Hey Brizbarn,

Correct, tail light should be powered through the appropoite connector on 
the headlight. I believe the tail light has a lower power requirement than 
what the dynamo provides. 

I attached a diagram that is the same wiring scheme as my bike and what 
your message discribes, its easier for me to understand if I draw it than 
to write it out (electrical peeps, forgive me for the + and -). Sounds like 
what you described would work though! You can pull those little red caps 
off the ring terminals (loop crimp) and use heat shrink for a cleaner look. 
The connections can be soldered or crimped in place. 

Christian
Phoenix, AZ


On Thursday, May 25, 2023 at 4:45:37 PM UTC-7 brizbarn wrote:

> Hey Christian and Matthew, thanks for the posts.  Wow, that frame routing 
> looks great Matthew, didn't realize you could go through the chain stay, 
> good work.  I'm planning something very similar, but not sure I'll go 
> through the frame.  B&M IQ-XS front light, B&M U, My, Mini (whatever it's 
> called) rear, with Shutter Precision hub. 
>
> Some follow up Christian:  My understanding is that you should not power a 
> rear light straight from the dynamo hub, but rather from the front light. 
> Not sure if that is what you meant.  My thought was to use the existing 
> spade connectors from front light (you can see in first pic), ground one of 
> those to the front rack, and run one strand of Velo Lumino thin wire to 
> rear light via the other spade connector.  Then connect it with a spade 
> connector to the rear light, and ground the rear light to the frame (via a 
> rack eyelet where I'll be mounting the light).  You said running two stands 
> of Velo Lumino wire is more straight forward, but do you think my plan 
> would work?
> [image: IMG_0129.JPG] 
> [image: IMG_0131.JPG]for reference: Left is Velo Lumino 22 wire. Right is 
> B&M double strand. If I need to run two strands of Velo L wire from front 
> to rear light, its not much thinner than running B&M double strand, just 
> more pliable and better insulated is my understanding.
> [image: IMG_0133.JPG]for reference in this pic: B&M double strand wire 
> with spade connectors, two spade terminals, a banana connector, a loop 
> crimp for grounding.
>
>
> On Thursday, May 25, 2023 at 1:46:41 PM UTC-7 christian poppell wrote:
>
>> Hey Matthew, 
>>
>> I’m replying on my phone so apologies in advance for any typos or 
>> non-standard formatting. 
>>
>> Running two wires to the taillight from the dynamo is probably the best 
>> and loner straightforward way to do it. It’s a closed system and easy to 
>> track down any issues if they arise. 
>>
>> I’m not sure which model B&M light you have but you can certainly try 
>> grounding one side of the dynamo and one side of light to the fork and 
>> frame respectively. I’ve heard the anodizing on some higher quality 
>> cartridge bearing headsets (Chris King, etc) can prevent the continuity 
>> between the fork and the frame. In the past folks have suggested removing 
>> the anodization around the neck of the headset cup to allow current to pass 
>> through. It’s easy to check for continuity between frame and fork; set a 
>> multimeter to resistance (ohms) and touch one probe to bare metal on the 
>> fork, and the other probe to bare metal on the frame (eyelet or dropout 
>> works well). If the needle or number is close or on zero you shouldn’t have 
>> a problem. If there’s no change in reading then you don’t have continuity, 
>> probe around and start troubleshooting :)
>>
>> Splitting a single length of Velo Lumino wire into two and adding spade 
>> terminals would not work, right?
>>
>>
>> Not sure what you mean by the above. The Velo Lumino wire that I have is 
>> a single strand. One of the headlight companies includes a two stranded 
>> 22ga wire that can be split into single strands. The insulation on that 
>> wire is less durable and larger in diameter making it difficult to pull 
>> through small holes. One strand is black and the other is white, bare wire 
>> is copper. Is that the wire you’re referring to?
>>
>> The wire Velo Lumino sells is thin (22ga?) and has a tough but thin 
>> insulation that is much smaller in diameter to hardware store wire or 
>> anything else I’ve found. I find it easier to work with compared to the 
>> coaxial wire Schmidt uses on their lights. 
>>
>> In the next few months I’ll be reconfiguring my lighting setup. I can 
>> snap some photos and draw some diagrams if you’d like some more detailed 
>> information on how it’s configured. 
>>
>> Hope that’s helpful! 
>>
>> Christian 
>> Phoenix, AZ 
>>
>>
>> On May 24, 2023, at 15:08, brizbarn <brizba...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Christian, thanks for the pics and example.  I have some of the Velo 
>> Lumino wire.  With a a B&M light, would I need to run two wires to a rear 
>> B&M light?  Or do something similar to what you show in your pics, 
>> grounding to the frame on both the headlight and taillight ends, and just 
>> running one length of wire to the rear light?   Splitting a single length 
>> of Velo Lumino wire into two and adding spade terminals would not work, 
>> right?
>>
>>
>> On Monday, March 27, 2023 at 9:57:03 AM UTC-7 christian poppell wrote:
>>
>>> Hey Matthew, 
>>>
>>> Smaller wire is fine. The wire that Velo Lumino sells is perfect. Any 
>>> 22  or 24gauge multistrand wire would work but the Velo Lumino wire is 
>>> flexible and has very durable insulation. You could also seperate the BM 
>>> dual strand wire. The insulation is thicker and less durable but works 
>>> fine. 
>>>
>>> If the hole diameter is too small to pull two wires you can ground 
>>> through the frame. Ground one side of the dynamo to the fork eyelet 
>>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/xBqTJ575zxQkeUC49 then ground one side of the 
>>> light to the mount or other hard point 
>>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/wPGMviZF9n5cYycn6. Run a single wire through 
>>> the fork and connect to the light. 
>>>
>>> Hope that makes sense! I can draw up a diagram if thats helpful. How 
>>> much wire do you need? I might have some to spare if needed. Also what 
>>> light and dynamo are you using?
>>>
>>> Christian
>>> Phoenix, AZ
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, March 22, 2023 at 9:53:38 PM UTC-7 Matthew Williams wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi everyone,
>>>>
>>>> In the weeks to come I’m going to be revisiting the 
>>>> wire-inside-the-fork trick. However, the hole is too small for the 
>>>> existing 
>>>> dynamo wires and I do not want to enlarge the hole.
>>>>
>>>> What would happen if I used a smaller-gauge wire inside the fork, to 
>>>> connect the dynamo to the headlight?
>>>>
>>>> Will a smaller-gauge wire be unable to handle the voltage/amperage from 
>>>> the dynamo? Will the headlight and taillight outputs be weaker? Or will 
>>>> the 
>>>> difference between the existing/stock wire and a smaller gauge be 
>>>> imperceptible?
>>>>
>>>> As always, your wisdom, advice, experience, and opinions are 
>>>> appreciated!
>>>>
>>>> On Sunday, November 20, 2022 at 10:13:40 PM UTC-8 Matthew Williams 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hi everyone, 
>>>>
>>>> Most bikes I see with the SON dynamo have the wire wound around the 
>>>> right front fork blade. I want to run the wire inside the fork using the 
>>>> small hole near the dropout. 
>>>>
>>>> I’ve already fished a thin wire through the fork as a leader i.e. I can 
>>>> attach the leader to the SON dynamo wire and pull it through the fork, 
>>>> unless the dynamo wire is too thick. Below are photos of the leader wire I 
>>>> fished through the fork. 
>>>>
>>>> Is this possible, or is it a bad idea? Has anyone here managed to 
>>>> achieve this setup? If so, how did you do it, and please post photos of 
>>>> your internal wiring setups! 
>>>>
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