---Original Message-----
For anyone using a belly board on their KR's

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I sent Joe a bunch of info directly.  I recalled seeing an electrical drawing of board up / down circuit I used.  Hand drawn and primitive.

This one a very basic drawing. https://www.dropbox.com/s/6xz9puozepqk1d8/speed%20brake%20switch%20002.jpg?dl=0

This is my circuit with all terminal boards, breaker, etc.. https://www.dropbox.com/s/x4e5wt0qaukev5y/speed%20brake%20switch%20001.jpg?dl=0

Left half is electrical path with motor running up, right half is circuit with motor running down.  Looks complicated but it's just cluttered with all the info. I used a "double pole / double throw" flap switch out of a Cessna.  If you start from + (battery) and follow the line through the circuit you should end up at - (ground) and the motor will run that direction until the limit switch is tripped.  Then go to the down side and do the same.

Here is the info I sent to Joe.


Joe,

Mine is 9 inches by the width of the fuselage with holes and lowers to nearly 90 degrees

http://myplace.frontier.com/~flesner/19.jpg

It may be a bit of an overkill but not much.  I use it full down on every landing.  Full down I have to carry a bit of power to keep the sink rate from getting too high but that really stabilizes the approach at about 500 fpm.  Idle power and I'd get 1500 fpm sink rate.  Holes or no holes?  Who knows.  That's what the Navy used in WWII so I went with holes.  I do get a bit of "rumble" with it full down but no control problems.

Things to consider.  What is the length of your gear?  Ground clearance when down.  Is yours a nose dragger? If so clearance is probably not a problem.  I use the jack screw portion of a Cessna flap motor on mine.  Heavy but it was free and had limit switches I could adjust.

http://myplace.frontier.com/~flesner/02092593.jpg

Mine is mounted to the floor immediately behind the rear spar.  I got a piece of 1/4" pine from the lumber yard , 1 1/2" X 1/4" X width of fuselage to beef up the floor.  Piano hinge bolted to the bottom and floxed to the board with many 1/8" holes drilled in that hinge half and a layer of glass over that.  A piece of foam on the front half of the hinge for an air ramp to streamline.  My board is just a piece of 1/4" foam with a layer of glass on both sides and a wood block laid in where the jack screw attaches.  I'd hate to think of flying without it.  Big difference on landings. I can climb with it down but slow.  I normally lower the board at 100 / 110 mph on base to kill some speed and then bring in a bit of power at 90 mph to keep the decent at 500 fpm or so, hold that on final till close in and slow to 80 mph over the numbers and flare.  Works for me but I'm heavy and short wings.

Check out my video and go to the end where the board comes down. Just after the 1:40 minute mark.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgdgxVgPNAk&t=6s

Is you project rounded on the bottom?  If so that could be a mounting problem.

Larry


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