On 22/05/2025 12:22, Ninni Curinga wrote:
really thank you, i ll download as soon as possible and try to watch
your control points!! it's almost perfect, i can correct the land of
Sicily that is a little bit wrong with photoshop. it's very good and i
ll try to obtain the same results looking from your project and try to
understand how does it work.
Hugin's complexity is what allows you to assemble panoramas from
handheld pictures. In other words, if you don't want to travel with a
tripod, you'll have to spend hours in Hugin to fix your panoramas.
what lens do you use to shot 360* pano photos? do you use camera in
vertical or horizontal mode?
I never do 360° panoramas, partly because I look / show my panoramas as
part of all my pictures, most of which are not panoramas. 360° panoramas
need special software to be viewed correctly. Also, I seldom see a scene
where I'd like to have more than 180°, and I don't remember any case
where I wished for 360°. I guess if had been on the top of a mountain, I
would have a different opinion, but I have never been on the top of a
mountain. I don't have a reflex or a hybrid, because I don't want to
lose time switching lenses, I want to be able to take my camera and
shoot immediately, at 25mm or at 600mm, or anywhere in between. When I
shoot panoramas, of course, I use 25mm, unless I am aiming at something
like a mosaic panorama.
I essentially use Hugin to help me assemble pictures as wide as what a
fisheye would give me (or wider). But Hugin allows me to choose the
projection. The best projection depends on the scene, usually
rectilinear ou Panini for buildings, but natural scenes will look better
to me in equirectangular. And sometimes I end up using a more esoteric
projection. I also sometimes take a series of pictures using the same
framing, for example of a building partly hidden by a crowd of moving
people, and use Hugin to remove the people as much as possible.
How I hold my camera depends on the type of panorama I am doing. For
horizontal panoramas, I tend to use portrait orientation (unless I have
all the height I need in landscape orientation). But for rectangular
panoramas, I usually stay in landscape, because handling the camera is
much easier that way.
Il giorno giovedì 22 maggio 2025 alle 08:37:22 UTC+2 [email protected]
ha scritto:
I found the time to get a better result. I attached the result
(low-resolution version) and the pto file that generated it. It
took me quite a few hours to get this. One of the problems is that
there were quite large parallax errors, especially facing north.
Hugin tried to reconcle far points on the horizon and points on
the floor and the railing, which led to bad results. Compare the
distance from the railing to the horizon between pictures 0, 25,
26, 50 and pictures 70 and 71.
In order to improve things, I removed many points on the floor.
Now that I think of it, I should have done differently: in the
last row of photos (from the 52nd = DSC5802), I should have left
the bottom points and removed the points on the horizon. But I've
seen with this set of photos too long now, I'd rather do something
else🙂.
I also removed all points on the railing. I deleted all points on
close foliage as even a small breeze would have moved the leaves.
I removed all points which were too different according to Edit ->
Fine-tune all points. I added a few horizontal and vertical lines.
I kept points in the clouds: I hoped they weren't moving too fast
and there were so few points around the sea.
As I explained I always shoot handheld, with roughly 25% overlap
and I seldom get so weird results.
- if there are close and distant elements, I choose some point on
the floor and don't move from there, not even by one step (unless
I want to cheat and remove some undesirable close element)
- I just do horizontal panoramas (one row of photos only), which
makes it easier to stay in the same place.
On 17/05/2025 15:29, Ninni Curinga wrote:
thank you, i don't pretend you to work for free. if you like, we
can deal for some price. i d like to learn so next time i ll be
better. i ll also buy nodal rail and fisheye, unfortunally i have
14-24mm so expansive i would better like to use it instead of
buying a fisheye, but if you suggest me a fisheye that means it's
the right way to do!
source pictures here
https://e.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=kZo9vqZ5xpnsahXumpspsw5mOHh77GxnKzy
and this is my juzaphoto profile, just to have fun
https://www.juzaphoto.com/me.php?p=189460&l=en
<https://www.juzaphoto.com/me.php?p=189460&l=en>
Thank you so much
Nino
Il giorno sabato 17 maggio 2025 alle 12:21:12 UTC+2
[email protected] ha scritto:
Nino,
Maybe you could share the photos somewhere (Google Drive,
Dropbox, ...)
I may have the time in a few days to give it a try and at
least give you
some ideas on how to improve thigs next time.
On 17/05/2025 11:11, Ninni Curinga wrote:
> Tried to do with manual horizontal lines and ptgui
trial..nothing
> good, unfortunally source pictures are so bad. :-( i will
not delete
> them, waiting for some better automatized software or A.I.
helping me
> on that. in the meanwhile, if someone of you would like to
try, we can
> deal price for a lesson.
> Thank you so much for support, and congratulations to you
all who
> really create wonderful 360* pano pics.
> have a great day, send you hugs!
> Nino
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