Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Tim Goodyear]

Erik, I have just spent a large number of boat bucks replacing the tabbing in 
the keel stub and repairing wet core above the stub.  We also had a recurring 
crack at the rear of the keel that I hope is finally dealt with, but was 
seeping water (more slowly than yours).  If there was nothing obvious before 
launch, and you're not going to have sleepless nights worrying, get an 
automatic bilge pump and a bigger battery and enjoy your season.  Mojito is 
still in the yard...

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On May 21, 2013, at 12:51 AM, "erik_hawk...@yahoo.com"  
wrote:

> Thanks for the welcome!
> 
> Any issue with tightening in the water? I've read conflicting thoughts on the 
> subject. I'm also hoping based on where the leak is missing the one bolt will 
> be okay until end of season. The PO tells me they were tightened 3 or 4 years 
> ago and rebedded 15 years ago.  I was surprised at th he lack of a pump but 
> it made it 28 years without.
> 
> Erik
> 
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
> 
> 
> Joel Aronson  wrote:
> 
> Erik,
> 
> Welcome!
> Was the keel joint tight before the boat was launched?
> There is a keel bolt under the mast, but you can reach the others and it 
> sounds like the leak is aft of the mast.
> Can't believe there was no automatic pump!
> 
> Joel
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On May 20, 2013, at 5:03 PM, Erik Hillenmeyer  wrote:
> 
>> Hello,
>>  
>> Been following on here for a while but never posted.
>>  
>> I have a new-to-me 1984 C&C 35 MKIII on Lake Michigan.  When we launched six 
>> days ago I noticed a large amount of water in the bilge when I would go to 
>> the boat.  Approximately 2.5 gallons every 24 hours.  I have narrowed the 
>> leak down to what I assume is a hull/keel joint issue. 
>>  
>> After checking all the obvious sources for this much water (thru hull, 
>> tanks, etc, etc) I finally noticed that all the water was coming from a 
>> limber hole in the stringer just forward of the aft most keel bolt.  The 
>> water is NOTcoming out this limber hole because it's flowing through there 
>> from a higher point in the bilge - it's flooding up from underneath the 
>> stringer.  The bilge area aft of this stringer is dusty dry and I've 
>> elminated all other sources of water.
>>  
>> The first thing I'm in the process of doing is installing an automatic bilge 
>> pump and float switch (PO never had one).  
>>  
>> I also plan on tightening the keel bolts as soon as I get access to a torque 
>> wrench and an extension that can reach the 2 feet to the deepest part of the 
>> sump where one of the keel bolts is located.  I'm hoping this is some help 
>> in stopping or reducing the leak.  The sailing season is very short here and 
>> hauling out now would cost us a big chunk of sailing, so I'm willing to try 
>> anything to stay in.
>>  
>> I've thrown this out on some other blogs, but wanted to know if other C&C 
>> owners have experienced this issue or have some solutions for getting her 
>> through the season.
>>  
>> Thanks,
>>  
>> Erik
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Stus-List Bow chocks, pennants and mooring

[David Knecht]

I moved my boat to its mooring last weekend and discovered that the bow chocks are quite different from my C&C 34.  Instead of open chocks to lead the pennants, there are closed slits.  These are fine for the docklines used in a slip, but are not nearly big enough for the twin pennants on my mooring.  I simply ran the pennants over the bow and looped them over the cleats, but I am concerned as to whether this is sufficiently secure.  THoughts?  Dave

David KnechtAries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT


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Re: Stus-List Bow chocks, pennants and mooring

[Joel Aronson]

David,

The issue becomes chafe and protecting the fiberglass.  I would either
replace the chocks or add stainless rub rail (strakes?).  Otherwise, the
gel coat will be gone in no time.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Tue, May 21, 2013 at 9:06 AM, David Knecht wrote:

> I moved my boat to its mooring last weekend and discovered that the bow
> chocks are quite different from my C&C 34.  Instead of open chocks to lead
> the pennants, there are closed slits.  These are fine for the docklines
> used in a slip, but are not nearly big enough for the twin pennants on my
> mooring.  I simply ran the pennants over the bow and looped them over the
> cleats, but I am concerned as to whether this is sufficiently secure.
>  THoughts?  Dave
>
> David Knecht
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Bow chocks, pennants and mooring

[David Knecht]

Hi Joel- The pennants are not making contact with the gel coat anywhere.  They are looping over the stainless bow fitting which is part of the anchor roller and extends all the way to the first stantion, if my memory is correct (rarely). So it is effectively a stainless rub rail at the bow.  I guess they could chafe more on the stainless than through a chock, but there is chafe guards on the pennants (pendant? which is correct?).  DaveOn May 21, 2013, at 9:11 AM, Joel Aronson  wrote:David,The issue becomes chafe and protecting the fiberglass.  I would either replace the chocks or add stainless rub rail (strakes?).  Otherwise, the gel coat will be gone in no time.
Joel35/3AnnapolisOn Tue, May 21, 2013 at 9:06 AM, David Knecht  wrote:

I moved my boat to its mooring last weekend and discovered that the bow chocks are quite different from my C&C 34.  Instead of open chocks to lead the pennants, there are closed slits.  These are fine for the docklines used in a slip, but are not nearly big enough for the twin pennants on my mooring.  I simply ran the pennants over the bow and looped them over the cleats, but I am concerned as to whether this is sufficiently secure.  THoughts?  Dave








David KnechtAries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT

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Re: Stus-List Centerboard issue

[robertlmazza]

The original of that drawing is most likely in the C&C Collection at the Marine 
Museum of the Great Lakes at Kingston (ON). If you contact them through their 
website you could probably obtain your own digital copy for a modest price. An 
institution well worth supporting in its own right, but even more because of 
the C&C Collection. They will also be mounting a major Yachting Exhibit in 
2014. 

Rob 
Sent on the TELUS Mobility network with BlackBerry

-Original Message-
From: "Don Wagner" 
Sender: "CnC-List" 
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 22:28:06 
To: 
Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Centerboard issue

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Re: Stus-List Bow chocks, pennants and mooring

[Joel Aronson]

David,

It sounds like chafe is not likely in calm conditions, but my secondary
concern would be that the mooring pennant could get caught on the roller if
the boat were to bob up and down. Also, without chocks the boat will swing
more from side to side.

Maybe run the line through large O rings and shackle them to the toe rail?
http://www.marinepartdepot.com/ststori7widi.html


Joel


On Tue, May 21, 2013 at 9:23 AM, David Knecht wrote:

> Hi Joel- The pennants are not making contact with the gel coat anywhere.
>  They are looping over the stainless bow fitting which is part of the
> anchor roller and extends all the way to the first stantion, if my memory
> is correct (rarely). So it is effectively a stainless rub rail at the bow.
>  I guess they could chafe more on the stainless than through a chock, but
> there is chafe guards on the pennants (pendant? which is correct?).  Dave
>
> On May 21, 2013, at 9:11 AM, Joel Aronson  wrote:
>
> David,
>
> The issue becomes chafe and protecting the fiberglass.  I would either
> replace the chocks or add stainless rub rail (strakes?).  Otherwise, the
> gel coat will be gone in no time.
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
>
>
> On Tue, May 21, 2013 at 9:06 AM, David Knecht wrote:
>
>> I moved my boat to its mooring last weekend and discovered that the bow
>> chocks are quite different from my C&C 34.  Instead of open chocks to lead
>> the pennants, there are closed slits.  These are fine for the docklines
>> used in a slip, but are not nearly big enough for the twin pennants on my
>> mooring.  I simply ran the pennants over the bow and looped them over the
>> cleats, but I am concerned as to whether this is sufficiently secure.
>>  THoughts?  Dave
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> David Knecht
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control

[Edd Schillay]

Listers,

I'm looking to move the location of the T pull-stop control for my 
engine on the Enterprise (C&C 37+). 

Currently, it's mounted horizontally near the control panel and very 
close to the cockpit floor -- which is a difficult angle to pull from when 
you're at the helm. 

I was curious where other owners have theirs mounted (if you have one 
-- I know some engines just throttle down to off) and what hardware you used to 
put it there.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Erik Hillenmeyer]

The previous owner says the bilge was dry the last season he had it in the 
water.  I know him well and trust him that he doesn't recall a grouding either. 
 I know I haven't grounded it in the week I've had it in the water...  I'm 
wondering what happened in those 18 months on the hard to create leak of this 
size as soon as I launch when he saw nothing his last season with it?  

 

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Re: Stus-List Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control

[Rick Brass]

The Universal M35B in Imzadi does not have the original pull cable to stop
the engine. Instead, there is a solenoid mounted on an L bracket on the aft
starboard side of the engine block. The coil of the solenoid pulls in a
"plunger" which pulls a thin metal rod attached to the shutoff lever on the
injection pump. When the solenoid is deactivated, the rubber boot that
covers the plunger pulls the plunger forward and releases the stop lever.
All this is activated by a push button installed in the engine panel and
powered by the +12v feed to the panel.

 

It works well for me, and eliminates one cable run. Westerbeke sells a
remote start/stop panel, so you could probably identify all the needed parts
fairly easily (you would only need the remote stop parts for your engine. 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 9:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control

 

Listers,

 

I'm looking to move the location of the T pull-stop control for
my engine on the Enterprise (C&C 37+). 

 

Currently, it's mounted horizontally near the control panel and
very close to the cockpit floor -- which is a difficult angle to pull from
when you're at the helm. 

 

I was curious where other owners have theirs mounted (if you
have one -- I know some engines just throttle down to off) and what hardware
you used to put it there.


  

  All the best,

 

  Edd

 

 

  Edd M. Schillay

  Starship Enterprise

  C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

  City Island, NY 

  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
 

 

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Re: Stus-List Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control

[Joel Aronson]

Edd,

Do you have a Yanmar?  If the cable is corroded it is hard to pull (I broke
my instrument panel last year mine was so corroded).  You might need a new
cable.  The new one requires no effort.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Tue, May 21, 2013 at 10:30 AM, Rick Brass wrote:

> The Universal M35B in Imzadi does not have the original pull cable to stop
> the engine. Instead, there is a solenoid mounted on an L bracket on the aft
> starboard side of the engine block. The coil of the solenoid pulls in a
> “plunger” which pulls a thin metal rod attached to the shutoff lever on the
> injection pump. When the solenoid is deactivated, the rubber boot that
> covers the plunger pulls the plunger forward and releases the stop lever.
> All this is activated by a push button installed in the engine panel and
> powered by the +12v feed to the panel.
>
> ** **
>
> It works well for me, and eliminates one cable run. Westerbeke sells a
> remote start/stop panel, so you could probably identify all the needed
> parts fairly easily (you would only need the remote stop parts for your
> engine. 
>
> ** **
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Edd
> Schillay
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 21, 2013 9:45 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control
>
> ** **
>
> Listers,
>
> ** **
>
> I'm looking to move the location of the T pull-stop control
> for my engine on the Enterprise (C&C 37+). 
>
> ** **
>
> Currently, it's mounted horizontally near the control panel
> and very close to the cockpit floor -- which is a difficult angle to pull
> from when you're at the helm. 
>
> ** **
>
> I was curious where other owners have theirs mounted (if you
> have one -- I know some engines just throttle down to off) and what
> hardware you used to put it there.
>
>
>   
>
>   All the best,
>
> ** **
>
>   Edd
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
>   Edd M. Schillay
>
>   Starship Enterprise
>
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>
>   City Island, NY 
>
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> Website
> 
>
> ** **
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Thomas Mikos]

Hi Erik,

The obvious question is how did the hull keel joint look at launch? Separation? 
Previous repair noted ? Grounding with compression fractures in the aft part of 
the keel . All of this could have been repaired cosmetically and upon stress 
could leak. I have a 33-2  with  the same structural work up; and when the mast 
was down I just happen to put a crescent wrench on the keel bolt nut under the 
mast and found it to be loose. Surprise but not uncommon since all the loading 
of the mast is at this location and the nut backs off. But your problem is aft 
of this location which is unusual, which makes me think of the possibility of a 
hard grounding. 

PS My boat also has survived with just a manual pump for 27 years. 

Tom 
Escape 
C&C 33-2
Hammond Indiana  





 From: Tim Goodyear 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 3:44 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
 


Erik, I have just spent a large number of boat bucks replacing the tabbing in 
the keel stub and repairing wet core above the stub.  We also had a recurring 
crack at the rear of the keel that I hope is finally dealt with, but was 
seeping water (more slowly than yours).  If there was nothing obvious before 
launch, and you're not going to have sleepless nights worrying, get an 
automatic bilge pump and a bigger battery and enjoy your season.  Mojito is 
still in the yard...

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On May 21, 2013, at 12:51 AM, "erik_hawk...@yahoo.com"  
wrote:


Thanks for the welcome! 
>
>
>Any issue with tightening in the water? I've read conflicting thoughts on the 
>subject. I'm also hoping based on where the leak is missing the one bolt will 
>be okay until end of season. The PO tells me they were tightened 3 or 4 years 
>ago and rebedded 15 years ago.  I was surprised at th he lack of a pump but it 
>made it 28 years without. 
>
>
>Erik
>
>
>Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
>
>Joel Aronson  wrote:
>
>
>Erik,
>
>
>Welcome!
>Was the keel joint tight before the boat was launched?
>There is a keel bolt under the mast, but you can reach the others and it 
>sounds like the leak is aft of the mast.
>Can't believe there was no automatic pump!
>
>Joel
>Sent from my iPad
>
>On May 20, 2013, at 5:03 PM, Erik Hillenmeyer  wrote:
>
>
>Hello,
>> 
>>Been following on here for a while but never posted.
>> 
>>I have a new-to-me 1984 C&C 35 MKIII on Lake Michigan.  When we launched six 
>>days ago I noticed a large amount of water in the bilge when I would go to 
>>the boat.  Approximately 2.5 gallons every 24 hours.  I have narrowed the 
>>leak down to what I assume is a hull/keel joint issue.  
>> 
>>After checking all the obvious sources for this much water (thru hull, tanks, 
>>etc, etc) I finally noticed that all the water was coming from a limber hole 
>>in the stringer just forward of the aft most keel bolt.  The water is 
>>NOTcoming out this limber hole because it's flowing through there from a 
>>higher point in the bilge - it's flooding up from underneath the stringer.  
>>The bilge area aft of this stringer is dusty dry and I've elminated all other 
>>sources of water.
>> 
>>The first thing I'm in the process of doing is installing an automatic bilge 
>>pump and float switch (PO never had one).  
>> 
>>I also plan on tightening the keel bolts as soon as I get access to a torque 
>>wrench and an extension that can reach the 2 feet to the deepest part of the 
>>sump where one of the keel bolts is located.  I'm hoping this is some help in 
>>stopping or reducing the leak.  The sailing season is very short here and 
>>hauling out now would cost us a big chunk of sailing, so I'm willing to try 
>>anything to stay in.
>> 
>>I've thrown this out on some other blogs, but wanted to know if other C&C 
>>owners have experienced this issue or have some solutions for getting her 
>>through the season.
>> 
>>Thanks,
>> 
>>Erik
>___
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>>
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Re: Stus-List Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control

[Edd Schillay]

Joel,

I have a Universal. The cable works fine -- it's just at a tough angle 
and I want to move it.

However, Rick has me fully intrigued with the remote option. Any lead 
as to where I can find the parts online??



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website

On May 21, 2013, at 10:35 AM, Joel Aronson  wrote:

> Edd,
> 
> Do you have a Yanmar?  If the cable is corroded it is hard to pull (I broke 
> my instrument panel last year mine was so corroded).  You might need a new 
> cable.  The new one requires no effort.
> 
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
> 
> 
> On Tue, May 21, 2013 at 10:30 AM, Rick Brass  wrote:
> The Universal M35B in Imzadi does not have the original pull cable to stop 
> the engine. Instead, there is a solenoid mounted on an L bracket on the aft 
> starboard side of the engine block. The coil of the solenoid pulls in a 
> “plunger” which pulls a thin metal rod attached to the shutoff lever on the 
> injection pump. When the solenoid is deactivated, the rubber boot that covers 
> the plunger pulls the plunger forward and releases the stop lever. All this 
> is activated by a push button installed in the engine panel and powered by 
> the +12v feed to the panel.
> 
>  
> 
> It works well for me, and eliminates one cable run. Westerbeke sells a remote 
> start/stop panel, so you could probably identify all the needed parts fairly 
> easily (you would only need the remote stop parts for your engine.
> 
>  
> 
> Rick Brass
> 
> Washington, NC
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd 
> Schillay
> Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 9:45 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control
> 
>  
> 
> Listers,
> 
>  
> 
> I'm looking to move the location of the T pull-stop control for 
> my engine on the Enterprise (C&C 37+). 
> 
>  
> 
> Currently, it's mounted horizontally near the control panel and 
> very close to the cockpit floor -- which is a difficult angle to pull from 
> when you're at the helm. 
> 
>  
> 
> I was curious where other owners have theirs mounted (if you have 
> one -- I know some engines just throttle down to off) and what hardware you 
> used to put it there.
> 
> 
>  
> 
>   All the best,
> 
>  
> 
>   Edd
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>   Edd M. Schillay
> 
>   Starship Enterprise
> 
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> 
>   City Island, NY 
> 
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
> 
>  
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[dwight veinot]

Are you sure it's not the prop shaft stuffing box that is leaking?  You said
the stern section was dry which would indicate it's not the stuffing box but
just saying in case.   Sometimes a stuffing box will take time in the water
to swell after long winter storage.

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Erik
Hillenmeyer
Sent: May 21, 2013 11:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

 

The previous owner says the bilge was dry the last season he had it in the
water.  I know him well and trust him that he doesn't recall a grouding
either.  I know I haven't grounded it in the week I've had it in the
water...  I'm wondering what happened in those 18 months on the hard to
create leak of this size as soon as I launch when he saw nothing his last
season with it?  

 

   

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5843 - Release Date: 05/21/13

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Erik Hillenmeyer]

I've definitely ruled that out and yes, the stern section is bone dry.  Also 
water tanks were never filled and all thru hulls appear perfectly sealed.  This 
water accumulates after a day on the can, without running the engine or sailing.
 
Erik Hillenmeyer
C&C 35 MKIII, Slapshot
Chicago, IL
 


 From: dwight veinot 
To: 'Erik Hillenmeyer' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 9:53 AM
Subject: RE: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
  


 
Are you sure it’s not the prop
shaft stuffing box that is leaking?  You said the stern section was dry which
would indicate it’s not the stuffing box but just saying in case.   Sometimes
a stuffing box will take time in the water to swell after long winter storage. 
  
Dwight Veinot 
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna 
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS  
  


  
From:CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Behalf Of Erik Hillenmeyer
Sent: May 21, 2013 11:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak  
  
The
previous owner says the bilge was dry the last season he had it in the
water.  I know him well and trust him that he doesn't recall a grouding
either.  I know I haven't grounded it in the week I've had it in
the water...  I'm wondering what happened in those 18 months on the
hard to create leak of this size as soon as I launch when he saw nothing his
last season with it?    
   
   


  
No virus found in this message.
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Re: Stus-List Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control

[Rick Brass]

Edd;

 

I'll take some photos of my arrangement when I am transporting the boat home
from last weekends race location tomorrow. And I will also ask a friend who
is an engine mechanic if he has a line on parts.

 

Rick

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 10:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control

 

Joel,

 

I have a Universal. The cable works fine -- it's just at a tough
angle and I want to move it.

 

However, Rick has me fully intrigued with the remote option. Any
lead as to where I can find the parts online??



  

  All the best,

 

  Edd

 

 

  Edd M. Schillay

  Starship Enterprise

  C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

  City Island, NY 

  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
 

 

On May 21, 2013, at 10:35 AM, Joel Aronson  wrote:





Edd,

 

Do you have a Yanmar?  If the cable is corroded it is hard to pull (I broke
my instrument panel last year mine was so corroded).  You might need a new
cable.  The new one requires no effort.

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis

 

On Tue, May 21, 2013 at 10:30 AM, Rick Brass 
wrote:

The Universal M35B in Imzadi does not have the original pull cable to stop
the engine. Instead, there is a solenoid mounted on an L bracket on the aft
starboard side of the engine block. The coil of the solenoid pulls in a
"plunger" which pulls a thin metal rod attached to the shutoff lever on the
injection pump. When the solenoid is deactivated, the rubber boot that
covers the plunger pulls the plunger forward and releases the stop lever.
All this is activated by a push button installed in the engine panel and
powered by the +12v feed to the panel.

 

It works well for me, and eliminates one cable run. Westerbeke sells a
remote start/stop panel, so you could probably identify all the needed parts
fairly easily (you would only need the remote stop parts for your engine. 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 9:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control

 

Listers,

 

I'm looking to move the location of the T pull-stop control for
my engine on the Enterprise (C&C 37+). 

 

Currently, it's mounted horizontally near the control panel and
very close to the cockpit floor -- which is a difficult angle to pull from
when you're at the helm. 

 

I was curious where other owners have theirs mounted (if you
have one -- I know some engines just throttle down to off) and what hardware
you used to put it there.


  

  All the best,

 

  Edd

 

 

  Edd M. Schillay

  Starship Enterprise

  C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

  City Island, NY 

  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
 

 


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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Thomas Mikos]

Hi Erik, 

Since the boat was in storage for 18 months you have to ask the following 
questions. How was she stored, on her own cradle or jack stands. On solid 
surface or ground with shifting. Assume the boat was surveyed and the findings 
of the survey may help. Also assume you have all seacocks closed with the 
exception of the cockpit drains. The cockpit drains have worked off my boat 
during winter; so it is an area that I monitor carefully before launch. 

Also I have replaced two hoses on my boat , both involving the sink drains. 
just a heads up there. My boat is similar to yours. 

Tom 
Escape 
C&C 33-2
Hammond Indiana





 From: Erik Hillenmeyer 
To: dwight veinot ; "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
 
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 9:59 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
 


I've definitely ruled that out and yes, the stern section is bone dry.  Also 
water tanks were never filled and all thru hulls appear perfectly sealed.  This 
water accumulates after a day on the can, without running the engine or sailing.
 
Erik Hillenmeyer
C&C 35 MKIII, Slapshot
Chicago, IL

From: dwight veinot 
To: 'Erik Hillenmeyer' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 9:53 AM
Subject: RE: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
 


 
Are you sure it’s not the prop
shaft stuffing box that is leaking?  You said the stern section was dry which
would indicate it’s not the stuffing box but just saying in case.   Sometimes
a stuffing box will take time in the water to swell after long winter storage.
 
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
 
From:CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Behalf Of Erik Hillenmeyer
Sent: May 21, 2013 11:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
 
The
previous owner says the bilge was dry the last season he had it in the
water.  I know him well and trust him that he doesn't recall a grouding
either.  I know I haven't grounded it in the week I've had it in
the water...  I'm wondering what happened in those 18 months on the
hard to create leak of this size as soon as I launch when he saw nothing his
last season with it?  
 
  
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com/
Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5843 - Release Date: 05/21/13


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Stus-List C & C 35-3 keel drawings

[Bob Hickson]

I have a PDF file showing the entire keel / centreboard assembly with all
the associated "bits and pieces" for the 35-3.

I would be happy to send the drawings to anyone interested.

 

Interesting comments on the top sheet for the drawings;

-  35-3 keel is the same as the 36 keel with a modified insert

-  There is an "added fiberglass spacer between the hull and keel"

-  C/B has 164 lb of lead sheet inside it

-  Much of the C/B mechanism is the same as on the 37

 

Send me an email "off list" and I will forward the drawings to you.

 

 

Best regards,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA

C&C 29-2 Flying Colours

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club

Pickering, ON

(416) 919-2297

  bobhick...@rogers.com

 

 __/) 

 

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Stus-List Launch!

[Frederick G Street]

Well, despite the really late spring, I've got a launch date.  Starting next 
Tuesday, Oceanis will be in the water for the first time since November 2011.

I imagine it'll look something like this:  
http://www.postaudio.net/webserver/shackleton.jpg

:^)


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

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Stus-List C&c 30 Mk I for sale

[Knowles Rich]

A friend of mine has a CC 30 Mk I for sale here in Halifax. I know little about 
it other than I am told its in good shape. If anyone is interested, please 
email me off list and i'll pass on his info to you. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax


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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Knowles Rich]

Have you stuck your finger in and tasted it to make sure it's sea water? It 
might be rainwater coming down the mast. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-05-21, at 11:59, Erik Hillenmeyer  wrote:

I've definitely ruled that out and yes, the stern section is bone dry.  Also 
water tanks were never filled and all thru hulls appear perfectly sealed.  This 
water accumulates after a day on the can, without running the engine or sailing.
 
Erik Hillenmeyer
C&C 35 MKIII, Slapshot
Chicago, IL

From: dwight veinot 
To: 'Erik Hillenmeyer' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 9:53 AM
Subject: RE: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

Are you sure it’s not the prop shaft stuffing box that is leaking?  You said 
the stern section was dry which would indicate it’s not the stuffing box but 
just saying in case.   Sometimes a stuffing box will take time in the water to 
swell after long winter storage.
 
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Erik 
Hillenmeyer
Sent: May 21, 2013 11:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
 
The previous owner says the bilge was dry the last season he had it in the 
water.  I know him well and trust him that he doesn't recall a grouding either. 
 I know I haven't grounded it in the week I've had it in the water...  I'm 
wondering what happened in those 18 months on the hard to create leak of this 
size as soon as I launch when he saw nothing his last season with it?  
 
  
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com/
Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5843 - Release Date: 05/21/13


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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Knowles Rich]

Duh!  You're in Chicago. No salt! 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-05-21, at 13:27, Knowles Rich  wrote:

Have you stuck your finger in and tasted it to make sure it's sea water? It 
might be rainwater coming down the mast. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-05-21, at 11:59, Erik Hillenmeyer  wrote:

I've definitely ruled that out and yes, the stern section is bone dry.  Also 
water tanks were never filled and all thru hulls appear perfectly sealed.  This 
water accumulates after a day on the can, without running the engine or sailing.
 
Erik Hillenmeyer
C&C 35 MKIII, Slapshot
Chicago, IL


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Re: Stus-List C & C 35-3 keel drawings

[Lisa Lias]

Hi, we'd like to see the drawings if its not too much trouble. 

Thanks, 

Ron and Lisa

Sent from my iPhone

On May 21, 2013, at 12:08 PM, "Bob Hickson"  wrote:

> I have a PDF file showing the entire keel / centreboard assembly with all the 
> associated “bits and pieces” for the 35-3.
> I would be happy to send the drawings to anyone interested.
>  
> Interesting comments on the top sheet for the drawings;
> -  35-3 keel is the same as the 36 keel with a modified insert
> -  There is an “added fiberglass spacer between the hull and keel”
> -  C/B has 164 lb of lead sheet inside it
> -  Much of the C/B mechanism is the same as on the 37
>  
> Send me an email “off list” and I will forward the drawings to you.
>  
>  
> Best regards,
> Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA
> C&C 29-2 Flying Colours
> Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club
> Pickering, ON
> (416) 919-2297
> bobhick...@rogers.com
>  
>  __/) 
>  
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List C&c 30 Mk I for sale

[Jeffrey Nelson]

Is that Jette?

On 05/21/13, Knowles Rich   wrote:
> A friend of mine has a CC 30 Mk I for sale here in Halifax. I know little 
> about it other than I am told its in good shape. If anyone is interested, 
> please email me off list and i'll pass on his info to you. 
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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> 
> 
--
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 Jeff Nelson
 Muir Caileag
 C&C 30
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Re: Stus-List C&c 30 Mk I for sale

[Knowles Rich]

Don't know the name, sorry. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-05-21, at 14:27, Jeffrey Nelson  wrote:

Is that Jette?

On 05/21/13, Knowles Rich  wrote:
> 
> A friend of mine has a CC 30 Mk I for sale here in Halifax. I know little 
> about it other than I am told its in good shape. If anyone is interested, 
> please email me off list and i'll pass on his info to you. 
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
> 
> 
> ___
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Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Erik Hillenmeyer]

Tom,
 
She was stored in her own cradle at Crowley's.  I did have a survey done before 
I purchased her and he mentioned nothing.  I was there when the survey done.  
It was done in the yard so he could do all the inspecting of the keel he needed 
too.  I have tried closing all seacocks ( i did leave scuppers open) when 
leaving the boat for a day and that had no effect.  I've pretty thoroughly 
inspected all thru hulls and see nothing coming in.
 
Thanks,
 
Erik Hillenmeyer
C&C 35 MKIII
Chicago, IL  
 


 From: Thomas Mikos 
To: Erik Hillenmeyer ; "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
 
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 11:05 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
  


Hi Erik, 

Since the boat was in storage for 18 months you have to ask the following 
questions. How was she stored, on her own cradle or jack stands. On solid 
surface or ground with shifting. Assume the boat was surveyed and the findings 
of the survey may help. Also assume you have all seacocks closed with the 
exception of the cockpit drains. The cockpit drains have worked off my boat 
during winter; so it is an area that I monitor carefully before launch. 

Also I have replaced two hoses on my boat , both involving the sink drains. 
just a heads up there. My boat is similar to yours. 

Tom 
Escape 
C&C 33-2
Hammond Indiana


 


 From: Erik Hillenmeyer 
To: dwight veinot ; "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
 
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 9:59 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
  


I've definitely ruled that out and yes, the stern section is bone dry.  Also 
water tanks were never filled and all thru hulls appear perfectly sealed.  This 
water accumulates after a day on the can, without running the engine or sailing.
 
Erik Hillenmeyer
C&C 35 MKIII, Slapshot
Chicago, IL
 


 From: dwight veinot 
To: 'Erik Hillenmeyer' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 9:53 AM
Subject: RE: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
  


 
Are you sure it’s not the prop
shaft stuffing box that is leaking?  You said the stern section was dry which
would indicate it’s not the stuffing box but just saying in case.   Sometimes
a stuffing box will take time in the water to swell after long winter storage. 
  
Dwight Veinot 
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna 
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS  
  


  
From:CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Behalf Of Erik Hillenmeyer
Sent: May 21, 2013 11:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak  
  
The
previous owner says the bilge was dry the last season he had it in the
water.  I know him well and trust him that he doesn't recall a grouding
either.  I know I haven't grounded it in the week I've had it in
the water...  I'm wondering what happened in those 18 months on the
hard to create leak of this size as soon as I launch when he saw nothing his
last season with it?    
   
   


  
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com/
Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5843 - Release Date: 05/21/13   

   
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Hoyt, Mike]

If you are having the volume of water you have described accumulating
each day you should be able to see the leak.  I would bail and then
spong out the leak and remove every floorboard or access panel you can
so that you can see the trickles of water coming in.  All of this is
assuming that it has not been raining where you are the past week.
 
The keel moves a lot when sailing and most keel bolts do seem to loosen
with time.  Our first boat had water in bilge by middle of season and I
sponged out the bilge only to notoce the water was seeping in around one
keel bolt.  I bought the appropirate sized sockets and tightened all the
bolts while in the water and the leak stopped.  On haulout at end of
season we notciced there was play in the keel and after that dropped and
rebedded the keel.
 
On our next boat we accumulated water again.  this time it was from
rainwater and leaks and around mast etc ... many many hours worth of
rebedding everything and the boat is dry.
 
Hopefully the 35-3 allows you to see the inside of the hull aft of that
stringer so you can see where the water is coming from.



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Erik
Hillenmeyer
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 12:00 PM
To: dwight veinot; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak


I've definitely ruled that out and yes, the stern section is bone dry.
Also water tanks were never filled and all thru hulls appear perfectly
sealed.  This water accumulates after a day on the can, without running
the engine or sailing.
 
Erik Hillenmeyer
C&C 35 MKIII, Slapshot
Chicago, IL

From: dwight veinot 
To: 'Erik Hillenmeyer' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 9:53 AM
Subject: RE: Stus-List 35-3 Leak


Are you sure it's not the prop shaft stuffing box that is leaking?  You
said the stern section was dry which would indicate it's not the
stuffing box but just saying in case.   Sometimes a stuffing box will
take time in the water to swell after long winter storage.
 
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Erik
Hillenmeyer
Sent: May 21, 2013 11:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
 
The previous owner says the bilge was dry the last season he had it in
the water.  I know him well and trust him that he doesn't recall a
grouding either.  I know I haven't grounded it in the week I've had it
in the water...  I'm wondering what happened in those 18 months on the
hard to create leak of this size as soon as I launch when he saw nothing
his last season with it?  
 
   
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com/
Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5843 - Release Date:
05/21/13


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Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[cptnmike]

-Original Message- 
From: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com

Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 7:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 88, Issue 66

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit

So odd that it seems to be coming from aft the keel bolts, Are you sure it 
is not the stuffing box on the prop shaft that is leaking and running 
forward into your bilge.  How about fresh water or water heater tank?   Too 
bad,  I guess being in Lake Michigan the salt water test is irrelevant.




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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

  1. Re:  Bow chocks, pennants and mooring (David Knecht)
  2. Re:  Centerboard issue (robertlma...@gmail.com)
  3. Re:  Bow chocks, pennants and mooring (Joel Aronson)
  4.  Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control (Edd Schillay)
  5. Re:  35-3 Leak (Erik Hillenmeyer)
  6. Re:  Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control (Rick Brass)
  7. Re:  Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control (Joel Aronson)
  8. Re:  35-3 Leak (Thomas Mikos)
  9. Re:  Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control (Edd Schillay)


--

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 09:23:26 -0400
From: David Knecht 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bow chocks, pennants and mooring
Message-ID: <45240ad0-79bb-4098-997d-fbdce0f54...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi Joel- The pennants are not making contact with the gel coat anywhere. 
They are looping over the stainless bow fitting which is part of the anchor 
roller and extends all the way to the first stantion, if my memory is 
correct (rarely). So it is effectively a stainless rub rail at the bow.  I 
guess they could chafe more on the stainless than through a chock, but there 
is chafe guards on the pennants (pendant? which is correct?).  Dave


On May 21, 2013, at 9:11 AM, Joel Aronson  wrote:


David,

The issue becomes chafe and protecting the fiberglass.  I would either 
replace the chocks or add stainless rub rail (strakes?).  Otherwise, the 
gel coat will be gone in no time.


Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Tue, May 21, 2013 at 9:06 AM, David Knecht  
wrote:
I moved my boat to its mooring last weekend and discovered that the bow 
chocks are quite different from my C&C 34.  Instead of open chocks to lead 
the pennants, there are closed slits.  These are fine for the docklines 
used in a slip, but are not nearly big enough for the twin pennants on my 
mooring.  I simply ran the pennants over the bow and looped them over the 
cleats, but I am concerned as to whether this is sufficiently secure. 
THoughts?  Dave









David Knecht
Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 13:29:51 +
From: robertlma...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Centerboard issue
Message-ID:
<503714389-1369142991-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1084868068-@b27.c2.bise6.blackberry>

Content-Type: text/plain

The original of that drawing is most likely in the C&C Collection at the 
Marine Museum of the Great Lakes at Kingston (ON). If you contact them 
through their website you could probably obtain your own digital copy for a 
modest price. An institution well worth supporting in its own right, but 
even more because of the C&C Collection. They will also be mounting a major 
Yachting Exhibit in 2014.


Rob
Sent on the TELUS Mobility network with BlackBerry

-Original Message-
From: "Don Wagner" 
Sender: "CnC-List" 
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 22:28:06
To: 
Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Centerboard issue

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--

Message: 3
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 09:34:16 -0400
From: Joel Aronson 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bow chocks, pennants and mooring
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Da

Stus-List OpenCPN fans?

[Della Barba, Joe]

I just upgraded the boat computer from a ThinkPad 600E to 600X*. Now I am 
cruising with Pentium III power instead of Pentium II I can get OpenCPN working 
quite well. Anyone else using it? I really like the tides, currents, and AIS 
functions. I still don't like ENC charts much, but the raster charts work great.

* for $45 shipped. Thanks FleaBay!

Joe Della Barba
Coquina

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Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 history was Marine vs Automotive parts

[Ronald B. Frerker]

Only it doesn't shake as bad, eh?
Ron
Wild Cheri


--- On Fri, 5/17/13, djhaug...@juno.com  wrote:


From: djhaug...@juno.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 history was Marine vs Automotive parts
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Friday, May 17, 2013, 10:46 AM



YEA!!  Thats some history!  I'm a proud A4 owner.  Its like the harley davidson 
in boating!

-- Original Message --
From: dre...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 history was Marine vs Automotive parts
Date: Fri, 17 May 2013 11:41:34 -0400


Hi,
 
 
This is from Wikipedia:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Atomic_4
 
 
 
The Atomic 4 is descended from an earlier Universal Motor Company design called 
the Utility Four, which was used extensively in World War II by the United 
States Navy and allies to power the lifeboats for the ships, barges, and 
tankers of many navies and merchant marine fleets. The Utility Four was 
replaced by the Atomic 4 in 1947.
 
 
 
 
-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL
 

On May 17, 2013, at 8:33 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

Date: Fri, 17 May 2013 09:23:05 -0300
From: "Hoyt, Mike" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Marine vs Automotive parts
Message-ID:
<4cdebb6b0f16c541ba8f985b72705d5416021...@hfxexc02.impgroup.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I once heard a story that the Atomic 4 was the power plant in the WW II
landing craft.  Anyone know if this is true?
 
-Inline Attachment Follows-


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Re: Stus-List OpenCPN fans?

[Joel Aronson]

Must look great next to the 8-Track and Loran!

I use OpenCPN at home for planning.  I'll get a GPS antenna at some point
so I can use the laptop in real time as a back up to my plotter and iPad.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Tue, May 21, 2013 at 3:02 PM, Della Barba, Joe
wrote:

> I just upgraded the boat computer from a ThinkPad 600E to 600X*. Now I am
> cruising with Pentium III power instead of Pentium II I can get OpenCPN
> working quite well. Anyone else using it? I really like the tides,
> currents, and AIS functions. I still don't like ENC charts much, but the
> raster charts work great.
>
> * for $45 shipped. Thanks FleaBay!
>
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
>
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> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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>



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301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Launch!

[Joel Aronson]

Congrats!  Is Fall haulout in August?

Joel


On Tue, May 21, 2013 at 12:10 PM, Frederick G Street wrote:

> Well, despite the *really* late spring, I've got a launch date.  Starting
> next Tuesday, *Oceanis* will be in the water for the first time since
> November 2011.
>
> I imagine it'll look something like this:
> http://www.postaudio.net/webserver/shackleton.jpg
>
> :^)
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


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301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List C & C 35-3 keel drawings

[Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR]

Just as an FYI to all the 35-3 CB folks out there:

The "fiberglass insert" mentioned below is sometimes poorly fitted up.
It was in mine, which made the builder gloop in tons of filler to fair
it to the hull.

Filler has very little tensile or compressive strength on it's own. So
it's fairly brittle.

All this filler was very happy to crack where it mates with the hull
after a few years of flexing.  At least it was on mine.

So my yard had to grind out tons of filler and replace it with properly
placed and reinforced glass cloth.

The keel bolts were tight the entire time...it was just the natural flex
of the fiberglass stump/keel joint.

And in the end. voile! No crack.


But I'd love to get a view of your drawings, if possible, Bob.

-Keith Morgenstern
C&C 35-3 CB



-Original Message-
From: Bob Hickson [mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 12:08
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C & C 35-3 keel drawings

I have a PDF file showing the entire keel / centreboard assembly with
all the associated "bits and pieces" for the 35-3.

I would be happy to send the drawings to anyone interested.

 

Interesting comments on the top sheet for the drawings;

-  35-3 keel is the same as the 36 keel with a modified insert

-  There is an "added fiberglass spacer between the hull and
keel"

-  C/B has 164 lb of lead sheet inside it

-  Much of the C/B mechanism is the same as on the 37

 

Send me an email "off list" and I will forward the drawings to you.

 

 

Best regards,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA

C&C 29-2 Flying Colours

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club

Pickering, ON

(416) 919-2297

bobhick...@rogers.com  

 

 __/) 

 


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Re: Stus-List Launch!

[Della Barba, Joe]

Must be one of those two season places:
Winter and August.


Joe Della Barba

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 3:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Launch!

Congrats!  Is Fall haulout in August?

Joel

On Tue, May 21, 2013 at 12:10 PM, Frederick G Street 
mailto:f...@postaudio.net>> wrote:
Well, despite the really late spring, I've got a launch date.  Starting next 
Tuesday, Oceanis will be in the water for the first time since November 2011.

I imagine it'll look something like this:  
http://www.postaudio.net/webserver/shackleton.jpg

:^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Erik Hillenmeyer]

The leaks appears to be directly underneath the stringer.  in fact, if you 
stick your finger down in the limber hole you can feel the squishiness of the 
stringer core that is being washed away (i've pulled out little pieces of it).  
I'm assuming this foam material indicates the core is inactive.  I've tried 
several times to completely dry this out by sponging out that void with paper 
towels or a sponge and then try and feel the trickle, but this hasn't proved 
very effective.
 
I spent the winter rebedding portlights, grab rails, etc that were all leaking 
and had rain water intrusion pretty much licked by launch time.  I am 
definitely seeing this without rain.  I manually pumped it out, left the boat 
and came back 24 hours later (no rain, no running the engine) and took a 
measurment of the water level.  I then pumped it out again and took a bucket 
and refilled it to where it was when I pumped out - 2.5 gallons.  
 
Unfortunately, I can't see inside the stringer beyond what I can see looking 
into the limber hole.  Without cutting into the stringer and removing that foam 
I don't think I'm going to see the actual leak - unless anyone has some 
suggestions.
 
 
 
  


 From: "Hoyt, Mike" 
To: Erik Hillenmeyer ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 1:32 PM
Subject: RE: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
  


 
If you are having the volume of water you have described 
accumulating each day you should be able to see the leak.  I would bail and 
then spong out the leak and remove every floorboard or access panel you can so 
that you can see the trickles of water coming in.  All of this is assuming 
that it has not been raining where you are the past week. 
  
The keel moves a lot when sailing and most keel bolts do seem 
to loosen with time.  Our first boat had water in bilge by middle of season 
and I sponged out the bilge only to notoce the water was seeping in around one 
keel bolt.  I bought the appropirate sized sockets and tightened all the 
bolts while in the water and the leak stopped.  On haulout at end of season 
we notciced there was play in the keel and after that dropped and rebedded the 
keel. 
  
On our next boat we accumulated water again.  this time 
it was from rainwater and leaks and around mast etc ... many many hours worth 
of 
rebedding everything and the boat is dry. 
  
Hopefully the 35-3 allows you to see the inside of the hull 
aft of that stringer so you can see where the water is coming 
from.



 From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Erik 
Hillenmeyer
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 12:00 PM
To: dwight 
veinot; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 
Leak

  
I've definitely ruled that out and yes, the stern section is bone 
dry.  Also water tanks were never filled and all thru hulls appear 
perfectly sealed.  This water accumulates after a day on the can, without 
running the engine or sailing. 
  
Erik Hillenmeyer 
C&C 35 MKIII, Slapshot 
Chicago, IL 
 


From: dwight veinot 

To: 'Erik Hillenmeyer' 
; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 9:53 
AM
Subject: RE: Stus-List 35-3 
Leak
 


 
Are you sure it’s not 
the prop shaft stuffing box that is leaking?  You said the stern section 
was dry which would indicate it’s not the stuffing box but just saying in 
case.   Sometimes a stuffing box will take time in the water to swell 
after long winter storage. 
  
Dwight 
Veinot 
C&C 35 MKII, 
Alianna 
Head of St. 
Margaret's Bay, NS 
  


 
From:CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Erik Hillenmeyer
Sent: May 21, 2013 11:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 
Leak 
  
The previous 
owner says the bilge was dry the last season he had it in the water.  
I know him well and trust him that he doesn't recall a grouding either.  I 
know I haven't grounded it in the week I've had it in 
the water...  I'm wondering what happened in those 18 months on the 
hard to create leak of this size as soon as I launch when he saw nothing his 
last season with it?   
  
   


 
No virus found in this 
message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com/
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Re: Stus-List NOAA Mobile app for Android

[Stevan Plavsa]

Bill, how did you download this on your nexus 7? I'm getting a "this isn't
supported on your device" from the google play store.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Mon, May 20, 2013 at 6:43 PM, Bob Moriarty  wrote:

> Bill,
> Thanks for the info. Downloaded and did a quick test drive on a Nexus 7.
> I also downloaded the Coastal Pilot for my neck of the woods.
> The open source licenses show it's based on MX Mariner (Will Kamp), which
> costs a whopping $6.99 (USD). Will contributed to the OpenCPN effort (also
> open source) and then took it into the Android world.
> Bob M
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL
>
>
>> ** **
>>
>> ___
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>>
>>
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List NOAA Mobile app for Android

[Curtis]

Samsung galixie 2? Will this work?

On 5/21/13, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:
> Bill, how did you download this on your nexus 7? I'm getting a "this isn't
> supported on your device" from the google play store.
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> On Mon, May 20, 2013 at 6:43 PM, Bob Moriarty  wrote:
>
>> Bill,
>> Thanks for the info. Downloaded and did a quick test drive on a Nexus 7.
>> I also downloaded the Coastal Pilot for my neck of the woods.
>> The open source licenses show it's based on MX Mariner (Will Kamp), which
>> costs a whopping $6.99 (USD). Will contributed to the OpenCPN effort
>> (also
>> open source) and then took it into the Android world.
>> Bob M
>> Ox 33-1
>> Jax, FL
>>
>>
>>> ** **
>>>
>>> ___
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>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
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>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>


-- 
“The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
change; the realist adjusts the sails.”

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Re: Stus-List NOAA Mobile app for Android

[Bill Coleman]

Sadly, I also get the note, *not supported for your device*. 
I feel like Rodney Dangerfield.

I have a Galaxy Note2 Phone.

Bill Coleman
C&C 39 


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 3:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List NOAA Mobile app for Android

Samsung galixie 2? Will this work?

On 5/21/13, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:
> Bill, how did you download this on your nexus 7? I'm getting a "this isn't
> supported on your device" from the google play store.
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> On Mon, May 20, 2013 at 6:43 PM, Bob Moriarty  wrote:
>
>> Bill,
>> Thanks for the info. Downloaded and did a quick test drive on a Nexus 7.
>> I also downloaded the Coastal Pilot for my neck of the woods.
>> The open source licenses show it's based on MX Mariner (Will Kamp), which
>> costs a whopping $6.99 (USD). Will contributed to the OpenCPN effort
>> (also
>> open source) and then took it into the Android world.
>> Bob M
>> Ox 33-1
>> Jax, FL
>>
>>
>>> ** **
>>>
>>> ___
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>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
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>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>


-- 
"The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
change; the realist adjusts the sails."

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Re: Stus-List Launch!

[Frederick G Street]

Actually, local wits like to say we either have two seasons (Winter and Road 
Construction) or four seasons (Winter, June, July and August).

We've just happened to have had a really strange transition out of winter this 
year.  Back and forth from high's in the 70's and 80's F, to snow and high's in 
the 30's F, all in the same week (sometimes several times that week).  Now 
we're getting thunderstorms and torrential rain.  The temps are still running 
ten to twenty degrees F below normal for this time of year.

Without wanting to start a pseudo-political $#!+storm, I think the instability 
and wild swings are indicative of the kinds of weather changes we've been 
warned about by the climate scientists.  And the HUGE weather systems making 
their way across the country of late are on a much larger scale than what we've 
seen in the past (we had severe weather the same day from the same system that 
slammed Oklahoma, 800 miles away).

Hopefully, after the long wait to get back in the water, we'll have a summer 
worthy of the name this year.  I hope that for all of my pals on the list, as 
well.

-- Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 21, 2013, at 2:20 PM, "Della Barba, Joe"  wrote:

> Must be one of those two season places:
> Winter and August.
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel 
> Aronson
> Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 3:10 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Launch!
>  
> Congrats!  Is Fall haulout in August?

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Re: Stus-List Launch!

[Persuasion]

I think you forgot mosquito season!

Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Frederick G Street 
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 4:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Launch!

Actually, local wits like to say we either have two seasons (Winter and Road 
Construction) or four seasons (Winter, June, July and August). 

We've just happened to have had a really strange transition out of winter this 
year.  Back and forth from high's in the 70's and 80's F, to snow and high's in 
the 30's F, all in the same week (sometimes several times that week).  Now 
we're getting thunderstorms and torrential rain.  The temps are still running 
ten to twenty degrees F below normal for this time of year.

Without wanting to start a pseudo-political $#!+storm, I think the instability 
and wild swings are indicative of the kinds of weather changes we've been 
warned about by the climate scientists.  And the HUGE weather systems making 
their way across the country of late are on a much larger scale than what we've 
seen in the past (we had severe weather the same day from the same system that 
slammed Oklahoma, 800 miles away).

Hopefully, after the long wait to get back in the water, we'll have a summer 
worthy of the name this year.  I hope that for all of my pals on the list, as 
well.

-- Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 21, 2013, at 2:20 PM, "Della Barba, Joe"  wrote:


  Must be one of those two season places:
  Winter and August.


  Joe Della Barba

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel 
Aronson
  Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 3:10 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Launch!
   
  Congrats!  Is Fall haulout in August?




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Re: Stus-List Launch!

[Frederick G Street]

That's usually anything other than Winter…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 21, 2013, at 3:18 PM, Persuasion  wrote:

> I think you forgot mosquito season!

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Re: Stus-List Launch!

[Nate Flesness]

Guyana greenheart ice-sheathing will be the latest "must have" item for us
Northern Sailors

Nate
"Sarah Jean"
1980 30-1
afloat in Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior
Cornucopia, WI


On Tue, May 21, 2013 at 11:10 AM, Frederick G Street wrote:

> Well, despite the *really* late spring, I've got a launch date.  Starting
> next Tuesday, *Oceanis* will be in the water for the first time since
> November 2011.
>
> I imagine it'll look something like this:
> http://www.postaudio.net/webserver/shackleton.jpg
>
> :^)
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Starting a diesel

[Colin Kilgour]

I've used WD recently - in 2009 - to re-start after having a hydro
lock in the cylinders.  Works like a charm.

Make sure you keep a can or two on board.   (Even if you prefer PB
Blaster for other uses)

Cheers
Colin


On 5/19/13, schiller  wrote:
> It may have changed over the years but it still is the only way to get a
> balky chainsaw to start.  I have also used it on 4 stroke small engines
> was well.
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
> (C&C 35, Mark I)
> "Corsair"
> Ready to splash Friday 24 May
>
> On 5/19/2013 10:21 AM, Bill Coleman wrote:
>> Well Rick, I respect your opinion and believe this to be true.  However,
>> I'm
>> guessing you are like most of us on this list, & also older than dirt.
>> And
>> from what I can garner, like Joe says, over time  WD-40 has had its
>> propellant changed from propane to carbon dioxide. You can spray it into
>> a
>> flame and it will put the flame out.
>> I don't think it works for engine starting anymmore. However, I could be
>> wrong.  I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken.
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>> C&C 39
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
>> Brass
>> Sent: Friday, May 17, 2013 11:27 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting a diesel
>>
>> WD-40 was the diesel starting fluid of choice among the diesel mechanics
>> I
>> knew. It is more combustible than diesel and much less explosive than
>> ether.
>> Apparently it helps the first cold squirts of diesel to ignite and burn
>> more
>> fully, which heats up the cylinder walls and promotes ignition. Most
>> would
>> not use ether because of the potential for the ether to ignite too soon
>> and
>> cause piston, pin, or connecting rod failures.
>>
>> No diesel engine will start with fuel, pump, etc turned off. Cough maybe,
>> but not start.
>>
>> Diesel starting was about the only thing my mechanic friends used wd-40
>> for,
>> actually. The penetrating oil of choice was PB-Blaster.
>>
>>
>> Rick Brass
>> Washington, NC
>>
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
>> Coleman
>> Sent: Friday, May 17, 2013 5:54 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting a diesel
>>
>> I have heard this remedy many times as well, and I always kept a can of
>> WD-40 on the boat for an emergency.
>> Then one time I actually tried it , several ways with fuel off, pump off,
>> etc, couldn't even get a dry fart out of my 107 Perkins. That was it, the
>> can came off the boat and up the hill.
>> I don't know anyone who has actually gotten this "Miracle Juice" to work
>> for
>> engine starting, I would be curious to hear if anyone else has? I believe
>> it
>> is mostly Stoddard Solvent -
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>> C&C 39
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>>
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>
>

-- 
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Re: Stus-List Launch!

[dwight veinot]

Looks like you guys near our big lakes see it first.I am not sure we
inhabitants of planet earth can do anything to change what is already in
place.it actually may be a natural cycle

 

I hope you do get some good summer sailing weather and I hope that for us
around here on the east coast do too.when sailors are happy with the weather
many more people are too!!!

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick
G Street
Sent: May 21, 2013 5:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Launch!

 

Actually, local wits like to say we either have two seasons (Winter and Road
Construction) or four seasons (Winter, June, July and August).

 

We've just happened to have had a really strange transition out of winter
this year.  Back and forth from high's in the 70's and 80's F, to snow and
high's in the 30's F, all in the same week (sometimes several times that
week).  Now we're getting thunderstorms and torrential rain.  The temps are
still running ten to twenty degrees F below normal for this time of year.

 

Without wanting to start a pseudo-political $#!+storm, I think the
instability and wild swings are indicative of the kinds of weather changes
we've been warned about by the climate scientists.  And the HUGE weather
systems making their way across the country of late are on a much larger
scale than what we've seen in the past (we had severe weather the same day
from the same system that slammed Oklahoma, 800 miles away).

 

Hopefully, after the long wait to get back in the water, we'll have a summer
worthy of the name this year.  I hope that for all of my pals on the list,
as well.

 

-- Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On May 21, 2013, at 2:20 PM, "Della Barba, Joe" 
wrote:





Must be one of those two season places:

Winter and August.

 

 

Joe Della Barba

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc- 
list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 3:10 PM
To:   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Launch!

 

Congrats!  Is Fall haulout in August?

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5843 - Release Date: 05/21/13

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Dennis C.]

Erik,

Put a couple drops of food coloring in the bilge at strategic points to see the 
ingress of water. The clear leakage will displace the dyed water and help you 
trace the leak. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

On May 21, 2013, at 2:25 PM, Erik Hillenmeyer  wrote:

> The leaks appears to be directly underneath the stringer.  in fact, if you 
> stick your finger down in the limber hole you can feel the squishiness of the 
> stringer core that is being washed away (i've pulled out little pieces of 
> it).  I'm assuming this foam material indicates the core is inactive.  I've 
> tried several times to completely dry this out by sponging out that void with 
> paper towels or a sponge and then try and feel the trickle, but this hasn't 
> proved very effective.
>  
> I spent the winter rebedding portlights, grab rails, etc that were all 
> leaking and had rain water intrusion pretty much licked by launch time.  I am 
> definitely seeing this without rain.  I manually pumped it out, left the boat 
> and came back 24 hours later (no rain, no running the engine) and took a 
> measurment of the water level.  I then pumped it out again and took a bucket 
> and refilled it to where it was when I pumped out - 2.5 gallons. 
>  
> Unfortunately, I can't see inside the stringer beyond what I can see looking 
> into the limber hole.  Without cutting into the stringer and removing that 
> foam I don't think I'm going to see the actual leak - unless anyone has some 
> suggestions.
>  
>  
>  
>  
> From: "Hoyt, Mike" 
> To: Erik Hillenmeyer ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 1:32 PM
> Subject: RE: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
> 
> If you are having the volume of water you have described accumulating each 
> day you should be able to see the leak.  I would bail and then spong out the 
> leak and remove every floorboard or access panel you can so that you can see 
> the trickles of water coming in.  All of this is assuming that it has not 
> been raining where you are the past week.
>  
> The keel moves a lot when sailing and most keel bolts do seem to loosen with 
> time.  Our first boat had water in bilge by middle of season and I sponged 
> out the bilge only to notoce the water was seeping in around one keel bolt.  
> I bought the appropirate sized sockets and tightened all the bolts while in 
> the water and the leak stopped.  On haulout at end of season we notciced 
> there was play in the keel and after that dropped and rebedded the keel.
>  
> On our next boat we accumulated water again.  this time it was from rainwater 
> and leaks and around mast etc ... many many hours worth of rebedding 
> everything and the boat is dry.
>  
> Hopefully the 35-3 allows you to see the inside of the hull aft of that 
> stringer so you can see where the water is coming from.
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Erik 
> Hillenmeyer
> Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 12:00 PM
> To: dwight veinot; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
> 
> I've definitely ruled that out and yes, the stern section is bone dry.  Also 
> water tanks were never filled and all thru hulls appear perfectly sealed.  
> This water accumulates after a day on the can, without running the engine or 
> sailing.
>  
> Erik Hillenmeyer
> C&C 35 MKIII, Slapshot
> Chicago, IL
> 
> From: dwight veinot 
> To: 'Erik Hillenmeyer' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 9:53 AM
> Subject: RE: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
> 
> Are you sure it’s not the prop shaft stuffing box that is leaking?  You said 
> the stern section was dry which would indicate it’s not the stuffing box but 
> just saying in case.   Sometimes a stuffing box will take time in the water 
> to swell after long winter storage.
>  
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Erik 
> Hillenmeyer
> Sent: May 21, 2013 11:22 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
>  
> The previous owner says the bilge was dry the last season he had it in the 
> water.  I know him well and trust him that he doesn't recall a grouding 
> either.  I know I haven't grounded it in the week I've had it in the water... 
>  I'm wondering what happened in those 18 months on the hard to create leak of 
> this size as soon as I launch when he saw nothing his last season with it? 
>  
>   
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com/
> Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5843 - Release Date:  05/21/13
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Indigo]

Erik,

There seems to be a huge contradiction in two statements of yours in two
different emails

 

“The previous owner says the bilge was dry the last season he had it in the
water”

 

And 

 

“I spent the winter rebedding portlights, grab rails, etc that were all
leaking and had rain water intrusion”

 

I can’t see how the bilge could possibly be dry with leaking ports, rails
etc.  Maybe these leaks disguised a leak from the keel.  But surely you
would have seen water EXITING from the sump/keel joint while the boat was on
the hard – even if only a slight weep – if water was getting to the bilge
from the ports/grab rails etc.

 

Jonathan

Indigo 35/3 Southport CT

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 5:12 PM
To: Erik Hillenmeyer; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

 

Erik,

 

Put a couple drops of food coloring in the bilge at strategic points to see
the ingress of water. The clear leakage will displace the dyed water and
help you trace the leak. 

 

Dennis C.

Touché 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone


On May 21, 2013, at 2:25 PM, Erik Hillenmeyer 
wrote:

The leaks appears to be directly underneath the stringer.  in fact, if you
stick your finger down in the limber hole you can feel the squishiness of
the stringer core that is being washed away (i've pulled out little pieces
of it).  I'm assuming this foam material indicates the core is inactive.
I've tried several times to completely dry this out by sponging out that
void with paper towels or a sponge and then try and feel the trickle, but
this hasn't proved very effective.

 

I spent the winter rebedding portlights, grab rails, etc that were all
leaking and had rain water intrusion pretty much licked by launch time.  I
am definitely seeing this without rain.  I manually pumped it out, left the
boat and came back 24 hours later (no rain, no running the engine) and took
a measurment of the water level.  I then pumped it out again and took a
bucket and refilled it to where it was when I pumped out - 2.5 gallons.  

 

Unfortunately, I can't see inside the stringer beyond what I can see looking
into the limber hole.  Without cutting into the stringer and removing that
foam I don't think I'm going to see the actual leak - unless anyone has some
suggestions.

 

 

 

 

From: "Hoyt, Mike" 
To: Erik Hillenmeyer ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 1:32 PM
Subject: RE: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

 

If you are having the volume of water you have described accumulating each
day you should be able to see the leak.  I would bail and then spong out the
leak and remove every floorboard or access panel you can so that you can see
the trickles of water coming in.  All of this is assuming that it has not
been raining where you are the past week.

 

The keel moves a lot when sailing and most keel bolts do seem to loosen with
time.  Our first boat had water in bilge by middle of season and I sponged
out the bilge only to notoce the water was seeping in around one keel bolt.
I bought the appropirate sized sockets and tightened all the bolts while in
the water and the leak stopped.  On haulout at end of season we notciced
there was play in the keel and after that dropped and rebedded the keel.

 

On our next boat we accumulated water again.  this time it was from
rainwater and leaks and around mast etc ... many many hours worth of
rebedding everything and the boat is dry.

 

Hopefully the 35-3 allows you to see the inside of the hull aft of that
stringer so you can see where the water is coming from.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Erik
Hillenmeyer
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 12:00 PM
To: dwight veinot; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

I've definitely ruled that out and yes, the stern section is bone dry.  Also
water tanks were never filled and all thru hulls appear perfectly sealed.
This water accumulates after a day on the can, without running the engine or
sailing.

 

Erik Hillenmeyer

C&C 35 MKIII, Slapshot

Chicago, IL

 

From: dwight veinot 
To: 'Erik Hillenmeyer' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 9:53 AM
Subject: RE: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

 

Are you sure it’s not the prop shaft stuffing box that is leaking?  You said
the stern section was dry which would indicate it’s not the stuffing box but
just saying in case.   Sometimes a stuffing box will take time in the water
to swell after long winter storage.

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Erik
Hillenmeyer
Sent: May 21, 2013 11:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

 

The previous owner says the bilge was dry the last season he had it in the
water.  I know him well and trust him that he doesn't recall a grouding
either.  I know I haven't grounded it in the week I've had it

Stus-List Touché splashes!

[Dennis C.]

Splashed Touché today in Pensacola.  Not a big deal since we only hauled out 15 
days ago but happy to be in the water for Memorial Day weekend in the Pensacola 
area. Sailed all the way from Mandeville to use this yard and contractor. 

No issues, just new Baltoplate, wet sand, a few touch ups to the boot stripe 
and some AwlCare on the paint.  

At launch, immediately noticed engine wasn't pumping much water. Was only 
moving 50 feet or so to a temporary slip so we got it moored and shut it down. 
Strainer clean but noticed water wasn't overtopping the strainer like normal. 
Impeller looked good but again, no water at pump intake. Changed impeller 
anyway. Stored the used one with the pile of other used ones. 

Pulled intake hose off pump and back flushed it with dock hose. Slight 
resistance then Whoosh, free flow. When I stopped, water flowed out of the 
intake. Engine pumping fine afterwards. Only thing I can figure is yard gang 
put something in the intake to prevent paint spray from entering intake. Odd. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Touché splashes! Intake plugged

[Richard N. Bush]

Dennis, I had a similar experience with having the intake plugged; when I 
bought my boat to Louisville from Jacksonville we discovered that the intake 
hole had been covered about 90% with faring compound, and it was stuck up into 
the hole so it couldn't be easily seen; in lookiong over the PO's records I 
found that they had a "mysterious" problem with engine overheating, and there 
had been work done to the hull in 2003I guess no ever thought to look at 
the intake!


Richard
1987 33-II Ohio River, Mile 584;



Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor 
Louisville, Kentucky 40202 
502-584-7255



-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. 
To: cnc-list 
Sent: Tue, May 21, 2013 5:30 pm
Subject: Stus-List Touché splashes!


Splashed Touché today in Pensacola.  Not a big deal since we only hauled out 15 
ays ago but happy to be in the water for Memorial Day weekend in the Pensacola 
rea. Sailed all the way from Mandeville to use this yard and contractor. 
No issues, just new Baltoplate, wet sand, a few touch ups to the boot stripe 
and 
ome AwlCare on the paint.  
At launch, immediately noticed engine wasn't pumping much water. Was only 
moving 
0 feet or so to a temporary slip so we got it moored and shut it down. Strainer 
lean but noticed water wasn't overtopping the strainer like normal. Impeller 
ooked good but again, no water at pump intake. Changed impeller anyway. Stored 
he used one with the pile of other used ones. 
Pulled intake hose off pump and back flushed it with dock hose. Slight 
esistance then Whoosh, free flow. When I stopped, water flowed out of the 
ntake. Engine pumping fine afterwards. Only thing I can figure is yard gang put 
omething in the intake to prevent paint spray from entering intake. Odd. 
Dennis C.
ouché 35-1 #83
andeville, LA
Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List NOAA Mobile app for Android

[Bob Moriarty]

Stevan,
I downloaded to my Nexus 7 via the Google Play link on Bill's
http://www.nauticalcharts.noaa.gov/mynoaacharts/
link.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL


On Tue, May 21, 2013 at 3:29 PM, Stevan Plavsa wrote:

> Bill, how did you download this on your nexus 7? I'm getting a "this isn't
> supported on your device" from the google play store.
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> On Mon, May 20, 2013 at 6:43 PM, Bob Moriarty  wrote:
>
>> Bill,
>> Thanks for the info. Downloaded and did a quick test drive on a Nexus 7.
>> I also downloaded the Coastal Pilot for my neck of the woods.
>> The open source licenses show it's based on MX Mariner (Will Kamp), which
>> costs a whopping $6.99 (USD). Will contributed to the OpenCPN effort (also
>> open source) and then took it into the Android world.
>> Bob M
>> Ox 33-1
>> Jax, FL
>>
>>
>>> ** **
>>>
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>>>
>>>
>>
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>>
>>
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control

[Ken Heaton]

This is how the engine stop is arranged on our Yanmar.  Our engine
was changed around 2001 and this is what was fitted at that time.

Push and hold to stop.

Ken H.


On 21 May 2013 11:30, Rick Brass  wrote:

> The Universal M35B in Imzadi does not have the original pull cable to stop
> the engine. Instead, there is a solenoid mounted on an L bracket on the aft
> starboard side of the engine block. The coil of the solenoid pulls in a
> “plunger” which pulls a thin metal rod attached to the shutoff lever on the
> injection pump. When the solenoid is deactivated, the rubber boot that
> covers the plunger pulls the plunger forward and releases the stop lever.
> All this is activated by a push button installed in the engine panel and
> powered by the +12v feed to the panel.
>
> ** **
>
> It works well for me, and eliminates one cable run. Westerbeke sells a
> remote start/stop panel, so you could probably identify all the needed
> parts fairly easily (you would only need the remote stop parts for your
> engine. 
>
> ** **
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Edd
> Schillay
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 21, 2013 9:45 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control
>
> ** **
>
> Listers,
>
> ** **
>
> I'm looking to move the location of the T pull-stop control
> for my engine on the Enterprise (C&C 37+). 
>
> ** **
>
> Currently, it's mounted horizontally near the control panel
> and very close to the cockpit floor -- which is a difficult angle to pull
> from when you're at the helm. 
>
> ** **
>
> I was curious where other owners have theirs mounted (if you
> have one -- I know some engines just throttle down to off) and what
> hardware you used to put it there.
>
>
>   
>
>   All the best,
>
> ** **
>
>   Edd
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
>   Edd M. Schillay
>
>   Starship Enterprise
>
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>
>   City Island, NY 
>
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> Website
> 
>
> ** **
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control

[Chuck S]

Hi Edd, 
Our pull stop cable is in an awkward spot near a stern cleat on the same side 
of the boat as the control panel. The original tee fell overboard and I 
subsituted a round knob that works just as well. I heard some boats locate the 
stop cable just inside the companioway and considered moving it, but after 
procrastinating long enough I got used to it where it is, and added a nice 
label. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: "Edd Schillay"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 9:45:08 AM 
Subject: Stus-List Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control 

Listers, 


I'm looking to move the location of the T pull-stop control for my engine on 
the Enterprise (C&C 37+). 


Currently, it's mounted horizontally near the control panel and very close to 
the cockpit floor -- which is a difficult angle to pull from when you're at the 
helm. 


I was curious where other owners have theirs mounted (if you have one -- I know 
some engines just throttle down to off) and what hardware you used to put it 
there. 





All the best, 


Edd 




Edd M. Schillay 
Starship Enterprise 
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B 
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website 

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Stus-List Avalanche is back afloat

[Pierre Tremblay]

Avalanche is back on top of Neptune's domain. Launch on Friday at 0800, and 
mast was back on with everything in place by 1600.
 
Only one little fear during the process, the engine did not fire up on the 
first try. I had a fuel leak at the fuel filter last autumn, and during winter, 
air got into the injection system. Had to bleed all 4 injectors. Original paint 
was not even broken on the injector lines nuts.
 
Saturday and Sunday was a nice 10 hours cruise up the St-Lawrence to Avalanche 
summer heaven. Motored all the way up, except for 1 hour of wind when we pulled 
out the genoa.
 
Good sailing to everyone.
 
Pierre Tremblay
Avalanche, #54988
C&C 38-3 WK___
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Re: Stus-List Avalanche is back afloat

[Chuck S]

Great news! 
Curious where you launched and where Avalanche summers on the St Lawrence? 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: "Pierre Tremblay"  
To: "C&C Mailing List"  
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 6:29:53 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Avalanche is back afloat 



Avalanche is back on top of Neptune's domain. Launch on Friday at 0800, and 
mast was back on with everything in place by 1600. 

Only one little fear during the process, the engine did not fire up on the 
first try. I had a fuel leak at the fuel filter last autumn, and during winter, 
air got into the injection system. Had to bleed all 4 injectors. Original paint 
was not even broken on the injector lines nuts. 

Saturday and Sunday was a nice 10 hours cruise up the St-Lawrence to Avalanche 
summer heaven. Motored all the way up, except for 1 hour of wind when we pulled 
out the genoa. 

Good sailing to everyone. 

Pierre Tremblay 
Avalanche, #54988 
C&C 38-3 WK 
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Re: Stus-List Avalanche is back afloat

[Danny Haughey]

That's terrific!  Sounds like an awesome first cruise!  I spent a summer at 
Alexandria bay as a boy one year, a long, long time ago.  Very fond memories!


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: Pierre Tremblay  
Date: 05/21/2013  6:29 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: C&C Mailing List  
Subject: Stus-List Avalanche is back afloat 
 
Avalanche is back on top of Neptune's domain. Launch on Friday at 0800, and 
mast was back on with everything in place by 1600.
 
Only one little fear during the process, the engine did not fire up on the 
first try. I had a fuel leak at the fuel filter last autumn, and during winter, 
air got into the injection system. Had to bleed all 4 injectors. Original paint 
was not even broken on the injector lines nuts.
 
Saturday and Sunday was a nice 10 hours cruise up the St-Lawrence to Avalanche 
summer heaven. Motored all the way up, except for 1 hour of wind when we pulled 
out the genoa.
 
Good sailing to everyone.
 
Pierre Tremblay
Avalanche, #54988
C&C 38-3 WK___
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Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 history was Marine vs Automotive parts

[John irvin]

Original design Ferguson 4 was a farm tractor engine  from the 20,s___
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Stus-List Pic of Calypso from Race to the Straits 2013

[Martin DeYoung]

Here is link to a pic of an old C&C going to weather.  (I purchased copies from 
Jan's for both my wall and computer desk top.)

We were racing double-handed.  The spin pole is on the mast to keep the heavy 
#1 sheets from tangling in the baby stay.  I estimate we tacked 25 to 30 times 
over the 30 mile course out to Port Townsend.  Fortunately the return race on 
Sunday was all downwind giving the crew a well-deserved rest from grinding.

http://janpix.smugmug.com/Boats/Race-to-the-Straits-2013/29291605_WVLQ3n#!i=2497822185&k=Dn8nxVV&lb=1&s=L

Martin
Calypso
1970 C&C 43
Seattle

[cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

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Re: Stus-List Pic of Calypso from Race to the Straits 2013

[dwight veinot]

Martin

 

That's a beauty, just love the lines of those C&C boats, do you know how
many of that design were made, that was a decent sized sailboat in 1970 and
still is by my standards.Calypso looks to have a nice heel angle on the
weather leg, very comfortable for crew, light air I guess, looks like she's
carrying a No. 1 headsail or bigger

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin
DeYoung
Sent: May 21, 2013 9:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Pic of Calypso from Race to the Straits 2013

 

 

Here is link to a pic of an old C&C going to weather.  (I purchased copies
from Jan's for both my wall and computer desk top.)

 

We were racing double-handed.  The spin pole is on the mast to keep the
heavy #1 sheets from tangling in the baby stay.  I estimate we tacked 25 to
30 times over the 30 mile course out to Port Townsend.  Fortunately the
return race on Sunday was all downwind giving the crew a well-deserved rest
from grinding.

 

http://janpix.smugmug.com/Boats/Race-to-the-Straits-2013/29291605_WVLQ3n#!i=
2497822185&k=Dn8nxVV&lb=1&s=L

 

Martin

Calypso

1970 C&C 43

Seattle


cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5843 - Release Date: 05/21/13

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Jake Brodersen]

Alan,

 

The yard that did my R&R used 5200 and then glassed over the seam.  I doubt my 
keel will ever separate from the hull.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III

Midnight Mistress

Hampton VA

   

cid:image001.png@01CE3D06.5A990940

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alan Bergen
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2013 9:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

 

Erik:

Despite Chuck's expertise, I don't recommend using 5200, or even doing the 
repair as he suggests.  I did a R&R of my keel, several years ago, and never 
had my problem return.  My problem? When the boat was hauled, the keel was 
loose, so loose that I could move it.  Upon removing the keel, we discovered a 
void around the forward keel bolt.  When we flushed each keel bolt hole, a foul 
smell emanated from the forward keel bolt hole.  AThe yard ground the top of 
the keel and athe bottom of the stub, epoxied the keel back 0onto the stub, and 
filled the void with about a gallon of epoxy.  After tightening the keel bolts, 
they covered the smile with fiberglass cloth and epoxy.  The smile never 
returned, and no leaks after many years.

Whenever you use 5200, it's almost impossible to remove the parts that were 
assembled with it.

Alan Bergen
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

 

  _  

 

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Re: Stus-List Pic of Calypso from Race to the Straits 2013

[Chuck S]

Calypso looks beautiful.  Thanks for sharing the link.  I skimmed through the whole selection looking for more shots of your boat.  What a great event!   ChuckResolute1990 C&C 34RAtlantic City, NJFrom: "Martin DeYoung" To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 8:12:41 PMSubject: Stus-List Pic of Calypso from Race to the Straits 2013







 
Here is link to a pic of an old C&C going to weather.  (I purchased copies from Jan’s for both my wall and computer desk top.)
 
We were racing double-handed.  The spin pole is on the mast to keep the heavy #1 sheets from tangling in the baby stay.  I estimate we tacked 25 to 30 times over the 30 mile course out to Port
 Townsend.  Fortunately the return race on Sunday was all downwind giving the crew a well-deserved rest from grinding.
 
http://janpix.smugmug.com/Boats/Race-to-the-Straits-2013/29291605_WVLQ3n#!i=2497822185&k=Dn8nxVV&lb=1&s=L
 
Martin
Calypso
1970 C&C 43
Seattle


 



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Re: Stus-List Pic of Calypso from Race to the Straits 2013

[Russ & Melody]

Martin...
That looks really good. I'm glad you got out on the day it didn't 
rain on the west coast.
(nudge nudge. don't let 'em know it can be like this many days, all 
year round. The poor lads are still seeing ice on some lakes and even 
hafta haul the boats INTO the water in the spring.. not outta the 
water, fer christ's sake)


We had a grand weekend on the 'Round Saltspring Island Race. A few of 
us lucky boats got through Sansum Narrows and finished before 
midnight... the first ones of the other 80 boats started to show 
around 09:00 on Sunday. (race cut-off @ 10:00)

http://saltspringsailing.ca/roundsaltspring/results/

Cheers, Russ

At 05:12 PM 21/05/2013, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/related;
boundary="_004_23EAE197CC1B594FA8793397EBCD357D7B4563DMI3DMIlocal_";
type="multipart/alternative"


Here is link to a pic of an old C&C going to weather.  (I purchased 
copies from Jan's for both my wall and computer desk top.)


We were racing double-handed.  The spin pole is on the mast to keep 
the heavy #1 sheets from tangling in the baby stay.  I estimate we 
tacked 25 to 30 times over the 30 mile course out to Port 
Townsend.  Fortunately the return race on Sunday was all downwind 
giving the crew a well-deserved rest from grinding.


http://janpix.smugmug.com/Boats/Race-to-the-Straits-2013/29291605_WVLQ3n#!i=2497822185&k=Dn8nxVV&lb=1&s=L

Martin
Calypso
1970 C&C 43
Seattle

cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F




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Re: Stus-List OpenCPN fans?

[Russ & Melody]

Hey Joe,

I've used the old CPN on a Panasonic CF-48 (race boat) and Thinkpad 
42 (my boat), XP SP2 or 3, with okay results for the geek oriented. 
Sometimes it would need some coaching on the comm ports for GPS & AIS 
data. So it wasn't good for the skipper who has the CF-48 onboard. He 
also has a plotter so it was a minor irritation.


I am looking forward to getting both machines loaded with the current 
OpenCPN, with AIS. I also have the CM-93 to install (for evaluation 
purposes). Hopefully all this is done before the VanIsle360 starts.


Too bad their world chart effort hit the ditch last year.

Cheers, Russ


At 12:02 PM 21/05/2013, you wrote:
I just upgraded the boat computer from a ThinkPad 600E to 600X*. Now 
I am cruising with Pentium III power instead of Pentium II I can get 
OpenCPN working quite well. Anyone else using it? I really like the 
tides, currents, and AIS functions. I still don't like ENC charts 
much, but the raster charts work great.


* for $45 shipped. Thanks FleaBay!

Joe Della Barba
Coquina

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Re: Stus-List OpenCPN fans?

[Jim Watts]

What world chart issue is/was this?


On 21 May 2013 21:51, Russ & Melody  wrote:

> Hey Joe,
>
> I've used the old CPN on a Panasonic CF-48 (race boat) and Thinkpad 42 (my
> boat), XP SP2 or 3, with okay results for the geek oriented. Sometimes it
> would need some coaching on the comm ports for GPS & AIS data. So it wasn't
> good for the skipper who has the CF-48 onboard. He also has a plotter so it
> was a minor irritation.
>
> I am looking forward to getting both machines loaded with the current
> OpenCPN, with AIS. I also have the CM-93 to install (for evaluation
> purposes). Hopefully all this is done before the VanIsle360 starts.
>
> Too bad their world chart effort hit the ditch last year.
>
> Cheers, Russ
>
>
>
> At 12:02 PM 21/05/2013, you wrote:
>
>> I just upgraded the boat computer from a ThinkPad 600E to 600X*. Now I am
>> cruising with Pentium III power instead of Pentium II I can get OpenCPN
>> working quite well. Anyone else using it? I really like the tides,
>> currents, and AIS functions. I still don't like ENC charts much, but the
>> raster charts work great.
>>
>> * for $45 shipped. Thanks FleaBay!
>>
>> Joe Della Barba
>> Coquina
>>
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>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>
>
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>



-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List OpenCPN fans?

[Russ & Melody]

Hi Jim,

The CPN community was gathering 2700 world charts posted on the 
Internet into a single source file when a US govment agency trashed 
the effort... or something like that. You need to read a few pages at 
the beginning and near the end of the thread to get the jist.


http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f134/charts-ii-nga-2700-charts-63396.html

great guys and a valiant effort... for naught perhaps.

Cheers, Russ


At 09:59 PM 21/05/2013, you wrote:

What world chart issue is/was this?


On 21 May 2013 21:51, Russ & Melody 
<russ...@telus.net> wrote:

Hey Joe,

I've used the old CPN on a Panasonic CF-48 (race boat) and Thinkpad 
42 (my boat), XP SP2 or 3, with okay results for the geek oriented. 
Sometimes it would need some coaching on the comm ports for GPS & 
AIS data. So it wasn't good for the skipper who has the CF-48 
onboard. He also has a plotter so it was a minor irritation.


I am looking forward to getting both machines loaded with the 
current OpenCPN, with AIS. I also have the CM-93 to install (for 
evaluation purposes). Hopefully all this is done before the VanIsle360 starts.


Too bad their world chart effort hit the ditch last year.

Cheers, Russ



At 12:02 PM 21/05/2013, you wrote:
I just upgraded the boat computer from a ThinkPad 600E to 600X*. Now 
I am cruising with Pentium III power instead of Pentium II I can get 
OpenCPN working quite well. Anyone else using it? I really like the 
tides, currents, and AIS functions. I still don't like ENC charts 
much, but the raster charts work great.


* for $45 shipped. Thanks FleaBay!

Joe Della Barba
Coquina

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--
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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