That's exactly what I have been wanting to say... You can spend all the money in the world for a super duper telephoto lens or you can save your money and have some patience and still get the shot. I'm not saying a long lens isn't sometimes necessary, but patience does not cost you anything but time. Vic
In a message dated 7/12/03 6:50:24 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: >> Using a 500 mirror (which is NOT too long for zoo shots, btw) > >> gives me a max shutter speed of about 125 with 800 speed > >> film in most situations on bright days at noon. Many shots > >> are impossible with such a slow lens. > > > >I haven't read all of the emails, but rather caught the above blurb from > > >someone's response. However, I felt compelled to mention that the more >I read, > >the more this is starting to sound moreso like a need for better technique > > >rather than better equipment (even though both may very well be the case). >By > >technique, I mean a few things: > > > >a) perhaps being more patient. If the animal is not in a good vantage point > > >(e.g., not close enough) then sometimes you just gotta wait it out. Sometimes > > >seconds, sometimes minutes... sometimes it just means "maybe another day". >In > >some instances it can simply mean finding a better point to shoot from. >But of > >course this is not always possible. Sur, You may be able to reach things >that > >you couldn't before but keep in mind: 1) f2.8 + 2x TC + at least 1 stop >for > >good measure (or even 2 for DOF) = your right back at f8 or f11. and 2) >as Mark > >pointed out, dealing with that 2x TC can really knock your image quality >down a > >few notches anyway. > > > >b) Learn the behavior of your subjects. The reason I say this is because >you > >seem unsatisfied with a 1/125 sec. shutter speed, and suggested that this > > >makes "many shots...impossible". This kinda baffles me since I can't remember > > >the last time I was able to shoot above 1/100 with either the 300mm f2.8 >OR the > >400 f2.8.. > > > >Given that the best zoo photos are typically on overcast days and/or with > > >animals shying away from direct sunlight, I usually live around the 1/30 >to > >1/60 range, with 1/15 not being unusual. Granted, I use ISO 100 film... >but the > >point is that it (slow speeds) works, and few shots are "impossible" unless > > >you're specifically trying to freeze action. You just need timing. And >a whole > >heap of patience for that right moment (which may literally last 1 second >as > >the animals pauses for thought or changes direction). > > > >I kinda sensed the "if I had a big fast lens, then click click click and > > >excellent photos are mine" syndrome for a second there. So I just thought >I'd > >mention this since I'd hate for you (or anyone) to spend a heap of money >on > >fast primes and be totally disenchanted when they find that the equipment > > >additions didn't "save the day". > >
