OK, you can now view the fenders on the MTB at
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gp_rider/sets/72157611336739952/
Sorry about the trite indoor against-the-garage-door shoot, but it's
cold, snowing, and nasty outside.

On Dec 16, 12:35 pm, George Schick <bhim...@gmail.com> wrote:
> During the cold, soggy Winter months I put the road bikes away and get
> out the dual-boinger MTB.  But I loathe riding through the crap that
> those knobby off-road tires kick up from the pulverized limestone
> trails around this area.  So I bought a pair of the widest 65mm
> fenders that SKS makes, having been warned that regular fenders
> *can't* be mounted on a dual-suspension frame, and proceeded to do so.
>
> The plastic "quick detach" mounts were fastened to the front shock
> forks using some of that galvanized steel strap with holes in it that
> comes in rolls that plumbers use to hang pipe and looks like an over-
> sized roll of caps that kids use in their toy guns.  Wrapping a cut
> length of this stuff around a fork arm, over a strip of rubber chair
> tread to protect the finish, a nut and bolt were run through holes and
> through the quick detach mount and tightened.  The brake bolt mount on
> top of the fender was removed, new holes were drilled on both front
> and back of where the fender snugs up against the shock fork bridge,
> and zip ties were run through the holes and over the bridge.  Now
> there's a full-length fender that moves with the wheel instead of the
> short, nearly useless fender that's typically mounted on the fork
> crown.
>
> For the rear I used vinyl-coated P-clamps around the seat stays along
> with an additional set of quick detach mounts, the left side mounted
> higher to clear the disk brake and the fender struts bent to
> accomodate. Since stay and chain stays are not part of the pivot
> points for the rear suspension of this particular bike (Trek Fuel
> 90),  I drilled more fender holes where it meets the seat and chain
> stay bridges and used zip ties to attach.  It works perfectly.  If I
> get the chance I'll try to snap a couple of pix of this set up and get
> them onto a Flicker site or similar.
>
> On Dec 16, 11:32 am, fenderbender <pedal_kr...@yahoo.se> wrote:
>
> > Same thing nearly happend to me while out training.
> > If there's any room for P-clamps, hose-clamps, bolts 'n nuts with big
> > washers to spread the load then do use'm. Strips of metal from
> > buildingsurply stores can be bent if you cant find the right clamps.
> > If your riding in snow or uneven ground it might save the day.
>
> > On 16 Dec, 18:17, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery <thill....@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
>
> > > A few years ago, taking a short-cut, I temporarily zip-tied a Berthoud
> > > fender to the fork crown of my Atlantis. Temporary became permanent,
> > > and I soon forgot to attach the fender with the proper hardware.
> > > Months later I was grinding up the steepest hill in these parts on a
> > > cold January day, when the zip-tie(s) finally gave out. The front
> > > fender rolled into the fork and stopped the wheel dead. I lurched
> > > forward and smashed my groin area on the corner of the stem. It hurt.
>
> > > If you're going to do this, I'd recommend a regular check of zip-tie
> > > integrity.
>
> > > On Dec 16, 10:52 am, "PATRICK MOORE" <bertin...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > > I'm cross posting in case some on the RBW list don't subscribe to iBob, 
> > > > and
> > > > because, of course, zip ties are an Official Rivendell Topic.
>
> > > > I've mounted P Bike fat fenders on my 29er, which doesn't have any 
> > > > fender
> > > > braze ons. Moreover, the seat- and chainstay bridges are flat plates, 
> > > > not
> > > > tubes. So I've attached the front struts to the fork legs with two zip 
> > > > ties
> > > > per strut; at the rear, double zips at both bridges and a single one at 
> > > > the
> > > > end of the Velo Orange bag support to hold the end of the truncated rear
> > > > fender instead of struts.
>
> > > > Given (1) that plastic gets brittle in the cold, and it's cold here; 
> > > > and (2)
> > > > that the bridges are plates and thus relatively thin of edge: how 
> > > > durable
> > > > might this attachment setup be? (I have packed extra zip ties in the
> > > > Nelson.)
>
> > > > I should just get some fat P clamps for the fork legs, but what other
> > > > methods of attachment might I use for the bridge-plates? The rear 
> > > > fender has
> > > > no metal brackets, just holes for the zip ties.
>
> > > > Wire?- Dölj citerad text -
>
> > > - Visa citerad text -
--~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en
-~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---

Reply via email to