Some ammeters have internal shunts.  The ones used in aircraft usually use
external shunts though.  One usual indication of a meter with an internal
shunt is that it will have big (maybe 1/4") terminals on it.  The external
shunt ones usually have something like #8 screw terminals on them.  If it is
an internal shunt meter I would recommend replacing it with an external
shunt one unless you like big wires carrying a lot of amps behind your
panel.

If you do need to get a shunt you will need the correct one for your meter.
Who makes the meter?  Start with them.  If it is a Westach you can find
wiring information on their web site.  You can also buy a nice new one for
$90 or a dual volt/amp meter for $122 from Spruce.



Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com

-----Original Message-----
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
Behalf Of pe...@heroic.co.uk
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 8:44 AM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: Re: KR> SHUNTS


>  If I remember this correctly, there needs to be a shunt in the
> electrical
> system  either internal in the ammeter or between the master switch and
> ammeter.  See,  this is where I'm rusty and need help with wiring. My
> ammeter doesn't  have an  internal shunt, so I need an external
> one-----right?  And to make   sure, it goes  where?
>    Mike

Hi
A shunt goes in PARALLEL with your ammeter, imagine your ammeter as a
narrow pipe, not much can flow thru it, the shunt is a larger pipe, so
most the flow is thru the shunt, and a small amount of current flows thru
the ammeter. The proportion of flow is fixed by the size of the shun.

So if you have a multi range ammeter, you may have several different size
shunts, and a switch to choose which one to put in parallel.

An ammeter shunt has to be the one specified for that particular ammeter,
if you use someone else's shunt, it will read inaccurately over the whole
current range.

Pete





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