I have occasionally experienced this too. Eventually it will release.
The ultimate fix is to cut the top of the post off just above the end
of the seat tube, then use a hacksaw blade down inside the post to cut
a slot.  This always works.  Just be careful you don't cut into the
seat tube:  gentle does it with frequent checks using a flashlight.
To prevent freezing, I finally bought a rotary hone for my drill to
clean up the seat tube before inserting the post.  Clean old grease
out of the seat tube using brake cleaner on a rag, then use the hone
to remove corrosion and just barely smooth the walls. Spray Boeshield
or Framesaver to seal it.  Use some 600 grade sandpaper on your old
seat post to likewise remove any aluminum corrosion blooms and smooth
the wall where it inserts into the tube.  Lather with Phil grease,
reinsert, tighten.  For more protection, remove the grease from the
top of the tube and place a tiny silicone bead to seal it and keep
rain out if this is a problem.
And your advice about occasional removal is good.



On Jun 23, 5:23 am, Bob <linthi...@gmail.com> wrote:
> My daily rider, a vintage steel Trek, is now afflicted. This is
> embarrassing, because I remember pulling the post about two years ago
> and slathering it with Phil Wood grease and Park Anti-Seize.  Oh well.
>
> Thus far, I have tried removing the saddle and tapping with a mallet
> and wooden block; heating with a hair dryer after dripping Liquid
> Wrench and other penetrants from all sides; and just about every
> technique Sheldon recommended on his site.
>
> I am trying not do do something so rash that I damage any equipment.
>
> Luckily, the seat height is just about right, but I just can't sleep
> knowing one of my rides has a frozen 'post.
>
> Word to the wise:  Pull your post occasionally, because you can . . .
>
> Peace,
> Bob
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