
the "blade" 3 times the length of the other points of the star.  But I
measured the sword on other pictures where the "blade" is over 4 times the
length of the other points.  So, apparently, the C&C sword/dagger/star is
not standardized.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
'90 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI,USA

~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Jan 6, 2016 at 12:01 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:

> Nice image.  Since you asked, the sword could be longer, and a + should be
> added
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> --
> *From: *"Gary Russell via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"C&C List" 
> *Cc: *"Gary Russell" 
> *Sent: *Tuesday, January 5, 2016 4:50:20 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate
>
> I have created a CAD file of the starboard side nameplate.  I welcome your
> opinions and criticism.  You may see it here:
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQRSP2fYIFmR3dFbllPdXZ6aHc/view?usp=sharing
>
> It's only the starboard side (so far), but all the symbols and characters
> are individual components, so they can easily be re-arranged.  I need to
> check a few dimension on the boat before I send it out for fabrication, but
> it was just too cold here today to bother.
>
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> '90 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 2:59 PM, Gary Russell  wrote:
>
>> Hi Josh,
>>  The dimensions I have are 21-3/16"L x 2"H x 1/4"T.  If using
>> acrylic, I would definitely recommend VHB tape.  It is terrific stuff for
>> acrylic and gelcoat.
>>
>> Gary
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 11:58 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I may have missed the message or dropped the ball last year.  Sorry
>>> folks.
>>>
>>> The one on Ken's boat is aftermarket and is held on with 2 screws, one
>>> at each end.  The way I imagined one being made and installed was that the
>>> original plaque would be ground flush and the new metal plate fitted over
>>> top.  For attachment I felt like welded on studs (in place of screws) that
>>> went through the hull/deck was most favorable.  I don't know any of the
>>> engineering hurdles.  To be honest, an automotive body shop would just use
>>> 3M VHB tape.
>>>
>>> The pictures should be sufficient to create a scale model.  The height
>>> is roughly 2.5 inches.  I'll try to get real measurements asap so that the
>>> scale can be applied to achieve the correct finished size.
>>>
>>> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yUklxR0VXQUd0WjA/edit
>>>
>>> Josh
>>> On Jan 4, 2016 11:24 AM, "david via CnC-List" 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 This topic came up last year and I will put forward the same offer.

 I own / work at a shop that has CNC machining capability and 3D solid
 modeling expertise. We work with solid models every day. My engineer is
 also an enthusiast of 3D printing and last year bought his own printer,
 although I am not sure of the size of it. It is able to print to different
 grades and / or quality of acrylic.

 I would like to offer to produce a solid model at the least. The beauty
 of a model is you can see what it looks like prior to building anything.
 There are lots of manufacturing or production techniques that can be used
 to make these depending on the material one wants to use. From what I
 recall the ones with the raised letter (maybe acrylic) were also "recessed"
 into the cabin. I think the ones on Ken's boat are proud of the surface and
 maybe were never recessed or this was filled up.

 I believe where it left off last time was someone was going to make a
 sketch or more specifically a "rubbing" of the outline so we had at least
 the outer dimensions and scale of the logo and star.

 David Donnelly
 C&C 26 Mistress

 On January 3, 2016 at 10:36 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

 Yeah Gary,

 The old looking pictures are my boat.  The new ones are Ken Heaton's.
 This subject has come up at least twice since I've been a member of the
 list.  This makes the third.  Everyone is pretty convinced that Ken has the
 best nameplate.  All of the 37+'ers seem up for a bulk order of
 nameplates.  If you figure out a solution let us know.

 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 C&C 37+
 Solomons, MD



 ___

 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go

Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Josh,
 I'm going to change the nameplates to "say" C&C 50 and see if I can
sell the boat for more money.  😀
Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 5:45 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looks awesome!
>
> It is completely authentic to the original.  Very well done.  I agree that
> either a "+"  or an "R" or "XL" or "37/40" would be nice options and
> appropriate.
>
> I am apprehensive about the durability of plastic and I personally will
> continue to pursue a polished metal plaque.  I had imagined something
> similar to Ken's but as I'm writing this I re-imagined something laser
> etched.  This is a phenomenal start towards either of those goals.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Jan 5, 2016 5:14 PM, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Beautiful !  You may have a future there - !
>>
>>
>>
>> Seems like you should have the + on there, as the 37 is a completely
>> different boat.
>>
>>
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>>
>> C&C 39 Erie PA
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Gary
>> Russell via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 05, 2016 4:50 PM
>> *To:* C&C List
>> *Cc:* Gary Russell
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate
>>
>>
>>
>> I have created a CAD file of the starboard side nameplate.  I welcome
>> your opinions and criticism.  You may see it here:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQRSP2fYIFmR3dFbllPdXZ6aHc/view?usp=sharing
>>
>>
>>
>> It's only the starboard side (so far), but all the symbols and characters
>> are individual components, so they can easily be re-arranged.  I need to
>> check a few dimension on the boat before I send it out for fabrication, but
>> it was just too cold here today to bother.
>>
>>
>>
>> Gary
>>
>> S/V High Maintenance
>>
>> '90 C&C 37 Plus
>>
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 2:59 PM, Gary Russell 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Josh,
>>
>>  The dimensions I have are 21-3/16"L x 2"H x 1/4"T.  If using
>> acrylic, I would definitely recommend VHB tape.  It is terrific stuff for
>> acrylic and gelcoat.
>>
>>
>>
>> Gary
>>
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 11:58 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I may have missed the message or dropped the ball last year.  Sorry folks.
>>
>> The one on Ken's boat is aftermarket and is held on with 2 screws, one at
>> each end.  The way I imagined one being made and installed was that the
>> original plaque would be ground flush and the new metal plate fitted over
>> top.  For attachment I felt like welded on studs (in place of screws) that
>> went through the hull/deck was most favorable.  I don't know any of the
>> engineering hurdles.  To be honest, an automotive body shop would just use
>> 3M VHB tape.
>>
>> The pictures should be sufficient to create a scale model.  The height is
>> roughly 2.5 inches.  I'll try to get real measurements asap so that the
>> scale can be applied to achieve the correct finished size.
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yUklxR0VXQUd0WjA/edit
>>
>> Josh
>>
>> On Jan 4, 2016 11:24 AM, "david via CnC-List" 
>> wrote:
>>
>> This topic came up last year and I will put forward the same offer.
>>
>>
>>
>> I own / work at a shop that has CNC machining capability and 3D solid
>> modeling expertise. We work with solid models every day. My engineer is
>> also an enthusiast of 3D printing and last year bought his own printer,
>> although I am not sure of the size of it. It is able to print to different
>> grades and / or quality of acrylic.
>>
>>
>>
>> I would like to offer to produce a solid model at the least. The beauty
>> of a model is you can see what it looks like prior to building anything.
>> There are lots of manufacturing or production techniques that can be used
>> to make these depending on the material one wants to use. From what I
>> recall the ones with the raised letter (maybe acrylic) were also "recessed"
>> into the cabin. I think the ones on Ken's boat are proud of the surface and
>> maybe were never recessed or this was filled up.
>>
>>
>>
>> I believe where it left off last time was someone was going to make a
>> sketch or more specifically a "rubbing" of the outline so we had at least
>> the outer dimensions and scale of the logo and star.
>>
>>
>>
>> David Donnelly
>>
>> C&C 26 Mistress
>>
>> On January 3, 2016 at 10:36 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Yeah Gary,
>>
>> The old looking pictures are my boat.  The new ones are Ken Heaton's.
>> This subject has come up at least twice since I've been a member of the
>> list.  This makes the third.  Everyone is pretty convinced that Ken has the
>> best nameplate.  All of the 37+'ers seem up for a bulk order of
>> nameplates.  If you figure out a solution let us know.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomo

Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

After 1992 C&C Yachts marketed the *C&C 37/40* *+*, *XL* & *R* as the *C&C
40* so they learned that lesson.

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/brochures/40foot/40b3pg01.htm

Ken H.



On 6 January 2016 at 07:49, Gary Russell via CnC-List  wrote:

> Josh,
>  I'm going to change the nameplates to "say" C&C 50 and see if I can
> sell the boat for more money.  😀
> Gary
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 5:45 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Looks awesome!
>>
>> It is completely authentic to the original.  Very well done.  I agree
>> that either a "+"  or an "R" or "XL" or "37/40" would be nice options and
>> appropriate.
>>
>> I am apprehensive about the durability of plastic and I personally will
>> continue to pursue a polished metal plaque.  I had imagined something
>> similar to Ken's but as I'm writing this I re-imagined something laser
>> etched.  This is a phenomenal start towards either of those goals.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> On Jan 5, 2016 5:14 PM, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Beautiful !  You may have a future there - !
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Seems like you should have the + on there, as the 37 is a completely
>>> different boat.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Bill Coleman
>>>
>>> C&C 39 Erie PA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Gary
>>> Russell via CnC-List
>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 05, 2016 4:50 PM
>>> *To:* C&C List
>>> *Cc:* Gary Russell
>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I have created a CAD file of the starboard side nameplate.  I welcome
>>> your opinions and criticism.  You may see it here:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQRSP2fYIFmR3dFbllPdXZ6aHc/view?usp=sharing
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> It's only the starboard side (so far), but all the symbols and
>>> characters are individual components, so they can easily be re-arranged.  I
>>> need to check a few dimension on the boat before I send it out for
>>> fabrication, but it was just too cold here today to bother.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Gary
>>>
>>> S/V High Maintenance
>>>
>>> '90 C&C 37 Plus
>>>
>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>>
>>>
>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 2:59 PM, Gary Russell 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Josh,
>>>
>>>  The dimensions I have are 21-3/16"L x 2"H x 1/4"T.  If using
>>> acrylic, I would definitely recommend VHB tape.  It is terrific stuff for
>>> acrylic and gelcoat.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Gary
>>>
>>>
>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 11:58 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> I may have missed the message or dropped the ball last year.  Sorry
>>> folks.
>>>
>>> The one on Ken's boat is aftermarket and is held on with 2 screws, one
>>> at each end.  The way I imagined one being made and installed was that the
>>> original plaque would be ground flush and the new metal plate fitted over
>>> top.  For attachment I felt like welded on studs (in place of screws) that
>>> went through the hull/deck was most favorable.  I don't know any of the
>>> engineering hurdles.  To be honest, an automotive body shop would just use
>>> 3M VHB tape.
>>>
>>> The pictures should be sufficient to create a scale model.  The height
>>> is roughly 2.5 inches.  I'll try to get real measurements asap so that the
>>> scale can be applied to achieve the correct finished size.
>>>
>>> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yUklxR0VXQUd0WjA/edit
>>>
>>> Josh
>>>
>>> On Jan 4, 2016 11:24 AM, "david via CnC-List" 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> This topic came up last year and I will put forward the same offer.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I own / work at a shop that has CNC machining capability and 3D solid
>>> modeling expertise. We work with solid models every day. My engineer is
>>> also an enthusiast of 3D printing and last year bought his own printer,
>>> although I am not sure of the size of it. It is able to print to different
>>> grades and / or quality of acrylic.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I would like to offer to produce a solid model at the least. The beauty
>>> of a model is you can see what it looks like prior to building anything.
>>> There are lots of manufacturing or production techniques that can be used
>>> to make these depending on the material one wants to use. From what I
>>> recall the ones with the raised letter (maybe acrylic) were also "recessed"
>>> into the cabin. I think the ones on Ken's boat are proud of the surface and
>>> maybe were never recessed or this was filled up.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I believe where it left off last time was someone was going to make a
>>> sketch or more specifically a "rubbing" of the outline so we had at least
>>> the outer dimensions and scale of the logo and star.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> David Donnelly
>>>
>>> C&C 26 Mistress
>>>
>>> On January 3, 2016 at 10:36 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.co

Re: Stus-List Engine acoustic insulation, incl. sources in

[Sophia Weber via CnC-List]

I'd be interested in getting some engine acousting insulation as well (also
in Toronto) as I don't think my boat has any in it. At least it doesn't
sound like it does! Can barely hear crew if they are not immediately in
front of me over all of the noise.

Crewed a few races on a C&C30 this year (also on this list), and could
barely hear the engine was on! So there is definitely something I should be
able to do with my gal as well. If anybody finds a good deal somewhere,
please let me know. Maybe there will be something at the boat show?

Sophia
C&C 29 MK1
NYC Toronto

-- Forwarded message --
From: Derek McLeod 
To: Dave Syer 
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2016 00:14:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine acoustic insulation, incl. sources in
Hi,

I've purchased soundproofing products from Acoustiguard for use in my house
and was happy with them as a supplier. I can't speak specifically to the
Barymat product.

I'm also planning to replace my engine compartment insulation as it is
disintegrating. I was thinking of Roxul AFB at first and then just saw
Acoustiguard has a fibreglass faced mineral fibre board called ML Board
that might be worth pricing out. Comes in 1" or 2" thickness and says its
uses include engine enclosure linings.

The Barymat BTMM-14C is foil faced, 1.25" thick and says its suitable for
marine use (dirty, wet or oily). Might be worth getting pricing on as
well...

Derek McLeod
1983 29-2 Aileron
Toronto

On Jan 5, 2016, at 8:47 PM, Dave Syer  wrote:

Thanks Don, (And Tim)

Will check out the HMP material.  I also found something called Barymat
BM-1C at two local industrial suppliers one of whom quoted C$134 for
27sqft. (54X72)   (HMP is C$95 13sqft, not the same stuff though)   I have
a sample of the barymat material and it is quite heavy at 1.6lb/sqft.
Will compare its mass to HMP.  BM-1C t is .32" thick vs 1" for HMP, but I
don't know about the density.

http://www.acoustiguard.com/products/acoustic-sheet-roll-materials/barymat-bm-1c.html


Anyone ever use this Barymat material?  (or similar?)

Dave




Message: 1
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2016 12:02:28 -0500
From: Don Newman 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine acoustic insulation, incl. sources in
Canada?
Message-ID: <5b2a703e-d8f7-4f4d-b8b5-d9e2f280d...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii

HMP has some good reasonably priced material.
I have left overs if you are near Hamilton.

Don Newman
905 547 1750

> On Jan 5, 2016, at 11:21 AM, Dave Syer via CnC-List 
wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> Have searched the archives and found some great discussion on insulation
installation practices.  Several folks replaced this material in 2014.
Funny remark on the existing material being "both lily and dusty at the
same time.   Mine is making a mess.
>
> Any particularly good materials to recommend?
> Any suggestions as to sources in Canada?  (Toronto specifically - film
industry gen set people would be ideal...)
>
> Thanks, Dave
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Furler system

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Curtis

I the sails are that old and you do plan to enter some club races consider 
going 135% and tossing the old sails into a storage bin and throw away the key. 
 Find your area phrf adjustments to ensure the sail is not just over a 
threshold and go from there.  In our area the standard boat comes with 155% 
headsail with no adjustment, up to 135 with +6 sec/mile, 110 or less with 12 
sec /mile.  Note that these adjustments are for MASTHEAD RIGS ONLY (ex. C&C 
30-1) sailing with no spinnaker.  There is an additional adjustment for 
masthead non spinnaker boats of a further +18 sec/mile.

A C&C Redwing 30 at our club went thru exactly your exercise a few years back. 
They ended up with a 135% furling headsail and dropped the old 150 hank on from 
their inventory.  The 135 being new was far faster than the old 150 in all 
winds and also gave them the 6 sec/mile adjustment.  Their overall happiness 
was thru the roof as they now had the convenience of a 135.  My friends with 
the Redwing do between 5 and 10 club races a year mostly against other mom and 
pop boats like the C&C 30-1 (there are four or five at the club) and one other 
redwing 30.   They had North Sails Atlantic perform the work and provide the 
sails and furling.

Best of luck with this.  You and your wife will LOVE IT!!!

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2016 10:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Curtis
Subject: Stus-List Furler system


I have the approval from the admiral to purchase a new sail and furler system 
for my C&C30MK1.  1981 1/4 ss wire

Any advise on how or what to buy? I have no Idea how to proceed. I have a 115% 
135% and a 170%. all hank on sails. I have a asymmetrical in a sock as well.

My budget needs to be around or below $4, to 5 grand.

I'm looking for advise on the complete package.

1) can I install it?

2) how do I know what to buy? I sail local with fun club racing?

3) my sails are all from the 1980's and 1990's? Throw them out and buy new?

3) Asy furler?

Thanks for your help





Capt,Curtis McDaniel



Dataw island Marina

843-838-8410 Office

http://www.datawmarina.com/

 __/) 

.


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Re: Stus-List Engine acoustic insulation, incl. sources in Canada?

[Dave Syer via CnC-List]

Thanks Joel and others who have responded.   I have asked Holland Marine
for a Datasheet on their product (will try to get a sample also) and I am
going to briefly compare that with the Barymat stuff, Soundown, and will
look at Fat Mat as well.   Will summarize and post results for posterity.

Dave






On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 9:24 PM, Jake Brodersen  wrote:

> Dave,
>
>
>
> I bought Sounddown insulation.  It was kind of pricey, even at Defender.
> It works well.  I’ve started using a product called Fat Mat in my
> cars/trucks.  It is thin, but heavy.  It sticks to most surfaces and is
> easy to apply.  I might try some on the boat soon too.  It is also fairly
> inexpensive.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dave
> Syer via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 5, 2016 11:21
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Dave Syer 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Engine acoustic insulation, incl. sources in Canada?
>
>
>
> Hi All,
>
>
>
> Have searched the archives and found some great discussion on insulation
> installation practices.  Several folks replaced this material in 2014.
> Funny remark on the existing material being "both lily and dusty at the
> same time.   Mine is making a mess.
>
>
>
> Any particularly good materials to recommend?
>
> Any suggestions as to sources in Canada?  (Toronto specifically - film
> industry gen set people would be ideal...)
>
>
>
> Thanks, Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List winter condensation

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

A few years back I purchase an Eva Dry condensorless dehumidifier 
https://www.eva-dry.com/dehumidifiers/eva-dry-1100-petite-dehumidifier/

(I am not sure if condensorless is a word but I think it works in this case)

This is a 12v unit that weights approx. 4 lbs and removes up to one cup of 
water per day.  The unit comes with a 110v wall plug adaptor but for some 
reason not the 12v cord.  Whenever we are at our dock I plug this in and leave 
it on all the time.  When we go sailing I put it on a shelf over the settee 
since it is very small and light.  If I was to be away from the boat for 
extended periods I could probably drill a hole in the reservoir and place it in 
the sink to provide drainage.  This is a great unit and when mine finally dies 
I will buy another.  It beats the Heck out of dragging a full sized 
dehumidifier on and off a boat as I used to do on previous boats

Note that I obviously do not use this once the temps fall below freezing

Mike
Persistence
Halifax

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2016 1:50 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List winter condensation


I'm  having the same problems as everyone else.  Never before.

I worry about leaving heating appliances running while I'm not there.  I bought 
a dehumidifier.  30 pint/day.  Might not be any safer to leave alone than a 
heater.  Oddly, I have a engine block heater which I don't have any fear of 
leaving unattended.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jan 5, 2016 9:39 PM, "Russ & Melody via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Joe,

Your current conditions sum up a B.C. South Coast winter pretty well.

I run a ceramic style "cube" heater set about 10 degrees F above ambient and on 
a 12 hour timer set to come on at midnight. This allows me to override the 
timer if I'm puttering on the boat during the day.

80 bucks CDN is my winter electric bill.

If it gets really cold, like now it's at freezing, then I might get some 
condensation on the fore hatch 'cause I don't have a foredeck tarp hung yet.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
B.C. South Coast


At 09:10 AM 05/01/2016, you wrote:

This winter with weather going form warm and humid to cold and back has caused 
more condensation than the last 10 winters combined.
Anyone have any good ideas to get rid of it? Right now I am thinking about 
getting calcium chloride (the ingredient in Damp-Rid) and putting out a bucket 
of it plus maybe turning the heat up. I usually have it set about 45-50 degrees 
or so if I am not down there doing something.
Joe
Coquina
Cabin temp 51 degrees right now: http://aprs.fi/telemetry/a/N3HGB-5


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Re: Stus-List Furler system

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

+1 for the Furlex. I had Furlex on my C&C 24 and now I have a Harken A00. Night 
and day. Furlex is substantially easier to attach (and detach) when you take 
the mast down or step the mast back (and we do it twice a year).

I think both (Harken and Furlex) are designed for DIY installation (the 
instructions are very detailed).

You will need a new headstay (or at least re-swage it).

I would toss the old hank-on sails and get a new 135 jib. The 135 is assuming 
that you have “average” winds. Some people like even smaller sails, if the area 
where you sail has strong winds. You should be able to get a new jib for under 
$1500.

Marek
C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, January 6, 2016 00:45
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Furler system

Curtis,

I installed a Furlex 200s on my last boat. The rigger/sail maker that sold it 
to me evidently was not supposed to allow me to install it myself. I think that 
for the same price he would have done the work. I just like DIY. The 200s is 
their smallest furler and would probably be sufficient for your application. I 
really like the design A LOT! One thing to consider is the annual maintenance. 
With Harken, the delrin bearings don't require anything but a freshwater rinse 
and some mclube. Furlex has SS bearings which are supposed to be fresh water 
rinsed and greased. SS seems more durable but heavier and requires more-ish 
maintenance. A Furlex comes with a new headstay which, if you decide to install 
yourself, can be easily made up and terminated with the included swageless 
fitting. Really nice. Well engineered. I paid ~1200 for the furler and then 
after installation had a sail made for ~$1300.

BTW the headstay is a single point vulnerability which could cause a loss of 
the mast. If it hasn't been replaced, it probably should be. I would take this 
opportunity to upsize the wire. I'm currently having the rod rigging in my 30 
year old furler replaced. Upsized from #12 to #17 Navteq rod. Break strength 
from 12500 to 17500 and only about 3 lbs heavier. Just piece of mind. 

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Jan 5, 2016 9:03 PM, "Curtis via CnC-List"  wrote:

  I have the approval from the admiral to purchase a new sail and furler system 
for my C&C30MK1. 1981 1/4 ss wire

  Any advise on how or what to buy? I have no Idea how to proceed. I have a 
115% 135% and a 170%. all hank on sails. I have a asymmetrical in a sock as 
well. 

  My budget needs to be around or below $4, to 5 grand.

  I'm looking for advise on the complete package.

  1) can I install it?

  2) how do I know what to buy? I sail local with fun club racing?

  3) my sails are all from the 1980's and 1990's? Throw them out and buy new?

  3) Asy furler?

  Thanks for your help







  Capt,Curtis McDaniel


  Dataw island Marina

  843-838-8410 Office

  http://www.datawmarina.com/




   __/) 

  . 





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Re: Stus-List winter condensation

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I bet that even a small (battery powered) fan would help. The more permanent 
option is one of the solar powered fans, but even a 12 V computer chassis fan 
would do (and they use hardly any current).

Marek

From: Chuck S via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, January 6, 2016 00:17
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Cc: Chuck S 
Subject: Re: Stus-List winter condensation

Agree.  My 2 cents.  I usually don't see a problem mold until the spring, but 
this winter near Annapolis, I had the white mildew on wood panels and doors and 
some black on white ceilings, all due I think to condensation collecting where 
verticles meet horizontals.  Spent half a day wiping down the wood with Pinesol 
spray mix.  It came clean very easily.  But I need to re-oil the teak.  The 
ceilings came clean using a damp sponge.  Now it's below freezing so I expect 
the problem will be dormant till we see OA temps above 50 again.  I don't 
believe in heaters or electrical devices powered while I am not present, so 
cleaning is my only resource.  I haven't re-oiled the teak in a few years, so 
expect it may help to do that this spring.  



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Acoustic Insulation in Toronto

[Alex Giannelia via CnC-List]

ent I felt like welded on studs
>> (in place of screws) that went through the hull/deck was most
>> favorable.  I don't know any of the engineering hurdles.  To be
>> honest, an automotive body shop would just use 3M VHB tape.
>>
>> The pictures should be sufficient to create a scale model.  The
>> height is roughly 2.5 inches.  I'll try to get real measurements asap
>> so that the scale can be applied to achieve the correct finished size.
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yUklxR0VXQUd0WjA/edit
>>
>> Josh
>>
>> On Jan 4, 2016 11:24 AM, "david via CnC-List" 
>> wrote:
>>
>> This topic came up last year and I will put forward the same offer.
>>
>>
>>
>> I own / work at a shop that has CNC machining capability and 3D solid
>> modeling expertise. We work with solid models every day. My engineer
>> is also an enthusiast of 3D printing and last year bought his own
>> printer, although I am not sure of the size of it. It is able to
>> print to different grades and / or quality of acrylic.
>>
>>
>>
>> I would like to offer to produce a solid model at the least. The
>> beauty of a model is you can see what it looks like prior to building 
>> anything.
>> There are lots of manufacturing or production techniques that can be
>> used to make these depending on the material one wants to use. From
>> what I recall the ones with the raised letter (maybe acrylic) were also 
>> "recessed"
>> into the cabin. I think the ones on Ken's boat are proud of the
>> surface and maybe were never recessed or this was filled up.
>>
>>
>>
>> I believe where it left off last time was someone was going to make a
>> sketch or more specifically a "rubbing" of the outline so we had at
>> least the outer dimensions and scale of the logo and star.
>>
>>
>>
>> David Donnelly
>>
>> C&C 26 Mistress
>>
>> On January 3, 2016 at 10:36 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Yeah Gary,
>>
>> The old looking pictures are my boat.  The new ones are Ken Heaton's.
>> This subject has come up at least twice since I've been a member of
>> the list.  This makes the third.  Everyone is pretty convinced that
>> Ken has the best nameplate.  All of the 37+'ers seem up for a bulk
>> order of nameplates.  If you figure out a solution let us know.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
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>>
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>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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>>
>>
> ___
>
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2016 08:15:31 -0400
From: Ken Heaton 
To: cnc-list 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

After 1992 C&C Yachts marketed the *C&C 37/40* *+*, *XL* & *R* as the *C&C
40* so they learned that lesson.

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/brochures/40foot/40b3pg01.htm

Ken H.



On 6 January 2016 at 07:49, Gary Russell via CnC-List  wrote:

> Josh,
>  I'm going to change the nameplates to "say" C&C 50 and see if I
> can sell the boat for more money.  ?
> Gary
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Tue, Ja

Stus-List Wheel replacement C&C35 mk3

[Chuck Saur via CnC-List]

Thanks all for info and perspectives on the retro-wheel-fit.  Chuck G,
thanks for the Edson help.  The ebay pic showed the wheel on an Edson ped
but you may be right on with the metric possibility.  I will not modify the
hub shaft. I will toy around with the wheel.   I have an additional Edson
shaft (changed it out to accept a new raymarine autopilot) I will take them
both to a shop...

Thanks again.

*Chuck Saur*

(517)-490-5926
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Stus-List Acoustic insulation in Canada

[Mitchell's via CnC-List]

Quite often Holland Marine has acoustic insulation on a big discount at the 
Toronto Boat Show. (Next week!) Your timing may be perfect. 
Len 


Sent from my mobile device. 
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Re: Stus-List Engine Room Original Paint

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

Definitely wear a proper mask when sanding.  Scrape first to minimize the dust 
in the air.Collect the dust as best you can (you don't want it in the boat) and 
double bag for disposal.  Remember it is considered a hazardous waste and the 
RCRA rules apply.RonWild CheriC&C30-1STL

 

  From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Russ & Melody 
 Sent: Tuesday, January 5, 2016 8:23 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Room Original Paint
   

If it's in half decent shape after forty years, probably yes. The bestpaints 
back then had lead in it. We used to buy/compare exterior paintbased on price & 
weight.

 Just don't let any children chew on it.

  Cheers,Russ
 Sweet35 mk-1


At 05:56 PM 05/01/2016, you wrote:

I've been cleaning up the engineroom, which has included some sanding of the 
original paint in there. Isthere any chance that paint has lead in it?
Thanks in advance,
--Bob Moriarty
Ox 1976 33-1
Jax, FL
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Stus-List Headsail

[James Nichols via CnC-List]

I am trying to figure out my head sail arrangement.  I don't have self furling, 
I do have rod rigging (probably original, will be thoroughly inspected before I 
put it under stress). 
I am guessing that the track that I have on the front stay is there because you 
can't hank directly onto the rod. 
My question is, how freely is that track supposed to swivel around the rod? 
Mine seems pretty still, and I would think that isn't a good thing for the rod 
when you change tacks and the track puts the extra rotational stress on the rod.
Thanks for any input.
JamesS/V Kristy1971 C&C 39___

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Re: Stus-List winter condensation

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Note that Damp-Rid is actually calcium chloride. I am going to buy a big bag of 
it at Home Depot and leave a bucket sitting out.
We will see how well that works.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2016 8:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List winter condensation

A few years back I purchase an Eva Dry condensorless dehumidifier 
https://www.eva-dry.com/dehumidifiers/eva-dry-1100-petite-dehumidifier/

(I am not sure if condensorless is a word but I think it works in this case)

This is a 12v unit that weights approx. 4 lbs and removes up to one cup of 
water per day.  The unit comes with a 110v wall plug adaptor but for some 
reason not the 12v cord.  Whenever we are at our dock I plug this in and leave 
it on all the time.  When we go sailing I put it on a shelf over the settee 
since it is very small and light.  If I was to be away from the boat for 
extended periods I could probably drill a hole in the reservoir and place it in 
the sink to provide drainage.  This is a great unit and when mine finally dies 
I will buy another.  It beats the Heck out of dragging a full sized 
dehumidifier on and off a boat as I used to do on previous boats

Note that I obviously do not use this once the temps fall below freezing

Mike
Persistence
Halifax

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2016 1:50 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List winter condensation


I'm  having the same problems as everyone else.  Never before.

I worry about leaving heating appliances running while I'm not there.  I bought 
a dehumidifier.  30 pint/day.  Might not be any safer to leave alone than a 
heater.  Oddly, I have a engine block heater which I don't have any fear of 
leaving unattended.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jan 5, 2016 9:39 PM, "Russ & Melody via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Joe,

Your current conditions sum up a B.C. South Coast winter pretty well.

I run a ceramic style "cube" heater set about 10 degrees F above ambient and on 
a 12 hour timer set to come on at midnight. This allows me to override the 
timer if I'm puttering on the boat during the day.

80 bucks CDN is my winter electric bill.

If it gets really cold, like now it's at freezing, then I might get some 
condensation on the fore hatch 'cause I don't have a foredeck tarp hung yet.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
B.C. South Coast


At 09:10 AM 05/01/2016, you wrote:
This winter with weather going form warm and humid to cold and back has caused 
more condensation than the last 10 winters combined.
Anyone have any good ideas to get rid of it? Right now I am thinking about 
getting calcium chloride (the ingredient in Damp-Rid) and putting out a bucket 
of it plus maybe turning the heat up. I usually have it set about 45-50 degrees 
or so if I am not down there doing something.
Joe
Coquina
Cabin temp 51 degrees right now: http://aprs.fi/telemetry/a/N3HGB-5


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Stus-List Acoustic Insulation

[James Nichols via CnC-List]

You might look into Mineral Wool insulation. 
It is dense and works great as a mass based sound dampener,  it is fire proof,  
so engine heat will have no effect on it.  Non-toxic,  fairly rigid,  easy to 
shape with a serrated blade. 
Tons of benefits and I can't think of any drawbacks. 
You should be able to find it in a big box hardware store inexpensively as 
well. 
JamesS/V Kristy 1971 C&C 39 ___

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Re: Stus-List winter condensation

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Makes sense to save money, but I would want to find out how to estimate the 
pounds of CaCl to size of bucket ratio. 
Nothing like an overflowing bucket of salty water in an untended boat. 

Steve Thomas
Port Stanley, ON

  - Original Message - 
  From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
  To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
  Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2016 13:29
  Subject: Re: Stus-List winter condensation


  Note that Damp-Rid is actually calcium chloride. I am going to buy a big bag 
of it at Home Depot and leave a bucket sitting out. 

  We will see how well that works.
  Joe 

  Coquina

   

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Re: Stus-List Acoustic Insulation

[jim schwartz via CnC-List]

is this insulation meant to be attached to the inside of the engine compartment 
for sound dampening?
jim
sea ya!
c&c 38 lf



-Original Message-
From: James Nichols via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: James Nichols 
Sent: Wed, Jan 6, 2016 1:32 pm
Subject: Stus-List Acoustic Insulation


You might look into Mineral Wool insulation. 


It is dense and works great as a mass based sound dampener,  it is fire proof,  
so engine heat will have no effect on it.  Non-toxic,  fairly rigid,  easy to 
shape with a serrated blade. 


Tons of benefits and I can't think of any drawbacks. 


You should be able to find it in a big box hardware store inexpensively as 
well. 


James
S/V Kristy 
1971 C&C 39 

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Re: Stus-List winter condensation

[Bruce Pope via CnC-List]

I hang the CaCl in nylon stockings over big buckets in the v-berth, head, and 
salon.

Cut nylon in half, fill each leg 1/2 way,  lasts about a month and no worries 
about overflow.

Plus my girlfriend loves it when I use her nylons for stuff like that.

Someone mentioned mold/mildew formation.  I used to get that but don't now that 
I wash the interior with a diluted bleach solution  before I put the boat away 
for winter.


Bruce

s/v 'Gyrfalcon'

'86 C&C 29 MK II

Kootenay Lake, BC

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Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

I'll be heading down to Alera this afternoon to drop off my 
dehumidifier and will take the time to undo the dodger and take some 
pictures of the Nameplate.  Since it has been under a dodger or 
winter cover for most of the time, it's in fairly pristine condition.


Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
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Re: Stus-List Headsail

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>… the track that I have on the front stay…

James,

Do you have pictures of Kristy’s forestay available online?

Your description makes me think you may have a 70’s era StreamStay type 
headsail luff rope system.  Do your headsails have hanks attached or a luff 
tape/rope?

If you do have the original twin groove type extrusion over your rod rigging 
forestay it is likely to top and bottom bearings have frozen up preventing it 
from rotating.  If that is the case and you want a similar headsail system I 
recommend you drop into the cnc-list Furler discussion now underway.  Harken 
has a great web site that will have drawings and pictures of their 
forestay/furler products.  There are several other quality furler systems 
available and others here on the cnc-list will be able to make recommendations.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of James 
Nichols via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2016 10:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: James Nichols
Subject: Stus-List Headsail

I am trying to figure out my head sail arrangement.  I don't have self furling, 
I do have rod rigging (probably original, will be thoroughly inspected before I 
put it under stress).

I am guessing that the track that I have on the front stay is there because you 
can't hank directly onto the rod.

My question is, how freely is that track supposed to swivel around the rod? 
Mine seems pretty still, and I would think that isn't a good thing for the rod 
when you change tacks and the track puts the extra rotational stress on the rod.

Thanks for any input.

James
S/V Kristy
1971 C&C 39
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Re: Stus-List winter condensation

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I am down there every other day or maybe third day, so I should catch it before 
it overflows. Good point though – have to watch where the bucket sits.
BTW – this is a new issue for us here on the Chesapeake. The amount of moisture 
below is like 10-20 times what I usually deal with.
Joe
Coquina


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of S Thomas via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2016 1:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: S Thomas
Subject: Re: Stus-List winter condensation

Makes sense to save money, but I would want to find out how to estimate the 
pounds of CaCl to size of bucket ratio.
Nothing like an overflowing bucket of salty water in an untended boat.

Steve Thomas
Port Stanley, ON

- Original Message -
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2016 13:29
Subject: Re: Stus-List winter condensation

Note that Damp-Rid is actually calcium chloride. I am going to buy a big bag of 
it at Home Depot and leave a bucket sitting out.
We will see how well that works.
Joe
Coquina


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Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Cool!
Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Jan 6, 2016 at 2:36 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'll be heading down to Alera this afternoon to drop off my dehumidifier
> and will take the time to undo the dodger and take some pictures of the
> Nameplate.  Since it has been under a dodger or winter cover for most of
> the time, it's in fairly pristine condition.
>
> Tom B
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Chuck,
 After taking closer measurements, I have concluded that the ratio of
blade to handle on the sword is closer to 4 to 1 than the 3 to 1 in my
model.  I will adjust accordingly.

Thanks,
Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Jan 6, 2016 at 4:16 AM, Gary W. Russell 
wrote:

> Chuck,
>  Does your nameplate have an "R" on it?  I can't see any evidence that
> mine had a "+" on it.  I will check the dimensions on the sword.
>
> Thanks,
> Gary
>
> Sent from my iPhone. ~~~_/)~~~
>
> On Jan 6, 2016, at 12:01 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Nice image.  Since you asked, the sword could be longer, and a + should be
> added
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> --
> *From: *"Gary Russell via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"C&C List" 
> *Cc: *"Gary Russell" 
> *Sent: *Tuesday, January 5, 2016 4:50:20 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate
>
> I have created a CAD file of the starboard side nameplate.  I welcome your
> opinions and criticism.  You may see it here:
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQRSP2fYIFmR3dFbllPdXZ6aHc/view?usp=sharing
>
> It's only the starboard side (so far), but all the symbols and characters
> are individual components, so they can easily be re-arranged.  I need to
> check a few dimension on the boat before I send it out for fabrication, but
> it was just too cold here today to bother.
>
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> '90 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 2:59 PM, Gary Russell  wrote:
>
>> Hi Josh,
>>  The dimensions I have are 21-3/16"L x 2"H x 1/4"T.  If using
>> acrylic, I would definitely recommend VHB tape.  It is terrific stuff for
>> acrylic and gelcoat.
>>
>> Gary
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 11:58 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I may have missed the message or dropped the ball last year.  Sorry
>>> folks.
>>>
>>> The one on Ken's boat is aftermarket and is held on with 2 screws, one
>>> at each end.  The way I imagined one being made and installed was that the
>>> original plaque would be ground flush and the new metal plate fitted over
>>> top.  For attachment I felt like welded on studs (in place of screws) that
>>> went through the hull/deck was most favorable.  I don't know any of the
>>> engineering hurdles.  To be honest, an automotive body shop would just use
>>> 3M VHB tape.
>>>
>>> The pictures should be sufficient to create a scale model.  The height
>>> is roughly 2.5 inches.  I'll try to get real measurements asap so that the
>>> scale can be applied to achieve the correct finished size.
>>>
>>> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yUklxR0VXQUd0WjA/edit
>>>
>>> Josh
>>> On Jan 4, 2016 11:24 AM, "david via CnC-List" 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 This topic came up last year and I will put forward the same offer.

 I own / work at a shop that has CNC machining capability and 3D solid
 modeling expertise. We work with solid models every day. My engineer is
 also an enthusiast of 3D printing and last year bought his own printer,
 although I am not sure of the size of it. It is able to print to different
 grades and / or quality of acrylic.

 I would like to offer to produce a solid model at the least. The beauty
 of a model is you can see what it looks like prior to building anything.
 There are lots of manufacturing or production techniques that can be used
 to make these depending on the material one wants to use. From what I
 recall the ones with the raised letter (maybe acrylic) were also "recessed"
 into the cabin. I think the ones on Ken's boat are proud of the surface and
 maybe were never recessed or this was filled up.

 I believe where it left off last time was someone was going to make a
 sketch or more specifically a "rubbing" of the outline so we had at least
 the outer dimensions and scale of the logo and star.

 David Donnelly
 C&C 26 Mistress

 On January 3, 2016 at 10:36 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

 Yeah Gary,

 The old looking pictures are my boat.  The new ones are Ken Heaton's.
 This subject has come up at least twice since I've been a member of the
 list.  This makes the third.  Everyone is pretty convinced that Ken has the
 best nameplate.  All of the 37+'ers seem up for a bulk order of
 nameplates.  If you figure out a solution let us know.

 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 C&C 37+
 Solomons, MD



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>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-Lis

Re: Stus-List Headsail

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

You could have what is called a "tough-luff".  Every one I've seen spins.
You're fine.  Yours probably slides up and down a little too.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jan 6, 2016 1:21 PM, "James Nichols via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I am trying to figure out my head sail arrangement.  I don't have self
> furling, I do have rod rigging (probably original, will be thoroughly
> inspected before I put it under stress).
>
> I am guessing that the track that I have on the front stay is there
> because you can't hank directly onto the rod.
>
> My question is, how freely is that track supposed to swivel around the
> rod? Mine seems pretty still, and I would think that isn't a good thing for
> the rod when you change tacks and the track puts the extra rotational
> stress on the rod.
>
> Thanks for any input.
>
> James
> S/V Kristy
> 1971 C&C 39
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Headsail

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I have a Head Foil on my forestay – twin grooves to handle two sails (put the 
new one up while the old one is up and then dump the old one). It fit pretty 
tightly on the forestay, but I guess it would spin if forced. No furling. The 
sails have rope luffs. 

 

James, if your sails have hanks on them, then I have no idea what you have up 
there.

 

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 6, 2016 4:06 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Headsail

 

You could have what is called a "tough-luff".  Every one I've seen spins.  
You're fine.  Yours probably slides up and down a little too. 

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Jan 6, 2016 1:21 PM, "James Nichols via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I am trying to figure out my head sail arrangement.  I don't have self furling, 
I do have rod rigging (probably original, will be thoroughly inspected before I 
put it under stress). 

 

I am guessing that the track that I have on the front stay is there because you 
can't hank directly onto the rod. 

 

My question is, how freely is that track supposed to swivel around the rod? 
Mine seems pretty still, and I would think that isn't a good thing for the rod 
when you change tacks and the track puts the extra rotational stress on the rod.

 

Thanks for any input.

 

James

S/V Kristy

1971 C&C 39


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Re: Stus-List Headsail

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

It could be an old Hood Seafoil. Basically a rod with twin grooves. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 6, 2016, at 12:20 PM, James Nichols via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am trying to figure out my head sail arrangement.  I don't have self 
> furling, I do have rod rigging (probably original, will be thoroughly 
> inspected before I put it under stress). 
> 
> I am guessing that the track that I have on the front stay is there because 
> you can't hank directly onto the rod. 
> 
> My question is, how freely is that track supposed to swivel around the rod? 
> Mine seems pretty still, and I would think that isn't a good thing for the 
> rod when you change tacks and the track puts the extra rotational stress on 
> the rod.
> 
> Thanks for any input.
> 
> James
> S/V Kristy
> 1971 C&C 39
> ___
> 
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> of page at:
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> 

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Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Beautiful day here on Vashon Island.  High 40's and sunny!  Great 
excuse for a walk down to Alera, for sure!


As promised.  Looks like the paint on the raised portion is all wore 
off.  But aside from that they are in pretty good shape.


Dimensions are 19 3/8" X 2."  Also the bottom edge appears to be 
about  ~1/4' thicker than the top.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/2394120/in/album-72157629350057893/lightbox/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/23849977259/in/album-72157629350057893/lightbox/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/24191723856/in/album-72157629350057893/lightbox/

Tom B



Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
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Re: Stus-List winter condensation

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

One thing to keep in mind is that at some point the surface area of calcium
chloride exposed becomes more important than how much volume/weight of it
you have. I've found a big tub of Damprid will eventually form a solid
layer at the top. At that point all the bulk dry salt under there is doing
you no good. It helps to stir it up / break up the surface scale once in a
while, but more important is how much surface area you have exposed -
instead of one bucket I do many small containers around the boat, mostly in
the cabinets/cupboards which don't have good air flow.

The 4-lb Damprid tubs come with some grayish filler beads in it which are
intended to help determine when the tub is used up. They also sell smaller
packs without the filler beads, useful if you're subdividing Damprid into
multiple containers.

It's $10 for the 4-lb tub:
http://www.amazon.com/DampRid-FG50T-Hi-Capacity-Moisture-Absorber/dp/B0029EGUNG/ref


On Wed, Jan 6, 2016 at 11:53 AM,  wrote:

> -- Forwarded message --
> From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
> To: "'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'" 
> Cc:
> Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2016 18:29:14 +
> Subject: Re: Stus-List winter condensation
>
> Note that Damp-Rid is actually calcium chloride. I am going to buy a big
> bag of it at Home Depot and leave a bucket sitting out.
>
> We will see how well that works.
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bulkhead mounted drop down table

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

You should make the suggestion to follow the lead of YRALIS!



On Sun, Jan 3, 2016 at 6:01 PM, William Walker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Eric,
>   Interesting.  Lake Michigan phrf regs do not contain such an exception
> and state that base handicap "assumes standard hull AND interior".  The
> regs also reference any interior appointments that are modified or
> customized must be fully described in application.  The regs are under
> revision so maybe this will change for lmphrf.  If so, my table is GONE!
> BILL WALKER
> CNC 36
> PENTWATER, MI
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> --
> On Sunday, January 3, 2016 Eric Baumes via CnC-List 
> wrote:
> I have a c&c 34+ and I removed the table for the same reasons as you.
>
> I have had a "temporary" table for the past couple years that we use when
> cruising. I built it on one of these
> http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|7504|2290226|2290231&id=1536893.
> The base is through bolted through the floor and the tube and table are
> removeable.
>
> The table top is currently plywood but I have plans to make a more
> permanant one out of teak or teak veneer. When I get around to this I will
> use two pedestal stands as the table is a little wobbly with only one.
>
> I don't have a pic but I will take one next time I am at board.
>
> In terms of the Rating the YRALIS PHRF Regulations state:
>
> Proper Racing Trim
>
> Yachts shall race as rated with at least all the equipment and furnishings
> supplied as standard by the manufacturer. A yacht that has altered or has
> removed bulkheads, permanently attached furniture, or structural interior
> components shall be considered a custom yacht. Drawers, headliners, cabinet
> and locker doors, steps, ladders, and engine enclosures shall remain in
> place as supplied as standard equipment. If they do not so remain, then the
> yacht shall be considered a custom yacht and rated accordingly. *Passageway
> doors, cushions, dining tables, and carpets are specifically exempted, and
> are alterable or removable provided all safety standards are met.*
> Lifting keels (not designed to be adjusted while racing) must be fixed and
> locked in the lowered position while racing.
>
> You may want to check your local regs.
>
> Eric
>
> S/V Hee Soo
>
>
> On Fri, Jan 1, 2016 at 3:28 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> My 36 XL/kcb was delivered with a relatively massive table bolted to
>> the the cabin sole which had 2 fold down leaves.
>>
>> This table sort of wrapped around the bast so that when the leaves
>> opened, the table surface was centered fore and aft
>> and athwartships so that 4+ people could sit around it although getting
>> our from the curved port settee was difficult.
>>
>> To have any room for racing crew, I removed it years ago since I don't
>> really cruise with the boat.
>>
>> I would like to build or buy a lightweight table that could be mast
>> mounted (preferred) or bulkhead mounted (probably too short in this case)
>> and fold up
>> out of the way when not used. It would be nice to also have folding
>> leaves.
>>
>> It might also be made to be pulled up to the underside of the coach roof
>> while being constrained by the mast when not in use and
>> locked to the cabin cole when in use.
>>
>> I would like it to be relatively light weight in either case.
>>
>> Any photos or ideas from the list on a similar table or a design for one?
>>
>> Charlie Nelson
>> Water Phantom
>> C&C 36 XL/kcb
>>
>> cenel...@aol.com
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
> ___ Email address:
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>
>
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Stus-List Jib sheet

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

The Toronto Boat show is approaching and i'm putting together my list. My jib 
sheets have seen better days so I need to replace them.

Am thinking of going with a single sheet with a ring hitch at the clew because 
my bowlines tend to snag on the baby stay.  Is there any reason NOT to do this??

Also, any recommendations on material? I don't race (this boat), just coastal 
cruising. 

Cheers,
Mike
Atacama 33mkii. 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List winter condensation

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Agree with you about higher moisture this year on the Chesapeake. 
Once the temps stay below 40, it should be less of a problem? But for now, the 
sun warms the air and the moisture condenses on cold surfaces of the boat 
interior. 

I'm reading the other responses, but I'm not sure that DampRid is worth the 
trouble. I'm sure it works, but I doubt it would prevent the droplets forming 
on the cold overhead surfaces. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Joe via CnC-List Della Barba"  
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: "Joe Della Barba"  
Sent: Wednesday, January 6, 2016 2:53:02 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List winter condensation 



I am down there every other day or maybe third day, so I should catch it before 
it overflows. Good point though – have to watch where the bucket sits. 

BTW – this is a new issue for us here on the Chesapeake. The amount of moisture 
below is like 10-20 times what I usually deal with. 

Joe 

Coquina 






From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of S Thomas via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2016 1:39 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: S Thomas 
Subject: Re: Stus-List winter condensation 





Makes sense to save money, but I would want to find out how to estimate the 
pounds of CaCl to size of bucket ratio. 


Nothing like an overflowing bucket of salty water in an untended boat. 





Steve Thomas 


Port Stanley, ON 








- Original Message - 


From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 


To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 


Cc: Della Barba, Joe 


Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2016 13:29 


Subject: Re: Stus-List winter condensation 





Note that Damp-Rid is actually calcium chloride. I am going to buy a big bag of 
it at Home Depot and leave a bucket sitting out. 

We will see how well that works. 
Joe 

Coquina 









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Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Ken, 
I like the last version, best because it looks the cleanest and easiest to 
read. My 2 cents. 


- Original Message -

From: "Ken Heaton via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Ken Heaton"  
Sent: Wednesday, January 6, 2016 5:28:00 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate 

Here are a three different versions I've found online over the years. Sorry 
about the massive links: 

C&C 37+ Elindil - 
http://newimages.yachtworld.com/resize/1/75/57/5427557_20151109151236681_1_XLARGE.jpg?f=/1/75/57/5427557_20151109151236681_1_XLARGE.jpg&w=924&h=693&t=1447113684000
 

C&C 37 XL - La Neige - 
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MvsLCQecBrPsIcgKoJy7A0t-THDEsFhLgU3hfw24YlYaptuc5RsmPWMHKSPXqjHNty_r8tLVnE1gBrPFNW2BBQbhvVWr16-IRYjpNolT9o1BYJJoQihd192JgqQlRPwyZyZc8Vh4Mt6sUGh-Bo_SK7bWkFilvVexvJHeNYrTqdBawgl7mZpSZ--HDdve3xyGaVV2qnM0vltbNhvESdvrATXVw8045mk5W7WTs1Uks_Xm8hUXnsncQuwBQ8TjMetaxwbISPB_0VrGt9MVVckHtsbG-hOIHZ-1P-anRcD2wmkkyM011r_JLlfNGMpwz2W6G_5TJ3qBIuesgeWUldpSk67n6t8AGVBd2nGSUweNw4GGSX17LHFG3EiT_--m-OnuMLLObqFFO9KWmoo8Jw4pxQ5KyghKKgE6d4yvuxmeSbUEXdEQkMzfnpJlPtlHdpTaf_epywVr0vreCLVt2A9Cf7ye7uLuGSenM_0JD3A8yN8rAf7frPGIgXsSvnoeIo0_vons4dXmgUEixE9dCxcQrsWteUmpFhl2eFzk1p6o4eiBCRS4ZmTduwMjiMier_FBi6hS=w600-h182-no
 

C&C 37R - Defiant - 
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YEQK8UgNyEDipkKKjg5c6zxxA95JpR79-qHNL-qHDVF25qFY6irOiJ7GqUiM7BAeZwwDIlOYwtX_9an5VVVzK8QSMywPlmP5Rk8iwADatYN8wLRgeSKjhvZTXFk37Ct8BlQYyPbLYGYiruQb5-SPa1ydbbObt-O8bveeQPbSU6Vh7JU7UhHSvFd36uwQwo42Al2XQUBaJtVCw149qYzbNoivSxmB7vuCUcOFnZWNgmcr7wPLJRiW6Z4QQBzFw6_WMsVJnYUEH6UL6gScA_rqZ25CidJKm0Yh1XNXb924KXX-Cigi8XKn04SXgruSi8oq3fqJJm1nzxnys2ZdrwuqjOafvM1kTPi7oJvIBWsAp5OWlHdI4cg2OGm3yoxo49arynY-ijyCEgzscDTVp0yFjdxRjfUaJr5eXSnl4fCtJcL9w5FIslmFks0CVfO1wqX8XD1pJhkxW3H78zuh53UYqA5_vyBGAbBcYimQwBhkLWu_lr8dtCEjWkLRCFsQVzB92TmBZBwVOOh2WA3MWmCAbMvrjz18SUU4Ievd_-NLZdAZl3aJ3aiJ9tVMSqANK33UGIzz=w600-h450-no
 

Ken H. 



On 6 January 2016 at 05:32, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 




I can't see any evidence on mine of having had a "+" or anything else... I 
think you did a phenomenal job of replicating what was there. I was just 
suggesting that since you're so good then making the name plate match would be 
nice. 

Josh 
On Jan 6, 2016 4:17 AM, "Gary W. Russell via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> wrote: 



Chuck, 
Does your nameplate have an "R" on it? I can't see any evidence that mine had a 
"+" on it. I will check the dimensions on the sword. 

Thanks, 
Gary 

Sent from my iPhone. ~~~_/)~~~ 

On Jan 6, 2016, at 12:01 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 




Nice image. Since you asked, the sword could be longer, and a + should be added 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 


From: "Gary Russell via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
To: "C&C List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
Cc: "Gary Russell" < captnga...@gmail.com > 
Sent: Tuesday, January 5, 2016 4:50:20 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate 

I have created a CAD file of the starboard side nameplate. I welcome your 
opinions and criticism. You may see it here: 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQRSP2fYIFmR3dFbllPdXZ6aHc/view?usp=sharing 

It's only the starboard side (so far), but all the symbols and characters are 
individual components, so they can easily be re-arranged. I need to check a few 
dimension on the boat before I send it out for fabrication, but it was just too 
cold here today to bother. 

Gary 
S/V High Maintenance 
'90 C&C 37 Plus 
East Greenwich, RI, USA 

~~~ _ / ) ~~ 


On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 2:59 PM, Gary Russell < captnga...@gmail.com > wrote: 



Hi Josh, 
The dimensions I have are 21-3/16"L x 2"H x 1/4"T. If using acrylic, I would 
definitely recommend VHB tape. It is terrific stuff for acrylic and gelcoat. 

Gary 

~~~ _ / ) ~~ 


On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 11:58 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 




I may have missed the message or dropped the ball last year. Sorry folks. 

The one on Ken's boat is aftermarket and is held on with 2 screws, one at each 
end. The way I imagined one being made and installed was that the original 
plaque would be ground flush and the new metal plate fitted over top. For 
attachment I felt like welded on studs (in place of screws) that went through 
the hull/deck was most favorable. I don't know any of the engineering hurdles. 
To be honest, an automotive body shop would just use 3M VHB tape. 

The pictures should be sufficient to create a scale model. The height is 
roughly 2.5 inches. I'll try to get real measurements asap so that the scale 
can be applied to achieve the correct finished size. 

https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yUklxR0VXQUd0WjA/edit 


Josh 
On Jan 4, 2016 11:24 AM, "david via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 



This topic came up last year and I will put forward the same offer. 
I own / work at a shop that has CNC machining capability and 3D solid modeling 
expertise. We work w

Re: Stus-List Jib sheet

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

The ring hitch might be extremely difficult to remove at year end...but 
a bowline in a bight might be a better choice if you are going to take the

sheets off at end of season.  Could also use a soft shackle.

If you really tighten up your bowlines I can't see why they would bind 
on the baby stay anymore than any other knot.


Food for thought.


On 1/6/2016 9:32 PM, Michael Crombie via CnC-List wrote:

ring hitch



--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
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Re: Stus-List Jib sheet

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Mike,
If you ever need to cut free a jib sheet, (to deal with a winch override or
other calamity) it is better to have two sheets tied to the clew than just
one continuous sheet with a cow hitch in the middle (or even luggage tagged
to the sail).  If you tie your bowlines with small eyes and long tails, you
won't likely snag your baby stay with the knot.  If you're contemplating the
single sheet alternative, don't put any hardware at the connection point to
the clew as you'll get whacked by it when the sail if flogging and it will
hurt like hell!
Having been a bow guy on a C&C 40 for 10+ years (with a baby stay), I can
testify to the wisdom of having two sheets.
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1975 25 Mk 1

S/V Orion
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Crombie via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 6, 2016 8:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net
Subject: Stus-List Jib sheet


The Toronto Boat show is approaching and i'm putting together my list. My
jib sheets have seen better days so I need to replace them.

Am thinking of going with a single sheet with a ring hitch at the clew
because my bowlines tend to snag on the baby stay.  Is there any reason NOT
to do this??

Also, any recommendations on material? I don't race (this boat), just
coastal cruising. 

Cheers,
Mike
Atacama 33mkii. 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List Jib sheet

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Well stated.


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List  
Date: 2016-01-06  22:40  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Jib sheet 

Mike,
If you ever need to cut free a jib sheet, (to deal with a winch override or
other calamity) it is better to have two sheets tied to the clew than just
one continuous sheet with a cow hitch in the middle (or even luggage tagged
to the sail).  If you tie your bowlines with small eyes and long tails, you
won't likely snag your baby stay with the knot.  If you're contemplating the
single sheet alternative, don't put any hardware at the connection point to
the clew as you'll get whacked by it when the sail if flogging and it will
hurt like hell!
Having been a bow guy on a C&C 40 for 10+ years (with a baby stay), I can
testify to the wisdom of having two sheets.
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1975 25 Mk 1

S/V Orion
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA
Acoustiguardcom

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Re: Stus-List Jib sheet

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Thanks all!!  Always a good call to double check with this list.

I'll stick with separate sheets. 

Mike
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List Jib sheet

[William Walker via CnC-List]

I went with two sheets, each with an eye splice secured with soft shackles to 
Clew of sail.  Absolutely nothing to get hung up on babystay.  Love the 
arrangement.  
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Wednesday, January 6, 2016 Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Mike, If you ever need to cut free a jib sheet, (to deal with a winch override 
or other calamity) it is better to have two sheets tied to the clew than just 
one continuous sheet with a cow hitch in the middle (or even luggage tagged to 
the sail). If you tie your bowlines with small eyes and long tails, you won't 
likely snag your baby stay with the knot. If you're contemplating the single 
sheet alternative, don't put any hardware at the connection point to the clew 
as you'll get whacked by it when the sail if flogging and it will hurt like 
hell! Having been a bow guy on a C&C 40 for 10+ years (with a baby stay), I can 
testify to the wisdom of having two sheets. Chuck Gilchrest Half Magic 1975 25 
Mk 1 S/V Orion 1983 35 Landfall Padanaram, MA 

-Original Message- From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael Crombie via 
CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, January 6, 2016 8:32 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: 
mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net Subject: Stus-List Jib sheet The Toronto Boat show 
is approaching and i'm putting together my list. My jib sheets have seen better 
days so I need to replace them. Am thinking of going with a single sheet with a 
ring hitch at the clew because my bowlines tend to snag on the baby stay. Is 
there any reason NOT to do this?? Also, any recommendations on material? I 
don't race (this boat), just coastal cruising. Cheers, Mike Atacama 33mkii. 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network. Envoyé sans fil 
par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell. 
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Re: Stus-List Wally back

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Wally, 
You have been silent for too long yet, living your dream in Mexico/Baja, you 
remain a legend and are missed like Harrison Ford from a Star Wars movie. 
Bit of advice if you have a son; don't give him a hug if he carries a "Light 
Saber" Just sayin. 

Welcome back. Happy holidays all 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Wally Bryant via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Wally Bryant"  
Sent: Sunday, January 3, 2016 4:23:28 PM 
Subject: Stus-List 818 messages... 

Hey, Happy Holidays. Yes, I've been AWOL. I've had messages pile up, 
but 818 on this list has to be a record. I'll do a quick scan and see 
if I have anything to add. 

2015 was a weird year, with surgeries and pregnant women and lots of 
tequila and market corrections and stuff. I'm hoping 2016 will be 
better, although in retrospect I'm still living a life most only dream of. 

Wal 

s/v Stella Blue 
www.wbryant.com 

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Re: Stus-List Jib sheet

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Mike,
As a sheet material for cruising, you're not going to go wrong with a
polyester double braid.  Higher tech ropes (Technora, Spectra, Dyneema,
Vectran) tend to have lower stretch, but will be stiffer and tend to take a
"set" around a winch which can lead to tangles and twists in the rope when
you tack.  If you're not racing (and even if you are, you're constantly
trimming and easing the sail)  the low stretch aspect of the sheet material
is insignificant compared to how much the rope can get hockled and  tangled
up in the cockpit when you're trying to furl the jib.  A rope with a good
hand, not terribly slippery on a winch drum, and torsion free beats the heck
out of bird's nest of twisted line in the cockpit.  Talk to the folks at
Fogh Marine, Dock Shoppe, or stop by the Western Marine/Transat booth at the
show to get a  recommendation on a good quality sheet line for your boat.
I'd make a recommendation myself but it wouldn't be terribly objective
And let us know all about the show after you go!
Cheers,
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1975 25 Mk 1

S/V Orion
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Crombie via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 6, 2016 9:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List Jib sheet

Thanks all!!  Always a good call to double check with this list.

I'll stick with separate sheets. 

Mike
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List Jib sheet

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I also have double sheets with eyes and soft shackles.  Sail zips through
the foretriangle with no hanging up on the shrouds.  Highly recommended.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Jan 6, 2016 at 8:56 PM, William Walker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I went with two sheets, each with an eye splice secured with soft shackles
> to Clew of sail.  Absolutely nothing to get hung up on babystay.  Love the
> arrangement.
> Bill Walker
> CnC 36
> Pentwater, Mi
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> --
> On Wednesday, January 6, 2016 Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Mike, If you ever need to cut free a jib sheet, (to deal with a winch
> override or other calamity) it is better to have two sheets tied to the
> clew than just one continuous sheet with a cow hitch in the middle (or even
> luggage tagged to the sail). If you tie your bowlines with small eyes and
> long tails, you won't likely snag your baby stay with the knot. If you're
> contemplating the single sheet alternative, don't put any hardware at the
> connection point to the clew as you'll get whacked by it when the sail if
> flogging and it will hurt like hell! Having been a bow guy on a C&C 40 for
> 10+ years (with a baby stay), I can testify to the wisdom of having two
> sheets. Chuck Gilchrest Half Magic 1975 25 Mk 1 S/V Orion 1983 35 Landfall
> Padanaram, MA
> -Original Message- From: CnC-List [
> mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On
> Behalf Of Michael Crombie via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, January 6, 2016
> 8:32 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net
> Subject: Stus-List Jib sheet The Toronto Boat show is approaching and i'm
> putting together my list. My jib sheets have seen better days so I need to
> replace them. Am thinking of going with a single sheet with a ring hitch at
> the clew because my bowlines tend to snag on the baby stay. Is there any
> reason NOT to do this?? Also, any recommendations on material? I don't race
> (this boat), just coastal cruising. Cheers, Mike Atacama 33mkii. Sent
> wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network. Envoyé sans fil
> par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
> ___ Email address:
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> unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
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> unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
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>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Tom,
 Wow, your nameplates are in really good shape.  They don't look like
acrylic.  It's obviously a material that stands up better.  I have made
some improvements to my model since yesterday and now includes the "R".
See:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQRSP2fYIFmN21SUk9qZTVleVE/view?usp=sharing

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
'90 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Jan 6, 2016 at 5:38 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Beautiful day here on Vashon Island.  High 40's and sunny!  Great excuse
> for a walk down to Alera, for sure!
>
> As promised.  Looks like the paint on the raised portion is all wore off.
> But aside from that they are in pretty good shape.
>
> Dimensions are 19 3/8" X 2."  Also the bottom edge appears to be about
> ~1/4' thicker than the top.
>
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/2394120/in/album-72157629350057893/lightbox/
>
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/23849977259/in/album-72157629350057893/lightbox/
>
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/24191723856/in/album-72157629350057893/lightbox/
>
> Tom B
>
> 
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
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>
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>
>
>
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