I use the same method on the Stang which has basically the same type of
gear.  I use a piece of 2 X 4 on each side of the gear and 2 C clamps.  I
cut the end of one of the 2 X 4s at an angle so it is parallel with the
ground when clamped on.  I use a bottle jack unde it.

On the KR I did it different.  I nailed a couple of pieces of scrap wood
together to make about a 6" tall block.  This would go under the bottom of
the gear leg where the steel bracket bolted on for the plane to rest on when
jacked.  I had axles with 1/4-28 threaded holes in the ends where the pants
attach.  I would put a 3" bolt in that hole and use it as a jacking point.
My jack consisted of about a 4' long 2 X 4 with a drywall screw in it about
10" from one end.  I would just use the board as a lever under the bolt in
the axle and lift the plane by hand.  The drywall screw would go under the
bolt and keep the plane from sliding down the 2 X 4 when lifting.  Once I
got it up a few inches with one hand I would use the other hand to slide my
block under the gear leg on the inside of the wheel.  Simple and cheap.

Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com

-----Original Message-----
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
Behalf Of Mark Langford
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 10:25 AM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR> jacking a KR


The best way I've found is to use a C-clamp to clamp to the gear leg at some
convenient height, padded by a piece of plywood on each side (a
plywood/gearleg sandwich).  The the jack hooks the head of the C-clamp and
you jack it up.  I've seen incarnations of this whereby a piece of steel is
welded up at the proper angle with something sticking down for the jack to
catch, is clamped in position the same way, and then jacked up.  But the
clamp and plywood blocks works like a charm.  I use a floor jack, so tipping
isn't a problem...

Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama
see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford
email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net


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