Powder coating adds probably a little more than that. I design bridge consoles for ships and we have to run taps back through all the tapped holes and make sure none of the clearance holes are too tight.
I use Tool Black from Precision Brand Products in my machine shop for steel parts. It is a black oxide coating and adds only something like .0002 to the material. You can buy it from www.use-enco.com . You can also use gun blue from your local Wal Mart gun department. With either of these you still need to oil the part. They make more of a porus surface to hold the oil than a coating to prevent corrosion. I wrote a product review on the Tool Black that was in the March/April 2001 issue of The Home Shop Machinist that had some instructions. Contact me if you want an emailed copy. Mark Langford wrote: >Mark Youkey wrote: > >>I looked in "The Science and Engineering of Materials" and found that >>perhaps the best way is to zinc plate the steel. >> > > Hey, I have that book too! Guess I should have opened it. > >Actually, I'm looking for something I can do at home, but I may have to go >that way. I also considered powder painting it, which is supposed to be >only .002" thick, but last time I had something coated it looked more like a >.100", and had runs all over it. They make home-brew kits, so that might be >an idea. But plating is a distinct possibility, assuming they can handle >something 8 feet long. Waxing may just get me there too, as long as I >inpect it every time the wings are off, and it'll make it operate with less >friction. Call me optimistic on this one... > >Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL >N56ML "at" hiwaay.net >see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford > > > >_______________________________________________ >see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html >
