Re: Stus-List ICOM radio charging station

[Della Barba, Joe]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ICOM-AD-95-Charge-Cup-Adapter-for-IC-M1V-IC-M1Euro-V-/300923781956?pt=US_Radio_Comm_Coaxial_Cables_Connectors&hash=item4610748344#ht_574wt_1164

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe Della 
Barba
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 10:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List ICOM radio charging station

They are on Ebay.  I might have a spare.   Joe. Coquina

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 23, 2013, at 9:53 PM, Richard Walter 
mailto:sailind...@yahoo.com>> wrote:
Greetings,

We have an Icom IC-M1V handheld radio...and for the life of me canNOT find the 
charger. Any ideas how to get a rea$onable replacement? Does anyone know if 
Icom makes a current product that our IC-M1V will fit? That way we can charge 
both with the same charger.

Thank you,
Richard
s/v INDIGO
1978 36-foot
Watch Hill
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Stus-List ICOM radio charging station

[Kim Brown]

Richard 
The ICOM charger for that is the AD-95 though I have seen some universal
chargers too. Agree you should try e-bay.
You can hardwire it into boat 12v or it comes with a 200mA 12v transformer
(bc-122a)
Kim Brown
Trust Me!!!
35-3


To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List ICOM radio charging station
Message-ID:
<1372038793.47536.yahoomail...@web122406.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Greetings,

We have an Icom IC-M1V handheld radio...and for the life of me canNOT find
the charger. Any ideas how to get a rea$onable replacement? Does anyone know
if Icom makes a current product that our IC-M1V will fit? That way we can
charge both with the same charger.

Thank you,
Richard
s/v INDIGO
1978 36-foot
Watch Hill



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Re: Stus-List Cast aluminum jiggy thing for cable steering

[Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR]

I would think that to be unlikely.

My quadrant on my 35-3 has 6 bolts holding it together. 4 at the shaft
and one on each edge to keep the groove aligned.

-Keith M


-Original Message-
From: Jim Watts [mailto:paradigmat...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, June 21, 2013 20:27
To: Danny Haughey; 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cast aluminum jiggy thing for cable steering

Double checking here...the quadrant is designed to be in two pieces that
clamp around the shaft. It hasn't just lost a couple of screws, has it?



On 21 June 2013 11:28, Danny Haughey  wrote:


Hi Damien, my Viking brethren!  I agree with the Edson advice.
Now we've both lost steering too!

Danny


From my Android phone 



 Original message 
From: Jim Watts  
Date: 06/21/2013 1:44 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: 1 CnC List  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cast aluminum jiggy thing for cable
steering 



Are you talking about the quadrant? If so, give Edson a call,
they will have what you need. Know what diameter rudder post you have
before you call them...



On 21 June 2013 10:08, Damien Morrissey
 wrote:


Last night as I was motoring to my dock space after
putting up my mast, i noticed my wheel steering was WAY too loose.  I
was lucky enough to be able to DRIFT correctly into my slip without any
steering correction (since that would have been impossible).

I have a 1974 Ontario Viking (33 foot) - C&C design.

Upon investigation at lunch time today I found that the
Cast Aluminum thing that attaches and guides the pedestal steering
cables had snapped into two pieces and is no longer attached to the
steering shaft.

Does anyone on the list know where such a beast can be
found or what I can call it when I call to inquire.

Thanks in advance for the help - this list is GREAT !


Damien
"Melissa Anne"

Corner Brook, 
NL, Canada

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-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


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-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


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[Frederick G Street]

Ejection seat?!

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Jun 23, 2013, at 10:58 AM, Knowles Rich  wrote:

> Might be connected to your auto helm?? Or Windlass?  Or. BLAM!!
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
> 
> On 2013-06-23, at 10:59, Edd Schillay  wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
>   I don't know if it was something that the previous owners installed or 
> something that came out of the factory, but I have three buttons on the 
> starboard side of my helm seat, and one on the port side -- and I have NO 
> IDEA whatsoever what they are meant to do. Here is a photo of the three on 
> starboard.
> 
>   3 out of 4 of them are broken, and I know I don't have a use for them 
> because, in my 8 years of ownership, I haven't had the need to operate 
> anything that I don't know where there are switches for, but the curiosity 
> has been nagging at me. Because of where they are installed, I can't seem to 
> trace where the wires go. 
> 
>   Does anyone have anything similar on their boat, and if you know, what 
> are they for?
> 
>   I just hope, pushed in the proper sequence, that they don't do 
> something like this: LINK

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Re: Stus-List Track Touche' racing Gulfport to Pensacola

[Frederick G Street]

Dennis -- how did the race go?

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Jun 17, 2013, at 2:43 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:

> The Gulfport to Pensacola Race has live tracking this year.  You can watch 
> Touche's progress, or lack thereof, at:
> 
> http://kws.kattack.com/kattacklive/offshore.aspx?FeedID=1089
> 
> Race begins at noon Friday June 21.  Looks like a slow, possibly wet one this 
> year.  Way different than last year's 20+ hours beating upwind in mid 20's 
> and 6 foot seas.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

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[Stevan Plavsa]

That would drive me nuts. My boat had an alarm system that didn't do
anything up until late last week when I ripped it all out in an obsessive
compulsive frenzy. Ahhh... no more random wires.

You only have one youtube video .. you should get on that. Some of us may
be curious to see more of the Enterprise making use of those crystals.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Mon, Jun 24, 2013 at 10:06 AM, Frederick G Street wrote:

> Ejection seat?!
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Jun 23, 2013, at 10:58 AM, Knowles Rich  wrote:
>
> Might be connected to your auto helm?? Or Windlass?  Or. BLAM!!
>
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
>
> On 2013-06-23, at 10:59, Edd Schillay  wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I don't know if it was something that the previous owners installed or
> something that came out of the factory, but I have three buttons on the
> starboard side of my helm seat, and one on the port side -- and I have NO
> IDEA whatsoever what they are meant to do. Here is a photo of the three
> on starboard
> .
>
> 3 out of 4 of them are broken, and I know I don't have a use for them
> because, in my 8 years of ownership, I haven't had the need to operate
> anything that I don't know where there are switches for, but the curiosity
> has been nagging at me. Because of where they are installed, I can't seem
> to trace where the wires go.
>
> Does anyone have anything similar on their boat, and if you know, what are
> they for?
>
> I just hope, pushed in the proper sequence, that they don't do something
> like this: 
> LINK
>
>
>
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[Edd Schillay]

Steve,

We're just starting to get into video -- still very iffy on keeping my 
iPhone 5 on deck when the Enterprise is sailing. Here's a few of our YouTube 
highlights:

1. Weapons system check:  
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=_hja2puzxwk 

2. Dilithium crystal installation and operation: 
http://youtu.be/89vY1p0tT2E 

3. July 4, 2012 fireworks in Hempstead Harbor: 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Kc0B9Wi7C_c

4. On our way to the C&C Rendezvous last year - hitting big waves out 
of Port Jefferson on Day 2: 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=5Ytyye3rHuo

Found the perfect music track to go with the last one :-)


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website

On Jun 24, 2013, at 11:41 AM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:

> That would drive me nuts. My boat had an alarm system that didn't do anything 
> up until late last week when I ripped it all out in an obsessive compulsive 
> frenzy. Ahhh... no more random wires.
> 
> You only have one youtube video .. you should get on that. Some of us may be 
> curious to see more of the Enterprise making use of those crystals.
> 
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
> 
> 
> On Mon, Jun 24, 2013 at 10:06 AM, Frederick G Street  
> wrote:
> Ejection seat?!
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
> On Jun 23, 2013, at 10:58 AM, Knowles Rich  wrote:
> 
>> Might be connected to your auto helm?? Or Windlass?  Or. BLAM!!
>> 
>> Rich Knowles
>> Indigo. LF38
>> Halifax
>> 
>> On 2013-06-23, at 10:59, Edd Schillay  wrote:
>> 
>> Listers,
>> 
>>  I don't know if it was something that the previous owners installed or 
>> something that came out of the factory, but I have three buttons on the 
>> starboard side of my helm seat, and one on the port side -- and I have NO 
>> IDEA whatsoever what they are meant to do. Here is a photo of the three on 
>> starboard.
>> 
>>  3 out of 4 of them are broken, and I know I don't have a use for them 
>> because, in my 8 years of ownership, I haven't had the need to operate 
>> anything that I don't know where there are switches for, but the curiosity 
>> has been nagging at me. Because of where they are installed, I can't seem to 
>> trace where the wires go. 
>> 
>>  Does anyone have anything similar on their boat, and if you know, what 
>> are they for?
>> 
>>  I just hope, pushed in the proper sequence, that they don't do 
>> something like this: LINK
> 
> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Track Touche' racing Gulfport to Pensacola

[Dennis C.]

Well, we had a very good first 2/3rds of the race.  We were well ahead of our 
class 15 miles down course at the Gulfport sea buoy.  We were still in 
front at the Mobile sea buoy 60 miles down the course (we thought).  
Then things went downhill.  Between the wind and the skipper (me) going 
brain dead, we had a poor finish.

After watching the forecast for days call for nothing over 9 knots, I chose 
not to bring the #3.  After the Mobile sea buoy the wind piped up to 
15-17 knots on the nose.  We were struggling mightily with the 155 
genoa.  The toerail was buried and we were getting kicked sideways.  Our upwind 
VMG went to crap.  Instead of 0.6 to 0.7 times boat speed, VMG 
(and waypoint closure velocity) dropped to 0.4 to 0.5 times boatspeed.

After a couple hours of that we looked back and noticed a Morgan 44 center 
cockpit had crept back up on us.  We put in a reef and managed to 
increase VMG a bit and not lose any more time to him but he had made up 
enough to correct over us by 4 minutes. This was the brain dead moment.  We 
should have reefed a couple hours earlier.  Duh!

I just watched the replay.  We rounded the Mobile sea buoy almost dead even 
with a Newport 41.  Not bad.  

The Morgan never showed on the Kattack system.  That kinda irritated us but 
really shouldn't have because years ago there wasn't any tracking 
system and we wouldn't have known he was there until we saw him 
visually.  We checked the competition after the Mobile buoy and thought 
we were in good shape.  Wish I could see where the Morgan was at this 
point.

So we can only lick our wounds, learn our lesson and forget what could have 
been.  New rules - always take the #3!!  Reef early, reef often!

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



>
> From: Frederick G Street 
>To: Dennis C. ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Monday, June 24, 2013 9:10 AM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Track Touche' racing Gulfport to Pensacola
> 
>
>
>Dennis -- how did the race go?
>
>
>Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^( 
>
>On Jun 17, 2013, at 2:43 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:
>
>The Gulfport to Pensacola Race has live tracking this year.  You can watch 
>Touche's progress, or lack thereof, at:
>>
>>
>>http://kws.kattack.com/kattacklive/offshore.aspx?FeedID=1089
>>
>>
>>Race begins at noon Friday June 21.  Looks like a slow, possibly wet one this 
>>year.  Way different than last year's 20+ hours beating upwind in mid 20's 
>>and 6 foot seas.
>>
>>
>>
>>Dennis C.
>>Touche' 35-1 #83
>>Mandeville, LA
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Track Touche' racing Gulfport to Pensacola

[Della Barba, Joe]

Darn!

< New rules - always take the #3!!  Reef early, reef often!>
Rail down, going 7.2, taking a beating, having fun.  Voice from the v-berth - 
my wife says her reading is being disturbed and wants a reef. I complain about 
ruining my fun but do it anyway.
Boat speed is now 7.6.


Joe Della Barba

Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2013 12:44 PM
To: Cn Clist
Subject: Re: Stus-List Track Touche' racing Gulfport to Pensacola


Well, we had a very good first 2/3rds of the race.  We were well ahead of our 
class 15 miles down course at the Gulfport sea buoy.  We were still in front at 
the Mobile sea buoy 60 miles down the course (we thought).  Then things went 
downhill.  Between the wind and the skipper (me) going brain dead, we had a 
poor finish.

After watching the forecast for days call for nothing over 9 knots, I chose not 
to bring the #3.  After the Mobile sea buoy the wind piped up to 15-17 knots on 
the nose.  We were struggling mightily with the 155 genoa.  The toerail was 
buried and we were getting kicked sideways.  Our upwind VMG went to crap.  
Instead of 0.6 to 0.7 times boat speed, VMG (and waypoint closure velocity) 
dropped to 0.4 to 0.5 times boatspeed.

After a couple hours of that we looked back and noticed a Morgan 44 center 
cockpit had crept back up on us.  We put in a reef and managed to increase VMG 
a bit and not lose any more time to him but he had made up enough to correct 
over us by 4 minutes. This was the brain dead moment.  We should have reefed a 
couple hours earlier.  Duh!

I just watched the replay.  We rounded the Mobile sea buoy almost dead even 
with a Newport 41.  Not bad.

The Morgan never showed on the Kattack system.  That kinda irritated us but 
really shouldn't have because years ago there wasn't any tracking system and we 
wouldn't have known he was there until we saw him visually.  We checked the 
competition after the Mobile buoy and thought we were in good shape.  Wish I 
could see where the Morgan was at this point.

So we can only lick our wounds, learn our lesson and forget what could have 
been.  New rules - always take the #3!!  Reef early, reef often!

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


From: Frederick G Street mailto:f...@postaudio.net>>
To: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@yahoo.com>>; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2013 9:10 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Track Touche' racing Gulfport to Pensacola

Dennis -- how did the race go?

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Jun 17, 2013, at 2:43 PM, Dennis C. 
mailto:capt...@yahoo.com>> wrote:


The Gulfport to Pensacola Race has live tracking this year.  You can watch 
Touche's progress, or lack thereof, at:

http://kws.kattack.com/kattacklive/offshore.aspx?FeedID=1089

Race begins at noon Friday June 21.  Looks like a slow, possibly wet one this 
year.  Way different than last year's 20+ hours beating upwind in mid 20's and 
6 foot seas.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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[Ken Heaton]

I'll second this, these look like the buttons from a SailComp.

Ken H.


On 23 June 2013 13:54, Paul Fountain  wrote:

> Did the Starship Enterprise have a KVH sailcomp at one time?
>
> ** **
>
> Perception has 3 buttons in her propane locker that at one point were part
> of one  Slowly removing all the wires.
>
> Paul. :)
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Edd
> Schillay
> *Sent:* June-23-13 10:00 AM
>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List Mystery Buttons on my C&C37+
>
> ** **
>
> Listers,
>
> ** **
>
> I don't know if it was something that the previous owners
> installed or something that came out of the factory, but I have three
> buttons on the starboard side of my helm seat, and one on the port side --
> and I have NO IDEA whatsoever what they are meant to do. Here is a photo
> of the three on 
> starboard
> .
>
> ** **
>
> 3 out of 4 of them are broken, and I know I don't have a use
> for them because, in my 8 years of ownership, I haven't had the need to
> operate anything that I don't know where there are switches for, but the
> curiosity has been nagging at me. Because of where they are installed, I
> can't seem to trace where the wires go. 
>
> ** **
>
> Does anyone have anything similar on their boat, and if you
> know, what are they for?
>
> ** **
>
> I just hope, pushed in the proper sequence, that they don't
> do something like this: 
> LINK
> 
>
> ** **
>
>
>   
>
>   All the best,
>
> ** **
>
>   Edd
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
>   Edd M. Schillay
>
>   Starship Enterprise
>
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>
>   City Island, NY 
>
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's 
> Log
> 
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
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>
>
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Stus-List Fw: ICOM radio charging station

[Persuasion]

Did you ask the Admiral if she might have put it up in a safe place.  A few 
years back I couldn’t find the mike for our IC710.  So after about a year I 
decide if I’m going to get my licence to operate this radio I had better get a 
mike.  So 100 bucks later I have a new mike.  Well at Christmas time the 
Admiral pulls out a storage bin with decorations and low and behold there is 
the missing mike.  I can laugh now but it wasn’t funny at the time.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Richard Walter 
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 9:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List ICOM radio charging station

Greetings,


We have an Icom IC-M1V handheld radio...and for the life of me canNOT find the 
charger. Any ideas how to get a rea$onable replacement? Does anyone know if 
Icom makes a current product that our IC-M1V will fit? That way we can charge 
both with the same charger.


Thank you,
Richard
s/v INDIGO
1978 36-foot
Watch Hill



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Stus-List 29-2 keel bolts

[Bob Hickson]

I have a 29-2 that I bought a year ago.

Up until 3 weeks ago there were no leaks into the bilge around the keel
bolts / mast step.

The channel between the bay where I keep the boat and Lake Ontario is
currently under re-construction and dredging.

Three weeks ago, I hit a “pile of mud / sand” that they had left in the
middle of the channel at 5.5 knots.

The boat blew through the pile of mud but the impact was relatively severe
and it threw the entire crew off our feet.

Now I have visible seepage ( a cup full every ½ hour) around all the keel
bolts.

There are no visible signs of damage to the hull or structural “egg crate”
inside the hull.

Today, I removed the nut and washer from the small keel bolt (1/2 inch) at
the rear edge of the keel

Was very surprised to see a ½ inch bolt in a 1’ hole with no filler or
sealant between the sides of the hole and the bolt.

You can poke a screw driver 4 to 5 inches down into the hole beside the bolt
without felling any sealant at all.

This seems very strangeI would expect some kind of sealant to be present
around the bolt?

Does anyone know of a way to force sealant down into the water filled gap
around the bolt to seal it at least temporarily until haul out in the fall?

If successful on the small bolt, I will try the others one at a time.

 

 

Best regards,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA

C&C 29-2 Flying Colours

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club

Pickering, ON

(416) 919-2297

  bobhick...@rogers.com

 

 __/) 

 

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Re: Stus-List Track Touche' racing Gulfport to Pensacola

[Jake Brodersen]

I had to bail out of our Saturday night race (prior to the start) since my
#3 blew up this spring.  It really sucks not having the right sails on
board.

Some years we never use the #3.  This year it got a lot of use and finally
let go.  Hopefully this summer we won't need it.  There's a huge gap in my
sail inventory between the #2 and the storm jib!

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III

Midnight Mistress

Hampton VA

   

cid:image001.png@01CE3D06.5A990940

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2013 3:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Track Touche' racing Gulfport to Pensacola

 

Darn!

 

< New rules - always take the #3!!  Reef early, reef often!>

Rail down, going 7.2, taking a beating, having fun.  Voice from the v-berth
- my wife says her reading is being disturbed and wants a reef. I complain
about ruining my fun but do it anyway.

Boat speed is now 7.6...

 

 

Joe Della Barba

 

Coquina

 

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Re: Stus-List 29-2 keel bolts

[Jake Brodersen]

Bob,

 

Unless you can completely dry the area out, a conventional sealant probably
won’t set up correctly.  Butyl tape might be a good choice.  It will
maintain a good seal without having to set up.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III

Midnight Mistress

Hampton VA

   

cid:image001.png@01CE3D06.5A990940

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Hickson
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2013 6:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 29-2 keel bolts

 

I have a 29-2 that I bought a year ago.

Up until 3 weeks ago there were no leaks into the bilge around the keel
bolts / mast step.

The channel between the bay where I keep the boat and Lake Ontario is
currently under re-construction and dredging.

Three weeks ago, I hit a “pile of mud / sand” that they had left in the
middle of the channel at 5.5 knots.

The boat blew through the pile of mud but the impact was relatively severe
and it threw the entire crew off our feet.

Now I have visible seepage ( a cup full every ½ hour) around all the keel
bolts.

There are no visible signs of damage to the hull or structural “egg crate”
inside the hull.

Today, I removed the nut and washer from the small keel bolt (1/2 inch) at
the rear edge of the keel

Was very surprised to see a ½ inch bolt in a 1’ hole with no filler or
sealant between the sides of the hole and the bolt.

You can poke a screw driver 4 to 5 inches down into the hole beside the bolt
without felling any sealant at all.

This seems very strangeI would expect some kind of sealant to be present
around the bolt?

Does anyone know of a way to force sealant down into the water filled gap
around the bolt to seal it at least temporarily until haul out in the fall?

If successful on the small bolt, I will try the others one at a time.

 

 

Best regards,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA

C&C 29-2 Flying Colours

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club

Pickering, ON

(416) 919-2297

  bobhick...@rogers.com

 

 __/) 

 

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Re: Stus-List 29-2 keel bolts

[Edd Schillay]

Bob,

If I were you, I'd get the boat hauled and looked at by a professional. 

My father hit a rock once in the Enterprise-A that started as a slow leak and 
worsened very quickly. 

The keel had to be dropped and everything rebedded. $8,000 in repairs, but 
covered by insurance. 


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.332.1671  | Fax
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 5

On Jun 24, 2013, at 6:08 PM, "Bob Hickson"  wrote:

I have a 29-2 that I bought a year ago.
Up until 3 weeks ago there were no leaks into the bilge around the keel bolts / 
mast step.
The channel between the bay where I keep the boat and Lake Ontario is currently 
under re-construction and dredging.
Three weeks ago, I hit a “pile of mud / sand” that they had left in the middle 
of the channel at 5.5 knots.
The boat blew through the pile of mud but the impact was relatively severe and 
it threw the entire crew off our feet.
Now I have visible seepage ( a cup full every ½ hour) around all the keel bolts.
There are no visible signs of damage to the hull or structural “egg crate” 
inside the hull.
Today, I removed the nut and washer from the small keel bolt (1/2 inch) at the 
rear edge of the keel
Was very surprised to see a ½ inch bolt in a 1’ hole with no filler or sealant 
between the sides of the hole and the bolt.
You can poke a screw driver 4 to 5 inches down into the hole beside the bolt 
without felling any sealant at all.
This seems very strangeI would expect some kind of sealant to be present 
around the bolt?
Does anyone know of a way to force sealant down into the water filled gap 
around the bolt to seal it at least temporarily until haul out in the fall?
If successful on the small bolt, I will try the others one at a time.
 
 
Best regards,
Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA
C&C 29-2 Flying Colours
Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club
Pickering, ON
(416) 919-2297
bobhick...@rogers.com
 
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Stus-List Fw: 29-2 keel bolts

[Persuasion]

Bob

Several years ago a friend of mine sailing out of Whitby Yacht club had a 
relatively minor grounding (his words).  No visible damage but on 
recommendations of other friends he pull his boat and there was considerable 
damage to ribs.  Something about the deep keel and relatively short base.  For 
piece of mind I get someone to look at it.  

It’s kind of ironic that after years of stalling your channel finally gets 
dredged and you ground your boat on the spoils.  Hopefully the rock in the 
middle is gone.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Bob Hickson 
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2013 6:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List 29-2 keel bolts

I have a 29-2 that I bought a year ago.

Up until 3 weeks ago there were no leaks into the bilge around the keel bolts / 
mast step.

The channel between the bay where I keep the boat and Lake Ontario is currently 
under re-construction and dredging.

Three weeks ago, I hit a “pile of mud / sand” that they had left in the middle 
of the channel at 5.5 knots.

The boat blew through the pile of mud but the impact was relatively severe and 
it threw the entire crew off our feet.

Now I have visible seepage ( a cup full every ½ hour) around all the keel bolts.

There are no visible signs of damage to the hull or structural “egg crate” 
inside the hull.

Today, I removed the nut and washer from the small keel bolt (1/2 inch) at the 
rear edge of the keel

Was very surprised to see a ½ inch bolt in a 1’ hole with no filler or sealant 
between the sides of the hole and the bolt.

You can poke a screw driver 4 to 5 inches down into the hole beside the bolt 
without felling any sealant at all.

This seems very strangeI would expect some kind of sealant to be present 
around the bolt?

Does anyone know of a way to force sealant down into the water filled gap 
around the bolt to seal it at least temporarily until haul out in the fall?

If successful on the small bolt, I will try the others one at a time.

 

 

Best regards,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA

C&C 29-2 Flying Colours

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club

Pickering, ON

(416) 919-2297

bobhick...@rogers.com

 

 __/) 

 



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Re: Stus-List 29-2 keel bolts

[Bill Bina]

I would resist the urge to fill those holes with anything. Access to 
oxygen is what keeps those stainless steel bolts from corroding. Add 
sealant, and you could cause a much greater problem than the one you 
have now. If you have water coming in from the keel joint, that is where 
you need to address it. From then outside. Honestly? I'd haul the boat 
and have someone with a lot of experience examine the damage.


Bill Bina

On 6/24/2013 6:08 PM, Bob Hickson wrote:


I have a 29-2 that I bought a year ago.

Up until 3 weeks ago there were no leaks into the bilge around the 
keel bolts / mast step.


The channel between the bay where I keep the boat and Lake Ontario is 
currently under re-construction and dredging.


Three weeks ago, I hit a “pile of mud / sand” that they had left in 
the middle of the channel at 5.5 knots.


The boat blew through the pile of mud but the impact was relatively 
severe and it threw the entire crew off our feet.


Now I have visible seepage ( a cup full every ½ hour) around all the 
keel bolts.


There are no visible signs of damage to the hull or structural “egg 
crate” inside the hull.


Today, I removed the nut and washer from the small keel bolt (1/2 
inch) at the rear edge of the keel


Was very surprised to see a ½ inch bolt in a 1’ hole with no filler or 
sealant between the sides of the hole and the bolt.


You can poke a screw driver 4 to 5 inches down into the hole beside 
the bolt without felling any sealant at all.


This seems very strangeI would expect some kind of sealant to be 
present around the bolt?


Does anyone know of a way to force sealant down into the water filled 
gap around the bolt to seal it at least temporarily until haul out in 
the fall?


If successful on the small bolt, I will try the others one at a time.

Best regards,

*Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA*

*/C&C 29-2 Flying Colours/*

*/Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club/*

*/Pickering, ON/*

*(416) 919-2297*

*bobhick...@rogers.com *

**




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Re: Stus-List 29-2 keel bolts

[kirk sneddon]

Bob,

 

I bought my 29 Mk II in the fall of 2006. I suspected at the time that it
may had been grounded. The surveyor inspected it on the hard and said no. It
looked from the outside like a few cracks in the gelcoat. Ha!  In retrospect
I should have trusted my instincts.

 

Typically grounding damage will be more severe at the back end of the keel
where it meets the hull as there is a buckling/compression loads maximize at
this location. The narrow aft section of the stub keel on the 29 makes it
susceptible.

 

I had “gel coat cracks” at the front and back of the stub keel

 

I ended up grinding out the front and back end of my keel, which was done in
stages. The front was re-laminated out from the inner pan. We did this after
year 1. The aft end was also ground from inside and outside. There was some
very shabby repair work back there. While we were at it the entire keel box
and grid were reinforced. We did this last fall.  The front and back of my
keel are now Pearson Triton thickness and I have a bone dry bilge. We
learned more about the laminate about the stub keel/keel box of the 29 than
I ever wanted to know.

 

I have seen two other 29’s with clearance around the ½ keel bolt that you
describe. Mine had the clearance, but I attributed that to the fact the
original repair done in the yard in NH was not well executed.  

 

The advice from others on the site is sound. You would be best doing a short
haul and inspecting from the outside. The damage could propagate, in best
case adding to the cost of a future repair and potentially, putting you in a
situation that could worsen quickly at a time not of your choosing.

 

Unfortunately I didn’t take pictures, but you can call me to discuss the
configuration of the stub keel and bolts as the painful memories are forever
seared into my mind.

 

My cell is 516-669-2385

 

Sorry to hear about your experience. The upside is that with modern
materials ( epoxy and biaxial cloths), it can be made better than new. No
indictment of the fine work done at the C&C factories intended.

 

Kirk Sneddon

C&C 29 Mk II – Flying Cloud

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Hickson
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2013 6:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 29-2 keel bolts

 

I have a 29-2 that I bought a year ago.

Up until 3 weeks ago there were no leaks into the bilge around the keel
bolts / mast step.

The channel between the bay where I keep the boat and Lake Ontario is
currently under re-construction and dredging.

Three weeks ago, I hit a “pile of mud / sand” that they had left in the
middle of the channel at 5.5 knots.

The boat blew through the pile of mud but the impact was relatively severe
and it threw the entire crew off our feet.

Now I have visible seepage ( a cup full every ½ hour) around all the keel
bolts.

There are no visible signs of damage to the hull or structural “egg crate”
inside the hull.

Today, I removed the nut and washer from the small keel bolt (1/2 inch) at
the rear edge of the keel

Was very surprised to see a ½ inch bolt in a 1’ hole with no filler or
sealant between the sides of the hole and the bolt.

You can poke a screw driver 4 to 5 inches down into the hole beside the bolt
without felling any sealant at all.

This seems very strangeI would expect some kind of sealant to be present
around the bolt?

Does anyone know of a way to force sealant down into the water filled gap
around the bolt to seal it at least temporarily until haul out in the fall?

If successful on the small bolt, I will try the others one at a time.

 

 

Best regards,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA

C&C 29-2 Flying Colours

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club

Pickering, ON

(416) 919-2297

  bobhick...@rogers.com

 

 __/) 

 

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Re: Stus-List 29-2 keel bolts

[Brent Driedger]

Hi Kirk,
I'd be interested to know how you reinforced the grid. The yard that repaired 
my 27 after the PO tried to rip the keel off did a shoddy job that I spent a 
lot of time on. The grid crosses the bilge box in two places And is in the 
shape of a flanged C channel with the flat part up serving as a place to screw 
the floor down to. 
The yard sliced off one of the sides of the channel in two spots over the bilge 
producing a weakened structure which I have not fixed yet. 5 years of hard 
racing and large lake swells has not resulted on any issues yet but it's 
something I'd like to fix anyway. 

Brent Driedger
C&C 27 mkV
s/v Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg 

Sent from my iPhone

On 2013-06-24, at 9:14 PM, kirk sneddon  wrote:

> Bob,
>  
> I bought my 29 Mk II in the fall of 2006. I suspected at the time that it may 
> had been grounded. The surveyor inspected it on the hard and said no. It 
> looked from the outside like a few cracks in the gelcoat. Ha!  In retrospect 
> I should have trusted my instincts.
>  
> Typically grounding damage will be more severe at the back end of the keel 
> where it meets the hull as there is a buckling/compression loads maximize at 
> this location. The narrow aft section of the stub keel on the 29 makes it 
> susceptible.
>  
> I had “gel coat cracks” at the front and back of the stub keel
>  
> I ended up grinding out the front and back end of my keel, which was done in 
> stages. The front was re-laminated out from the inner pan. We did this after 
> year 1. The aft end was also ground from inside and outside. There was some 
> very shabby repair work back there. While we were at it the entire keel box 
> and grid were reinforced. We did this last fall.  The front and back of my 
> keel are now Pearson Triton thickness and I have a bone dry bilge. We learned 
> more about the laminate about the stub keel/keel box of the 29 than I ever 
> wanted to know.
>  
> I have seen two other 29’s with clearance around the ½ keel bolt that you 
> describe. Mine had the clearance, but I attributed that to the fact the 
> original repair done in the yard in NH was not well executed.  
>  
> The advice from others on the site is sound. You would be best doing a short 
> haul and inspecting from the outside. The damage could propagate, in best 
> case adding to the cost of a future repair and potentially, putting you in a 
> situation that could worsen quickly at a time not of your choosing.
>  
> Unfortunately I didn’t take pictures, but you can call me to discuss the 
> configuration of the stub keel and bolts as the painful memories are forever 
> seared into my mind.
>  
> My cell is 516-669-2385
>  
> Sorry to hear about your experience. The upside is that with modern materials 
> ( epoxy and biaxial cloths), it can be made better than new. No indictment of 
> the fine work done at the C&C factories intended.
>  
> Kirk Sneddon
> C&C 29 Mk II – Flying Cloud
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob Hickson
> Sent: Monday, June 24, 2013 6:09 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List 29-2 keel bolts
>  
> I have a 29-2 that I bought a year ago.
> Up until 3 weeks ago there were no leaks into the bilge around the keel bolts 
> / mast step.
> The channel between the bay where I keep the boat and Lake Ontario is 
> currently under re-construction and dredging.
> Three weeks ago, I hit a “pile of mud / sand” that they had left in the 
> middle of the channel at 5.5 knots.
> The boat blew through the pile of mud but the impact was relatively severe 
> and it threw the entire crew off our feet.
> Now I have visible seepage ( a cup full every ½ hour) around all the keel 
> bolts.
> There are no visible signs of damage to the hull or structural “egg crate” 
> inside the hull.
> Today, I removed the nut and washer from the small keel bolt (1/2 inch) at 
> the rear edge of the keel
> Was very surprised to see a ½ inch bolt in a 1’ hole with no filler or 
> sealant between the sides of the hole and the bolt.
> You can poke a screw driver 4 to 5 inches down into the hole beside the bolt 
> without felling any sealant at all.
> This seems very strangeI would expect some kind of sealant to be present 
> around the bolt?
> Does anyone know of a way to force sealant down into the water filled gap 
> around the bolt to seal it at least temporarily until haul out in the fall?
> If successful on the small bolt, I will try the others one at a time.
>  
>  
> Best regards,
> Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA
> C&C 29-2 Flying Colours
> Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club
> Pickering, ON
> (416) 919-2297
> bobhick...@rogers.com
>  
>  __/) 
>  
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List 29-2 keel bolts

[kirk sneddon]

In the keel sumps, we re-laminated the corners, building them up so that there 
are far more generous corner radii and a gradual transition to the thickness of 
the keel box away from the corners

 

On the c-channels we built up the sides and lengthened the transitions/tabbing 
to the hull. We staggered the ply drops so there was no hard transitions/step 
changes in thickness.

 

On the repair of the c-channel you can lay in some rigid foam to give you a 
backing surface to work with. Grind the prep surface around where you are 
making the repair, leaving yourself a long scarf so that you have a lot of bond 
area. Stagger the ply drops ( size of the layers of the cloth used for the 
patch.) The modern epoxies are amazing. They bond to pretty much any well 
prepped surfaces such as the polyester resin glass laminates on our boats and 
are quite strong. The slow cure epoxies give you some more time to work, and 
won’t as readily exotherm when you are trying to build thickness.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Kirk Sneddon

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brent 
Driedger
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2013 10:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 29-2 keel bolts

 

Hi Kirk,

I'd be interested to know how you reinforced the grid. The yard that repaired 
my 27 after the PO tried to rip the keel off did a shoddy job that I spent a 
lot of time on. The grid crosses the bilge box in two places And is in the 
shape of a flanged C channel with the flat part up serving as a place to screw 
the floor down to. 

The yard sliced off one of the sides of the channel in two spots over the bilge 
producing a weakened structure which I have not fixed yet. 5 years of hard 
racing and large lake swells has not resulted on any issues yet but it's 
something I'd like to fix anyway. 

 

Brent Driedger

C&C 27 mkV

s/v Wild Rover

Lake Winnipeg 


Sent from my iPhone


On 2013-06-24, at 9:14 PM, kirk sneddon  wrote:

Bob,

 

I bought my 29 Mk II in the fall of 2006. I suspected at the time that it may 
had been grounded. The surveyor inspected it on the hard and said no. It looked 
from the outside like a few cracks in the gelcoat. Ha!  In retrospect I should 
have trusted my instincts.

 

Typically grounding damage will be more severe at the back end of the keel 
where it meets the hull as there is a buckling/compression loads maximize at 
this location. The narrow aft section of the stub keel on the 29 makes it 
susceptible.

 

I had “gel coat cracks” at the front and back of the stub keel

 

I ended up grinding out the front and back end of my keel, which was done in 
stages. The front was re-laminated out from the inner pan. We did this after 
year 1. The aft end was also ground from inside and outside. There was some 
very shabby repair work back there. While we were at it the entire keel box and 
grid were reinforced. We did this last fall.  The front and back of my keel are 
now Pearson Triton thickness and I have a bone dry bilge. We learned more about 
the laminate about the stub keel/keel box of the 29 than I ever wanted to know.

 

I have seen two other 29’s with clearance around the ½ keel bolt that you 
describe. Mine had the clearance, but I attributed that to the fact the 
original repair done in the yard in NH was not well executed.  

 

The advice from others on the site is sound. You would be best doing a short 
haul and inspecting from the outside. The damage could propagate, in best case 
adding to the cost of a future repair and potentially, putting you in a 
situation that could worsen quickly at a time not of your choosing.

 

Unfortunately I didn’t take pictures, but you can call me to discuss the 
configuration of the stub keel and bolts as the painful memories are forever 
seared into my mind.

 

My cell is 516-669-2385

 

Sorry to hear about your experience. The upside is that with modern materials ( 
epoxy and biaxial cloths), it can be made better than new. No indictment of the 
fine work done at the C&C factories intended.

 

Kirk Sneddon

C&C 29 Mk II – Flying Cloud

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob Hickson
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2013 6:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 29-2 keel bolts

 

I have a 29-2 that I bought a year ago.

Up until 3 weeks ago there were no leaks into the bilge around the keel bolts / 
mast step.

The channel between the bay where I keep the boat and Lake Ontario is currently 
under re-construction and dredging.

Three weeks ago, I hit a “pile of mud / sand” that they had left in the middle 
of the channel at 5.5 knots.

The boat blew through the pile of mud but the impact was relatively severe and 
it threw the entire crew off our feet.

Now I have visible seepage ( a cup full every ½ hour) around all the keel bolts.

There are no visible signs of damage to the hull or structural “egg crate” 
inside the hull.

Today, I removed the nut and washer from the small kee