-----Original Message----- From: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 7:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 88, Issue 66

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So odd that it seems to be coming from aft the keel bolts, Are you sure it is not the stuffing box on the prop shaft that is leaking and running forward into your bilge. How about fresh water or water heater tank? Too bad, I guess being in Lake Michigan the salt water test is irrelevant.



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Today's Topics:

  1. Re:  Bow chocks, pennants and mooring (David Knecht)
  2. Re:  Centerboard issue (robertlma...@gmail.com)
  3. Re:  Bow chocks, pennants and mooring (Joel Aronson)
  4.  Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control (Edd Schillay)
  5. Re:  35-3 Leak (Erik Hillenmeyer)
  6. Re:  Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control (Rick Brass)
  7. Re:  Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control (Joel Aronson)
  8. Re:  35-3 Leak (Thomas Mikos)
  9. Re:  Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control (Edd Schillay)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 09:23:26 -0400
From: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bow chocks, pennants and mooring
Message-ID: <45240ad0-79bb-4098-997d-fbdce0f54...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi Joel- The pennants are not making contact with the gel coat anywhere. They are looping over the stainless bow fitting which is part of the anchor roller and extends all the way to the first stantion, if my memory is correct (rarely). So it is effectively a stainless rub rail at the bow. I guess they could chafe more on the stainless than through a chock, but there is chafe guards on the pennants (pendant? which is correct?). Dave

On May 21, 2013, at 9:11 AM, Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> wrote:

David,

The issue becomes chafe and protecting the fiberglass. I would either replace the chocks or add stainless rub rail (strakes?). Otherwise, the gel coat will be gone in no time.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Tue, May 21, 2013 at 9:06 AM, David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com> wrote: I moved my boat to its mooring last weekend and discovered that the bow chocks are quite different from my C&C 34. Instead of open chocks to lead the pennants, there are closed slits. These are fine for the docklines used in a slip, but are not nearly big enough for the twin pennants on my mooring. I simply ran the pennants over the bow and looped them over the cleats, but I am concerned as to whether this is sufficiently secure. THoughts? Dave







David Knecht
Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 13:29:51 +0000
From: robertlma...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Centerboard issue
Message-ID:
<503714389-1369142991-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1084868068-@b27.c2.bise6.blackberry>

Content-Type: text/plain

The original of that drawing is most likely in the C&C Collection at the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes at Kingston (ON). If you contact them through their website you could probably obtain your own digital copy for a modest price. An institution well worth supporting in its own right, but even more because of the C&C Collection. They will also be mounting a major Yachting Exhibit in 2014.

Rob
Sent on the TELUS Mobility network with BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: "Don Wagner" <donwag...@comcast.net>
Sender: "CnC-List" <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 22:28:06
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Centerboard issue

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------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 09:34:16 -0400
From: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bow chocks, pennants and mooring
Message-ID:
<CAEL16P8LaUY0AGEsH=cuzktav4botnntqcqnruh7ncpntye...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

David,

It sounds like chafe is not likely in calm conditions, but my secondary
concern would be that the mooring pennant could get caught on the roller if
the boat were to bob up and down. Also, without chocks the boat will swing
more from side to side.

Maybe run the line through large O rings and shackle them to the toe rail?
http://www.marinepartdepot.com/ststori7widi.html


Joel


On Tue, May 21, 2013 at 9:23 AM, David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>wrote:

Hi Joel- The pennants are not making contact with the gel coat anywhere.
 They are looping over the stainless bow fitting which is part of the
anchor roller and extends all the way to the first stantion, if my memory
is correct (rarely). So it is effectively a stainless rub rail at the bow.
 I guess they could chafe more on the stainless than through a chock, but
there is chafe guards on the pennants (pendant? which is correct?).  Dave

On May 21, 2013, at 9:11 AM, Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> wrote:

David,

The issue becomes chafe and protecting the fiberglass.  I would either
replace the chocks or add stainless rub rail (strakes?).  Otherwise, the
gel coat will be gone in no time.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Tue, May 21, 2013 at 9:06 AM, David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>wrote:

I moved my boat to its mooring last weekend and discovered that the bow
chocks are quite different from my C&C 34. Instead of open chocks to lead
the pennants, there are closed slits.  These are fine for the docklines
used in a slip, but are not nearly big enough for the twin pennants on my
mooring.  I simply ran the pennants over the bow and looped them over the
cleats, but I am concerned as to whether this is sufficiently secure.
 THoughts?  Dave






David Knecht
Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com




--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 09:45:08 -0400
From: Edd Schillay <e...@schillay.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Stus-List Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control
Message-ID: <6ec88dcd-5110-4bdb-a78b-84e50e5c5...@schillay.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Listers,

I'm looking to move the location of the T pull-stop control for my engine on the Enterprise (C&C 37+).

Currently, it's mounted horizontally near the control panel and very close to the cockpit floor -- which is a difficult angle to pull from when you're at the helm.

I was curious where other owners have theirs mounted (if you have one -- I know some engines just throttle down to off) and what hardware you used to put it there.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website

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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 07:21:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Erik Hillenmeyer <erik_hawk...@yahoo.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
Message-ID:
<1369146101.6300.yahoomail...@web163504.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

The previous owner says the bilge was dry?the last season he had it in the water.? I know him well and trust him that he doesn't recall a grouding either.? I know I haven't grounded it in the?week I've had it in the?water...? I'm wondering what happened in those 18 months on the hard to create leak of this size as soon as I launch when he saw nothing his last season with it??



________________________________
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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 10:30:41 -0400
From: "Rick Brass" <rickbr...@earthlink.net>
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control
Message-ID: <008301ce562f$c65e8d20$531ba760$@net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

The Universal M35B in Imzadi does not have the original pull cable to stop
the engine. Instead, there is a solenoid mounted on an L bracket on the aft
starboard side of the engine block. The coil of the solenoid pulls in a
"plunger" which pulls a thin metal rod attached to the shutoff lever on the
injection pump. When the solenoid is deactivated, the rubber boot that
covers the plunger pulls the plunger forward and releases the stop lever.
All this is activated by a push button installed in the engine panel and
powered by the +12v feed to the panel.



It works well for me, and eliminates one cable run. Westerbeke sells a
remote start/stop panel, so you could probably identify all the needed parts
fairly easily (you would only need the remote stop parts for your engine.



Rick Brass

Washington, NC







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 9:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control



Listers,



           I'm looking to move the location of the T pull-stop control for
my engine on the Enterprise (C&C 37+).



           Currently, it's mounted horizontally near the control panel and
very close to the cockpit floor -- which is a difficult angle to pull from
when you're at the helm.



           I was curious where other owners have theirs mounted (if you
have one -- I know some engines just throttle down to off) and what hardware
you used to put it there.




         All the best,



         Edd





         Edd M. Schillay

         Starship Enterprise

         C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

         City Island, NY

         Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
<http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/>



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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 10:35:37 -0400
From: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control
Message-ID:
<cael16p9fwo87bk9tqpmcwnq0+a4jbs-1rmxynr9r6m68zde...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"

Edd,

Do you have a Yanmar?  If the cable is corroded it is hard to pull (I broke
my instrument panel last year mine was so corroded).  You might need a new
cable.  The new one requires no effort.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Tue, May 21, 2013 at 10:30 AM, Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net>wrote:

The Universal M35B in Imzadi does not have the original pull cable to stop
the engine. Instead, there is a solenoid mounted on an L bracket on the aft
starboard side of the engine block. The coil of the solenoid pulls in a
?plunger? which pulls a thin metal rod attached to the shutoff lever on the
injection pump. When the solenoid is deactivated, the rubber boot that
covers the plunger pulls the plunger forward and releases the stop lever.
All this is activated by a push button installed in the engine panel and
powered by the +12v feed to the panel.****

** **

It works well for me, and eliminates one cable run. Westerbeke sells a
remote start/stop panel, so you could probably identify all the needed
parts fairly easily (you would only need the remote stop parts for your
engine. ****

** **

Rick Brass****

Washington, NC****

** **

** **

** **

*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Edd
Schillay
*Sent:* Tuesday, May 21, 2013 9:45 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Stus-List Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control****

** **

Listers,****

** **

            I'm looking to move the location of the T pull-stop control
for my engine on the Enterprise (C&C 37+). ****

** **

            Currently, it's mounted horizontally near the control panel
and very close to the cockpit floor -- which is a difficult angle to pull
from when you're at the helm. ****

** **

            I was curious where other owners have theirs mounted (if you
have one -- I know some engines just throttle down to off) and what
hardware you used to put it there.****


          ****

          All the best,****

** **

          Edd****

** **

** **

          Edd M. Schillay****

          Starship Enterprise****

          C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B****

          City Island, NY ****

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website<http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/>
****

** **

_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com




--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 07:44:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Thomas Mikos <cc33s...@yahoo.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
Message-ID:
<1369147475.33486.yahoomail...@web120401.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi Erik,

The obvious question is how did the hull keel joint look at launch? Separation? Previous repair noted ? Grounding with compression fractures in the aft part of the keel . All of this could have been repaired cosmetically and upon stress could leak. I have a 33-2? with? the same structural work up; and when the mast was down I just happen to put a crescent wrench on the keel bolt nut under the mast and found it to be loose. Surprise but not uncommon since all the loading of the mast is at this location and the nut backs off. But your problem is aft of this location which is unusual, which makes me think of the possibility of a hard grounding.

PS My boat also has survived with just a manual pump for 27 years.

Tom
Escape
C&C 33-2
Hammond Indiana?




________________________________
From: Tim Goodyear <timg...@gmail.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 3:44 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak



Erik, I have just spent a large number of boat bucks replacing the tabbing in the keel stub and repairing wet core above the stub. ?We also had a recurring crack at the rear of the keel that I hope is finally dealt with, but was seeping water (more slowly than yours). ?If there was nothing obvious before launch, and you're not going to have sleepless nights worrying, get an automatic bilge pump and a bigger battery and enjoy your season. ?Mojito is still in the yard...

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On May 21, 2013, at 12:51 AM, "erik_hawk...@yahoo.com" <erik_hawk...@yahoo.com> wrote:


Thanks for the welcome!


Any issue with tightening in the water? I've read conflicting thoughts on the subject. I'm also hoping based on where the leak is missing the one bolt will be okay until end of season. The PO tells me they were tightened 3 or 4 years ago and rebedded 15 years ago.? I was surprised at th he lack of a pump but it made it 28 years without.


Erik


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> wrote:


Erik,


Welcome!
Was the keel joint tight before the boat was launched?
There is a keel bolt under the mast, but you can reach the others and it sounds like the leak is aft of the mast.
Can't believe there was no automatic pump!

Joel
Sent from my iPad

On May 20, 2013, at 5:03 PM, Erik Hillenmeyer <erik_hawk...@yahoo.com> wrote:


Hello,
?
Been following on here for a while but never posted.
?
I have a new-to-me 1984 C&C 35 MKIII on Lake Michigan.? When we launched six days ago I noticed a large amount of water in the bilge when I would go to the boat.? Approximately 2.5 gallons every 24 hours.? I have narrowed the leak down to what I assume is a hull/keel joint issue.?
?
After checking all the obvious sources for this much water (thru hull, tanks, etc, etc)?I finally noticed that all the water was coming from a limber hole in the stringer just forward of the?aft most keel bolt.? The water is NOTcoming out this limber hole because it's?flowing through there from a higher point in the bilge - it's?flooding up from underneath the stringer.? The bilge area aft of this?stringer is dusty dry and?I've elminated all other?sources of water.
?
The first thing I'm?in the process of doing is installing an automatic bilge pump and float switch (PO never had one).??
?
I also plan on tightening the keel bolts as soon?as?I get access to a torque?wrench and an extension that?can reach the 2 feet to the deepest part of the sump where one of the keel bolts is located.? I'm hoping this?is some help in stopping or reducing the leak.??The sailing season is very short here and?hauling out now would cost us a big chunk of sailing, so I'm willing to try anything to stay in.
?
I've thrown this out on some other blogs, but wanted to know if other C&C owners have experienced this issue or have some solutions for getting her through the season.
?
Thanks,
?
Erik
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_______________________________________________
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 10:47:18 -0400
From: Edd Schillay <e...@schillay.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control
Message-ID: <ffdb0b66-683f-4d46-aad8-c7a13d0a0...@schillay.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"

Joel,

I have a Universal. The cable works fine -- it's just at a tough angle and I want to move it.

However, Rick has me fully intrigued with the remote option. Any lead as to where I can find the parts online??



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website

On May 21, 2013, at 10:35 AM, Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> wrote:

Edd,

Do you have a Yanmar? If the cable is corroded it is hard to pull (I broke my instrument panel last year mine was so corroded). You might need a new cable. The new one requires no effort.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Tue, May 21, 2013 at 10:30 AM, Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net> wrote: The Universal M35B in Imzadi does not have the original pull cable to stop the engine. Instead, there is a solenoid mounted on an L bracket on the aft starboard side of the engine block. The coil of the solenoid pulls in a ?plunger? which pulls a thin metal rod attached to the shutoff lever on the injection pump. When the solenoid is deactivated, the rubber boot that covers the plunger pulls the plunger forward and releases the stop lever. All this is activated by a push button installed in the engine panel and powered by the +12v feed to the panel.



It works well for me, and eliminates one cable run. Westerbeke sells a remote start/stop panel, so you could probably identify all the needed parts fairly easily (you would only need the remote stop parts for your engine.



Rick Brass

Washington, NC







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 9:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control



Listers,



I'm looking to move the location of the T pull-stop control for my engine on the Enterprise (C&C 37+).



Currently, it's mounted horizontally near the control panel and very close to the cockpit floor -- which is a difficult angle to pull from when you're at the helm.



I was curious where other owners have theirs mounted (if you have one -- I know some engines just throttle down to off) and what hardware you used to put it there.




          All the best,



          Edd





          Edd M. Schillay

          Starship Enterprise

          C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

          City Island, NY

          Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website




_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com




--
Joel
301 541 8551
_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 88, Issue 66
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