Re: Stus-List C&C sold..

[Bill Coleman]

The running joke in the field is, 'The way to make a small fortune is to
take a large fortune and start a boat building business.'

 

Bill 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of William
Hall
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2013 4:03 PM
To: cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C sold..

 

And here's hoping they can be one of the few to do so without losing too
much money!

 

On Thu, Sep 5, 2013 at 4:00 PM, Paul Baker  wrote:

Good luck to them, I'm sure they'll continue to produce some lovely boats
that I'll never be able to afford :)


___
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-- 
William D. Hall, Ph.D.
203 653 2886 (o)
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu 

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Re: Stus-List replacing steaming light Now Mast Wiring

[Prime Interest]

Awhile back I acquired a Hella unit ( 8504 ) when it was on sale for an
exceptional price but not yet installed. Significantly larger than what it
is replacing but seems to be a quality piece of kit.

 

Prior to launch next year I'll be re-wiring the mast and was looking for
comment on using conduit ( or not ) or some other method to affix the bundle
to reduce mast noise. I think the mast section has a slot running up the
interior which seems like it might be used at least part way up the mast. 

 

Let's say you're using conduit - how do you account for wires to the
foredeck/steaming light? Two sections of a single run with a gap at the
light .. two separate conduits? Maybe the steaming light wire outside but
strapped to the conduit.

 

Typical bundle of wires - masthead nav lights ( 5-wires as it has
all-around, tri-light, strobe and light for Windex ), VHF ( using LMR 400 UF
coax ), masthead instruments, foredeck/steaming.

 

This is for a 1982 Landfall 38. 3 internal halyards - one for an inner
forestay which might give us an obstacle on the way up if we're going up the
front of the mast but maybe the back of the mast is preferred in any case.
Double spreader so two compression posts to get past - running back-stay
fittings but I don't think there are compression posts. And the top plate of
the mast is welded on so have to work through the hole from the masthead
instruments.

 

 

ed

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
dre...@gmail.com
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2013 1:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing steaming old light

 

Dennis,

 

Thanks for the info.  Another question:Are
you happy with the Aquasignal?I was deciding between the Forespar ML-2,
Hella 8505, and the AquaSignal Series 25.   I  decided on the Hella based on
some bad reviews I found online for the other two.   The Forespar had
reports of top lens falling out while tacking and the AquaSignal was stated
as not having any spray protection for the deck light bulb and so bulbs
corroded and died prematurely.   

 

 

-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL 

 

On Sep 5, 2013, at 10:49 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:





Message: 10
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2013 07:49:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Dennis C." <  capt...@yahoo.com>
To: "  cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing steaming old light
Message-ID:
  <1378392591.1503.

yahoomail...@web121903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Paul,

If it is like the one on Touche's mast, I abandoned it.? It was that same
Perko all around light mounted on a metal "donut" welded to the mast.? I
installed an Aquasignal Series 25 combo steaming/foredeck light a bit above
the old fixture and dropped new wires.? 

I'm guessing the Aquasignal would fit over and hide the existing donut once
you remove the Perko light if you wanted to mount it in the same spot.? You
could use the existing wires to pull the new wires.

On a side note, Touche's pole topping lift exited another of those "donut"
things above the steaming light.? I have also abandoned that and installed
an exit box with sheave for the topping lift.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




 

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Re: Stus-List C&C sold..

[Della Barba, Joe]

I always fear that C&C has not much in the way of a customer base anymore. To 
me, the magic of C&C was literally coming back from a 2 week cruise, dumping 
the dinghy off, grabbing a few more people, and going out to win a race.

Now I think cruisers want a BenHunCat and racers want some stripped out carbon 
fantastic that  looks as appealing as a storm drain to spend the night in.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2013 9:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C sold..

The running joke in the field is, 'The way to make a small fortune is to take a 
large fortune and start a boat building business.'

Bill

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of William Hall
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2013 4:03 PM
To: cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C sold..

And here's hoping they can be one of the few to do so without losing too much 
money!

On Thu, Sep 5, 2013 at 4:00 PM, Paul Baker 
mailto:pauljba...@shaw.ca>> wrote:
Good luck to them, I'm sure they'll continue to produce some lovely boats that 
I'll never be able to afford :)


___
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com



--
William D. Hall, Ph.D.
203 653 2886 (o)
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List C&C sold..

[Hoyt, Mike]

Joe
 
The 115 wins quite frequently and has a fabulous interior!
 
You can buy one of those new but would have to call it a Tartan 115 now
...
 
Mike
 
 



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2013 11:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C sold..



I always fear that C&C has not much in the way of a customer base
anymore. To me, the magic of C&C was literally coming back from a 2 week
cruise, dumping the dinghy off, grabbing a few more people, and going
out to win a race.

 

Now I think cruisers want a BenHunCat and racers want some stripped out
carbon fantastic that  looks as appealing as a storm drain to spend the
night in.

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Coleman
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2013 9:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C sold..

 

The running joke in the field is, 'The way to make a small fortune is to
take a large fortune and start a boat building business.'

 

Bill 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
William Hall
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2013 4:03 PM
To: cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C sold..

 

And here's hoping they can be one of the few to do so without losing too
much money!

 

On Thu, Sep 5, 2013 at 4:00 PM, Paul Baker  wrote:

Good luck to them, I'm sure they'll continue to produce some lovely
boats that I'll never be able to afford :)


___
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com





 

-- 
William D. Hall, Ph.D.
203 653 2886 (o)
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu 

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Re: Stus-List C&C sold..

[Della Barba, Joe]

No doubt the 115 is what we all like in a C&C, but how many did they sell?
Too bad the "new" C&C can't keep it :(
(btw, I would take one!)

Joe Della Barba

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2013 10:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C sold..

Joe

The 115 wins quite frequently and has a fabulous interior!

You can buy one of those new but would have to call it a Tartan 115 now ...

Mike




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2013 11:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C sold..
I always fear that C&C has not much in the way of a customer base anymore. To 
me, the magic of C&C was literally coming back from a 2 week cruise, dumping 
the dinghy off, grabbing a few more people, and going out to win a race.

Now I think cruisers want a BenHunCat and racers want some stripped out carbon 
fantastic that  looks as appealing as a storm drain to spend the night in.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2013 9:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C sold..

The running joke in the field is, 'The way to make a small fortune is to take a 
large fortune and start a boat building business.'

Bill

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of William Hall
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2013 4:03 PM
To: cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C sold..

And here's hoping they can be one of the few to do so without losing too much 
money!

On Thu, Sep 5, 2013 at 4:00 PM, Paul Baker 
mailto:pauljba...@shaw.ca>> wrote:
Good luck to them, I'm sure they'll continue to produce some lovely boats that 
I'll never be able to afford :)


___
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com



--
William D. Hall, Ph.D.
203 653 2886 (o)
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List C&C sold..

[Hoyt, Mike]

Not sure Joe.  85 according to the class site but no idea when that was
updated.  There are three at RNSYS where I sail on Koobalibra.
 
I wonder how many J120 there are?  That is a very popular boat and more
indicative of current day fleet sizes than the designs of the 70s I
would think.
 
Mike



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2013 11:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C sold..



No doubt the 115 is what we all like in a C&C, but how many did they
sell?

Too bad the "new" C&C can't keep it L

(btw, I would take one!)

 

Joe Della Barba

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2013 10:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C sold..

 

Joe

 

The 115 wins quite frequently and has a fabulous interior!

 

You can buy one of those new but would have to call it a Tartan 115 now
...

 

Mike

 

 

 



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2013 11:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C sold..

I always fear that C&C has not much in the way of a customer base
anymore. To me, the magic of C&C was literally coming back from a 2 week
cruise, dumping the dinghy off, grabbing a few more people, and going
out to win a race.

 

Now I think cruisers want a BenHunCat and racers want some stripped out
carbon fantastic that  looks as appealing as a storm drain to spend the
night in.

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Coleman
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2013 9:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C sold..

 

The running joke in the field is, 'The way to make a small fortune is to
take a large fortune and start a boat building business.'

 

Bill 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
William Hall
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2013 4:03 PM
To: cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C sold..

 

And here's hoping they can be one of the few to do so without losing too
much money!

 

On Thu, Sep 5, 2013 at 4:00 PM, Paul Baker  wrote:

Good luck to them, I'm sure they'll continue to produce some lovely
boats that I'll never be able to afford :)


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com





 

-- 
William D. Hall, Ph.D.
203 653 2886 (o)
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu 

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Re: Stus-List replacing steaming light Now Mast Wiring

[Gary Nylander]

I used the wire tie method. Strap your wires together with zip ties every 
couple of feet - three of them at angles to each other. Leave the tails on. The 
tails keep the wires from clanging and you can drop a wire off at any place you 
need, such as the steaming light. Plus you have no problem getting around the 
compression posts.

Gary
30-1
  - Original Message - 
  From: Prime Interest 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Friday, September 06, 2013 10:27 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing steaming light Now Mast Wiring


  Awhile back I acquired a Hella unit ( 8504 ) when it was on sale for an 
exceptional price but not yet installed. Significantly larger than what it is 
replacing but seems to be a quality piece of kit.

   

  Prior to launch next year I'll be re-wiring the mast and was looking for 
comment on using conduit ( or not ) or some other method to affix the bundle to 
reduce mast noise. I think the mast section has a slot running up the interior 
which seems like it might be used at least part way up the mast. 

   

  Let's say you're using conduit - how do you account for wires to the 
foredeck/steaming light? Two sections of a single run with a gap at the light 
.. two separate conduits? Maybe the steaming light wire outside but strapped to 
the conduit.

   

  Typical bundle of wires - masthead nav lights ( 5-wires as it has all-around, 
tri-light, strobe and light for Windex ), VHF ( using LMR 400 UF coax ), 
masthead instruments, foredeck/steaming.

   

  This is for a 1982 Landfall 38. 3 internal halyards - one for an inner 
forestay which might give us an obstacle on the way up if we're going up the 
front of the mast but maybe the back of the mast is preferred in any case. 
Double spreader so two compression posts to get past - running back-stay 
fittings but I don't think there are compression posts. And the top plate of 
the mast is welded on so have to work through the hole from the masthead 
instruments.

   

   

  ed

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
dre...@gmail.com
  Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2013 1:57 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing steaming old light

   

  Dennis,

   

  Thanks for the info.  Another question:Are 
you happy with the Aquasignal?I was deciding between the Forespar ML-2, 
Hella 8505, and the AquaSignal Series 25.   I  decided on the Hella based on 
some bad reviews I found online for the other two.   The Forespar had reports 
of top lens falling out while tacking and the AquaSignal was stated as not 
having any spray protection for the deck light bulb and so bulbs corroded and 
died prematurely.   

   

   

  -
  Paul E.
  1979 C&C 29 Mk1
  S/V Johanna Rose
  Carrabelle, FL 

   

  On Sep 5, 2013, at 10:49 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:





  Message: 10
  Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2013 07:49:51 -0700 (PDT)
  From: "Dennis C." 
  To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing steaming old light
  Message-ID:
<1378392591.1503.yahoomail...@web121903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

  Paul,

  If it is like the one on Touche's mast, I abandoned it.? It was that same 
Perko all around light mounted on a metal "donut" welded to the mast.? I 
installed an Aquasignal Series 25 combo steaming/foredeck light a bit above the 
old fixture and dropped new wires.? 

  I'm guessing the Aquasignal would fit over and hide the existing donut once 
you remove the Perko light if you wanted to mount it in the same spot.? You 
could use the existing wires to pull the new wires.

  On a side note, Touche's pole topping lift exited another of those "donut" 
things above the steaming light.? I have also abandoned that and installed an 
exit box with sheave for the topping lift.

  Dennis C.
  Touche' 35-1 #83
  Mandeville, LA




   



--


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Re: Stus-List Best Navigation app for android

[J.R. Farrar]

I’ve gone through a lot of these myself. Check out memory-map and US&Canada 
(navionics) if you haven’t already.

 

When I’ve done the longer trips now I use a Samsung galaxy tab 10” with a 
leather case jammed in on my companion way hatch. Screen is large enough to see 
and I have been using the navionics. The Navionics lacks pretty much everything 
BUT a really good chart plotter.  The memory-map is new to be but I’m liking it 
so far…lots more features.

 

I use some other apps on my Galaxy S4 and the tablet for racing. I like 
sailracer.net the best.  

 

 

J.R. Farrar

Bella Ravello - C&C 33 mkii

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Terry
Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2013 1:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Best Navigation app for android

 

Hello, I am looking for the best full-featured navigation app for an Samsung-S4 
smartphone with the Android operating system. Any suggestions from users?

 

Thanks...

 

Terry Johnson
S/V Ozymandias
E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
Website: www.tj622.com

  _  

 

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Stus-List NE Rendezvous

[Andrew Burton]

Reaching to Block from Newport. That never happens. I'd like to compliment the 
organizers. This is really above and beyond. Sailing next to another 40 called 
Double Black. That really is a pretty boat. It's good to have such nice scenery 
to gaze at!
Andy
Peregrine
C&C 40

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
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Re: Stus-List replacing steaming old light

[Marek Dziedzic]

Or install a LED light instead (I imagine that the problem is with the halogen 
bulb for the deck light). The replacement bulb would cost around $14 (1.5W) or 
$24 (3W). And the house battery make like you more, as a bonus.

Marek

--

Message: 3
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2013 13:24:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: John McKay 
To: "Dennis C." , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"

Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing steaming old light
Message-ID:
<1378412655.73857.yahoomail...@web140002.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I installed an aquasignal and you have to be very careful you do not touch the 
bulb with your bare hands. I was up the mast a second time this year to replace 
the bulb as it burned out quickly.  
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Re: Stus-List NE Rendezvous

[Tim Goodyear]

I think we are technically running from Branford to Block, but with 5 knots it 
is upwind (a little).  Expect the wind to ease then go South.

Tim
Mojito 

On Sep 6, 2013, at 12:57 PM, Andrew Burton  wrote:

> Reaching to Block from Newport. That never happens. I'd like to compliment 
> the organizers. This is really above and beyond. Sailing next to another 40 
> called Double Black. That really is a pretty boat. It's good to have such 
> nice scenery to gaze at!
> Andy
> Peregrine
> C&C 40
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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Re: Stus-List replacing steaming old light

[Wally Bryant]

 Dennis  wrote:

Yup, can happen.  Halogen bulbs burn hotter and have higher pressures inside.  
The oils from your skin can cause uneven heating of the glass which may cause 
the bulb to rupture.


Yup, I put on latex gloves when changing a Halogen light.  (I keep the 
chemical resistant blue Nitrile gloves in a special place these days, 
since even latex gloves are expensive and hard to find down here.)   I 
dunno about Xenon, but put them in the same category.


Following the thread -- I don't know why one would want to replace a 
steaming light with an LED, unless it's cheaper.  If you're steaming the 
alternator is running.  What's an amp or two between friends?   FWIW, I 
spent money on LEDs back when they were *really* expensive, and have 
them only for the Tri-Color and the Anchor light.


Here is some historical information:  The anchor light was made by 
'imtra' and was the only 'warm' light available at that time in 
history.  It cost $33.  It has been well used and has never failed.   
The Tri-Color LED bulb was made by 'Dr. LED' and cost $51 at the time.  
I was warned by many people that those bulbs had a reputation for 
failure, but bought it anyway because it was the only thing around.   I 
have used it quite a bit, and have often left it on all day due to being 
tired or distracted, and can honestly say that it has been worked and 
been wet.  Still works. Whew.


Of course I did an LED project on my interior, but that's a different story.

Wal


--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Best Navigation app for android

[Peter Fell]

I’m using the Navionics on both my iphone and my Galaxy Note 10.1. No real 
complaints so far. Used the iphone mostly as I’m working on a steering pedestal 
mount for the Samsung (I’m thinking of adapting some stanchion / rail parts to 
mount a bent u-shaped tube frame around the sides and top of a wood or 
StarBoard tray that would hold and clamp onto the tablet. The whole affair 
would clamp onto the pedestal guard and be adjustable for angle. My tablet is 
already in an Otterbox case, which while not waterproof, is pretty substantial. 
I will have to rig up a sunshade as well.

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
C&C 27 MkIII
... soon to be renamed

From: J.R. Farrar 
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2013 8:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Best Navigation app for android

I’ve gone through a lot of these myself. Check out memory-map and US&Canada 
(navionics) if you haven’t already.

 

When I’ve done the longer trips now I use a Samsung galaxy tab 10” with a 
leather case jammed in on my companion way hatch. Screen is large enough to see 
and I have been using the navionics. The Navionics lacks pretty much everything 
BUT a really good chart plotter.  The memory-map is new to be but I’m liking it 
so far…lots more features.

 

I use some other apps on my Galaxy S4 and the tablet for racing. I like 
sailracer.net the best.  

 

 

J.R. Farrar

Bella Ravello - C&C 33 mkii

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Terry
Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2013 1:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Best Navigation app for android

 

Hello, I am looking for the best full-featured navigation app for an Samsung-S4 
smartphone with the Android operating system. Any suggestions from users?

 

Thanks...

 

Terry Johnson
S/V Ozymandias
E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
Website: www.tj622.com




 




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Re: Stus-List Salon Portlight Window Replacement

[Andrew Burton]

>From what I've gleaned on this and other forums, you should never use a 
>silicone adhesive. And 52,000,000 should never be used if you ever want to 
>remove the item in the future.
Andy
1981 C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Sep 6, 2013, at 17:22, Jerome Tauber  wrote:

> I replaced the windows on my C&C 29 -2 which are similar. Much has been 
> written on this topic, especially the choice of sealants (soft or rigid 
> polyurethanes).  It is a manageable job.   We used a technique running two 
> lines (genoa sheets) across the roof through both genoa tracks and using the 
> winches to apply pressure to wooden planks on the windows.   The old glue 
> must be carefully and thoroughly removed.   Some people claim the windows add 
> structural support and insist on a rigid installation using  
> Polyurethane glues (sikaflex) while others believe  a silicon adhesive 
> sealant such as 3M 5200 or boat life boat seal allow flex and better water 
> sealing.   I had the windows custom made and laser cut for a reasonable 
> price.   Since one edge is beveled the windows are not interchangeable.  The 
> bottom line is the 40 is a great classic and I would not let replacing the 
> cabin windows be a deal breaker.  Indeed it will enhance the boat.  Jerome 
> Tauber. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Sep 6, 2013, at 4:52 PM, Tom Lynch  wrote:
> 
>> I'm considering the purchase of a 1981 C&C 40.  One of the salon portlight 
>> windows is cracked and needs to be replaced.  I'm wondering if anyone has 
>> completed this type of repair and what the level of effort is for a DIY 
>> project and / or what the costs involved to have the windows replaced? 
>> 
>> The owner is selling the boat as is and I'm trying to get a handle on the 
>> value considering the items that need to be fixed and or replaced. 
>> 
>> Any thoughts will be much appreciated. 
>> 
>> Thanks. 
>> Tom L - Potential C&C owner. 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
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Re: Stus-List Salon Portlight Window Replacement

[Jerome Tauber]

 As I remarked - there is much debate on the best adhesives to use.   I would 
not rule out 5200 as you want a permanent installation.   5200 offers, good 
adhesion and excellent water seal.  However, there is much advice to use a 
rigid glue so that the windows become part of the structure of the boat.  In my 
view either would be good for coastal cruising - though a rigid installation is 
probably the better but more difficult choice.   Just my opinion.   I used boat 
life boat seal and never had a problem with it.   Use a gun though and a 
liberal  application.   Jerry Tauber  

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Andrew Burton 
To: cnc-list 
Sent: Fri, Sep 6, 2013 5:28 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Salon Portlight Window Replacement


>From what I've gleaned on this and other forums, you should never use a 
>silicone 
adhesive. And 52,000,000 should never be used if you ever want to remove the 
item in the future.
Andy
1981 C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Sep 6, 2013, at 17:22, Jerome Tauber  wrote:

> I replaced the windows on my C&C 29 -2 which are similar. Much has been 
written on this topic, especially the choice of sealants (soft or rigid 
polyurethanes).  It is a manageable job.   We used a technique running two 
lines 
(genoa sheets) across the roof through both genoa tracks and using the winches 
to apply pressure to wooden planks on the windows.   The old glue must be 
carefully and thoroughly removed.   Some people claim the windows add 
structural 
support and insist on a rigid installation using  
> Polyurethane glues (sikaflex) while others believe  a silicon adhesive 
> sealant 
such as 3M 5200 or boat life boat seal allow flex and better water sealing.   I 
had the windows custom made and laser cut for a reasonable price.   Since one 
edge is beveled the windows are not interchangeable.  The bottom line is the 40 
is a great classic and I would not let replacing the cabin windows be a deal 
breaker.  Indeed it will enhance the boat.  Jerome Tauber. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Sep 6, 2013, at 4:52 PM, Tom Lynch  wrote:
> 
>> I'm considering the purchase of a 1981 C&C 40.  One of the salon portlight 
windows is cracked and needs to be replaced.  I'm wondering if anyone has 
completed this type of repair and what the level of effort is for a DIY project 
and / or what the costs involved to have the windows replaced? 
>> 
>> The owner is selling the boat as is and I'm trying to get a handle on the 
value considering the items that need to be fixed and or replaced. 
>> 
>> Any thoughts will be much appreciated. 
>> 
>> Thanks. 
>> Tom L - Potential C&C owner. 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
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Re: Stus-List Salon Portlight Window Replacement

[Bill Bina]

  
  
The way to find partial sheets is to
  shop among places that do plastic fabrication. They always have
  pieces left over from jobs that they usually sell at a deep
  discount, especially for particular tints that they feel may not
  be easy to unload. The leftovers obviously vary from small to
  quite large, and you take what you can find. What they have
  available also changes daily, so a place where you strike out on
  Tuesday, may be the jackpot on Friday. Being there in person is
  more likely to result in success than casual phone checking. I
  usually start by calling a few prospective places and feeling them
  out as to the likelyhood they might have what I want. Then I go to
  the ones who sounded the most promising. Two very important
  considerations when choosing a piece of plastic. Is it UV treated?
  If not, you don't want it regardless of price. The other thing is
  that CAST acrylic is both stronger and optically clearer and
  flatter than the cheaper extruded stuff. For thinner stuff, you
  may have to settle for extruded, but it's worth the effort to try
  and find cast if at all possible. It really is nicer to look
  through. 
  
  Can you tell I've been through this a few times? LOL.
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 9/6/2013 5:07 PM, LKL Architects wrote:


  
  
  
  Tom,
   
  Going through the same
  thing on my 85 LF 39.  Have discovered the best replacement is
  3/8" polybicarbonate tinted to a bronze color.  Smoked grey is
  another option.  The problem is that anything tinted and 3/8"
  thick is hard to find and most suppliers require you buy a
  whole sheet.  Not sure where you are, but I found a source in
  Houston.  Let me know if you are interested.
   
  Lloyd Lippe
  Finesse 85LF39
  Rockport, Texas
  


  


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Stus-List Salon Portlight Window Replacement

[Tom Lynch]

I'm considering the purchase of a 1981 C&C 40.  One of the salon portlight
windows is cracked and needs to be replaced.  I'm wondering if anyone has
completed this type of repair and what the level of effort is for a DIY
project and / or what the costs involved to have the windows replaced?

The owner is selling the boat as is and I'm trying to get a handle on the
value considering the items that need to be fixed and or replaced.

Any thoughts will be much appreciated.

Thanks.
Tom L - Potential C&C owner.
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Re: Stus-List Salon Portlight Window Replacement

[Jerome Tauber]

I replaced the windows on my C&C 29 -2 which are similar. Much has been written 
on this topic, especially the choice of sealants (soft or rigid polyurethanes). 
 It is a manageable job.   We used a technique running two lines (genoa sheets) 
across the roof through both genoa tracks and using the winches to apply 
pressure to wooden planks on the windows.   The old glue must be carefully and 
thoroughly removed.   Some people claim the windows add structural support and 
insist on a rigid installation using  
Polyurethane glues (sikaflex) while others believe  a silicon adhesive sealant 
such as 3M 5200 or boat life boat seal allow flex and better water sealing.   I 
had the windows custom made and laser cut for a reasonable price.   Since one 
edge is beveled the windows are not interchangeable.  The bottom line is the 40 
is a great classic and I would not let replacing the cabin windows be a deal 
breaker.  Indeed it will enhance the boat.  Jerome Tauber. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 6, 2013, at 4:52 PM, Tom Lynch  wrote:

> I'm considering the purchase of a 1981 C&C 40.  One of the salon portlight 
> windows is cracked and needs to be replaced.  I'm wondering if anyone has 
> completed this type of repair and what the level of effort is for a DIY 
> project and / or what the costs involved to have the windows replaced? 
> 
> The owner is selling the boat as is and I'm trying to get a handle on the 
> value considering the items that need to be fixed and or replaced. 
> 
> Any thoughts will be much appreciated. 
> 
> Thanks. 
> Tom L - Potential C&C owner. 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Salon Portlight Window Replacement

[Joel Aronson]

Try interstate plastics.

Joel Aronson


On Sep 6, 2013, at 5:50 PM, Bill Bina  wrote:

 The way to find partial sheets is to shop among places that do plastic
fabrication. They always have pieces left over from jobs that they usually
sell at a deep discount, especially for particular tints that they feel may
not be easy to unload. The leftovers obviously vary from small to quite
large, and you take what you can find. What they have available also
changes daily, so a place where you strike out on Tuesday, may be the
jackpot on Friday. Being there in person is more likely to result in
success than casual phone checking. I usually start by calling a few
prospective places and feeling them out as to the likelyhood they might
have what I want. Then I go to the ones who sounded the most promising. Two
very important considerations when choosing a piece of plastic. Is it UV
treated? If not, you don't want it regardless of price. The other thing is
that CAST acrylic is both stronger and optically clearer and flatter than
the cheaper extruded stuff. For thinner stuff, you may have to settle for
extruded, but it's worth the effort to try and find cast if at all
possible. It really is nicer to look through.

Can you tell I've been through this a few times? LOL.

Bill Bina

On 9/6/2013 5:07 PM, LKL Architects wrote:

  Tom,

Going through the same thing on my 85 LF 39.  Have discovered the best
replacement is 3/8" polybicarbonate tinted to a bronze color.  Smoked grey
is another option.  The problem is that anything tinted and 3/8" thick is
hard to find and most suppliers require you buy a whole sheet.  Not sure
where you are, but I found a source in Houston.  Let me know if you are
interested.

Lloyd Lippe
Finesse 85LF39
Rockport, Texas


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Re: Stus-List Salon Portlight Window Replacement

[LKL Architects]

Tom,

Going through the same thing on my 85 LF 39.  Have discovered the best 
replacement is 3/8" polybicarbonate tinted to a bronze color.  Smoked grey is 
another option.  The problem is that anything tinted and 3/8" thick is hard to 
find and most suppliers require you buy a whole sheet.  Not sure where you are, 
but I found a source in Houston.  Let me know if you are interested.

Lloyd Lippe
Finesse 85LF39
Rockport, Texas
  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Lynch 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Friday, September 06, 2013 3:52 PM
  Subject: Stus-List Salon Portlight Window Replacement


  I'm considering the purchase of a 1981 C&C 40.  One of the salon portlight 
windows is cracked and needs to be replaced.  I'm wondering if anyone has 
completed this type of repair and what the level of effort is for a DIY project 
and / or what the costs involved to have the windows replaced? 


  The owner is selling the boat as is and I'm trying to get a handle on the 
value considering the items that need to be fixed and or replaced. 


  Any thoughts will be much appreciated. 


  Thanks. 
  Tom L - Potential C&C owner. 







--


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Re: Stus-List Salon Portlight Window Replacement

[Alan Bergen]

Thomas: 

Cast acrylic is a better choice than polycarbonate (which scratches easily). 
You didn't tell us where you're located. In Portland, OR, MultiCraft Plastics 
cut a piece of 12" X 72" cast acrylic for me. I used the old window and a 
router with a pattern bit to cut a new one. The acrylic cost about $110. I used 
Plexus for the installation. Read the descriptions at www.cncphotoalbum.com. 


Alan Bergen 
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 


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Re: Stus-List Salon Portlight Window Replacement

[Bill Bina]

  
  
Adhesives are science, not speculation.
  3m specifically says 5200 is not suitable for this application.
  
  Limitations: 
  (continued)
  - 3M™ Marine
Adhesive/Sealant 5200 is not recommended for the installation of
  glass, polycarbonate or
acrylic windows that are not also mechanically fastened
  with a system designed by
the manufacturer. Inconsistent adhesion of these
  unprimed substrates,
specific design of the window, and movement due to thermal
  expansion and flexing, may
cause application failure. It is strongly recommended
  that the customer contact
the window/port light/hatch manufacturer for
  recommendations on proper sealing procedure
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 9/6/2013 5:37 PM, Jerome Tauber wrote:


   As I remarked - there is much debate on the best
adhesives to use.   I would not rule out 5200 as you want a
permanent installation.   5200 offers, good adhesion and
excellent water seal.  However, there is much advice to use
a rigid glue so that the windows become part of the
structure of the boat.  In my view either would be good for
coastal cruising - though a rigid installation is probably
the better but more difficult choice.   Just my opinion.   I
used boat life boat seal and never had a problem with it.  
Use a gun though and a liberal  application.   Jerry Tauber 

  



  


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Re: Stus-List replacing steaming light Now Mast Wiring

[Jim Reinardy]

On my old Catalina, I did a project like this and used foam pipe insulation 
around the wires.  Since it is in 3 foot sections, it's easy to drop a wire 
off.  It also nicely protected the wires and removed any chance of noise.  I 
took the mast down several years later to inspect and found that it had held up 
very well.  I would not hesitate to use this method again.

Regards,

Jim Reinardy
C&C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 6, 2013, at 10:01 AM, "Gary Nylander"  wrote:

> I used the wire tie method. Strap your wires together with zip ties every 
> couple of feet - three of them at angles to each other. Leave the tails on. 
> The tails keep the wires from clanging and you can drop a wire off at any 
> place you need, such as the steaming light. Plus you have no problem getting 
> around the compression posts.
>  
> Gary
> 30-1
> - Original Message -
> From: Prime Interest
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Friday, September 06, 2013 10:27 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing steaming light Now Mast Wiring
> 
> Awhile back I acquired a Hella unit ( 8504 ) when it was on sale for an 
> exceptional price but not yet installed. Significantly larger than what it is 
> replacing but seems to be a quality piece of kit.
>  
> Prior to launch next year I’ll be re-wiring the mast and was looking for 
> comment on using conduit ( or not ) or some other method to affix the bundle 
> to reduce mast noise. I think the mast section has a slot running up the 
> interior which seems like it might be used at least part way up the mast.
>  
> Let’s say you’re using conduit – how do you account for wires to the 
> foredeck/steaming light? Two sections of a single run with a gap at the light 
> .. two separate conduits? Maybe the steaming light wire outside but strapped 
> to the conduit.
>  
> Typical bundle of wires – masthead nav lights ( 5-wires as it has all-around, 
> tri-light, strobe and light for Windex ), VHF ( using LMR 400 UF coax ), 
> masthead instruments, foredeck/steaming.
>  
> This is for a 1982 Landfall 38. 3 internal halyards – one for an inner 
> forestay which might give us an obstacle on the way up if we’re going up the 
> front of the mast but maybe the back of the mast is preferred in any case. 
> Double spreader so two compression posts to get past – running back-stay 
> fittings but I don’t think there are compression posts. And the top plate of 
> the mast is welded on so have to work through the hole from the masthead 
> instruments.
>  
>  
> ed
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> dre...@gmail.com
> Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2013 1:57 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing steaming old light
>  
> Dennis,
>  
> Thanks for the info.  Another question:Are 
> you happy with the Aquasignal?I was deciding between the Forespar ML-2, 
> Hella 8505, and the AquaSignal Series 25.   I  decided on the Hella based on 
> some bad reviews I found online for the other two.   The Forespar had reports 
> of top lens falling out while tacking and the AquaSignal was stated as not 
> having any spray protection for the deck light bulb and so bulbs corroded and 
> died prematurely.   
>  
>  
> -
> Paul E.
> 1979 C&C 29 Mk1
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
>  
> On Sep 5, 2013, at 10:49 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> 
> Message: 10
> Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2013 07:49:51 -0700 (PDT)
> From: "Dennis C." 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing steaming old light
> Message-ID:
>   <1378392591.1503.yahoomail...@web121903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Paul,
> 
> If it is like the one on Touche's mast, I abandoned it.? It was that same 
> Perko all around light mounted on a metal "donut" welded to the mast.? I 
> installed an Aquasignal Series 25 combo steaming/foredeck light a bit above 
> the old fixture and dropped new wires.? 
> 
> I'm guessing the Aquasignal would fit over and hide the existing donut once 
> you remove the Perko light if you wanted to mount it in the same spot.? You 
> could use the existing wires to pull the new wires.
> 
> On a side note, Touche's pole topping lift exited another of those "donut" 
> things above the steaming light.? I have also abandoned that and installed an 
> exit box with sheave forthe topping lift.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
>  
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Re: Stus-List Salon Portlight Window Replacement

[Brent Driedger]

Pulling off the old windows can often be the worst part. Unless they are 
falling out already, expect some gelcoat to come with it.  Repair this properly 
so the adhesive can grip. 
Plexus was my choice and the agent rented the gun too. It's not cheap. Stuff at 
$35 bucks a cartridge and it took 1.7 to do my 27-5s long windows. 

Sent from my iPhone

On 2013-09-06, at 4:56 PM, Bill Bina  wrote:

> Adhesives are science, not speculation. 3m specifically says 5200 is not 
> suitable for this application.
> 
> Limitations:
> (continued)
> - 3M™ Marine Adhesive/Sealant 5200 is not recommended for the installation of
> glass, polycarbonate or acrylic windows that are not also mechanically 
> fastened
> with a system designed by the manufacturer. Inconsistent adhesion of these
> unprimed substrates, specific design of the window, and movement due to 
> thermal
> expansion and flexing, may cause application failure. It is strongly 
> recommended
> that the customer contact the window/port light/hatch manufacturer for
> recommendations on proper sealing procedure
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
> On 9/6/2013 5:37 PM, Jerome Tauber wrote:
>> As I remarked - there is much debate on the best adhesives to use.   I would 
>> not rule out 5200 as you want a permanent installation.   5200 offers, good 
>> adhesion and excellent water seal.  However, there is much advice to use a 
>> rigid glue so that the windows become part of the structure of the boat.  In 
>> my view either would be good for coastal cruising - though a rigid 
>> installation is probably the better but more difficult choice.   Just my 
>> opinion.   I used boat life boat seal and never had a problem with it.   Use 
>> a gun though and a liberal  application.   Jerry Tauber 
> 
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Re: Stus-List NE Rendezvous

[Andrew Burton]

SW'ly is just kicking in light. But enough to sail in through the channel in 
half an hour

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Sep 6, 2013, at 13:45, Tim Goodyear  wrote:

> I think we are technically running from Branford to Block, but with 5 knots 
> it is upwind (a little).  Expect the wind to ease then go South.
> 
> Tim
> Mojito 
> 
> On Sep 6, 2013, at 12:57 PM, Andrew Burton  wrote:
> 
>> Reaching to Block from Newport. That never happens. I'd like to compliment 
>> the organizers. This is really above and beyond. Sailing next to another 40 
>> called Double Black. That really is a pretty boat. It's good to have such 
>> nice scenery to gaze at!
>> Andy
>> Peregrine
>> C&C 40
>> 
>> Andrew Burton
>> 61 W Narragansett
>> Newport, RI 
>> USA02840
>> 
>> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>> +401 965-5260
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Re: Stus-List Salon Portlight Window Replacement

[Bill Bina]

  
  
I've never really understood why so
  many people are resistant to using Plexus to rebed the portlights
  on their C&C. The people who designed the boat didn't pick
  Plexus out of a hat. They did their homework, and voted for
  something they thought was appropriate. TIME has proven that
  Plexus was a very good choice. No other alternate has ever been
  tested as long, or on as many C&C's as Plexus, although I've
  read many reports of failures trying something else just to save a
  few bucks. Plexus worked well, and has held up as well or better
  than any adhesive could be expected to hold up. If you have an
  adhesive/sealant that has lasted 25 years or more ON A BOAT, why
  on earth would you do all the work of removal & installation
  with anything else? Seems like foolishness to mess with obvious
  success. Same goes for using Butyl for the hull/deck joint. It is
  time-proven more thoroughly than any other alternative. If Plexus
  and Butyl were known to be problematic, or short-lived, I could
  understand looking for an improvement. 
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 9/6/2013 6:13 PM, Brent Driedger wrote:


  
  Pulling off the old windows can often be the worst part.
Unless they are falling out already, expect some gelcoat to come
with it.  Repair this properly so the adhesive can grip. 
  Plexus was my choice and the agent rented the gun too. It's
not cheap. Stuff at $35 bucks a cartridge and it took 1.7 to do
my 27-5s long windows. 
  


  


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Re: Stus-List Salon Portlight Window Replacement

[Frederick G Street]

I WOULD rule out 3M 5200, as it's chemically incompatible with acrylic (which 
most of us use to replace our fixed windows).  The debate is between Sikaflex, 
which some have used on this list successfully, and a two-part methacrylate 
like Plexus, which many of us have used successfully (and which is what the 
factory used when the boats were built).

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Sep 6, 2013, at 4:37 PM, Jerome Tauber  wrote:

> As I remarked - there is much debate on the best adhesives to use.   I would 
> not rule out 5200 as you want a permanent installation.   5200 offers, good 
> adhesion and excellent water seal.  However, there is much advice to use a 
> rigid glue so that the windows become part of the structure of the boat.  In 
> my view either would be good for coastal cruising - though a rigid 
> installation is probably the better but more difficult choice.   Just my 
> opinion.   I used boat life boat seal and never had a problem with it.   Use 
> a gun though and a liberal  application.   Jerry Tauber  

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Stus-List Fwd: Tartan Marine Company Announces Strategic Focus On Tartan Yachts

[Jerome Tauber]

Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Tartan Marine Company 
> Date: September 6, 2013, 2:08:33 PM EDT
> To: jrtau...@aol.com
> Subject: Tartan Marine Company Announces Strategic Focus On Tartan Yachts
> Reply-To: ccorbiss...@tartan-ccyachts.com
> 
> 
> FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
> 
> 
> Media Contact:
> 
> Christine Corbissero
> Director of Marketing & Customer Satisfaction
> Phone: 440-210-5133
> Email address: ccorbiss...@tartanyachts.com
> 
> Address: 1920 Fairport Nursery Rd., Fairport Harbor, Ohio 44077
>  
> Website: www.tartanyachts.com 
> 
> TARTAN MARINE COMPANY, LLC ANNOUNCES STRATEGIC FOCUS FOR INCREASED GROWTH AND 
> STRONGER BRANDING FOR TARTAN YACHTS
> 
> FAIRPORT HARBOR, OHIO, SEPTEMBER 6, 2013-Tartan Marine Company, LLC announced 
> that as part of the strategy to increase growth of the Tartan Yachts line, 
> they have licensed exclusive rights to build, develop, distribute and market 
> all new models of the C&C Yachts brand to USWatercraft of Warren RI.
>  
> "We are pleased to have such an outstanding boat builder as USWatercraft take 
> over the future development of the iconic C&C Yachts brand," said Steve 
> Malbasa, owner of Tartan Marine Company, LLC. According to Malbasa the new 
> focus on the Tartan Yachts brand will allow for future growth, new model 
> development and the continued superior customer service that Tartan owners 
> have come to count on.
>  
> Tartan Marine Company's first steps towards this increased focus on the 
> Tartan Yachts brand is to bring the very successful C&C 101 and C&C 115 under 
> the Tartan Yachts brand name. "The introduction of the C&C 101 last year, and 
> the subsequent win as Overall Boat of The Year in Cruising World Magazine, 
> reflect the dedication to performance and craftsmanship that Tartan is known 
> for," said Malbasa. These two models will be transitioned into the Tartan 
> Yachts line as the Tartan 101 and the Tartan 115 and Tartan Marine Company 
> has every confidence that both models current success will only be enhanced 
> by the Tartan Yachts name.
>  
> Tartan Marine Company is committed to implementing best in class processes to 
> enable faster new product development and greater flexibility across its 
> businesses and operations. In line with this, Tartan Marine Company will be 
> introducing a new website later this month that will enhance the buyer and 
> owner experience. "The new web presence was developed with our continued 
> commitment to providing the best owner experience as the primary objective," 
> said Christine Corbissero, Director of Marketing & Customer Satisfaction. 
> Corbissero said that the site offers new features including a dedicated 
> MyTartan owner portal, opportunities to charter a Tartan Yacht and a more 
> robust ecommerce offering.
>  
> Tartan Yachts will also be attending the Newport International Boat Show 
> September 12th -15th featuring an assortment of Tartan Yachts. Visit the 
> Tartan display at dock N-0 to see the new Tartan Fantail Weekender, the 
> Tartan Fantail Daysailor and the Tartan 4000. As part of the dedication to 
> enhancing the Tartan experience, test sails will be scheduled aboard the 
> Tartan Fantail Daysailor for qualified candidates at the show. "The one thing 
> every owner tells us is that nothing else sails like a Tartan. We felt the 
> best way to share this knowledge with interested buyers would be to 
> experience this first hand aboard a test sail at the show," Corbissero said.  
> 
> About Tartan Yachts
> Throughout the 50-year history of Tartan sailboats, Tartan Yachts has 
> produced boats offering cutting edge technology with head turning good looks. 
> We have done so by staying true to our creed of providing Tartan sailboat 
> owners with a yacht that delivers both luxurious accommodations and safe, 
> well-mannered sailing performance in all conditions.
>  
> At Tartan Yachts we have a passion to deliver the best sailboat owner 
> experience possible. Our commitment to design and engineering is based on 
> total performance. We don't believe that a simple superficial appeal to 
> aesthetics is enough to serve the interests of our owners. Our designers, 
> builders and sales team understand and appreciate that every yacht we build 
> must be the best yacht we build. Most importantly we are committed to the 
> next 50 years with the focus of simply making our customer experience the 
> best the industry has to offer.
> 
> 
> 
> © Copyright 2013 Tartan Marine Company, LLC All rights reserved.
> Forward this email
>   
> This email was sent to jrtau...@aol.com by n...@tartan-ccyachts.com |  
> Update Profile/Email Address | Instant removal with SafeUnsubscribe™ | 
> Privacy Policy.
> Tartan Marine Company | 1920 Fairport Nursery Rd. | Fairport Harbor | OH | 
> 44077
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Stus-List Airmar speed transducers

[Fred Hazzard]

I am in need of an Airmar speed transducer.  It needs to be the older 800
series that reads boat speed and temp.  Further it needs to be an older unit
that is 1 5/8" in diameter.

 

Anybody have an older working unit in your surplus boat gear?

 

Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

Portland, OR

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