In the keel sumps, we re-laminated the corners, building them up so that there are far more generous corner radii and a gradual transition to the thickness of the keel box away from the corners
On the c-channels we built up the sides and lengthened the transitions/tabbing to the hull. We staggered the ply drops so there was no hard transitions/step changes in thickness. On the repair of the c-channel you can lay in some rigid foam to give you a backing surface to work with. Grind the prep surface around where you are making the repair, leaving yourself a long scarf so that you have a lot of bond area. Stagger the ply drops ( size of the layers of the cloth used for the patch.) The modern epoxies are amazing. They bond to pretty much any well prepped surfaces such as the polyester resin glass laminates on our boats and are quite strong. The slow cure epoxies give you some more time to work, and won’t as readily exotherm when you are trying to build thickness. Hope this helps. Kirk Sneddon From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brent Driedger Sent: Monday, June 24, 2013 10:36 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 29-2 keel bolts Hi Kirk, I'd be interested to know how you reinforced the grid. The yard that repaired my 27 after the PO tried to rip the keel off did a shoddy job that I spent a lot of time on. The grid crosses the bilge box in two places And is in the shape of a flanged C channel with the flat part up serving as a place to screw the floor down to. The yard sliced off one of the sides of the channel in two spots over the bilge producing a weakened structure which I have not fixed yet. 5 years of hard racing and large lake swells has not resulted on any issues yet but it's something I'd like to fix anyway. Brent Driedger C&C 27 mkV s/v Wild Rover Lake Winnipeg Sent from my iPhone On 2013-06-24, at 9:14 PM, kirk sneddon <kirksned...@optonline.net> wrote: Bob, I bought my 29 Mk II in the fall of 2006. I suspected at the time that it may had been grounded. The surveyor inspected it on the hard and said no. It looked from the outside like a few cracks in the gelcoat. Ha! In retrospect I should have trusted my instincts. Typically grounding damage will be more severe at the back end of the keel where it meets the hull as there is a buckling/compression loads maximize at this location. The narrow aft section of the stub keel on the 29 makes it susceptible. I had “gel coat cracks” at the front and back of the stub keel I ended up grinding out the front and back end of my keel, which was done in stages. The front was re-laminated out from the inner pan. We did this after year 1. The aft end was also ground from inside and outside. There was some very shabby repair work back there. While we were at it the entire keel box and grid were reinforced. We did this last fall. The front and back of my keel are now Pearson Triton thickness and I have a bone dry bilge. We learned more about the laminate about the stub keel/keel box of the 29 than I ever wanted to know. I have seen two other 29’s with clearance around the ½ keel bolt that you describe. Mine had the clearance, but I attributed that to the fact the original repair done in the yard in NH was not well executed. The advice from others on the site is sound. You would be best doing a short haul and inspecting from the outside. The damage could propagate, in best case adding to the cost of a future repair and potentially, putting you in a situation that could worsen quickly at a time not of your choosing. Unfortunately I didn’t take pictures, but you can call me to discuss the configuration of the stub keel and bolts as the painful memories are forever seared into my mind. My cell is 516-669-2385 Sorry to hear about your experience. The upside is that with modern materials ( epoxy and biaxial cloths), it can be made better than new. No indictment of the fine work done at the C&C factories intended. Kirk Sneddon C&C 29 Mk II – Flying Cloud From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob Hickson Sent: Monday, June 24, 2013 6:09 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List 29-2 keel bolts I have a 29-2 that I bought a year ago. Up until 3 weeks ago there were no leaks into the bilge around the keel bolts / mast step. The channel between the bay where I keep the boat and Lake Ontario is currently under re-construction and dredging. Three weeks ago, I hit a “pile of mud / sand” that they had left in the middle of the channel at 5.5 knots. The boat blew through the pile of mud but the impact was relatively severe and it threw the entire crew off our feet. Now I have visible seepage ( a cup full every ½ hour) around all the keel bolts. There are no visible signs of damage to the hull or structural “egg crate” inside the hull. Today, I removed the nut and washer from the small keel bolt (1/2 inch) at the rear edge of the keel Was very surprised to see a ½ inch bolt in a 1’ hole with no filler or sealant between the sides of the hole and the bolt. You can poke a screw driver 4 to 5 inches down into the hole beside the bolt without felling any sealant at all. This seems very strange....I would expect some kind of sealant to be present around the bolt? Does anyone know of a way to force sealant down into the water filled gap around the bolt to seal it at least temporarily until haul out in the fall? If successful on the small bolt, I will try the others one at a time. Best regards, Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA C&C 29-2 Flying Colours Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club Pickering, ON (416) 919-2297 <mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com> bobhick...@rogers.com ~~~~ __/) ~~~~ _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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