Re: Stus-List tips

[Josh Muckley]

1. could have been as simple as something sitting on the deck prior to the
survey or the routing of a water line inside the boat.  Repairs could be
costly but then again it could be nothing.  Thermal imaging sounds
promising.

2.  Yep, factor in $4k in discounts for repairs.  If YOU get the work done
you will know what was done and that it was done right.  You may not find a
used boat without something wrong with the rudder...it just happens.

3.  Reverse is more load than forward so as long as there are no bad noises
or vibrations the engine/transmission is probably ok not reaching full RPM
in reverse.  Prop may also be set a little too aggressive.  Not hard to fix
and not really a problem especially if it is only reverse.  Feel it out
during the sea trial.

Seems like by having the standard survey previously done it would be more
cost effective now to get a engine, rig, and thermal survey.  Skip getting
the standard survey unless the bank needs it.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+

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On Feb 28, 2013 10:33 PM, "David Knecht"  wrote:

> Since the advice has been so helpful, I am going to move to the next step.
>  Perhaps this is becoming a group buying decision!  The broker sent me the
> survey they had done before taking the boat in trade in September.   Turns
> out the surveyor is one of 3 that I contacted about surveying for me and
> had not heard back from yet.  I am not sure how this affects my doing a
> survey, but he did not do a thermal imaging scan as was recommended by
> Joanna and David and I will likely hire one who does, as it seems a
> worthwhile investment with the cored hull.  There were a few things in the
> survey of note:
>
>1.
>
>**1.  There is elevated moisture present in the starboard side deck
>starting from the spreacher (??) blocks and running forward for 15”. The
>deck was thoroughly sounded and found to be solid. No repairs are necessary
>at this time, however the area should be monitored annually with repairs
>undertaken if conditions change.
> 2.
>
>**2.  Both sides of the rudder have voids present between the outer
>skin and the core material of the rudder. The areas measure about one foot
>in width and about three feet in length. It is recommended to have the
>rudder repaired in the off season after it is thoroughly dried.
>
>3.  The engine would not achieve a wide open throttle when the
>transmission was put into reverse on several occasions. An inspection of
>the max propeller was undertaken with no issues noted in its operation. It
>is recommended to contact the propeller and transmission manufacture to
>find out if what if anything is out of order.
>
> The second does not surprise me as I had a similar issue with my previous
> C&C 34 and would request that to be fixed before purchase.  I am not sure
> what to make of the first and third.  Comments?  Thanks- Dave
>
> David Knecht, Ph.D.
> Professor and Head of Microscopy Facility
> Department of Molecular and Cell Biology
> U-3125
> 91 N. Eagleville Rd.
> University of Connecticut
> Storrs, CT 06269
> 860-486-2200
> 860-486-4331 (fax)
>
>
>
>
>
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Stus-List Thanks for mast tips

[Joe at Zialater]

Thanks for all of the great ideas on mast maintenance/upgrading.  I now have
a much longer to-do list.

Joe
1975 30 MK1
Zia 
Mayo, MD..



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Stus-List tips

[Robert Abbott]

Josh Muckley wrote: "Skip getting the standard survey unless the bank 
needs it."


Possibly more important, find out what your insurance company requires 
regarding a 'recent survey'.


Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.





On 2013/03/01 4:44 AM, Josh Muckley wrote:


1. could have been as simple as something sitting on the deck prior to 
the survey or the routing of a water line inside the boat.  Repairs 
could be costly but then again it could be nothing.  Thermal imaging 
sounds promising.


2.  Yep, factor in $4k in discounts for repairs.  If YOU get the work 
done you will know what was done and that it was done right.  You may 
not find a used boat without something wrong with the rudder...it just 
happens.


3.  Reverse is more load than forward so as long as there are no bad 
noises or vibrations the engine/transmission is probably ok not 
reaching full RPM in reverse.  Prop may also be set a little too 
aggressive.  Not hard to fix and not really a problem especially if it 
is only reverse.  Feel it out during the sea trial.


Seems like by having the standard survey previously done it would be 
more cost effective now to get a engine, rig, and thermal survey.  
Skip getting the standard survey unless the bank needs it.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+

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On Feb 28, 2013 10:33 PM, "David Knecht" > wrote:


Since the advice has been so helpful, I am going to move to the
next step.  Perhaps this is becoming a group buying decision!  The
broker sent me the survey they had done before taking the boat in
trade in September.   Turns out the surveyor is one of 3 that I
contacted about surveying for me and had not heard back from yet.
 I am not sure how this affects my doing a survey, but he did not
do a thermal imaging scan as was recommended by Joanna and David
and I will likely hire one who does, as it seems a worthwhile
investment with the cored hull.  There were a few things in the
survey of note:

1.

**1.  There is elevated moisture present in the starboard side
deck starting from the spreacher (??) blocks and running
forward for 15". The deck was thoroughly sounded and found to
be solid. No repairs are necessary at this time, however the
area should be monitored annually with repairs undertaken if
conditions change.

2.

**2.  Both sides of the rudder have voids present between the
outer skin and the core material of the rudder. The areas
measure about one foot in width and about three feet in
length. It is recommended to have the rudder repaired in the
off season after it is thoroughly dried.

3.  The engine would not achieve a wide open throttle when the
transmission was put into reverse on several occasions. An
inspection of the max propeller was undertaken with no issues
noted in its operation. It is recommended to contact the
propeller and transmission manufacture to find out if what if
anything is out of order.

The second does not surprise me as I had a similar issue with my
previous C&C 34 and would request that to be fixed before
purchase.  I am not sure what to make of the first and third.
 Comments?  Thanks- Dave

David Knecht, Ph.D.
Professor and Head of Microscopy Facility
Department of Molecular and Cell Biology
U-3125
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
University of Connecticut
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200 
860-486-4331  (fax)





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Re: Stus-List Aluminum toerails - cosmetic improvement

[Dennis C.]

I have a piece of line laying in the low spot on each toe rail.  The ends of 
the line go through the toe rail about 2-3 holes apart and hang down a foot or 
so away from the side of the boat.  The lines wick water over the side so it 
doesn't go out through the holes.  Reduced the streaking.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




>
> From: Chuck S 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 11:44 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Aluminum toerails - cosmetic improvement
> 
>
>No, The streaks are definitely where rain washes through the holes in the toe 
>rail, predominently just forward of each stanchion base.  It's just dirt, and 
>can be washed off if caught early.  My friend waxed his toe rails and it made 
>a big difference.  
>
>
>Chuck
>Resolute
>1990 C&C 34R
>Atlantic City, NJ
>
>
>From: "David Knecht" 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 10:49:18 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Aluminum toerails - cosmetic improvement
>
>Hi Chuck-  I thought the black streaks were from the butyl bedding compound in 
>which case treating the toe rail will have no effect.  Dave
>
>
>On Feb 27, 2013, at 8:07 PM, Chuck S wrote:
>
>Dennis,
>>A fellow C&C owner near me has the same year boat as mine but my toe rails 
>>are faded and his look new.  He told me he waxed them to stop the black 
>>streaks running down the side of the hull.  Wouldn't say what kind of wax, 
>>but his looked like they were freshly and professionally painted.  The 
>>automotive black trim polish might work?  I also tried Penetrol but it didn't 
>>last long and I got streaks on the hull.  
>>
>>Can you wax over penetrol?
>>
>>
>>Chuck
>>Resolute
>>1990 C&C 34R
>>Atlantic City, NJ
>>
>
>David Knecht, Ph.D.    Professor and Head of Microscopy Facility
>Department of Molecular and Cell Biology
>U-3125
>91 N. Eagleville Rd.
>University of Connecticut
>Storrs, CT 06269
>860-486-2200
>860-486-4331 (fax)
>
>
>
>
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>
>
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Stus-List FW: Aluminum toerails - cosmetic improvement

[Bill Coleman]

 

Like this?

 

Colstrap2.jpg

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 

 

 

On the Swans that I deliver, blocks, etc are clipped to webbing or rope
loops through the anodized toerails to avoid scratches. I plan to do the
same thing on the C&C.
Andy
C&C 40 
Peregrine

On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 1:14 PM, Martin DeYoung 
wrote:

Calypso's holey rail (toe rail) has faded/corroded to the point that light
surface treatments will not bring back the luster. (20+ of the 43 years have
been in salt water.)  It is beyond the scope of our "in the water" repairs
to remove the toe rails and have them re-anodized.

 

I read somewhere that BBQ paint held up well. I am a little concerned that
epoxy and urethane based paints will be too brittle. I use the holey rail
often for snatch blocks, staysail tacks, parked halyards, and fender /
mooring lines so I want a coating that will not chip from contact.

 

Anyone have recent experience with painting, especially with the current
offerings from the high tech coating companies?

 

Martin

Calypso

1970 C&C 43

Seattle

 

From

65 5260 

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Re: Stus-List PHRF ratings - FS versus NFS

[Hoyt, Mike]

Even more relaxing is having the boat at the dock all season!  No stress
of docking or collision, great for cocktail hour, etc
 
OK - maybe not so funny
 
Mike



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Knowles
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 6:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF ratings - FS versus NFS


It's interesting to contemplate the notion of fairness in a competition
replete with random inequalities and more inconsistencies than
constants. Cruising sounds a lot more rewarding and less stressful than
handicap racing these days. At least for an old duffer:)


Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-02-28, at 18:23, "Bob Hickson"  wrote:



PHRF-LO (Lake Ontario) has done a study of Flying and Non flying ratings
and the spread between the two is adjusted for each type of boat.

PHRF-LO has made a lot of changes to try to make the completion fair ...
for instance in 2012 the add on for a fixed 2 bladed prop out of
aperture was adjusted from +3 to +12.

The PHRF-LO Handicappers Manual is available online to anyone that is
interested

http://www.phrf-lo.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout
=blog&id=88&Itemid=186

Part 2 of the manual includes the adjustment factors that are used.

Best regards,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA

C&C 29-2 Flying Colours

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club

Pickering, ON

(416) 919-2297

bobhick...@rogers.com  

 __/) 

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Re: Stus-List Aluminum toerails - cosmetic improvement

[dwight veinot]

Me too Dennis, people always ask about those lines.I think that streaking
comes from water flowing over the butyl tape deck to hull seal.I use pieces
of old weathered halyards

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: March 1, 2013 9:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Aluminum toerails - cosmetic improvement

 

I have a piece of line laying in the low spot on each toe rail.  The ends of
the line go through the toe rail about 2-3 holes apart and hang down a foot
or so away from the side of the boat.  The lines wick water over the side so
it doesn't go out through the holes.  Reduced the streaking.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 


  _  


From: Chuck S 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 11:44 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Aluminum toerails - cosmetic improvement

 

No, The streaks are definitely where rain washes through the holes in the
toe rail, predominently just forward of each stanchion base.  It's just
dirt, and can be washed off if caught early.  My friend waxed his toe rails
and it made a big difference.  

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ


  _  


From: "David Knecht" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 10:49:18 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Aluminum toerails - cosmetic improvement

Hi Chuck-  I thought the black streaks were from the butyl bedding compound
in which case treating the toe rail will have no effect.  Dave

 

On Feb 27, 2013, at 8:07 PM, Chuck S wrote:

 

Dennis,
A fellow C&C owner near me has the same year boat as mine but my toe rails
are faded and his look new.  He told me he waxed them to stop the black
streaks running down the side of the hull.  Wouldn't say what kind of wax,
but his looked like they were freshly and professionally painted.  The
automotive black trim polish might work?  I also tried Penetrol but it
didn't last long and I got streaks on the hull.  

Can you wax over penetrol?

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ

 



David Knecht, Ph.D.



Professor and Head of Microscopy Facility

Department of Molecular and Cell Biology

U-3125

91 N. Eagleville Rd.

University of Connecticut

Storrs, CT 06269

860-486-2200

860-486-4331 (fax)









 


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  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2238 / Virus Database: 2641/5639 - Release Date: 02/28/13

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Re: Stus-List PHRF ratings - FS versus NFS

[Rich Knowles]

That was last year!  But I did get excellent fuel mileage..

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-03-01, at 10:02, "Hoyt, Mike"  wrote:

Even more relaxing is having the boat at the dock all season!  No stress of 
docking or collision, great for cocktail hour, etc
 
OK - maybe not so funny
 
Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 6:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF ratings - FS versus NFS

It's interesting to contemplate the notion of fairness in a competition replete 
with random inequalities and more inconsistencies than constants. Cruising 
sounds a lot more rewarding and less stressful than handicap racing these days. 
At least for an old duffer:)

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-02-28, at 18:23, "Bob Hickson"  wrote:

PHRF-LO (Lake Ontario) has done a study of Flying and Non flying ratings and 
the spread between the two is adjusted for each type of  boat.
PHRF-LO has made a lot of changes to try to make the completion fair ... for 
instance in 2012 the add on for a fixed 2 bladed prop out of aperture was 
adjusted from +3 to +12.
The PHRF-LO Handicappers Manual is available online to anyone that is interested
http://www.phrf-lo.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=88&Itemid=186
Part 2 of the manual includes the adjustment factors that are used.
Best regards,
Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA
C&C 29-2 Flying Colours
Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club
Pickering, ON
(416) 919-2297
bobhick...@rogers.com
 __/) 
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Re: Stus-List FW: Aluminum toerails - cosmetic improvement

[Andrew Burton]

No, just the webbing. But I like that idea.
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

On Fri, Mar 1, 2013 at 8:57 AM, Bill Coleman  wrote:

>  ** **
>
> Like this?
>
> ** **
>
> [image: Colstrap2.jpg]
>
> ** **
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39 
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> On the Swans that I deliver, blocks, etc are clipped to webbing or rope
> loops through the anodized toerails to avoid scratches. I plan to do the
> same thing on the C&C.
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
>
> On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 1:14 PM, Martin DeYoung 
> wrote:
>
> Calypso’s holey rail (toe rail) has faded/corroded to the point that light
> surface treatments will not bring back the luster. (20+ of the 43 years
> have been in salt water.)  It is beyond the scope of our “in the water”
> repairs to remove the toe rails and have them re-anodized.
>
>  
>
> I read somewhere that BBQ paint held up well. I am a little concerned that
> epoxy and urethane based paints will be too brittle. I use the holey rail
> often for snatch blocks, staysail tacks, parked halyards, and fender /
> mooring lines so I want a coating that will not chip from contact.
>
>  
>
> Anyone have recent experience with painting, especially with the current
> offerings from the high tech coating companies?
>
>  
>
> Martin
>
> Calypso
>
> 1970 C&C 43
>
> Seattle
>
> ** **
>
> *From*
>
> 65 5260 
>
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>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List PROP SIZE

[Della Barba, Joe]

Unless you just need to move a mile or two in and out of a slip, and electric 
engine WILL NOT WORK FOR YOU.
You would literally need THOUSANDS of pounds of batteries to equal the power 
and range of 10 gallons of diesel.
There are plenty of diesel-electric boats around including tugs and cruise 
ships, but for a sailboat it makes not much sense.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex 
Giannelia
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 1:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List PROP SIZE

I know the list must have dealt with this extensively, so pardon the re-hash.  
I am replacing my diesel engine and possibly with an electric and want to get a 
handle on prop size.

Is there a formula where you enter the displacement, DWL, RPM and HP and get a 
prop diameter and pitch?

ALEX GIANNELIA

Phone (416) 203-9858
Fax   (416) 203-9843
Cell   (416) 529-0070

email: a...@airsensing.com
WEB: www.airsensing.com

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: February 28, 2013 1:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 85, Issue 119

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
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Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Considering a New Genoa (jim aridas)
   2. Re:  PHRF ratings - Spin vs non-spin (Tim Goodyear)
   3. Re:  Sailmakers (jim aridas)
   4. Re:  PHRF ratings - Spin vs non-spin (Dennis C.)
   5. Re:  Water Pump delayed start (Terry)
   6. Re:  Aluminum toerails - cosmetic improvement (Martin DeYoung)


--

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2013 12:24:35 -0500
From: jim aridas 
To: cnc-list 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Considering a New Genoa
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"


Tom,For 1350, seems really cheap. Honestly how does the sail look, or 
work?Wonder if they do .75 oz. Hey for that money I wouldn't be that upset when 
the crew punches a hole in it, compared to a new sail from the big guysNorth, 
UK, Haarstik, etcJim Galaxy 34'

Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2013 10:10:57 -0800
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
From: t...@sv-alera.com
Subject: Stus-List Considering a New Genoa



I picked up a new asym from National for Jubilee, our 35 MK 1.  Dirk used to 
work at the Rolly Tasker loft in SE Asia, where a bunch of sail companies 
actually have theirs made.  So he knows the operation very well and was great 
to deal with. Also, his price point was the best.  If you are thinking about 
going to a 2nd tier manufacturer, he's the best person to deal with, IMHO.


Here's his quote...


Thank you for your inquiry
regarding a new spinnaker for your C&C 35 mk 1 (I = 44, J =
14.5)

Custom built in 1.5oz nylon, tri-radial cut in yellow, a new asymmetrical 
spinnaker would be priced at $1,349

Pre-installed in a dousing sock add $335




Dirk Sharland

National Sail Supply, LLC (Rolly Tasker Sails, Florida)

26092 Withrow Rd

Brooksville, FL 34601

1-800-611-3823

fax 813-200-1385

from outside of US 352-540-9101

www.nationalsail.com


Tom B


Tom Buscaglia

SV Alera

C&C 37+/40

Vashon Island WA

(206) 463-9200

www.sv-alera.com




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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2013 10:24:54 -0700
From: Tim Goodyear 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF ratings - Spin vs non-spin
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"

I would lend my support to the +15 seconds to their spinnaker rating for 
non-spinnaker boats (unless an allowance was already given for asym only).
 The PHRFNE standard is +12 seconds, but it is not usually enough on windward / 
leeward courses.  I'd think +15 would be good for you considering the distance 
race format.  We had a Wednesday night fleet in Boston where you could check in 
as spin / non-spin depending on your crew for any given week.  It all worked 
out OK with the PHRFNE +12, but generally the spinnaker boats won.  I don't 
want to offend anyone, but boats sailing with spinnaker were more experienced, 
better prepared and better handled than those without, so I think the right 
performance won...
 Ou

Stus-List port replacement on 29Mk1

[dreuge]

Dear List,


I am looking to replace the small portlight  in the aft end of the pilot birth 
on a 29mk1.  It looks to be  6x13" in size.  The current portlight has an 
protruding lip, and since the portlight external is in the cockpit, this lip 
has been stepped-on, broken, epoxied, and globbed to death.

Are there any recommendations on which brand and model portlight one should use 
for a more flush-fitting functional access.


Thanks for any advise.

Paul


-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL


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Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

[Glen Eddie]

Hello everyone,

I am following up with my previous request for suggestions regarding a holding 
tank for my C&C 35 Mk I.  Specifically, I have taken out the old  bladder and 
now intend to put in a new tank.  If I put a rigid tank back under the vanity 
it will have to be custom made as there does not seem to be any pre made tanks 
that will fit without tearing apart the vanity in the head, etc.

I have also been told that it will take 10 weeks to build the custom holding 
tank (for the price of C$640).  

I would appreciate hearing from other C&C 35 owners that have replaced the 
holding tank with an indication of the size of the tank and where they put it 
(i.e. v-birth, etc.).

Thanks in advance. 

Freya IV
Toronto Hydroplane and Sailing Club


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Re: Stus-List Aluminum toerails - cosmetic improvement

[Gary Nylander]

I use the ends of the genoa track adjusters - lay them along the toe rail, run 
them through a hole in the rail and let them hang down about six inches. Wicks 
the water out. Why C&C didn't put a drain at the low spot is beyond me - I have 
a bunch of friends with a little drain there which has an elbow out the side or 
toward the stern. Design deficiency.

Gary
30-1
  - Original Message - 
  From: dwight veinot 
  To: 'Dennis C.' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 9:08 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Aluminum toerails - cosmetic improvement


  Me too Dennis, people always ask about those lines.I think that streaking 
comes from water flowing over the butyl tape deck to hull seal.I use pieces of 
old weathered halyards

   

  Dwight Veinot

  C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

  Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

   


--

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
  Sent: March 1, 2013 9:37 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Aluminum toerails - cosmetic improvement

   

  I have a piece of line laying in the low spot on each toe rail.  The ends of 
the line go through the toe rail about 2-3 holes apart and hang down a foot or 
so away from the side of the boat.  The lines wick water over the side so it 
doesn't go out through the holes.  Reduced the streaking.

   

  Dennis C.

  Touche' 35-1 #83

  Mandeville, LA

 




From: Chuck S 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 11:44 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Aluminum toerails - cosmetic improvement

 

No, The streaks are definitely where rain washes through the holes in the 
toe rail, predominently just forward of each stanchion base.  It's just dirt, 
and can be washed off if caught early.  My friend waxed his toe rails and it 
made a big difference.  

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ




From: "David Knecht" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 10:49:18 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Aluminum toerails - cosmetic improvement

Hi Chuck-  I thought the black streaks were from the butyl bedding compound 
in which case treating the toe rail will have no effect.  Dave

 

On Feb 27, 2013, at 8:07 PM, Chuck S wrote:

   

  Dennis,
  A fellow C&C owner near me has the same year boat as mine but my toe 
rails are faded and his look new.  He told me he waxed them to stop the black 
streaks running down the side of the hull.  Wouldn't say what kind of wax, but 
his looked like they were freshly and professionally painted.  The automotive 
black trim polish might work?  I also tried Penetrol but it didn't last long 
and I got streaks on the hull.  

  Can you wax over penetrol?

  Chuck
  Resolute
  1990 C&C 34R
  Atlantic City, NJ

 

David Knecht, Ph.D.

Professor and Head of Microscopy Facility

Department of Molecular and Cell Biology

U-3125

91 N. Eagleville Rd.

University of Connecticut

Storrs, CT 06269

860-486-2200

860-486-4331 (fax)









 


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Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

[Della Barba, Joe]

Is this for real or just to show the marine police you have one?
A 3 gallon fits on the lower shelf no problem. If you really want to use it, 
you could put one in place of the bow water tankt that would be pretty big or 
one compartment forward of that.
Can you use the Lectra-Sans there? 

Joe Della Barba
Coquina C&C 35 MK I


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Glen Eddie
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 10:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

Hello everyone,

I am following up with my previous request for suggestions regarding a holding 
tank for my C&C 35 Mk I.  Specifically, I have taken out the old  bladder and 
now intend to put in a new tank.  If I put a rigid tank back under the vanity 
it will have to be custom made as there does not seem to be any pre made tanks 
that will fit without tearing apart the vanity in the head, etc.

I have also been told that it will take 10 weeks to build the custom holding 
tank (for the price of C$640).  

I would appreciate hearing from other C&C 35 owners that have replaced the 
holding tank with an indication of the size of the tank and where they put it 
(i.e. v-birth, etc.).

Thanks in advance. 

Freya IV
Toronto Hydroplane and Sailing Club


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Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

[Joel Aronson]

Glen,

The Mk III tank is in under the vee berth.  I think it is 15 gallons.  I
can't imagine there is enough room under the vanity to put in a tank large
enough to allow more than a weekend sail.  Try kracor.com

Joel
35/3
The Office
Annapolis


On Fri, Mar 1, 2013 at 10:15 AM, Glen Eddie  wrote:

> Hello everyone,
>
> I am following up with my previous request for suggestions regarding a
> holding tank for my C&C 35 Mk I.  Specifically, I have taken out the old
>  bladder and now intend to put in a new tank.  If I put a rigid tank back
> under the vanity it will have to be custom made as there does not seem to
> be any pre made tanks that will fit without tearing apart the vanity in the
> head, etc.
>
> I have also been told that it will take 10 weeks to build the custom
> holding tank (for the price of C$640).
>
> I would appreciate hearing from other C&C 35 owners that have replaced the
> holding tank with an indication of the size of the tank and where they put
> it (i.e. v-birth, etc.).
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Freya IV
> Toronto Hydroplane and Sailing Club
>
>
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>



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301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List tips

[Josh Muckley]

@ Bob Abbott:  True.

-- 
Want to email me privately?  Check out:
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Then get my public key at:
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yU0R5RHBOS2h3MFk/edit
On Mar 1, 2013 8:27 AM, "Robert Abbott"  wrote:

>  Josh Muckley wrote: "Skip getting the standard survey unless the bank
> needs it."
>
> Possibly more important, find out what your insurance company requires
> regarding a 'recent survey'.
>
> Bob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
>
>
> On 2013/03/01 4:44 AM, Josh Muckley wrote:
>
> 1. could have been as simple as something sitting on the deck prior to the
> survey or the routing of a water line inside the boat.  Repairs could be
> costly but then again it could be nothing.  Thermal imaging sounds
> promising.
>
> 2.  Yep, factor in $4k in discounts for repairs.  If YOU get the work done
> you will know what was done and that it was done right.  You may not find a
> used boat without something wrong with the rudder...it just happens.
>
> 3.  Reverse is more load than forward so as long as there are no bad
> noises or vibrations the engine/transmission is probably ok not reaching
> full RPM in reverse.  Prop may also be set a little too aggressive.  Not
> hard to fix and not really a problem especially if it is only reverse.
> Feel it out during the sea trial.
>
> Seems like by having the standard survey previously done it would be more
> cost effective now to get a engine, rig, and thermal survey.  Skip getting
> the standard survey unless the bank needs it.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
>
> --
> Want to email me privately?  Check out:
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GNU_Privacy_Guard
> Then get my public key at:
> https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yU0R5RHBOS2h3MFk/edit
> On Feb 28, 2013 10:33 PM, "David Knecht"  wrote:
>
>>  Since the advice has been so helpful, I am going to move to the next
>> step.  Perhaps this is becoming a group buying decision!  The broker sent
>> me the survey they had done before taking the boat in trade in September.
>> Turns out the surveyor is one of 3 that I contacted about surveying for me
>> and had not heard back from yet.  I am not sure how this affects my doing a
>> survey, but he did not do a thermal imaging scan as was recommended by
>> Joanna and David and I will likely hire one who does, as it seems a
>> worthwhile investment with the cored hull.  There were a few things in the
>> survey of note:
>>
>>1.
>>
>>**1.  There is elevated moisture present in the starboard side deck
>>starting from the spreacher (??) blocks and running forward for 15”. The
>>deck was thoroughly sounded and found to be solid. No repairs are 
>> necessary
>>at this time, however the area should be monitored annually with repairs
>>undertaken if conditions change.
>> 2.
>>
>>**2.  Both sides of the rudder have voids present between the outer
>>skin and the core material of the rudder. The areas measure about one foot
>>in width and about three feet in length. It is recommended to have the
>>rudder repaired in the off season after it is thoroughly dried.
>>
>>3.  The engine would not achieve a wide open throttle when the
>>transmission was put into reverse on several occasions. An inspection of
>>the max propeller was undertaken with no issues noted in its operation. It
>>is recommended to contact the propeller and transmission manufacture to
>>find out if what if anything is out of order.
>>
>>  The second does not surprise me as I had a similar issue with my
>> previous C&C 34 and would request that to be fixed before purchase.  I am
>> not sure what to make of the first and third.  Comments?  Thanks- Dave
>>
>>   David Knecht, Ph.D.
>> Professor and Head of Microscopy Facility
>> Department of Molecular and Cell Biology
>> U-3125
>> 91 N. Eagleville Rd.
>> University of Connecticut
>> Storrs, CT 06269
>> 860-486-2200
>> 860-486-4331 (fax)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>>
>>
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

[Glen Eddie]

This will be a proper holding tank.  We are on Lake Ontario and Y valve is not 
an option.  Has anyone put a holding tank in the v birth of the C&C 35?   I'd 
like to talk to you if you did.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 10:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

Is this for real or just to show the marine police you have one?
A 3 gallon fits on the lower shelf no problem. If you really want to use it, 
you could put one in place of the bow water tankt that would be pretty big or 
one compartment forward of that.
Can you use the Lectra-Sans there? 

Joe Della Barba
Coquina C&C 35 MK I


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Glen Eddie
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 10:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

Hello everyone,

I am following up with my previous request for suggestions regarding a holding 
tank for my C&C 35 Mk I.  Specifically, I have taken out the old  bladder and 
now intend to put in a new tank.  If I put a rigid tank back under the vanity 
it will have to be custom made as there does not seem to be any pre made tanks 
that will fit without tearing apart the vanity in the head, etc.

I have also been told that it will take 10 weeks to build the custom holding 
tank (for the price of C$640).  

I would appreciate hearing from other C&C 35 owners that have replaced the 
holding tank with an indication of the size of the tank and where they put it 
(i.e. v-birth, etc.).

Thanks in advance. 

Freya IV
Toronto Hydroplane and Sailing Club


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Re: Stus-List PROP SIZE

[Wally Bryant]

Yeah, like Joe said.

Alex, you're into aerial photography, so think about a battery powered 
airplane.  At this time, I wouldn't trust my life to one. Even when day 
sailing, it's prudent to make sure you can get home when things don't 
work out as forecast.


Speaking of forecasts...  I'm still sitting here after five days of 
listening to the breeze howl through the rig.  It hit about 40 last 
night.  With the full moon tides and the predominant southerly ground 
swell meeting this wind swell from the north there are actually 10 foot 
waves with an 8 second period happening about 20 miles to the east.  
Some people laughed at me when I loaded enough food, cigarettes and 
booze to last three weeks for what ideally would be a four day sail.  
(I'm running out of tequila -- only seven liters left.)  But back to 
forecasts, after this thing blows through I'm pretty sure it's going to 
be light and flaky. That's my forecast...


Wal


you wrote:

I am replacing my diesel engine and possibly with an electric  




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Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

[djhaug...@juno.com]

Have you talked to Holland Marine?  He seems to have tanks that replace OEM 
tanks contoured to fit up against the hull.

I would start with him.  I've spoken to him and he seems like a nice guy.

Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Glen Eddie 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2013 15:39:35 +

This will be a proper holding tank.  We are on Lake Ontario and Y valve is not 
an option.  Has anyone put a holding tank in the v birth of the C&C 35?   I'd 
like to talk to you if you did.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 10:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

Is this for real or just to show the marine police you have one?
A 3 gallon fits on the lower shelf no problem. If you really want to use it, 
you could put one in place of the bow water tankt that would be pretty big or 
one compartment forward of that.
Can you use the Lectra-Sans there? 

Joe Della Barba
Coquina C&C 35 MK I


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Glen Eddie
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 10:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

Hello everyone,

I am following up with my previous request for suggestions regarding a holding 
tank for my C&C 35 Mk I.  Specifically, I have taken out the old  bladder and 
now intend to put in a new tank.  If I put a rigid tank back under the vanity 
it will have to be custom made as there does not seem to be any pre made tanks 
that will fit without tearing apart the vanity in the head, etc.

I have also been told that it will take 10 weeks to build the custom holding 
tank (for the price of C$640).  

I would appreciate hearing from other C&C 35 owners that have replaced the 
holding tank with an indication of the size of the tank and where they put it 
(i.e. v-birth, etc.).

Thanks in advance. 

Freya IV
Toronto Hydroplane and Sailing Club


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Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

[Glen Eddie]

Hi Danny, 

The custom quote is from Holland Marine.  

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 10:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

Have you talked to Holland Marine?  He seems to have tanks that replace OEM 
tanks contoured to fit up against the hull.

I would start with him.  I've spoken to him and he seems like a nice guy.

Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Glen Eddie 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2013 15:39:35 +

This will be a proper holding tank.  We are on Lake Ontario and Y valve is not 
an option.  Has anyone put a holding tank in the v birth of the C&C 35?   I'd 
like to talk to you if you did.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 10:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

Is this for real or just to show the marine police you have one?
A 3 gallon fits on the lower shelf no problem. If you really want to use it, 
you could put one in place of the bow water tankt that would be pretty big or 
one compartment forward of that.
Can you use the Lectra-Sans there? 

Joe Della Barba
Coquina C&C 35 MK I


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Glen Eddie
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 10:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

Hello everyone,

I am following up with my previous request for suggestions regarding a holding 
tank for my C&C 35 Mk I.  Specifically, I have taken out the old  bladder and 
now intend to put in a new tank.  If I put a rigid tank back under the vanity 
it will have to be custom made as there does not seem to be any pre made tanks 
that will fit without tearing apart the vanity in the head, etc.

I have also been told that it will take 10 weeks to build the custom holding 
tank (for the price of C$640).  

I would appreciate hearing from other C&C 35 owners that have replaced the 
holding tank with an indication of the size of the tank and where they put it 
(i.e. v-birth, etc.).

Thanks in advance. 

Freya IV
Toronto Hydroplane and Sailing Club


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Re: Stus-List PROP SIZE

[Rick Brass]

I want to second what Joe has said.

You've not said what size boat you have, so perhaps you are thinking about
an electric outboard.

You may want to look at the last two or three issues of Cruising World for
columns written by Webb Childs. He has put a Torqueedo outboard on his
latest boat, which is somewhere around 24-26 ft. IIRC he is able to get 3 or
4 knots for about 1 1/2 hours, and 1 1/2 knot for 4 or 5 hours, but has
concerns about the ability to "motor in headwinds" and chop. Torqueedo does
offer an option that can solar charge the lithium ion battery pack on the
motor. They also have a sail drive you could put in place of your existing
diesel to avoid the typical problems of an outboard on a sailboat. But I
expect that by the time you did hull mods to install a saildrive, you would
exceed the modest cost of a new 18 or 24 hp Beta Marine diesel.

I have seen one sailboat and one power boat that have had successful
electric power systems.

The power boat was a smallish sport fisherman with a diesel/electric hybrid
system. Something like a 36 ft Black Watch, or the other sport fisherman
built on the Jersey shore. Owner had replaced the two diesel engines with
high torque electric motors typically used in large fork lift trucks. They
were like 18 or 20 inch diameter motors if I recall, and 36 volts. Power
came from a 3000+ AH 36v fork lift battery and a 6 KW Onan generator to
provide power to/through the battery. Genset ran all the time to provide
maneuvering power and the battery provided surge power for acceleration and
high speed. Don't know what he used for a motor controller/throttle, but
that technology is very available and pretty reasonable since it is what has
been used for forklifts up until the advent of AC motor controller
technology. I'd guess the owner had $20-25k in the conversion, but the fuel
usage had dropped from something like 20-25 GPH to 2 or 3.

The sailboat was a larger, mostly custom, offshore boat - maybe a 42 Gossard
- and had been built for the electric power. There was an access hatch in
the cabin top to let you R&R the 1800 pound 80 volt battery (also used in
fork trucks and costing about $5k)that was nestled in a well in the keel
under the cabin sole. Electric motors - particularly AC motors - are much
more efficient at 72 to 120 volts. The power was by Solomon's Wheel and used
two 7 pancake electric motors and AC electric controllers. The motors are
only about 7 hp each, but an AC electric motor can produce max torque at I
RPM, and it is torque that spins a big boat prop, not horsepower. Also, when
sailing, the props continue to spin and drive the motors as alternators that
recharge the battery. All in all it was a nice installation that gave almost
infinite range and should need very little maintenance except for the
battery. But, boy, I expect it was expensive compared to a 50 ho diesel
installation.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 9:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List PROP SIZE

Unless you just need to move a mile or two in and out of a slip, and
electric engine WILL NOT WORK FOR YOU.
You would literally need THOUSANDS of pounds of batteries to equal the power
and range of 10 gallons of diesel.
There are plenty of diesel-electric boats around including tugs and cruise
ships, but for a sailboat it makes not much sense.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex
Giannelia
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 1:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List PROP SIZE

I know the list must have dealt with this extensively, so pardon the
re-hash.  I am replacing my diesel engine and possibly with an electric and
want to get a handle on prop size.

Is there a formula where you enter the displacement, DWL, RPM and HP and get
a prop diameter and pitch?

ALEX GIANNELIA

Phone (416) 203-9858
Fax   (416) 203-9843
Cell   (416) 529-0070



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Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

[djhaug...@juno.com]

oh...ooomph!

I'll clam up now...  LOL


-- Original Message --
From: Glen Eddie 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2013 15:48:14 +

Hi Danny, 

The custom quote is from Holland Marine.  

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 10:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

Have you talked to Holland Marine?  He seems to have tanks that replace OEM 
tanks contoured to fit up against the hull.

I would start with him.  I've spoken to him and he seems like a nice guy.

Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Glen Eddie 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2013 15:39:35 +

This will be a proper holding tank.  We are on Lake Ontario and Y valve is not 
an option.  Has anyone put a holding tank in the v birth of the C&C 35?   I'd 
like to talk to you if you did.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 10:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

Is this for real or just to show the marine police you have one?
A 3 gallon fits on the lower shelf no problem. If you really want to use it, 
you could put one in place of the bow water tankt that would be pretty big or 
one compartment forward of that.
Can you use the Lectra-Sans there? 

Joe Della Barba
Coquina C&C 35 MK I


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Glen Eddie
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 10:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

Hello everyone,

I am following up with my previous request for suggestions regarding a holding 
tank for my C&C 35 Mk I.  Specifically, I have taken out the old  bladder and 
now intend to put in a new tank.  If I put a rigid tank back under the vanity 
it will have to be custom made as there does not seem to be any pre made tanks 
that will fit without tearing apart the vanity in the head, etc.

I have also been told that it will take 10 weeks to build the custom holding 
tank (for the price of C$640).  

I would appreciate hearing from other C&C 35 owners that have replaced the 
holding tank with an indication of the size of the tank and where they put it 
(i.e. v-birth, etc.).

Thanks in advance. 

Freya IV
Toronto Hydroplane and Sailing Club


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Re: Stus-List PROP SIZE

[Frederick G Street]

I'd offer to help you with the tequila, as I'm heading to Mexico next weekend 
-- but the wrong coast.  Maybe next trip…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 1, 2013, at 9:44 AM, Wally Bryant  wrote:

> Speaking of forecasts...  I'm still sitting here after five days of listening 
> to the breeze howl through the rig.  It hit about 40 last night.  With the 
> full moon tides and the predominant southerly ground swell meeting this wind 
> swell from the north there are actually 10 foot waves with an 8 second period 
> happening about 20 miles to the east.  Some people laughed at me when I 
> loaded enough food, cigarettes and booze to last three weeks for what ideally 
> would be a four day sail.  (I'm running out of tequila -- only seven liters 
> left.)  But back to forecasts, after this thing blows through I'm pretty sure 
> it's going to be light and flaky. That's my forecast...
> 
> Wal

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Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

[Della Barba, Joe]

There is a LOT of room where the bow water tank is if you can do without it. I 
can't imagine not being able to get at least a 20 gallon if not 25 or 30 
standard rectangular tank in there.

Joe Della Barba


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 10:50 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

oh...ooomph!

I'll clam up now...  LOL


-- Original Message --
From: Glen Eddie 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2013 15:48:14 +

Hi Danny, 

The custom quote is from Holland Marine.  

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 10:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

Have you talked to Holland Marine?  He seems to have tanks that replace OEM 
tanks contoured to fit up against the hull.

I would start with him.  I've spoken to him and he seems like a nice guy.

Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Glen Eddie 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2013 15:39:35 +

This will be a proper holding tank.  We are on Lake Ontario and Y valve is not 
an option.  Has anyone put a holding tank in the v birth of the C&C 35?   I'd 
like to talk to you if you did.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 10:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

Is this for real or just to show the marine police you have one?
A 3 gallon fits on the lower shelf no problem. If you really want to use it, 
you could put one in place of the bow water tankt that would be pretty big or 
one compartment forward of that.
Can you use the Lectra-Sans there? 

Joe Della Barba
Coquina C&C 35 MK I


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Glen Eddie
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 10:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

Hello everyone,

I am following up with my previous request for suggestions regarding a holding 
tank for my C&C 35 Mk I.  Specifically, I have taken out the old  bladder and 
now intend to put in a new tank.  If I put a rigid tank back under the vanity 
it will have to be custom made as there does not seem to be any pre made tanks 
that will fit without tearing apart the vanity in the head, etc.

I have also been told that it will take 10 weeks to build the custom holding 
tank (for the price of C$640).  

I would appreciate hearing from other C&C 35 owners that have replaced the 
holding tank with an indication of the size of the tank and where they put it 
(i.e. v-birth, etc.).

Thanks in advance. 

Freya IV
Toronto Hydroplane and Sailing Club


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Re: Stus-List PROP SIZE

[Della Barba, Joe]

Memories of running downwind at a *steady* 10-11 knots under jib with 50 
gusting to higher right on the stern. After the fun time was over we did about 
1 knot at best going upwind at full throttle getting back home. Electric power 
would have been going backwards at some speed.

Joe Della Barba

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 10:55 AM
To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List PROP SIZE

I'd offer to help you with the tequila, as I'm heading to Mexico next weekend 
-- but the wrong coast.  Maybe next trip...   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 1, 2013, at 9:44 AM, Wally Bryant 
mailto:w...@wbryant.com>> wrote:


Speaking of forecasts...  I'm still sitting here after five days of listening 
to the breeze howl through the rig.  It hit about 40 last night.  With the full 
moon tides and the predominant southerly ground swell meeting this wind swell 
from the north there are actually 10 foot waves with an 8 second period 
happening about 20 miles to the east.  Some people laughed at me when I loaded 
enough food, cigarettes and booze to last three weeks for what ideally would be 
a four day sail.  (I'm running out of tequila -- only seven liters left.)  But 
back to forecasts, after this thing blows through I'm pretty sure it's going to 
be light and flaky. That's my forecast...

Wal

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Re: Stus-List PROP SIZE

[Russ & Melody]

Hi Alex,

This info from a guy who did it and sailed California to Hawaii.
http://alberg30.blogspot.ca/2011/02/motor.html

Research will indicate that you do not do a direct HP --> HP when 
comparing engine to motor.


Daid Gerr's propeller handbook is the best I've sen.

Web calculators:
http://www.vicprop.com/calculator.htm
http://www.rbbi.com/folders/prop/propcalc.htm

Cheers and enjoy, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 07:50 AM 01/03/2013, you wrote:

I want to second what Joe has said.

You've not said what size boat you have, so perhaps you are thinking about
an electric outboard.

You may want to look at the last two or three issues of Cruising World for
columns written by Webb Childs. He has put a Torqueedo outboard on his
latest boat, which is somewhere around 24-26 ft. IIRC he is able to get 3 or
4 knots for about 1 1/2 hours, and 1 1/2 knot for 4 or 5 hours, but has
concerns about the ability to "motor in headwinds" and chop. Torqueedo does
offer an option that can solar charge the lithium ion battery pack on the
motor. They also have a sail drive you could put in place of your existing
diesel to avoid the typical problems of an outboard on a sailboat. But I
expect that by the time you did hull mods to install a saildrive, you would
exceed the modest cost of a new 18 or 24 hp Beta Marine diesel.

I have seen one sailboat and one power boat that have had successful
electric power systems.

The power boat was a smallish sport fisherman with a diesel/electric hybrid
system. Something like a 36 ft Black Watch, or the other sport fisherman
built on the Jersey shore. Owner had replaced the two diesel engines with
high torque electric motors typically used in large fork lift trucks. They
were like 18 or 20 inch diameter motors if I recall, and 36 volts. Power
came from a 3000+ AH 36v fork lift battery and a 6 KW Onan generator to
provide power to/through the battery. Genset ran all the time to provide
maneuvering power and the battery provided surge power for acceleration and
high speed. Don't know what he used for a motor controller/throttle, but
that technology is very available and pretty reasonable since it is what has
been used for forklifts up until the advent of AC motor controller
technology. I'd guess the owner had $20-25k in the conversion, but the fuel
usage had dropped from something like 20-25 GPH to 2 or 3.

The sailboat was a larger, mostly custom, offshore boat - maybe a 42 Gossard
- and had been built for the electric power. There was an access hatch in
the cabin top to let you R&R the 1800 pound 80 volt battery (also used in
fork trucks and costing about $5k)that was nestled in a well in the keel
under the cabin sole. Electric motors - particularly AC motors - are much
more efficient at 72 to 120 volts. The power was by Solomon's Wheel and used
two 7 pancake electric motors and AC electric controllers. The motors are
only about 7 hp each, but an AC electric motor can produce max torque at I
RPM, and it is torque that spins a big boat prop, not horsepower. Also, when
sailing, the props continue to spin and drive the motors as alternators that
recharge the battery. All in all it was a nice installation that gave almost
infinite range and should need very little maintenance except for the
battery. But, boy, I expect it was expensive compared to a 50 ho diesel
installation.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 9:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List PROP SIZE

Unless you just need to move a mile or two in and out of a slip, and
electric engine WILL NOT WORK FOR YOU.
You would literally need THOUSANDS of pounds of batteries to equal the power
and range of 10 gallons of diesel.
There are plenty of diesel-electric boats around including tugs and cruise
ships, but for a sailboat it makes not much sense.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex
Giannelia
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 1:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List PROP SIZE

I know the list must have dealt with this extensively, so pardon the
re-hash.  I am replacing my diesel engine and possibly with an electric and
want to get a handle on prop size.

Is there a formula where you enter the displacement, DWL, RPM and HP and get
a prop diameter and pitch?

ALEX GIANNELIA

Phone (416) 203-9858
Fax   (416) 203-9843
Cell   (416) 529-0070



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Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

[Glen Eddie]

Thanks Joe,

Has anyone done this retrofit to a C&C35 Mk 1?

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 10:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

There is a LOT of room where the bow water tank is if you can do without it. I 
can't imagine not being able to get at least a 20 gallon if not 25 or 30 
standard rectangular tank in there.

Joe Della Barba


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 10:50 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

oh...ooomph!

I'll clam up now...  LOL


-- Original Message --
From: Glen Eddie 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2013 15:48:14 +

Hi Danny, 

The custom quote is from Holland Marine.  

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 10:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

Have you talked to Holland Marine?  He seems to have tanks that replace OEM 
tanks contoured to fit up against the hull.

I would start with him.  I've spoken to him and he seems like a nice guy.

Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Glen Eddie 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2013 15:39:35 +

This will be a proper holding tank.  We are on Lake Ontario and Y valve is not 
an option.  Has anyone put a holding tank in the v birth of the C&C 35?   I'd 
like to talk to you if you did.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 10:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

Is this for real or just to show the marine police you have one?
A 3 gallon fits on the lower shelf no problem. If you really want to use it, 
you could put one in place of the bow water tankt that would be pretty big or 
one compartment forward of that.
Can you use the Lectra-Sans there? 

Joe Della Barba
Coquina C&C 35 MK I


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Glen Eddie
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 10:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

Hello everyone,

I am following up with my previous request for suggestions regarding a holding 
tank for my C&C 35 Mk I.  Specifically, I have taken out the old  bladder and 
now intend to put in a new tank.  If I put a rigid tank back under the vanity 
it will have to be custom made as there does not seem to be any pre made tanks 
that will fit without tearing apart the vanity in the head, etc.

I have also been told that it will take 10 weeks to build the custom holding 
tank (for the price of C$640).  

I would appreciate hearing from other C&C 35 owners that have replaced the 
holding tank with an indication of the size of the tank and where they put it 
(i.e. v-birth, etc.).

Thanks in advance. 

Freya IV
Toronto Hydroplane and Sailing Club


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Re: Stus-List tips

[dwight veinot]

I can't imagine any insurance company being satisfied with anything but a
complete marine survey done by an accredited marine surveyor.  My policy is
with Royal Sun Alliance and my agent says they are most pleased when the
survey report includes lots of photos of the boat.

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Abbott
Sent: March 1, 2013 9:27 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List tips

 

Josh Muckley wrote: "Skip getting the standard survey unless the bank needs
it."

Possibly more important, find out what your insurance company requires
regarding a 'recent survey'.

Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.





On 2013/03/01 4:44 AM, Josh Muckley wrote:

1. could have been as simple as something sitting on the deck prior to the
survey or the routing of a water line inside the boat.  Repairs could be
costly but then again it could be nothing.  Thermal imaging sounds
promising.

2.  Yep, factor in $4k in discounts for repairs.  If YOU get the work done
you will know what was done and that it was done right.  You may not find a
used boat without something wrong with the rudder...it just happens.

3.  Reverse is more load than forward so as long as there are no bad noises
or vibrations the engine/transmission is probably ok not reaching full RPM
in reverse.  Prop may also be set a little too aggressive.  Not hard to fix
and not really a problem especially if it is only reverse.  Feel it out
during the sea trial.

Seems like by having the standard survey previously done it would be more
cost effective now to get a engine, rig, and thermal survey.  Skip getting
the standard survey unless the bank needs it.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+

-- 
Want to email me privately?  Check out:  
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On Feb 28, 2013 10:33 PM, "David Knecht"  wrote:

Since the advice has been so helpful, I am going to move to the next step.
Perhaps this is becoming a group buying decision!  The broker sent me the
survey they had done before taking the boat in trade in September.   Turns
out the surveyor is one of 3 that I contacted about surveying for me and had
not heard back from yet.  I am not sure how this affects my doing a survey,
but he did not do a thermal imaging scan as was recommended by Joanna and
David and I will likely hire one who does, as it seems a worthwhile
investment with the cored hull.  There were a few things in the survey of
note:

1.  **1.  There is elevated moisture present in the starboard side deck
starting from the spreacher (??) blocks and running forward for 15". The
deck was thoroughly sounded and found to be solid. No repairs are necessary
at this time, however the area should be monitored annually with repairs
undertaken if conditions change. 

2.  **2.  Both sides of the rudder have voids present between the outer
skin and the core material of the rudder. The areas measure about one foot
in width and about three feet in length. It is recommended to have the
rudder repaired in the off season after it is thoroughly dried. 

3.  The engine would not achieve a wide open throttle when the transmission
was put into reverse on several occasions. An inspection of the max
propeller was undertaken with no issues noted in its operation. It is
recommended to contact the propeller and transmission manufacture to find
out if what if anything is out of order. 

The second does not surprise me as I had a similar issue with my previous
C&C 34 and would request that to be fixed before purchase.  I am not sure
what to make of the first and third.  Comments?  Thanks- Dave 

 



David Knecht, Ph.D.



Professor and Head of Microscopy Facility

Department of Molecular and Cell Biology

U-3125

91 N. Eagleville Rd.

University of Connecticut

Storrs, CT 06269

860-486-2200

860-486-4331 (fax)





 

 


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  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2238 / Virus Database: 2641/5639 - Release Date: 02/28/13

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Re: Stus-List tips

[Josh Muckley]

Really it comes down to what the bank or the insurance company deem
recent.  It sounded like a full, real survey by an certified company was
performed when the broker received the boat.  I do understand the idea of
having a surveyor that is acting on "your" behalf but the truth is the
surveyor is liable to the buyer, the seller, the bank, and the insurance
co.  Any one of them can claim negligence (possible law suite for damages),
file complaints with the applicable association of surveyors, file
complaints with the BBB, and log multiple bad online reviews.  There really
isn't a good reason to provide a survey that isn't fair and honest.  About
the only latitude a surveyor has is the depth of detail during the
inspection and in the report.

Just my 3¢,
Josh Muckley

-- 
Want to email me privately?  Check out:
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Then get my public key at:
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On Mar 1, 2013 11:32 AM, "dwight veinot" 
wrote:

> ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** **
>
> I can’t imagine any insurance company being satisfied with anything but a
> complete marine survey done by an accredited marine surveyor.  My policy is
> with Royal Sun Alliance and my agent says they are most pleased when the
> survey report includes lots of photos of the boat.
>
> ** **
>
> Dwight Veinot
>
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
>
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
> ** **
>  --
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Robert
> Abbott
> *Sent:* March 1, 2013 9:27 AM
> *To:* **cnc-list@cnc-list.com**
> *Subject:* Stus-List tips
>
> ** **
>
> Josh Muckley wrote: "Skip getting the standard survey unless the bank
> needs it."
>
> Possibly more important, find out what your insurance company requires
> regarding a 'recent survey'.
>
> Bob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax**, **N.S.
>
>
>
>
>
> On 2013/03/01 4:44 AM, Josh Muckley wrote:
>
> 1. could have been as simple as something sitting on the deck prior to the
> survey or the routing of a water line inside the boat.  Repairs could be
> costly but then again it could be nothing.  Thermal imaging sounds
> promising.
>
> 2.  Yep, factor in $4k in discounts for repairs.  If YOU get the work done
> you will know what was done and that it was done right.  You may not find a
> used boat without something wrong with the rudder...it just happens.
>
> 3.  Reverse is more load than forward so as long as there are no bad
> noises or vibrations the engine/transmission is probably ok not reaching
> full RPM in reverse.  Prop may also be set a little too aggressive.  Not
> hard to fix and not really a problem especially if it is only reverse.
> Feel it out during the sea trial.
>
> Seems like by having the standard survey previously done it would be more
> cost effective now to get a engine, rig, and thermal survey.  Skip getting
> the standard survey unless the bank needs it.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
>
> --
> Want to email me privately?  Check out:
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GNU_Privacy_Guard
> Then get my public key at:
> https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yU0R5RHBOS2h3MFk/edit
>
> On Feb 28, 2013 10:33 PM, "David Knecht"  wrote:**
> **
>
> Since the advice has been so helpful, I am going to move to the next step.
>  Perhaps this is becoming a group buying decision!  The broker sent me the
> survey they had done before taking the boat in trade in September.   Turns
> out the surveyor is one of 3 that I contacted about surveying for me and
> had not heard back from yet.  I am not sure how this affects my doing a
> survey, but he did not do a thermal imaging scan as was recommended by
> Joanna and David and I will likely hire one who does, as it seems a
> worthwhile investment with the cored hull.  There were a few things in the
> survey of note:
>
> **1.  1.  There is elevated moisture present in the starboard
> side deck starting from the spreacher (??) blocks and running forward for
> 15”. The deck was thoroughly sounded and found to be solid. No repairs are
> necessary at this time, however the area should be monitored annually with
> repairs undertaken if conditions change. 
>
> **2.  2.  Both sides of the rudder have voids present between the
> outer skin and the core material of the rudder. The areas measure about one
> foot in width and about three feet in length. It is recommended to have the
> rudder repaired in the off season after it is thoroughly dried. 
>
> 3.  The engine would not achieve a wide open throttle when the
> transmission was put into reverse on several occasions. An inspection of
> the max propeller was undertaken with no issues noted in its operation. It
> is recommended to contact the propeller and transmission manufacture to
> find out if what if anything is out of order. 
>
> The second does not surprise me as I had a similar issue 

Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

[rick bushie]

I don't have a 35 but on my 30-1 I just re-plumbed the existing water tank
into a holding tank. First, I plugged and laminated over the 1" outlets at
the bottom.  Then, I drilled a new 1 1/2" inlet at the top on the aft end
and installed a barbed through hull for the head discharge hose.  Next, I
constructed an angled dip tube out of 1 1/2 " pvc pipe and glassed it in to
run from the original water fill inlet hose on the forward end of the tank
to within 1" of the lowest part of the tank.  I replaced the original water
fill and vent hoses with appropriate sanitation type hoses and installed a
carbon filter in the vent line.

Someday, I'll replace the deck fitting so that it reads "waste" instead of
"water"!

Hope that helps.

Rick Bushie
s/v Anchovy, 1971 30-1, Hull #1
Worton Creek, MD
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Stus-List Forward Hatch

[MICHAEL CULLEN]

Don't know about the OEM hatch for your 29, but I have the following Bowmar 
Seabreeze hatch for sale:
$350.00
Brand New never installed Bowmar Seabreeze Deck Hatch worth double asking!
extruded anodized aluminum frame, smoked acylic lens
Cutout 19 7/8" X 19 7/8"
Flange OD 22" X 22"
Spigot 15/16 (extends into deck)
Lid OD 23 1/12" X 23 1/2" X 2 1/2" high
Ventilates even when closed, locking levers, support struts.

I was going to install it in my old San Juan 28, it was exactly the right size 
for it, but never got around to it before I got 2'itis and bought my C&C 33.

Mike Cullen
Nanaimo BC
250 756-0747

- Original Message -
From: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 7:33:23 PM
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 85, Issue 123

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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You can reach the person managing the list at
cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1.  PHRF ratings - FS versus NFS (Bob Hickson)
   2. Re:  PHRF ratings - FS versus NFS (Rich Knowles)
   3.  forward hatch 29-2 (Mike Cain)
   4. Re:  forward hatch 29-2 (Joel Aronson)
   5. Re:  forward hatch 29-2 (Graham Collins)
   6. Re:  tips (jtsails)
   7. Re:  PHRF ratings - Spin vs non-spin (jtsails)
   8. Re:  PHRF ratings - Spin vs non-spin (Gary Nylander)
   9. Re:  PHRF ratings - Spin vs non-spin (jtsails)
  10. Re:  forward hatch 29-2 (Paul Fountain)
  11. Re:  forward hatch 29-2 (Jim Watts)
  12. Re:  tips (David Knecht)


--

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2013 17:23:43 -0500
From: "Bob Hickson" 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List PHRF ratings - FS versus NFS
Message-ID: <00fd01ce1602$44d1f840$ce75e8c0$@com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

PHRF-LO (Lake Ontario) has done a study of Flying and Non flying ratings and
the spread between the two is adjusted for each type of boat.

PHRF-LO has made a lot of changes to try to make the completion fair ... for
instance in 2012 the add on for a fixed 2 bladed prop out of aperture was
adjusted from +3 to +12.

The PHRF-LO Handicappers Manual is available online to anyone that is
interested

 

http://www.phrf-lo.org/index.php?option=com_content
 &view=category&layout=blog&id=88&Itemid=186

 

Part 2 of the manual includes the adjustment factors that are used.

 

 

Best regards,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA

C&C 29-2 Flying Colours

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club

Pickering, ON

(416) 919-2297

  bobhick...@rogers.com

 

 __/) 

 

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--

Message: 2
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2013 18:30:25 -0400
From: Rich Knowles 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF ratings - FS versus NFS
Message-ID: <7ac1ae16-9bf2-4371-96fe-9b9e21104...@sailpower.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

It's interesting to contemplate the notion of fairness in a competition replete 
with random inequalities and more inconsistencies than constants. Cruising 
sounds a lot more rewarding and less stressful than handicap racing these days. 
At least for an old duffer:)

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-02-28, at 18:23, "Bob Hickson"  wrote:

PHRF-LO (Lake Ontario) has done a study of Flying and Non flying ratings and 
the spread between the two is adjusted for each type of boat.
PHRF-LO has made a lot of changes to try to make the completion fair ... for 
instance in 2012 the add on for a fixed 2 bladed prop out of aperture was 
adjusted from +3 to +12.
The PHRF-LO Handicappers Manual is available online to anyone that is interested
 
http://www.phrf-lo.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=88&Itemid=186
 
Part 2 of the manual includes the adjustment factors that are used.
 
 
Best regards,
Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA
C&C 29-2 Flying Colours
Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club
Pickering, ON
(416) 919-2297
bobhick...@rogers.com
 
 __/) 
 
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--

Message: 3
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2013 14:32:03 -08

Stus-List Snippage

[Tom Buscaglia]

Hey all

It would really be a big help if, before you send a response to a 
thread, you delete all of the prior unrelated posts, especially if 
you get digests like I do.  I love this list and read everything that 
comes through.  But, these email texts get very long and very 
confusing.  It's becoming quite a chore to figure out which ones are 
the new posts.


It only take a few seconds to cut out the prior unrelated stuff and 
would really make life easier for the rest of us.


thx

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
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Re: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I

[Dennis C.]

Glen,

A friend with a sistership put a holding tank under the V-berth in his 35-1 
(Hull 61).  I can ask him about it if you'd like.  He's not on the list.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA





>
> From: Glen Eddie 
>To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
>Sent: Friday, March 1, 2013 9:15 AM
>Subject: Stus-List Holding Tank for C&C 35 Mk I
> 
>Hello everyone,
>
>I am following up with my previous request for suggestions regarding a holding 
>tank for my C&C 35 Mk I.  Specifically, I have taken out the old  bladder and 
>now intend to put in a new tank.  If I put a rigid tank back under the vanity 
>it will have to be custom made as there does not seem to be any pre made tanks 
>that will fit without tearing apart the vanity in the head, etc.
>
>I have also been told that it will take 10 weeks to build the custom holding 
>tank (for the price of C$640).  
>
>I would appreciate hearing from other C&C 35 owners that have replaced the 
>holding tank with an indication of the size of the tank and where they put it 
>(i.e. v-birth, etc.).
>
>Thanks in advance. 
>
>Freya IV
>Toronto Hydroplane and Sailing Club
>
>
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>
>
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Stus-List Hatch for sale

[Joel Aronson]

http://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/3651209219.html

Not mine.

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List port replacement on 29Mk1

[Martin DeYoung]

I recently purchased a Lewmar Standard Portlight roughly that size (Lewmar size 
#1).  I am about 1/2 way through installing it and am pleased with the fit and 
finish.  I used Lewmar's web site's excellent dimensional and installation 
information to make sure it would fit in the same place.

I bought it through West Marine after searching the interweb for suppliers.  WM 
was offering 10% off and free shipping that week.

The Lewmar portlight is replacing a very old Fuller Brush white plastic 
portlight that may have served well when new but after years of racing abuse it 
allowed water into the core.  The leak was between the molded portlight pieces 
and not readily apparent.

Martin
Calypso
1970 C&C 43
Seattle

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
dre...@gmail.com
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 7:01 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List port replacement on 29Mk1

Dear List,


I am looking to replace the small portlight  in the aft end of the pilot birth 
on a 29mk1.  It looks to be  6x13" in size.  The current portlight has an 
protruding lip, and since the portlight external is in the cockpit, this lip 
has been stepped-on, broken, epoxied, and globbed to death.

Are there any recommendations on which brand and model portlight one should use 
for a more flush-fitting functional access.


Thanks for any advise.

Paul


-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL


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Re: Stus-List Snippage

[dwight veinot]

It's easy to forget to do that sometimes, Tom.  But I wonder why your last 2
posts ended up in my junk mail folder.  On reading them I don't see any
reason why that should have happened but twice in a row is a bit odd.

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Buscaglia
Sent: March 1, 2013 1:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Snippage

 

Hey all

It would really be a big help if, before you send a response to a thread,
you delete all of the prior unrelated posts, especially if you get digests
like I do.  I love this list and read everything that comes through.  But,
these email texts get very long and very confusing.  It's becoming quite a
chore to figure out which ones are the new posts.

It only take a few seconds to cut out the prior unrelated stuff and would
really make life easier for the rest of us. 

thx

Tom B



Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com  


  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2238 / Virus Database: 2641/5640 - Release Date: 03/01/13

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Re: Stus-List Hatch for sale - now big winches

[Rick Brass]

I’m about to put a pair of Merriman-Holbrooke 32 winches on EBay. These were
the primaries on my 38 until last summer. I’ve replaced them with a pair of
Barient 32s that I am converting to self-tailers. I gave up a little power,
but I can add the self-tailing kits to the Barients, which will be great for
short-handed sailing.

 

I thought I’d offer the winches to someone on the list before I put them on
EBay.

 

Merriman 32, 2-speed winches. Black anodized alloy drums. 9 ¾” base diameter
and about 9” tall. Size and power ratios are about consistent with a Harken
60s.

 

Contact me off list if you are interested or want more information.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 12:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Hatch for sale

 

http://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/3651209219.html

 

Not mine.


 

-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List port replacement on 29Mk1

[Frederick G Street]

Amazingly, the Fuller ports are still available:

http://www.fuller.com/marine

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 1, 2013, at 12:47 PM, Martin DeYoung  wrote:

> The Lewmar portlight is replacing a very old Fuller Brush white plastic 
> portlight that may have served well when new but after years of racing abuse 
> it allowed water into the core.  The leak was between the molded portlight 
> pieces and not readily apparent.
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Re: Stus-List port replacement on 29Mk1

[Martin DeYoung]

I looked at the Fuller direct replacement but was spooked by the way water 
worked itself between the molded pieces.  The Lewmar also spiffed up the 
cockpit.  Maybe a newbie boarding the boat for the first time will think it is 
only 20 years old not 40+.

Martin
Calypso
1970 C&C 43
Seattle

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 12:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List port replacement on 29Mk1

Amazingly, the Fuller ports are still available:

http://www.fuller.com/marine

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 1, 2013, at 12:47 PM, Martin DeYoung  wrote:


The Lewmar portlight is replacing a very old Fuller Brush white plastic 
portlight that may have served well when new but after years of racing abuse it 
allowed water into the core.  The leak was between the molded portlight pieces 
and not readily apparent.
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Re: Stus-List port replacement on 29Mk1

[Della Barba, Joe]

My original 1973 Fuller port is working as well as ever. I am not sure where 
water gets in between 

Joe Della Barba

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
DeYoung
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 4:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List port replacement on 29Mk1

I looked at the Fuller direct replacement but was spooked by the way water 
worked itself between the molded pieces.  The Lewmar also spiffed up the 
cockpit.  Maybe a newbie boarding the boat for the first time will think it is 
only 20 years old not 40+.

Martin
Calypso
1970 C&C 43
Seattle

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 12:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List port replacement on 29Mk1

Amazingly, the Fuller ports are still available:

http://www.fuller.com/marine

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 1, 2013, at 12:47 PM, Martin DeYoung 
mailto:mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com>> wrote:

The Lewmar portlight is replacing a very old Fuller Brush white plastic 
portlight that may have served well when new but after years of racing abuse it 
allowed water into the core.  The leak was between the molded portlight pieces 
and not readily apparent.
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Re: Stus-List port replacement on 29Mk1

[Martin DeYoung]

It has been a few months since I removed the Fuller portlight but what I recall 
is the water seeped between the outer flange and the inner flange leading to 
the opening.  The original molded piece had been damaged by years of crew 
resting a knee or foot on the flange when working the cabin top winches.

When we bought the boat in 98 I looked the joint over and it appeared to be 
water tight.  What I found when I removed the portlight was rain/spray water 
worked its way between the inner and outer flanges.  The original Fuller 
portlight installer (not Bruckmann) did not seal the exposed balsa.  I became 
aware of the problem when water began leaking out of an interior screw hole 
near the bridge deck / vertical bulkhead intersection.

My guess is the water intrusion started 20 to 30 years ago.  By mid April I 
will have rebuilt the affected areas with West System epoxy, new balsa, and new 
glass layup. The boat may heel a little to starboard after this but my repairs 
will outlast the rest of the boat.

Martin
Calypso
1970 C&C 43
Seattle

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 1:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List port replacement on 29Mk1

My original 1973 Fuller port is working as well as ever. I am not sure where 
water gets in between 

Joe Della Barba
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Re: Stus-List port replacement on 29Mk1

[Frederick G Street]

And probably outlast all of US, too…   :^)   Plastic -- the gift that keeps on 
giving.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 1, 2013, at 3:51 PM, Martin DeYoung  wrote:

> The boat may heel a little to starboard after this but my repairs will 
> outlast the rest of the boat.

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Stus-List C&C 27 Mk V

[Edd Schillay]

All,

My father, 71, is shopping around for a sailboat to replace the one destroyed 
by Superstorm Sandy. He wants something that he can singlehand and use to teach 
the grandkids sailing. 

He's currently looking at a C&C 27 Mk V. 

Can anyone share their experiences, positive and/or negatives, with the boat? 


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.332.1671  | Fax
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 5
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Re: Stus-List C&C 27 Mk V

[Chuck S]

Hi Edd, 
I've never sailed the 27 MkV, but it's my second favorite C&C design. I almost 
bought a centerboard version, but found a deal on Resolute, instead. 
I think it has great lines, a nice interior layout the photos of her racing 
look gorgeous. Great choice. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: "Edd Schillay"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2013 7:39:44 PM 
Subject: Stus-List C&C 27 Mk V 

All, 

My father, 71, is shopping around for a sailboat to replace the one destroyed 
by Superstorm Sandy. He wants something that he can singlehand and use to teach 
the grandkids sailing. 

He's currently looking at a C&C 27 Mk V. 

Can anyone share their experiences, positive and/or negatives, with the boat? 


All the best, 

Edd 

--- 
Edd M. Schillay 
Starship Enterprise 
NCC-1701-B 
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY 
--- 
914.332.4400 | Office 
914.332.1671 | Fax 
914.774.9767 | Mobile 
--- 
Sent via iPhone 5 
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Stus-List Question

[Harald Braun]

Hi, I am new to this and I don't seem to be able to open the "questions" people 
ask. A few days ago somebody asked a questions about having removed his mast, I 
couldn't dind the questions etc.
What am I doing wrong?

Harald
Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless Network

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Re: Stus-List C&C 27 Mk V

[kirk sneddon]

Sailed on one twice, raced against one many times

Nice balanced helm, responsive. It sails to its PHRF numbers, which are
about the same as my 29 Mk II

A few elements in build were a departure from prior C&Cs for cost
efficiencies but were well executed. They seem to hold up well.

Overall a very nice boat.

Kirk Sneddon
Flying Cloud C&C 29 Mk II

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 7:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 27 Mk V

All,

My father, 71, is shopping around for a sailboat to replace the one
destroyed by Superstorm Sandy. He wants something that he can singlehand and
use to teach the grandkids sailing. 

He's currently looking at a C&C 27 Mk V. 

Can anyone share their experiences, positive and/or negatives, with the
boat? 


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.332.1671  | Fax
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 5
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Re: Stus-List C&C 27 Mk V

[Brent Driedger]

Hi Edd
I have owned a mkV for since 2008 and every year I fall a little more I love 
with it. I primarily single hand it and find it an easy platform to sail on. Of 
course I speak being a nimble 39 year old. 
Mine is set up for racing with a foil on the headstay but if set up with 
furling, lazy jacks and a little more purchase on the main sheet, I don't see 
any reason why a 71 year old in descent shape wouldn't be able to handle her. 
She's a bit tender but learning when to reef before its really needed will make 
things simple. Mkv's came from the factory with Barient  18's or 21's. The 18s 
are fine for recreation but are a little under powered when the wind is over 15 
knots with a 155. An upgrade to bigger self tailing winches would be useful. 
The systems are simple and with the rudder being transom hung there is less 
confined space maintenance. 
Her 1GM10 diesel is simple to use, prime, maintain and under the right 
conditions can even be started by hand using a crank if necessary. 
They excel when the wind is up but offer sluggish competition in light air. Of 
course that may just reflect my own shortcomings :) I find she handles very 
well under sail and motor, turns 360 almost within her length.
Livability seems ok although I have not had any extended stays aboard. Storage 
space below is poor as tanks etc take up a lot of space forward and to 
starboard. I have no experience sailing her fully loaded for a 2 week trip. 
Watch for the usual old boat culprits, wet decks, leaking chain plates and 
rotted bulkheads, nothing out of the ordinary there. The windows will leak if 
they have never been re-bed and I have heard of hard to trace leaks coming from 
the anchor locker. 
The cockpit combing is sloped outboard and I'm still trying to get used to 
that. It's great for sitting on when burying the toe rail but it can be a 
little dangerous to step on if your not expecting it. Add to that the factory 
non skid was rather poor and when wet it is somewhat useless. 
Your father will really enjoy owning a mark V.

Cheers

Brent Driedger
27 mkV #15
s/v Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg


Sent from my iPhone

On 2013-03-01, at 6:39 PM, Edd Schillay  wrote:

> All,
> 
> My father, 71, is shopping around for a sailboat to replace the one destroyed 
> by Superstorm Sandy. He wants something that he can singlehand and use to 
> teach the grandkids sailing. 
> 
> He's currently looking at a C&C 27 Mk V. 
> 
> Can anyone share their experiences, positive and/or negatives, with the boat? 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> NCC-1701-B
> C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
> ---
> 914.332.4400  | Office
> 914.332.1671  | Fax
> 914.774.9767  | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone 5
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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Re: Stus-List Question

[Graham Collins]

Hello Harald
There is some peculiarity about the email list where some messages do 
not get through to some recipients.   My regular email address did not 
work properly with the email list, so I have had to resort to setting up 
a hotmail account and checking that.


What'cha sailing and where are ya?  Welcome!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2013-03-01 9:39 PM, Harald Braun wrote:

Hi, I am new to this and I don't seem to be able to open the "questions" people 
ask. A few days ago somebody asked a questions about having removed his mast, I couldn't 
dind the questions etc.
What am I doing wrong?

Harald
Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless Network

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Re: Stus-List C&C 27 Mk V

[Rich Knowles]

I'm not sure whether this is particularly useful, but a fellow club member, 
Denis Linton, sailed a MK V to Ireland from Halifax about 15 or so years ago, 
and I believe also to Bermuda. Single handed both trips. He seemed quite 
satisfied with the boat but did say he did a lot of sail changes. I'd make sure 
that whatever you wind up with has roller furling. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-03-01, at 20:39, Edd Schillay  wrote:

All,

My father, 71, is shopping around for a sailboat to replace the one destroyed 
by Superstorm Sandy. He wants something that he can singlehand and use to teach 
the grandkids sailing. 

He's currently looking at a C&C 27 Mk V. 

Can anyone share their experiences, positive and/or negatives, with the boat? 


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.332.1671  | Fax
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 5
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Re: Stus-List C&C 27 Mk V

[Antoine Rose]

I owned one for two years, while my boat was stored in France. I had to be able 
to 
Plus: fast, points very well, easy to steer, very fun to race but requires some 
good knowledge in tuning the mast. It requires a 15" rake to preform well. But 
the 15" rake makes it more difficult to steer. For cruising purposes, I would 
stay within 12" rake.
Well built, nice interior, but it is not for it's live aboard amenities that I 
bought it. Easily handled single handed provided that you have an autopilot to 
leave the helm. Mine had a race roller furling with three genoa, two mylars. I 
switched to mylar sails for every race and switch back to ordinary dacron for 
cruising. For heavier winds, I had a blade jib that worked beautifully. Dow 
wind, the boat speed can jump by as much as one knot by moving the crew forward 
to get the transom out of the water for less drag.

Things to be careful with: floorboard tends to rot if water is left in the 
bilge. I had to redo the floor because of careless previous owner. The main 
bulkhead supporting the mast is rather thin on starboard side of the door 
leading to the head. I've seen cracks on some MkV precisely there, upper corner 
of the door, starboard. Mine didn't have it. Didn't like the pressure alcohol 
stove. I found the rudder hardware a bit on the light side. There was some 
wobbling in the helm at high speed. Good engine: Yanmar IGM. No big issues, 
Every boats have their flaws, it's just important to know them. 

Would recommend the boat anytime, Good and stable market value. Don't turn it 
too much into a cruising boat, this a boat valued by racers.

Antoine (Cousin C&C 30)

Le 2013-03-01 à 19:39, Edd Schillay a écrit :

> All,
> 
> My father, 71, is shopping around for a sailboat to replace the one destroyed 
> by Superstorm Sandy. He wants something that he can singlehand and use to 
> teach the grandkids sailing. 
> 
> He's currently looking at a C&C 27 Mk V. 
> 
> Can anyone share their experiences, positive and/or negatives, with the boat? 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> NCC-1701-B
> C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
> ---
> 914.332.4400  | Office
> 914.332.1671  | Fax
> 914.774.9767  | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone 5
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com


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Stus-List C&C Rendezvous 2013

[Robert Gallagher]

We have let the poll run for nearly a month and the results are in.

Publishing the actual results via the fluidsurveys.com website would
require a paid subscription.  That seems like a waste of resources so I
will take the liberty to summarize the results.

We received 40 legitimate responses.  For some strange reason, not everyone
completed every question.  Even stranger, one person wanted us all to
travel to Savannah and buy blueberry pie.

Location:
Block Island - 8
Mystic - 6
Clinton - 5
Stonington - 5
Greenport - 5
"Other" - 10

As to the write-in votes in "Other" that *would not* affect the results,
one vote each for:
Anywhere accessible by car
Port Jefferson
New London/Groton
Cape Cod
Any port except Clinton
Clinton

As to the write-in votes in "Other" that *would* affect the results, one
vote each for:
Stonington, Mystic, Block Island, in that order  +1 for Stonington
Block Island, Shelter Island, Milford, Branford  +1 for Block Island
Block Island but I fear it may be crowded  9/6 9/8  +1 for Block Island
Any prefer Stonington or Mystic = +1 for Stonington

These "Other" votes change the top two totals:
Block Island - 10
Stonington - 7

Weekend of event:
Sept 6-8 - 13
Sept 13-15 - 12
Other - 13

"Other" write-in votes:
Those who wrote in "open", "any", "either", etc. - 4
Those who wrote in a date in "July", "August", or "before Labor Day" - 4
One vote noted that "Sept 13-15 is Off Soundings, will be full", I count as
1 vote for Sept 6 - 8
Sept 6 - 8 seems to be the winner here.

What to do with the money:
Bring Rob Ball back - 13
Donate to a local Charity - 8
Other - 9

"Other" write in votes:
Give to Stu - 5
Bar/Party - 3
No suggestion - 1
Rob Ball is a clear winner, and again, anything left over can be given to
Stu and/or a local charity.  Maybe we can do both.  Hat's off to those who
voted with their liver, kindred spirits are we, first rounds on me!

Event price:
Keep it at $35 - 25
Raise the price - 13

So my math says it's Block Island, September 6, Rob Ball, $35, be there or
be square.

David Risch was kind enough to contact Rob Ball and it sounds like he will
be able to make it.

For those of you who can't bring your C&C, ferry service is easy, you don't
really need a car on Block Island, and could easily park it at the ferry
terminal on the mainland.

Maybe, just maybe, some of us who are 1/2 a daysail away might volunteer to
sail some attendees over (weather permitting)?

I will contact a hotel within walking distance to Great Salt Pond/The Oar
for a group rate if anyone is interested.  Please email me.

Block Island is glorious in September!  Great Salt Pond is easy in/out, I'm
hoping we can all get our for a sail on Saturday afternoon.

Stay tuned.

Rob Gallagher
trys...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List C&C Rendezvous 2013

[Jim Watts]

You guys are doing great! Would you like to organize ours too? Please?



On 1 March 2013 21:16, Robert Gallagher  wrote:

> We have let the poll run for nearly a month and the results are in.
>
> Publishing the actual results via the fluidsurveys.com website would
> require a paid subscription.  That seems like a waste of resources so I
> will take the liberty to summarize the results.
>
> We received 40 legitimate responses.  For some strange reason, not
> everyone completed every question.  Even stranger, one person wanted us all
> to travel to Savannah and buy blueberry pie.
>
> Location:
> Block Island - 8
> Mystic - 6
> Clinton - 5
> Stonington - 5
> Greenport - 5
> "Other" - 10
>
> As to the write-in votes in "Other" that *would not* affect the results,
> one vote each for:
> Anywhere accessible by car
> Port Jefferson
> New London/Groton
> Cape Cod
> Any port except Clinton
> Clinton
>
> As to the write-in votes in "Other" that *would* affect the results, one
> vote each for:
> Stonington, Mystic, Block Island, in that order  +1 for Stonington
> Block Island, Shelter Island, Milford, Branford  +1 for Block Island
> Block Island but I fear it may be crowded  9/6 9/8  +1 for Block Island
> Any prefer Stonington or Mystic = +1 for Stonington
>
> These "Other" votes change the top two totals:
> Block Island - 10
> Stonington - 7
>
> Weekend of event:
> Sept 6-8 - 13
> Sept 13-15 - 12
> Other - 13
>
> "Other" write-in votes:
> Those who wrote in "open", "any", "either", etc. - 4
> Those who wrote in a date in "July", "August", or "before Labor Day" - 4
> One vote noted that "Sept 13-15 is Off Soundings, will be full", I count
> as 1 vote for Sept 6 - 8
> Sept 6 - 8 seems to be the winner here.
>
> What to do with the money:
> Bring Rob Ball back - 13
> Donate to a local Charity - 8
> Other - 9
>
> "Other" write in votes:
> Give to Stu - 5
> Bar/Party - 3
> No suggestion - 1
> Rob Ball is a clear winner, and again, anything left over can be given to
> Stu and/or a local charity.  Maybe we can do both.  Hat's off to those who
> voted with their liver, kindred spirits are we, first rounds on me!
>
> Event price:
> Keep it at $35 - 25
> Raise the price - 13
>
> So my math says it's Block Island, September 6, Rob Ball, $35, be there or
> be square.
>
> David Risch was kind enough to contact Rob Ball and it sounds like he will
> be able to make it.
>
> For those of you who can't bring your C&C, ferry service is easy, you
> don't really need a car on Block Island, and could easily park it at the
> ferry terminal on the mainland.
>
> Maybe, just maybe, some of us who are 1/2 a daysail away might volunteer
> to sail some attendees over (weather permitting)?
>
> I will contact a hotel within walking distance to Great Salt Pond/The Oar
> for a group rate if anyone is interested.  Please email me.
>
> Block Island is glorious in September!  Great Salt Pond is easy in/out,
> I'm hoping we can all get our for a sail on Saturday afternoon.
>
> Stay tuned.
>
> Rob Gallagher
> trys...@gmail.com
>
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>
>


-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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