I just do horizontal single row panoramas, too, almost always handheld.
Also, like you, stand at one spot and rotate my body carefully. I use
about 50% overlap. Everything pretty much works out well, even when I
get adventurous and shoot a second row above the first one.
In Hugin, I add horizontal lines to sea horizons (or the tops of fences
if there's a line of fencing behind what I'm shooting) before running
any other automatic control point detection.
I've also found that progressing through the Hugin geometric
optimizations helps if I follow each by running Clean control points
after each one. Start with positions (incremental), then Positions
(y,p,4) and so on. If I'm feeling really aggressive, I'll keep doing the
"Everything without translation optimization > Clean control points >
repeat optimization"Â process until no points are removed after cleaning.
I just use ordinary lenses - 28-75mm zoom and a 500mm reflex. I don't
have anything in the fisheye range and don't see a need for one. I shoot
using a full-frame 60MPX camera and love lots of details, so the idea of
using a wide angle or fisheye to cram a wider field of view into the
frame just means (to me) I would lose details.
A friend of mine's response to me shooting panoramas has always been,
"Just get a wide angle lens already!" 😉
Happy panorama shooting!
On 5/21/25 20:37, Frédéric Da Vitoria wrote:
As I explained I always shoot handheld, with roughly 25% overlap and I
seldom get so weird results.
- if there are close and distant elements, I choose some point on the
floor and don't move from there, not even by one step (unless I want
to cheat and remove some undesirable close element)
- I just do horizontal panoramas (one row of photos only), which makes
it easier to stay in the same place.
--
David W. Jones
[email protected]
wandering the landscape of god
http://dancingtreefrog.com
My password is the last 8 digits of π.
--
A list of frequently asked questions is available at:
http://wiki.panotools.org/Hugin_FAQ
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