>It seems that my bellcranks may have been made alittle shy of the required deflection. It seems that the right wing moves down acceptably, but does not move up to the correct angle of deflection. >Colin ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Colin, Before you start to redrill bellcranks I'd suggest you try the following. Start by getting the stick and bellcranks set to the neutral position and the cable tension adjusted. The stick neutral position is easy to locate. The neutral position on the bellcranks can best be found by having the "crossover" cable and the cable from the stick intersect at a 90 degree angle at the bellcrank. It's been a while but I think that's how it worked out. Look at the airplane or a picture and you'll see what I'm talking about. Secure the stick in the neutral position. Now clamp the trail edge of the aileron to neutral and install/adjust the pushrod. Don't be surprised if the two pushrods require a different length. I installed the first pushrod and adjusted the second to the same length before installing only to find I had made some kind of error and the second push rod needed to be approx 3/8" longer. That won't be a problem if the system is adjusted properly. When checking deflection make sure when one aileron is max up that the other is max down at the same time (don't make independent checks) and that the midpoints are correct also. This should insure that you get the same roll rate / aileron feel in both directions. If you don't have a digital level try to borrow one for this process. It helps to turn a "forced march" into a "cake walk". After 20 hours of flight time I've found that what I thought was a heavy right wing does not exist. It turns out my KR is in perfect rig. It flys wings level at any airspeed with both ailerons at the neutral point and hands off the stick. It turns out I won't need any fixed trim tabs on any of my control surfaces. This is on a KR that was built using two bubble levels and the 48" ribs to set the wing center section and the outer wing panels built independently of each other using a "SmartLevel" to set the washout. I outlined the process I used to build the wing center section and outer wings in a newletter article many years back. Anyone with the CD can check it out. I believe there is also an e-mail in the archives that describes it also. If you can't find either of these and want to see the process I used I could e-mail you the article direct. I'm still convinced the process I used is the most simple and accurate way to go. If as they say , the proof is in the pudding, I don't see how anyone can dispute it. Larry Flesner
