Nice set up! The clamps on the fork look very much like the strips I bought and used to hold a Tubus Tara lowrider in place during a 5 month tour in Asia.
Just like to ad that I have used zip-ties many times on road bikes that lack room for any type of clamp and it has worked ok. But I have found the quality of zip-ties vary to say the least, even amongst the same bag. So for bikes used on uneven ground and with room to spare I think it's unwise to take any shortcuts. Always bring some extra zip's just in case, but I fail to see what good would it do if one breaks during speed and cause the fender to fold and me to OTB? ;) On 16 Dec, 22:06, George Schick <bhim...@gmail.com> wrote: > OK, you can now view the fenders on the MTB > athttp://www.flickr.com/photos/gp_rider/sets/72157611336739952/ > Sorry about the trite indoor against-the-garage-door shoot, but it's > cold, snowing, and nasty outside. > > On Dec 16, 12:35 pm, George Schick <bhim...@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > During the cold, soggy Winter months I put the road bikes away and get > > out the dual-boinger MTB. But I loathe riding through the crap that > > those knobby off-road tires kick up from the pulverized limestone > > trails around this area. So I bought a pair of the widest 65mm > > fenders that SKS makes, having been warned that regular fenders > > *can't* be mounted on a dual-suspension frame, and proceeded to do so. > > > The plastic "quick detach" mounts were fastened to the front shock > > forks using some of that galvanized steel strap with holes in it that > > comes in rolls that plumbers use to hang pipe and looks like an over- > > sized roll of caps that kids use in their toy guns. Wrapping a cut > > length of this stuff around a fork arm, over a strip of rubber chair > > tread to protect the finish, a nut and bolt were run through holes and > > through the quick detach mount and tightened. The brake bolt mount on > > top of the fender was removed, new holes were drilled on both front > > and back of where the fender snugs up against the shock fork bridge, > > and zip ties were run through the holes and over the bridge. Now > > there's a full-length fender that moves with the wheel instead of the > > short, nearly useless fender that's typically mounted on the fork > > crown. > > > For the rear I used vinyl-coated P-clamps around the seat stays along > > with an additional set of quick detach mounts, the left side mounted > > higher to clear the disk brake and the fender struts bent to > > accomodate. Since stay and chain stays are not part of the pivot > > points for the rear suspension of this particular bike (Trek Fuel > > 90), I drilled more fender holes where it meets the seat and chain > > stay bridges and used zip ties to attach. It works perfectly. If I > > get the chance I'll try to snap a couple of pix of this set up and get > > them onto a Flicker site or similar. > > > On Dec 16, 11:32 am, fenderbender <pedal_kr...@yahoo.se> wrote: > > > > Same thing nearly happend to me while out training. > > > If there's any room for P-clamps, hose-clamps, bolts 'n nuts with big > > > washers to spread the load then do use'm. Strips of metal from > > > buildingsurply stores can be bent if you cant find the right clamps. > > > If your riding in snow or uneven ground it might save the day. > > > > On 16 Dec, 18:17, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery <thill....@gmail.com> > > > wrote: > > > > > A few years ago, taking a short-cut, I temporarily zip-tied a Berthoud > > > > fender to the fork crown of my Atlantis. Temporary became permanent, > > > > and I soon forgot to attach the fender with the proper hardware. > > > > Months later I was grinding up the steepest hill in these parts on a > > > > cold January day, when the zip-tie(s) finally gave out. The front > > > > fender rolled into the fork and stopped the wheel dead. I lurched > > > > forward and smashed my groin area on the corner of the stem. It hurt. > > > > > If you're going to do this, I'd recommend a regular check of zip-tie > > > > integrity. > > > > > On Dec 16, 10:52 am, "PATRICK MOORE" <bertin...@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > > I'm cross posting in case some on the RBW list don't subscribe to > > > > > iBob, and > > > > > because, of course, zip ties are an Official Rivendell Topic. > > > > > > I've mounted P Bike fat fenders on my 29er, which doesn't have any > > > > > fender > > > > > braze ons. Moreover, the seat- and chainstay bridges are flat plates, > > > > > not > > > > > tubes. So I've attached the front struts to the fork legs with two > > > > > zip ties > > > > > per strut; at the rear, double zips at both bridges and a single one > > > > > at the > > > > > end of the Velo Orange bag support to hold the end of the truncated > > > > > rear > > > > > fender instead of struts. > > > > > > Given (1) that plastic gets brittle in the cold, and it's cold here; > > > > > and (2) > > > > > that the bridges are plates and thus relatively thin of edge: how > > > > > durable > > > > > might this attachment setup be? (I have packed extra zip ties in the > > > > > Nelson.) > > > > > > I should just get some fat P clamps for the fork legs, but what other > > > > > methods of attachment might I use for the bridge-plates? The rear > > > > > fender has > > > > > no metal brackets, just holes for the zip ties. > > > > > > Wire?- Dölj citerad text - > > > > > - Visa citerad text -- Dölj citerad text - > > - Visa citerad text - --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
